Painting Shotgun Stocks

[revchuck38]

I bought a used police trade-in 870 a few months back. It was set up as a less-lethal gun with orange furniture, including a Surefire forend. I pulled the forend off and sent it to Wilson's for their Remington Steal package and I've had it back for a month or so now. I want to paint over the orange parts of the forend and put it back on the 870. What's a good paint to use for this? I'm looking for flat black. I'm willing to go to Brownell's for the paint, but would just as soon use something from an auto parts store if that would work as well.

[rd62]

I e used Brownell's Aluma-hyde to good effect on synthetic stocks. Never tried it on wood.

[HCM]

I bought a used police trade-in 870 a few months back. It was set up as a less-lethal gun with orange furniture, including a Surefire forend. I pulled the forend off and sent it to Wilson's for their Remington Steal package and I've had it back for a month or so now. I want to paint over the orange parts of the forend and put it back on the 870. What's a good paint to use for this? I'm looking for flat black. I'm willing to go to Brownell's for the paint, but would just as soon use something from an auto parts store if that would work as well.

Is it orange furniture or was it just painted orange? If the latter it may be easier to strip the paint off.

[farscott]

If it is orange-dyed polymer, RIT black dye does a nice job of turning the orange-dyed polymer black. If it is wood with orange paint (not the case with a Surefire forearm), I would strip it and use black wood stain.

[OlongJohnson]

Pursue suggestions above first. If it's orange plastic, dying it black would probably be the best route. At worst, it might end up with a darker, "burnt FDE" look that should be just fine. There are lots of threads around on dying plastics with Rit. Different versions of Rit may yield different results. Read up.

If you decide to paint, I'm pretty sure Krylon and Rustoleum both have primers meant for polymers, which then allow you to topcoat with any of their respective products. Try out a couple different sheens of black on non-porous surfaces (porous will alter the appearance) to find the one you want before you put it on the forend.

[revchuck38]

Thanks, all! I'm going to try dying it, sounds like the easiest route. That never even crossed my mind. :)

[revchuck38]

Thanks, all! I'm going to try dying it, sounds like the easiest route.

Or not...all the info I've found involves immersing the part in the dye solution. While the light unscrews, the receptacle and switches are pretty much permanently installed. Looks like I'm going with paint.

[farscott]

RIT dye need not be applied by immersion; it can applied to the surface to be dyed using gloved hands or with brushes. I have even used small sponges like those used for bottles of shoe sole edge dressing.

[revchuck38]

RIT dye need not be applied by immersion; it can applied to the surface to be dyed using gloved hands or with brushes. I have even used small sponges like those used for bottles of shoe sole edge dressing.

This makes me wonder if shoe dye would work. It comes with its own applicator, would make things much easier. It might not since it's made for a porous material.

When you applied it with a sponge, did you use it straight from the bottle or mix it according to the directions?

[vcdgrips]

I have a “rattle can” finished Mossberg. IIRC, I taped off the stock and shot a couple of coats of a flat krylon followed by a coat of a flat sealant and called it good. The dying sound like more trouble than it is worth but admittedly, I have no experience with dying anything.

[farscott]

This makes me wonder if shoe dye would work. It comes with its own applicator, would make things much easier. It might not since it's made for a porous material.

When you applied it with a sponge, did you use it straight from the bottle or mix it according to the directions?

Mixed it as it is very concentrated.