MOBIL 1 in lieu of “gun oil” or grease ?

[Rmiked]

I have been using Lucas Gun Oil and grease on my Beretta 92A1.
A week ago I cleaned it meticulously but used some Mobil
1 Synthetic car oil on the slide/frame rails and locking block and interfacing
frame surfaces. I shot 100 rounds yesterday. It is very slick and quiet. I don’t
plan on doing this long term until I run out of my Lucas products, which I am very
pleased with. Anyone else ever tried this? A soaked Q-tip in the grooves is fast and
easy. Just passing along the experience.

[Irelander]

I've been using Mobile 1 full synthetic for a while now. Seems to work great but does evaporate after a while so keep an eye on it and reapply as needed. I also use grease on the slide rails and sear which was recommended to me here.

[Rmiked]

Do you grease the sear without removing the hammer?

[19852+]

I used to use Mobil 1 and it does work well but I stopped using toxic oils in general about 2 years ago. One quart of that stuff will last a long time ! I only use non-toxic, non-carcinogenic oils now.

[JHC]

I have been using Lucas Gun Oil and grease on my Beretta 92A1.
A week ago I cleaned it meticulously but used some Mobil
1 Synthetic car oil on the slide/frame rails and locking block and interfacing
frame surfaces. I shot 100 rounds yesterday. It is very slick and quiet. I don’t
plan on doing this long term until I run out of my Lucas products, which I am very
pleased with. Anyone else ever tried this? A soaked Q-tip in the grooves is fast and
easy. Just passing along the experience.

Oh yeah! For many years long term too albeit I keep Slip2000 around as my first choice. For no other reason than . . . well, I'm not sure.

And last year I think I read where Rob of Alchemy (custom 1911s) might have said tight 1911s do better with light lubes like a Mobil 1. Apologies in advance if I mis-ID'd that comment but I'm pretty sure.

[CWM11B]

A lot of folks have advocated it for a pretty good while. The only negative I've heard is that some of the additives in it for keeping the engine clean are carcinogenic. I dont know, and suspect the risk is overstated if it actually exists. Most lubricants designed for machinery are going to work on guns. A lot of "revolutionary" gun juice has come and gone, and a bunch of the claims are basically carnie barker in nature. A quart of Mobile 1 should probably last the average shooter a lifetime. Personally, I use Slip 2000 products and have for years with no complaints.

[LittleLebowski]

I do this, sort of. I just use Amazon synthetic oil (https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Full-Synthetic-Motor-dexos1-Gen2/dp/B07C5FF8R5/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?gclid=Cj0KCQiAkePyBRCEARIsAMy5Sctg qmIaGhNeSbACBGwcxP1a7dS-euXYA6dLwO3rkbB4wtqGufmW1OoaApb1EALw_wcB&hvadid=410022135034&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9007569&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=9634332057840541234&hvtargid=kwd-642989587384&hydadcr=6400_11107174&keywords=amazon+basic+synthetic+oil&qid=1582902590&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExMTYzWURQMUdHVlczJ mVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMTMwNzUyWTdETloyS0dQU0xEJmVuY3J 5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA4Mzg4MzdEOVBYRTBYTENGOVgmd2lkZ2V0T mFtZT1zcF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3R Mb2dDbGljaz10cnVl) which is very highly rated and much cheaper.

[ranger]

I am running out of the assorted free lube bottles I picked up at matches, etc. I recently ordered a couple of small squeeze bottles off Amazon to use Mobil 1 - have plenty of it in the garage.

[19852+]

I am running out of the assorted free lube bottles I picked up at matches, etc. I recently ordered a couple of small squeeze bottles off Amazon to use Mobil 1 - have plenty of it in the garage.

I put one of those free bottles/syringes in every range bag ! But I freely lube my weapons anyway so I've never used one at the range and since I don't live in a dusty environment [anymore] it hasn't been a problem.

[UNM1136]

Another that preferrs other, cleaner stuff. But I have in the past and will in the future use synthetic motor oil in a pinch. In one of my armorers classes (AR15) it was actually recommended, to the point of using your vehicle dipstick to put a couple of drops here and there in the rifle.

pat

[vcdgrips]

I have been a Mobil 1 full synthetic motor oil/lithium bearing grease for a long time with great success.

Having said that, a gun that starts clean and is well lubed will run on just about any lube to include motor oil, cooking oil, essential oil and even Vagisil. (Thank you Pat Rogers/Mid-MO Carbine Class 2008 for that demo.)

[BobM]

It’s been recommended to me from multiple sources, including S&W armorer instructors for their M&Ps and M&P15s. I’ve bee using it for years at home and at work.

[Beat Trash]

The "official" lube available at my agency is Mobil 1 synthetic oil. It works well enough on a range and the price is right.

But I don't use it personally. I find it burns off sooner than other options and it runs off of weapons stored in vertical racks sooner than oils like Slip 2000 EWL.

Yes, Slip 2000 is much more expensive than a quart of Mobil 1. But even still, a 4 oz bottle of Slip 2000 will last me a long time...

[Maple Syrup Actual]

The only time I don't use it is when I can't find it.

I always have a bunch of random stuff lying around from my days with the magazine and also my shop of tools which get maintenance at random, caffiene-based intervals so sometimes I use gun products but my favourite alternative is actually air tool oil. Something about it feels very smooth, subjectively speaking and with no data at all to support this conclusion. But it's a machine oil that withstands pretty severe service, inhibits corrosion and has no combusion-related additives, or at least, I assume it doesn't because why would it?

But I have a 946 millilitres of Mobil 1 and I'm sure I have at least 800 millilitres left, which is the most convenient way to phrase that in metric.

[LittleLebowski]

But I have a 946 millilitres of Mobil 1 and I'm sure I have at least 800 millilitres left, which is the most convenient way to phrase that in metric.

Sigh....frostbacks.

[RevolverRob]

I'm still a silicone spray guy - https://www.amazon.com/CRC-03040-Silicone-Lubricant-Weight/dp/B00192D0TQ/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=Silicone+Spray&qid=1582912216&sr=8-7

I figure anything that is rated for incidental contact with my mouth-hole is probably okay for being on a gun I handle and wash my hands after handling and shooting.

I find spray works better, for me, plus it's easy as hell to wipe off any excess and has the same properties as a silicone rag (i.e., helps prevent rust on surfaces). I've found it stupid easy to keep guns clean this way, even heavy carbon buildup wipes off with very little work. The only time I have to scrub a gun is if I have a lot of carbon built up on a stainless (for same reason I always find stainless harder to clean).

[EVP]

Motor oil will obviously work as well as a bunch of other lubes, and has been used in other countries for a long time. I don’t understand why someone would want to use it when there are better options with less harmful ingredients. The only reason comes down to price.

On another subject I remember hearing a podcast from a legit person who that is their field of experience talk about grease not being the best option for handguns and rifles and are better for crew served machine guns and equipment. Cannot remember the source unfortunately.

[TCinVA]

Mobil 1 will work just fine.

Lubricating handguns is simply not a terribly demanding lubrication problem. The important thing is to use some, and to use it in the right places.

[TCinVA]

On another subject I remember hearing a podcast from a legit person who that is their field of experience talk about grease not being the best option for handguns and rifles and are better for crew served machine guns and equipment. Cannot remember the source unfortunately.

Most likely a brief mention by ARay, who actually holds certification in the Society of Tribologists and Lubrication Engineers.

[mtnbkr]

Most likely a brief mention by ARay, who actually holds certification in the Society of Tribologists and Lubrication Engineers.

It was. I remember the podcast (or one of them if he did multiple).

Chris

[JonInWA]

Another that preferrs other, cleaner stuff. But I have in the past and will in the future use synthetic motor oil in a pinch. In one of my armorers classes (AR15) it was actually recommended, to the point of using your vehicle dipstick to put a couple of drops here and there in the rifle.

pat

That was probably for an AK47, and the dipstick was to be obtained from the nearest GAZ or Technical, provided you avoided being pistol-whipped or butt-stroked by said vehicle's occupants during the process....

Kidding.

Realistically, most lubricants with in an acceptable range of viscosity will probably work-at least for a time. Your choice probably needs to devolve around your expectations of the lubricant effectiveness, persistence, and your ability to check and re-apply as necessary to maintain said effectiveness for expected use scenarios.

My personal preference is to use grease for areas of metal-on-metal component reciprocation, a proven weapon general lube for other metal applications, and a dry film lubricant for difficult to access action parts and inner magazine tubes and springs.

Best, Jon

[mtnbkr]

For years I've used common ATF for liquid lube and either a bike-oriented product known as Slick Honey or most recently Geissele Go Juice when I want a thin grease. I tend to use thin greases inside revolvers and oil everywhere else.

I'm intrigued by the silicone spray linked by RevolverRob and have added it to my Amazon Wish List.

Chris

[Trigger]

For years I've used common ATF for liquid lube and either a bike-oriented product known as Slick Honey or most recently Geissele Go Juice when I want a thin grease. I tend to use thin greases inside revolvers and oil everywhere else.

I'm intrigued by the silicone spray linked by RevolverRob and have added it to my Amazon Wish List.

Chris

Yeah. Tranny Fluid is better. STS!

(Ducks and runs for cover)

49253

[Jim Watson]

I have so many odds and ends of free samples and old fad lubes that I will probably never have to buy "gun" oil or grease again.
Mobil 1 with a bit of STP or Lucas Stabilizer works OK (Half and half is too viscous, I'm at 3 or 4 to one.)

[guymontag]

No degree or certification or book smarts from me, just that street knowledge. LOL

I prefer the heavier weight oils as opposed to the thin lightweight stuff - MGL, Slip200, lighter engine oils, etc. and I prefer the non toxic stuff too. Slip EWL30 is my main choice here in Texas, but I do bust out the grease for locking lugs and sears and trigger bars when I’m feeling a little frisky. The main thing I hate is run-off, on to the clothes or skin and the heavier stuff stays where I put it - better. Synthetic oils should be healthier than the conventional stuff IIRC but I haven’t looked at the MSDS for oils in a while.

I did not like the Lucas products. Color, MSDS, performance vs other stuff I’ve tried.

[Darth_Uno]

I have enough lubes, greases and oils to last the rest of my life. That said, I don't think the gun lube manufacturers know something the auto companies don't. An old trick if your gun is running dry at the range is to pull your dipstick and swipe the oil off of that.

Know why you should bend your elbows when shooting a 1911? So the oil has a low spot to drip from.

[blues]

I have enough lubes, greases and oils to last the rest of my life. That said, I don't think the gun lube manufacturers know something the auto companies don't. An old trick if your gun is running dry at the range is to pull your dipstick and swipe the oil off of that.

Know why you should bend your elbows when shooting a 1911? So the oil has a low spot to drip from.

I'm surprised anyone know what a dipstick is anymore.

[EricG]

I used to but have since moved to Lucas products for everything. Pistol, shotgun and rifle. Doesnt evaporate as fast as the car stuff.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

[fatdog]

Been using Mobile One 30W for over 20 years, works fine.

[Paul Blackburn]

Ive read on numerous occasions that grease tends to hold brass shavings whereas oil does not. Grease can also gum up in colder temps.

[JonInWA]

Ive read on numerous occasions that grease tends to hold brass shavings whereas oil does not. Grease can also gum up in colder temps.

Since I field-strip and clean after each shooting, I haven't observed or am particularly worried about brass shavings. FWIW, brass shavings seem to occur with more frequency with practice/dummy rounds than actual live fire cartridges.

I agree with the possibilities of grease congealing at low temps and inducing operational issues. In cold climates, I'd probably remove grease from my lubricant palette, and go to thinner viscosity options (or even Dri-Slide, but only for low roundcounts).

Best, Jon

[JBP55]

I have been using Mobil 1 VTWIN 20W50 for a very long time and it works for me.

[Jiman]

Here’s a very informative article on gun oils and greases if you really want to geek out.

Lubrication 101: Gun Oil, Snake Oil and How to Tell the Difference by Grant Cunningham

https://www.grantcunningham.com/2006/05/lubrication-101/

I transitioned to ATF fluid (Been awhile now) since reading the article and I’m a believer.

[Greg]

Your guns don’t care. Just use something.

[GyroF-16]

Here’s a very informative article on gun oils and greases if you really want to geek out.

Lubrication 101: Gun Oil, Snake Oil and How to Tell the Difference by Grant Cunningham

https://www.grantcunningham.com/2006/05/lubrication-101/

I transitioned to ATF fluid (Been awhile now) since reading the article and I’m a believer.

Thanks for sharing that link - it was a good read.

[TCinVA]

Ive read on numerous occasions that grease tends to hold brass shavings whereas oil does not. Grease can also gum up in colder temps.

Right. Grease has a tendency to get sticky and bind up in colder temps.

A lot of people like grease because they think it stays where you put it. They usually don't realize that grease is just oil in a binder. The binder sticks around but the oil still does oil things like evaporate, burn off, or migrate...leaving the binder behind. Which now, deprived of oil, actually holds on to other stuff and turns into an abrasive.

[ChaseN]

After years of paying for and keeping multiple different types of expensive specialty lubes on hand I started using Mobil 1 15w50 on my guns, mountain bike drivetrains, and air cooled Porsche. I haven't noticed any differences and it sure is nice to have one quart of oil on the shelf that lasts forever and serves multiple purposes

[OlongJohnson]

Most likely a brief mention by ARay, who actually holds certification in the Society of Tribologists and Lubrication Engineers.

Look for it here.
https://firearmsradio.tv/civilian-carry-radio/civilian-carry-radio-068-ashton-ray-us-navy-vet-and-owner-of-360-performance-shooting


Right. Grease has a tendency to get sticky and bind up in colder temps.

A lot of people like grease because they think it stays where you put it. They usually don't realize that grease is just oil in a binder. The binder sticks around but the oil still does oil things like evaporate, burn off, or migrate...leaving the binder behind. Which now, deprived of oil, actually holds on to other stuff and turns into an abrasive.

This. The little carbon and other abrasive bits turn into a lapping paste if they aren't flushed out. Adding new lube and running wet helps flush them out. So does pulling off the slide and spending 30 seconds running a penny's worth of cotton swabs up and down the rails.

I'm in the non-toxic camp, as I seem to be a bit of a canary when it comes to chemicals. I have been going through some FP-10 and some Weapon Shield. I have good results with plain old Hoppes #9 oil on revolvers. I read the Grant Cunningham piece and have a can of SFL-0 for things I grease. Would put some FMO-350-AW (https://www.lubriplate.com/Products/Fluid/FMO-AW-Series/FMO-350-AW/FMO-350-AW/) in the queue to try if I could find it reasonably priced, or in reasonable quantities. There is a guy who repackages it and sells on Fleabay. Maybe I'll give that a shot when I need to buy some more gun oil one day.

[UNM1136]

Here’s a very informative article on gun oils and greases if you really want to geek out.

Lubrication 101: Gun Oil, Snake Oil and How to Tell the Difference by Grant Cunningham

https://www.grantcunningham.com/2006/05/lubrication-101/

I transitioned to ATF fluid (Been awhile now) since reading the article and I’m a believer.

I stil have a .50 cal ammo can filled with home brewed Ed's Red Bore Cleaner, which is largely ATF, as a dunk tank for parts.

pat

[Clusterfrack]

Lubricants have several functions, and any single formulation is not equally good at all of them:

-Friction reduction, friction modulation
-Wear reduction, including removal of wear products
-Corrosion inhibition
-Heat management (probably irrelevant to firearms)

I have explored a lot of options, and settled on a few that work well for my needs. I've also found some that really don't work well.

Lucas extreme gun oil and Lucas marine grease are my choice for high round counts and 3-4k between cleanings in my Shadow2s. I had over 33,000 rounds on a single slide stop in my practice gun, using a thin film of grease.

I like Weaponshield oil and grease for bolt action rifles.

[beenalongtime]

Lube always has different properties. TWB25 has a lower temp operation then Superlube, if you know your going to be out below -40 F. Oil is rated similarly.
I've been more tempted, but am using up what I have, to just go to straight mineral oil. It is a food grade oil, that is the basis of so many of them, and I have it on hand for things like my cutting boards or machines from a friends restaurant, that require food grade NSF listed lubes.
However I do agree the bigger point is to just use some lube (remember a discussion with an old WWII vet, years ago, wasn't about guns per say but covered it a bit).
Most of the carcinogen's I expect are not about casual skin contact, since mechanics have that for a LONG time, but ingestion (wash your hands, wash your hands, wash your hands). How many of them are from the detergents, verses the base oil? Both the lawnmower and the Beetle I have, use non detergent 30 weight, so that is always around.

[mtnbkr]

the Beetle I have, use non detergent 30 weight, so that is always around.
[Thread Drift]Why? I know that's what John Muir of the Compleat Idiot's Guide (still have my grease-stained, duct-tape-bound copy) suggests, but that info is 40+ years old. Even if your Beetle doesn't have an oil filter (originally used a "screen") and undergoes a compressed drain schedule (I changed my Beetle's oil every 1500-2000 miles until I installed a filter-equipped pump), I don't see the downside of modern oil.[/Thread Drift].

Chris

[beenalongtime]

[Thread Drift]Why? I know that's what John Muir of the Compleat Idiot's Guide (still have my grease-stained, duct-tape-bound copy) suggests, but that info is 40+ years old. Even if your Beetle doesn't have an oil filter (originally used a "screen") and undergoes a compressed drain schedule (I changed my Beetle's oil every 1500-2000 miles until I installed a filter-equipped pump), I don't see the downside of modern oil.[/Thread Drift].

Chris

It is inexpensive in the car which doesn't have an oil filter (eventually I would like a more oomph engine with filter), and I have driven it less then that 2K the last several years, due to my work schedule (just gets an annual change mostly due to sitting).
If it were a rebuilt motor with new parts, it might make more sense to use a modern oil, rather then what was used over its lifetime.

[M2CattleCo]

Motor oil is fine if you're the type that cleans guns. It doesn't matter if it's synthetic or not, which Mobil 1 really isn't, and isn't really a high end engine oil anyway.

It oxidizes and gets nasty and won't wash out of clothes.


I use Slip EWL 30 because it lubes well, doesn't stink, and washes out of clothes.

[Brian T]

Right now its what is left of my Slip2000 oil and grease. I think they make a fine product.

But soon I will switch toMobil 1 Aviation 254 Oil and Mobil 1 MobilGrease 28. Extremely high temperature tolerance and very low evaporation.

[medic15al]

Won't use motor oil except as a last resort due to staining clothes and stinking like motor oil.

I prefer the Ballistol or Hoppe's Lubricating oil which isn't petroleum based, as I shoot black powder cartridges as well.

[RJ]

Slip 2000 EWL here. Bought a 4 oz bottle in 2015 I think it was. I had to buy another bottle last month.

I have my sorted-by-cost per ounce lubricant list somewhere on an old PC. I’ll see if I can dig it out.

[JTQ]

Slip 2000 EWL here. Bought a 4 oz bottle in 2015 I think it was. I had to buy another bottle last month.
I'm all for folks choosing motor oil if they think it works the best, but as you point out, while gun specific oil is probably quite a bit more expensive than motor oil, it's a cost that is lost in the noise of all the other costs involved in shooting a firearm.

That $10-ish, 4 oz bottle of gun lube will take you through several hundred dollars worth of ammo. Gun lube, even the most expensive products, is not a significant cost.

[RJ]

Haha Thanks Tom. I had just found that post from 2016 lol.

[FNFAN]

I use Slip2000 but bought a bottle of "Gunfighter" oil just so I could unpack it from my range bag in front of one of our trainers. Had precisely the effect I sought:rolleyes:

[orionz06]

I only use non-toxic, non-carcinogenic oils now.

Pretty sure the combustion byproducts captured in the clean oil is just as bad as anything else, FWIW.

[guymontag]

This. The little carbon and other abrasive bits turn into a lapping paste if they aren't flushed out. Adding new lube and running wet helps flush them out. So does pulling off the slide and spending 30 seconds running a penny's worth of cotton swabs up and down the rails.

I suppose I’ll have to listen to the podcast if I have the time - otherwise using grease from Slip and Weaponshield and Brian I haven’t noticed undue wear or grittiness for training/comp/dry fire. I know Fennell advises against grease as well but I’ve not encountered any issue in practice. I guess I’ll thank the lord for modern steels and nitro finishes and a peaceful society for civilians.

[Sig_Fiend]

Real men use 90W diff oil... ;-)

[andre3k]

I was qualifying on our SWAT range last summer and saw a bottle of this mixed together (5w20:ATF mixed 2:1). I have no idea if they use it in their individual weapons but they mix that up in bulk for classes where officers don't have their weapons properly lubed.

49312

[the Schwartz]

I've used Mobil 1 before, but find it to be less than acceptable for the fact that it tends to stain clothing and evaporate or migrate to places best left unlubricated.

When it comes to lubricating firearms, I've been most satisfied with Break Free LP for it's thicker consistency as well as its ability to lubricate and protect as per its label.

[flyrodr]

I've been lubricating guns since I used the 3-in-One oil, Singer sewing machine oil, motor oil or other miscellaneous oils I found around the house, or genuine gun oil (Revelation Gun oil from the local Western Auto, our small town "sporting guns" store). I've tried an awfully lot of the other products over the years. They've been used in break-action single barrel shotguns, single shot .22s, and all sorts of pump and semi-auto rimfire and centerfire pistols, rifles and shotguns. Obviously, the "need" for lubrication varies, depending upon the usage and conditions of use, and maintenance.

I don't recall any that didn't work, as long as the guns were kept lubed.

I have seen a few problems. None of the lubes work if not used. Many are OK for lubrication, but not so good for rust prevention (lots more blued guns years ago). Some stay put better, during normal use, hard use, or long-term storage. But as long as the gun is lubed properly, most work. Some get sticky over time. I recall that sewing machine oil, in particular, having a sticky residue around the top when I took it out of the drawer it had been sitting in, untouched for months.

A problem I have seen fairly often is when a gun is cleaned with a solvent, fresh lube applied, and the next time the gun is taken down to use, the lube is gone, or has become tacky, or as some greases do, become close to solid. Seems it's important to not leave solvent all over/in the action before applying lube.

I'm not a petro head, but I'm not a fan of all-in-one products. Certainly they work, but I just can't wrap my head around the idea that one bottle can clean out powder/lead/brass residue, lubricate the gun, and provide a protective coating as well as separate products. How does the cleaner portion not affect the lubrication portion? But then, I have similar problems understanding "cleaner/wax" as being better than separate products. Easier, certainly. Better, I just don't know.

As has been stated many times in this thread, if you have a favored product, and it works for you, run with it. I certainly agree with using less toxic products.

[PearTree]

Look for it here.
https://firearmsradio.tv/civilian-carry-radio/civilian-carry-radio-068-ashton-ray-us-navy-vet-and-owner-of-360-performance-shooting



This. The little carbon and other abrasive bits turn into a lapping paste if they aren't flushed out. Adding new lube and running wet helps flush them out. So does pulling off the slide and spending 30 seconds running a penny's worth of cotton swabs up and down the rails.

I'm in the non-toxic camp, as I seem to be a bit of a canary when it comes to chemicals. I have been going through some FP-10 and some Weapon Shield. I have good results with plain old Hoppes #9 oil on revolvers. I read the Grant Cunningham piece and have a can of SFL-0 for things I grease. Would put some FMO-350-AW (https://www.lubriplate.com/Products/Fluid/FMO-AW-Series/FMO-350-AW/FMO-350-AW/) in the queue to try if I could find it reasonably priced, or in reasonable quantities. There is a guy who repackages it and sells on Fleabay. Maybe I'll give that a shot when I need to buy some more gun oil one day.
http://lubrikit.com/store/

This is the website recommended from the article, looks like they have 4oz bottles.

[OkieHeat]

http://lubrikit.com/store/

This is the website recommended from the article, looks like they have 4oz bottles.

So is the lubrikit food grade lube? If so does it have a expiration date??

[OlongJohnson]

FMO-350-AW is represented as "food grade" in more technical terms by Lubriplate.

https://www.lubriplate.com/Products/Fluid/FMO-AW-Series/FMO-350-AW/FMO-350-AW/


The LUBRIPLATE FMO-AW Series of Lubricants was developed in order to meet the ever-increasing demands of pressure, speed and temperature that are placed on modern food machinery. These premium food machinery lubricants are fully formulated with non-toxic, USP white mineral oils and are fortified with anti-oxidants, corrosion inhibitors, anti-wear agents and foam suppressants. The NSF International has registered them as H-1 lubricants, covering incidental contact with food. As such, they are acceptable as lubricants and anti-rust films on equipment and machine parts used in locations where there is exposure to edible products. These oils are all zinc-free. The LUBRIPLATE FMO-AW Series of lubricants are high viscosity index, high aniline point oils, making them ideal for hydraulics, chains, gearboxes, air line lubricators and general oiling.

(Bold added.) You can explore Lubriplate's site with data sheets and MSDS for everything through the link above.