When will the CR123 die (or when can we kill it)?

[rob_s]

My go to lights for house and car have been the Streamlight PolyTac (https://www.streamlight.com/products/product-series/polytac) line for quite some time. I have many iterations, over many generations, but generally my two lights of choice from their current offerings are the POLYTAC® FLASHLIGHT (https://www.streamlight.com/en/products/detail/index/polytac) and the Streamlight PolyTac HP (https://www.streamlight.com/en/products/detail/index/polytac-hp), however all of the ones I have appear to pre-date the "all the lumens" hysteria and also the "ten-tap" silliness. Mine are all two-stage at best, and nowhere near 600 lumens max. I think this is the version of the HP (https://www.amazon.com/Streamlight-88863-PolyTac-Flashlight-Batteries/dp/B0039D02S0/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=streamlight+polytac&qid=1577790094&sr=8-7) that I have the most of, and it's equivalent smaller-headed version. This HP topped out at 275 lumens. I really like the HP versions at the house because the beams shine so goddamn far.

All of that to say, I'm tired of dealing with the expense of the CR123 batteries.

I'm considering just sticking kind of with what I know and switching out to the Streamlight PolyTac X Series 600 Lumen "Dual Fuel" Tactical Flashlight (https://www.amazon.com/Streamlight-88613-PolyTac-USB-Rechargeable/dp/B079D6N6JW/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=streamlight%2Bpolytac&qid=1577790094&sr=8-4&th=1), but it still seems like overkill to me, and it seems to require removing the battery to charge it, which isn't really ideal IMO. side note, can these batteries just drop in to any 2-cell CR123 LED light? Might be an option to just buy the batteries...

other options, staying with Streamlight, would be something like the Dualie Rechargeable (https://www.amazon.com/Streamlight-Dualie-Flashlight-Downward-Magnetic/dp/B0797YHHXQ/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=DUALIE%C2%AE+RECHARGEABLE+FLAS HLIGHT&qid=1577791640&sr=8-4) at ~$75/ea with charger that maxes out at 245 lumens but seems more complicated than I'd like with the two modes (https://youtu.be/tQZz6f_znQI). I also love the Polystinger (https://www.amazon.com/Streamlight-76182-PolyStinger-Flashlight-Piggyback/dp/B002E1AVB6/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=polystinger&qid=1577791878&sr=8-2), but at ~$150/ea with charger and ~$100/ea without charger I don't know that I want them disapearing into the yard with the kids as things like to do these days.

I guess, rambling aside (TLDR?), I'm looking for a rechargeable, ~250-300 lumen, preferably two-mode, LED light that's got two basic modes. Yellow or other hi-viz and polymer body preferred.

[olstyn]

Maybe I'm missing something here, but why not just buy some rechargeable CR123s and a charger and call it a day? I got 5+ years of use out of rotating a pair of Tenergy rechargeable CR123s through my Quark QTL. I'm just now having to replace the batteries because they won't hold a charge anymore. I mean, if you really want to replace the lights themselves, go for it I guess, but that sounds like kind of a waste to me.

[peterb]

I’m sure the flashlight folks will know, but I think a 16650 rechargeable replaces 2xCR123.

[Tod-13]

No CR123s in our house. We have Streamlight AA and AAA lights.

ProTac and ProPolymer both have AA/AAA options.
I use the Microstream for EDC.

Bonus for us, no bloody strobe mode. My wife gets disabling migraines from flashing lights, so it is great they have options without that mode.

I think the ProPolymer all have one mode.
The ProTac have programmable mode options.

We use rechargeable AA/AAA.
But, as noted by another poster, unless you want AA/AAA, you can get the equivalent of a double CR123 rechargeable 16650 or singles with the 18650 (offered on Streamlight's website).

[lwt16]

I’m sure the flashlight folks will know, but I think a 16650 rechargeable replaces 2xCR123.

Mine has an Orbtronic protected 18650 3.7v 3400 mAh cell that has been rock solid for years now. I run it in a Fenix PD35 Tac as a duty light.

Rock solid.

As far as weapon lights, I get the cr123s at Lowes for like 2.50 a cell. Surefire brand. Not cheap but not killing me either.

[GearFondler]

I’m sure the flashlight folks will know, but I think a 16650 rechargeable replaces 2xCR123.

That is correct, with one issue... voltage. 2xCR123 = 6V while one 16650 = 4.2V fully charged. Conversely, you can also buy 16340's which are the same size as the CR123. But again, voltage is a possible issue... 1x16340 is 4.2V while 2x16340 is 8.4V. Most modern LED lights will run at the lower or higher voltage but not all of them. I would suggest researching your particular light before committing.

[Chuck Whitlock]

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=streamlight+microstream+usb&i=tools&crid=2CB9P6IW8IHFS&sprefix=streamlight+mic%2Ctools%2C294&ref=nb_sb_ss_i_2_15

Except for the polymer body desire, the microstream seems to fit the bill without breaking the bank. They are smaller than 2-cell 123 lights, so the munchkins might lose them easier. IIRC, someone on here stated that the tan one operates in Hi-Lo, and the others go Lo-Hi....I don't think Streamlight has literature about that.

[M2CattleCo]

I just buy a few boxes of CR123 on Amazon every couple of years.

The only thing that uses 'em is my Surefire handheld and mounted lights so they don't get commandeered for remote controls and kid's toys.

I like 'em.

[rob_s]

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=streamlight+microstream+usb&i=tools&crid=2CB9P6IW8IHFS&sprefix=streamlight+mic%2Ctools%2C294&ref=nb_sb_ss_i_2_15

Except for the polymer body desire, the microstream seems to fit the bill without breaking the bank. They are smaller than 2-cell 123 lights, so the munchkins might lose them easier. IIRC, someone on here stated that the tan one operates in Hi-Lo, and the others go Lo-Hi....I don't think Streamlight has literature about that.

I have several of these and love them. I can confirm that the tan goes hi-lo and the black goes lo-hi, although I always forget that about the black one.

I do find them a little small for house lights, and they also lack the throw that I like to have in our large-ish yard and down the road.


I just buy a few boxes of CR123 on Amazon every couple of years.

The only thing that uses 'em is my Surefire handheld and mounted lights so they don't get commandeered for remote controls and kid's toys.

I like 'em.
And the what for around The house and for the family/kids?

[rob_s]

No CR123s in our house. We have Streamlight AA and AAA lights.

ProTac and ProPolymer both have AA/AAA options.
I use the Microstream for EDC.

Bonus for us, no bloody strobe mode. My wife gets disabling migraines from flashing lights, so it is great they have options without that mode.

I think the ProPolymer all have one mode.
The ProTac have programmable mode options.

We use rechargeable AA/AAA.
But, as noted by another poster, unless you want AA/AAA, you can get the equivalent of a double CR123 rechargeable 16650 or singles with the 18650 (offered on Streamlight's website).

I tried going with these and the 2-AA version but the throw and brightness are lacking for us

Streamlight 68201 4AA ProPolymer LED Flashlight with White LEDs, Yellow - 67 Lumens https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00069PJLA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_nO2cEbV8W5KVF

I’m intrigued by this guy though. Claims 50 low, 300 high... if it switches lo-hi the kids will never get to high mode and kill the battery on me, takes rechargeable aa which I have a ton of...

Streamlight 68820 4AA Propolymax Flashlight, Yellow - 300 Lumens
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DIIHCKW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_RQ2cEbB4G3R1Z

[Clusterfrack]

It would be great to start a list of "CR123-only" tactical lights that actually work with 16340 rechargeables.

Surefire Saint Minimus: YES
TLR7: ???

[ST911]

I OCD'ed my battery consumption awhile back and found that I wasn't using as many 123s or spending as much as I thought. When I put new batts in a 123-device, I sharpie the installation date on the battery and that informs my buying and rotation habits. The batt in my EDCL1-T was installed 11/15/19, so I'm using less than a battery a month in EDC application. If replacing proactively, I'll rotate them down to a spare light. I did swap some utility lights to rechargeable models.

[M2CattleCo]

I have several of these and love them. I can confirm that the tan goes hi-lo and the black goes lo-hi, although I always forget that about the black one.

I do find them a little small for house lights, and they also lack the throw that I like to have in our large-ish yard and down the road.


And the what for around The house and for the family/kids?

Whatever they come up with. Remotes and toys aren't any of my concern.

[Blades]

I guess, rambling aside (TLDR?), I'm looking for a rechargeable, ~250-300 lumen, preferably two-mode, LED light that's got two basic modes. Yellow or other hi-viz and polymer body preferred.

ASP Poly DF? (https://www.asp-usa.com/collections/tactical-lighting/products/poly-triad-usb) It's not yellow. ASP Tungsten DF (https://www.asp-usa.com/collections/tactical-lighting/products/tungsten-usb) is aluminum but rechargeable.

[fatdog]

About 3 years ago I switched to all rechargeable CR123's (Enegitech, Nitcore, Keenstone, Eastshine) or 18650's (Eastshine and Nitecore) where they fit, all work great and feed the CR123 based lights more than adequately. I have not purchased another disposable CR123 since. They work in 1 cell up through 4 cell lights just fine and cycle through the chargers in about the same time as a AA or AAA NiMH rechargeable (which have 100% replaced all alkaline batteries in my electronics). I don't know how many charging cycles they are good for since only a few of mine have died, but some have clearly lasted 3 years and many dozens of cycles.

I found all of my surefire lights (which are 5 years old or older) need the rechargeable CR123 cells because the 18650's won't fit, but my newer lights, all Klarus XT series in my case, are just fine with the 18650's.

My only regret is the decades I wasted money on disposable CR123's before switching.

[RevolverRob]

All of my pocket lights are AA/AAA or 14500 rechargeable (AA form-factor). Which means only weapon lights are 123s at this point. So a single box of Surefires usually lasts...2-years or so? Put I am I thinking of adding two PolyTac 90s in each car...so I guess that would be an extra 6-batteries...Meaning I might need a new box every...12 months?

For AA/AAA I am "lazy" I just buy Energizer Alkalines from Costco. I don't find the lithium AA/AAAs to be worth the squeeze in terms of battery life and the Alkalines usually go dead quick enough that I don't worry about leakage.

[NH Shooter]

PolyTacs (and just about any other LED flashlight that runs on a pair of CR123A batteries) work just fine with 16650 rechargeable Li-ion cells. I also saw no reduction in output with my screaming yellow 275-lumen PolyTac.

[Navin Johnson]

I usually buy a $20 box of Surefire 123's every year and have stopped because I don't use them all. I have 5-7 lights that use them.

I think it is a gas verses diesel thing. People will pay the extra 10k for a diesel to get 3-4 mpg real world better milage. In other words even though 123's do cost some money for most users it makes very little difference.

My utility lights are rechargeable....side kick and micro stream. The Stiletto pro should be good but expensive.

Fore emergency or tactical use one should really only use primaries. They hold charge longer (when not in use), less fragile, and don't just shut off like many rechargeables do (they taper so you know they are getting low).

18650's will generally give you longer (and some times higher) run times than two 123's. 16650's generally give shorter runtimes ( two vs two 123's).

Re useable batteries are not toys. Buy good quality and follow directions.

And yes I do very much like foolproof CR123 batteries.

[rob_s]

Well, in the short term I have a new box of Surefire CR123s arriving today. I'm going to go the "write the date" route and see if my assessment of the drain (no pun intended) on the battery stock is accurate or not.

We had some folks over for NYE and the next morning I found two of my CR123 lights sitting out on the lawn, dead. Pissed me off, but then I thought "well, it was a party, and someone obviously had fun or fulfilled some task with this, and these batteries may well have been in here since 2017 anyway" and thought of this thread and decided status quo is the correct solution for now.

I'm kind of OCD about standardizing things. I hate the fiddle-fuck that comes from non-standardization. I've given away entire tool sets because they were a mish-mash of brands just to buy a whole new set of an identical brand. I just find it easier in the long run. So, pending the results of the CR123 date test, I'm still going to likely update all of the lights to one model, maybe two, and shelve/bin/gift what we have now. Just not anytime soon...

[BCA]

Anyone have a good recommendation for a 18650 rechargeable. Im using a 2 cell CR123A Surefire and there are so many options. Just trying to be safe regarding batteries.

edit:after some more research, it seems that 18650 are too wide for the body I am using.

[Duelist]

Anyone have a good recommendation for a 18650 rechargeable. Im using a 2 cell CR123A Surefire and there are so many options. Just trying to be safe regarding batteries.

edit:after some more research, it seems that 18650 are too wide for the body I am using.

You can have your Surefire body bored to fit the 18650. If you want to totally go over the top on it. Or buy a Malkoff body that is bored that size.

[NH Shooter]

Anyone have a good recommendation for a 18650 rechargeable. Im using a 2 cell CR123A Surefire and there are so many options. Just trying to be safe regarding batteries.

edit:after some more research, it seems that 18650 are too wide for the body I am using.

A 16650 cell will work just fine. I use these in my SF lights that will not accept an 18mm cell;

https://www.illumn.com/batteries-chargers-and-powerpax-carriers/batteries/16650-keeppower-2500mah-sanyo-ur16650zta-protected-button-top.html

https://www.orbtronic.com/16650-li-ion-battery-rechargeable-protected

[rob_s]

Found some lights in the shop. and a bag of batteries. So I guess (a) CR123 store pretty well (these have been in an unconditioned workshop for ~5 years) and (b) I shouldn't need to buy any CR123s for awhile so no need to change platforms.

I'll keep the 3.2+ tested, trash the 2.8-2.9 tested, and not sure yet about the 3.1-3.2 tested...
47055

[iWander]

After years of resisting using CR123s due to cost, I finally broke down in the mid-2000's and bought some Surefire lights. I found the quality of the Surefires was the same the Streamlights, and the Streamlights were MUCH cheaper and let me use rechargeable batteries where a Surefire would kill them. I also don't care for exposed tail buttons. I sold all my SFs and haven't looked back.

I use several ProTac Streamlights that take CR123s and have had zero issues with them. My needs are different than yours, as I need longer throws and higher lumens. My HL-X is the perfect on duty back up with a small size, well designed pocket clip, great reflector and UI, 1000L on high for traffic stops and outdoor searches, and 60L on low for vehicle and personal searches. I haven't used the 18650 for it, but plan on buying one. I always have a spare pair of 123s in my pocket as backups.

I prefer a light at or under 4" for EDC carry as I keep it in the front left pocket of my pants/shorts. I've used a Streamlight 1L-1AA for years, but am looking for one with the same rough length (4.25") or shorter, that takes CR123s or rechargeables, and at least 500 lumens. The top contenders with the UI I prefer are both from Klarus... The XT1C & XT1A. Anyone have experience with the Klarus lights?

You can find 20 packs of Energizer 123 batteries on Amazon for under $21 shipped, so the cost per unit is now on par with AAs. A 20 pack lasts a year between my handhelds and WMLs. Make sure any rechargeable batteries you purchase are protected and compatible with your light's body and spring type (ie. button or flat top, etc).

For those that use Tasers like the X2, X26, et al, the batteries for the weapons consist of two CR123 batteries and a circuit board. We replace the Taser batteries when they reach 40% or so and remove the CR123s from them. They make great back up batteries for flashlights!

[GJM]

Duel fuel Surefire Scout:

https://www.surefire.com/m640df-dual-fuel-led-weaponlight.html

[JAH 3rd]

This flashlight takes 4 of the CR batteries. I ended purchasing from Streamlight 4 18650 batteries and a charger. I now use 2 in the flashlight with 2 fully charged when the ones in the flashlight need replacing. Works out well.

[Spartan1980]

CR123s are a non-issue for me. I have several weapon lights, a Streamlight 1L-1AA, and a Fenix TK11 and TK10 (yea they're old). I just buy a box of whatever Amazon has at a decent price, usually Panasonic every couple of years. The 1L-1AA rides in my pocket as long as I'm wearing pants and is used daily. It still gets me a month per battery. CR123s last far longer than AAs and throw a lot more light. I'll keep the CR123s...

[NH Shooter]

I'll keep the CR123s...

Makes sense in many ways. I use them in my vehicle emergency handheld lights (a Streamlight PolyTac in my wife's car, an old Surefire G2 with a Malkoff LED module in my car) and in an old Surefire M951 updated with a LED module for my carbine. Being able to stick a fresh set of batteries in these lights and then essentially forget about them until needed is nice.

That said, CR123A batteries cannot support some of today's high performance (high current draw) lights. Modlite, certain Malkoff lights, etc. can only run on Li-ion cells which have far greater current capacity than the old CR123A. Even some of the "dual fuel" lights like the SF Fury DFT take a hit in performance if a Li-ion cell is not used. I suspect this is a trend that will continue to grow, and at some point may render the CR123A obsolete.

[Spartan1980]

Makes sense in many ways. I use them in my vehicle emergency handheld lights (a Streamlight PolyTac in my wife's car, an old Surefire G2 with a Malkoff LED module in my car) and in an old Surefire M951 updated with a LED module for my carbine. Being able to stick a fresh set of batteries in these lights and then essentially forget about them until needed is nice.

That said, CR123A batteries cannot support some of today's high performance (high current draw) lights. Modlite, certain Malkoff lights, etc. can only run on Li-ion cells which have far greater current capacity than the old CR123A. Even some of the "dual fuel" lights like the SF Fury DFT take a hit in performance if a Li-ion cell is not used. I suspect this is a trend that will continue to grow, and at some point may render the CR123A obsolete.

Yes, that's exactly my situation. My TK10 stays in the door pocket in my pickup. It may get used a couple times a year and it always works when it does get used. I don't have to worry about leaky AAs (or whatever other size). I have 2 streamlight LED lanterns that were damn near ruined by not very old at all Duracells bought at Sam's Club. :mad: I buy Amazon Basics for those now and have had great luck with them so far...

I'm not LEO and live in an urban setting unfortunately. If I had a more mission critical need for these lights the requirement parameters would be have to be adjusted accordingly. As it is my requirements for handheld and weapon lights are met quite nicely with CR123s.

[ST911]

You can have your Surefire body bored to fit the 18650.

Vendor recommendations?

[ScotchMan]

With regards to the rechargeable 123As, I have a Olight Baldr light/laser combo mounted on my HK45, and found that with the rechargeables in it, the light and laser would turn off about every 10-15 rounds on average. It wouldn't immediately turn back on but after doing things like opening the battery compartment and closing it again, I could bring it back to life. The same setup would stay on forever off a gun, so it seems like the .45's recoil was causing an issue.

The same light worked fine with the non-rechargeable 123As that came with the light. So in this case it seems like the rechargeables didn't like recoil.

Strangely, the same batteries in a Olight Valkyrie (light only, otherwise the same), work fine and I've never had the issue where it turns off while mounted to the .45.

So two takeaways, first make sure you test whatever setup you want to run (as always), and second, at least for me, I probably won't invest in any more Olight products (I've had other issues as well that are not related to the battery).

[Duelist]

Vendor recommendations?

Im not quite a big enough flashlight geek to have chased that rabbit down its hole, but the guys on http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/ in the Custom/Modified forum do that sort of thing, and it’s fun to read about what can be done.

[Blades]

With regards to the rechargeable 123As, I have a Olight Baldr light/laser combo mounted on my HK45, and found that with the rechargeables in it, the light and laser would turn off about every 10-15 rounds on average. It wouldn't immediately turn back on but after doing things like opening the battery compartment and closing it again, I could bring it back to life. The same setup would stay on forever off a gun, so it seems like the .45's recoil was causing an issue.

The same light worked fine with the non-rechargeable 123As that came with the light. So in this case it seems like the rechargeables didn't like recoil.

Strangely, the same batteries in a Olight Valkyrie (light only, otherwise the same), work fine and I've never had the issue where it turns off while mounted to the .45.

So two takeaways, first make sure you test whatever setup you want to run (as always), and second, at least for me, I probably won't invest in any more Olight products (I've had other issues as well that are not related to the battery).

Rechargeables can be shorter. I've had issues with a 123a rechargeable in flashlights that don't have two springs. Sometimes you can stretch the spring to make it work but not sure I'd trust it for a weapon light.