3D printers recommendations for the hobbyist?

[awp_101]

I did a search but didn’t see anything within the past couple of years.

What is a good 3D printer for the hobbyist looking to make small parts like sights, maybe a mag carrier, doodads for grandkids, etc? Not looking for anything like a commercial set up unless it’s reasonably close in price to what I’ve already described.

Which brings me to:

What’s the going rate for a good home use 3D printer setup? Is a CAD/CAM type of program and knowledge of said program needed? My nephew has talked about getting a kit that gives you the bare bones and then you print the rest of it yourself but that sounds pretty sketchy to me. And I might have misunderstood the way he described it so there’s that...

Thanks!

[whomever]

"What is a good 3D printer for the hobbyist looking to make small parts like sights, maybe a mag carrier, doodads for grandkids, etc? Not looking for anything like a commercial set up unless it’s reasonably close in price to what I’ve already described."

Mine is a Prusa that was about $1K, assembled, as in pull it out of the box, plug it it, and print. There are cheaper ones that people seem happy enough with, down into the $300 range. It's no different than, say, that you can get 1911's that work from a few hundred to a few thousand dollars. More money can buy higher print temps (to print e.g. nylon), better print beds (a subject in itself), features like heated beds, etc.


"Is a CAD/CAM type of program and knowledge of said program needed?"

So, let's say you want to print something. The full path is:
1)Use a CAD program to define the shape. What you get is a file that describes the physical shape. The most common format is an stl file, e.g. 'MagCarrier.stl'.
2)You put that in a program that (for 3D printing) is called a 'slicer'. It looks at the shape and converts it to detailed instructions for your printer to print out the shape. This is where you control how thick the layers are, what temperatures to heat the plastic to, etc. The output of this is a gcode file, e.g. 'MagCarrier.gcode'.
3)You put that file into your printer and (hopefully!) out comes a printed object.

So, at one end of the spectrum, my printer came with some canned gcode files. I plugged it in and had it print a cute little frog. That is limited, of course, to objects that have been 'sliced' for your particular printer/filament type/nozzle diameter/etc, so it's not much use outside of a demo.

At one level up, you can go to thingiverse.com (or many other places) and get the .stl files pre done for a zillion objects, and drop them through your slicer and print them. This can require some tinkering ... do you need a brim? Supports? Do the default print settings work for this object, etc, etc. And, of course, you are limited to shapes other people have designed.

The next level up is to define your own shapes, or CAD. There are a zillion of these. There are powerful commercial products ... that are cost prohibitive.

I use a free one called OpenSCAD. It is a lot like a programming language, or markup language, as opposed to WYSIWYG. Maybe like HTML vs Word. Some people dislike that. I'm a computer nerd, so I much prefer it.

In the WYSIWYG world, Fusion360 is fairly popular . The vendor gives free licenses to hobbyists.

There are others. All of these have a learning curve.

"My nephew has talked about getting a kit that gives you the bare bones and then you print the rest of it yourself but that sounds pretty sketchy to me. And I might have misunderstood the way he described it so there’s that..."

That's pretty common, and perfectly reasonable if you are an electrical hobbyist type. It can save money - I think Prusa sells a kit for $700 or so, for example. There are people who strongly advocate for that, reasoning that by the time you get it to work you will understand how to fix it yourself. In the same vein, I suppose you can argue you are better off buying AR parts and building a rifle from components. FWIW, I'm happy to build ARs from parts, including building the parts from scratch, but I didn't want to mess around and just bought a turnkey printer. Maybe next time I'll build the printer, who knows. My first AR was a 6920, so there is precedent :-). I think the bottom line is to decide whether you want to be using the printer to make whatever, or having building the printer to be the project in itself.

[awp_101]

Thanks, that gives me some starting points if/when I start getting serious about digging deeper.

[vaspence]

We bought my 11yo a Flashforge Adventure 3 (https://www.amazon.com/FlashForge-Adventurer-Lite-FDM-Printer/dp/B07TYRGWSQ/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1D9836BSCJJDG&dchild=1&keywords=flashforge+adventurer+3&qid=1590170754&sprefix=flashforge+%2Caps%2C147&sr=8-3)a few months ago for less than $400. He had a learning curve in the beginning with item collapses and wonky filament but he overcame those quickly.

He’s printed a variety of items and the printer hasn’t had any issues that I’m aware of. I’ve also been impressed with the abundance of files that exist for random things (pulleys, tarp ticks, ear savers, etc.) and he’s been able to scale those to different sizes with ease.

FWIW I’m very out of my lane so what is impressive to me is probably not to others. But hey, he printed his brother a butterfly knife last night and what’s not to like about that!

54421

[awp_101]

OK, now that's cool!:cool:

[Balisong]

We bought my 11yo a Flashforge Adventure 3 a few months ago for less than $400. He had a learning curve in the beginning with item collapses and wonky filament but he overcame those quickly.

He’s printed a variety of items and the printer hasn’t had any issues that I’m aware of. I’ve also been impressed with the abundance of files that exist for random things (pulleys, tarp ticks, ear savers, etc.) and he’s been able to scale those to different sizes with ease.

FWIW I’m very out of my lane so what is impressive to me is probably not to others. But hey, he printed his brother a butterfly knife last night and what’s not to like about that!

54421

That looks a hell of a lot like something that someone with my username would like!

[EricM]

Great info from whomever, saved me a lot of typing. I second the Fusion360 (https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/overview) recommendation for parametric 3D CAD software, here (https://www.autodesk.com/campaigns/fusion-360-for-hobbyists) is a link for the personal use license. Might check out Blender (https://www.blender.org/) if character modeling is more your thing. Even if you're tech savvy there can be quite a learning curve to this stuff, but there are lots of good video tutorials and such out there.

For printers, Prusa is the first name that came to mind in the sub-$1000 range. Creality seems to be really popular lately on the lower end. Here (https://all3dp.com/1/best-cheap-budget-3d-printer-affordable-under-500-1000/) is a list of some options at various price points. Some things to consider as you look through specs and reviews: build volume (how big of an object you can make), type of build platform (more on that below), how the bed is leveled (manual vs. automatic, and single-point vs. mesh on the latter), and wifi/ethernet connectivity (send jobs directly to your printer from your computer rather than shuffling them on a USB flash drive or SD card).

If there's one thing I would emphasize to someone new to 3D printing, it is that getting the first layer to adhere well to the build plate is critically important. It is one of the most common causes of frustration and failed prints; the part must stick securely to the build plate during the print but you also need to be able to get it off afterwards. Nothing else matters if those two requirements are not met. This is surprisingly complex with many variables: machine setup (bed flatness and leveling, height calibration), software configuration (extrusion temperature and speed, aids like rafts or brims), the surface you're printing on, and the material you are printing. People have tried printing on every surface imaginable, and different materials stick best to different build surfaces (beware, some stick so well they are impossible to separate!). Some materials are particularly prone to warping as the melted plastic cools after extrusion, which can be very hard to work with. I say all this because when you're getting started, I highly recommend hitting the easy button, which in my experience is printing PLA on a heated magnetic build plate of PEI powder-coated spring steel. The magnetic build plate is easy to swap out, PLA sticks great to PEI, and when the print is done you just remove the plate and print together, then gently flex the plate to pop off the print. Many printers can be retrofit with this kind of setup if they didn't come with it. I use the BuildTak FlexPlate (https://www.matterhackers.com/store/c/BuildTakFlexPlate) magnetic base with a LayerLock build plate (https://www.matterhackers.com/store/c/powder-coated-pei-build-plate).

Two inexpensive filaments I have had good success with are eSUN's PLA PRO (PLA+) for general-purpose printing (I get it from INTSERVO on Amazon) and SainSmart's TPU when I need something flexible (SainSmart Official on Amazon). I use original blue 3M painters tape on an unheated build plate for the TPU, as it sticks TOO well to PEI. Be aware that filament comes in two diameters, 1.75mm and 2.85mm (commonly called 3mm), so be sure to buy the correct one for your printer. Filament prints best when dry, some types are more sensitive than others but it's a good idea to store it in a sealed bag with dessicant packets or a sealed box with a larger bag of silica gel.

A few good places to shop include MatterHackers (https://www.matterhackers.com), 3D Universe (https://shop3duniverse.com/), and PrintedSolid (https://www.printedsolid.com/).

[Joshmill]

I have a Prusa i3 Mk2 (https://www.amazon.com/REPRAPGURU-Black-DIY-Prusa-Printer/dp/B01BO52LBA/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=Prusa+i3+Mk2&qid=1590170836&sr=8-2) and I really like it. Some friends have $200-300 printers and seem to have pretty good results.

[boing]

Prusa is well regarded for plug-and-play, but the wait times for delivery can be months. The website shows 3-4 weeks, but I’m not sure that’s reliable, since they’ve been affected by COVID-19, and have been making PPE as well.

The Creality Ender 3 (https://www.amazon.com/Official-Creality-3D-Removable-220x220x250MM/dp/B07K3SZBHJ/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2L63GXLJDXLPY&dchild=1&keywords=creality+ender+3&qid=1590170981&sprefix=Creality%2Caps%2C188&sr=8-4) (and 3 Pro) are the go-to for lower end machines. Much less expensive, but may need some tinkering to dial in. There’s an extensive user community for both brands, and no shortage of support from real world users on identifying and fixing problems or quirks.

I have an Ender 5 Pro (https://www.amazon.com/Official-Creality-Upgraded-Extruder-Capricorn/dp/B081SPJ2VX/ref=sr_1_2?crid=LYDX08UPI5TC&dchild=1&keywords=ender+5+pro&qid=1590170925&sprefix=Ended+5%2Caps%2C164&sr=8-2), which is a little bigger and has some quality of life upgrades, like being quieter. It produced fantastic prints right out of the box.

Mother’s Day gift:
http://i.imgur.com/N4FLxHm.mp4

As for sights and mag carriers, you should “moderate your expectations” :). The standard plastic is PLA, which is easy to work with, but at the low end for strength. It tends towards brittle, and fatigues easily so parts that need to flex will probably not last long. And being made from discrete horizontal layers, there’s an inherent weakness along those planes. I wouldn’t rely on a belt clip or loop for serious purposes.

Printing stronger materials become more complicated. ABS requires putting the printer in an enclosure to retain the heat and prevent the part from warping from cooling too rapidly. Printing temperatures tend to be higher, too, so some parts of the machine may need to be upgraded to handle the higher end materials.

[awp_101]

As for sights and mag carriers, you should “moderate your expectations” :).
Yeah, that was more of a "what would I actually do with this thing?" train of thought. The most reasonable thing I can think of would be something like a Ruger MK series or Single Six that uses a screw on front sight base or the centerfire revolvers that use a pinned in blade. Print the sight with different heights to dial in POA/POI then have the real thing machined.

[awp_101]

If anyone is still following this, Amazon's Deal of the Day is 20% off Creality 3D printers and accessories (https://www.amazon.com/deal/6e8e532d?showVariations=true&smid=A26BI19QRFB6PB&pf_rd_r=2RB2A8H23PBQCRZP2KMM&pf_rd_p=b2b4c1d6-bd29-4855-b0da-bbf612d374e2)

[boing]

I’m tempted to add an Ender 3 so I can be iterating small parts while long jobs run on my 5 Pro. It would need an upgrade to a metal extruder and a silent board, but that’s not cost prohibitive.

[LOKNLOD]

*rolls a 20 for necromancy*

It’s been a while but this looks the most recentish thread.

If a feller wanted to get into the world of 3D printing some doodads and prototypes, what’s the current go to? Seems like there is a ton of units out there but it’s not a realm with name brand recognition or anything to really guide me…

What’s the Glock 19 of home hobby 3D printing circa early 2023?

[whomever]

*rolls a 20 for necromancy*

It’s been a while but this looks the most recentish thread.

If a feller wanted to get into the world of 3D printing some doodads and prototypes, what’s the current go to? Seems like there is a ton of units out there but it’s not a realm with name brand recognition or anything to really guide me…

What’s the Glock 19 of home hobby 3D printing circa early 2023?

I surely am not an expert. I've had a Prusa for a few years, but I print stuff on it; I'm not doing comparisons. There are youtube channels that do that.

Anyway, mine is a MK3. Current price is $1100 assembled, cheaper if you do the assembly. Made in the Czech republic. There is a smaller one for half that.

I got this because I wanted to make parts, not troubleshoot a printer, and Prusa's have the reputation for just working. Part of my decision was I know a commercial place with a farm of a dozen Prusas.

The most common name I hear for cheap ones is Creality Ender. I believe made in China. On amazon I see prices of $200-$300; I dunno the different models.

A couple of things to look at that might not be obvious:
-bed material. Your prints have to A)stick to the bed well enough you can print them and B)still come loose when the print is done. Given the range of possible materials, that's a harder job than you might imagine. The Prusa has a PEI bed, which is pretty hassle free with a wide range of materials. The creality has a 'carborundum glass' bed. I dunno about the carborundum part; regular glass is considered a step down from PEI.

-heated bed. The Prusa's is; I didn't see that the Creality did (but I didn't do a deep dive). This helps with distortion and adhesion.

-what materials you want to print - everyone will print, say, PLA. Not all will have a hot end that will get hot enough to print nylon, for example.

I think the bottom line is probably that there is nothing wrong with the cheaper ones if you just want to try 3D printing in general, kicking the tires so to speak. OTOH, if you start trying to use different materials, harder prints, etc, then you won't regret the extra $$ for a Prusa. I think it's a 'no wrong answer' thing.

But - I'm not in the business of comparing different printers; believe the people who are, not me :-)

[5pins]

*rolls a 20 for necromancy*

It’s been a while but this looks the most recentish thread.

If a feller wanted to get into the world of 3D printing some doodads and prototypes, what’s the current go to? Seems like there is a ton of units out there but it’s not a realm with name brand recognition or anything to really guide me…

What’s the Glock 19 of home hobby 3D printing circa early 2023?

It would probably be an Ender 3 of some form. I have the basic Ender 3 and have been having a lot of fun with it.

https://www.creality.com/products/ender-3-3d-printer

[mtnbkr]

It would probably be an Ender 3 of some form. I have the basic Ender 3 and have been having a lot of fun with it.

https://www.creality.com/products/ender-3-3d-printer

I've got an Ender 3d Pro and have enjoyed it. I've made any complex prints, but I use it to print a lot of small stuff for various uses.

I got mine on sale with a "new customer" coupon at Microcenter for $100. They run that promotion pretty often, but they're only available at that price as an in-store purchase.

Chris

[frank]

Prusa

This is the correct answer. The MK3S+ ($1099) or Mini ($429) just work. No fooling about or fixing stuff - they have all of the correct parts and ease of use, along with the best software for printing (Prusa Slicer, a fork of Cura).

If you want to just print stuff and not troubleshoot issues, get one of those, and stick with the Prusament filament.

[LOKNLOD]

Considering the names now are some of the same names from when the thread was new in 2020… that’s a good sign.

[5pins]

There is a deeper learning curve with the Ender 3 compared with higher priced printers, so I guess it depends on how much you want to tinker and what your frustration level is.

This girl has the best printer reviews on YouTube.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A-lxpSLPd7w&list=PLxGIelsDS8bBATFCEgictVrHYvYCSEGmU& index=17

[Wise_A]

I would suggest the Prusa Mini if you can swing the price and are really interested in just small stuff. My Anycubic Vyper is quite a bit bigger and I find it constraining for some practical projects. Otherwise, the Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro is decently-equipped (automatic bed-levelling is quite handy). That's what I'd call the G19 at the moment. And speaking of the Vyper, I really like it, and it was great getting started. Honestly I probably shouldn't bother replacing or upgrading at all. But the problem for me recommending it is that it exists in this weird place where it's too pricey for a bedslinger to try and upgrade, but it's also not as capable as a more expensive printer.

For more money, Prusa MK3S+ goes for $800. If your budget is bigger than that, get something cheap to learn the ropes and then build a real enthusiast rig like a Voron or a RatRig. Myself, I am thinking very hard about getting a Tronxy and then fixing all the parts on it that are shit.

I would not recommend an Ender. I think it's expensive for what you get. It's a good idea if you want to buy a printer to wrench on and tinker with (huge community, lots of guides, lots of parts and help available), but it's a very, very basic printer with spotty QC.

[Wise_A]

Hey, I thought I would resurrect and update. Some stuff has come out.

TL;DR: I think Prusa is pretty much dead in the water and there are very few reasons to buy one. Their main printer, the i3 MK3S+ (https://www.prusa3d.com/category/original-prusa-i3-mk3s/) goes for $800 as a DIY kit, and $1100 assembled.

The Low End - $330 on pre-order, $400 eventually
Sovol SV06 Plus (https://sovol3d.com/products/sovol-sv06-plus?gclid=Cj0KCQiAgOefBhDgARIsAMhqXA6BZbH0DuSnhzb SfBO9GkecyRFz1h69JlQNBCEmwX6NxzRWwzckijMaAitkEALw_ wcB#popup)

150mm/s print speed, all-metal direct-drive extruder with planetary gear, automatic bed levelling, generous 300x300 build volume, dual z-axis, auto x-axis leveling, removable magnetic PEI build sheet, and a color touch-screen interface.

So it's a Prusa i3 M3+, but bigger, with a MUCH better interface and PEI bed sheet...for less than half the price of a Prusa Kit, and a fraction of the price of the fully-built machine.

I wish it had strain gauge instead of probe-type ABL, and I'd prefer a Bowden-type extruder, but I'm in the minority on both of those things. And I'd like a way to manually-adjust the bed, as on the Elegoo Neptune 3 printers, but that's a minor thing.

The High End - $700
Bambu Labs P1P (https://us.store.bambulab.com/products/p1p)

This is a CoreXY printer that goes for $100 less than the bedslinging Prusa. It's a stripped-down version of the company's $1100 X1, missing a full enclosure and auto-tuning LIDAR...but it's just as fast. Normal quality printing is done at 250mm/s, more than twice the speed of the Prusa, with up to 20,000mm/s acceleration. This is blisteringly fast--the sort of speeds you'd expect out of a $1k+ Voron or Ratrig, but in a ready-to-go out of the box machine that costs $300 less.

Downsides? Well, the LCD screen is tiny, although you can control it on your phone. A lot of the hardware is proprietary, so upgrades are mostly out (but what would you want to upgrade??). And since the control boards are all proprietary and closed-source, no running Klipper firmware with its input shaping.