14.5 Pinned and welded vs 16

[UNK]

I am looking at Bravo Co RECCE rifles and they have 14.5 pinned and welded vs 16”. Looking around at different websites it seems like its a current fad but it looks like the overall difference is very small like 3/4” aprox.
I dont remember this being discussed here but I dont really follow the Rifles thread too closely. Is there some advantage I am missing here?

[Darth_Uno]

I am looking at Bravo Co RECCE rifles and they have 14.5 pinned and welded vs 16”. Looking around at different websites it seems like its a current fad but it looks like the overall difference is very small like 3/4” aprox.
I dont remember this being discussed here but I dont really follow the Rifles thread too closely. Is there some advantage I am missing here?

It gets you a slightly lighter, handier barrel, if that’s a concern. You’re stuck with whatever’s pinned on the end though. I could probably argue academically that 14.5 is not nearly as appealing lately since you can just build a pistol with an even shorter, lighter barrel. But it’s also the sweet spot for me personally. I just like mine.

[StraitR]

If the NFA didn't exist, all my AR's would be 12.5". But, that's not current reality, so I stick with 16". Shorter would be cool, sure, but I've never been interested enough based on my needs to actually bother SBRing one.

I myself do not like being stuck with something I can't work on. A pinned and welded 14.5 is exactly that, something I can't work on. Barrels, rails, gas blocks, muzzle devices, all things you could not easily change yourself if you were so inclined. It also cost money to have it removed and reinstalled. I've changed rails and muzzle devices more times than I can count, so pinned and welded is a hard pass for me.

[Wake27]

Pinned is semi-permanently affixed to the barrel. Many gunsmiths will remove a pinned muzzle device for an extra fee if that's what you want, but its not always possible to save that MD. That's the downside of the 14.5 - its harder to swap MDs if you choose to do so, but far from impossible. The upside is that its about as short as you can get without going pistol/SBR. I think you lose maybe 100-200 FPS on average between 14.5 and 16, but the trade off is worth it to me because every bit of length helps. Consider that 14.5s typicallly come with 13-13.5" rails while 16s come with 15" rails. That two inches of extra handguard length felt massive to me, so I sold my only serious 16" upper.

[HeavyDuty]

I can easily tell the difference in balance between my 14.5” pinned carbine gas and 16” unpinned midlength gas carbines, both with pencil barrels, the same general MD and similar handguards. 16” carbine gas, not so much - but I don’t own any of those these days because I believe 16” carbine isn’t optimal.

This is a tangent but the handiest carbine I own by far is a 14.5” pinned midlength A1 with a round handguard and CAR stock. It’s like a toy, and runs great. Plus, it confuses people because it has the same general proportions as a 12.5” - the longer HG isn’t obvious at first. I must have lucked out with the gas port size.

[Cory]

Mine is pinned because I lived in a state where detachable muzzle was a no-no when I got it. If you're never changing the muzzle device might as well go 14.5" length.

If I was doing it today, I'd go 16" or go pistol. I wouldn't do a 14.5" pinned rifle. There are alot of other options that give you more choices. 14.5" pin rifles aren't bad, but they were a solution at a time when there was only one way to do it.

-Cory

[cornstalker]

My BCM Recce 14 handles so well that I don't see a reason not to go with a pinned 14.5" unless the carbine is eventually to be suppressed.

[UNK]

Pinned is semi-permanently affixed to the barrel. Many gunsmiths will remove a pinned muzzle device for an extra fee if that's what you want, but its not always possible to save that MD. That's the downside of the 14.5 - its harder to swap MDs if you choose to do so, but far from impossible. The upside is that its about as short as you can get without going pistol/SBR. I think you lose maybe 100-200 FPS on average between 14.5 and 16, but the trade off is worth it to me because every bit of length helps. Consider that 14.5s typicallly come with 13-13.5" rails while 16s come with 15" rails. That two inches of extra handguard length felt massive to me, so I sold my only serious 16" upper.

Im 6’3”. I wonder if the shorter rails would be a disadvantage.

[Wake27]

Im 6’3”. I wonder if the shorter rails would be a disadvantage.

Maybe, but I'm 6' and think my arms are slightly longer than average for my height (just because long sleeves are always short) so we may not be super different. Might also just be that I have or have had like six or seven dufferent 14.5s including my first AR.

[Wondering Beard]

Im 6’3”. I wonder if the shorter rails would be a disadvantage.

I'm the same height as you and I actually prefer the 13" length rails.

Now, I'm no real rifleman but, in handling, the 15" rails, for me, weigh the muzzle end of the rifle down (especially if you're going to add lights and other stuff), while the 13" do just fine and keep the carbine light, balanced and maneuverable up front.

If we're talking about going down to an M4 length (7" inches I think?) hand guard, things start feeling cramped but still perfectly useable.

13" rail on a 14.5" to 16" barrel is, for me, near perfect balance.

ETA: that rail length is great when we're talking about MLOk or KEYMOD rails, the older quad rails get heavy for that length and with those I prefer to keep the rail length to 10-11".

[UNK]

I'm the same height as you and I actually prefer the 13" length rails.

Now, I'm no real rifleman but, in handling, the 15" rails, for me, weigh the muzzle end of the rifle down (especially if you're going to add lights and other stuff), while the 13" do just fine and keep the carbine light, balanced and maneuverable up front.

If we're talking about going down to an M4 length (7" inches I think?) hand guard, things start feeling cramped but still perfectly useable.

13" rail on a 14.5" to 16" barrel is, for me, near perfect balance.

ETA: that rail length is great when we're talking about MLOk or KEYMOD rails, the older quad rails get heavy for that length and with those I prefer to keep the rail length to 10-11".

Ok thanks so my last question actually about rails. There are two to choose from. All i think Im going to do is a rds and a small flashlight. Both rifles have the same weight regardless of rail.
49642. 49643

[Wondering Beard]

Ok thanks so my last question actually about rails. There are two to choose from. All i think Im going to do is a rds and a small flashlight. Both rifles have the same weight regardless of rail.
49642. 49643

While I haven't kept up with what's supposed to be best, I believe that the MLOK rail (top photo) is considered the tougher one (both overall and for strength of accessory mounting) of the two. However, if your use is as a personal defense rifle, as well as for fun, and only are going to attach a light, and leave things that way, I don't think it matters at all. Nevertheless, since MLOK is becoming the dominant system, I would assume that all future accessories are going to be made to fit MLOK and much less Keymod; that may or may not matter to you.

Mine, btw, is almost the same as the second photo (I have an A2 MD on it)

[Clusterfrack]

If I was buying an upper, this is what I would get:

BCM[emoji2400] MK2 BFH 14.5" Mid Length (ENHANCED Light Weight) Upper Receiver Group w/ MCMR-13
https://bravocompanyusa.com/bcm-mk2-bfh-14-5-mid-length-enhanced-light-weight-upper-receiver-group-w-mcmr-13-handguard/

Or maybe the Keymod version because I actually like Keymod better.

[UNK]

Thanks for all the input. You made this easy.

[Tokarev]

If the NFA didn't exist, all my AR's would be 12.5". But, that's not current reality, so I stick with 16". Shorter would be cool, sure, but I've never been interested enough based on my needs to actually bother SBRing one.

I myself do not like being stuck with something I can't work on. A pinned and welded 14.5 is exactly that, something I can't work on. Barrels, rails, gas blocks, muzzle devices, all things you could not easily change yourself if you were so inclined. It also cost money to have it removed and reinstalled. I've changed rails and muzzle devices more times than I can count, so pinned and welded is a hard pass for me.VG6 Epsilon is smaller in diameter than anything else on the market that I know of. It is probably the best option for someone wanting or needing a pinned brake who still wants to be able to change out barrel components.

https://www.vg6precision.com/vg6-epsilon-556sl

Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk

[StraitR]

VG6 Epsilon is smaller in diameter than anything else on the market that I know of. It is probably the best option for someone wanting or needing a pinned brake who still wants to be able to change out barrel components.

https://www.vg6precision.com/vg6-epsilon-556sl

Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk

Looks like a viable option for anyone not running suppressors.

[Wake27]

If I was buying an upper, this is what I would get:

BCM[emoji2400] MK2 BFH 14.5" Mid Length (ENHANCED Light Weight) Upper Receiver Group w/ MCMR-13
https://bravocompanyusa.com/bcm-mk2-bfh-14-5-mid-length-enhanced-light-weight-upper-receiver-group-w-mcmr-13-handguard/

Or maybe the Keymod version because I actually like Keymod better.

Agreed on that upper. BCM’s ELW profile barrels handle extremely well and I vastly prefer having the rail extended as far as possible to protect the barrel and mount the light forward.

MLOK has been proven by Crane to be better than KeyMod in many aspects, so it’s aftermarket support has caught up and surpassed keymod in the last 2-3 years.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Tokarev]

Looks like a viable option for anyone not running suppressors.I haven't been brave enough to do it but I'd like to pin a suppressor to a 10"-11" barrel. Effectively turn the entire barrel assembly into the suppressor.

This would allow me to run what's basically a suppressed SBR but would only need one stamp. It would also not have the reporting requirements for crossing state lines.

Griffin Armament makes the GP5 and GP7 that are pre-drilled for pinning. SIG lists the SRD556 & 762 as being suitable for pinning as well. Both series are fairly inexpensive but they also aren't the coolest/lightest designs on the market.

Down side to pinning a can (as with pinning most anything to the barrel as noted) is the inability to change out gas blocks or barrel nuts after the pin is done.



Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk

[mmc45414]

Faxon has started to offer several barrels with integral muzzle devices that are smaller than the gas port diameter:
https://faxonfirearms.com/rifle-barrels/integral-muzzle-device/

[mmc45414]

I haven't been brave enough to do it but I'd like to pin a suppressor to a 10"-11" barrel. Effectively turn the entire barrel assembly into the suppressor.
I agree. I do not have any cans, but one of the things holding me back is not desiring a can stretching things out, with the weight of the can way out front. But this is piquing my interest. But is still a long range plan at this point.


Down side to pinning a can (as with pinning most anything to the barrel as noted) is the inability to change out gas blocks or barrel nuts after the pin is done.
You would be committed for sure. You could get the tube out and replace it, and you could get the barrel nut off to move to a different upper. Will you really need to change the gas block? If you use up the barrel you would be able to machine out the pin, and I would expect it could be pinned and welded back onto another barrel.

Another thing I was figuring it get it setup the way you think you want it, and verify it is exactly what you want and functional by putting some rounds through it on a pistol lower, before you have it pinned and welded.

[awp_101]

I haven't been brave enough to do it but I'd like to pin a suppressor to a 10"-11" barrel. Effectively turn the entire barrel assembly into the suppressor.
I have visions of doing a Form 1 can and doing just that. Build it so it can be disassembled from the front and essentially run it as a 6-8" blast deflector/bloop tube until the approval shows up then slide the guts into the tube (and back out when it's time to clean the baffles, etc).

[Tokarev]

I have visions of doing a Form 1 can and doing just that. Build it so it can be disassembled from the front and essentially run it as a 6-8" blast deflector/bloop tube until the approval shows up then slide the guts into the tube (and back out when it's time to clean the baffles, etc).Thunder Beast makes a user serviceable can that can be pinned. But I think it weighs something like 24 ounces. No thanks.

Having the ability to take the can apart to clean it or replace something in case of a baffle strike is nice but not at the addition 8 or 10 ounces.

Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk

[Tokarev]

I agree. I do not have any cans, but one of the things holding me back is not desiring a can stretching things out, with the weight of the can way out front. But this is piquing my interest. But is still a long range plan at this point.


You would be committed for sure. You could get the tube out and replace it, and you could get the barrel nut off to move to a different upper. Will you really need to change the gas block? If you use up the barrel you would be able to machine out the pin, and I would expect it could be pinned and welded back onto another barrel.

Another thing I was figuring it get it setup the way you think you want it, and verify it is exactly what you want and functional by putting some rounds through it on a pistol lower, before you have it pinned and welded.Ideally my pinned barrel would be done with something like a SIG MCX. The gun could be run as an integrally suppressed 300 BLK with one of SIG's fat suppressor handguards and could be swapped over to 223 for general rangetime.

Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk

[mmc45414]

Having the ability to take the can apart to clean it or replace something in case of a baffle strike is nice
So, I know squat, but are not most baffle strikes due to the can coming loose? Are there other potential causes that could strike a can that was pinned and welded in a tight position?

[Tokarev]

Faxon has started to offer several barrels with integral muzzle devices that are smaller than the gas port diameter:
https://faxonfirearms.com/rifle-barrels/integral-muzzle-device/Ruger did this on the SR556C.

I believe the SIG 551 also had a flash hider machined as part of the barrel.

Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk

[Tokarev]

So, I know squat, but are not most baffle strikes due to the can coming loose? Are there other potential causes that could strike a can that was pinned and welded in a tight position?Probably not an issue with supersonic ammo but subs might not always stabilize.

Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk

[mmc45414]

Probably not an issue with supersonic ammo but subs might not always stabilize.
Good to know. More stuff to buy... :cool:

[DpdG]

Faxon has started to offer several barrels with integral muzzle devices that are smaller than the gas port diameter:
https://faxonfirearms.com/rifle-barrels/integral-muzzle-device/

I have the previous generation of 14.5 middy with their .610” p&w flash hider. It allows for changing gas block or barrel nut without taking the muzzle device off. Only complaint is gas port sizing- Faxon really overgasses them quite badly. After adding an adjustable block it’s a fun one to shoot.

[Tokarev]

Here's a link to the Griffin Armament GP5.

https://www.griffinarmament.com/gp5-5-56mm-direct-thread-silencer-1-2x28/

Price on these is pretty good. There are a couple listed on gunbroker.com under $400.

Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk

[mmc45414]

Here's a link to the Griffin Armament GP5.
Looks like a good one to pin and weld. You could pick one of those faces and drill a flat surface:
49701

[Tokarev]

Looks like a good one to pin and weld. You could pick one of those faces and drill a flat surface:
49701From the GA website:

...suppressors come pre-drilled with a .125" hole for pinning to create "one stamp guns". The GP5 can be pinned on a barrel as short as 10.5"

Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk

[Casual Friday]

Man, efile form 1's are coming back in like 30 days, there's no way I'd want to pin and weld a suppressor to avoid a second stamp.

[Tokarev]

Man, efile form 1's are coming back in like 30 days, there's no way I'd want to pin and weld a suppressor to avoid a second stamp.Pros and cons that's for sure.

If a shooter only wants one can to use on a couple different rifles then pinning makes no sense obviously.

On the other hand, if a person wants to suppress an SBR and knows it'll be used exclusively in that capacity then the pinning makes more sense. No tax stamp for the lower since the entire barrel basically becomes the suppressor. Also no need to notify ATF before taking the firearm across state lines.

Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk

[JohnO]

If the NFA didn't exist, all my AR's would be 12.5". But, that's not current reality, so I stick with 16". Shorter would be cool, sure, but I've never been interested enough based on my needs to actually bother SBRing one.

I myself do not like being stuck with something I can't work on. A pinned and welded 14.5 is exactly that, something I can't work on. Barrels, rails, gas blocks, muzzle devices, all things you could not easily change yourself if you were so inclined. It also cost money to have it removed and reinstalled. I've changed rails and muzzle devices more times than I can count, so pinned and welded is a hard pass for me.

I'm looking at 2 BCM 12.5" Uppers for new builds. AR's have been outlawed in CT as banned Assault Weapons. Yet it has been discovered that "Others" are fully legal and transferable. Recently the dam burst and stripped "Other" Lowers have gone on sale in multiple shops. They lowers are selling like wildfire!

A legal "Other" configuration consists of:

Barrel length of at least 12".
Overall length of at least 26".
Pistol Brace or bare buffer tube. SB Tactical SBA3 Brace a very popular choice.
Forward vertical grip.

I know guys who have sold their Pre-Ban ARs and replaced them with "Others". 12.5" barrels being very popular. A few shops are selling 11.5" uppers with pinned & welded muzzle devices to reach the 12"+ minimum. SureFire Warcomps being a popular choice for suppressor readiness.

[mmc45414]

This has caused me to start wondering what exactly is the specification for "pinned and welded"? It was always my understanding that it would be something that would require machining to undo, but is it specifically welded, or is a braze or solder meet the requirement? Not against paying somebody to do it, but I have a capability to drill a few thou through a pilot hole. Is there any spec for the hardness of the pin? Depth? Yada?

I forgot about the elimination of the CLEO sign off requirement. While I am a lifelong local area resident and have friends that could introduce me and I probably could have acquired the signature, the groveling aspect of it has always been distasteful to me. This is probably because sales is my job and kissing yet more ass as a hobby isn't appealing. And I know about the trust angle, but really it has been a moot point because there has always been something else I would rather acquire that doesn't require jumping through any hoops. But in the next 6-12mo I might be in the mood to do this, if an inexpensive can is only ~$600 I probably don't care if it is dedicated to one gun. And if it ever needs to come off drilling it out and rewelding is not going to be that big a deal, IMO.

[rm06]

I have one 14.5" p&w and won't go that route again. Even possessing the tools and know-how to disassemble the muzzle device should you want to change it or your handguard type, the time, money and ass-ache aren't worth it to me. However, as currently configured, it is my lightest, best-gassed and best-balanced AR I currently own.

Maybe it is a mistake all AR owners need to make.

[awp_101]

This has caused me to start wondering what exactly is the specification for "pinned and welded"? It was always my understanding that it would be something that would require machining to undo, but is it specifically welded, or is a braze or solder meet the requirement? Not against paying somebody to do it, but I have a capability to drill a few thou through a pilot hole. Is there any spec for the hardness of the pin? Depth? Yada?

Unless it's changed, I believe the threshold for welding/soldering is something that required 1000-1200* of heat to remove. That sticks with me because during the AWB I had access to silver solder in that range and considered that route for some project or another.

[JohnO]

I had a shop Pin and Weld a PWS 5.56 break on a naked barrel. They threaded the barrel, screwed on the break and drilled through the break and into the barrel. A pin was inserted and then welded over. It looks like one could cut through the break removing the weld. Then drill out the pin and unscrew the break.

[Casual Friday]

Pros and cons that's for sure.

If a shooter only wants one can to use on a couple different rifles then pinning makes no sense obviously.

On the other hand, if a person wants to suppress an SBR and knows it'll be used exclusively in that capacity then the pinning makes more sense. No tax stamp for the lower since the entire barrel basically becomes the suppressor. Also no need to notify ATF before taking the firearm across state lines.

Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk

I'm just not seeing it for any of those reasons. $200 is small money in 2020 and I'll gladly trade that for the ability to remove the suppressor anytime I want.

The 5320.20 is good for a year and they come back pretty quickly, and I've never heard of one being denied unless the state you're traveling to doesn't allow SBR's.

I guess if you lived in some backwards state where you could own a suppressor but not a SBR, but I'm unaware of any state with such laws.

[EPF]

Im looking at the same uppers and I’m curious what the OP decided on and how it worked out.

Also, a long time ago it was common belief that 14 middy guns were more ammo finicky than 16 mids. Does anyone know if that is still true? Thanks

[Clusterfrack]

I have not found a BCM 14.5” to have ammo issues, suppressed or unsuppressed. But, I don’t shoot low power loads like PMC Gold.

[TGS]

Im looking at the same uppers and I’m curious what the OP decided on and how it worked out.

Also, a long time ago it was common belief that 14 middy guns were more ammo finicky than 16 mids. Does anyone know if that is still true? Thanks

Physics doesn't change.

Some 14.5" midlengths have more margin for error than others by way of gas port sizing. If you're concerned about reliability with weak .223 (Tula, Brown Bear, Wolf, etc), then you just need to be choose what sized gas port to go with for a 14.5" middy.

Otherwise it's not an issue.

[EPF]

Physics doesn't change.

Some 14.5" midlengths have more margin for error than others by way of gas port sizing. If you're concerned about reliability with weak .223 (Tula, Brown Bear, Wolf, etc), then you just need to be choose what sized gas port to go with for a 14.5" middy.

Otherwise it's not an issue.

Sounds like you’ve spent a lot of time developing some expertise in the physics of DI ARs. Maybe you could share a cliffs notes version of where the BCM falls on the spectrum :)

[TGS]

Sounds like you’ve spent a lot of time developing some expertise in the physics of DI ARs. Maybe you could share a cliffs notes version of where the BCM falls on the spectrum :)

My BCM 14.5" middy ran beautiful with quality 223 and 5.56. Not so much with notoriously weak, cheap Russian ammo. Obviously if you're shooting suppressed then it's going to be gassed fine no matter what you feed it.

IIRC, BCM's midlength gas port diameter is .076" for both 14.5 and 16. Most 14.5 middies have somewhere from there to .081". I wouldn't call it finicky with ammo.....I'd just refrain from acting like a poor person and stoke it with non-garbage quality ammo.

[Wake27]

My BCMs have always run fine with any steel or brass that I’ve tried and I’ve had several throughout the years. BCM used to be on the conservative side of gassing, but the trend has been smaller gas ports so BCMs are about average now. You shouldn’t see any difference between 14.5 and 16. Personally I strongly prefer a 14.5 mid.

DDs I think are now .72 to .73.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[John Hearne]

I've been buying 14.5" mid-length uppers for our work guns for several years. We only run full power 5.56 ammo through them and they have run 100%.

[NH Shooter]

Having owned both 14.5 and 16-inch BCM middies, I've settled on the 16. I like screwing around with muzzle devices.

My current 16-inch mid-length uses an A5 RE with the A2 buffer, it runs 5.56 loads and .223 75 grain Gold Dots like a champ. Smooth shooter for sure.

[tlong17]

Having owned both 14.5 and 16-inch BCM middies, I've settled on the 16. I like screwing around with muzzle devices.

My current 16-inch mid-length uses an A5 RE with the A2 buffer, it runs 5.56 loads and .223 75 grain Gold Dots like a champ. Smooth shooter for sure.

I seem to come across this combination frequently. 16 inch BCM mid-length and 75 grain Gold Dots. Just like I see, "Glock 19 and 147 HST". How long have you used your BCMs?

[Wake27]

I seem to come across this combination frequently. 16 inch BCM mid-length and 75 grain Gold Dots. Just like I see, "Glock 19 and 147 HST". How long have you used your BCMs?

75gr GD is also my defensive load. The dedicated HD gun is my oldest BCM, a 14.5 ELW-F mid with original KMR, but I zero all of my optics with the GD so my MK18, KAC Mod 2 carbine, and a custom upper with BCM ELW BFH barrel have all shot a few rounds of it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[SecondsCount]

My BCM 14.5" middy ran beautiful with quality 223 and 5.56. Not so much with notoriously weak, cheap Russian ammo. Obviously if you're shooting suppressed then it's going to be gassed fine no matter what you feed it.

IIRC, BCM's midlength gas port diameter is .076" for both 14.5 and 16. Most 14.5 middies have somewhere from there to .081". I wouldn't call it finicky with ammo.....I'd just refrain from acting like a poor person and stoke it with non-garbage quality ammo.

I have an older 16" BCM middy, from 2008 if I recall correctly, that doesn't like steel cased ammo. My understanding is that they have opened up the gas port in the newer models.

It never bothered me because I run my reloads and have never had an issue with them.

[frozentundra]

I've been buying 14.5" mid-length uppers for our work guns for several years. We only run full power 5.56 ammo through them and they have run 100%.


If you don't mind me asking, what 5.56 pressure duty load are you using?

Also, I attended your performance under stress presentation at Paul-E-Palooza 2017. It was a real eye-opener! Thanks for that!

[rob_s]

Unless you live somewhere that will require you to pin anyway, 14.5” pinned is silly.

ETA:
I had what was, I think, one of the first BCM 14.5” midlength pre-production guns with a pinned PWS muzzle brake back when everyone was saying that a 14.5” midlength would never run right. I was one of those people, and even Paul wasn’t sure they could get it to work, so he sent me one to test. I don’t recall having any issue with it shottng Wolf or anything else. This was back in 2010 I believe.

53149


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MgvOMJan2d8

[NH Shooter]

I seem to come across this combination frequently. 16 inch BCM mid-length and 75 grain Gold Dots. Just like I see, "Glock 19 and 147 HST". How long have you used your BCMs?

The current iteration for about five years. I've owned quite a few BCM uppers over the last 12 years or so and other than one that couldn't group better than about 8 MOA, they have all been great. Zero function issues with any of them.

I had a 14.5 mid-length that shot as well as my current 16-inch upper. I paid once to have the muzzle device changed, then me being me and still not happy, decided the 16-inch would be better for my never-ending muzzle device experimentation. The ironic part is I finally settled on a standard A2 birdcage on the current rifle (light weight, short and effective). The 16-inch with a birdcage is only about an inch longer than the 14.5 with the pinned muzzle device.

The 75 GD load isn't the best for super long range due to its ballistics, but for 300 yards and under the terminal ballistics from the 16-inch barrel are impressive. The load typically holds about 1.3 MOA in my current rifle, functions smoothly and reliably.

[rob_s]

Unless you live somewhere that will require you to pin anyway, 14.5” pinned is silly.

ETA:
I had what was, I think, one of the first BCM 14.5” midlength pre-production guns with a pinned PWS muzzle brake back when everyone was saying that a 14.5” midlength would never run right. I was one of those people, and even Paul wasn’t sure they could get it to work, so he sent me one to test. I don’t recall having any issue with it shottng Wolf or anything else. This was back in 2010 I believe.

53149


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MgvOMJan2d8

More here
https://www.m4carbine.net/archive/index.php/t-56626.html

And my round counts. That 75 grain Wolf turned out to have problems In a lot of guns so 1 failure in 770 rounds is really good.
https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?56626-BCM-14-5-Mid-Length-T-amp-E-Range-Report&p=939828#post939828

These are my words but not my pictures.
https://www.tactical-life.com/firearms/bcm-recce-14-556mm/

[John Hearne]

If you don't mind me asking, what 5.56 pressure duty load are you using?

We're shooting 5.56 off of the FBI contract. We've run the Winchester 64 gr BSB and Federal 62 gr Bonded Tactical for duty ammo. We have shot a boatload of the 62 gr OTM practice ammo.


Also, I attended your performance under stress presentation at Paul-E-Palooza 2017. It was a real eye-opener! Thanks for that!

The pleasure was mine. That is a labor of love.