What are the "best" pistol cleaning products?

[Rhino]

Very new to owing, so I am wondering what some of the "best" options are for cleaning/shooting oil products?
If I buy a new weapon, what lubricants should I put on it prior to firing it?
I currently have a Beretta 9mm, and looking to purchase a 45.

If you have a link to a prior thread or videos it would be appreciated.
Thanks!

[Nephrology]

It doesn't really matter in my experience.

All you need is some kind of bore solvent, some kind of lube and some kind of grease.

I like Hoppes #9 for bore solvent, Slip 2000 for lube, and whatever lithium grease I can get cheapest at AutoZone. YMMV

[LittleLebowski]

Non chlorinated brake cleaner (https://www.amazon.com/CRC-05084-BRAKLEEN-Brake-Cleaner-Non-Chlorinated-14/dp/B000BXKZUQ/ref=sr_1_5?crid=3VLBOXK4MQGLT&dchild=1&keywords=non+chlorinated+brake+cleaner&qid=1579891202&sprefix=Non+chlorina%2Caps%2C153&sr=8-5), avoid hitting night sights with it. Just hose out the pistol on the inside and the internal parts every thousand rounds or so and relube with the oil/grease of your choice.

[Nephrology]

Non chlorinated brake cleaner (https://www.amazon.com/CRC-05084-BRAKLEEN-Brake-Cleaner-Non-Chlorinated-14/dp/B000BXKZUQ/ref=sr_1_5?crid=3VLBOXK4MQGLT&dchild=1&keywords=non+chlorinated+brake+cleaner&qid=1579891202&sprefix=Non+chlorina%2Caps%2C153&sr=8-5), avoid hitting night sights with it. Just hose out the pistol on the inside and the internal parts every thousand rounds or so and relube with the oil/grease of your choice.

ooh yeah, I forgot about that. Makes cleaning handguns stupid easy.

[LittleLebowski]

ooh yeah, I forgot about that. Makes cleaning handguns stupid easy.

And ARs. And bolt guns. And gun bags soaked in gun oil.

[Alpha Sierra]

Very new to owing, so I am wondering what some of the "best" options are for cleaning/shooting oil products?
If I buy a new weapon, what lubricants should I put on it prior to firing it?
I currently have a Beretta 9mm, and looking to purchase a 45.

If you have a link to a prior thread or videos it would be appreciated.
Thanks!

There's no best.

You might want to review the owner's manual for whatever pistol you're talking about before making a decision.

+1 for non-chlorinated brake cleaner

[Nephrology]

And ARs. And bolt guns. And gun bags soaked in gun oil.

Reminds me i need to buy a couple more cans...

[SecondsCount]

The above mentioned items work well. MPro7 cleaner and Super Lube grease are my favorites.

I typically use an ultrasonic cleaner filled with a 25/75 Simple Green/Hot Water mixture. A little compressed air in all the cracks and crevices gets the residual liquid out, and a light application of lubricant keeps the guns running well. Keeping the gun lubricated is more important than keeping it clean.

Gloves are recommended when cleaning to keep chemicals and gunk off your hands.

[mtnbkr]

Fireclean. You can cook your fries in it too.

Chris

[William B.]

Aray is a certified lube guy and can probably speak about cleaning products as well.

I usually clean my firearms with baby wipes and lube with Slip 2000 or Weapon Shield.

[Medusa]

I haven’t done a search yet, but I’m interested in learning more about maybe using an ultrasonic cleaner. What kind is used, cleaning times, nuts and bolts of doing it, what can and can’t be cleaned in that manner, etc.

I usually stay away from brake cleaner but use hoppes, 725 degreaser, and slip2000 ewl and their grease.


The above mentioned items work well. MPro7 cleaner and Super Lube grease are my favorites.

I typically use an ultrasonic cleaner filled with a 25/75 Simple Green/Hot Water mixture. A little compressed air in all the cracks and crevices gets the residual liquid out, and a light application of lubricant keeps the guns running well. Keeping the gun lubricated is more important than keeping it clean.

Gloves are recommended when cleaning to keep chemicals and gunk off your hands.

[SecondsCount]

I haven’t done a search yet, but I’m interested in learning more about maybe using an ultrasonic cleaner. What kind is used, cleaning times, nuts and bolts of doing it, what can and can’t be cleaned in that manner, etc.

I usually stay away from brake cleaner but use hoppes, 725 degreaser, and slip2000 ewl and their grease.

I have this model ultrasonic cleaner from Harbor Freight (https://www.harborfreight.com/25-Liter-Ultrasonic-Cleaner-63256.html) Watch for their 20% off coupon in the mail.

Fill the ultrasonic tank halfway with the 25/75 mixture I mentioned earlier. Take off the slide and remove the barrel and recoil spring. Drop them in the solution and run for 3 or 4 minutes. Use an old toothbrush to scrub off any stubborn areas. Give it another couple minutes in the cleaner and then rinse parts with clean water. Blow them out with air and lube as necessary.

Frame cleaning can be as simple as hitting the frame internals with the toothbrush then wipe, or place the inverted frame into the ultrasonic for a few minutes and then wipe it and lube.

[vcdgrips]

NC Brake cleaner, Mobil 1 Synthetic for oil, HiTemp Lithium bearing grease for grease and rock on.

I have become fond of the yellow "Kirkland" brand microfiber towels sold at Costco and online. 36 count for under 20.00.

Having said that, presuming you were shooting jacketed bullets, you could probably wipe off your gun with a slightly damp paper towel, wipe the ramp/chamber and breech face with a bit more vigor, and generously lube the rails, barrel, link etc with virtually any oil to include cooking oil and wipe down with the same and be just fine.

[Medusa]

Thank you; and I did find the ultrasonic cleaner thread. I worry a little about stripping lube out of places it should be but can’t be gotten without a detail strip; but I could certainly give this a try. I definitely like the idea of it. It’s nice to see the expense isn’t crazy though I understand there are much spendier machines.

I’m pretty fair at cleaning the old fashioned way, having been taught long ago by some servicemembers who were my students and who also taught me to shoot, but I’m always interested in saving time since i shoot a lot these days.

[Maca]

Started using Ballistol recently. As good as anything, or everything, I’ve used before.

I like the simplicity of it.

[Irelander]

I know that I should probably know this, but what areas on a pistol need grease?

[JAH 3rd]

Hoppes #9 for the barrel. CLP, applied to a patch, for the slide inside and out and frame interior. I just wipe down the exterior frame of polymer firearms with a dry rag. For lube either Lucas Extreme Duty Oil or FP-10 Lubricant Elite. Always consult owner's manual if your firearm has a protective coating such as S&W titanium cylinder. The manual may have specific do's and don'ts when cleaning. Lotta good info already in this thread!

[paherne]

Stuff that is non-toxic. Slip 2000 products and MPro 7 will allow you to destroy your liver with bourbon, as God intended.

[Darth_Uno]

Clean everything with Breakfree CLP. Lube with grease if it slides, oil if it rotates. Brand doesn't matter. It really doesn't.

I just clean all rifle and pistol barrels with Boresnakes. If it hurts accuracy by not being cleaned better, I'm not good enough to tell the difference.

[SecondsCount]

Thank you; and I did find the ultrasonic cleaner thread. I worry a little about stripping lube out of places it should be but can’t be gotten without a detail strip; but I could certainly give this a try.
...

If you are worried about it, just spray that area down with a little Breakfree and let the excess evaporate.

[Alpha Sierra]

And ARs. And bolt guns. And gun bags soaked in gun oil.

It's like Franks' Red Hot

I put that shit on everything

[Alpha Sierra]

I know that I should probably know this, but what areas on a pistol need grease?

The sear and the slide rails

[rd62]

Having said that, presuming you were shooting jacketed bullets, you could probably wipe off your gun with a slightly damp paper towel, wipe the ramp/chamber and breech face with a bit more vigor, and generously lube the rails, barrel, link etc with virtually any oil to include cooking oil and wipe down with the same and be just fine.

This is pretty much my cleaning routine...

[RJ]

Let's see. I shoot a match once a month, or the square range. I shoot Handguns only; Glocks and a Ruger LCR as a BUG. Generally clean after each session, unless it's less than a hundred rounds. For a long class with 600-700 rounds a day, that night, no matter how tired I am. I'm pretty fastidious about my carry gun.

CLP is a mix of Hoppe's or whatever free sample I picked up lately. Lube is Slip 2000 EWL. Sometimes Mobil 1 in a pinch lol. Maybe a teeny bit of grease on the connector to trigger bar. I do have a couple small 2oz needle oiler bottles I ordered that are pretty handy. Procedure is per manual.

I have a motley collection of old towels cast off from SWMBO, a cleaning rod, a brass jag, a patch holder, set of Tipton brushes and picks, and a buncha 2x2 cotton squares I buy by the bag at Amazon. I like the picks with a cotton square wrapped around, to pick out the rails and ejector. (I don't have much BTF on my Glocks but prefer it clean.)

Every once in a while I will take the Glocks completely apart, blow the frame out with non-chlorinated brake cleaner over a 5 gal bucket, clean the innards, then put it all back together, lube and assemble. But usually just a basic field strip and clean, normally, which takes five minutes at the most.

[mmc45414]

I like Hoppes #9 for bore solvent
I tried to get my wife to dab a little behind her ears.
Shit, wait, this is a technical forum...

[Andy in NH]

I like https://www.prolixlubricant.com/

It cleans, lubricates, and protects.
Smell good too - like citrus.

[pangloss]

Breakfree CLP, Liberty Gun Lube, or Weaponshield. I also have some white lithium grease, but I rarely use it.

Sent from my moto e5 cruise using Tapatalk

[Old Virginia]

I use a sonic cleaner with Ballistol 10% and water 90%. Some times use Honady One Shot. But will take a bottle of the Balistol Milk and dip the gun in a tub with it or use a spay bottle.

Leaves a very fine Super Slick coating that does not harden. Also leaves magazines very slick. Some say too slick or slippery. Another reason I like modular guns. So easy to clean trigger parts etc.

[Alpha Sierra]

Oh yeah, range guns don't get cleaned any sooner than 1K rounds since last cleaning. If I cleaned every 100 - 200 rounds, I'd be cleaning every single day almost.

CCW guns get cleaned a lot more often but not after every use.

[GJM]

Bore snake
Lucas oil
Lucas grease
Lucas Contact gleaner
Paper towel
Compressed air

[Greg]

The absolute cleanest I've ever gotten pistols or AR BCGs is with Simple Green. The stuff works wonders on carbon and greasy gunk.
I don't clean my guns to this level very often.


I've heard it is tough on aluminum so proceed with caution.

[Jason M]

I have had very good results wit the Lucas Extreme duty products including the oil. CLP, bore solvent, and grease.

[revchuck38]

Back when I carried an autoloader with full-length guide rails (1911, Beretta 92, CZ-75) I used grease on the rails (Slide Guide Lite) and whatever gun oil I had on other moving parts. The bores got Hoppe's #9. Current designs with nubs for guide rails (PX4, Walther P99C, and M&P) just get oil for lube; I tend to be more generous with oil on the PX4. I've used grease with the M&Ps with no ill effects, haven't tried it with the PX4 and Walther. The bores still get Hoppe's.

When I shoot my carry gun, I field strip it, wipe it down with a paper towel or tissue, run a bore snake through the barrel twice, re-lube it, put it back together, reload it and holster.

[MGW]

I use Liberty CLP (switching to HLP on the next order) and Liberty grease. A bore snake and a tooth brush gets most of the gunk out after a range day. Hoppes for the bore if it needs it. I don’t detail clean my hand guns very often and usually just add a dab of CLP before range sessions.

[LittleLebowski]

The absolute cleanest I've ever gotten pistols or AR BCGs is with Simple Green. The stuff works wonders on carbon and greasy gunk.
I don't clean my guns to this level very often.


I've heard it is tough on aluminum so proceed with caution.

I’ve seen it turn aluminum purple.

[beenalongtime]

I have an assortment of oils and greases, in part due to finding them on sale, closeout, etc. I am slowly working through and comparing what I think is best, but don't see a lot of real difference. Some do have lower operating temps (tw25b verses superlube, as an example), and that might make a difference depending on where you live.

I am tempted to try just straight mineral oil, since it is the basis of so many of them.
Leaving this here as a reminder to myself, I need to check out the ultrasonic thread, as mine has been used pretty much for lawmower carburettors in the last few years. I wonder about it and night sights.

[cornstalker]

Brake cleaner is totally obnoxious if you can't use it outside. If you use it in the garage, it might stink up your whole house. Don't fire it off in the basement. Don't breathe it. Don't get it on your skin. I would say it requires a little more aggressive PPE than some other cleaning products.

FYI
It works great on yellow jackets too, just watch your overspray.

[RJ]

Brake cleaner is totally obnoxious if you can't use it outside. If you use it in the garage, it might stink up your whole house. Don't fire it off in the basement. Don't breathe it. Don't get it on your skin. I would say it requires a little more aggressive PPE than some other cleaning products.

FYI
It works great on yellow jackets too, just watch your overspray.

I use non-chlorinated. No VOCs.

Still highly flammable though, so definitely outside, and definitely w gloves.

[cornstalker]

I use non-chlorinated. No VOCs.

So do I. All of what I said still applies. Especially the part about the yellow jackets. Lol.

http://docs.crcindustries.com/msds/75086E.pdf

[WDR]

I have yet to find any disposable gloves that seem to hold up to brake cleaner... and having used it a lot in the past at my old work, I try to avoid it now. I have heard it said that spraying it on your bare skin is like spraying a garden hose at a screen door: the chemicals basically go right into your body. That may be bullshit, but it will tear up/dry out your skin terribly if its something you use often. It also does strip ALL the oil from metal parts, so you have to re-lube unless you want rust. It is nice if you have something intricate you don't want to tear apart, but want to clean/degrease, like an AR lower/trigger/hammer. Catching the runoff and disposing of it/letting it evaporate can be problematic. It is also nice for cleaning out bore brushes after use.

I have two quart bottles of Breakfree CLP I snagged for a song way back when, and it seems to do an okay job for routine cleaning/lube. I think I have almost used up the first bottle in the last 20 years or so. If I was going to start all over again, I'd probably buy M-Pro7 for cleaner... and wear gloves more often when cleaning. I have used Ballistol a bit, and many other gun lubes/oils/greases/snake oil.... I even have a bottle of Fireclean (which is the only lube I've used that gummed up terribly in storage). A good copper remover is handy for heavily fouled bores, as is something like Kroil for heavy carbon and lead fouling.

None of the stuff out there is magic... buy what is cheap, smells less/nice, works for your guns, and don't stress too much about what is "best"... IMHO.

[Rhino]

I was at Scheels and picked up son G96 CLP. I have not used it yet, so we will see how it works.
Thank you for all the assistance with this. It has been helpful and educational!

[Aray]

Aray is a certified lube guy and can probably speak about cleaning products as well.

I usually clean my firearms with baby wipes and lube with Slip 2000 or Weapon Shield.

Sorry dude, I'm done talking about this stuff online for a while. I just can't do it anymore, my sanity suffers.

[Alpha Sierra]

Sorry dude, I'm done talking about this stuff online for a while. I just can't do it anymore, my sanity suffers.

https://www.reactiongifs.us/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/lol_vladimir_putin.gif

[ASH556]

Little bit of a necro-bump here, and not a lube question, but a solvent question: I've used Birchwood Casey's Gun Scrubber and also Safariland/Kleenbore's Gunk-Out as aerosol spray cleaners. I use it on everything from .22's to AR's, Glocks, Benelli Shotguns, etc. Typically I spray the dirty area (chamber, bolt, Glock frame, barrel bore, etc), scrub it with a nylon brush, spray again to flush, and then wipe clean with an old t-shirt.

I'm out of Gunk-Out and need to re-buy. In reading to see what/if I should buy something different, I found a statement that Gunk-Out says it's not safe for certain wood and polymers. Oops.

What do you all use for such things and what is a safe bet? Based on current research I'm leaning towards Aerosol CLP. Still, that doesn't work for de-greasing things.


Thoughts?

Edit: It appears Gunk-Out is now discontinued?

[revchuck38]

I've got some stuff from my LGS called "Breakthrough Military-Grade Solvent". It comes in a non-aerosol spray bottle. I've used it on my revolvers and polymer-framed bottomfeeders and it worked well. I haven't tried it on my AR or 870.

[OlongJohnson]

I use a lot of Hornady One-Shot cleaner/lube.

[Maca]

I started using Hornsby One Shot cleaner+lube recently on my 1911, and it seems to be working well.

[AzShooter]

Very new to owing, so I am wondering what some of the "best" options are for cleaning/shooting oil products?
If I buy a new weapon, what lubricants should I put on it prior to firing it?
I currently have a Beretta 9mm, and looking to purchase a 45.

If you have a link to a prior thread or videos it would be appreciated.
Thanks!
I've tried just about everything but a number of years ago I found MPro7 products and have been very happy with them ever since. I ended up being sponsored by them. I gave away hundreds of small display models at matches and guys were amazed at how clean and easy it was to clean their guns. They later came out with a cleaning jell and oil.

[SecondsCount]

I've tried just about everything but a number of years ago I found MPro7 products and have been very happy with them ever since. I ended up being sponsored by them. I gave away hundreds of small display models at matches and guys were amazed at how clean and easy it was to clean their guns. They later came out with a cleaning jell and oil.

If I am not using my ultrasonic, MPro7 is my choice.

[CarloMNL]

Used Hoppe's 9 for a long time. Recently discovered M-Pro 7 bore gel (now discontinued). Inventory label said if reached my country in 2011. Wasn't sure if it would work at all. Turns out it works fine and is odorless (which my household appreciates.)

[mmc45414]

Used Hoppe's 9 for a long time. Recently discovered M-Pro 7 bore gel (now discontinued). Inventory label said if reached my country in 2011. Wasn't sure if it would work at all. Turns out it works fine and is odorless (which my household appreciates.)
The odor is part of the reason I like using Hoppe's, it takes me back to a childhood happy place :cool::o

[RoyGBiv]

The odor is part of the reason I like using Hoppe's, it takes me back to a childhood happy place :cool::o

Same for me. And I also like Gumout for the smell (scent?) as well. :rolleyes:

[willie]

Little bit of a necro-bump here, and not a lube question, but a solvent question: I've used Birchwood Casey's Gun Scrubber and also Safariland/Kleenbore's Gunk-Out as aerosol spray cleaners. I use it on everything from .22's to AR's, Glocks, Benelli Shotguns, etc. Typically I spray the dirty area (chamber, bolt, Glock frame, barrel bore, etc), scrub it with a nylon brush, spray again to flush, and then wipe clean with an old t-shirt.

I'm out of Gunk-Out and need to re-buy. In reading to see what/if I should buy something different, I found a statement that Gunk-Out says it's not safe for certain wood and polymers. Oops.

What do you all use for such things and what is a safe bet? Based on current research I'm leaning towards Aerosol CLP. Still, that doesn't work for de-greasing things.


Thoughts?

Edit: It appears Gunk-Out is now discontinued?

I suggest using a non chlorinated brake parts spray cleaner. Some of the heavy duty cleaners will degrade plastics and rubber. Degreasers remove oils which must be replaced to prevent rusting even on stainless steel. An easy way is spray with Rem Oil and follow up with brake parts cleaner. Then spray again with Rem Oil. I use compressed air to bow off excess Rem Oil. This method does well on trigger groups. Lately I use Slip 2000 for everything. I've been able to make most cleaning and lube products work. Much of it is snake oil. Slip 2000 is expensive, maybe too expensive. An air compressor is a great tool allowing removal of excess. I clean my guns every time I shoot them but do so gently by wiping of internals with a soft cloth treated with whatever. I use a couple Q tips here and there and then clean chamber with a mop or patches and run same through the bore. No scrubbing with harsh brushes and no excess lube applied. Of course, the outside is wiped gently. On a Glock or CZ this takes 10 minutes. Is this much attention necessary? No.

[seamastersw]

Breakfree clp for just about all cleaning and preserving tasks. I like a lubricant with more viscosity so it stays out better. Lately I prefer Weaponshield, m-Pro7 lpx, and Lucas extreme.