A Different Kind of Enabling

[okie john]

J&G is selling the back half of S&W K-frame revolvers for $149. Just add the barrel and ejector rod of your choice and you've got yourself a new budget blaster.

https://www.jgsales.com/smith-wesson-10-revolver,-38-special,-no-barrel,-round-butt,-gss,-cai-mark,-used,-s-w.-p-104679.html

I do not need to go down this particular rabbit hole but that might not stop me.


Okie John

[03RN]

J&G is selling the back half of S&W K-frame revolvers for $149. Just add the barrel and ejector rod of your choice and you've got yourself a new budget blaster.

https://www.jgsales.com/smith-wesson-10-revolver,-38-special,-no-barrel,-round-butt,-gss,-cai-mark,-used,-s-w.-p-104679.html

I do not need to go down this particular rabbit hole but that might not stop me.


Okie John

Im really tempted to get 2. 1 for my sons 2nd birthday and 1 for my fanny pack.

[jandbj]

Im really tempted to get 2. 1 for my sons 2nd birthday and 1 for my fanny pack.

Or just fast forward to the eventual result... https://www.ganderoutdoors.com/used-smith-wesson-model-10-5-.38-special-with-cerakote-669658.html#q=used&srule=low-to-high&sz=90&utm_medium=affiliate&utm_source=FlexOffers.com&ranMID=38720&ranEAID=PPkX79%2Fc*b0&ranSiteID=PPkX79_c.b0-r7ni45fZP3_avZZn.3PDTA&start=15&cgid=shooting%2Fguns%2Fused-guns

[Totem Polar]

Hmmm. “Smython time” or more appropriately, “Smobra...”

[penates]

I have a 2.5 in Python barrel that I was going to dump, maybe I should reconsider.

[john c]

Note that these are round butt. That makes this especially interesting....

[penates]

I have a 2.5 in Python barrel that I was going to dump, maybe I should reconsider.

Just looked a M10 not M15, so the Python barrel goes.

[snow white]

Any good places to look for the required barrel and ejector rod?

[Chuck Whitlock]

Any good places to look for the required barrel and ejector rod?

https://www.gunpartscorp.com/gun-manufacturer/smith-wesson/revolvers-sw/10-7

[Radar Love]

For someone who only has access to basic tools and occasionally struggles when assembling Ikea furniture, is a barrel something I can safely install myself?

[snow white]

Maaaaan I want a 3" barrel. I'll have to hold out for one.

[snow white]

So I have one on the way. Plan is to get a 4" bull and cut it to 3 inches, then have a dovetail cut in to put xs big dot on.

[03RN]

So I have one on the way. Plan is to get a 4" bull and cut it to 3 inches, then have a dovetail cut in to put xs big dot on.

Thats a good idea. I just got a 2"er

[snow white]

So all I will need is the 4 inch barrel (that will be cut to 3) and the proper extractor rod correct? I'm not overly familiar with doing revolver modifications.

[Wayne Dobbs]

So all I will need is the 4 inch barrel (that will be cut to 3) and the proper extractor rod correct? I'm not overly familiar with doing revolver modifications.

You'd be better off with a gunsmith's services. Revolvers aren't Glocks...

[Lex Luthier]

You'd be better off with a gunsmith's services. Revolvers aren't Glocks...

What Wayne said. These are from the crush-fit barrel era, and require a bit more knowledge than the pinned-barrel types. It's probably best to think of it as the basis for a custom revolver rather than as a cheap project.

[snow white]

You'd be better off with a gunsmith's services. Revolvers aren't Glocks...

I have a gunsmith that will be doing the work. I dont intend on doing it myself.

[snow white]

What Wayne said. These are from the crush-fit barrel era, and require a bit more knowledge than the pinned-barrel types. It's probably best to think of it as the basis for a custom revolver rather than as a cheap project.
What barrels should I look into buying? Are there spsific mod 10 barrels that will work with these? Excuse my ignorance I just want to make shure I'm buying the correct components.

[Nightvisionary]

For someone who only has access to basic tools and occasionally struggles when assembling Ikea furniture, is a barrel something I can safely install myself?

No. While it sounds like a cool project I would be out just under $300 with the frame, used barrel, FFL and shipping. Then I would need to find a qualified gunsmith to install the barrel or purchase the appropriate tools and take a big chance. There is no guarantee that the frame won't be warped due to an improper barrel removal so there is that as well. I just can't justify it when I passed on a excellent condition 1972 S&W Model 19 with original box just last week for $499

[03RN]

Numerichs had 2 barrels. One with a new one with 1/10" front sight and a used one with 1/8". I got the used one.

[oregon45]

Installing a barrel on a S&W revolver generally can be done without a lathe, but by the time you buy (or build) the proper tools and fixtures you will have spent more than a good gunsmith would charge to do it for you. And if the barrel does need to be altered to fit, (for instance, if it is too long for the cylinder to close), then you will need a lathe, tooling, and the knowledge of how to use it.

[jandbj]

https://www.gunbroker.com/item/869262768

https://www.gunbroker.com/item/868449073

Maybe get one cylinder chambered for 9mm in moon clips... (the joys of enabling)

[Malamute]

Installing a barrel on a S&W revolver generally can be done without a lathe, but by the time you buy (or build) the proper tools and fixtures you will have spent more than a good gunsmith would charge to do it for you. And if the barrel does need to be altered to fit, (for instance, if it is too long for the cylinder to close), then you will need a lathe, tooling, and the knowledge of how to use it.

I rebarreled an M 10 with a 3" barrel, i hand filed and stoned the rear of the barrel until it fit and had an even gap of acceptable size. Its slow and tedious, but not difficult. I had a local gunsmith with a forcing cone reamer redo the forcing cone after fitting the barrel, it was very reasonable.

I made barrel blocks from hardwood flooring scraps, and made a barrel wrench from angle iron and wood blocks. Clamped the frame vertically in the vise, torqued in the barrel to index as close as I could tell by eye and fitted the gap. It needs a little fine tuning, but hits within about 1 1/2" windage wise at about 20 yards I believe. The replacement barrel hand torqued to exactly the same point as the original barrel, so i wasnt concerned about whether it would index close to OK and have adequate torque. Its not always that simple, but several Ive done have been fairly simple.

[03RN]

Got it today. Needs a lot of work busting rust but looks promising.

Numrics still haven't shipped the barrel but im not sure if they're open yet

I plan on trimming the hammer, cleaning out the internals. Its old enough im not sure i need to stone anything. I also might trim the trigger guard a little.

The wood grips are pretty warn which is fine. I might pick up a bk grip adaptor or just use a spare pachymer compact pro on it.

I plan on giving this to my son for his second birthday in july but using it as my fanny pack gun untill he's ready to carry it. That way he'll get a gun with a lot of memories of me and him trail running with it.

Im on the fence about refinishing it.

[serialsolver]

Pistolsmithing by George C Nonte Jr is a good book on old school methods. eBay has several books listed.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[03RN]

55326
55327

[Stephanie B]

Numrics still haven't shipped the barrel but im not sure if they're open yet.

Their website says that they are currently shipping orders placed during the week of March 23rd.

[03RN]

Their website says that they are currently shipping orders placed during the week of March 23rd.

Yup, i looked right after i posted.

The trigger was pretty ok as i got it. Today i disassembled it and cleaned the accumulated gunk off everything. I also stoned the sides/bottom of all the moving parts.

The trigger guard is already missing a lot of bluing so it wont be a big deal when i Jordanize it.

Im not sure if i want to cut the spur completely off or leave a nub.

[Stephanie B]

Yup, i looked right after i posted.

The trigger was pretty ok as i got it. Today i disassembled it and cleaned the accumulated gunk off everything. I also stoned the sides/bottom of all the moving parts.

The trigger guard is already missing a lot of bluing so it wont be a big deal when i Jordanize it.

I’m not sure if i want to cut the spur completely off or leave a nub.

The Model 19 I acquired has a narrow and smoOth/ rounded trigger. I hate that. I ordered one like I have in my 65s. So that’s how I know their shipping delays.

[03RN]

Bobbed the hammer and narrowed the trigger guard today.

I did reblue the hammer but dont think im going to refinish anything else.

[03RN]

The barrel hand tightens to 9 oclock. There is a big gap to the cylinder:confused:

[Jim Watson]

You can get hand tools to set back the shoulder and trim the shank. I don't know what they cost, though.
If you did seven years apprenticeship with a Ferlach gunmaker, you could do it with a file.

[Malamute]

The barrel hand tightens to 9 oclock. There is a big gap to the cylinder:confused:

How big of a gap?

I dont recall exactly, but it seems like mostly they hand torque to about 9-10:00 when right. They then torque up OK with tools with the fine threads they have.

The gap should be somewhere close. You can check the tread pitch and calculate how much it will close up when torqued up to 12:00. It may in favt need to be turned back a thread to get an acceptable gap, no telling until you check actual gap and do the math, ot go ahead and torque it and see where it ends up.

If the gap is huge,...like 1/10", that barrel may have been used with a 357 cylinder. Its still likely usable, but would need to be set back a couple-3 threads,...dang on a 2", thats a bit.

Is the end shake good? Remember to get that set before doing any changes to the barrel cylinder gap.