Glock questions. I instaled a new spring kit and connecter.

[dolphin62]

I have a glock 17 generation 3 that I bought in April. For the most part I like the gun and shot a lot of ammo in it over the summer, I shoot pretty good with it but don't always hit the target with the accuracy that I would like. A fellow at the pistol glub looked at it and told me the trigger pull was to heavy at 6.0 pounds and that it could be the problem. He told me ABOUT ghost connecters ( the edge) and putting some new springs. I orderd a kit from ghost which contained 2 fireing pin springs, 4 pound and 6 pound, a heavy trigger spring and a lightweight safety spring. He also told me to use some gun butter grease which should make the gun shoot smoother and should reduce the pull some.

I installed the 4 pound firing pin spring, the heavy trigger spring and the light weight safety pin spring along with the edge connector. I tested the trigger pull after and it was reading 3 pounds and very smooth. I could not waite to try the gun out. It shot much nicer and smoother with much more accuracy. I only shot it with only 1 or 2 shells in the magazine to make sure it worked ok. Then I would shoot it with my normal 5 in the magazine.

The problem I had after shooting about 30 rounds is that I would sometimes get what seemed like 2 rounds shooting very quickly with out me really pulling the trigger. I thought it might have been me keeping my finger on the trigger and pulling it and not realizing it. It made me very nervous and it happened a few times. I thought it may have been from shooting 2 many rounds and getting a little to confident or that the pull is to light and I am not use to it yet.

The questions I have is could this be because of the springs being to light, especialy the safety pin spring, or the edge connector is not the right type of connecter to use for this spring kit. To make a short storie I went home and put in the 6 pound fire pin spring and replaced the safety pin spring back with the original one. The trigger pull is now at 5 pounds and it still seems to be much smoother than it was when the gun was unaltered. I was thinking of maybe getting a 5 pound spring and seeing if that would help to reduce it the pull a little.

Has anyone had any of these problems when they installed any spring kits I would be greatfull for any feedback.

[JodyH]

If you change the trigger bar you really need to verify cruciform to striker engagement with an armorers slide plate.
Google "Glock trigger engagement" for pictures and how to.

BTW: it's you that needs adjustment not the pistol.
Chasing software problems with hardware fixes is an exercise in futility until you know for sure the software is bug free.

[CCT125US]

Please take your Glock to a certified armorer, have them return it to stock condition. Sign up for a course from a respected trainer. Don't take advice from a "fellow" who says 6lbs is too heavy for a trigger.

[dolphin62]

Please take your Glock to a certified armorer, have them return it to stock condition. Sign up for a course from a respected trainer. Don't take advice from a "fellow" who says 6lbs is too heavy for a trigger.

I willtake your advise. I have always said that free advise you pay thousands for, in this case I only paid 30 dollars in parts for springs and a connector.

[JAH 3rd]

I purchased my first 9mm Glock in December. Model 17 gen 5 with Glock night sights. This pistol has the best stock trigger of any striker-fired pistol I have. It is slightly better than the M&P 2.0 45 acp I have. I went to the range yesterday and shot another 136 rounds of Federal 115gr fmj through it. Up to 444 trouble-free rounds now.

The best way I can describe the trigger pull on the 17 is : 1) Take up the trigger slack until you hit the wall. 2) The pull through the wall is a light, rolling break, then let off. It is very shooter friendly. I have no desire to get the trigger pull any lighter.

I hope you get your Glock figured out. I have tried in the past to get the lightest trigger pull on a firearm, only to have other issues pop-up.

[JodyH]

Until you can hit a 2" bullseye 100% of the time (5+ shots) at 7 yards with a stock Glock, you don't need to be changing out anything.
Once you have enough skill to hit a 2" bullseye at 7 yards 100% of the time you'll come to the realization that you don't need to change anything.

2" @ 7Y 100% is what I consider to be a decent shooter with some understanding of shooting fundamentals..
90% of the people at the range can't meet that standard on their best day with their favorite pistol.

Bump that out to 15 yards and you have a really solid shooter.

[dolphin62]

I purchased my first 9mm Glock in December. Model 17 gen 5 with Glock night sights. This pistol has the best stock trigger of any striker-fired pistol I have. It is slightly better than the M&P 2.0 45 acp I have. I went to the range yesterday and shot another 136 rounds of Federal 115gr fmj through it. Up to 444 trouble-free rounds now.

The best way I can describe the trigger pull on the 17 is : 1) Take up the trigger slack until you hit the wall. 2) The pull through the wall is a light, rolling break, then let off. It is very shooter friendly. I have no desire to get the trigger pull any lighter.

I hope you get your Glock figured out. I have tried in the past to get the lightest trigger pull on a firearm, only to have other issues pop-up.
I must have pushed the wrong box sorry

[CWM11B]

In the FWIW department, I routinely take the Glock armorers course every couple of years and last year did the two day advanced, even though I've never been issued one, and until my recent acquisition of a G43 rarely carried one. I do own and shoot 19s, 17s, and a 34 and in the past owned a 20 and 23. I do it because the gun is so damn prolific and many folks I trained have them. In 20 + years of being around them, outside of G22 WML issues, the only Glocks I've seen choke and puke are those stuffed full of aftermarket parts installed by self trained gun plumbers. With very few exceptions, stock parts are the way to go. Personally, I only use the tango down Vickers mag floorplates with mine. I have no experience with the SCD, but believe that to be very worthy of consideration. Sights are also aftermarket. Everything else on mine are OEM.

[GearFondler]

Until you can hit a 2" bullseye 100% of the time (5+ shots) at 7 yards with a stock Glock, you don't need to be changing out anything.
Once you have enough skill to hit a 2" bullseye at 7 yards 100% of the time you'll come to the realization that you don't need to change anything.

2" @ 7Y 100% is what I consider to be a decent shooter with some understanding of shooting fundamentals..
90% of the people at the range can't meet that standard on their best day with their favorite pistol.

Bump that out to 15 yards and you have a really solid shooter.Just trying to get a full understanding of your criteria...

- Is this untimed slow fire or rapid fire?
- Is this from the holster or in hand?

Thanks.

[Darth_Uno]

In 20 + years of being around them, outside of G22 WML issues, the only Glocks I've seen choke and puke are those stuffed full of aftermarket parts installed by self trained gun plumbers. With very few exceptions, stock parts are the way to go.
Same. Connectors haven’t seemed to be an issue, but I run factory minus connectors in all mine. When I got sold on making the trigger “better” on various Glocks I had double taps like OP, failure to reset, light strikes...went back to stock and all problems were solved.

If you want to tune your gun, go for it. Especially if the only penalty is that it barfs in a match. For anything you carry, the trade off isn’t worth it.

Members here have won a Turbo Pin with, if I recall, basically almost stock weapons. So...it ain’t always the arrow.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[vcdgrips]

YMMV Greatly. I posted this some time ago on another forum re the concept of the .25 Trigger Job. I re-posted it here in response to an inquiry re the same in 2017.

"I have been shooting Glocks since 1990. The most reliable, repeatable triggers (Edited to add SAFE) triggers I have had and used came with the 5.5 TRS (OEM trigger return spring) with an OEM "minus" connector, a dab of grease/lub on the bearing surfaces and thousands of dry fires/live fires. Move away from this formula, particularly with non OEM parts or parts that get "polished" to the point that metal is removed at your own peril.

It is not a 1911 trigger and is never going to be. If that is driving your train then 1. get a 1911 or 2. consider the offerings of Apex for the M&P.

Be safe and well all."

I only have Gen 1-3 guns. I am told that some Gen4 and Gen5 guns are quite fine with completely stock set ups. See an armorer, get it back to stock. Dry fire the snot out of it, take a class and shoot it and I suspect that your trigger and your results will be just fine.

[CraigS]

OP I think your main problem is you're new to the lighter trigger. 3# is definitely light. First thing I'd do is put the stock trigger spring back in. Sorry I just went back and read your first post and you have replaced some of the parts and now have a 5# pull which is much smoother than before. I would run this combination. 5# and smooth is a nice striker trigger in my book.

[JodyH]

Just trying to get a full understanding of your criteria...

- Is this untimed slow fire or rapid fire?
- Is this from the holster or in hand?

Thanks.
No time limit, whatever pace you want to shoot.
If there's no time limit then it doesn't matter how you start.
:p

I've literally watched hundreds of "normies" shoot (I was a CCW Instructor for 15 years or so).
The majority of them have a hard time going 100% on a 12"x18" target with a handgun... I know this because that's the NM CCW qualification target size and 7Y is max distance.
It actually takes someone with decent fundamentals and plenty of trigger time to go 5 for 5 on a 2" @ 7Y "on demand".
Do the same at 15Y and you're a 1%'er.
Ace my "99 Drill (http://pistol-training.com/drills/99-drill)" and you're a man among men.
:cool:

[peterb]

The problem I had after shooting about 30 rounds is that I would sometimes get what seemed like 2 rounds shooting very quickly with out me really pulling the trigger. I thought it might have been me keeping my finger on the trigger and pulling it and not realizing it. It made me very nervous and it happened a few times. I thought it may have been from shooting 2 many rounds and getting a little to confident or that the pull is to light and I am not use to it yet.

You're not the first to have this problem. I turned my Glock into a burst-fire device by overpolishing the factory parts the first time I tried to "improve" it. Lesson learned. The internals are now completely stock.

Instruction and practice helped. Shooting a double-action revolver helped. Good sights helped.

Be safe, have fun, learn stuff. Repeat indefinitely. :)

[JBP55]

The 4# FPS and 6# TS do not play well together and hinder trigger reset when used together.
An OEM Glock 4.5# minus connector and a 5# FPS will give you a slightly lighter trigger pull and be totally reliable if you use quality ammunition.

[10mmfanboy]

Probably about 98% of aftermarket glock parts are garbage. I don't like to mess with the zen of my glocks. The number one and really only reason I buy them is for a time tested and proven reliability track record.

The best advice I got for shooting a glock is using more trigger finger. I approach them more as a true double action trigger.

[10mmfanboy]

Speaking of shitty aftermarket Glock part purveyors, I’m pretty sure one of them is waiting for you to respond to an email they sent you yesterday morning...

LOL I'm sorry sir, Let me check right now. I in no way imply that a SCD is garbage. One of the other only reasons I stick with a glock.

I need to order another SCD too for a G48 now as well. :cool:

[M2CattleCo]

A thing to check and be mindful of with spring kits is that they often don't allow the trigger to fully reset and it leaves the gun in a condition to fire if dropped muzzle up.

[dolphin62]

I wont make this mistake again. Thanks for the help. I should have known better being a educated person and never gave it much thought.

[dolphin62]

Iam not a troll but what does oem mean. I figure I would get the best answer from this site.

[camsdaddy]

Iam not a troll but what does oem mean. I figure I would get the best answer from this site.
Original Equipment Manufacturer

[Wise_A]

You can go aftermarket with Glock internals--so long as you use your head. My 34 MOS is somewhat messed-with, since it's strictly a range day gigglegun. The problem is that the Glock design doesn't require super-tight tolerances for everything to go together. That makes it very easy to manufacture parts for, and even easier for owners to change stuff out. So easy, in fact, that even morons can do it. And they do.

Playing mix-n-match with different companies (Company A's trigger bar, Company B's striker) is generally a bad idea, because their tolerances may not play nice together. I'm not especially fond of altering the stock trigger geometry--although it can be done--particularly because so many of the people that do it are looking for a "short, crisp trigger with no takeup!". Which is about as bad an idea as it sounds.

OP

Return the pistol to factory configuration. Remember to orient the trigger spring correctly. My personal opinion is that if one can't shoot a stock Glock well-enough, one cannot shoot, period. Glock triggers are not the greatest things in the world for precision pistol shooting, but they don't take any great talent to work. Your range buddy is a moron. Learning to shoot well is difficult enough, you don't need somebody else making excuses to impede your progress. There's only three things that matter:

*What am I doing wrong?
*What do I need to do?
*How do I do it?

If you decide to start swapping parts back in, do so one at a time. Start with the connector. Note that you bought the fairly aggressive Evo connector--it eliminates the "wall" at the end of the pull. This, combined with either a gun that's allowed to move in your grip, or a hesitant trigger pull, plus a lightened trigger, will easily cause your unintended discharge situation. Tighten up your grip, and remember to smoothly increase trigger pressure all the way through the break. Don't creep up to the break, starting and stopping, inching closer and closer until the gun goes off.

After that, you can start working with the springs, although I would not recommend it. I use the file-to-fit version of the Evo in my 34, and actually went back to a stock trigger spring, as it was way too light without the wall. Even still, that's not a gun I pass around for everybody to shoot.

If you do decide to continue playing with the internals--again, your gun, your responsibility, your choice--I would suggest picking up a spare set of plastic frame pins. They're cheap as hell, but they can wear out very quickly when you're taking the gun apart. Eventually, they'll start coming out while you shoot.

On Range Normies

Yesterday, I had two Ancient Ones walk up to me while I was trying to shoot. Bear in mind, at this point, I've been sitting around for eight goddamn minutes while they get two bags out of their car, while making zero attempt to put on ears so I could go back to shooting.

They then proceed to tell me my plastic guns are garbage--aforementioned G34, plus an HK USP45 Expert, and that "youngsters" like me (I'm fucking 34) don't know what a good gun is, or how to shoot properly. Again--I'm a big BE dude, and I don't suck at it, either, but today is Shoot Fast Funtimes Day.

When they finally let me get back to it, I hear one of them make a rather rude comment about "spraying and praying". I've been shooting pretty damn fast (for me, not for some of you guys), but everything's on the plate at 10y. Can't shoot pretty groups if you're trying to learn to go faster. One of them unlimbers a .357, and slowly empties the cylinder at a paper plate from 10 yards, from a rest. He hits it once. His buddy does the same with one of those giant 18x18 Shoot'n'See things, and I couldn't even see where any of those shots impacted.

At this point, I lost my mind. I used the next magazine from the USP drawing a happy face on a plate, complete with a double-tap'd nose.


Personally, I only use the tango down Vickers mag floorplates with mine.

Love those--they make for a hell of a grip, don't pinch my hands on reload, and are pretty stylish.