Racking Slide Too Hard, Causing Malfunction?

[C.W. Clark]

A dead trigger on a pistol designated to carry is not only concerning it is unacceptable.

I've had two occasions in 10,000 rounds or so on my Glock 19 GEN 3 where I've performed a reload and gotten a dead trigger (trigger in the forward position appearing to be reset but when pressed it just falls to the rear not engaging the striker).

While performing a reload during dry fire today and turning the pistol inboard to rack the slide, if I rack too hard I am able to replicate this problem. Has anyone heard of this happening before?

[Danjojo]

Any parts swapped out along the way and is it all OEM parts? Only thing to do is replace guts or let Glock do it for you.

[C.W. Clark]

Any parts swapped out along the way and is it all OEM parts? Only thing to do is replace guts or let Glock do it for you.

All OEM, only replaced the RSA, connector, slide lock, slide lock spring.

[Olim9]

I’ve had my trigger go dead when I racked the slide on my G48 which happened specifically when the chamber was empty. The culprit it seems was my 5lb reduced striker spring I installed. I replaced it with the OEM one and it alleviated the problem. Different Gen and like you said, all OEM on your gun so it might be something to look into.

[rsa-otc]

All OEM, only replaced the RSA, connector, slide lock, slide lock spring.

Except for possibly the connector I don't believe any of those would have an effect on the sear reset. Is there a sear spring??

[C.W. Clark]

I've also noticed another issue.... I'm trying to figure out how I can upload a video.

[C.W. Clark]

Upload to Youtube (or similar video sharing/hosting service) and post a link here. You can't upload video directly to PF.

Lets see if this works...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zmPQJ_FeU5M

[Danjojo]

Slide lock backwards

That and a connector not properly seated seems to be the biggest bugaboos replacing parts.

[C.W. Clark]

Slide lock backwards

Nope. Recess facing the rear

[GJM]

The connector on a Gen 5 and 43/48 goes in differently than a prev Gen Glock. Make sure the “tab goes under the thingee.” If not, you will get a dead trigger.

[C.W. Clark]

Slide lock backwards

That and a connector not properly seated seems to be the biggest bugaboos replacing parts.

How is the connector supposed to be seated? I have it in the "S" shape and also made sure it was not cocked to the side or twisted upon installation.

[GJM]

Sorry it is the tab, but not on connector. See below.

48389

[Danjojo]

Nope. Recess facing the rear


Has to be the slide lock spring then. :confused: Unless the slide lock or barrel are seriously damaged.

[GJM]

Sorry, thought we were discussing a G48 issue not G3 19.

[C.W. Clark]

Has to be the slide lock spring then. :confused: Unless the slide lock or barrel are seriously damaged.

That's why I'm so confused. Everything looks to be in order. Nothing appears to be broken and the slide lock spring has been replaced within the past year. The issue first became apparent when I would do one hand manipulations (dry) when I would rack the slide hard off of my belt buckle the slide lock would move halfway down in its slot so when I pulled the trigger the slide would come off. I've done hundreds of repetitions in live fire without issue.

Replacing the spring didn't make a difference btw.

[C.W. Clark]

Any Glock armorers in the SW Ohio region willing and able to take a look let me know.

[C.W. Clark]

That's why I'm so confused. Everything looks to be in order. Nothing appears to be broken and the slide lock spring has been replaced within the past year. The issue first became apparent when I would do one hand manipulations (dry) when I would rack the slide hard off of my belt buckle the slide lock would move halfway down in its slot so when I pulled the trigger the slide would come off. I've done hundreds of repetitions in live fire without issue (after the replacement).

Replacing the spring didn't make a difference btw.

[SoCalDep]

Not a Glock Armorer and in a hotel tired as shit after five days on the range (tired but happy!) but I’d check the spring that pulls the trigger to the rear when the striker isn’t pushing the cruciform forward. It needs to be in a centered vertical orientation and in the notch (the spring end that’s towards the front of the pistol) or bad things happen. The spring also needs to be installed a specific way with the open ends pointed the right way. May want to check that.

I can’t figure out how to upload to imgur and edit to a normal picture size on imgur, so if this makes no sense PM me an email address and I’ll send a picture of what I’m talking about. It caused me a few headaches.

[L-2]

Diagnosing over the internet is often futile, but here are some suggestions after watching that Youtube vid. My thoughts aren't in any particular order other than how they came to my brain.

-obtain another slide lock spring and install. It's possible the existing one was the wrong part or somehow defective.
-might as well get a new slide-lock, too, as the price is inexpensive.

-get a new trigger mechanism housing to replace present/old one. The old one could be causing the cruciform to drop below a suitable trigger-bar/firing pin engagement.

-get an orange "inspection-only" cover plate to check TB/FP engagement. Examine firing pin and trigger-bar's cruciform for any wear or modifications.

-Check serial number to determine if you need the "+" trigger-bar for pre "EH" serial numbers. I think these were all older Gen2 guns.

-for now, use a stock Glock-brand, unmodified connector.

-My last thoughts are to examine the frame for cracking; sometimes these cracks are from the top down, causing the frame to flex too much;
-ensure the rear frame rails are present and not broken off (usually on frames in the serial number range EKx###US to EVx###US.

[arcticlightfighter]

A dead trigger on a pistol designated to carry is not only concerning it is unacceptable.

I've had two occasions in 10,000 rounds or so on my Glock 19 GEN 3 where I've performed a reload and gotten a dead trigger (trigger in the forward position appearing to be reset but when pressed it just falls to the rear not engaging the striker).

While performing a reload during dry fire today and turning the pistol inboard to rack the slide, if I rack too hard I am able to replicate this problem. Has anyone heard of this happening before?

10k Rds? I’d replace the connector and trigger w/ trigger bar assembly. Sounds like it is not resetting

[BigT]

Make sure the trigger spring is centred in the notch on the bottom of the cruciform side of the trigger bar and not off centred. That would cause this issue. You can check with the slide off and the frame assembled.

[ST911]

Try swapping in a known-good upper then a lower from another gun. Follow whichever half remains broken.

Take clear pics of the assembled upper and lower internal engagement surfaces and post them here.

Why did your slide fly off? Check your slide lock spring. Should be flat to the front, groove to the rear.

Verify the trigger spring is intact. Half coil on each end, one slipped into the underside hole on the trigger with trigger bar and the other slipped into the hole in the trigger mechanism housing. Should be oriented in an S when viewed from the right.

10k rounds is nothing, but possible you have some wear or threshold engagement.

Definitely not a pre-EH gun so (+) bar wouldn't apply. Sometimes used to correct an engagement problem in later guns, but it's rare.

Are you certain no one has been inside the gun "improving" it, or ".25 trigger jobs"? Done in the past, and now you have accumulated and accelerated wear?

[C.W. Clark]

10k Rds? I’d replace the connector and trigger w/ trigger bar assembly. Sounds like it is not resetting

The connector has been replaced, I have not replaced the trigger or trigger bar assembly which I will do.

[C.W. Clark]

Make sure the trigger spring is centred in the notch on the bottom of the cruciform side of the trigger bar and not off centred. That would cause this issue. You can check with the slide off and the frame assembled.

Thanks Big T. Yes the connector or trigger spring is centered in the notch and in correct "S" shape.

[C.W. Clark]

Try swapping in a known-good upper then a lower from another gun. Follow whichever half remains broken.

Take clear pics of the assembled upper and lower internal engagement surfaces and post them here.

Why did your slide fly off? Check your slide lock spring. Should be flat to the front, groove to the rear.

Verify the trigger spring is intact. Half coil on each end, one slipped into the underside hole on the trigger with trigger bar and the other slipped into the hole in the trigger mechanism housing. Should be oriented in an S when viewed from the right.

10k rounds is nothing, but possible you have some wear or threshold engagement.

Definitely not a pre-EH gun so (+) bar wouldn't apply. Sometimes used to correct an engagement problem in later guns, but it's rare.

Are you certain no one has been inside the gun "improving" it, or ".25 trigger jobs"? Done in the past, and now you have accumulated and accelerated wear?

Thanks ST911. I will take pictures today and post them. I have no idea why my slide flew off. I've had a similar experience in the past when performing one handed manipulations. After racking the slide off of my belt buckle (hard, same as in video) I've noticed the slide lock being caught in the middle position in its slot and if the trigger is pulled, the slide will unlock from the frame. Similar to this video..

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C2ItwHaaAaw

Trigger spring has been replaced and is in the correct "S" orientation when viewed from the right as well as straight inside of the trigger housing, not cocked to the side.

Yes, I bought this pistol new in 2014. No trigger jobs or anything have been done to it.

[C.W. Clark]

Pictures are inbound.

After taking pictures I decided to dis and reassemble the frame and when installing the SL spring I applied upward torque to the rear end of the spring. Not enough to bend it but enough to "stiffen" it up. After installing the slide lock it seems as though the problem of the slide coming off has been fixed. Before when I would rack the slide there was a slight "wobble" I could feel almost as if the slide was moving in a different direction (side to side?) rather than just front to back. Not sure if that makes sense or not but I no longer can feel the wobble and the slide lock will not move from the up position.

The trigger is the same. Could the trigger bar/connector wear enough to prevent the trigger from resetting and staying in the forward position? I was having a hard time getting it to lock in place.

[C.W. Clark]

48533

48534

48535

48536

48537

48538

48539

[Coyote41]

Hard to tell for real, but looking at the photos is there damage on the rear of the cruciform?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[C.W. Clark]

Actually I can still re-create the issue if I rip the slide to the rear with a lot of force and simultaneously push the grip of the pistol forward. It's a timing issue, its being released at a certain time when something allows it to leave the frame. If I just rack the slide it won't happen.

[C.W. Clark]

Hard to tell for real, but looking at the photos is there damage on the rear of the cruciform?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Na there's no damage or deformation. Just wear/discoloration

[GJM]

Looking at the pictures, I think I see the problem — that Glock is too clean to run reliably. Bad jokes aside, has there been discussion of just sending it back to Glock for repair?

[C.W. Clark]

Looking at the pictures, I think I see the problem — that Glock is too clean to run reliably. Bad jokes aside, has there been discussion of just sending it back to Glock for repair?

LOL. I'm anal about weapons maintenance.

I've seen it mentioned here and that's probably going to be my next step assuming the parts kit I have on order doesn't fix the problem(s). Although I would hate to do that.

How would you recommend I go about starting that process if I do need to send it back? Should I call and explain the situation and send pictures/video? Can I submit a "trouble shooting ticket" package so they know what the issues are when the pistol arrives?

[1Rangemaster]

My experience with GLOCK customer service has been generally positive. Many on this site have had positive experiences also, I believe.
I think simply call GLOCK and ask for customer service. They can guide you from there.

[L-2]

If an owner decides to send in a Glock for repair, there's a warranty form found on this weblink:

https://us.glock.com/en/downloadable-materials

Fill out the form and send your Glock using the instructions provided. For the OP's case, write up the problems as detailed as can be. Definitely provide a phone number as Glock has typically called me to further discuss any issues once the gun was received and the Armorer is actually working with the gun.

Further Advice. I typically use FEDEX and I don't buy additional insurance; and although FEDEX needs you to ship using a one-day service, I believe FEDEX has three one-day services and I use the less expensive afternoon delivery, all to save money. The last time I shipped I think the price was ~$55.

Other. Looking at the video, it seems to me the slide-lock temporarily gets stuck in the down position before the slide comes off. Perhaps there's a burr of some sort either on the frame or the slide-lock. The OP bending the slide-lock spring a bit to put more tension on the slide-lock may or may not cure the problem, but that should also be disclosed in the warranty-form write-up.

If you want to reference a video or an internet forum thread or even include the video on some type of media, like a USB drive, perhaps that might help, but I've never tried doing so.

If you want to call to ask any questions or confirm anything before just shipping your Glock to them, just call them during their normal business hours M-F (closed on typical holidays). Although Glock has some stated timeframe of a few weeks, my experience was Glock will get the gun back to the owner in ~a week. They will usually rebuild the gun with any of the latest parts versions, if needed or even if not needed, including the mags, and ship the gun back with no additional charges for parts or return shipping. In this case I didn't see anything which would cause Glock to determine the owner/user caused any damage or broke anything, which would be a cause for Glock to want to charge for anything else. However, the warranty-form does ask for charge card info should you want to provide that just-in-case or request additional services (e.g. night sight installation). Remove any parts you wish to keep and ship the gun back with old parts if you have such issues (e.g. replace that aftermarket connector with a stock one as Glock will definitely replace an aftermarket connector with a stock one, but the aftermarket connector may get thrown out or lost).

Note Glock's caveat regarding not being able to ship back standard-capacity mags if your return address is in a state limiting mag capacities.

[C.W. Clark]

If an owner decides to send in a Glock for repair, there's a warranty form found on this weblink:

https://us.glock.com/en/downloadable-materials

Fill out the form and send your Glock using the instructions provided. For the OP's case, write up the problems as detailed as can be. Definitely provide a phone number as Glock has typically called me to further discuss any issues once the gun was received and the Armorer is actually working with the gun.

Further Advice. I typically use FEDEX and I don't buy additional insurance; and although FEDEX needs you to ship using a one-day service, I believe FEDEX has three one-day services and I use the less expensive afternoon delivery, all to save money. The last time I shipped I think the price was ~$55.

Other. Looking at the video, it seems to me the slide-lock temporarily gets stuck in the down position before the slide comes off. Perhaps there's a burr of some sort either on the frame or the slide-lock. The OP bending the slide-lock spring a bit to put more tension on the slide-lock may or may not cure the problem, but that should also be disclosed in the warranty-form write-up.

If you want to reference a video or an internet forum thread or even include the video on some type of media, like a USB drive, perhaps that might help, but I've never tried doing so.

If you want to call to ask any questions or confirm anything before just shipping your Glock to them, just call them during their normal business hours M-F (closed on typical holidays). Although Glock has some stated timeframe of a few weeks, my experience was Glock will get the gun back to the owner in ~a week. They will usually rebuild the gun with any of the latest parts versions, if needed or even if not needed, including the mags, and ship the gun back with no additional charges for parts or return shipping. In this case I didn't see anything which would cause Glock to determine the owner/user caused any damage or broke anything, which would be a cause for Glock to want to charge for anything else. However, the warranty-form does ask for charge card info should you want to provide that just-in-case or request additional services (e.g. night sight installation). Remove any parts you wish to keep and ship the gun back with old parts if you have such issues (e.g. replace that aftermarket connector with a stock one as Glock will definitely replace an aftermarket connector with a stock one, but the aftermarket connector may get thrown out or lost).

Note Glock's caveat regarding not being able to ship back standard-capacity mags if your return address is in a state limiting mag capacities.


Thanks for the informative write up detailing the steps/process I'll need to take should I decide to go that route. I'll be getting the parts kit today at some point so I should have a better idea of if I'll need to send it back. Everything is stock on the pistol except for the sights so I should be good to go.

I'll keep you guys updated. Also, the video I uploaded was accidentally taken down. Below is a link to the video again should someone else stumble across the forum and have any questions or insight.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UeUQ6nXyi_Y

[C.W. Clark]

I took my pistol to AIM Surplus this afternoon to have a gentleman who works there and I've known for some time take a look at it. We replaced the internals of the frame and there was wear on the back side of the cruciform as well as on the firing pin lug where the two meet. He said that is what was causing my trigger to slip/not reset.

He said by looking below the slide cover plate he could see around 50% of my cruciform underneath the lug and that they should be flush or you should barely see any of the cruciform. After fixing it you can still see a sliver but not much.

My slide lock spring was worn and had worked itself a bit out of being properly seated and was flush with its channel rather than below or all the way down in the channel. Looking at my slide lock there was also marring and there was marring on my barrel lug too.

I have between 10-15K rounds through the pistol and he said he'd never seen a pistol with a round count that low look the way it did. I told him I dry fire a crazy amount and that must be what caused all of the wear to the cruciform and firing pin lug.

I really appreciate all of the help. Let me know if you guys have any questions or comments. Also, I learned a lot about the way Glocks functioned and if there's any knowledge you guys want to drop it would be much appreciated.