Model 60 gunsmith/mods?

[Sero Sed Serio]

After too much time in Darryl's podcast, I've decided to dip my toe back into the snubby lifestyle, and just picked up a NOS 60 no dash.

The plan is to have a gunsmith give the gun a once-over, whack the hammer, and smooth up the action but keep the factory springs. Anything else I should look into having done? And any recommendations for which smith/shop to do the work? Frank Glenn is local to me, but I have no issue sending it out if there's a better option.

As for sights, are there any options beyond D&L, an XS front, or the Crimson Trace grip? Are there any options for a gold bead and black rear?

Finally, since this thread would be useless without pics...

45628

45629

[Mark D]

Congrats on your new J frame, she's a beaut. If it was my gun, I would leave as-is, except for some paint on the sights. I prefer to keep the older S&W's pretty close to factory. I'd get a more recent version if I wanted to mod it.

But hey, it's your gun, so obviously ymmv.

[Duelist]

45630

I recently got this 60-9 as a kind of trainer that is easier on me to shoot, while I pocket a 642. They had a 60 no dash in the same case, and part of the reason i went the the -9 was the pinned, wider, black front sight blade. Figured it I hated it enough I could swap it easier. But it’s wider and easier to see than that skinny silver blade.

Certainly is easier to shoot well than the 642.

[Jim Watson]

Surprised the collectors aren't paying big money for a 60-0.

Ted Yost has the neatest fixed revolver sight going.
http://www.estatesporting.com/smith---wesson.html#QQ=503688249&slide=1

H. Bowen made one but I do not see it in his catalog, just a picture of a heavily modified Ruger in his "workshop".

[Drifting Fate]

I, too, was going to leave the springs stock, but had Apex kits put in three J-frames and couldn't be happier with the results.

Not heavy round counts (we are talking J-frames here), but plenty to test reliability and usability and each one passes with flying colors.

Bobbing the hammer is almost a practical necessity if you only have one snubby, but I agree with the gent who recommended some paint on the front sight and call it good as far as that goes.

[peterb]

Bobbing the hammer is almost a practical necessity if you only have one snubby, but I agree with the gent who recommended some paint on the front sight and call it good as far as that goes.

Question on bobbing the hammer: Is it a reasonable home project if you’re not picky about the appearance? I bought a “looks ugly, shoots well” Model 36 that already had the hammer spur partially reduced(badly) and I’d like to finish the job. Any pitfalls to be aware of?

[Drifting Fate]

Question on bobbing the hammer: Is it a reasonable home project if you’re not picky about the appearance? I bought a “looks ugly, shoots well” Model 36 that already had the hammer spur partially reduced(badly) and I’d like to finish the job. Any pitfalls to be aware of?

If you simply want the spur gone and don't care what the results look like, you can do it yourself easily enough. Just remember a Dremel in the hands of the untrained is the gunsmith's best friend.

One thing to consider is that many (most, probably) have the single-action notch removed as well. Because that gets into messing with sear engagement, though it's easy enough, if you are hesitant at all I'd take it to a gunsmith.

Back in the day it was common to leave the single-action notch in place and score the top of the hammer for purchase while cocking. Such things are discouraged now for litigious reasons.

[peterb]

Just remember a Dremel in the hands of the untrained is the gunsmith's best friend.

Thanks! I think I do know what I don’t know well enough to stay away from critical areas like engagement surfaces. I just want to make the rough ugly hammer stub go away.

[Sero Sed Serio]

Ted Yost has the neatest fixed revolver sight going.
http://www.estatesporting.com/smith---wesson.html#QQ=503688249&slide=1

H. Bowen made one but I do not see it in his catalog, just a picture of a heavily modified Ruger in his "workshop".

I was under the impression that Yost was only doing full custom builds, and not taking smaller jobs. I really like his sights, especially the gold stripe, so I sent him an e-mail to confirm.

I would prefer the Bowen sight to D&L, but it looks like it's no longer being produced? C&S's website still lists installing Bowen sights as a service, but it's not clear if they have any of the sights available.


Bobbing the hammer is almost a practical necessity if you only have one snubby, but I agree with the gent who recommended some paint on the front sight and call it good as far as that goes.

This will probably be my only snubby (I'm sure that's been said before...), and will be exclusively carried in my pocket, so removing the spur is definitely needed.

[Wingate's Hairbrush]

After too much time in Darryl's podcast, I've decided to dip my toe back into the snubby lifestyle, and just picked up a NOS 60 no dash.

The plan is to have a gunsmith give the gun a once-over, whack the hammer, and smooth up the action but keep the factory springs. Anything else I should look into having done? And any recommendations for which smith/shop to do the work? Frank Glenn is local to me, but I have no issue sending it out if there's a better option.

As for sights, are there any options beyond D&L, an XS front, or the Crimson Trace grip? Are there any options for a gold bead and black rear?

Finally, since this thread would be useless without pics...If Frank Glenn is local to you, thank your lucky stars and consider yourself covered.

I'd request he inspect front-to-back to determine function, fit and spec, make suggestions and correct anything he finds issue with; a duty tune for smooth, linear double-action with consistent let-off that'll pop any primer it meets, and crisp, creep-free single action; nub the hammer spur but not totally remove it; and either a bright orange front sight insert or an XS standard dot and widen the rear trench but otherwise nothing else.

But first, I'd shoot it a bit before deciding what it really needs... ;)

[Inspector71]

Bobbed hammer and UM grips.

[Sero Sed Serio]

Ted Yost replied (I was impressed with the quickness and the personal response) and confirmed it’s too small of a project for him right now

[JimCunn]

"Bobbing the hammer is almost a practical necessity if you only have one snubby,"

Why is that?

[jandbj]

Either Karl Sokol

http://chestnutmountainsports.net

or Mike LaRocca

https://www.laroccagunworks.com

[JAH 3rd]

Congrats on your new J frame, she's a beaut. If it was my gun, I would leave as-is, except for some paint on the sights. I prefer to keep the older S&W's pretty close to factory. I'd get a more recent version if I wanted to mod it.

But hey, it's your gun, so obviously ymmv.

My first model 60 looked just like this. Boy this pic brings back memories. Personally I would leave it as is. Maybe it's just emotion, but for me this is the quintessential J-frame.

[JRV]

"Bobbing the hammer is almost a practical necessity if you only have one snubby,"

Why is that?

If you have one snub, odds are you will utilize it for its highest and best purposes: pant/coat pocket carry or other deep concealment carry (ankle, smartcarry, etc.).

Hammers spurs are essentially hooks that cause issues in those situations. Yes, you can thumb-over the hammer on the draw, but (a) some pockets might not allow that and (b) some people like a full grip on the draw.

[JimCunn]

"Hammers spurs are essentially hooks that cause issues in those situations. Yes, you can thumb-over the hammer on the draw,"

In order, not necessarily, and yes, I do.
I have three Airweight 637-2 J-frames modified with titanium cylinders to further reduce weight.

I learned to shoot on SA revolvers, so grew up using the hammer cocking to rotate the pistol forward as it cleared the holster. Consequently, I used the same technique drawing a DA when I started carrying snubbies maybe 50 years ago. In short, it is cocked when it comes level and the trigger operates in SA mode. Therefore, the thumb does protect the hammer during the draw. The other advantage is that it is faster and more accurate on first shot than drawing and firing DA. In 70 years of shooting, I've never snagged the hammer (needless to say, that doesn't imply that I won't snag it on my very next draw :-)