Thinking about a Manix 2, need some help

[Jared]

Ok, so I’ve become something of a Spyderco junkie by accident. I’ll skip the whole story and just get to the meat. I don’t have a Manix 2, and I’m thinking it may be time to rectify that. I’m trying to decide between 2 models. The first is the basic Manix 2 with CPMS30V steel and black G10 grips. The other is the LW version with translucent blue FRCP grip and the CTS-BD1N steel.

What will I use it for? Mostly EDC and probably some use at work. It’ll cut cardboard, some zip ties, some small gauge electrical wire, stuff like that. It won’t be used to cut down small trees or anything crazy like that. I’ve been using a Delica 4 at work for all this stuff and it’s doing fine, so I doubt the LW Manix would have any issues holding up.

I know both versions can be had with fancier steels like S110V and Maxamet. I don’t really trust my sharpening skills enough to go that route. I’d rather use an easier to sharpen steel and just stay on top of maintenance than have something that holds an edge longer but is a real bear to get back into shape. That said, if someone an give me some pointers on S110V and a Spyderco Sharpmaker, I could be talked into going that route.

At any rate, if anyone wants to share their Manix 2 stories and advice, I’m all ears. I’ll probably order this weekend after I get some feedback here.

[Warped Mindless]

The manix 2 seems a bit overkill for those task. Have you looked into the paramilitary line? That said, im a huge s30v fan.

[blues]

Jared, it's hard to go wrong with any of the Spyderco models in general. The Manix 2 (https://www.amazon.com/s?k=manix+2&i=sporting&ref=nb_sb_noss_1) has a nice stout frame, the ball bearing lock and a thin leaf shaped blade. It's actually slightly thinner stock compared to the Paramilitary 2 (https://www.amazon.com/SPYDERCO-PARAMILITARY-2/s?k=SPYDERCO+PARAMILITARY+2) as I recall. Either one of those models would probably serve you well.

As far as the steels go, some folks report the S110V as being a bit chippy...but Jim Ankerson (https://knifeinformer.com/spyderco-military-s110v-review/) has a different perspective you may find of interest.

Regarding the Sharpmaker...If you don't let the knife get dull before performing periodic maintenance, you can get by using the Sharpmaker (https://www.amazon.com/Spyderco-Tri-Angle-Sharpmaker-Sharpener-204MF/dp/B000Q9C4AE) with the standard stones. I recommend just using the brown stones for a slightly coarser edge which works well with high carbide steels. Also, you can get the diamond (https://www.amazon.com/Spyderco-Diamond-Triangle-Pair-204D/dp/B000WUKFBM/ref=sr_1_1?crid=2K2TU4I4JRQS5&dchild=1&keywords=spyderco+diamond+rods&qid=1578539747&s=sporting-goods&sprefix=spyderco+diamon%2Csporting%2C177&sr=1-1) or CBN (https://www.amazon.com/Spyderco-204CBN-Nitride-Triangle-Sharpeners/dp/B00KNRP3SO/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1YPGKG1I5SYH4&dchild=1&keywords=spyderco+cbn&qid=1578539678&s=sporting-goods&sprefix=spyderco+cbn%2Csporting%2C168&sr=1-1-catcorr) rods to augment the ceramic rods.

[Jared]

The manix 2 seems a bit overkill for those task. Have you looked into the paramilitary line? That said, im a huge s30v fan.

Should have probably stated I’ve got a PM2, Para 3 and a Para 3 LW. I kinda wanna try the Manix now to see how I like it. Most people seem to prefer the Paramilitary and it’s family but I’ve read others that really really love the Manix.

[Duelist]

46940

I’m quite fond of mine. CPM-M4 is a great cutting steel, but requires more diligent maintenance than a similar blade in S30V to prevent staining, rust, and/or pits.

The lock is really cool.

[DamonL]

I like the Manix 2 a lot because I find the grip shape to be real comfortable. I have had both the 154cm hollow ground and s30v flat ground models. To be honest I did not find much difference between the two when used for my most common task of cutting open boxes. I currently carry a Manix 2 with M4 steel, but only because I wanted to try something different not because the standard steels are inadequate. The lock has been very reliable, too. I am sure you will like either model you buy, but I like the weight and strength of the full liners of the standard model. It might be heavier and thicker than the Delica, too but I am not sure.

[Jared]

Jared, it's hard to go wrong with any of the Spyderco models in general. The Manix 2 (https://www.amazon.com/s?k=manix+2&i=sporting&ref=nb_sb_noss_1) has a nice stout frame, the ball bearing lock and a thin leaf shaped blade. It's actually slightly thinner stock compared to the Paramilitary 2 (https://www.amazon.com/SPYDERCO-PARAMILITARY-2/s?k=SPYDERCO+PARAMILITARY+2) as I recall. Either one of those models would probably serve you well.

As far as the steels go, some folks report the S110V as being a bit chippy...but Jim Ankerson (https://knifeinformer.com/spyderco-military-s110v-review/) has a different perspective you may find of interest.

Regarding the Sharpmaker...If you don't let the knife get dull before performing periodic maintenance, you can get by using the Sharpmaker (https://www.amazon.com/Spyderco-Tri-Angle-Sharpmaker-Sharpener-204MF/dp/B000Q9C4AE) with the standard stones. I recommend just using the brown stones for a slightly coarser edge which works well with high carbide steels. Also, you can get the diamond (https://www.amazon.com/Spyderco-Diamond-Triangle-Pair-204D/dp/B000WUKFBM/ref=sr_1_1?crid=2K2TU4I4JRQS5&dchild=1&keywords=spyderco+diamond+rods&qid=1578539747&s=sporting-goods&sprefix=spyderco+diamon%2Csporting%2C177&sr=1-1) or CBN (https://www.amazon.com/Spyderco-204CBN-Nitride-Triangle-Sharpeners/dp/B00KNRP3SO/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1YPGKG1I5SYH4&dchild=1&keywords=spyderco+cbn&qid=1578539678&s=sporting-goods&sprefix=spyderco+cbn%2Csporting%2C168&sr=1-1-catcorr) rods to augment the ceramic rods.

So, the only tip I really saw regarding S110V was to just use the brown stones on the Sharpmaker and leave it at that. I’ve been using both stones when I sharpen my other knives, but the “best” steel I have is S30V on a Para 3 and a Paramilitary 2. My rule thus far has been to use until the knife won’t catch my thumbnail anymore, then sharpen on the Sharpmaker. So far, it’s kept me from spending any long sessions sharpening.

I’m glad you responded, I’ve been looking at your pics in the blade pic thread in the gallery. I’m jealous.

[blues]

So, the only tip I really saw regarding S110V was to just use the brown stones on the Sharpmaker and leave it at that. I’ve been using both stones when I sharpen my other knives, but the “best” steel I have is S30V on a Para 3 and a Paramilitary 2. My rule thus far has been to use until the knife won’t catch my thumbnail anymore, then sharpen on the Sharpmaker. So far, it’s kept me from spending any long sessions sharpening.

I’m glad you responded, I’ve been looking at your pics in the blade pic thread in the gallery. I’m jealous.

The higher carbide steels, (4% Vanadium Carbide and higher), generally perform better with coarser edges than fine edges. That said you can tune them for the work you plan to do. For push cutting a finer edge will work better. Slicing and general work, coarser wins the day.

But if you do get the 110V I think you'll probably want the option of a coarser hone, (diamond, CBN, silicon carbide at 300 to 400 grit), for when you need to do more than just a touch-up.

Nothing wrong with S30V and honestly, I think people get caught up in chasing the hot steels when they really won't see much difference in performance for everyday tasks.

ETA: I only have one Manix 2, in 52100. I have several other Spydercos ...PM2, Shaman, Military, Police 4 etc in many other "premium" stainless and tool steels.

[pangloss]

I had Manix 2 with the G10 grips. I don't remember which steel though. It has a very solid lock up and felt great in my hand. When we moved from TN to KS, the moving dolly broke while the movers were taking my gun safe down into the basement. The 19 year old kid below the safe was almost crushed. I knew he really like my Manix, so I gave it to him as an extra tip at the end of the job. Every month since then I've thought of buying another one. I like the Benchmade mini-grip that I carry now, but it seems awfully pedestrian compared to the Manix 2.

Sent from my moto e5 cruise using Tapatalk

[javemtr]

First of all, you can't go wrong with any Manix, they are really that good! I'm usually not a huge fan of large finger choils, but the ergonomics of the handle are near perfect for me, so I'll overlook the choil issue.
I carried a Manix 2 Lightweight S110V for several years, it's a great EDC because it is so light! S110V was up to the task, no rust, no chipping, but I reprofiled the edge after getting it, maybe that's why I never saw any issues.
Regarding weight, be aware that the standard G10 models have full, non-relieved steel liners, making them fairly heavy. Only the 'special' models have relieved steel liners, saving you 0.7 oz. The S110V version in G10 also has the relieved liners.
Your question comes a few months too late, because otherwise I would have told you to absolutely jump on the limited offering of a Manix 2 in brown G10 and M390 steel. Dream setup, I bought 3!!!
Anyway, that last thing to know is that the Manix takes up a lot of pocket space because it is fairly wide, but not even that can stop me from carrying one near daily.

[delphidoc]

I didn't like the FRN grips on the Lightweight. They don't have the same smoth contour like on the Stretch, Delica, Endura. I was a 100% G10 guy until I bought my first Stretch. Those grips are awesome. I was actually disappointed in the Stretch with G10 grips. But the Manix 2 Lightweight grips left me unimpressed.

[BigD]

I love my Manix 2 w/G10. I have Delicas with FRN handles and greatly prefer G10.

Mine is 'just' S30V. I'd like to have the black blade in M4 with natural G10. Looks cool and M4 is said to take a keen edge for those into unnecessarily sharp knives. (I am.)

The Manix 2 is highly flickable, which is a bonus.

------

I've sharpened a lot with the Sharpermaker. Forget about the brown rods if the edge is very dull and don't even think about using them to reprofile (and just because it's a Spyderco knife don't assume it will match the 20° Sharpmaker angle.)

Sharpmaker diamond rods are pricey. Instead, you can lay a DMT diamond stone (like the Diafold) over the factory rods. You get the same visual guide of the Sharpmaker but with much faster cutting stones. Diafolds are handy portable sharpeners as well, which is another reason to buy them instead of Spyderco diamond rods.

However, I have the ultrafine ceramic Sharpmaker that I really like.

DMT coarse -> DMT fine -> Spyderco Ceramic fine -> Ceramic ultrafine -> Ken Schwartz CBN emulsions on balsa strops is the heat for S30V and any 'lesser' steel. I can't say from experience now the ceramic rods handle the newer super steels, but the DMT stones and the CNN emulsions will be good to go on just about anything, I think.

And you can prop up one side of the Sharpmaker for a more acute angle.

I wasn't a fan of the Sharpmaker at first but now that I can reprofile everything with the diamond stones very quickly, I've come to love it.

[blues]

I've got the black M4 bladed PM2 with natural G10. Sold the backup to a guy on bladeforums a few months ago.

Like you, I reserve the Sharpmaker for touch-ups. I have tons of diamond bench stones, (plated and bonded), AlOx and SiC water and oil bench stones, plus ceramic bench stones all over the house. I'm never far from something to sharpen with. I think I enjoy the sharpening gear as much as the knives.

That said, I usually just pick up a small 1x5" hone for most freehand sharpening during the day.