New Reloader, Couple .223 Questions

[spence]

So... I bought an RCBS Rockchuck Supreme when I was deployed. In 2007. It sat in a box all these years. I had a stash of .308 and .223 bullets, along with primers and powder. Got rid of the AR I had in 2009, finally shunked the .224 bullets and No 41 primers. When i started back in the gun thing a year and a half ago, I sold off the bulk of the .308 bullets, primers, and probably 2/3 the powder. Held onto 500 165 gr Interlock bullets, a thousand large rifle primers, and several pounds of Varget.

Fast forward, the pandemic idiocy is what finally convinced me to bust out the stuff and actually start sorting this whole reloading thing out. I now have an AR and a CZ527 Varmint in .223, figured loading for the bolt gun is a good place to start since I'm meticulous and anal retentive, and it's a good way to sort out what works and what doesn't, and what other stuff I might need (like a shell holder for the case trimmer, I don't know how I don't have one of those).

I'm reloading Fiocchi brass, starting with 55 gr VMax bullets. Rifle does well with Fiocchi factory 55 gr polymer tip, and even their 55 gr FMJ ammo. I have Hornady, Speer, and Sierra manuals, as well as the info that came in the Lee die set. Absolutely none of them give Varget as being a compressed load. I loaded up a few with 25, 25.5, and 26 gr powder. Accuracy improved greatly with the higher powder charges, velocity still low compared to factory (about 3050 vs 3315).

At this point, my knowledge on the subject suggests decreasing increments on powder charges to .2. I loaded up some more at 26.0, and was going to load 26.2 and 26.4, however at 26.2, the charge comes about midway up the neck of the case. The Hornady manual states max charge with 55 gr over Varget at 26.4, the Speer and Sierra manuals say 26.9 and 27.0. So, am I overloading to go to the max charge at 26.4? I need to get back out and shoot what I've got loaded, but need weather, etc, to cooperate.

Thanks in advance. Hopefully that all makes sense.

Also, how imperative is it to crimp for use in an AR? I do not believe I have a die that'll crimp at the moment.

[Duelist]

I haven’t loaded a ton of .223/5.56, just enough to proof of concept that I can, but Varget is a very good powder for me in it, and IIRC the last time I loaded some with it, there was a spot on the ladder where the powder started being compressed. It was fine in my AR, though.

My notes and manuals are in the garage at the moment, and I’m in the recliner with a sleeping fur child snoring on my lap, or I’d check what loads they were. 50 or 55 grain bullets, though. So right in line with what you’re doing.

[spence]

I haven’t loaded a ton of .223/5.56, just enough to proof of concept that I can, but Varget is a very good powder for me in it, and IIRC the last time I loaded some with it, there was a spot on the ladder where the powder started being compressed. It was fine in my AR, though.

My notes and manuals are in the garage at the moment, and I’m in the recliner with a sleeping fur child snoring on my lap, or I’d check what loads they were. 50 or 55 grain bullets, though. So right in line with what you’re doing.

I'd sure appreciate knowing what kind of charge you were loading to start getting a compressed load.

[Duelist]

I'd sure appreciate knowing what kind of charge you were loading to start getting a compressed load.

Notes don’t say what load started compressing, but do indicate that I followed the Hodgdon data and loaded all the way up to 27.5c with a 55gr FMJBT. So Hodgdon, at least, acknowledges that it’s not out of line to load it with compression at the upper levels.

Apparently, I wasn’t crimping, either.

[Tokarev]

Check the Hodgdon website. It shows compressed loads across the board with lighter bullets.

Personally I'd use something like H322 or H335 with the 55 grain and save the Varget for 75/77 grain stuff.


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[Wise_A]

I have gone up to 26.4 grains with generic 55-grain FMJ. If I remember correctly, velocities were around 3400 fps out of a 26" 1:12-twist barrel. Loads were very compressed, even with very careful pours. Accuracy was okay, as was 27.3 grains under a 40-grain V-Max, but velocities never settled down. The same gear produces excellent results in 6.5CM.

I discarded Hodgdon's 27-under-55-grain data, as it didn't agree with other sources, and it's referencing a flat-based bullet, which is not what I had. In any case, my velocities starting getting more erratic past 26.4, which was counter to what I wanted, so I called it quits. I'll reiterate that it's a long-ish barrel and a slow twist that shoots a good bit faster than book data, so it may or may not be applicable to your situation.

Agree w/ Tokarev--faster powders are the ticket. When the ranges re-open, I'll be experimenting with Benchmark under 60-grain Sierra TMKs out of the 1:12, which produced much improved groups but still not-great SDs with the 55-grain bulk fodder (I sorted that stuff by weight, as well). I'll have to grab some H335 to use my supply of 40-grain V-Max's with. They grouped great, just the powder was unhappy. Why I care inside of 200 yards, I have no idea, it just irks me.

[mmc45414]

Those sticks of Varget are going to leave a lot of air space (H335 is more like filling a case with sugar). I would say if you can get the bullet started you are probably just fine.

[SecondsCount]

I have gone up to 26.4 grains with generic 55-grain FMJ. If I remember correctly, velocities were around 3400 fps out of a 26" 1:12-twist barrel. Loads were very compressed, even with very careful pours. Accuracy was okay, as was 27.3 grains under a 40-grain V-Max, but velocities never settled down. The same gear produces excellent results in 6.5CM.

I discarded Hodgdon's 27-under-55-grain data, as it didn't agree with other sources, and it's referencing a flat-based bullet, which is not what I had. In any case, my velocities starting getting more erratic past 26.4, which was counter to what I wanted, so I called it quits. I'll reiterate that it's a long-ish barrel and a slow twist that shoots a good bit faster than book data, so it may or may not be applicable to your situation.

Agree w/ Tokarev--faster powders are the ticket. When the ranges re-open, I'll be experimenting with Benchmark under 60-grain Sierra TMKs out of the 1:12, which produced much improved groups but still not-great SDs with the 55-grain bulk fodder (I sorted that stuff by weight, as well). I'll have to grab some H335 to use my supply of 40-grain V-Max's with. They grouped great, just the powder was unhappy. Why I care inside of 200 yards, I have no idea, it just irks me.

While there are a ton of people who love Varget, I gave up on it years ago when shooting lighter bullets. H335, H4895, H322, and Vihtavuori N135 have worked well for me with bullets between 40-60 grain.

55 FMJ bullets are not going to give you any kind of performance, even weight sorted. If you want a good bullet at a decent price, try the Hornady 62 BTHP that Midsouth carries. A 1:12 twist may not like that heavy of a bullet, so try the 53 Vmax which has a high BC for it's class and can be pushed hard from a long barrel.

[ranger]

I just ordered 500 of the Hornady 62 BTHPs - my shooting partner has great luck with these. Hope they are my go to bullet in 1-9 twist bolt guns. I use a lot of TAC in heavy bullet 223.

[mmc45414]

Anybody else experiment with any of these?
https://www.evergladesammo.com/223-75gr-jhp-w-can-bullet.html
When they were available they were around half want a SMK costs.

They also have a 68g:
https://www.evergladesammo.com/bullets/rifle-bullets.html?caliber=297&grain_weight=208

[SecondsCount]

I haven't tried anything from Everglades. Are those prices per 100? I see that they discount with a higher quantity but I think you can get the SMK for about the same price.

[Tokarev]

Anybody else experiment with any of these?
https://www.evergladesammo.com/223-75gr-jhp-w-can-bullet.html
When they were available they were around half want a SMK costs.

They also have a 68g:
https://www.evergladesammo.com/bullets/rifle-bullets.html?caliber=297&grain_weight=208Never used the Everglades but these shoot pretty well.

https://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/item/001532279c250/22-caliber-point224-diameter-75-grain-boat-tail-hollow-point-with-cannelure-250-count

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[mmc45414]

I haven't tried anything from Everglades. Are those prices per 100? I see that they discount with a higher quantity but I think you can get the SMK for about the same price.
The one time I bought the 75g from Everglades I paid $85 (shipping included) for Qty500. When he sells out of things he takes the quantity pricing down until he gets more. When I have priced them in the past they have been in the ballpark of half whatever current pricing on SMKs was at the time.
ETA: It confused me a couple of times because the Everglades cost for Qty1k was in the ballpark of the Qty500 bulk pack of SMK, but I could be off on my SMK pricing.

We are just starting to experiment with the 75g 223 bullets, but my friends and I have maybe gone through 10k-20k of their 115g 9mm bullets.


Never used the Everglades but these shoot pretty well.
https://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/item/001532279c250/22-caliber-point224-diameter-75-grain-boat-tail-hollow-point-with-cannelure-250-count
Those also look nice.

[spence]

I'm kicking myself a bit now, I don't remember what all powders I had that I sold off a year and a half ago, but I do remember there being some more Varget, BLC2, H4895, and who knows what all. I kept three pounds of Varget.

However, after posting this thread, I got to digging on the web a bit, and a common theme has said H335 is often preferred. I stopped at the new gun store an hour north while working up there today, snagged two pounds of H335 and one more of Varget, 2000 CCI 450 primers, plus the last 300 55gr FMJBT they had. I figure I'll load for the AR eventually, but even at that the CZ shoots the Fiocchi 55 gr FMJ really well.

That also said, the rifle has the 25.6" barrel, which IMO, is too long for .223, but I simply could not find an example with the 24" when shopping last year.

This also raises a new question. I bought CCI 400 small rifle primers the other day, so that's what I loaded. Do I need to rework my loads if I switch?

[spence]

Notes don’t say what load started compressing, but do indicate that I followed the Hodgdon data and loaded all the way up to 27.5c with a 55gr FMJBT. So Hodgdon, at least, acknowledges that it’s not out of line to load it with compression at the upper levels.

Apparently, I wasn’t crimping, either.

Dang, yet another question you made me remember. How vital is crimping? I don't have a crimping die. I'm not worried in my bolt gun, but if I want to shoot anything out of my AR, I'd rather not have issues.

[Wise_A]

55 FMJ bullets are not going to give you any kind of performance, even weight sorted. If you want a good bullet at a decent price, try the Hornady 62 BTHP that Midsouth carries. A 1:12 twist may not like that heavy of a bullet, so try the 53 Vmax which has a high BC for it's class and can be pushed hard from a long barrel.

They grouped acceptably--.75" or so, on average, not bad for the price. I weight-sorted to reduce variables for velocity testing, and because I wanted to use the exact same methodology on the .223 (where I'm frustrated) as I do with the 6.5CM (where I'm super-satisfied). The 40-grain Hornady V-Max shoots around .25"-.3" from the same gun--and even did so at 200y, once--but I have a box of 60-grain Sierra TMKs waiting for when the range re-opens. I don't know why I bother, except to experiment.

Overall, the gun (and its chassis) are problematic for me. I bought them to try out rifles when my budget was smaller, but circumstances changed and I figured out that shooting Hornady 140-grain ELD-Ms isn't much more expensive. The gun itself owes me nothing ($300 special), so I'm trying to figure out something to do with the 700 short-action chassis that the 6.5CM can't. I've kicked around both re-barreling the cheap action or picking up a blueprinted replacement, and either staying with .223 or going over to .308, .300Blk, 30BR, .223AI, 6x45mm, or 6.5 Grendel.

Or I could just sell the chassis (which would only suck because the magazine for it was a gift), and move on to new, different mistakes.

[Wise_A]

Dang, yet another question you made me remember. How vital is crimping? I don't have a crimping die. I'm not worried in my bolt gun, but if I want to shoot anything out of my AR, I'd rather not have issues.

It depends on who you ask. It is both unnecessary, and unsafe to do without. It either increases accuracy and reduces runout, or ruins perfectly good ammo.

A Lee FCD is like $12, it doesn't take much time to do, and bullet setback sucks.


This also raises a new question. I bought CCI 400 small rifle primers the other day, so that's what I loaded. Do I need to rework my loads if I switch?

Yes, although to what extent depends on the load and the use. If I was running towards the upper end of my data, I would reduce the charge by 10% and work back up. If I were making itsy-bitsy bughole ammo, I would have to do a little bit of load development, but not the entire process, unless I did something drastic like switch from small to large primers or from regular to magnum.

If the charge was in the middle of the data, I didn't change sizes or types, and I wasn't terribly concerned with accuracy...well, I should at least chrono 5-10, but in truth, I'd probably just check for pressure signs and keep rolling. If I was rolling out ammo in big batches on a progressive, I would be more inclined to thoroughly test, just to avoid having 1000 rounds of trash.

[mmc45414]

a common theme has said H335 is often preferred.
One aspect of this is that it goes through a powder measure like sand through an hourglass.


I stopped at the new gun store an hour north while working up there today, snagged two pounds of H335
That would be like buying a winning lotto ticket right now, nice find!

[spence]

One aspect of this is that it goes through a powder measure like sand through an hourglass.


That would be like buying a winning lotto ticket right now, nice find!

I spent far more than I really wanted to, and would have bought more primers than I did since who knows when I'll be able to find more, but they were a little spendy, and it'll take a while to load 3k rounds.

[ranger]

If you want H335 - the "surplus" WC844 stills seems available.

I buy a lot of "blems" and "overruns" from the Nosler Pro Shop. I have good results with their 77 Custom Competition HPBTs across multiple 223/556. I wish I could find more of their 69 Custom Competition HPBTs for my 1-9s.

[SecondsCount]

If you want H335 - the "surplus" WC844 stills seems available.

I buy a lot of "blems" and "overruns" from the Nosler Pro Shop. I have good results with their 77 Custom Competition HPBTs across multiple 223/556. I wish I could find more of their 69 Custom Competition HPBTs for my 1-9s.

Shhhhh... don't let out the secret.

The 70 RDF shoots really well if you can seat them on the lands.

[ranger]

Shhhhh... don't let out the secret.

The 70 RDF shoots really well if you can seat them on the lands.

I have a bunch of 70RDFs and so far they just laugh at me as I try to find a load that works in a 1-9 and 1-8 twist 24 inch bolt. I am all ears!

PS - Nosler had a nice MIL Discount and fixed price shipping. I end up with all kinds of projectiles as I add 50 here and there to order when I get 77s, 123s, and 140s. I order Custom Competitions by the 1000 for 223, 6.5G and 6.5CM.

[mmc45414]

If you want H335 - the "surplus" WC844 stills seems available.

Shhhhh... don't let out the secret.
Too late!!! Is this another one of those H110/W296 same/same deals?

[ranger]

Too late!!! Is this another one of those H110/W296 same/same deals?

WC844 is listed as a "surplus" powder approximately equal to H335. They say use H335 data but subtract 10% and work up. I have 8 lbs but not opened yet. I plan on using for bulk 55FMJ "M193" clone loads. Should meter well through Dillon Powder Drop?

[SecondsCount]

I have a bunch of 70RDFs and so far they just laugh at me as I try to find a load that works in a 1-9 and 1-8 twist 24 inch bolt. I am all ears!

....

I have an older Remington 700 LTR in 223, 1:9 twist that shoots sub 1/2 MOA with the 70 RDF.
Recipe is 23.1 8208XBR (another secret ;) ), FC brass, Tula primer, 2.36" OAL. I put five in a row on a 5" plate at 545 yards so I know it is stable that far.

[mmc45414]

Should meter well through Dillon Powder Drop?
I would think so, but I recently have started migrating to Hornady powder measures, primarily based on my feelings and hunches, rather than science, as I mentioned here (https://pistol-forum.com/showthread.php?36137-Hornady-Measure-Extra-Spring&p=869796&viewfull=1#post869796).


I have an older Remington 700 LTR in 223, 1:9 twist that shoots sub 1/2 MOA with the 70 RDF.
I had one that I was disappointed in way back before I really understood the twist rate and bullet weight relationship. Federal GMM with the 69SMK was like sprinkling it with group reduction pixie dust.

[ranger]

I have an older Remington 700 LTR in 223, 1:9 twist that shoots sub 1/2 MOA with the 70 RDF.
Recipe is 23.1 8208XBR (another secret ;) ), FC brass, Tula primer, 2.36" OAL. I put five in a row on a 5" plate at 545 yards so I know it is stable that far.
I will try that recipe - thanks. I have a Rem 700 308 LTR FYI.

[Tokarev]

Too late!!! Is this another one of those H110/W296 same/same deals?Sort of although not really.

WC844 is a military powder that is often available as pulldown. This means it was loaded into ammo and then later recovered for whatever reason. Being that it isn't meant for the commercial reloader market, it can vary quite a bit in burn rate from lot to lot. I also wonder if this stuff is always US production.

Anyway, I have used several jugs of it over the years and have had good luck with it. But I'm using it for cost benefit and not to achieve max performance. In most cases something like 23.5 grains with a 55 or 62 FMJ gives me reliability and velocity that is close enough for blasting/training ammo.

844 is often available from Jeff Bartlett although he seems to be out of it at the moment. Jeff's website is gibrass.com

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[Borderland]

I just ordered 500 of the Hornady 62 BTHPs - my shooting partner has great luck with these. Hope they are my go to bullet in 1-9 twist bolt guns. I use a lot of TAC in heavy bullet 223.

I shoot those in my 1/9 bolt rifle. I think I get tighter groups but 55's work pretty well. I just shoot 55's in my Mini-14 because it doesn't seem to matter and they're cheaper. Not known for 1 MOA anyway. :D

My Howa 1500 HB can tell the difference tho. It's <1 MOA with the right load.

I had a good load with AR Comp but the supply seems to have gone away. I still have a few lbs. but running low. I found 8 lbs of Win 748 at a good price before the craziness started so rolling with that now. We'll see.

[SecondsCount]

I just ordered 500 of the Hornady 62 BTHPs - my shooting partner has great luck with these. Hope they are my go to bullet in 1-9 twist bolt guns. I use a lot of TAC in heavy bullet 223.

Here are some loads I've tried. SMP 735 is a surplus ball powder that is a touch faster than H335. I knew a guy that was getting out of the reloading biz and bought a whole bunch from him. Most of the time I put it in my Dillon because it flows so nice, and run a batch for the AR. Not super precision but it will surprise you.

52102

[spence]

While there are a ton of people who love Varget, I gave up on it years ago when shooting lighter bullets. H335, H4895, H322, and Vihtavuori N135 have worked well for me with bullets between 40-60 grain.

55 FMJ bullets are not going to give you any kind of performance, even weight sorted. If you want a good bullet at a decent price, try the Hornady 62 BTHP that Midsouth carries. A 1:12 twist may not like that heavy of a bullet, so try the 53 Vmax which has a high BC for it's class and can be pushed hard from a long barrel.

I picked up a few hundred 55 gr FMJ's because they were to be had and I will shoot some at some point just to see what they'll do, but at least out of my bolt rifle, I'll stick with VMax for now. Rifle's got the 25.6" barrel with 1:9.

As I mentioned the other day, I grabbed a couple pounds of H335. Went by the (most) local gun store to me today for some more bullets and some 9mm. Looked through the powder selection, and low and behold they had an 8 lb jug of H335, too. I cringed at the price until I divided it out. The price per lb was good enough that it followed me home, too.

However, looking at the manuals on it, I'm seeing max charges all over the charts. I've got copies of Sierra, Speer, and Hornady, plus checked the Hodge site, and it ranges from like 22.8 to 27.5. I haven't got a clue where to even start with that stuff.

[SecondsCount]

I go to the manufacturer's website, look at their recommendations, start right in the middle, and work up from there. After shooting, I read the primers to see if they are too warm.

[Wise_A]

I have a pretty fair amount of data available--Sierra and Hornady on my phone, Hodgdon/Alliant on the PC, Lyman #50 in the basement (and Lee #2, but I don't look at that often). Usually, I'm able to just pitch one source as an outlier and have the other three be close. I pay a little more attention to one or the other depending on the cartridge, but the main thing I look at in rifle is getting a similar bullet type.

In your case, Sierra is listing 24.9gr H335 with a 55-gr FMJBT as being hot, with no red asterisks at 24.4 (I love their app). Also, they give bolt gun-specific data.
Hornady tops out at 23.2 for all 55-grainers.
Hodgdon lists 22.7-22.8 for the Barnes TSX and Sinterfire bullets, but they go all the way up to 25.3 for the Speer Softpoint (a Spitzer).

If I were doing this for-real, I would actually get off my ass and check Lyman. But I would presume that Hornady's data is a little conservative and would probably just load 25 rounds, 5 each 22.9, 23.2 23.5, 23.8, 24.1, 24.4. Normally, I have no problem loading into Sierra's red-asterisk range, but I've never worked with the CZ mini-action, so I have no idea what it likes. Anyways, this puts your starting charges within spitting range of the uber-conservative Hodgdon data, while still getting well into Sierra's numbers.

OAL would be a couple hundreds off the lands, and I would mark each casing with the charge weight (Sharpie works great). Chronographing each load would tell me more. I would also compare the velocity to factory, and of course, examine the cases and primers after firing.

[spence]

I have a pretty fair amount of data available--Sierra and Hornady on my phone, Hodgdon/Alliant on the PC, Lyman #50 in the basement (and Lee #2, but I don't look at that often). Usually, I'm able to just pitch one source as an outlier and have the other three be close. I pay a little more attention to one or the other depending on the cartridge, but the main thing I look at in rifle is getting a similar bullet type.

In your case, Sierra is listing 24.9gr H335 with a 55-gr FMJBT as being hot, with no red asterisks at 24.4 (I love their app). Also, they give bolt gun-specific data.
Hornady tops out at 23.2 for all 55-grainers.
Hodgdon lists 22.7-22.8 for the Barnes TSX and Sinterfire bullets, but they go all the way up to 25.3 for the Speer Softpoint (a Spitzer).

If I were doing this for-real, I would actually get off my ass and check Lyman. But I would presume that Hornady's data is a little conservative and would probably just load 25 rounds, 5 each 22.9, 23.2 23.5, 23.8, 24.1, 24.4. Normally, I have no problem loading into Sierra's red-asterisk range, but I've never worked with the CZ mini-action, so I have no idea what it likes. Anyways, this puts your starting charges within spitting range of the uber-conservative Hodgdon data, while still getting well into Sierra's numbers.

OAL would be a couple hundreds off the lands, and I would mark each casing with the charge weight (Sharpie works great). Chronographing each load would tell me more. I would also compare the velocity to factory, and of course, examine the cases and primers after firing.

I'm right there with you. Sierra gives a max charge of 26.0, Lyman (looked it up here a bit ago) of 27.0, Sierra is 27.5, Hodgdon has as you mentioned above, and the number given on the bottle is that higher end 25.3, and then Hornady with a max of 23.2. The stated velocities with those numbers is all over the charts, too.

When I loaded the last set of Varget to go to the range, I was having issues with getting the chronograph to read, but it read all seven of them loaded at 26.0 and 26.2 gr, and I averaged 3010 and 3138, respectively (Fiocchi 55 gr Poly tip boat tail chronographed at 3315 a few days prior to that with similar weather conditions). Those numbers, at least on the higher charge, were pretty on point with the manuals. I have some more loaded there, but I'm learning on the fly where I have to measure powder at, like I can't do it at the kitchen table, it's too wobbly. So my ass has to stand at the rock solid island to measure powder. I'm hoping that the next set will be more consistent with velocities because of it, and then learning how my scale likes to play.

I'm going to get some loaded up and hopefully it's not freaking windy tomorrow so I can go shoot it.

[TOTS]

Quick question: are we annealing .223? Specifically wrt gas guns?

[ranger]

Quick question: are we annealing .223? Specifically wrt gas guns?

I have never annealed any 223 or 556. That is just me as an example.

[SecondsCount]

I have never annealed 223 for a semi auto but I have for a bolt action. It does improve consistency but it isn't worth it for my AR. A little crimp helps the semi-autos.

[TOTS]

Thanks. Asking as I have seen split necks from the first firing on some range pick ups. I don’t reload.233 but do load .308 for bolt guns. May get an AR and start loading .223 for that. How many loadings in general from .223 brass? Let’s say LC mil.

[SecondsCount]

Brass life depends on how hot you make your loads, and if you are shooting it in a bolt gun or AR. I tend to load for accuracy rather than velocity and get 3-4 firings. Most of the time I lose the brass, at matches or classes, before getting the full life out of them. That's the beauty of 223, people leave it at the range by the thousands and I have buckets full of it.

[ViniVidivici]

I load alot of H335 for 55, 62, and 75gr pills.

I just went off the Hodgdon website.

With a Hornady 55gr SP, 24.5 gr H335, at OAL of 2.200 was the sweet spot for my guns (ARs). Not a max load, no bad pressure signs, happy with it.

The yotes don't like it at all.
57993

[olstyn]

I'm learning on the fly where I have to measure powder at, like I can't do it at the kitchen table, it's too wobbly. So my ass has to stand at the rock solid island to measure powder. I'm hoping that the next set will be more consistent with velocities because of it, and then learning how my scale likes to play.

I'm going to get some loaded up and hopefully it's not freaking windy tomorrow so I can go shoot it.

Not .223/5.56-specific, but loading in the kitchen is setting yourself up to literally be eating lead later on. You want that process as far from your food as possible (preferably in a garage/basement/similar) in order to minimize contamination potential. (That goes double for the tumbling/media separation part of the process, especially if you're dry tumbling.)

[deputyG23]

Not .223/5.56-specific, but loading in the kitchen is setting yourself up to literally be eating lead later on. You want that process as far from your food as possible (preferably in a garage/basement/similar) in order to minimize contamination potential. (That goes double for the tumbling/media separation part of the process, especially if you're dry tumbling.)

What contamination potential is possible by seating primers, belling and charging cases, and seating bullets at the kitchen table as shown below? I use towels to cover the table and wipe up spilled items immediately.
I process once fired brass in the shed (sizing, recapping, dry vibratory cleaning).
Too hot now here in VA to work out there.
My brass prep is a spring/fall activity.58176

[olstyn]

What contamination potential is possible by seating primers, belling and charging cases, and seating bullets at the kitchen table as shown below? I use towels to cover the table and wipe up spilled items immediately.
I process once fired brass in the shed (sizing, recapping, dry vibratory cleaning).
Too hot now here in VA to work out there.
My brass prep is a spring/fall activity.58176

Sounds like you're mitigating the risk pretty well, but even post-tumbling, brass is covered with lead residue, so I don't let it anywhere near areas where food is or will be present. I certainly notice my fingers covered in black crud and tumbler dust after handling it, anyway. It's possible that I'm overly cautious, but ingesting lead is bad news.

[mmc45414]

Seems like wet tumbling would be a posative change also.

ETA: If it is too hot to load in the shed laying on the side they would probably be dry overnight.

[Mike C]

As someone who suffers from lead poisoning and its shitty effects I would highly recommend not doing any reloading anywhere in your house, especially where you cook and eat. Most especially if you have children in the home. I forget but young ones have a higher skin absorption rate through the skin than adults up to a certain age and they go hand to mouth quite often. Ingestion or inhalation is more of a factor, at least that is what I was lead to believe by the Doc and that makes sense. Either way it's best to avoid contamination inside the home. Just my .02.

D-Lead is your friend, I haven't read through the whole thread so maybe it was already mentioned but there is even a laundry soap for it. I soak my range clothes in it as a prewash, use it to decon my respirator, etc. You could use it as a wipe down for the area you're loading in if you must use the kitchen. If you use the soap to help decon I would certainly rinse and wipe clean thoroughly after de-leading the area.

[deputyG23]

Sounds like you're mitigating the risk pretty well, but even post-tumbling, brass is covered with lead residue, so I don't let it anywhere near areas where food is or will be present. I certainly notice my fingers covered in black crud and tumbler dust after handling it, anyway. It's possible that I'm overly cautious, but ingesting lead is bad news.

It might be a good idea to get a lead level test when I go for my physical in September.
I do wash with cold water after handling ammo or components.

[LittleLebowski]

deputyG23 do you have a single stage or progressive as well?

[deputyG23]

deputyG23 do you have a single stage or progressive as well?

I use an old single stage Pacific O-7 press.
I got a used Dillon 550 in my estate sale buy last fall with about ten conversion sets but haven’t even messed with it yet.
Need a strong mount and possibly a factory refurb to get it up to speed.

[deputyG23]

deputyG23 do you have a single stage or progressive as well?

I use an old single stage Pacific O-7 press mounted on my shed workbench.
I got a used Dillon 550 in my estate sale buy last fall with about ten conversion sets but haven’t even messed with it yet.
Need a strong mount and possibly a factory refurb to get it up to speed.
Will probably still do brass processing on the O-7 and perform the rest of the steps on the progressive once I get it up and running.