642 cylinder sticking

[rob_s]

I may have posted about this before but I can't find it now.

I have a 642. the cylinder is very hard to rotate when it's open, and I assume also when it's closed meaning it could be affecting trigger pull.

When I manually rotate it with my hand it frees up a bit, but goes back to sticking. I seem to recall that I've tried to lube some places to get it to spin more freely but to no long-term avail.

I rarely even touch the gun, let alone shoot it, but I thought it might make a good companion for anti-social distancing during a trip to town tomorrow, so I thought I'd try to un-stick it again.

if that doesn't work it'll be a Keltec P-32 in the pocket, as much as I'd rather have the .38

[Duelist]

Can you pull the trigger when the cylinder is closed? When is the last time the cylinder was pulled for cleaning of the operating parts?

[JRV]

My 19-9 was like this. It made the trigger pull unnecessarily heavy.

Remove the cylinder. If you have a good padded vice and decent tools, you can disassemble that entire assembly. I bet it’s chock full of crap. Clean, lube, reassemble carefully and correctly. Or have a smith do it.

[rob_s]

Can you pull the trigger when the cylinder is closed? When is the last time the cylinder was pulled for cleaning of the operating parts?

yes, the gun will fire, the trigger will pull, the hammer will drop, the cylinder will rotate. Just all much less freely than it should.

Cylinder has never been pulled to my knowledge. I bought this gun used probably 10 years ago, fired it a few times, stuck it in a holster and stuck it in the safe. I pull it out to carry from time to time and that's it.

[Lost River]

Do you know how to take the cylinder off the gun? rob_s

[rob_s]

Do you know how to take the cylinder off the gun? rob_s

no, but I'm sure there's some youtubes out there that'll help me break some shit! :cool:

[LtDave]

You might need to ream out the inside of the yoke where it fits in the cylinder. There used to be reamers specifically made to do this. It was a common thing to do to free up a cylinder that was binding on the yoke. Came in J, K & N sized variations. Brownells has one for K/L frames (currently out of stock). It definitely affects the trigger pull in a negative way.

Pacific Tool & Gauge has the K & N size tool. http://pacifictoolandgauge.com/1255-smith-wesson-tools

[Lost River]

no, but I'm sure there's some youtubes out there that'll help me break some shit! :cool:



Super simple Friend.

Give me a few minutes, I will snap a couple phone pics for you and the benefit of others who may come along later.

[Lost River]

This screw on the 442 (applies to other S&Ws as well)

I will skip the usual warnings, not get technical with names either..:rolleyes:


Remove the screw, open the cylinder, the whole cylinder assembly, crane, ejector rod, will slide forward and out of the gun.

https://i.imgur.com/eQ4ubJr.jpg

The L shaped piece will pull right off.

https://i.imgur.com/X1GeuLC.jpg

Clean and oil. put back on, the cylinder and make sure it spins freely, not binding, etc.

More.

[Lost River]

Clean all the gunk and carbon out of the hole in the frame shown here:

https://i.imgur.com/zcNzcIs.jpg

Great time to really scrub the barrel and cylinder since it is at the stage it is.

BTW, a pencil eraser will get the carbon off of cylinder flutes and other oddball places. A "fooking pencil" eraser..:cool: old trick.

Make sure you get under the extractor star with a tooth brush. There is no harm in giving it a shot of gun scrubber or other aerosol type cleaner if you use such things. I don't, but just make sure you totally let it dry and remove all the film afterwards. I lube my guns with motor oil, though thats a topic for another time. Works for belt feds, works for bolt guns, works for revolvers.

Now you just reassemble in reverse order.

Though when you get to the side plate screw that retains the cylinder, I would suggest using a single drop of either MEDIUM loc-tite or what I use, which is dollar store clear finger nail polish hardener. The FNPH does an excellent job and prevents the important ones from backing out.

https://i.imgur.com/KSepk4J.jpg

[Lost River]

I also use a single drop on the cylinder release latch screw threads. This is actually very important, as I have seen more than a few revolvers go down due to this coming loose at inopportune times.


https://i.imgur.com/GvsCpCQ.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/DEEySP0.jpg


That is it in a nutshell.

It is really pretty simple, but like anything, if you have never done it before, it looks more difficult than it really is.

Lots of little things, like good screwdrivers are important, but I am sure you know that. :cool:

After a basic cleaning, you should have a better idea reference diagnosing any potential issues.

[Duelist]

You may also discover that if you get excited about a pretty, shiny blue new/new to you S&W revolver that fills a specific spot in your collection and go shoot it in the boonies without your usual tool set and didn’t check your screws first that a backed out cylinder retention screw can induce all sorts of hilarity.

Or so I heard.

[Lex Luthier]

Thanks for that, Mackey!

I got all excited that I actually had an answer to an experienced person's question here, but then I got to overthinking it. :rolleyes: Didn't want to get it wrong.

Alternately, you can use a very light coating of a favored grease on the crane where it fits into the cylinder, rotate the cylinder a few times, then pull the crane out and wipe that area dry. Then reinsert the crane into the cylinder and reassemble the revolver. Just the little bit you smeared in there can last for a good long time.

While you have it out, check your other side plate screws for tightness. For me, this is something that gets checked during every cleaning session and when at the range.

[Lost River]

No Worries Friend!

We all contribute a little bit here and there. That is what makes this place, this place.:cool:

[BobM]

I have to do that to my 642 once in a while. I had assumed it was from firing dirty practice ammo.