The FN/Browning High Power-Revisited Part One

[JonInWA]

As many of you know, I've been a long-time High Power owner and user; all of mine have been .40s. The High Power (and info nugget: High Powers made, rollmarked and marketed by FN themselves are termed "High Power;" those made by FN, but rollmarked and marketed by Browning are termed "Hi Power." Guess it's an American advertising sorta thing...

Back on track. While the High Power is somewhat obsolescent in some key areas, it's hardly obselete, and still a very viable handgun, albeit one that can be improved in certain ways. I like the OEM profile of the gun, so the modifications I make tend to be internal, and grips, but there are certainly other very viable improvement options, as we've seen from Yost, Novak, Garthwaite, Williams, Sokol,and Nighthawk Custom et al.

Springs for the High Power are critical items. For years, I ran replacement recoil springs from Wolff, but over time I came to be highly suspect of them. Mine being a .40 necessitated the 20 lb spring, and the Wolff ones were suspiciously easy to install, and did not seem to maintain their tensility long; I strongly suspect that my first Hi Power (a polished blued Standard, upgraded by Kurt Wickmann at Novak's) suffered from battering incurred by a too-light Wolff recoil spring, resulting in hammer follow, necessitating a sear replacement from Browning Repair. Unfortunately, the action after the repair no longer had the superb triggerpull characteristics that Kurt Wickmann felt was the best he'd ever felt.

Until recently, I used only Browning's replacement .40 recoil springs, which were certainly up to snuff (and difficult to install, field-strip and remove...). However, I became familiar with a company called BH Spring Solutions LLC. In speaking at length with partner Mark Allen, I've pretty much ascertained the following:

BHSS seemingly came about in conjunction with the Bulgarian production of the Arcus 94, a Bulgarian clone/modification of the Mk III High Power. I suspect that they were the OEM spring producers for that gun, and then subsequently branched out, concerning themselves with replacement and improved springs for the High Power itself, CZ 75, Makarov and of course the Arcus 94s.

Essentially, they've concentrated on niche production of a better spring set for the platforms they're concerned with, and have correspondingly branched out into providing related tools, punches, grips and other similar components.

After procuring a replacement recoil spring for my Mk III .40, I was favorably impressed, and Mark Allen and I engaged in discussions. The upshot was this: They were interested my my testing and discussing their products (I was particularly interested in their new dual-stage recoil reduction buffering guide rod), but to establish a fair starting point, they felt that I should replace all the OEM springs with theirs, which I was willing to do (my original thought was just to replace the slide springs, but since everything interrelates, they really wanted me to go with the full program with the receiver as well). To facilitate this, Mark and Slav (his Bulgarian partner) provided me with the following:

-The complete BHSS .40 spring kit, providing me with a 20-24 lb recoil spring, a 30lb reduced power and a 32lb standard power mainspring, a safety lever spring, a sear lever spring, a magazine latch spring, a firing pin spring (light), and a Hi-Power trigger optimization spring kit (providing 2 strengths of trigger return springs and a reduced power disconnector spring).

-Their Master Tool Kit, which consisted of a complete set of Wilde punches, roll pin punches, a 2 punch trigger pin removal punch set, a mainspring removal/installation tool, a firing pin retaining plate removal/installation tool, a "third hand" tool (for hammer positioning facilitating both disassembly and reassembly), and a polishing cloth.

Additionally, I already had on hand a set of Lynman's standard and roll pin pistol punches, dual-headed gunsmithing hammer, and a Wheeler urethane Universal Bench Block. The bench block was essential for the project.

So, my long standing friend and shooting accomplice Rick gathered at my workshop (aka kitchen island granite countertop, with my wife's grudging acquiescence-she wisely departed on an extended shopping expedition once we were situated...) and with Stephen Camp's Hi Power disassembly guide, J.B. Wood's disassembly/reassembly guide, and BHSS's excellent YouTube guide, we proceeded onward. I'd previously field-stripped the gun, cleaned/de-lubed, and removed the grips from the receiver, so we were able to jump into things immediately.

From the onset, it became clear that a detailed disassembly of a High Power was of a significantly different magnitude of difficulty than that of a Glock (and not because a High Power has significantly more components-my .40 Mk III only has some 45 components). Some background: My High Power was obtained BNIB, and is a MX code Mk III .40, with a production date of 2003. The only changes I've applied have been recoil spring replacements, painting the sight blocks, and adding a Buffer Technologies polymer recoil spring buffer, and replacing the grips with a set of Hogue G10 checkered grips). Cleaning and lubrication was performed after each use, and my estimated roundcount on the gun is around 3,000 rounds, while I like it, it was used and carried most heavily during the last ammunition shortage, when .40 was pretty much the only quality factory stuff I could get consistently and in needed quantities at a reasonable price; this went on for about 6 months as I recall.

FN uses roll pins, which I generally despise, as they're relatively easily deformed in removal and installation-but they're pretty much the only game in town...The slide roll pins (for the sear and extractor) were very tightly installed, and difficult to remove. In fact, ALL the FN's pins, except ironically for the dreaded trigger pin, were extremely tight and difficult to remove-and that's with the proper tools on hand...(but I only needed to replace one pin in the process-the extractor pin, which fortunately I had a OEM spare on hand).

BHSS has an excellent video covering their design, intent, and replacement of all the High Power's springs-covering their philosophy, manufacturing design improvements, and the spring interrelationships. It's very helpful operationally, and in determination of the best combination of spring options to be used.

After (finally) getting successfully through the slide spring replacement process, (and I strongly appreciated and recommended their firing pin retention plate tool for firing pin, firing pin spring, and firing pin retention plate removal and re-installation a snap), we moved on the receiver.....

[JonInWA]

My Mk III .40 discussed AKA the test mule:

http://i.imgur.com/YXf9dO7h.jpg (https://imgur.com/YXf9dO7)


http://i.imgur.com/A9PxMkCh.jpg (https://imgur.com/A9PxMkC)

Best, Jon

[JonInWA]

Moving on to the receiver, and using the BHSS third hand tool and mainspring tool we found that that portions of the disassembly process was actually easily accomplished-the sear pin, sear spring, hammer assembly, and (surprisingly) trigger assembly were all removed. The mainspring tool was exceptionally useful in dismounting the mainspring, which was replaced by the slightly lighter 30# BHSS (OEM mainspring was 32#; earlier High Powers originally came with 26# mainsprings, but FN had upgraded the mainspring weight to 32# some years ago), we'll see how the lighter mainspring performs; if there's an issue, I'll switch to the BHSS 32# one. While the trigger assembly came out (the BHSS trigger removal pin punch set was absolutely superb for this), I simply was unable to dislodge the trigger return spring pin and the disconnector retaining pin spring.

At that point, I determined that things needed to be presented to an experience gunsmith, so I went to C.a.R Firearms in Kent, WA, with whom I've been very pleased with previously with work they've provided to me on my Beretta 92D and 1911s. The gunsmith was very experienced on High Power vicissitudes, and was quickly able to take care of the trigger group for me (replacing the OEM trigger return spring with BHSS's 2-coil Tactical TRS (providing a more powerful reset), and recommending removal of the magazine disconnector/safety plunger mechanism. For years, I've run all of mine with it, but he felt that it would reduce trigger creep significantly, lighten the triggerpull weight by at least a half pound, and would not adversely effect the trigger return, so for the first time, I decided to try it (especially since IDPA rules were modified several years ago to allow for magazine disconnector/safety removals without penalization, and the late Stephen Camp's endorsement of the merits of the removal).

My thoughts on the completed package:

-If nothing else, BHSS's tool are exceptionally well thought out and executed, and are a huge advantage in expediting detailed disassembly and re-assembly.

-I'm impressed with BHSS'a intent and integrated philosophy regarding their spring design, execution, and synchronization. Now I'll see how they work; initially, I'm impressed with the improved triggerpull on my High Power

-The High Power's disassembly beyond basic field-stripping and firing pin/firing pin spring removal and replacement is not for the faint-hearted, and you really need proper tools to acomplish things. For me, after a certain point, as I discussed, I needed to turn things over to a professional gunsmith to finalize the spring replacement process, particularly for the trigger group assembly.

-Have spare OEM roll pins on hand, you'll likely need them. 'Nuff said

-There was amazingly little accumulated GSR in either slide and/or receiver, and/or on slide/receiver components; the High Power is a well designed and internally sealed platform; other than for routine replacements of firing pin and extractor springs, I don't see much of a need to go into those recesses at all.

-Spring wise, I've gone with the following:

BHSS 20-24# recoil spring;

BHSS light firing pin spring;

BHSS optimized sear lever spring (which is lighter than the OEM one);

BHSS extractor spring (significantly heavier than the OEM extractor spring);

BHSS magazine latch spring (which is heavier than the OEM one);

BHSS 30# mainspring (lighter than the OEM 32# one);

BHSS safety lever spring (heavier and product-improved compared to the OEM one);

BHSS Tactical 2-coil tactical trigger reset spring.

If I do decide to re-install the magazine safety/disconnector plunger, I'll use the BHSS reduced power plunger spring.

How long did things take? Until we were stymied by the trigger group's pins, about 2-2.5 hours, and that was moving slowly, deliberately, and with frequent referrals to the various disassembly media resources that we had on hand. If the trigger pins had been more cooperative, we probably could have easily finished the entire project within 3 hours.

As I mentioned earlier, I'll be running the High Power in this weekend's IDPA match, which should give me a pretty good test as to how things work out...but to be on the safe side, I'll probably bring one of my other .40 platforms as back-up if needed...

Is the project worthwhile? Ultimately, that remains to be seen, particularly through the empirical results of actual use. BHSS makes a compelling case for programmed spring replacement intervals, and for the superiority of their springs as replacements. I already agree on that regarding BHSS versus Wolff; now we'll see how things shake out empirically on BHSS versus OEM FN.

Other potentially worthwhile esoterica of interest:

Lubrication: Grease: Lucas Red "N" Tacky #2; Oil: Weapon Shield and Lucas Extreme Gun Oil

Ammunition: Sellier & Bellot 1809 gr ball

Gunsmith: C.a.R. Firearms, Kent, WA https://carfirearms.com/

Bench Block: Wheeler Engineering Universal

Punches: Lyman (regular and roll pin) Wilde (regular, roll pin, and concave (for trigger pin removal)

BHSS sites:

Basic: https://bhspringsolutions.com/

BHSS YouTube submissions: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCH-IpEHrajIiEWM-2efORLw?view_as=subscriber

As this project progressed, I'll continue to provide comments and my feedback (as well as welcoming that of others here on p-f).

It looks like 2020 will be significantly dedicated to the SIG P320 and the FN High Power for me....

Best, Jon

[JHC]

I had two great Mk III in the 90's and divested lock stock and barrel to standardize the household (me and 2 sons) on Glocks. Glocks delivered but now, I do my best not to think about HiPowers. :D

[JonInWA]

Make that "Sellier & Bellot 180 gr ball". Best, Jon

[M2CattleCo]

You gotta hand it to 'em. They get the word out for such an obscure product.

I've seen people hawking their springs on several sites.

[DpdG]

I recently picked up an imported FEG M35 (Mk I clone) and due to its obvious heavy duty wear, preemptively got the Wolff re-spring kit. On the first day I had it, and armed with much less knowledge or experience than you, I went about replacing all the springs. Using the BHSS video, it took me about 1-1.5 hours to do the job. I used paracord to accomplish the 3rd hand portion, but without the BHSS tool I gave up on the mainspring and kept the original in use. The trigger pin was a bit of a pain, but nothing terrible using a block of 2x4 and the handle of a screwdriver as my non-marring surface for my Home Depot ballpeen hammer. I used the Wolff extra power TRS and removed the mag disconnect to very good effect. Of note- FEG seems to use primarily standard pins, not roll pins.

Unfortunately this one will likely need some sear work, as it exhibits a slight noise while click testing. Not a full “click” but still there is something there.

All in all, I think this fell under “ignorance is bliss” as although I’m a P320 armorer, I’ve never detail stripped a Glock, let alone a 1911 or even touched a Hi Power prior to this project. So far I hesitate to declare victory, but it’s fed and fired 150 rounds of 124 Geco and 100 round of AE 147 flat point without any issues. Extremely consistent ejection too. Again, sometimes it’s better to be lucky than good!

[M2CattleCo]

I don't know about FEG but FN P35/HiPower the mainspring is a lifetime part. Will likely still be too strong after the gun has returned to dust.

[DpdG]

Yeah I’m ok with how it’s turned out so far. 46056

[sparkyv]

As many of you know, I've been a long-time High Power owner and user; all of mine have been .40s. The High Power (and info nugget: High Powers made, rollmarked and marketed by FN themselves are termed "High Power;" those made by FN, but rollmarked and marketed by Browning are termed "Hi Power." Guess it's an American advertising sorta thing...

Back on track....

After (finally) getting successfully through the slide spring replacement process, (and I strongly appreciated and recommended their firing pin retention plate tool for firing pin, firing pin spring, and firing pin retention plate removal and re-installation a snap), we moved on the receiver.....

I'm surprised you prefer the 40SW BHP, not many do. As you mention, that recoil spring is stiff which makes racking the slide not for the faint of heart.. Do you care to elaborate on how you mitigate hammer bite? I bobbed mine which helped. This 40SW BHP Practical will someday go to my son. 46077

[JonInWA]

The spring refurbished, now magazine safety disconnect-less High Power shot superbly, with absolutely zero malfunctions, using harder-primered Sellier & Bellot 180 gr .40 ball ammunition throughout.

My overall match score was unimpressive, but that had everything to do with my skill-set and getting re-used to the High Power. Concurrently using the Buffer Tech buffer with the new BH SS springs, I found the trigerpull to be superb, and splits, bot freestyle and one-handed to be excellent. I particularly noticed how well I was able to shoot support-handed in one stage, with excellent (and accurate) groups.

Shot for some 4 hours in a match characterized with continuous rain (and when not shooting, I was performing as a range safety officer), the High Power performed without any hiccups whatsoever. I'm very much looking forward to achieving significant personal improvements with continued practice and applications.

Best, Jon

[MattyD380]

I shot my last steel match (which was this summer, I'm sorry to say) with my MKIII 9mm. It shot great... I shot okay--middle of the pack. Which ain't bad, I guess, considering I shoot like 3 matches a year. Like you, zero issues. The feel and the ergos of the P35 really work for me. I'm finding now that certain guns are just better suited to the small-handed--the Hi Power among them. Digging my new Kahr (which is also a great for small hands), but I'm not sure there's a gun I enjoy shooting more than my Hi Power. I wish FN would make them again.

Glad to hear BHSS's products are good. I watched a few of their videos--specifically on the SFS. I thought I'd do it on mine, but at this point I think I'm just gonna leave it stock. If it ain't broke...

[JonInWA]

Sparkyv, I have zero issues with hammer bite with the High Power, and I have medium-sized hands. On my 2 previous High Powers, I did have Novak's slightly knock off the sharp edges on the hammer spur and trigger, but my current one is stock, and I have no problems.

Regarding my preference for the High Power in .40, I like how the gun handles the 3 ox heavier slide FN came up with to tame the .40. FN really did things right in their thorough revision for the .40 models-but the 20 lb recoil spring does require significantly more effort in manipulating the slide, and in re-installing after field-stripping, but there are some easily mastered techniques, and I believe Cylider & Slide even has a tool to assist in the .40 RSA installation.

Mark Allen at BHSS has told me that while the .40 recoil spring is specced out at 20 lbs, theirs routinely test at around 24 lbs. I'm currently running mine with a Buffer Tech polymer buffer, but will probably soon compare that to BHSS's dual-action recoil spring guide. Incidentally, I believe Buffer Tech is out of business-for any interested- I obtained mine recently through DS Arms, the FN guys; they still have them in stock. Installation of the side on the frame with it when brand new requires a bit more effort, but the slide hold-open is unaffected in use. When subsequently field-stripping, it does require a bit more of a tug to free the slide from the receiver, but re-installation is without drama.

https://www.dsarms.com/p-12084-buffer-technologies-browning-hi-power-recoil-buffer.aspx

Best, Jon

[Tokarev]

Not meaning to Hi Jack a Hi Power thread...

Here's a 9mm worked over by Karl Sokol. Not an heirloom piece but rather a solid carry gun.

Merry Christmas!
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191225/fb38cb42e5be836f187f067f2ac275cf.jpg

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

[JonInWA]

No hijack perceived at all-thanks for sharing; care to elaborate on the details of the work he performed on yours? (and Merry Christmas to all!)

Best, Jon

[Tokarev]

No hijack perceived at all-thanks for sharing; care to elaborate on the details of the work he performed on yours? (and Merry Christmas to all!)

Best, JonThe pistol above is more or less his $750 package which is a fairly extensive set of mods:

Novak front and rear.
Trigger job.
Crown barrel.
Throat and polish barrel, chamber, tune extractor, deburr breech face and firing pin hole.
Fit and tune mags.
Semi-bob hammer.
Round and smooth trigger.
Stipple front and rear of frame.
Dehorn.
Bevel mag well.
Wolff 18 1/2 # recoil spring and F.P. spring.
Refinish with black Mountian Tuff.

Personal additons/changes I asked for:

Gold bead front.
Blued finish rather than paint.
Fabricate extended thumb safety.

The work took about five months which isn't the fastest turnaround. But also certainly not years as is the case with some shops.

Would I do it again? Yep.

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

[JonInWA]

Very, very nicely done. At this point, probably the only gunsmithing I'm considering in addition to my long-term testing of BHSS components would be to round and polish the trigger (or outright replace it with the newer wider-flanged trigger-with rounding/polishing done as necessary) and rounding the edges of the spur hammer; I'm not bitten by it, so no bobbing is necessary in my case.

Best, Jon

[JonInWA]

Mark Allan and Slav of BH Spring Solutions recently sent me several components to test; their Dual Stage Recoil Buffering Guide Rod Assembly (https://bhspringsolutions.com/index.php/product/dual-stage-buffering-recoil-spring-guide-rod-assembly/), RDIH Extended Slide Stop (http://www.rdih.be/hp35-slide-stop.html), and RDIH polymer fingergroove grip (http://www.rdih.be/grip-hp35.html).

http://i.imgur.com/BJmrsgNh.jpg (https://imgur.com/BJmrsgN)

I have been running my High Power with a Buffer Technologies polymer buffer, and been pretty pleased with it, but polymer buffers have a relatively limited lifespan (reportedly around 1K rounds), and will physically deteriorate with use, and can fragment/shred, potentially inducing operational issues. Additionally, I believe Buffer Technologies is currently out of business, although it's relatively easy to find their buffers BNIB at this point.

BH Spring Solutions worked in conjunction with EFK Firedragon on the component; apparently EFK had a similar earlier component, but there apparently were low sales and possibly some issues with it, so BH SS stepped in and re-engineered the component, providing 3 levels of buffering springs. The heaviest of the replaceable springs is apparently EFK's original, which provides optimal results from a buffering standpoint, but is the hardest to retract the slide with, and has a very limited lifespan, of only some 500 rounds; BH SS provides re-engineered and component optimized springs for the Medium and Light spring options; the Medium spring provides, according to BH SS, 90% for the buffering result, with a significantly longer spring replacement intervals (approximately every 2K rounds); doing the math, I chose the Medium spring.

BH SS provides a lengthy multi-page info/instruction sheet with each RSA; it's essential to 1) thoroughly read before tinkering with, 2) to have a new (or relatively new) BH SS recoil spring appropriate to your HP (my understanding is that now they're concurrently shipping an new BH SS recoil spring with each BH recoil spring guide rod assembly). BH SS is thoroughly meticulous in their guidance, instructions and philosophy in the multi-page packet provided. Two key take-outs: After experimenting and choosing your guide rod's spring strength, you then semi-permanently install and seal the end cap with either plumber's tape or blue Locktite. Once cured for 24 hours if Locktite is chosen, the plunger portion is lubricated, and the retaining ball inside the annular ring that the slide stop fits through is lubricated as well IAW BH SS instructions.

In conjunction with the new RSA, I also added the RDIH Extended Slide Stop. RDIH is the Belgian company of Leon Hubert, a long-time FN engineer who was significantly involved with the High Power in an engineering capacity, particularly in the latter stage of its history; I'm surmising from Mk III on. FN apparently allowed him to keep his patents, which have been resurrected in RDIH, and in partnership with BH SS. The Extended Slide Stop was originally designed to be used in conjunction with the SFS trigger system, but can be used with the standard High Power action. It provides two primary benefits: 1) Significantly improved ergonomics in terms of efficiently accessing and using the slide stop as a slide release, and 2) in simplifying the field-stripping procedure; with it, the slide does not need to be locked back first to effect separation of the slide from the receiver-you simply push slightly up on the ESS, and then push it out from right to left, freeing the two main components.

I found there to be several initial caveats to using the RDIH ESS: 1) It is designed primarily for 9mm Hi Powers, and if used with the larger cartridge/larger bullet .40, it's essential to file down the slide stop actuating tab, as was thoroughly explained to me by Mark Allen. It's easily done, and you simply file down the tab, retaining the OEM angle while filing, until actuating the ESS clears the bullet in the magazine. Your methodically determine this by placing a magazine with a cartridge in the magazine in the receiver (separated from the slide). You don't want to file too much of the tab down, or you'll lose the slide hold-open function, but there's plenty of material to work from-just proceed slowly and methodically. Hand-filing is recommended...

2) Once installed, the ESS is VERY stiff to initially operate. You need to ensure that you've properly lubricated the retaining ball in the RSA annular ring that the ESS fits through, and you'll need to reciprocate and release the slide some 20-25 tines before things loosen up to the point where one-handed/thumb operation is possible.

Some images of the RDIH ESS: The tab requiring filing for .40 High Powers is the shorter one:

http://i.imgur.com/oTDGH31h.jpg (https://imgur.com/oTDGH31)

http://i.imgur.com/nBEV6Mch.jpg (https://imgur.com/nBEV6Mc)

http://i.imgur.com/O3RYxkzh.jpg (https://imgur.com/O3RYxkz)

http://i.imgur.com/PDwjYE8h.jpg (https://imgur.com/PDwjYE8)

http://i.imgur.com/LPaHnKvh.jpg (https://imgur.com/LPaHnKv)

Conclusion: The RDIH ESS does afford a significant ergonomic improvement in using the slide stop as a slide release.

Best, Jon

[JonInWA]

While I was very satisfied with the Hogue G10 checkered grips on my High Power. BH SS wanted me to also try two of their grips; the polymer RDIH fingergroove offering, and one of their sculpted wood grips; as the wood ones were temporarily out of stock, the RDIH ones became first by default.

Looking at them on both the BH SS and RDIH websites, I was initially pretty underwhelmed; my fiorst though they were kind of a European variation of the Hogue rubber fingergroove grip, which I'd previously run for many years, and my first thoughts were analogous-ugly but probably operationally efficient.

The RDIH ones are available in black, FDE and white; when Mark Allen of BH SS threatened to send me a white set, I told him my testing would be fairly brief, and what part of "Mutiny On The Bounty" didn't he understand?...he relented and sent me a black set. Wise man...

The grips are designed by Leon Hubert as an ergonomic/tactical improvement over the OEM High Power grips. They're also a nice value at around $22; mine also included gratis a set of screws.

http://i.imgur.com/Y47k2qTh.jpg (https://imgur.com/Y47k2qT)

They feature aggressive/pronounced frontstrap finger grooves (or, probably more accurately, protruding finger separation strakes) and left and right abbreviated thumb shelves and are moderately, but not excessively thick:

http://i.imgur.com/O3RYxkzh.jpg (https://imgur.com/O3RYxkz)
http://i.imgur.com/9Hx61zwh.jpg (https://imgur.com/9Hx61zw)

The inset concave dot depressions appear to be aesthetic, as I couldn't derive any actual operational advantage or purpose for them otherwise. The grip polymer is an even matte in appearance, and are very nicely molded, slipping easily on the frame, with screw holes matching and no perceptible gaps present once secured. I use red computer fiber washers to help anchor the screws, preventing unscrewing from recoil vibration. Immediately underneath the lowest frontstrap fingergroove there was a bit of irritating mold flash, easily removed with an X-Acto knife. For the hipsters amongst us, think "Hogue meets Trausch" and you've got the theme.

Operationally, I'm more impressed with these than I thought I'd be. The pronounced fingergrooves provide good vertical control-the rubber Hogues may be more comfortable, but these seem to be very effective when firing, particularly at speed. The primary benefit of the vestigial grip side shelves seems to be best realized in strong-hand and support-hand only firing; for freestyle/two-handed firing, I prefer for my strong-side thumb to rest on top of the left safety lever, not the shelf. In fact, at least for my hands, the only real way to utilize the side shelf in two-handed firing is with a thumb-over-thumb grip; years ago I converted to thumbs forward positioning, and intend to remain with it-but some of you might prefer the alternative. Aesthetically, the grips provide a very business-like appearance that goes nicely with my MK III's black matte epoxy finish, for whatever that's worth. I'll definitely be running these for a period, and it'll be interesting comparing them to the to the sculpted BH SS master grips (which come in various flavors of sculpting, wood aesthetics, and checkering/artistic embellishments) (and to compare with the Hogue G10s).

My thoughts so far on the BH SS offerings is that while some aspects of their offerings are stand-alone in nature, they're better approached holistically, with first performing base-line respringing (and, as much of a pain that it can be, a complete respringing), and then adding or layering on other BH SS components. BH SS has very extensive marketing information and links to their YouTube videos on their website that I've found worthwhile (and, in some cases, frankly necessary) to delve into.
https://bhspringsolutions.com/index.php/product-category/shop-by-model/hi-power/hi-power-mkii-mkiii/; similarly, the RDIH website is also worth a trip (but be prepared for somewhat dated style graphics and colors, at least to my jaded eye...)
http://www.rdih.be/00-home.html

Best, Jon

[Jaywalker]

I'm enjoying this. I bought my Browning HiPower new in 1981. The only faults I ever noted were a draggy trigger (long since fixed) and a mushy safety which I have to glance at to verify position. Springs are always on my mind, so this thread is very interesting.

[MK11]

Great thread.

I saw the post about an extended slide stop but does anyone know of a source for a slide stop with a smaller footprint? I've never had the usual BHP issues like hammer bite but I do tend to engage the slide stop while rounds are still the magazine when shooting thumbs forward.

[JonInWA]

The OEM one has about the smallest footprint I can recall. If you're having issues with it, you may want to consider judiciously carving away the portion that interferes with your thumb; that's the approach that Dave Sevigney used back in the day with his Glock extended slide stop which seemed to work pretty well for him with that gun (a Gen 3 G34). Actually, you could likely use that approach with either the OEM or RDIH component.

I usually rest my strong-side thumb on top of the left safety lever when shooting. You might want to try the RDIH slide stop; while it seems counter-intuitive to your goal, being an extended component and all that, the actual angled shape of the thumb pad might suffice for you better than the OEM one.

I'd discuss with a gunsmith for best results; you also might want to have an instructor take a hard look at your grip/grip technique (hey, if nothing else, blame the shooter!).

Best, Jon

[JonInWA]

Yesterday, the High Power was fired in a 6 stage IDPA match, with a final round count of 123 rounds expended.

Operationally, the High Power as currently equipped was excellent, save two observations:

On two separate occasions on different stages, I had not allowed the trigger to go fully forward as necessary for fully reset. My thoughts are:

1. I'm still building up muscle memory on trigger control; on a High Power, reset is consonant with "trigger fully forward..."

2. While the 2 coil Tactical trigger return spring is certainly crisp and efficient, there's a chance that the removal of the magazine safety plunger concurrently removed some ideal trigger return pressure, which is nice to have as insurance that the reset point is expeditiously reached. I'm chalking things up to a "My Bad" on action protocol fulfillment, but its' something I'll continue to watch carefully. The two reset hiccups do lend some credibility to the credence of the magazine safety assembly providing a secondary function in providing a positive force with which to effect trigger reset...I'm not planning on re-installing the assembly currently, but it's something I'll need to pay attention to in dry-fire to build up finger positioning with which to effect appropriate trigger reset muscle memory (or if that fails, to re-install the magazine safety assembly...)

The RHID grips, as suspected really came into their own on the Single-handed stages, where both strong hand and support hand skills needed to applied. The vestigial thumb shelf levers are excellent for this.

Additionally, the RDIH Extended Slide Stop significantly aids in expediting returning the slide from slide-lock back into battery; this component alone constitutes a significant product improvement for the High Power.

For a duty/carry holster, I've switched from my Galco Royal Guard IWB horsehide as primary to my Safariland 5181 OWB paddle, for one simple reason: Blocking rear safety levers. I've noticed on the Galco Royal Guard, if I brush or rub up against a hard vertical surface on my strong side, there's a good chance that the right hand safety lever will be dislodged to disengage the safety, while it can be re-applied when the High Power is still in the holster, a simpler solution is to move to a holster with higher protective wings built into the construction of the holster's sides-which the Safariland does. Unfortunately, the Mk III banana-shaped and splayed out safety levers are significantly protrusive that more effectively shielding them is a necessity when carrying the High Power; the Safariland holster's wings do an excellent job, is eminently comfortable to carry , and very effectively in shielding the safety levers.

My match score was pretty low; the majority of my time as an SO was spent in watching like a hawk and exceptionally group of out of town gamer-oriented shooters. Nice guys, but requiring pretty total engagement with for the entire match as they were seemingly devoted individually and collectively into rules arcania. So my High Power efforts seemed to represent more of a task saturated SO then a competitive shooter.... so arguably what I performed was more of a 123 round gun proficiency exam than a truly competitive performance. Ah well...

Spoiler alert: David Barnes of VCD grips has textured/stippled a set of RHIP grips for me; they're enroute, and I look forward to using them-I'll keep my efforts, results, and suggestions posted here. http://www.vcdgrips.com/

Dave Barnes and Mark Allen, thanks for your support-Mark/Slav for providing me with a second set of the grips for the test, and Dave, for contributing your work. When they arrive, I'll post images.

Best, JonInWA

[Tokarev]

1. I''m still building up muscle memory on trigger control; on a High Power, reset is consonant with "trigger fully forward..."

2. While the 2 coil Tactical trigger return spring is certainly crisp and efficient, there's a chance that the removal of the magazine safety plunger concurrently removed some ideal trigger return pressure, which is nice to have as insurance that the reset point is expeditiously reached.

You probably know this and/or it may have been mentioned already but a decent 'smith will be able to shorten and "crisp up" the reset. At least to a certain extent.




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[JonInWA]

Yep, as I recall, there are about 3 techniques:

1. Reposition the sear assembly/sear lever (major work/expense);

2. Retain the magazine safety, but judiciously re-tailor the magazine safety's plunger spring/trigger return spring;

3. Remove the magazine safety assembly, but go to a stronger 2-coil trigger return spring-that's the route I'm currently on.

(and I realize that #2 and #3 could also be applied to #1, too...)

Best, Jon

[JonInWA]

Once I move upstream from 9mm, control of recoil forces becomes more essential-especially with .40 and .45 ACP. While .40 is hardly uncontrollable, it is significantly more difficult to harness and circumvent (or use beneficially to assist in moving the gun). It's not just a higher pressure cartridge, it's pressure spike occurs very quickly upon ignition. More lackadaisical or somewhat slipshod techniques that you might be able to get away with with 9mm becomes glaringly obvious with .40. The .40 that I use is 180 grain across the board; my carry cartridges are Federal HST, Remington Golden Sabre and Speer Gold Dot; practice/competition/range cartridge is Sellier & Bellot (with American Eagle as a fall-back if my FFL can't get me the S&B). THe S&B is clean and accurate, but tends to be on the spicy side-which is just fine with me, as it makes for an excellent analog cartridge for my carry loads.

So-my Mk III High Power is .40, so by definition I'm challenging myself intrinsically a bit, as I got a higher-power/quick pressure spiking recoil impulse to deal with However, I really like how the Hgh Power handles the .40, and the balance is excellent, particularly useful in single-handed shooting in particular. Since I'm not making things easier with my cartridge choices, I need to focus on both technique and some specific hardware choices that can materially assist me.

This falls into two items of kit: First the BH Spring Solutions Buffering Recoil Guide Rod, and second (and third), the RDIH polymer fingergroove grip-and then the RDIH grip subject to treatment by David Barnes of VCD Grips.

Today I shot a six stage ASI match; ASI (Action Shooting International) is kind of a Pacific NW "IDPA Light," with some of the leading Pacific NW IDPA shooters creating a new venue, both to provide a introduction to the action shooting sports in a less intensive and (less initially intimidating) than IDPA or USPSA, as well as an offshoot from some frustration with the incessant and sometimes arcane rules changes IDPA ventured upon several years ago. Here's a link, for those interested: https://asi-usa.org/

It was a great venue where it was easier for me to concentrate on results and technique more than getting caught up in stage strategy.

The VCD's RDIH Grips:

I became familiar with VCD Grips, as I suspect many of us here did from Todd's development and testing of of his Jason Burton 1911 Commander, which is archived at Pistol-Training.com. He discussed them at several points, but his comments here nicely encapsulate them: http://pistol-training.com/archives/7609
Due to Todd's comments, I several year ago got 2 sets from David Barnes; one for my SIGARMS GSR XO, and one for My Nighthawk Custom Talon II, and was (and remain) extremely impressed-my shooting is nowhere near Todd's skill level (but I can equal him on sarcasm and snarkiness, as we enjoyed on our email and p-f interplay), but I clearly achieved highly beneficial results with the VCD grips. A slight downside to them is that as they come, the stipping craters have fairly sharp aggressive edgs which can wreak havoc on sweaters and similar if used as a concealment garment, but they can be lightly sanded to achieve more fabric-friendly surfacing. Here's a link to VCD: http://www.vcdgrips.com/

The RDIH grips I discussed earlier are excellent, but I thought that they could be improved upon. Discussing first with David Barnes of VCD, and then with Mark Allen of BH SS, Mark provided another set of the RDIH's for David to apply the VCD texturing on; we all agreed that it was a "nothing ventured, nothing gained" sort of thing, with the possibility that the RDIH polymer, contours and thicknesses might or might not be susceptible and amenable to the VCD treatment. Essentially, we wanted to preserve the excellent pronounced fingergrooves and vestigial thumb strakes that are the essential stabilizing features of the grips, but thinking that the application of VCD texturing would provide increased grippiness and stability.

The original RDIH grip:
https://i.imgur.com/Y47k2qTh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/BJmrsgNh.jpg

The RDIH With VCD Treatment:
https://i.imgur.com/yRmG6E5h.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/D19BEFxh.jpg

Short version: They work superbly, and provided increased control and stability, but still facilitating grip acquisition and finger positioning/repositioning as needed without hindrance. They provide a nice co-existing support component to the BH SS Buffering Guide Rod, working nicely in conjunction.

And they're an excellent value; the RDIH itself is only $23, and David Barnes will apply his treatment to a set of the RDI grips foe $29, including shipping back to you. So basically, for less than $55, you're getting an excellent grip, one that I personally consider superior to Hogue's rubber fingergroove model, and easily equal to, if not exceeding the performance of G10 grips available for the High Power, most of which are around the $80 price point. One caveat: The RDIH/VCD'd grips are all about performance, with aesthetics taking a far second seat. If you're looking for a barbecue gun-worthy set of knock 'em dead appearing grips, these aren't likely to raise your interest; however for increasing High Power shooting performance, I think they're a huge value-especially in conjunction with the BH SS improved buffering shock-absorber-ish guide rod-both just flat-out work.

Best, Jon

[JonInWA]

Here are a couple more images of the "VCD'd" RDIH grips:

https://i.imgur.com/jGMDL1wh.jpg

David Barnes' attention to detail in applying his treatment is exemplified in how the treatment wraps around to the back of the grips, providing increased effective grip grasping surface areas:
https://i.imgur.com/5LTgEqyh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/r0x2iSCh.jpg

Basically, the combination of the BH Spring Solutions' Dual Stage Buffering Recoil Spring Guide https://bhspringsolutions.com/index.php/product/dual-stage-buffering-recoil-spring-guide-rod-assembly/
and the RDIH grips, particularly with the VCD treatment significantly tame the .40 recoil impulse. I was able to fire 2 and 3 shot groups quickly in a very controlled fashion, with tight groups on target.

As I mentioned before, I chose the "medium" strength BH SS spring option for my guide rod, and have been pleased with the choice, and the increased spring longevity inherent to that spring.

I did experience one failure of the trigger to reset yesterday-my bad, I failed to let it go far enough forward, and then short-stroking; the problem was immediately resolved. Increased dry-fire is building up finger positioning muscle memory to eliminate this.

Best, Jon

[Oldherkpilot]

Great thread.

I saw the post about an extended slide stop but does anyone know of a source for a slide stop with a smaller footprint? I've never had the usual BHP issues like hammer bite but I do tend to engage the slide stop while rounds are still the magazine when shooting thumbs forward.

Are sure it's the button portion of the slide stop.that is giving you the inadvertent engagement? When I transitioned to a thumbs forward grip, my HP would lock back on virtually every shot. Turned out it was the front of the slide stop (the part forward of the pin) that support hand thumb was holding down. This a single shot followed by slide lock. I was a pretty dedicated Browning man at the time so I bought a slew of slide stops and bobbed everything forward of the pin on all of them. Another alternative is a slide stop from an FEG PJK-9HP. The FEG doesn't have the large cut out in the slide so it doesn't need the "wart" on the front of the slide stop.

I have a spare slide stop that is trimmed if you'd like to try it. Just message me.

[Tokarev]

I have a spare slide stop that is trimmed if you'd like to try it. Just message me.

Would you mind posting a pic? I'm curious to see how it was trimmed.

Devel trimmed a slide stop to closely duplicate a 1911 part. I like the style but I don't like the open and exposed notch in the slide. Does it hurt anything? Probably not but I always liked the clean and enclosed look of the original.


https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200215/3747d7c98fd7a45d428d749bb9b3b2f9.jpg

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[Oldherkpilot]

Wish my Browning was half as attractive as the Devel in your post! The open notch poses no problem other than cosmetics.

[JonInWA]

Ok, some late-breaking updates:

First, as I discussed earlier in the thread, I ran into a total of 3 failures to reset when firing multiple shots on targets at 2 successive IDPA matches; essentially I didn't let the trigger go far enough forward before pulling for a successive shot. Now a part of these failures are on me-I need to practice sufficiently to build up the necessary instinctive muscle memory for shot-to-shot transitions-but there's also the factor that removing the magazine safety disconnect plunger concurrently diminished the amount of mechanical kick-back to the trigger assisting in the reset process. While I went with the BH Spring Solutions stronger 2-coil trigger return spring, clearly there were potential reset issues manifesting themselves.

I had a detailed discussion on this with BH Spring Solution's Mark Allen. He revealed to me that when FN went to the cast frame for the High Power, the slot where the trigger return spring is seated was also modified, allowing for some wallow/surplus space for the TRS's seating. While not much of a factor so as long as the magazine disconnect plunger assembly remained in place, on it's removal things could be a bit problematic. BH Spring Solutions was aware of this, and while they don't necessarily recommend removing the MDA (magazine disconnect assembly), they're certainly aware that many High Power owners do so, so they embarked on a solution.

Essentially, as you can see in the comparative images, while the new (and my understanding is that it's still experimental/not in full production) 2 coil TRS is of the same material and tensility, the bend is modified to provide a more secure seating/resistance in cast-frame Hi Powers.

Current BH Spring Solutions 2-Coil Trigger Return Spring (OEM profile):
https://i.imgur.com/ZhvtO4fh.jpg

New BH Spring Solutions TRS Optimized For Cast-Frame High Powers:
https://i.imgur.com/ssEnMNyh.jpg

My initial post-installation live-fire testing was short, but I'm very positive over this spring replacement; while trigger feel is not adversely affected (neither myself or my gunsmith, Chris at C.a.R. Firearms {the C.a.R. stands for Custom and Restoration} could not discern any difference whatsoever in trigger feel between the 2 TRS-that's a good thing), the reset was achieved without any issues or failures; I'll be wringing it out more thoroughly in a March IDPA match.

Mark Allen also wanted me to try out one of their proprietary walnut grips, which they market as HiPower Master's Grips HYBRID. They have an extensive variety of them, varying in wood quality, finish, and embellishments. Their profile and thinness has been carefully calculated for ideal ergonomics. I requested a middle-of-the-line example; I wanted one with checkering, and in a darker color to aesthetically compliment the black epoxy finish of my High Power. I mounted my set using a red computer fiber washer to anchor the grip screws to preclude backing out in use.

Here are some images of them installed:
https://i.imgur.com/kCHsFAdh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/I8nRdZwh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/rKC3UVJh.jpg

On installation, their fit is superb on my frame-it would appear that these were designed from the onset for fit with the cast frame. The feel is very ergonomic, with flowing curves and excellent proportions and thicknesses. The thumb shelf is muted, but appears to be ergonomically effective; it'll be interesting to see how it works with live-fire and under stress in a match or training situation. The grain figuring is very nice on my mid-level priced set, retail priced at $74.95 (they range in prices from $69 to $169).

Obviously, I'm very interested to see how these grips compare with the BH Spring Solutions/RDIH wrap-around fingergrooved polymer grips (and especially with the grips after benefiting from their VCD stippling treatment). My initial thoughts are that the RDIH/VCD will better handle the torquing and recoil of the .40 cartridges, but we'll see empirically how things shape out.

Chris at C.a.R. did a couple of other things at my request; the hammer sides have been slightly beveled for a more user-friendly, less sharp shape-better particularly for IWB carry, and the tip of the trigger has been given a slightly radius to be a bit more comfortable; subtle improvements, but they make the High Power incrementally improved, particularly for EDC concealed carry and protracted use. The execution was effective, and tastefully and subtly done.

https://i.imgur.com/8kVmaU8h.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/nsRsG3ch.jpg

Chris/C.a.R. can be reached here:

https://i.imgur.com/R41LvMwh.jpg

I've used them for several years for work on my 1911s, Glock 21, Beretta 92D and the High Power; their prices and work times are reasonable, and, most importantly, their quality of work and willingness to work with the customer is exceptional.

One last item for discussion; when after my live-fire session I field-stripped the High power for cleaning and re-lubrication, I noticed that the BH Spring Solution/EK Firearms Dual Buffering Recoil Spring Guide's cap (used to secure the replaceable inner spring) had slightly unscrewed, and was backed out about 1/8" . As recommended by BH SS, after the initial spring selection and verification, I had used Blue 242 Locktite threadlocker, after cleaning with isopropyl alcohol the screw and receptor thread surfaces. Apparently either the vibrations from the .40 recoil forces had broken the threadlocker seal, or I had insufficiently cleaned the concerned areas, or applied insufficient threadlocker. I reapplied the Locktite, and we'll see how it holds up. Alternatively, I'll either remove, thoroughlyn cleaning and debriding any old residue threadlocker residue, reapply fresh threadlocker, or go the alternative locking solution, using plumber's tape to lock down the cap. There was still plenty of screw length left after the loosening, and the screw only would back out so far as described and then stop, but it was still in need of correction. We'll see how it holds up.

Best, Jon

[JonInWA]

BH SS has now in fact standardized the modified trigger return spring I discussed above. Mine, in the brief live-fire, and more extensive dry-fire I've subjected it to has performed swimmingly, seemingly eradicating the sporadic reset/short stroke issue I'd experienced. The spring is optimized for the cast frame High Powers, so if you have a forged-frame High Power, or one of the clones (Arcus, FM, Kareen, et al), and you plan on replacing the TRS, I'd suggest giving BH SS a call to determine the best choice for your specific gun. And remember, the probable causal factor in my reset issues were probably 100% linked to my decision to remove the magazine safety plunger from my trigger; the plunger materially assists to a degree with the trigger reset process, by providing mechanical force against the trigger.

And, just when I was getting settled in, Mark Allen sent me the RDIH SFS kit, and a magnificent set of smooth Legacy grips; to date, I've pretty much considered the SFS option to be a bit of a solution in search of a problem, but I'm willing to give it a shot with a reasonably open mind. The kit also includes an intriguingly well thought out ambi magazine release, which uses the same space and cut-out that the OEM one does, so when I install the SFS I'll concurrently install that, if not sooner.

The Legacy grips are beautiful, and completely smooth. In the past, I've been pretty skeptical of untextured grips, especially if there's also no texturing of any sort on the frontstrap and backstrap, but according to BH SS the shaping and ergonomics of these grips are designed for your hand to fit around without looseness or gaps, effectively anchoring the gun without texturing. We'll see.

Best, Jon

[JonInWA]

I suspect that discussion grips for some of us is akin to discussing my wife's shoes and shoe selection process; intensely personal, both operationally, ergonomically and...dare I say it...emotionally/aesthetically driven.

So I'll go where wise men fear to tread-into a discussion of grips; more specifically, High Power grips.

First, the OEM FN/Browning grips: Essentially raise and dismiss items, somewhat like the OEM polymer sights on a Glock. Yes, they work. But the OWM wood grips (and their black plastic molded version, provided on FN rollmarked High Powers, and the later curved thumbrest polymer ones for the MK III guns) are relatively unergonomic, and uncomfortable. Most serious High Power users pretty quickly discard them and move to other options.

On my first Browning Hi Power, I switched first to the Uncle Mikes rubber Craig Spegel designed grips, followed by a set of custom Craig Spegel checkered Kingwood grips that Craig provided to me directly. The grain was beautiful, and aesthetically they were magnificent; but operationally they (or at least that specific set) were a bit too thin for me, and allowed my triggerfinger to protrude too far into the triggerguard; natural triggerfinger indexing on the trigger itself was awkward. I hope whomever acquired that Hi Power is enjoying, appreciating them, and fits to them better than I.

My second Browning MK III Hi Power and third (and current) FN MKIII High Power both started out with the Hogue rubber fingergroove grips. A bit aesthetically challenged (but their dull black color does integrate into the dull/non-reflectively-finished MKIII safety levers, trigger and hammer....) but operationally and ergonomically effective. Except for one thing: After years of use, and probably accumulated exposure to various cleaning and lubrication liquids, they experienced some material deterioration; not unusual to rubber-based grips over time.

So, time to move on. I've liked Hogue grips in the past, so I checked their site, and came across their "Limited Editions and Factory Seconds" room. The factory seconds are really broken down into two categories-one is products with minor flaws or non-matching sets, and the other is comprised of grips that are apparently flawless, but are a discontinued pattern, material or color. I picked up a pair of Olive/Gray checkered G10 grips for my Hi Power, and later a similar set of conventionally checkered double-diamond grips for my Colt Series 70 stainless 1911A1.

https://i.imgur.com/U4CJtV2h.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/KlzejWHh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/YXf9dO7h.jpg

I've been exceptionally pleased with these grips. They're the right thickness for me, the ergonomics are good, and the inherently chalky texture of the G10 (plus the checkering) makes for an excellent non-slip grip, despite the bald frontstrap. Aesthetically, they're handsome and compliment the High Power nicely, at least to my eye. I had no issues wit them operationally, and secured them with a computer fiber washer on/under the screws, preventing the screws from loosening under firing vibration and backing out.

ALways being willing to experiment, however, BH Spring Solutions provided me with a set of Leon Hubert's RDIH polymer grips, who's salient features are pronounced fingergrooves on the frontstrap and vestigial thumbshelves on the upper sides. Before they arrived, I was prepared to be underwhelmed, thinking them to be a sort of a European clone/poor man's version of the Hogue rubber fingergroove grip. On arrival and installation, my opinion began to change, favorably. The fingergroves are pretty pronounced; however, they're very effective in anchoring and providing effective leverage, especially useful with .40 High Powers in recoil management and providing rapid splits.

https://i.imgur.com/BJmrsgNh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/Y47k2qTh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/9Hx61zwh.jpg

However, as I discussed in previous posts on the threads, I felt there was room for improvement; discussing with David Barnes of VCD grips, he agreed to experimentally apply his stippling treatment to a set; BH SS provided me with a Coyote-colored set, which I felt would showcased the VCD treatment nicely.

https://i.imgur.com/TMtDEvHh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/D19BEFxh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/5LTgEqyh.jpg

Prior to their arrival at VCD, David was cautious; there was the risk that the grips possessed either the wrong polymer or insufficiently thick polymer for the treatment to work, but on arrival, he found them an excellent subject for the treatment. On installation, testing and operational use I find these grips to be absolutely superb, as well as being a huge value, as the total cost of the basic grips and then with the added VCD treatment is less than $60-and in my opinion you're getting one of, if not the best, particularly operationally, of the High Power grips. Essentially, the combination of the grip shape, side strakes and VCD treatment provides superb anchoring of the pistol in hand; the side strakes on the left side in a two-hand grip nicely anchor the palm directly underneath the thumb of my support hand, while the VCD stippling provides an excellent non-slip anchoring surface for the strong-hand palm and the lower back of the support hand towards the back trailing surface of the grip. On single handed shooting, the thumb resting on the strake itself (as opposed to being atop the safety lever) provides excellent lateral and steering stability-and that goes for both strong-hande only and support-hand only shooting grips.

BH Springs Solutions has developed and markets a series of walnut grips on their site, and wanted me to test several of them, which I was happy to do. Their walnut grips are both CNC milled and hand finished, and range in price from $69.95 to $74.95 for a set of the matte-finished, smooth or checkered grips, to $79.95 for the BH Signature grips (one side checkered with BH SS logo, the other with a laser-carved image of John Browning), and finally the upper-tier Legacy and Heirloom grips, which are beautifully smoothed, polished, and have multiple coats of Damar lacquer applied for preservation, sealing and durability. Finishing on both Legacy and Heirlooms is the same; the pricing differentiation/tiering is due to the representative quality of the burl graining in each grip set; set of Legacy grips is $144.95, and Heirlooms are $168.95.

In all of their grip lines, BH SS will provide grips with a lanyard cut to accommodate the OEM lanyard if desired at no additional cost.

Now here. thanks to COVID 19 shelter-in-place edicts is where the review goes into the speculative realm. Due to COVID 19, I have honestly not had any opportunity to live-fire my High Power with either of the two walnut grips BH SS has provided me, a matte walnut checkered and a beautifully finished Legacy grip set (s).

Here are the matte ones;

https://i.imgur.com/kCHsFAdh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/I8nRdZwh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/rKC3UVJh.jpg

And the beautifully burled and finished Legacy grips;

https://i.imgur.com/AzRDQNMh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/uY1oxflh.jpg

My review of these wood grips, therefor, is at this point constrained to my feelings about their fit, aesthetics and feel in dryfire practice, as range use and matches have been cancelled for the duration.

Regarding the matte hybrid walnuts grips (the "hybrid" terminology refers to how they combine a traditional High Power grip profile with the combination of shelving with grip cross-shaping; the grip bodies aren't flat, but deliberately curved to fit the palm's profile, so that the grip is efficiently cupped by the grasping hand)-they fit and feel magnificently in the hand. The intrinsic fit on the gun is strongly derived frm their internal CNC milling; apparently these grips are optimized for the latter Mk III High Power, given my sample size of one MK III; I don't know if they'll fit as well on earlier forged-frame High Powers; hopefully they do. Draw, grasping and dryfire access and control is excellent, and the grips are quite handsome on my epoxy black-finished Mk III.

The flashy, seemingly BBQ gun-oriented looking Legacy grips look great, and initially fit nicely, but until I can operationally test them, I'm ambivalent. Here's why: In his book, "The Shooter's Guide To The 1911 Pattern Pistol, on pp. 130-133, the late Stephen Camp discusses grips in detail-including one particularly resonating example of when he put on a beautiful set of smooth Maple grips on his duty 1911, however, on a heavily raining night he belatedly discovered that when he drew the gun he had no effective grip; the rain water rendered things too slippery. When I discussed this with Mark Allen of BH Spring Solutions, the reports he's had of these upper-tier smooth grips is that their shaping effectively anchors them, but for me I'll need to vet them through actual use before I feel comfortable in recommending them as operationally viable.

So-Where do I stand grip-wise regarding the High Power (and, in my case, more specifically for a heavier recoiling, quicker pressure-spiking on ignition .40 High Power)? At this point, my first recommendation, and what's physically on my High Power, are the RDIH VCD stippled polymer grips; second choice would be the Hogue G10 grips. The BH Springs Solution's matte walnut checkered hybrid grips impress me with their feel and general shape, and I suspect will do quite nicely, but I'm hesitating to fully recommend them until I've tested and vetted them through actual use in live-fire/training/IDPA competition, all of which is on hold until May or June...

The Hogue rubber fingergroove grips are undeniably effective, but my experience with rubber grips in general is that they be viewed as a disposable item. Particularly after using them for 5 years or so, I strongly suggest removing them and carefully examining them for rubber decay and deterioration, particularly on the surfaces that engage and mate with the receiver, locking and stabilizing the grips in place.

Best, Jon

[JonInWA]

Mark Allen and Slav recently sent me the complete SFS Fast Safety System, despite my previous profusely expressed feelings that it was a redundant system-a solution somewhat in search of a problem. And yet they still sent me one...Probably hoping COVID 19 cabin fever would instill within me an attitude of willing experimentation...we'll see. I'll probably install it, just because it'll give me insights into this system, if nothing else. And COVID 19 cabin fever...

However, also in the kit is Leon Hubert's intriguing Ambidextrous Magazine Catch Assembly. Installation is exactly the same as the OEM part. However, there's a lever/catch/kickplate that can optionally be installed on the right side of the release, which enables the magazine release to be activated from either side. The piece simply slides into a groove on the release assembly; so you have the choice with the RDIH product of having either a "normal" magazine release button on the left side of the gun, or the kickplate on the right side; when the kickplate is pushed down on, it cantilevers the magazine release outward; the part moved down vertically and physically pulls the catch out, releasing the magazine.

Essentially, it simply uses a mechanical advantage to accomplish the same thing that pushing the release button on the gun's left side does.

https://i.imgur.com/T5wjjh6h.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/7lN2OYgh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/w2i3B4ch.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/L4OPgozh.jpg

For all my earlier whining about the relative difficulties in detail disassembling a High Power, The magazine release assembly is exceptionally easy to remove and reinstall (ot to install a replacement assy). The RDIH assembly is as easy as the OEM one to install (as it should be-Leon Hubert is a former FN engineer specializing on the High Power).

At first, I was concerned that the kickplate might be too protrusive, too sharp, too easily inadvertently assessed; in actual use, none of these concerns has come to fruition. I like it to the extent that its become a permanent installation on my High Power. Ergonomically it just works, giving you another physical tool in the toolbox for reload situations, particularly for lefties and those wanting to achieve the quickest magazine dump and reloading. Like an extended slide stop on a Glock, it's a surprisingly useful and easy to use piece of kit-I recommend it.

However, there is one minor philosophical schism in BH Spring Solutions world between their replacement spring for the OEM FN magazine release spring and the RDIH component: BH SS's philosophy is that the spring should be stronger, to minimize the possibility of an inadvertent magazine release, but the RDIH release assembly is made with a weaker spring, probably to better facilitate the activation of the kickplate on the right side if it's chosen to be the release activator. In reality, I find that both work-the BH SS spring isn't inordinately heavy, and the RDIH one isn't inordinately light; the spring weight differentiations are probably more in degree than in kind.

Best, Jon

[Medusa]

The mag release issue is the biggest single reason this left hander has never ponied up for a hipower. I’ve seen these type of setups before, but yours is the first review I’ve seen. Interesting though at this point I can’t see acquiring a hipower when the 92s suit me so well.

[JonInWA]

The mag release issue is the biggest single reason this left hander has never ponied up for a hipower. I’ve seen these type of setups before, but yours is the first review I’ve seen. Interesting though at this point I can’t see acquiring a hipower when the 92s suit me so well.

But I've taken away your excuse, in case COVID 19 Sheltering-In-Place has you trolling the auction sites and you just happen to stumble on a bright, shiny High Power yearning to be adopted into a new home...

Best, Jon

[Tokarev]

...COVID 19 Sheltering-In-Place has you trolling the auction sites...

The Corona thing has been a disaster for me financially. Good for my reloading supplies and for accumulating spare parts I'll never use...



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[Chuck Whitlock]

I suspect that discussion grips for some of us is akin to discussing my wife's shoes and shoe selection process; intensely personal, both operationally, ergonomically and...dare I say it...emotionally/aesthetically driven.

So I'll go where wise men fear to tread-into a discussion of grips; more specifically, High Power grips.

First, the OEM FN/Browning grips: Essentially raise and dismiss items, somewhat like the OEM polymer sights on a Glock. Yes, they work. But the OWM wood grips (and their black plastic molded version, provided on FN rollmarked High Powers, and the later curved thumbrest polymer ones for the MK III guns) are relatively unergonomic, and uncomfortable. Most serious High Power users pretty quickly discard them and move to other options.

On my first Browning Hi Power, I switched first to the Uncle Mikes rubber Craig Spegel designed grips, followed by a set of custom Craig Spegel checkered Kingwood grips that Craig provided to me directly. The grain was beautiful, and aesthetically they were magnificent; but operationally they (or at least that specific set) were a bit too thin for me, and allowed my triggerfinger to protrude too far into the triggerguard; natural triggerfinger indexing on the trigger itself was awkward. I hope whomever acquired that Hi Power is enjoying, appreciating them, and fits to them better than I.

Excellent post, Jon.

On my first Hi-Power, a MK-III in .40, I also had the factory polymer grips swapped out for the UM Spegel copies.




However, also in the kit is Leon Hubert's intriguing Ambidextrous Magazine Catch Assembly. Installation is exactly the same as the OEM part. However, there's a lever/catch/kickplate that can optionally be installed on the right side of the release, which enables the magazine release to be activated from either side. The piece simply slides into a groove on the release assembly; so you have the choice with the RDIH product of having either a "normal" magazine release button on the left side of the gun, or the kickplate on the right side; when the kickplate is pushed down on, it cantilevers the magazine release outward; the part moved down vertically and physically pulls the catch out, releasing the magazine.

While I personally have no interest in the ambi kickplate, I will note that my above-mentioned Hi-Power, being carried IWB in the coastal south Texas heat, would develop rust between the frame and mag catch from sweat, and I had to routinely remove the mag catch to clean it out.

[That Guy]

when the kickplate is pushed down on, it cantilevers the magazine release outward; the part moved down vertically and physically pulls the catch out, releasing the magazine.

Colour me intrigued.

In actual use, how similar or dissimilar does the kickplate feel like when compared to a normal push-button magazine release that has been flipped around for left-handed use?

[JonInWA]

It's a little different, becaust of the downward mechanics/activitation motion, but it's easily accomplished and required relatively few repititions to establish effective muscle memory.

Best, Jon

[Joe in PNG]

I've gone on and joined the HP Club.
Photos to follow once I pick it up- seems the fact that everyone is buying guns makes it hard to get the background checks done.

[entropy]

Congrats!

Everyone needs a BHP. Or two....

[JonInWA]

A quick update: I have had an opportunity to square-range fire the High Power with the BH Springs Solutions' checkered matte walnut hybrid grips, and I liked them; however, the grip screw did loosen after around 50 rounds of firing, even with the red fibre washer, so the fibre washers have been yanked out and replaced with Challis rubber O-rings underneath the grip screws.

At this point, my High Power grip of preference for operational carry and use remains the RDIH grips with the VCD stippling treatment-and I'm using Challis O-rings with their grip screws as well to mitigate against screw loosening and backing out. Even if the screws do loosen on the RDIH grips, due to their wrap-around fingergroove frontstrap configuration they're less likely to have any slippage even if the screw(s) loosen and back out to a degree.

I'll have the opportunity to use the High Power in an IDPA match in a couple of weeks; BH SS has some additional prototype gear they'd like me to test, so I'll likely do that, provided they arrive and can be installed and tested prior to the match-I'll report on it appropriately. Yeah, that's a teaser....

Best, Jon

[Joe in PNG]

I've gone on and joined the HP Club.
Photos to follow once I pick it up- seems the fact that everyone is buying guns makes it hard to get the background checks done.

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[Joe in PNG]

It came with VZ grips installed, so that's nice. It's also got express sights- which I may keep, depending how we do at the match this week. Trigger safety was already removed.
It's obviously been refinished, but it's a decent job.
SN is 111XXX, so a 1962 date according to the Browning website.

So far, I like it.

[Joe in PNG]

Got an ambi safety, Mec-Gar 15's, and a Wolff service spring pack on the way.

[Joe in PNG]

I'm wondering if the slide has an NP3 coating?
How would I tell if it was? It does feel pretty dang slick.

[entropy]

Nice!

Check out Jack First for other parts if needed.

The most natural pointing auto ever made. The Grace Kelly of auto pistols.

[JonInWA]

I'll recommend you use BH Spring Solutions for replacement springs; they recommend a holistic approach with springs-replacing all of them in one fell swoop, which actually makes a lot of sense, and their spring kits aren't very expensive. Their site is well worth a detailed stroll through, as is the late Stephen Camp's, highpowersandhandguns.com.

Best, Jon

[entropy]

Thanks on the above advice as well. They’ve sat idle for a while, and it appears in the meantime there are places that have stepped up to address some of the issues with them...like springs.

[fatdog]

Picked up this Mk II from the Mach 1 guys in Knoxville. Mechanically solid but cosmetically a bit rough. Sending it off to Bob Cogan at Accurate Plating and Weaponry on Monday. He is a pretty decent gunsmith for the HiPower and did my last few BHP projects. He is an outstanding refinisher if you want hard chrome, which I do. When it comes back later this summer I will post the "after" pics. I am happy to get this project on the road.

It will get front and back strap stippling, a new C&S no bite hammer and sear, full set of new springs, new grips, lanyard ring removal, and he will mill off the front and cut a set of front and rear Novak dovetails for a set of Warren Tactical sights. I have not decided on the new grips, but probably some nice species of fully checkered wood.

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[entropy]

Nice. I love the MkII’s with the drain hole and snout. IIRC, my MkII came from the same place a number of years back. Went to Novak’s for some sights and minor slide work. If you’re interested, I’ll buy that lanyard post and ring from ya! I have a hankering to put mine back on. Yes....please keep us posted!

[Tokarev]

Picked up this Mk II from the Mach 1 guys in Knoxville. Mechanically solid but cosmetically a bit rough. Sending it off to Bob Cogan at Accurate Plating and Weaponry on Monday. He is a pretty decent gunsmith for the HiPower and did my last few BHP projects. He is an outstanding refinisher if you want hard chrome, which I do. When it comes back later this summer I will post the "after" pics. I am happy to get this project on the road.

It will get front and back strap stippling, a new C&S no bite hammer and sear, full set of new springs, new grips, lanyard ring removal, and he will mill off the front and cut a set of front and rear Novak dovetails for a set of Warren Tactical sights. I have not decided on the new grips, but probably some nice species of fully checkered wood.

57468
57469Looks pretty good. A little wear but overall condition looks solid.

I should get a MKII while they're still pretty easily available.

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[fatdog]

If you’re interested, I’ll buy that lanyard post and ring from ya!

Happy for you to have it when it comes back as parts....just send me me your mailing address and hopefully I will remember where to send it in a couple of months....

[Jaywalker]

It will get front and back strap stippling, a new C&S no bite hammer and sear, full set of new springs, new grips, lanyard ring removal, and he will mill off the front and cut a set of front and rear Novak dovetails for a set of Warren Tactical sights. I have not decided on the new grips, but probably some nice species of fully checkered wood.


I had my first BHP grip stippled and regretted it. Stippling gives you a good grip but made it impossible to prevent corrosion. On my current one I use adhesive grip- or skateboard tape. I can peel it and keep it clean and protected, then re-apply.

[entropy]

Perhaps not so much for stippling, but certainly for checkering, the front straps on the BHPs are notoriously thin. There’s a lot of guys that won’t even touch it.

I’ve done the same with the 3M traction tape. It works great.

[fatdog]

Stippling gives you a good grip but made it impossible to prevent corrosion.

Probably true if you leave the gun in a blued state. However followed by hard chrome, no corrosion, no problem. I have had 4 done followed by hard chrome or Cerrracote over the last 20 years and there are not problems with corrosion on any part of the guns. That is in AL heat and humidity.

[Tokarev]

Stippling gives you a good grip but made it impossible to prevent corrosion.

I dribble a little oil on a GI toothbrush. Wipe off the excess and then scrub the stippling until well oiled. Seems to work okay.

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[fatdog]

57468
57469

Back from Bob Cogan at Accurate Plating & Weaponry (https://apwcogan.com/). Nice 4.25lb trigger, custom front sight to match the Warren rear that he filed and test fired for me to POA/POI at 25 yards with 147gr Gold Dots. Bob is quick to cite C&S or the late Jim Garthwaite as the BHP masters, and the places he gets his parts, but he is no slouch doing these guns. Mine got turned fast either because his shop is running so efficiently or because I have been a steady 25 year customer and he pushed my project ahead of some others. Either way, thrilled to get this one back. Silk purse from a Sow's ear and all that.

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[Oldherkpilot]

Back from Bob Cogan at Accurate Plating & Weaponry (https://apwcogan.com/). Nice 4.25lb trigger, custom front sight to match the Warren rear that he filed and test fired for me to POA/POI at 25 yards with 147gr Gold Dots. Bob is quick to cite C&S or the late Jim Garthwaite as the BHP masters, and the places he gets his parts, but he is no slouch doing these guns. Mine got turned fast either because his shop is running so efficiently or because I have been a steady 25 year customer and he pushed my project ahead of some others. Either way, thrilled to get this one back. Silk purse from a Sow's ear and all that.

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58690

I may carry a P30 but i will always consider the Hi Power the belle of the ball! Congrats!

[Joe in PNG]

I've been carrying mine the last couple of weeks.

[entropy]

Wow. That came back fantastic. Get to stretch it out yet? Report please!

[Chuck Whitlock]

That is simply gorgeous, Fatdog!

Once the deep bluing on mine wears down, I'm envisioning something similar.

[JonInWA]

Fatdog, that is magnficent. Great collaborative conceptualization and execution-the grips beautifully match the work and finish. Let us know how it shoots in.

The Warren Tacticals are a great sight choice-how did you decide which ones would be the best to choose? I've found Scott Warren to be exceptionally helpful in the past, and I'm a big proponent of his sights, too.

Best, Jon

[fatdog]

The Warren Tacticals are a great sight choice-how did you decide which ones would be the best to choose?

Thanks, I am on my way to the range to verify the zero and start to wear in the chrome, but my assumption is it shoots about as well as it did before the trip to the gunsmith, which I would call Hi-Power average, very reliable, but probably a 3-4" group at 25 yards at best. I am sure I will do a letter better with the sights and trigger work.

My gunsmith was going to have to cut both dovetails, and he just told me to go with the Novak standard 1911 version, plenty of room to acomodate those size dovetails front and rear in a BHP and if I ever changed my mind, easy to find many different sets to fit the same dovetails.

This is actually the third BHP slide that Bob Cogan has done for me with the Novak dovetail Warren set. On this set he decided to use a Novak blank he had for the front and really dial it in for me.

He also wanted to sent it to Tooltech and get the front sight lamped but I declined, it is no longer all that important to me to have that tritum front. Before all that he tried to convince me to let him put a Dawson fiber optic front, which I also passed on.

[fatdog]

Get to stretch it out yet? Report please!

I gave it over 350 rounds of 147gr JHP, all Speer G2 "rejects" that I got for dirt cheap in early 2019 and only use for proving and testing. No malfunctions. Accuracy, I could better describe it as just slightly more accurate than my Mk III, (turn of the century manufacture) as I had it along and did a little slow fire side by side. I passed all of my personal benchmarks for "being fit to carry the gun". Vickers/Hackathorn bullseye test, Rangemaster Instructor Q, Werner dot drills.

I did a slow fire sequence at 10 yards on a 4" dot and was able to keep 100% of two magazines in the dot. At 7 yards I did a slow fire on a 2" dot and kept about 75% in or touching the dot. That is about as accurately I can shoot anything this side of a Sig P210. The accuracy of this gun is acceptable.

Three things that stand out to me. First, these Belgian Mk II's are supposedly imported from Israel where they were allegedly police and prison guard guns. Everything about the one I have screams carried and handled a lot but shot very little. Everything is tight, the finish was awful when I received it but that got fixed.

Second the C&S hammer/sear combo, all new springs, along with Bob Cogan's attention yielded probably the best HiPower trigger I have ever had. I swear I can even hear/feel detect the reset on this thing, although I remain convinced that press and flip is the right way to shoot a HiPower. When I got back from the range I checked the trigger again and it is breaking 4.5 +/- every time.

Third, the Warren sights make a HUGE difference to me. I have them on a number of other guns including my 1911 tribe. Being able to get that bigger sight picture takes the BHP to a new level for me and no doubt contributes to my ability to shoot it more accurately than a factory base model.

[Joe in PNG]

Got to show off mine with the Karma grips from Fatdog:

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[TheNewbie]

Got to show off mine with the Karma grips from Fatdog:

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How do you like that manual safety? Is that after market?

[Joe in PNG]

How do you like that manual safety? Is that after market?

It's the Cylinder and Slide model, and much better than the tiny nub that came from the factory.

[rathos]

has anyone here converted a .40 to a .357 sig? I was given a HP .357 sig barrel 10 years ago when buddy closed his gun shop. I recently found an unfired .40 HP. I hate .40 but if I could get it to run with .357 sig it might be worth it. I just don't know if the gun itself could handle it.

[JonInWA]

There have been some good discussions of it on the 1911forum.com in the High Power portion; consensus seems to be that the .357 SIG barrels need to be professionally fitted, but work fine in a cast-frame .40 MK III.

And, in times of the critical ammuniition shortage such as we're experiencing, it's interesting to note that .357 SIG is still relatively easily obtainable (at least in my neck of the woods (Seattle metro area), albeit expensive-I've paid from $23 to $32 for a box of 50. Best cartridges seem to be Sellier & Bellot, Fiocchi, and SIG for ball, and Speer Golt Dots and Hornady for defensive carry.

Given the price of .357 SIG, I don't know or haven't heard of anyone running it extremely extensively, so I probably wouldn't pour thousands of rounds through a High Power with it, but it sounds like generally speaking the .40 is beefed up sufficiently for it for at least moderate use.

Best, Jon

[JonInWA]

For the past several years, BH Spring Solutions has been methodically whittling away at characteristics of the FN/Browning High Power that constrained its performance compared to more contemporary pistols. Their key approach has first been to approach spring improvement and replacement from a holistic standpoint, and then to both concurrently and sequentially offer improved components and tools to also improve the use and user friendliness of the platform. As we've seen here, using my FN .40 Mk III High Power, I've had an opportunity to experience and share my opinions of their approaches and components.

Recently, I was provided two prototype BH Spring Solutions component sets-an improved trigger system, and a magwell/grip combination.

Here's the High Power with them installed:

https://i.imgur.com/f5tkedsh.jpg

The trigger system was intriguing-it's comprised of a broad-flanged trigger (with upcoming otions including serrated, smooth, or gold-plated-mine is the serrated version), a revised set of trigger return springs (I choose the heavier "tactical" variant), and a geometrically revised trigger lever). There is also an optional magazine "pusher" spring which I discussed with BH partner Mark Allen, he recommended I not install it, at least initially, as it would be a bit superflous to mine, as my magazine disconnect has been removed, and magazines are now drop-free; it might be beneficial to those electing to retain the magazine safety system, however.

The key to the system is the revised trigger lever, which changes the position and angle at which the trigger pull induces the lever to push on the sear lever, which then activates the sear to release the hammer. Historically, some advanced gunsmiths had provided a revised triggerpull was by physically reloacating internal components, resulting is a second hole being drilled through the slide to revise the sear lever's positioning. The BH Spring Solution's approach has been to favorably alter the geometry of the trigger lever, incorporating a 90 degree lateral "jog" in the lever before it goes into its vertical ascent, enabling a repositioning of where it physically impacts on the sear lever, providing an improved action-in terms of both trigger pull and hammer release. It provides a very nice, smooth, grit-less pull, with the wall and release being crisp and distinct.

https://i.imgur.com/W5dg8zPh.jpg



The trigger pad incorporates a flange, similar to the later flanged triggers FN provided to High Powers in the latter years of production, but to my eye this flange is broader (but does not protrude outside of the trigger guard's parameters). My trigger is serratated, but the serrations are neither sharp nor objectionable, and the increased finger pad area is an improvement over the original FN narrow trigger, both in terms of feel and control.

https://i.imgur.com/ro536msh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/XU4sAN2h.jpg

I did have my gunsmith, Chris at C.a.R in Kent, WA install the trigger system. He did need to mill about five thousands of an inch off the trigger sides to obtain a smooth trigger fit with no interfearance or rubbing against the frame, but otherwise he found the installation to be very straightforward. He, as does BH SS, recommends some gentle polishing and rounding of the components; BH SS has a good video in the works thoroughly covering installation and nuances of the kit.

Next is an ingeniously designed drop-in magwell assembly. The magwell itself is aluminum, and slides on the lower receiver, and is retained by the aluminum grips, which feature smooth polished and lacquered wood inserts, similar to some of the high end grip options offered by BH SS.

https://i.imgur.com/rS6QGnzh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/6HYdzTbh.jpg

The magwell set is one of two prototypes in the country-the other one is in the alternative black finish.

The assembly consists of 4 components-the magwell, 2 aluminum grips with wood inserts and with screws, and magazine basepads. That's it. Absolutely no frame, finish or gunsmithing required for installation, altough to get the best final fit, a nylon hammer is recommended to tap the magwell in place after intially positioning on the receiver, and then securing by installing the grips.

Some caveats: The magwell kit absolutely requires the provided extended basepads, and magazine tubes with the "mousetrap spring" will not work, nor will OEM High Power basepads-they simply won't fit in the magwell. BH SS was only able to provide me with 2 of the kit extended basepads, but I decided to campaign the gun in an IDPA match, figuring that with 21 rounds available (my .40 magazine capacity is 10 rounds per magazine), I could effectively compete, with the potential for each stage in effect being a "Limited" stage for me-shooting simply the proscribed minimums per target, with no, or very, very limited spare shots available).

The upshot (no pun intended) was that I did just fine capacity-wise. I don't recall ever shooting both magazines to completion, so that aspect of the match went just fine. I really like the two improvement areas; triggerpull was smooth and controlled, and a major hinderance to the High Power's capabilities (a constrained speed reload capability due to the square and unbeveled original receiver magwell shape) has been exceptionally improved upon by high quality a drop in, bolt-on assembly.

Aesthetically, I prefer a High Power in it's original configuration regarding the magwell, but that's me (and my opion might be revised when I have a chance to see it with the black magwell kit)-and operationally reloads are massively improved with the improved magwell assembly. The trigger kit is superb, and ingenious.

I'm impressed, and will continue to test in upcoming matches and use.

Best, Jon

[Chuck Whitlock]

has anyone here converted a .40 to a .357 sig? I was given a HP .357 sig barrel 10 years ago when buddy closed his gun shop. I recently found an unfired .40 HP. I hate .40 but if I could get it to run with .357 sig it might be worth it. I just don't know if the gun itself could handle it.


There have been some good discussions of it on the 1911forum.com in the High Power portion; consensus seems to be that the .357 SIG barrels need to be professionally fitted, but work fine in a cast-frame .40 MK III.

And, in times of the critical ammuniition shortage such as we're experiencing, it's interesting to note that .357 SIG is still relatively easily obtainable (at least in my neck of the woods (Seattle metro area), albeit expensive-I've paid from $23 to $32 for a box of 50. Best cartridges seem to be Sellier & Bellot, Fiocchi, and SIG for ball, and Speer Golt Dots and Hornady for defensive carry.

Given the price of .357 SIG, I don't know or haven't heard of anyone running it extremely extensively, so I probably wouldn't pour thousands of rounds through a High Power with it, but it sounds like generally speaking the .40 is beefed up sufficiently for it for at least moderate use.

Best, Jon

As Jon has mentioned before that the .40 BHP's convert nicely to 9mm, this would be a much more elegant 3-caliber option than any Glock.

[JonInWA]

After installation, extensive dryfiring and a live fire exercise, capped with participation in 2 IDPA matches, the extended magwell kit is enroute back to Mark and Slav at BH Spring Solutions (The prototype trigger kit will remain in, for long-term {and likely permanant} testing and use). Here are my thoughts and conclusions to date (and with appreciation to Mark and Slav for allowing me to wring it out the very rare (only 2 in country at this point) prototype magwell kit over an extended period):

https://i.imgur.com/rS6QGnzh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/f5tkedsh.jpg

-The magwell kit is very effective and truly is a non-gunsmithing slide on, bolt in application. It does not damage the receiver frame, both structurally or finish-wise during installation, use and removal.

-You really need a nylon hammer to tap both the magwell and the supplied basepads into place.

-The magwell, at least in the prototype form that I tested will not allow for magazine tubes with a mousetrap spring, and absolutely necessitates use of the supplied extended basepads

-Using a standard magazine with a regular baseplate does not allow the magazine to be inserted high enough in the receiver to allow the magazine latch to click in, similarly, the topmost cartridge cannot be reached by the slide stripper rail to chamber. The fly in the ointment is the OEM baseplate; it's slightly protrusive front lip projection blocks sufficient insertion into the receiver with the magwell installed

-The supplied extended aluminum basepad's bottoms are flush with the extended magwell bottom when seated, and have minimal texturing-more decorative than effective. When executing a tactical reload during one of the matches, with the partially expended magazine in my hand along with the reload magazine, I exerted insufficient force on the reload magazine to sufficiently allow it to be locked in by the magazine latch. I strongly recommended that a more aggresive texturing be applied to the bottom of the basepads, and that they be physically extended so that they protrude beyond the magwell's bottom plane to allow for more positive reloading; I'm pleased with the Check-Mate produced SIG contract magazines for the P320, which I'm concurrently testing-they both have a very aggressive diamond-checkering incorporated in the basepad botom, and protrude beyond the plane of my P320 X-Carry frame:

https://i.imgur.com/asfBqAYh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/7jkm88Oh.jpg

-I think it would be pragmatic to have some thumbnail niches incorporated either into the sides or front of the magwell to facilitate a leveraged removal of magazines that are stuck in the gun, as can happed during a double-feed malfunction.

-The magwell kit will largely appeal to the Mk III High Power owner who participates in IDPA/USPSA or similar. Operationally it's superb, asthetically, it can be a bit jarring to High Power collectors fixed on the OEM appearance of the High Power.
A number of extremely experienced shooter whom I let handle the High Power with the Magwell/Grip combination were uniformely impressed, especially with the ergonomics and feel of it.

In use, I'm extremely impressed with my gunsmith, Chris at C.a.R. who applied his talents to fitting and working the prototype trigger in mine; other than having to mill approximately a five-thousandths of an inch off the trigger on both trigger sides to allow proper fit without rubbing/abraiding the frame, he relayed that the instasllation was uneventfu-thanks to BH SS's production quality and Chris' skill with fitting and finishing the trigger components. Triggerpull is beautifully crisp and controllable; reset is "traditional High Power reset," letting the trigger go fully forward to achieve reset.
https://i.imgur.com/R41LvMwh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/XU4sAN2h.jpg

Custom holster maker Wes Dahl of Privateer Holsters contributed a beautiful, and exceptionally operational two-tone Hermann Oak leather holster to the project; it's an uncataloged version of this Highwayman OWB, a mid-height OWB with an additional lower belt slot incorporated to facilitate cross-draw carry that he wanted me to try.
https://i.imgur.com/V6VqYVeh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/WzjCNd5h.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/ZU2OhhUh.jpg


The boning and fit is impeccible; in our discussions he recommended the two-tone Walnut brown and Black finish, as the High Power will be normally equipped with a BH SS RDIH/VCD textured FDE grip, or a brown walnut BH SS Hybrid grip; I'm exceptionally pleased with it both operationally and aesthetically, and it has become my designated project primary holster for carry and competition. While I generally prefer kydex holsters, for a blued gun, or an epoxy black finish that the High Power Mk III has, I prefer leather and/or horsehide-especially for a classic gun such as the High Power-it just looks (and feels) "right."



Next to come: Installation of the RDIH/BH Spring Solutions SFS trigger system...



Best,

[JonInWA]

Mark Allen of BH Spring Solutions is an exceptionally knowledgeable, and exceptionally persistant guy. As many of you know, I'm actively collaborating with them with many of their offerings and improved components for the High Power, specifically with my MK III .40.

Mark has been regaling me/nagging (in a friendly way) for about a year about how I might want to install the SFS. Equally persistantly, I said "No." Repeatedly. I simply didn't see the merit in it for me, and in fact many of the improvements he touted it provided were in fact already in place on mine without going the SFS route.

Mark, being Mark, in spite of my reluctance, simply shipped me an SFS kit, the mid-level Tactical one, which included the SFS conversion and an ambidexterous magazine release system. On it's arrival, I laughed, called Mark, and thanked him for the new desk ornament he sent me-but I was intrigued by the ambi magazine release, which I promptly installed, and has remained on my High Power.

https://i.imgur.com/VsXBCD1h.jpg

Until recently, the SFS kit languished on my desk. However, Mark's continued advocacy gradually seeped into me, and, I agreed, at least out of fairness and the desire to gain some hands-on experience with it to install it on my High Power, which I did after concluding my testing and evaluation of the BH Spring Solutions prototype magwell system.

Why was I reluctant? Well, many, if not most of the advantages to be derived from the installation of the BH SS SFS kit have already been accomplished via installation of earlier BH SS components-My High Power already had incorporated the BH SS complete spring upgrade, with all the OEM springs replaced (except for the sear spring-more on that in a bit), so I had the 30# mainspring, improved trigger action/triggerpull achieved with their prototype trigger action system revision kit, the improved RDIH extended slidestop (providing a more ergonomic slidestop as well as simplifying field-stripping), the ambi magazine release and several varieties of BH SS grips.

Plus, to me, the High Power is a classic firearm, and while mine didn't have the older ring hammer, I liked the appearance of the contemporary OEM spur hammer. I'm not afflicted by hammer bite from it, and my gunsmith, Chris at C.a.R Firearms, had beveled the sides and back of the hammer and then refinished it for me to make it a little more user friendly and comfortable, especially for IWB carry. Conversely, I simply didn't like the aesthetics of the SFS abbreviated spur hammer profile-I thought it looked a bit goofy, life a serif font letter.

https://i.imgur.com/6DdEruNh.jpg

So, you can correctly deduce that while I was committed to being openminded and objective about the SFS system, my inclination was that it would be an install, objectively and subjectively test and evaluate, and then remove and re-install the OEM action system (another great thing about most of the improved components BH Spring Solutions provides is that they're structurally unobtrusive; if you don't like them, you simply un-install and reinstall the OEM components, as their installation required zero physical modifications or alterations to the pistol itself, at least concerning the components I'm concerned with (there is a BH SS Picatinney rail system kit available that does require drilling and tapping the frame, but I'm not gonna go that route personally). Suffice it to say my initial advocacy of SFS was pretty low; while I didn't perceive it a a blandisment on John Browning per se, I didn't really think it was necessary, at least for me.

Mark and Slav at BH SS provide a holistic approach to the SFS system, as they do with most of their offerings. On the system spec sheet, they provide a detailed list of 20 benefits to be derived from the BH SS SFS system;
https://bhspringsolutions.com/index.php/product/fast-safety-sfs-v2-0-tactical-for-hi-power/

From what I can derive, the SFS system was designed in-house by FN engineers, specifically with engineer Leon Hubert as the primary designer, in the 1980s, to make High Power organizational sales more viable to organizations who were reluctant to go with a pistol that was most effective in a cocked-and-locked mode, with the hammer visibly cocked back. Similarly, there was resistance growing to choosing or sticking with a single-action platform, as the 1980 was the start of the explosive proliferation of the DA/SA action, which many organizations saw as intrinsically safer (to both the operator and the public). The SFS system provides a partially pre-cocked hammer, stored/holstered in "hammer down" mode; if needed, the pistol is drawn, taken off safe, upon which time that deactivating the safety lever concurrently cocked the hammer mechanically-it simply flips back to the cocked position when deactivating the safety lever, and is ready to fire in the SA mode. To decock, you simply (literally) push the hammer forward, which de-cocks the gun, as well as mechanically automatically moving the safety levers into the "on safe" mode. Apparently, upon his retirement from FN, Leon Hubert was allowed to take his SFS patent with him; it's apparently been marketed to Daewoo on their DA/SA service pistiol for the Korean Army, and commercially offered briefly as an FN option on the High Power on FN (not Browning) roll-marked and marketed High Powers, and as an option offered for many years by Cylinder & Slide. Leon has marketed it under his RDIH company, and apparently has licensed it to Daewoo, and Cylinder & Slide still has it up on their website as available (at the same price point as BH SS, at least for the basic SFS kit).

To me the SFS kit from BH Spring Solutions is the better value when compared to the Cylinder & Slide offering, as it provides more value and options, and intrinsically comes with 2 sear springs providing different triggerpull weights and two safety lever springs.

Mark really wanted me to install the SFS on my own, so that I could also report on the installation aspect of the system; he provided me with the necessary punches and an exceptionally usefull and easily used BH Spring Solutions designed "Third Hand Tool" to keep the OEM hammer held back when detail disassembling, to both facilitate the disassembly as well as preventing it from unrestrainedly springing forward and possibly damaging the slideless frame. While the kit comes with a detailed instruction sheets and diagrams, only an engineer or patent attorney would appreciate them; they're technically quite correct, but in "engineerish," very difficult for a layman to easily and intuitively grasp (it's one of those things that after you've successfully accomplished the installation, you can re-read and appreciate, for for the uninitiated it's uncomprehensible initially).

Fortunately, BH SS has a very detailed collection of YouTube library videos. You'll need to watch Mark Allen's older one from a couple of years earlier first, as it provides detailed and easily followed disassembly instructions of the original components to prepare the pistol for the SFS components. After you've completed all the disassembly steps necessary for SFS installation, at that point I strongly recommending switching to partner Slav's updated video (only a couple of months old) for the actual installation of the SFS system-his video starts with all the original non SFS components already removed on a partially disassembled frame-the detailed step-by-step video guidance and discussion is excellent, and very easily followed.

I also had an opportunity to deep-clean a significant portion of my frame, but as I previously commented on when installing the BH SS optimized spring kit, simply not a lot of GSR and dirt/dust/gunk seems to get into and accumulate in the High Power frame. So essentially, I dusted and applied a light film of protectant (Weapon Shield) to the frame interior, and then wiped it dry. The same was done to all the SFS components prior to installation. I also applied a light coat of Lucas Red "N" Tacky #2 grease to the main safety lever axle, and also on the smaller axle that engages the SFS cocking hook piece.

I will say that the videos really make the disassembly, OEM component removals, and SFS component installation exceptionally easy; as long as you have the basic tools (and ideally an armorer's block-I used Wheeler Engineering's) necessary, it's a pretty simple and straightforward task, easily owner accomplished, in less than an hour. (Actually, far less time is really required, but I meticulously did it step-by-step in conjunction with the videos).

Here are some of my initial thoughts and discussion after the SFS installation:

-The single biggest advantage to it is comfort, as the abbreviated hammer spur, which in it's pre-cocked position (similar to a hammer at a half-cock position) simply doesn't prutrude into your side at all. That good for your side, and less likely to wear holes in concealment garments. If you're one of those afflicted by hammer bite with an OEM High Power hammer, the SFS completely eliminates it as well-that alone may be a sufficient reason to try the system for many

-The SFS system provides a much easier and safer method for decocking a High Power

-The system seems to be very durable, reliable and safe; I've literally never encountered any discussions of it failing or breaking

-Mark claims that the SFS returns John Browning's internal tolerencing back to the High Power, presumably making it a better, tighter component fit, more durable and reliable over the long run in particular. While I've never had any real issues with Saive's modifications, it's an intriguing historical, and perhaps operational point.

-While the SFS abbreviated "serif" looking hammer doesn't seem as balanced to the eye aesthetically to me as does the OEM spur or ring hammers, particularly when back in its full cock position when the safety is released, it actually has kind of an Art Deco look when in repose, pushed forward. It's started to grow on me, frankly. And historically, until modern times (i.e., likely post 1980), High Powers by the vast majority of users were likely probably carried hammer down on an empty chamber as opposed to cocked-and-locked, so there's some historical versimilitude inherent to the SFS in it's carry mode.
https://i.imgur.com/6DdEruNh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/YK966Ckh.jpg

-The SFS system inherently provides a drop safety; my Mark III inherently has the FN drop safety lever as well, so I guess it gives me a "belt and suspenders" approach to things, but it's a nice benefit to owners of older High Powers without zn OEM drop safety system

-The SFS slide stop is much more ergonomic and accessible for me then the OEM slide stop, and it also expedites field-stripping-with it, you don't need to first lock the slide back, you just push slightly up on it, remove it from the frame, and you can then remove the slide assembly off the frame.

-I find the SFS manual safety levers to be a bit more ergonomic then the OEM "banana" safety levers, and you simply cannot inadvertantly safe the gun by pushing up on the lever; the safety lever is automatically cammed into place concurrently by pushing the SFS hammer foward. I believe that the right side lever is molded polymer, so presumably you can re-shape it if necessary relatively easily

-I'm no gunsmith or engineer, but at first blush there seems to be a striking similarity between the SFS hammer and it's internal coil spring and HK's LEM two piece hammer design's mechanics, which has certainly proven to be rugged and reliable.
The SFS is ideal for holstering while thumbing on the hammer, additionally ensuring the weapon is easily and safely holstered.

-BH Spring Solutions provides not only two sear springs, it also provides a much simpler sear spring installation and removal, requiring only removing the grips to switch. I have chosen the slightly heavier Type 2 spring, as prefer at least a 4-6 pound triggerpull weight. Two light of a sear spring can run the risk of weapon double fire; my Mark III is probably impervious to that, but I'll start with the heavier spring, which provides an excellent triggerpull weight to my feel, at least in dryfire practice so far.

So-am I converted? We'll see over time, but I'm much more impressed than I anticipated. I just hate having to now acknowledge Mark Allen's likely forthcoming "I told you so..."

Best, Jon

[fatdog]

Great project gun!

I have been running the SFS for nearly 20 years without a single problem in many thousands of rounds. I picked up a factory FN made mk III that they sold with the SFS in place, and then converted a pair of Argentine FM Mk III's with the SFS kits I bought from Cylinder and Slide. I believe the lock time on the SFS is much faster than the conventional hammer and sear system but with no way to quantitatively measure that is just my perception. Hope your conversion holds up and serves as well as mine have.

61241

[JonInWA]

In my continuing evaluation of BH Spring Solutions components, Mark Allen and his partner Slav wanted me to wring out several of their wood grips. Basically, their wood grips are finish variations on the same basic contour design, which incorporated a calculated combination of graduated thickness with a subtle shelving contour incorporated into the upper portion of the grip plates. Primarily walnut burl (with other occassional woods used), my understanding is that the grips are manufactured in Bulgaria, and their inletting is by CNC controlled cuts, and the exterior finishes involve significant handwork and on the higher grades involve multile coats of Damar lacquer, with additional polishing and hand finishing between each coat. Mor on all that in a moment.

My initial introduction to their grips was with two sets of their RDIH polymer grips designed by Leon Hubert, a former senior FN and FN High Power project engineer. He personally designs and manufactures a series of High Power and 1911 components, and I was eager to test his grips-for those of you following ths blog, here's a recap:

The first set was this one in black polymer:
https://i.imgur.com/BJmrsgNh.jpg

I was impressed with them, but felt that there was some room for further refining, vis-a-vis application of some of p-f member David Barnes' VCD stippling, with which I was well familiar with, due to Todd G's touting of them, and the two previous sets he'd provided for my 1911s. Discussions with David and Mark commenced, with BH SS providing me a set of FDE RDIH grips, and David applied his technique on, resulting in this:
https://i.imgur.com/jGMDL1wh.jpg

The end result was the best set of tactical grips I've encountered on a High Power-the combination of the VCD stippling, RDIH ergos (including vestigal shelf strakes and pronounced frontstrap finger grooves) just works, For an operational set of grips, color me done. If you've got a High Power that you carry or use in IDPA (or similar), I strongly recommend trying the RDIH/VCD combination-and the combined cost will be less than $60. Boom.

However, sometimes there's pleasure to be derived in a combination of design effeciencies and aesthetics. Hence the BH Spring Solutions' wood grips. To date, I've tested 4 sets: a set of their matte checkered Masteers Grips, which retail for about $70;
https://i.imgur.com/kCHsFAdh.jpg

Two sets of their higher level Legacy grips, which are smooth and magnificently finished, and retail for about $110-$145:
https://i.imgur.com/AzRDQNMh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/n77LQiAh.jpg

And a set of their highest level of wood figuring, their Heirloom grips, selling for $170
https://i.imgur.com/sglPTTYh.jpg

However, as good as the design and feel was, and how they performed in actual use (all but for the Heirloom-more on that in a moment) ther were problems with a four sets of these higher end wood grips.

With the matte Master Grip, it was fit-I encountered some slippage in the left grip plate when installed, it's back at BH SS awaiting a suitable replacement.

With the 2 Legacy grips, there were more significant problems: Both sets encountered cracks or breakage in actual use:

https://i.imgur.com/mSaWZ5Uh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/pNC65meh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/NpOByGGh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/UTKJI2Oh.jpg

My gnnsmith Cris at C.a.R. Firearms and I examined the Heirloom grip, which I'd installed on my High Power but not fired; he found significant gaps at the fronts, top and sides, especially aroung teh top and rear grip tang areas. Detailed images were sent to Mark and Slav, and we've had some very detailed discussions.

Basically, BH Spring Solutions' integrity is superb and they fully and immediately stand behind any and all of their products-that's the personal and business model they're fully comitted to. What we've tentatively ascertained are the possibility of two issues-1) that there are some issues with the CNC manufacturing process and pre-shipping QC from their maker, and 2) that the grip fit model is based on forged frame High Powers, and the newer cast frame High Powers have some subtle, but critical dimensional variations from the forged ones. Analysis and redesign is being undergone as we speak.

In the meantime, if you have a forged frame High Power, the remaining stock of BH SS Legacy inventory is significantly on sale-but I'd ask Mark to check the fit before shipping. Ditto on the frame check on any Heirloom grips. If you have a cast frame, I'd strongly recommend waiting for the new and improved wood BH SS grips; they'll be worth the wait.

Best, Jon

[Tokarev]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210110/15bc60af6b4c909f1406ebee9533f584.jpg

[JonInWA]

Last weekend I ran the High Power in a local Tier 1 IDPA match and Classifier, expeding 142 rounds. Grips used were the excellent RDIH grips from BH Spring Solutions, to which David Barnes had applied his VCD stippling, which provides excellent control; the holster used was my Privateer Leather Highwayman, which continues to provide excellent holstering operational effectiveness and comfort.

https://i.imgur.com/FnyT6p1h.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/V6VqYVeh.jpg

The gun ran superbly, but I noticed that one of my MecGar magazines was a bit hesitant to chamber the initial round on reloads; BH SS has a tool enroute to me for me to analyize the cartridges angle of presentation out of the magazine, which will alert me for feed lip spread-and also a replacement MecGar .40 magazine. The problematic one will be either junked or relegated to Barney mag status only. Predominate ammunition used was Winchester White Box target 165 gr-not my first preference, but it worked well enough.

After the match, when routinely cleaning and lubricating, I noticed an odd feature on the back of the firing pin retaining plate, appearing to be either a casting mark or a hairline crack.

https://i.imgur.com/KVqds0xh.jpg

As a precautionary measure, I decided to dig a bit deeper, as it is unusual but not unknown for High Power firing pin retainint plates to develop stress cracks, predominantly at the 7 o'clock poition, according to Stephen Camp's excellent TTHe Shooter's Guide To The Browning Hi Power Revised Edition," p 64. Using BH Spring Solutions excellent Firig Pin Retaining Plate Tool
https://i.imgur.com/CD10OXah.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/fa3gdWvh.jpg
it was accomplished with ease and a singular lack of drama-and I also found the tip of the RDIH Extended Slide Stop lever made an excellent firing pin safety lever depressing tool; depressing the lever is essential to removing the firing pin components.

What I found when I remved the pate was disconcerting-a substatial portion of the rail had broken off, and not only was the retaining pin cracked, there was also a crater wher material had remved itself.

https://i.imgur.com/8fwbDNzh.jpg?1

Here's a comparison with the replacement retaining plate that I fortunately had on hand (based on Stephen Camp's list of recommended High Power replacement parts he recommended having on hand (firing pin, firing pin retaining plate extractor, recoil spring guide, springs, and roll pins):

https://i.imgur.com/XtgSy74h.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/JIyFcfIh.jpg

The replacement (obtained from Browning some years back) is MIM; the OEM one, I'm not certain about. While I've never experienced of heard of a High Power firing pin retaining plate breaking to the point of allowing the firing pin and firing pin spring to be released into the open (I have read of when one broke in half, it still performed according to fuction, and also was discovered only upon the user's detailed disassembly when it fell out in halves when removed), it certainly isn't a Good Thing to continue with a materially compromised part. By my estimation, the condition has existed for some 1,000 rounds and innumerable dryfire iterations-1,000 rounds ago was when I embarked on the holistic BH Spring Sollutions overall spring replacement program and detailed disassembled the High Power.

In the future, what I intend to do is to place a #6 rubber O-ring on top of the end of the firing pin protrusion from the firing pin retainning plate to cushion the direct blow from the hammer when there isn't a cartridge or dummy cartridge to perform that function.

Additionally, I also received a new set of the functionally improved BH Spring Solutions grips, with the inlet cuts modified to allow for stronger wood presences at critical curves in the upper grip tang in the grip-to-receiver interface. The grios have a laser-carved filagree inlay, designed by Mark Allen's wife, which artistically lend a very appropriate look to the Hogh Power, which came into its own originally during the Art Deco period-her design subtly, but very nicely adds an aesthetic finishing touch to the High Powr's lines and appeal; I like them quate a bit-but no I'll have to see how they shoot and hold up.

https://i.imgur.com/Rr02BGIh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/r36r8puh.jpg

Best, Jon

[Tokarev]

FYI in case you don't know. Cylinder and Slide makes a tool steel firing pin stop. Part # CS0054.



Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

[JonInWA]

FYI in case you don't know. Cylinder and Slide makes a tool steel firing pin stop. Part # CS0054.



Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

Theirs is tool steel; BH Spring Solutions and RDIH's position is that in the case of this particular component, quality MIM is actually a better solution in terms of strength and longevity.

FN also modified the component during the High Power production cycle, both materially and archtecturally; the final one was MIM, I believe under Leon Hubert's guidance when he was in charge of High Power production and engineering at FN; you can visibly see some of the contouring and casting/MIM differences between my replacement from Browning and my OEM 2003 production firing pin retaining plates in the side-by-side images I posted.

https://i.imgur.com/XtgSy74h.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/JIyFcfIh.jpg

When you look at the Cylinder & Slide compoent, while its similar in contouring to the final FN/Browning one, there are some differences:

https://cylinder-slide.com/Item/CS0054

Best, Jon

[JonInWA]

In searching the internet for discussions of the firing pin retaining plate's issues, while I've come across several cases of issues (including one that was broken in half, and one where one side's securing flange to the slide slot fractured off), I have yet to come across a case where a compromised firing pin retaining plate actually induced any OPERATIONAL issues-the guns seemingly just chugged along, and the problems were discovered by their operators some time later.

Additionally, Mk III later production firing pin safety equipped High Powers provide another layer of operationl reassurance, as I believe they'll retaining the firing pin and firing pin spring in a functional position, possibly even without the FPRP.

Best, Jon

[JonInWA]

Whoo Hoo! After my Mk III .40 sequentially munched its way across several of BH Spring Solutions' aestheticallymagnificent grip offerings (as I detailed earlier in the thread), they and the grip manufacturer systemically examined both production specifications and revised quality control. These are from the first run of the revised production, which provides more material particularly in the rear tang area, which provides greater strength and a better fit-both of which are necessary both in general and in particular with a frame that is subject to their higher recoil forces (and the quicker spiking recoil forces) from the .40 cartridge.

https://i.imgur.com/JlYAODWh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/zv6uKfSh.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/azuIE5Vh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/XJesW9wh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/t5VvRFwh.jpg

The grips evidenced no cracking whatsover after being utilized throughout a 116 round IDPA match last weekend. As per usual with me, a Challis rubber O ring was attached to each grip screw before screwing the grip on the receiver, and there was no significant screw loosening during use.

The laser-cut engraving was designed by BH Spring Solutions' partner Mark Allen's wife, and they in my opinion beautifully work with both the aesthetics of the High Power as well as adding an Art Deco touch to a gun that was originally produced during the Art Deco period. The contours of the grip work to provide a good hold in use; they aren't unduly slippery (the match last weekend featured continuous rain throughout the match, so that waas a good additional test).

I had encountered some initial chambering issues with one of my older MecGar magazines, and possibly one of my OEN mousetrap-sprung magazines (also produced by MecGar for FN/Browning, but with a different follower {and slightly more stabler, in my opinion); BH Spring Solutions provided me with a new nickle-plated MecGar magazine, and I disassembled, thoroughly cleaned, and lightly lubricated the magazine inner tube and spring with Dri-Slide, a dry film lubricant/anti-corrosive) on not just the new, but on all of my High Power magazines. Absolutely zero problems were encountered is subsequent use.

I'm very glad that BH Spring Solutions was able to jump into the problems with theinitial production run of grips, and come up with a systemically derived improved solution, and bring it into production.

Best, Jon

[Jim Watson]

I notice that a lot of people dealing with BHSS fall for the SFS lockwork.
What does it do for you in, say, that IDPA match?

[JonInWA]

I notice that a lot of people dealing with BHSS fall for the SFS lockwork.
What does it do for you in, say, that IDPA match?

I was initially very resistant to it, feeling that it was a solution in search of a non-existant problem. Mark sent me one, despite all of my protests, and eventually, more out of a combination of curiosity and a sense of fairness/due diligence, I installed it (after I blew off the dust from the kit sitting on my desk). Mark and Slav really wanted me to install it on my own, and they provided me with the necessary tools previously, so I detailed the process out earlier in the discussion thread-upshot: thanks to their 2 videos, it was eminently (and eassily) do-able.

Apres installation, I decided that I actually like it quite a bit, and its installation has become a permanent one for me for several reasons:

1. The at-rest (and modified shaped) hammer spur makes for a much more comfortable carry then is possible with the OEM hammers-and there's less wear-and-tear on clothes, sweaters, jackets, concealment garnments, etc.

2. The SFS set-up provides for a much easier sear spring switch; partial detailed disassembly is no longer required.

3. The hammer-down, on-safe position is easily, and safely achieved merely by pushing the hammer forward after chambering a round-the safety lever is concurrently mechanically cammed into the on-safe position. Off-safing is achieved simply by the normal action of pushing the safety lever down, as with the OEM action.

4. While usable with the OEM action, the slide stop/release designed for the SFS is FAR more ergonomic and easily usable than the OEM one, and also facilitates field-stripping simply by pushing up on it, which frees the slide to be slid off the receiver-the slide does no need to be locked back and engaged first.

While most, if not all of the multitude of advantages that BH Spring Solutions touts for the SFS on their website had already been incorporated into my gun due to previous BH SS component and spring installations, I consider the SFS system to be a desirable one due to the 4 things I've listed above. In operational use, the draw, acquisition, off-safeing and operation manual of arms is the same as with the OEM action.

If you subsequently want to revert to the OEM action, the SFS system is easily removed and you can re-convert to the OEM set-up-no gunsmithing or component modifications are necessary to install the SFS; it's truly a drop-in and or remove system.

Best, Jon

[entropy]

They do need to be a bit more responsive to emails. I have attempted to contact them several times for an “In stock” time estimate on a SFS kit, and they have yet to respond to a single inquiry. (Yep, checked my spam and all that...)

[JonInWA]

They do need to be a bit more responsive to emails. I have attempted to contact them several times for an “In stock” time estimate on a SFS kit, and they have yet to respond to a single inquiry. (Yep, checked my spam and all that...)

Mark Allen's been out of the country due to an unexpected death in the family, I suspect that's the reason for the delayed response.

Best, Jon

[entropy]

I appreciate the insight and response. I’ll try them again in a few weeks if I don’t hear back.

[awmp]

Great thread, I have read every post and learned a lot. I have a call appointment today with BH Spring Solutions to discuss several questions I have about their products and possible work on my new purchased Hi-Power, more to follow I'm sure.

[awmp]

Update, had a great conversation with John at BH Solutions, talked over an hour, great guy. Just shipped Hi Power to him for SFS and Trigger work, will update upon return.

[entropy]

Ordered up a SFS kit to try in my MkII. I’ll report back after install. If it works well, maybe order an additional for the MkIII.

[JonInWA]

Since RDIH has merged with BH Spring Solutions, with RDIH head and retired senior FN engineer Leon Hubert becoming part of BH SS's leadership, BH SS has a huge sale going on for all the RDIH-branded components; I assume the next production run will have the components re-branded with the BH SS logo, hence the sale of the current inventory. Worth a look if you have an interest in any of the components.

Best, Jon

[JonInWA]

Wow. I had to dig through 22 pages to revive and update the thread-not that that's a bad thing, got to revisit some other great threads enroute..SQUIRREL! I've been steadily shooting and carrying the High Power, as it's one of the main platforms I'm comitted to this year.

Last weekend I participated in a fairly intensive training and qualification course for duty for our church security team, which I head. The training was conducted by 3 active LEOs with extensive prefessional/teaching credentialing; we've used them for the past 4 years or so for both shooting, hand-to-hand, and non-physical training.

I ran the High Power as currently equipped out; SFS action, standard Mark III sights (rectangular inserts instead of dots; front sight rectangle white, rears orange), BH Springs, upgraded trigger system, RDIH extended slide stop and ambi magazine release, RDIH polymer fingergroove grip with VCD stippling, and MecGar magazines (along with one duty OEM FN/MecGar mousetrap spring magazine), and BH SS dual stage buffering recoil spring guide rod. Cartridges were 180 gr Blazer brass ball.

Training takeouts: First, the RDIH/VCD grips and the BH SS dual stage recoil spring guide rod are a superb combination, and both materially and significantly provide reduced and eminently controllable recoil. In high speed full magazine drills, starting slowly and then accellerating to "quick as you can shoot" trackable and accurate hits were consistantly provided. In qualification, I was in a three-way tie for second (first qualifier was by a superb shooter and instructor).

Second, my older MecGar magazine had some first round chambering issues; it's over 20+ years old, and while not abused, due to it's presumptively expired lifespan it''s on it's way out the door....The newer MecGar magazines and the one lone OEM FN?MecGar magazines had no issues.

Third, after some 200 rounds into training, I noticed that the slide was not being locked back after the last shot fired; and instructor counseled me that my support hand had likely drifted up during the course of fire and was nudging the slide stop upward preventing the slide locking back. I'll have to moniter and train my support hand position better; while the RDIH extended slide stop might be more susceptible to this due to its increased area, particularly in the actuating pad, it's benefits (at least to me) as a viable/ergonomic true slide release component far offset this slight negative.

Forth, Other than the initial chambering issues with the one magazine, and the above described failure of the slide to lock back on an empty magazine, the High Power performed flawlessly throughout the some 300 round course. And it was comfortable and not taxing to shoot. The SFS system was eminently usable in a tactical environment; I have no qualms with it as a duty action.

Fifth, the BH SS improved trigger system provides a wider trigger (mine is subtly (not sharply) serrated and eliminates the magazine safety. BH SS provides an optionally installable magazine eject "kicker" spring, which I elected not to installl on mine; in retrospect, I can see the benefits of it, as some magazines did not drop free when ejected. It doesn't intrude with any of the action components, so I'll eventually get around to having it installed, and would recommend going with it from the onset if you choose to go the BH SS improved trigger system route.

The ergonomic qualities of the BH SS/RDIH components were excellent, particualrly those inherent to the extended slide stop/release, the safety levers, and the ambidexterous magazine release system.

Sixth, at one point well into the training I thought my grip screws might be loosening, however the rubber Challis O-Rings I install on each screw significantly prevent screw back outs. Only sight tightening was in fact required (and was probably in retrospect unnecessary), and I'm convinced the screws would not have loosened significantly if I had left them alone.

Seventh, the 20+ pound .40 recoil spring can make slide manipulations more difficult than the 9mm spring; an overhand grasp of the slide while bringing it into your body significantly eases the process using natural mechanical advantage via positioning.

Components where there was a heavy bearing load or metal-on-metal reciprocation received grease lubrication; I use Lucas Red "N" Tacky #2, which had worked supeerbly for me over the years, thanks to p-f member Clabbersaurous's recommendaton. It does not evaporate or migrate, even under heavy and/or protracted use. For more compact guns, such as my Glock G19, I'm more likely to use a thinner viscosity cream-type lubricnt on similar components; also on my 1911s. For full-size guns, the Lucas grease works superbly. Otherwise, my general lubricant/protectant is currently Lucas Extreme Duty Gun Oil.

I find the High Power to be a relatively clean-shooting gun; relatively little sludge, GSR or grime seems to accumulate in heavy or protracted use. I find that there's little contamination in the firing pin chamber area as well, arguably the design which seems to preclude extensive contamination may assist in its reliable functioning.

The holster I used throughout was Wes Dahl's excellent Privateer Leather 3-Slot Highwayman, and with quality leather; there were no issues with draw or one-handed re-holstering.

Great training throughout the day, and a renewed appreciation and respect for the upgraded High Power.

Best, Jon

As currently equipped as discussed:

https://i.imgur.com/BvZZOGAh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/WtubKJgh.jpg

[42Willys]

Great report!

[fatdog]

the slide was not being locked back after the last shot fired;

The problem may well have been your contact point, but I have one HP, a MK III FN branded version, that will never lock back on empty on the new generation of Mec-gar mags. Mec-gar significantly changed their BHP follower design some time in the last 3-4 years and this gun will slide lock on empty for the old mags, but never for the new version mags....like I said may not be related at all to your experience, but something that surprised me.

I don't know the reason(s) for this design change on the Mec-gar mags. I will try and take a picture when I get home tonight so others are aware.

[JonInWA]

The problem may well have been your contact point, but I have one HP, a MK III FN branded version, that will never lock back on empty on the new generation of Mec-gar mags. Mec-gar significantly changed their BHP follower design some time in the last 3-4 years and this gun will slide lock on empty for the old mags, but never for the new version mags....like I said may not be related at all to your experience, but something that surprised me.

I don't know the reason(s) for this design change on the Mec-gar mags. I will try and take a picture when I get home tonight so others are aware.

Thanks, much appreciated. I'll be competing in an IDPA match this weekend with the High Power and the same magazines, so I'll be paying particular attention to weeding out the problem child(ren).

Best, Jon

[JonInWA]

Update 1/16/22: I shot a 6 stage IDPA match yesterday, with only one shoter-induced malfunction: After "Barney loading" my first round in the very first stage, I then insufficiently seated my full 10 round magzine, resulting in a"Bag" followed by a "What the heck??" when the next triggerpull for the second round resulted in a "click." Obviously, the insufficiently locked-in magazine had dropped down a bit in the receiver, precluding the stripper rail from picking up the next cartridge.... Quickly rectified by a tap-rack-bang...

Zero slide lock-back issues. Zero magazine issues...Just a great day of shooting with friends and a superb machine. No excessivably noticible shooter kerfluffles. Again noticed the reduced muzzle flip and quick tracking due to the combination of the BH SS dual stage buffering guide rod and improved trigger. The extended slide release was also much apprecited and effectively utilized after slide-lock reloads. to quickly get the slide into battery.

Blazer Brass 180 gr .40 predominantly used, with a smattering of Sellier & Belliot 180 gr.

Best, Jon

[fatdog]

On the left the older version of the Mecgar 9mm BHP magazine follower, on the right their new version, no idea when exactly the change was made or why. I only have one MK III that refuses to lock open last round on the newer version. The others I own work fine including my old MK II and the Argentines.

82852

[JonInWA]

I just used the High Power in the Western Washington Regional IDPA Championship Match, where I had a great time and the gun performed magnificently, with absolutely zero hiccups or malfunctions of any kind. I used a Mec-Gar magazine with a Mec-Gar extended basepad, which ingeniously replaced the OEM sheet metal basepad, providing for 11 rounds of .40, allowing me to compete in ESP at Division capacity of 10+1 (11) in the initial magazine without having to resort to using a "Barney" magazine for the initial loading. My two reload magazines were OEM 10 round FN "mousetrap" magazines, with their NP3-like finish; all magazines performed very satisfactorily throughout.

While I competed with the FDE/coyote RDIH grips with David Barnes' VCD treatment, after the match, playing gun Barbie, I switched them out for an identical set of black RDIH/VCD grips; these grips, in my opinion, based on several years of use are the penultimate tactical High Power grips-and they're a superb value as well.

https://i.imgur.com/BvZZOGAh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/XaHIq5Bh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/SJ4dAm9h.jpg

Ammunition used was PMC Bronze standard pressure 180 gr flat point ball; while I usually prefer Sellier & Bellot or American Eagle 180 gr cartridges, the PMC Bronze was decent, accurate and effective (and available).

My holster was Privateer Leather's superb 3-Slot Highwayman OWB from Wes Dahl,

https://i.imgur.com/WtubKJgh.jpg

Best, Jon

[Stephanie B]

I just used the High Power in the Western Washington Regional IDPA Championship Match, where I had a great time and the gun performed magnificently, with absolutely zero hiccups or malfunctions of any kind. I used a Mec-Gar magazine with a Mec-Gar extended basepad, which ingeniously replaced the OEM sheet metal basepad, providing for 11 rounds of .40, allowing me to compete in ESP at Division capacity of 10+1 (11) in the initial magazine without having to resort to using a "Barney" magazine for the initial loading. My two reload magazines were OEM 10 round FN "mousetrap" magazines, with their NP3-like finish; all magazines performed very satisfactorily throughout.

While I competed with the FDE/coyote RDIH grips with David Barnes' VCD treatment, after the match, playing gun Barbie, I switched them out for an identical set of black RDIH/VCD grips; these grips, in my opinion, based on several years of use are the penultimate tactical High Power grips-and they're a superb value as well.

https://i.imgur.com/BvZZOGAh.jpg
Ammunition used was PMC Bronze standard pressure 180 gr flat point ball; while I usually prefer Sellier & Bellot or American Eagle 180 gr cartridges, the PMC Bronze was decent, accurate and effective (and available).

Best, Jon

Nice. SFS kit installed?

[JonInWA]

Nice. SFS kit installed?

Yes, despite my initial grudging reluctance to install it after one of the partners of BH Spring Solutions went ahead and sent it to me to t&e after I'd emphatically said, "No," (and it sat gathering dust in my study for 6 months after it arrived), when I eventually installed it (out of a sense of fairness to test the concept and hardware-and to shut up the partner, Mark Howe, who was like an incessantly dripping faucet in his insistence that I give it a try), I was actually (and totally unexpectedly) quite impressed with the SFS.

While many of the benefits BH SS touts about it on their website (and they enumerate 20) https://bhspringsolutions.com/index.php/product/fast-safety-sfs-v2-0-tactical-for-hi-power/?doing_wp_cron=1683807727.8152599334716796875000, my High Power actually had a number of them fulfilled due to other BH SS components already installed (which was part of my reluctance to go the SFS route).(My SFS kit was the Tactical one, which included an ambidextrous magazine release, which I immediately installed when the SFS kit arrived {no six-month, dust gathering period for it}, and have liked quite a bit as well).

However, once installed, I really liked it. It's a simple system, and the hammer spur shape (goofy as it initially looks) and forward position (when the SFS is activated) really make it more comfortable to carry, as opposed to the High Power's hammer spur jabbing into your side when carried cocked and locked as I did prior to installing the SFS. It's actually pretty easy to remove the OEM action components and install the SFS when using two of BH SS's videos. Mine has become a permanent installation, but as with most BH SS components, if you decide you don't like them, it's easy to un-install and return to the OEM configuration.

Best, Jon

[Chuck Whitlock]

.... the gun performed magnificently, with absolutely zero hiccups or malfunctions of any kind. I used a Mec-Gar magazine with a Mec-Gar extended basepad, which ingeniously replaced the OEM sheet metal basepad, .......Best, Jon

Please expound upon this. I am unable to find anything on Mec-Gar's site.

[JonInWA]

Please expound upon this. I am unable to find anything on Mec-Gar's site.

https://mec-gar.com/shop/upgrade-parts/pads/plus-2-aluminum-for-metal-floorplate/

Best, Jon

[Chuck Whitlock]

https://mec-gar.com/shop/upgrade-parts/pads/plus-2-aluminum-for-metal-floorplate/

Best, Jon

Thanks, Jon!

I don't suppose tat it is compatible with the mousetrap springs?

[JonInWA]

Thanks, Jon!

I don't suppose tat it is compatible with the mousetrap springs?

They are not; just with the non-mousetrap spring magazines. And while the same part is good for Ruger P85 magazines, it's only for the earlier, metal basepad P85 magazines, not the current production P85/P89 ones with the polymer basepads.

Best, Jon

[DDTSGM]

Don't know if this is a good price or not:

(TRIED TO ADD PICTURE WOULDN'T LET ME)


https://aimsurplus.com/products/belgium-fn-hi-power-9mm-handgun-w-rare-alloy-frame?c=FRI10132023&mc_cid=ffcee57d41&mc_eid=b9d06dc545

[42Willys]

Don't know if this is a good price or not:

(TRIED TO ADD PICTURE WOULDN'T LET ME)


https://aimsurplus.com/products/belgium-fn-hi-power-9mm-handgun-w-rare-alloy-frame?c=FRI10132023&mc_cid=ffcee57d41&mc_eid=b9d06dc545

Seems fair

[Joe in PNG]

If I was looking for another HP, I'd go for it.