Malkoff E2HT Light Saber

[NH Shooter]

That's what it should be called, but officially it is sold as the E2 Hyper Throw (https://malkoffdevices.com/collections/surefire-drop-ins-for-e1-e2-and-scout-lights/products/e2-super-throw-scout-m600-2cr123-high-output-head), a head designed to fit on E-series bodies and Scout 600 WMLs.

I updated the light below with this head, shown with a Bodyguard v.2 head which looks exactly the same;

https://i.ibb.co/jykRv9s/edc-12.jpg


The E2HT is rated at only 500 lumens but at 35,000 lux, compared to the Bodyguard at 1,000 lumens and about 12,000 lux. What this means is that the lumens of the E2HT are more tightly focused into brighter hot spot, but at the cost of a spill brightness. Here are a series of beam shots (by others) posted online comparing the Bodyguard to the E2HT (the first in each pair is the Bodyguard);

https://i.ibb.co/qWpsdQM/E2HT-1.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/CW6F878/E2HT-2.jpg



https://i.ibb.co/C86CKN7/E2HT-3.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/phLVTdJ/E2HT-4.jpg



https://i.ibb.co/MfSg733/E2HT-5.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/nCFwFKK/E2HT-6.jpg


So far I am very impressed with the capability of the E2HT in the role of an EDC fight light. It is wickedly bright - anyone with dark-adapted vision within 20 - 30 feet who takes a direct hit to the eyeballs is going to have their OODA loop seriously reset. The only light in my collection that is brighter is the Hound Dog Super, which is physically a much larger light.

As I have shown before, I carry this light in a Kytex Gear horizontal holster designed for the SF 6P;

https://i.ibb.co/drjd4nN/edc-13.jpg


"Light Saber" seems a fitting description.

[NH Shooter]

In case anyone is interested, here is a suggested build list.

Note - while I purchased the E2HT head directly from Malkoff, I sourced the Surefire body from ebay and the Surefire Tactician (https://www.surefire.com/e2t-mv-tactician-led-flashlight.html)* tailcap (great find!) from the M4C Equipment Exchange listings. There seems to be a steady listing of SF E-series bodies and tailcaps on ebay.

*FYI, the SF Tactican "MaxVision Beam" is very similar to the Malkoff Bodyguard

The following critical "fight-light" features are considered;


Blinding output - the Malkoff E2HT head certainly fits the bill for this
Momentary operation - the classic Surefire "twisty" operation is truly ideal for this application; push the tailcap switch for momentary-only operation, twist the tailcap tight to the body for constant-on. No worries of accidently clicking it constant-on when you may be relying on gross motor skills only.
Good ergonomics - a knurled body long enough to get all fingers on the light
Ease of EDC - if it isn't convenient and comfortable enough to have with you all the time, it won't do much good sitting at home in a time of need
Reasonable runtime - this build will operate for 45 to 60 minutes on a commonly-available Li-ion rechargeable cell
No extraneous BS features - nothing that is not needed to add complexity or failure points


The Components


Malkoff E2HT head (https://malkoffdevices.com/collections/surefire-drop-ins-for-e1-e2-and-scout-lights/products/e2-super-throw-scout-m600-2cr123-high-output-head)
Lumens Factory E Series 2 Cell Flashlight Body (https://www.lumensfactory.com/en/product_detail.php?pid=398) - this is a good quality clone of the Surefire body
Lumens Factory E Series Z52 Tailcap (https://www.lumensfactory.com/en/product_detail.php?pid=345) - be sure to select the "momentary twisty" selection from the drop-down menu
Lumens Factory 2-Way Long Clip (https://www.lumensfactory.com/en/product_detail.php?pid=412) - allows for clipped, deep pocket carry or retention in the optional Kytex Gear carrier below. Also fits Surefire E-series bodies.
16650 Li-ion cell (https://www.illumn.com/batteries-chargers-and-powerpax-carriers/batteries/16650-keeppower-2500mah-sanyo-ur16650zta-protected-button-top.html) and charger (https://www.illumn.com/batteries-chargers-and-powerpax-carriers/chargers/xtar-vc2s-li-ion-ni-mh-usb-charger.html) if needed


Optional

Kytex Gear Horizontal Surefire Carrier (http://www.kytexgear.com/products-page/surefire-carriers/horizontal-surefire-carrier/) - this is how I carry mine at the 11 o'clock position on my belt. Very comfortable and readily accessible.

The total cost to build this light is about $200, add another $25 or so if you need to buy the 16650 cell and a charger, another $20 for the carrier. No doubt this is a quality build made of easily available parts that will fill its intended role superbly.

FWIW, I have ordered from Lumens Factory (Hong Kong) multiple times and have been pleased with both their service and quality of product. The parts listed above can be purchased with confidence.

If you have any questions post 'em below!

[Tokarev]

Malkoff sells a threaded collar that allows for the installation of one of these heads on an old Millennium light body. That is what I did.

I already had the Millennium light, rifle mount, tape switch etc and was happy with the setup. This light had previously been updated with one of Gene's LED lamp assemblies. It worked okay. Was certainly brighter than it had been with the incandescent lamp but it was heavy. The old head was also pretty bulky and had a good bit of heft to it.

Changing over to the E2HT head couldn't have been easier. It was literally a matter of unscrewing the old Millennium head assembly and replacing it with the adapter collar and the new light head.

The new hybrid light now throws with the best of them. Nothing else needed changed. Same tape switch, dual switch tail cap, etc. Granted the Millennium body is a little bulkier than a new Scout body but the weight isn't that much different. Overall, I think it is a cost effective way to get a modern light without throwing away an otherwise functional setup.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190420/9bf4796671cfb7481496410bb037b869.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190420/b529b42de9907a405f1955acfa7d5338.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190420/dc4450c5176ee9e6e7a6f585ddbdd394.jpg



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[Tokarev]

Here's the threaded collar:

https://malkoffdevices.com/collections/surefire-drop-ins-for-e1-e2-and-scout-lights/products/malkoff-md90-adapter-for-surefire-mh90-body

[NH Shooter]

Tokarev, nice conversion!

The E2HT was designed and intended for WML use. Using it for a handheld application may seem a bit unusual due to its not-for-general-use beam pattern, but for the intended role being discussed it works extraordinarily well.

[Tackleberry40sw]

NH Shooter, do you know if the head is compatible with 18650 batteries and if there are bodies that will interface with the head that accommodate the 18650 batteries?

[NH Shooter]

NH Shooter, do you know if the head is compatible with 18650 batteries and if there are bodies that will interface with the head that accommodate the 18650 batteries?

Yes!

Malkoff;

https://malkoffdevices.com/collections/parts-and-miscellaneous-items/products/malkoff-18650-to-e-series-body?variant=21907969736784

or,

Oveready body;

https://www.oveready.com/flashlight/e70-body-ha-black/

Any Surefire P-series tailcap such as this Z41 twisty;

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Surefire-Z41-Black-Twisty-TailCap-for-6P-9P-C2-C3/303469973424

With this set up the anodizing would need to e removed from the head threads on the body (not difficult to do)

[Tackleberry40sw]

Yes!

Malkoff;

https://malkoffdevices.com/collections/parts-and-miscellaneous-items/products/malkoff-18650-to-e-series-body?variant=21907969736784

or,

Oveready body;

https://www.oveready.com/flashlight/e70-body-ha-black/

Any Surefire P-series tailcap such as this Z41 twisty;

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Surefire-Z41-Black-Twisty-TailCap-for-6P-9P-C2-C3/303469973424

With this set up the anodizing would need to e removed from the head threads on the body (not difficult to do)

Thank you. More ways for me to spend money the wife can yell at me about. 😈

[NH Shooter]

I've been carrying this light every day since my OP and have the following observations to share;

1. At 3.8 ounces and 5-1/8 inches AOL, it rides unnoticed in the Kytex horizontal holster on my belt at the 11 o'clock position. It meets my ease-of-carry and ease-of-accessibility EDC requirements with flying colors.

2. The momentary-only twisty tailcap is perfect for this application. I installed an O-ring between the tailcap and body to prevent the tailcap from inadvertently turning and changing the amount of travel required to activate the light.

3. The distance this tightly-focused beam of light can illuminate on object is impressive. It can provide enough illumination to reveal the detail of an object (or what a potential assailant is holding in their hands) to at least 50 (measured) yards.

4. Using the mirror test, I find this 500-lumen/35,000-candela light is wickedly blinding. I have little doubt that at typical self-defense distances, it would be brutal to the recipient and provide a very effective photonic barrier.

5. The "all the lumens" mantra should actually read "all the candela" as candela is the true measure of brightness, not lumens (see second video below).

Here are my two EDC lights: the lower 200-lumen light rides in the bottom of my pocket and is used for general illumination purposes. The Lego at the top is the subject of this thread, this photo showing the design of the Surefire Tactician (twisty) tailcap - I find the semi-shrouded design and momentary-only operation perfect for this application;

https://i.ibb.co/52TpBNV/edc-15.jpg



With that, a few videos of interest;


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XQ5bemDJ_ug&feature=emb_logo



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JPB8COBBxHE&feature=emb_logo

[NH Shooter]

Lumens Factory now offers a clone (https://www.ebay.com/itm/E-Series-E2T-McClicky-Tailcap-Surefire-E1-E1e-E2-E2e-E2D-E2L-L4-HA3-Black/223897480533) of the Surefire Tactician tailcap that uses a genuine McClicky switch. I purchased one and after a few mods found it to be a MUCH better solution than the SF twisty.

The main issue with SF twisty tailcaps is that the electrical contact when pressing the switch can become a bit iffy. I believe this may have to do with arcing on high current draw heads and the slow degradation of the contact. The SF Tactician tailcap I purchased required disassembly and cleaning of the contact areas with a diamond hone, but still was not 100% after the work.

The McClicky switch is pretty much an industry standard and has proven itself to be extremely reliable and capable of handling the higher current draw that many lights impose on the cells and switches. The only downside to the McClicky for this application is that it is a "forward click" switch and can be inadvertently clicked into constant-on operation. For this light and the way it's used, constant-on operation is not needed and the McClicky switch can be "de-clicked" with a simple mod to make it momentary-only.

I also changed the switch boot to a silicone version (https://darksucks.com/collections/modding-components/products/premium-tailcap-boot) that has an internal nub that can be fitted to the switch to adjust the amount of press travel required to activate the light. The end result shown below is truly outstanding: a smooth, tactile feel with a consistent press and flicker-free operation. The semi-shrouded design of this tailcap and integral lanyard loop are IMO perfect for this application.

If anyone has any questions about the mods to the tailcap, let me know.



https://i.ibb.co/whXZvBg/lightsaber-1.jpg


https://i.ibb.co/0Qp8DJ5/lightsaber-2.jpg

[Pepper]

Lumens Factory now offers a clone (https://www.ebay.com/itm/E-Series-E2T-McClicky-Tailcap-Surefire-E1-E1e-E2-E2e-E2D-E2L-L4-HA3-Black/223897480533) of the Surefire Tactician tailcap that uses a genuine McClicky switch. I purchased one and after a few mods found it to be a MUCH better solution than the SF twisty.

The main issue with SF twisty tailcaps is that the electrical contact when pressing the switch can become a bit iffy. I believe this may have to do with arcing on high current draw heads and the slow degradation of the contact. The SF Tactician tailcap I purchased required disassembly and cleaning of the contact areas with a diamond hone, but still was not 100% after the work.

The McClicky switch is pretty much an industry standard and has proven itself to be extremely reliable and capable of handling the higher current draw that many lights impose on the cells and switches. The only downside to the McClicky for this application is that it is a "forward click" switch and can be inadvertently clicked into constant-on operation. For this light and the way it's used, constant-on operation is not needed and the McClicky switch can be "de-clicked" with a simple mod to make it momentary-only.

I also changed the switch boot to a silicone version (https://darksucks.com/collections/modding-components/products/premium-tailcap-boot) that has an internal nub that can be fitted to the switch to adjust the amount of press travel required to activate the light. The end result shown below is truly outstanding: a smooth, tactile feel with a consistent press and flicker-free operation. The semi-shrouded design of this tailcap and integral lanyard loop are IMO perfect for this application.

If anyone has any questions about the mods to the tailcap, let me know.

Can you please explain how you did the mods? I'm heading down the same road with my Tactician.

[awp_101]

I keep repeating "I don't need another rabbit hole to go down I don't need another rabbit hole to go down I don't need another rabbit hole to go down" but it's not working...

[NH Shooter]

Can you please explain how you did the mods? I'm heading down the same road with my Tactician.

I will. There is only one tutorial I am aware of and it's a bit confusing and the photos were lost. I'll create a separate thread today with photos on how to do the McClicky momentary-only conversion.

Bear in mind you will still need the Lumens Factory tailcap, I do not believe the SF Tactician tailcap can be converted to a McClicky.

[JJN]

For those of you who have gone down this rabbit hole, how do you feel about Lumens Factory products? Which Lumens Factory would I be looking for along these lines?
Thanks,
Jon

[NH Shooter]

Can you please explain how you did the mods? I'm heading down the same road with my Tactician.

The McClicky switch is held in the Lumens Factory tailcap by the retaining ring, which screws into the tailcap. You can use a pair of needle nose pliers to engage the two notches in the retaining ring to remove it. I place the tailcap in a vise with a set of Delrin v-block inserts to gently hold the tailcap. I also place a small piece of tape on the tips of the pliers to help avoid marring the finish on the ring.

Once the ring is removed, the switch boot and McClicky switch pull straight out. To modify the McClicky to momentary-only operation, see this tutorial (https://pistol-forum.com/showthread.php?40984-Modifying-the-McClicky-for-Momentary-only-Operation).

Once the switch is modified, reassemble into the tailcap. You can also use this opportunity to change the switch boot as I did.

[NH Shooter]

For those of you who have gone down this rabbit hole, how do you feel about Lumens Factory products? Which Lumens Factory would I be looking for along these lines?

Here is the link to the Lumens Factory site - https://www.lumensfactory.com/en/index.php

Here is the link to the tailcap being discussed - https://www.lumensfactory.com/en/product_detail.php?pid=501

The tailcap uses a McClicky switch, which is well known for its reliability and used by many very reputable makers of flashlights.

Lumens Factory offers a selection of Surefire E-series "clone" parts. For the most part I prefer using genuine Surefire components, such as the Lumamax body I used with this light. I absolutely love the design of the Tactician tailcap and very much like the operation of the Surefire "twisty" tailcaps. That said, all of the SF twisties I own show some resistance through the electrical connection that results in reduced or fluctuating output. It's most noticeable with high output lights and seems to get worse with use.

The Tactician twisty I purchased used was basically non-functional when it arrived, would not activate the light. But I LOVE the design of the tailcap so I spent the time taking it apart (a semi-destructive process) and was able to make it functional again. But it still displayed fluctuating output if I didn't really press the switch hard.

A few weeks later Lumens Factory release their Tactician tailcap clone with a McClicky, and I immediately ordered one. As expected the McClicky switch works perfectly and the tailcap machining and anodizing is quite good. Bottom line is that this Tactician tailcap "clone" delivers the performance and reliability I wish the original Surefire tailcap would have.

I have also used the Lumens Factory 2-way Long Clip (https://www.lumensfactory.com/en/product_detail.php?pid=412) and found it to be excellent (I have purchased several). Though I have not tried one myself, I hear the E-series bodies are very good as well though I usually just pick up SF E-bodies on ebay. Beyond those pieces I cannot comment on the other products they offer.

[SoCalDep]

I am so excited to find this thread and don’t know how I didn’t see it earlier!

I’m a Surefire E-series and Malkoff fan - and I have a poor unused LX2 sitting around that needs this bad!

I have an old e2e with a Malkoff head that I like, and I’m a fan of my Tactician but the tailcap has some issues like you describe.

This thread just cost me money.

[farscott]

That said, all of the SF twisties I own show some resistance through the electrical connection that results in reduced or fluctuating output. It's most noticeable with high output lights and seems to get worse with use.

The Tactician twisty I purchased used was basically non-functional when it arrived, would not activate the light. But I LOVE the design of the tailcap so I spent the time taking it apart (a semi-destructive process) and was able to make it functional again. But it still displayed fluctuating output if I didn't really press the switch hard.

I suspect the issue is the arc created when the switch contacts open and close. This is an issue with DC switching, especially when the contacts open, as the arc sustains until the gap is sufficient to require more voltage than the battery and/or load can supply. The breakdown field strength of air is approximately 3000V/mm, and it varies with humidity, altitude, and temperature. The exact value is not important for the discussion, but the fact that current flows via the electric arc is important. Because the voltage is always the same polarity, the arcing can cause material transfer from one contact to the other. The classic failure mode is a spike on one contact and a crater in the other, and it is possible for the contacts to mechanically lock closed. It is also important to note that the crater/spike geometry forces the current through a smaller path, increasing resistance and decreasing the current through the LED -- making it dimmer. The arcing also creates carbon deposits, which act as insulators and lower the current.

Pressing the switch hard allows more contact area, increasing the current. But the switch is on its last legs unless the contacts are reshaped. More current allows more material transfer.

There are some solutions, notably with selection of contact material. Fine-grain silver (AgNi0.15) is somewhat resistant to the material transfer issue, and other contact materials alloyed with silver, notably Cadmium (no longer used due to toxicity concerns), offers improved resistance to material transfer. This is a well-known issue in switching and contacts, and good providers have minimized it at very little incremental cost.

[Mike C]

NH Shooter, I just want to say thanks again for this thread and some of the others. I'm still really enjoying the V1 heads since they were brighter than the V2's in the single cell RCR config. This looks like a great setup. Out of curiosity have you used the Vital Gear FB2 body in a lego config with Malkoff head? Thanks!

[NH Shooter]

Out of curiosity have you used the Vital Gear FB2 body in a lego config with Malkoff head?

I have not.

[Tokarev]

Malkoff has a couple new heads.

https://malkoffdevices.com/products/malkoff-e2xtd-3-4-4-2-volts?utm_campaign=newsletter-featured_products-5fd558d806f5443090729730b04a60e8&utm_medium=email&utm_source=seguno

https://malkoffdevices.com/products/malkoff-e2xt-3-4-6-volts?utm_campaign=newsletter-featured_products-5fd558d806f5443090729730b04a60e8&utm_medium=email&utm_source=seguno

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[NH Shooter]

Malkoff has a couple new heads.

https://malkoffdevices.com/products/malkoff-e2xtd-3-4-4-2-volts?utm_campaign=newsletter-featured_products-5fd558d806f5443090729730b04a60e8&utm_medium=email&utm_source=seguno

https://malkoffdevices.com/products/malkoff-e2xt-3-4-6-volts?utm_campaign=newsletter-featured_products-5fd558d806f5443090729730b04a60e8&utm_medium=email&utm_source=seguno

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Outstanding!

Gene held his cards tight-to-the-vest but I suspected he was going to release a head that will compete toe-to-toe with the Modlite OKW.

[joshs]

The regulated one seems more practical, but I snagged a direct drive because all the lux.

[NH Shooter]

The regulated one seems more practical, but I snagged a direct drive because all the lux.

Likewise. :-)

The regulated model IMO is not enough of a step-up over the E2HT for my use, which is more compact and thus easier to EDC (especially in the horizontal belt carrier I like using). That said, either of these two new heads would be awesome for use with an Arisaka body and mount for WML applications.

The direct drive model has the identical specs of the Modlite OKW, which I'm hearing is a "game changer" in certain LE applications. I'll be replacing the E2HT head with this new E2XTD head and carry it clipped in my front pocket. I prefer the horizontal belt carrier for EDC, but for this much of an upgrade in output I'll accept that sacrifice.

It looks like only about 10 - 15 minutes of runtime on the 16650 cell but for the intended use (and the momentary-only conversion of the tailcap switch), that is fine. I may need to try the MDC 18650 body (https://malkoffdevices.com/collections/parts-and-miscellaneous-items/products/malkoff-18650-to-e-series-body?variant=21907967737936) with an IMR 18650 cell, which would provide greater runtime.

I'll be posting pics of my upgraded "light saber" next week!

[Tokarev]

I assume the Modlite Mod Buttom will work with the new high output head. What else will work for a tape switch?

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[NH Shooter]

I assume the Modlite Mod Buttom will work with the new high output head. What else will work for a tape switch?

McClicky will handle the direct-drive head (they handle 5+ amps), so any of the Malkoff MDC bodies (like the 16650 and 18650 versions) will be fine. Any tailcap with a McClicky conversion will be fine.

Not sure how the SF tailcaps or tape switches will hold up to the direct-drive head, but I suspect they would be fine with the regulated output 500 lumen/55,000 candela version (https://malkoffdevices.com/collections/surefire-drop-ins-for-e1-e2-and-scout-lights/products/malkoff-e2xt-3-4-6-volts).

[Tokarev]

The regulated head is most attractive to me because it should require nothing other than the head itself. No need for a larger diameter body or different tape switch. It should be plug and play to the light I already have.

I have one ordered and will post some pics of the difference in throw between the HT and XT when available.

I assume the quality and durability is there for rifle use. The only reason I can see to buy a Modlite OKW would be to save rail space buy using a 300 length body. That isn't a big concern on this particular rifle.

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[NH Shooter]

I assume the quality and durability is there for rifle use.

Oh hell yeah. Malkoff stuff is built like hammers.


The only reason I can see to buy a Modlite OKW would be to save rail space buy using a 300 length body.

Agreed, but I'd still roll with the 18650 body as runtime on an 18350 1200mAh cell will be mighty short.

Maybe Modlite will become more realistic with their pricing too now that you can buy the Malkoff E2XTD head and MDC 18650 body together for $225.00 with a commonly-available 20% coupon. The Modlite goes for $350 and has exactly zero advantages over the Malkoff alternative other than the two cells and charger it comes with, which can be purchased from illumn.com for $35. In fact, a pocket clip is a $15 option on the Modlite, the Malkoff comes with an excellent clip attached directly to the body.

[Tokarev]

Agreed, but I'd still roll with the 18650 body as runtime on an 18350 1200mAh cell will be mighty short.

Arisaka Defense says 35 minutes with the OKW head and 18350 battery.



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[NH Shooter]

Arisaka Defense says 35 minutes with the OKW head and 18350 battery.

Field reports indicate 45 minutes of useful output (to noticeable dimming) of the OKW on an 18650 3500mAh cell. The highest capacity 18350 available is 1200mAh, which will provide about 15 minutes of useable runtime at best. For WML applications, that might be OK - I don't think the OKW or E2XTD are intended for Search & Rescue use.

The runtime most manufacturers state is based on full to 10% output. Noticeable dimming occurs around 50%.

[Tokarev]

Field reports indicate 45 minutes of useful output (to noticeable dimming) of the OKW on an 18650 3500mAh cell. The highest capacity 18350 available is 1200mAh, which will provide about 15 minutes of useable runtime at best. For WML applications, that might be OK - I don't think the OKW or E2XTD are intended for Search & Rescue use.

The runtime most manufacturers state is based on full to 10% output. Noticeable dimming occurs around 50%.My E2HT runs awhile on a Keepower 16650 2500mah. I haven't run it on a timer from full to dead but I bet it is at least an hour. If the XT is close in run time it should be a great compromise between output and longevity.

I don't know how long a battery needs to last on a carbine but I'd say the longer the better. An example would be holding someone at gunpoint for an extended period awaiting backup after searching for the same suspect.

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[NH Shooter]

New E2XTD head installed. Will get a better look tonight, but inside on a wall it is easily twice as bright as the E2 Hyper Throw;

https://i.ibb.co/j3s0JS7/e2xtd-1.jpg

[Tokarev]

My E2XT head arrived today.

A bit of comparative data:

Weight:

Sure M951 light with Malkoff adapter and E2HT head is .24 lbs

Same body and threaded adapter with XT head is .30 lbs

Add .06 to the above for batteries.

Pics:

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200304/1cf71f76694a02c2391dc0cd9b600023.jpg

The XT is a little longer and bigger in diameter which I think actually fits the older Surefire body quite well.


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https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200304/2e98dd2439a37512483371a66f9b70ef.jpg


https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200304/7a960f3b27fa67cdd503149f85f64fe5.jpg

[Tokarev]

New E2XTD head installed. Will get a better look tonight, but inside on a wall it is easily twice as bright as the E2 Hyper Throw;

https://i.ibb.co/j3s0JS7/e2xtd-1.jpgOutput of my XT vs HT are pretty close judging by what I'm seeing against the bedroom wall. The XT's beam is tighter though.



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[NH Shooter]

The difference between the E2XTD's 70,000 lux and the E2HT's 35,000 lux is very apparent outdoors on a dark road. The spill is also slightly brighter. That said, the E2HT at 35,000 lux is very formidable considering its size and is still perfect for the application.

If one is willing to spend about 50% more for the larger, more powerful E2XTD head, I very much doubt they'd be disappointed. The specs match the Modlite OKW and is significantly less expensive.

BTW, that old SF looks great with the E2XT head!

[Tokarev]

BTW, that old SF looks great with the E2XT head!


Yes. The color difference between the head and body is really the only obvious sign that the two parts don't belong together.

Running the light now with two fresh Lifepo4 rechargeable batteries. About 45 minutes in.

Nothing scientific and it is still daylight. But full brightness seemed to taper off at about half an hour. The light is still probably quite useful at current output. I'll update once I've run this set of batteries dead.

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[Tokarev]

Creeping up on an hour and a half. The light's still running but ain't putting out anything really useful.

30-45 minutes is probably quite useful. 45-60 still useful depending on task at hand. 60+ still working but probably not much longer...


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[Tokarev]

Called it quits at 2 hours. The light was still working although probably not much good for shooting. It was still bright enough to illuminate a walking path but that is probably about it.

Pretty good run time and likely a nice balance between raw output and battery life.

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[NH Shooter]

The direct drive model pulls down a 16650 2500mAh cell pretty quickly. I haven't timed it but it's obvious the head is intended for maximum output, not long run time.

For a light with great ergonomics that can be easily every-day-carried clipped inside a pants pocket, this Lego is amazing. It is the equal to the much larger Hound Dog Super in throw/reach (I compared them side-by-side) with enough spill to maintain SA of the immediate surroundings.

No doubt these are very specialized products intended for specific applications, but for WML or "fight light" use I think Malkoff has hit a home run with these new heads!

[javemtr]

..., but for WML or "fight light" use I think Malkoff has hit a home run with these new heads!
I think Gene Malkoff needs a bigger marketing department just to give him more exposure. All I see online is Modlite this, Modlite that. You ain't cool if you don't have the new Modlite weapon light...

[NH Shooter]

I think Gene Malkoff needs a bigger marketing department just to give him more exposure.

I think that may be by design. They are a small, family-owned company and are frequently out of stock on multiple items. The first batch of their new E2XTD heads (which are the equivalent of the Modlite OKW) sold out in 24 hours. I have a feeling they like the size of their business as it is and therefore do not want to (or have to) market any more than their own website, user forum postings and word of mouth.

[Clusterfrack]

How does the E2XTD compare with the M61HOT with an 18650?

[Tokarev]

I think Gene Malkoff needs a bigger marketing department just to give him more exposure. All I see online is Modlite this, Modlite that. You ain't cool if you don't have the new Modlite weapon light...His heads are available through Arisaka Defense both as parts and as complete lights with 300 or 600 length bodies.

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[NH Shooter]

How does the E2XTD compare with the M61HOT with an 18650?

M61HOT and M91T are the same heads set up to run on different voltage ranges. Both are approximately 750 lumens/20,000 lux.

The E2XTD can only be run on a 16650 or 18650 cell and produces 650 lumens/70,000 lux. The E2XT can be run on a pair of CR123 batteries, but has slightly reduced output (500 lumens/55,000 lux).

Comparing my M91T to the E2XTD, the M91T has a much broader (but less intense) hot spot and brighter spill. It covers a larger swath but with less than 1/3 the lux, is not nearly as bright and does not reach out as far. For general use I find the M91T beam more useful.

The E2XTD has a smaller, highly-focused hot spot that is 3x brighter. Where the M91T can reach down a dark road a bit, the E2XTD reaches way down the road. The spill is as wide as the M91T just not as bright. That said, the spill is still bright enough to maintain SA of the immediate surroundings and to see where I'm stepping.

No doubt the E2XT and E2XTD heads are specialized illumination tools. For WML use on a LPVO-equipped rifle they are outstanding. For use as a "light saber" as discussed in this thread, a superb choice. For finding the keys dropped under the car seat, not so much.

FWIW, I carry my upgraded "light saber" clipped to the inside of my front-left pocket, and carry a smaller Malkoff for general use. I find it no inconvenience at all to carry two lights, and the smaller light on the bottom (Malkoff M61L - 200 lumens, maybe 4,000 lux) gets plenty of use. Photo below before I updated the top light to the E2XTD;

https://i.ibb.co/52TpBNV/edc-15.jpg


In conclusion, the E2XTD is not for everyone, but if having a pocketable high-power pencil-beam spot light to see waaayyyy out there (or to blind the shit out of someone at close range) has appeal, it's an absolute hoot. It brings me grins and giggles every time I fire it up;

https://i.ibb.co/j3s0JS7/e2xtd-1.jpg

[Tokarev]

Comparison photos albeit a little blurry. The wall at the end of the street is about 140 yards away.

All four photos taken using a light powered by a Keeppower 16650 2500 mah battery.

First is a Malkoff E2HT bought a couple months back:

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200308/d9c2cdc35a97091458ca9d31323feb20.jpg

Then here's the E2XT head:

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200308/72e525d1ba654a5fb58c0a2ce433e36d.jpg

Here is a Surefire KE2A head. I don't remember the output. 500 lumens?

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200308/7f0aea55a494973e5abeef58dd608f0b.jpg

Finally here is a Streamlight Protac HL-X. I believe these lights are rated at 1,000 lumens.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200308/9c0ab0d18fdb302ce5ef2ee21f6d2459.jpg

[Tokarev]

Another attempt at comparing the E2HT and the 2XT.

The cellphone camera seems confused by both lights. Probably the best thing is to have someone focus a camera rather than me trying to aim the light with one hand and hold the phone and tap the screen with the other.

HT pics. First is the same street with a wall that's about 140 yards away. The other is a street with a house about 50 yards away.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200310/e953e23cfb1ad89df7308f31200f0f86.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200310/0b1a28f62bf25687c9514714ea2ffa64.jpg

XT. Same 140 yards and 50 yards. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200310/c43db64d6585bcb856ab0929beb0adde.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200310/6dcf62cd46053353184ed7e71942da4d.jpg

So, yeah, the XT is quite a bit tighter in beam pattern. I was quite pleased with the HT previously. Still am, actually. But the XT is probably the way to go for anyone wanting a light on a rifle that might get used outside. Ranch work for chasing critters, rural police work, etc.


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[J0hnny]

E2XTs are back in stock

[Navin Johnson]

If one of you has a edcl1-t or edcl2-t (surefire) to compare would be great to see or hear. Thanks.

[NH Shooter]

If one of you has a edcl1-t or edcl2-t (surefire) to compare would be great to see or hear. Thanks.

Comparatively speaking, typical general purpose beam with central hot spot (EDCL) vs. tight, bright hot spot with dim* spill (E2XT).

The EDCL2-T is rated at 1,200 lumens/25,000 candela (ramps down quickly from there for heat management), the E2XTD is rated at 650 lumens/70,000 candela.

*While the spill of the E2XTD is dim compared to a typical general purpose type of beam, it is more than bright enough for SA of the immediate surroundings. For the use being discussed in this thread, I find it is ideal.

[joshs]

Malkoff E2XTD on their 18650 e-series body. I thought this would be too narrow of a beam profile, but I actually find it very useful for anything that I can't use my key chain light to illuminate. It seems to get adequate runtime with the 18650. I need to check with Malkoff to see if it will work with a high drain unprotected 18650. Some direct drive lights are designed around the internal resistance of a protected cell (like the recommended Keeppowers). It would be interesting if it can get even slightly more performance off of a high drain cell.

58840

[NH Shooter]

Malkoff E2XTD on their 18650 e-series body. I thought this would be too narrow of a beam profile, but I actually find it very useful for anything that I can't use my key chain light to illuminate. It seems to get adequate runtime with the 18650. I need to check with Malkoff to see if it will work with a high drain unprotected 18650. Some direct drive lights are designed around the internal resistance of a protected cell (like the recommended Keeppowers). It would be interesting if it can get even slightly more performance off of a high drain cell.

58840

Nice!

To your question, I am now running the E2XTD head on an Oveready E35 body (https://www.oveready.com/flashlight/e35-body-ha-black/) with a ZRS insert (https://www.oveready.com/flashlight/torchlab-zerorez-shorty-z41-brass-insert-twisty-15mm/) in a SF Z41 tailcap, powered by a Keeppower IMR 18500 1100 mAh cell that is capable of supplying 10 amps. Output is noticeably higher with the ZRS and IMR cell vs. a McClicky switch and protected cell. Gets hot fast though, but I only use mine for short bursts.

https://i.ibb.co/jWCwXtQ/3PZ-3.jpg

[javemtr]

Are you using the 5mm battery extender as recommended by Oveready on their website for this body to provide optimal battery connectivity? Or is not necessary in your case because the spring on the Malkoff head is long enough?

[NH Shooter]

Are you using the 5mm battery extender as recommended by Oveready on their website for this body to provide optimal battery connectivity? Or is not necessary in your case because the spring on the Malkoff head is long enough?

No spacer needed the the longer 18500 protected cell, but needed with the shorter IMR cell.