First 1911

[spinmove_]

I picked up a Springfield Armory Range Officer Operator 1911 in .45Auto over the weekend as my first 1911 as pictured below. It’s got just short of 100 rounds through it and so far I’m totally digging it. Didn’t get a chance to get more ammo through it as the wife and I were shooting other things as well. More to come though as I hope this thing keeps chugging along.

45284

Being new to the platform and wanting to learn more I’m in the process of absorbing as much info as I can. My hopes with this thread is to garner additional info that a newbie to the platform should know and be cognizant of and how to maintain from here as well as any possible idiosyncrasies that may be unique to SA 1911s in general.

It’s got the fiber front and I’ve blacked out the rear sight, so that should be sufficient for now. Although I’ll probably want to eventually get it swapped out for a blacked out and serrated rear at some point. The front seems fine enough to keep, so I don’t see the point of swapping it out. The torx grip screws seem like a dumb idea, so I’ll be swapping those out with flat head screws, but since I’m doing that I might as well throw some decent G10 grips on it. Preferably something with a texture that’s somewhat grippy, but also comfortable enough for carry as I’d like to try my hand at that for giggles down the road. I’ll probably get the grips from LOK. I like VZ grips, don’t get me wrong (love the LTT grips and J-frame grips I have on my guns now), but I like to support Michigan companies when I can. So suggestions there would be appreciated.

Beyond that I’ll probably run at least a case or two of ammo through it before I change anything else more drastically, which should take me a while because it’s not a Glock and .45Auto ain’t super cheap. I do foresee some sort of magwell and ambi-safety in my future though, so suggestions there would be appreciated as well. For mags, I’ve got the two no-names that came with the gun and I picked up a Wilson 47. So far no issues, but we’ll see. I’ll probably pick up another 47, a couple Metalform 8 rounders, and a couple CMC 8 rounders to give myself something to work with for now and test.

Now, springs and maintenance intervals are probably what I’m most curious about right now. I have no idea what spring weights SA ships their guns with. It seems to shoot fine now so I’m inclined to leave well enough alone, but curious if maybe doing the recommended 18lb recoil spring and 23lb mainspring thing now is better or keep using what was supplied. Change recoil springs every 2,000 rounds? Any other springs at that time? What’s the next maintenance interval part?

Spare extractors. Any suggestions on which brand I should have on hand as a spare? Any other high wear parts I should have spares of for giggles?

[Wingate's Hairbrush]

Good first 1911. Beware, they multiply if you feed them after...anytime. ;)

The ubiquity of 1911 info -- too much, really -- is a blessing of the Information Age. Suggest you seek out some of the dedicated 1911 sites for total immersion.

In the meantime, here's a fine start: https://pistol-forum.com/showthread.php?36518-The-Art-and-Science-of-Keeping-Your-1911-Running

[claymore504]

Congrats on the 1911. I think you got a good one for sure. The 1911 is an amazing weapon and can be a hobby for sure. I am not even close to being an expert on the 1911, but I will warn you that you are stepping into a world with lots of passionate people. It is easy to get overwhelmed with information on the 1911. Lots of opinions out there and lots of people "know" they are right. Just enjoy that 1911, get familiar with it and shoot it!

Here are a couple helpful videos to get you started.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S-wGvGVYtNU

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fW1pJvi5yIw

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FkVsa2H52KQ

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sSQYZl7D_fI

[Rosco Benson]

I prefer a 16 lb. recoil spring in a 5" 1911.

Given that you are new to 1911's, I'll note that you shouldn't let the slide slam forward empty. It beats up the sear/hammer engagement and can cause the hammer to start falling to half-cock. When loaded, the stripping of the round from the magazine cushions this impact.

Rosco

[spinmove_]

Good first 1911. Beware, they multiply if you feed them after...anytime. ;)

The ubiquity of 1911 info -- too much, really -- is a blessing of the Information Age. Suggest you seek out some of the dedicated 1911 sites for total immersion.

In the meantime, here's a fine start: https://pistol-forum.com/showthread.php?36518-The-Art-and-Science-of-Keeping-Your-1911-Running

Yeah, I just re-read through that thread again not long ago. It is quite the resource for info. It’s a good thing my wife seems to like my 1911 as, if they multiply, it’ll help that she likes them.


Congrats on the 1911. I think you got a good one for sure. The 1911 is an amazing weapon and can be a hobby for sure. I am not even close to being an expert on the 1911, but I will warn you that you are stepping into a world with lots of passionate people. It is easy to get overwhelmed with information on the 1911. Lots of opinions out there and lots of people "know" they are right. Just enjoy that 1911, get familiar with it and shoot it!

Here are a couple helpful videos to get you started.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S-wGvGVYtNU

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fW1pJvi5yIw

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FkVsa2H52KQ

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sSQYZl7D_fI

I’ll check those out, thank you.


I prefer a 16 lb. recoil spring in a 5" 1911.

Given that you are new to 1911's, I'll note that you shouldn't let the slide slam forward empty. It beats up the sear/hammer engagement and can cause the hammer to start falling to half-cock. When loaded, the stripping of the round from the magazine cushions this impact.

Rosco

Yup, I’m aware of that idiosyncrasy, but a good reminder.

[farscott]

I suggest changing the firing pin spring when you change the recoil spring. Wolff Gunsprings offers packages with both springs, making it very easy. On full-size (five-inch) guns, I tend to replace the recoil and firing pin springs at 5,000-round intervals.

As for spare parts, EGW and Wilson Combat are both good brands. I suggest keeping spare grip screws, spare extractors, spare firing pins, and the aforementioned springs. SA uses a non-standard 9mm-size firing pin to reduce primer flow, so be sure to purchase the correct firing pin. That being said, the best spare part kit is another 1911 as most of the parts require fitting and the second pistol tends to be cheaper than a good parts kit.

[spinmove_]

I suggest changing the firing pin spring when you change the recoil spring. Wolff Gunsprings offers packages with both springs, making it very easy. On full-size (five-inch) guns, I tend to replace the recoil and firing pin springs at 5,000-round intervals.

As for spare parts, EGW and Wilson Combat are both good brands. I suggest keeping spare grip screws, spare extractors, spare firing pins, and the aforementioned springs. SA uses a non-standard 9mm-size firing pin to reduce primer flow, so be sure to purchase the correct firing pin. That being said, the best spare part kit is another 1911 as most of the parts require fitting and the second pistol tends to be cheaper than a good parts kit.

So I need a spare 9mm sized firing pin for my SA or I should replace mine with a properly sized .45Auto firing pin?

Any idea what spring rates SA typically ships in their guns from the factory?

[MGW]

I like a 16# recoil spring and 23# mainspring. Tracks the flattest for me across different ammo. On the Springfield's I like to delete the internal lock system.

If you can afford it and have someone local it's worth having a good gunsmith look it over. Small adjustments to fitment issues, if there are any, can make a big difference in reliability over the long haul. Most good gunsmiths offer a basic reliability check for a small fee. I've owned several Springfield's and they all needed small tuneups out of the box.

[farscott]

So I need a spare 9mm sized firing pin for my SA or I should replace mine with a properly sized .45Auto firing pin?

Any idea what spring rates SA typically ships in their guns from the factory?

The hole in the breech face is too small to allow the .45 ACP pin to fit, so use the proper firing pin. It should be marketed for SA pistols. The stock recoil spring for a five-inch pistol is part number PI0030 and has a 16 lb rating.

[Robinson]

Just a note: Springfield no longer equips their 1911s with the ILS. I think starting in 2018 they use a standard main spring housing and internals. I think they also pin their ejectors now instead of gluing them.

[spinmove_]

Just a note: Springfield no longer equips their 1911s with the ILS. I think starting in 2018 they use a standard main spring housing and internals. I think they also pin their ejectors now instead of gluing them.

Interesting. I’ll have to check on what vintage mine is to see what it should have. Good heads up.

[Robinson]

Interesting. I’ll have to check on what vintage mine is to see what it should have. Good heads up.

It's pretty easy to tell whether your gun has the ILS or not. If the gun has the ILS there will be an extra round recessed disk on the left side of the main spring housing when you are looking at the rear of the gun. If you just have the retaining pin and no extra holes then you don't have the ILS.

If your gun does have the ILS it's not that big a deal, but if it were my gun I would probably replace it. If you do, make sure you get a regular main spring housing AND the regular internals to go with it. The internals can be purchased as a kit if desired.

[JohnO]

1911 User's Guide

http://www.10-8performance.com/pages/1911-User%27s-Guide.html

10-8 Performance 1911 Extractor Test
https://modernserviceweapons.com/?p=131

Considered by many as the only 1911 Ambi Safety to use due to superior design and contruction:
https://shopwilsoncombat.com/Ambidextrous-Thumb-Safety-Tactical-Levers-Bullet-Proof-Blue/productinfo/192BBP/

[Borderland]

There are some pretty easy enhancements to improve 1911 accuracy if you ever get to that point. A fitted barrel bushing and a trigger job will go a long way in that direction. That's the nice thing about a 1911, it isn't difficult or expensive to improve the accuracy of a production pistol. Tight slide to frame fit doesn't seem to be a huge issue with some production guns but that is also a feature on a semi-custom gun. I have a Colt 01991 production pistol that somehow was assembled with an exceptionally tight bushing and slide/frame fit. The accuracy is an eye popper.

Everyone should own at least one 1911. I wasn't so fortunate to be able to stop with just one.;) Enjoy.

[JTQ]

SA uses a non-standard 9mm-size firing pin to reduce primer flow, so be sure to purchase the correct firing pin. .


So I need a spare 9mm sized firing pin for my SA or I should replace mine with a properly sized .45Auto firing pin?



The hole in the breech face is too small to allow the .45 ACP pin to fit, so use the proper firing pin. It should be marketed for SA pistols.
For clarity, Springfield uses a proprietary size firing pin. It is neither the common 9mm size or the common .45 Auto size. The EGW pin at Brownell's shows the sizes...

https://www.brownells.com/handgun-parts/action-parts/firing-pin-parts/firing-pins/1911-firing-pin-prod26865.aspx?avs%7cMake_3=1911

.068 normally fits Colt and Caspian 9mm/.38 Super/.40/10mm.

.075 fits Springfield Armory 9mm/.38 Super/10mm/current-production .45 ACP.

.093 fits most .45 ACP,

[JTQ]

Elsewhere, I believe I recall the WilsonCombatRep posting 50% of their returns for service are a result of either insufficient or improper lubrication. I wouldn't think this would be such a big deal, but I guess in this era of "you only need 5 drops..."

Here are a couple of lube videos that may be helpful.

Dave Anderson with FMGPubs. Note how he lubes without field stripping.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9eUacqOIAaU

Wilson Combat

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t4D2mRlDo48

[JonInWA]

You've really gotten some great feedback, advice and links so far. Regarding recoil springs, some experimentation might be in order once you get the feel of the gun. Unless you're shooting +P ammunition, I suspect many 1911s that come with seeming industry default 18.5' springs (except Colt, which I believe still pretty much is standardized on 16' recoil springs) are a bit oversprung; try experimenting in the 14' to 16' range is my suggestion.

For lubing, I use a grease (Lucas Red "N" Tacky #2) for all metal-on-metal surfaces where there's reciprocation, such as on the slide and receiver rails, the barrel lugs and the corresponding match-up points in the slide, the barrel's exterior and the inside of the barrel bushing, and on the slide stop axle and barrel link pin's hole.

There's a boatload of excellent general lubricant oils out there-the 2 I'm currently running are Weapon Shield and Lucas Extreme Gun Oil; I've used the former happily for years and Ernest Langdon has recommended the latter, so I've obtained some of it.

I'm a big fan of G10 grips, as the G10 material has an inherently chalky grippiness, particularly useful if you're running a 1911 with a bald frontstrap. Hogue and VZ have excellent products, and fairly regularly have "Seconds," which seem to be either discontinued patters/colors or current selections with minor cosmetic blems; they're decently discounted. P-f member VCD makes exceptionally stippled grips, but unless you sand down the ridges a bit, they'll eat your cover garment-check VCD grips's site on line. Challis has some really good 1911-specific rubber O-rings that'll nicely anchor grip screws/bushings (preventing recoil vibration from loosening 'em) without having to resort to Locktite; another dirt-cheap alternative is to use red electronic fiber washers available from Amazon.

For magazines, I'm sponsored by Check-Mate Industries, but I would freely choose their 1911 magazines regardless. In a welded baseplate magazine, I'd stick with 7 rounders, especially for carry; for 8 rounders, I recommend an extended tube magazine to facilitate good operational reliability.

You can easily go into the weeds with all the available 1911 esoterica and mods, and the proliferation of the 1911 cottage aftermarket industry. I've found Wilson Combat and EGW to consistently provide quality components.

I'd just shoot it as you've currently got it for awhile to determine what specific need areas for upgrading/component swaps would best benefit you.

Best, Jon

[RevolverRob]

JonInWA hit most of the points I would make.

Here is the most critical point:

Don't mess with it, until you've shot the gun for awhile (a couple of thousand rounds).

Get the following things: Spare spings from ISMI or Wolff, good magazines (Brownells is running their deals on 3-packs of Wilson ETMs $84.99 (https://www.brownells.com/magazines/handgun-magazines/magazines/1911-8rd-45acp-elite-tactical-magazines-3-packs-pouch-prod71713.aspx?avs%7cSpecial-Filters_1=Salezz1zzClearance%7cRebate&avs%7cMake_3=1911)), and ammo.

The only other thing you may need is a bushing wrench.

[TCB]

45298

I snagged the same pistol as a backup to my CQB, slapped the cheap Wilson magwell on, one of their ambi safety’s, oversized magazine release, my preferred sights, grips and had the trigger done up a bit. It’s a solid blaster...I think it’s got 2-3000 rounds on it and hasn’t given me any problems. Even with all the work and parts I’m in it well under $900. Grip tape on the front strap works in lieu of checkering and it runs great on my Wilson ETM & CMC power 10+ magazines.

ETA: I use 14lb recoil springs and a 20lb mainspring.

[TheRoland]

1. Aggressive grips.
2. Maybe better sights. Maybe.
3. Wilson ETMs and Tripp Cobra Mags

[TheNewbie]

My favorite looking 1911's with a little work are Colts.


Out of the box, there is just something I like about the Springfield look.

[Joe in PNG]

I'd also, just for the s&g, go ahead and detail strip it, and put it back together again.

Get a good idea of what's where, and admire the genius of design that is JMB.

[psalms144.1]

I picked up a vanilla RO not long ago, though it's far from my first 1911. My thoughts:

1. On the front strap, I used Talon rubber stick-on grip material, and it feels MUCH better - and definitely cheaper than having it checkered and reparkerized!
2. If you decide to change the sights, you need to know that Springfield does NOT use a standard "Novak" cut - their sights are "Novak style," but have different dovetails. Make sure any sight replacements are designed for Springfield cuts
3. Are you a southpaw? If not, I'd think hard about the ambi safety. I've had quite a few over the years and have "bumped off" more than I'd care to think about - that outboard paddle can be surprisingly touchy. If you go ambi, make sure you get a quality unit and the action is stiff.
4. +1,000 on all the lube discussions. Keep it wetter than you would a Glock - the tolerances are MUCH tighter, and there's a lot more steel-on-steel moving parts
5. Good magazines are key to good working 1911s. I haven't had any issues with the 7-rounders Springfield sent with the pistol, but I wouldn't dream of using them for anything but range mags. Wilson makes great mags, as does Chip McCormick (my personal favorite, but mostly out of brand loyalty at this point).
6. Good call on the grip screws. Torx don't suck if you've got a Torx driver handy in your range bag, but, if you're like 99% of us, flat head are a safer bet.

Enjoy your new pistol. I know that I couldn't stop grinning when I got my hands on my RO - something about holding the pistol I learned to shoot on really brought back some of the "joy of shooting."

[MDFA]

Remember that 3 things work better wet. 1911's AR-15's and I'll leave the 3rd one to your imagination.....

[spinmove_]

Remember that 3 things work better wet. 1911's AR-15's and I'll leave the 3rd one to your imagination.....

Swimming pools! It’s swimming pools isn’t it? I bet it’s swimming pools...

[spinmove_]

It's pretty easy to tell whether your gun has the ILS or not. If the gun has the ILS there will be an extra round recessed disk on the left side of the main spring housing when you are looking at the rear of the gun. If you just have the retaining pin and no extra holes then you don't have the ILS.

If your gun does have the ILS it's not that big a deal, but if it were my gun I would probably replace it. If you do, make sure you get a regular main spring housing AND the regular internals to go with it. The internals can be purchased as a kit if desired.

The MSH seems to just have the retaining pin. So it seems I’ve lucked out.

[fixer]

I'm also in free fall in 1911 world as a newb.

I learned that all 3 of my new Springer's shoot with a much lower hold than I'm used to coming from Glocks and Berettas.

I learned immediately how to tension an extractor.

The internet is full of absolute crap about 1911 reliability. Tune extractor (easy) buy good mags (easier) and keep it lubed (no brains) and it runs as well as anything.

I also choked down the pain of getting Wilson mags ...buy once cry once thing.

My next step is to learn how to tune trigger weight with sear spring.

[SW CQB 45]

2008 MCOP 13K + down the tube and twice that in dry manipulations.....still going strong. Peppered to taste when SACS was kicking. A few parts were replaced due to high useage. Its returning to duty use.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=28GLa9T2CtI

Seriously thinking about a match barrel but it still shoots well and my tightness overrides my thoughts.

https://i.imgur.com/sGvYNf0h.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/1VgQSc5h.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/kthpqn0h.jpg

[TheRoland]

I learned that all 3 of my new Springer's shoot with a much lower hold than I'm used to coming from Glocks and Berettas.

...

The internet is full of absolute crap about 1911 reliability. Tune extractor (easy) buy good mags (easier) and keep it lubed (no brains) and it runs as well as anything.



Springfield tends to ship with weird POA setups, but not always. But I'm usually swapping sights anyways.

Your positive experience is because you've bought 1911s that are well made. There are tons of badly made 1911s out there. Tons.

[gato naranja]

The torx grip screws seem like a dumb idea, so I’ll be swapping those out with flat head screws, but since I’m doing that I might as well throw some decent G10 grips on it. Preferably something with a texture that’s somewhat grippy, but also comfortable enough for carry as I’d like to try my hand at that for giggles down the road. I’ll probably get the grips from LOK. I like VZ grips, don’t get me wrong (love the LTT grips and J-frame grips I have on my guns now), but I like to support Michigan companies when I can. So suggestions there would be appreciated.

I hated the torx screws until I didn't. With non-traditional grip materials like the VZ olive/black micartas - I prefer micarta to G10 - on my 9mm ROO, they at least make some sense to me. This was the first 1911 I had ever purchased new, bought because I got a smokin' deal on it at a time in my life when I needed to buy something a little frivolous but not go nuts.

Except for some initial FRBs which were the result of a very tight chamber along with some burrs on the slide, disconnector and sear/disco spring, it really performs above what I paid for it, and the Simply Rugged "Shootist" holster didn't break the bank either. I consider them good intro 1911s/everyday shooters, and I probably enjoy shooting this pistol at the range more than any centerfire pistol I have used in the last 30 years. So far the Springfield/Leatham-style Metalform magazines have been as reliable as I could ask for.

gn

[Paul Sharp]

I'm a huge Springfield 1911 fan, and have more of these bad boys than my wife knows about...

If you haven't, read through Todd's blog post; http://pistol-training.com/archives/6936 It's a good documentation of his 1911 journey, and if you read it from start to finish it might save you a bit of time.

I've run my 1911's pretty hard, teaching and taking multiple high round count classes back to back during the season at The Site. I follow Tim Herron's social media sites, he puts out a lot of great information and inspiration, plus he seems to be an all around good guy.

I install VCD grips on my 1911's per Tom Givens recommendation, and I love those. In a perfect world I could get VCD grips for my 92's as well.

I replaced the sights only because my eyes don't work with regular night sights. I replaced the recoil spring with a 14# spring because it was time to replace the recoil spring. I run CMC 8 and 10 round powermags, if you purchase CMC mags give them a call. Some of their mags won't work in the TRP Operator while they will work in the Operator. The Wilson 47D mags function flawlessly but I've only got 6 of those as opposed to several mag cans full of CMC mags. I believe Tim Herron runs 47D's 8 round mags without issue but I could be wrong regarding what he is currently using. At the time I spoke with him he was running 47D.

Other than that, I haven't done anything to my SA's except clean and lube. I think the SA 1911's are the only pistol SA does right.

TL/DR; The 1911 rule of thumb for a 1911 that runs flawlessly as possible seems to be; clean & lubed pistol, quality mags, and leave it alone.

[tlong17]

As a fellow noob to 1911's, how good are the OEM Springfield mags?

I bought one of the Mil-Spec models in the Defender Series sale since it was a price that couldn't be beat and I needed my first 1911 after way too many Glocks, Sig, Beretta's. My idea being that I have to have at least one 1911 and since I don't know if I love them yet, get a relatively inexpensive one from a brand that has a good 1911 reputation.

[JonInWA]

I'm a huge Springfield 1911 fan, and have more of these bad boys than my wife knows about...

If you haven't, read through Todd's blog post; http://pistol-training.com/archives/6936 It's a good documentation of his 1911 journey, and if you read it from start to finish it might save you a bit of time.

I've run my 1911's pretty hard, teaching and taking multiple high round count classes back to back during the season at The Site. I follow Tim Herron's social media sites, he puts out a lot of great information and inspiration, plus he seems to be an all around good guy.

I install VCD grips on my 1911's per Tom Givens recommendation, and I love those. In a perfect world I could get VCD grips for my 92's as well.

I replaced the sights only because my eyes don't work with regular night sights. I replaced the recoil spring with a 14# spring because it was time to replace the recoil spring. I run CMC 8 and 10 round powermags, if you purchase CMC mags give them a call. Some of their mags won't work in the TRP Operator while they will work in the Operator. The Wilson 47D mags function flawlessly but I've only got 6 of those as opposed to several mag cans full of CMC mags. I believe Tim Herron runs 47D's 8 round mags without issue but I could be wrong regarding what he is currently using. At the time I spoke with him he was running 47D.

Other than that, I haven't done anything to my SA's except clean and lube. I think the SA 1911's are the only pistol SA does right.

TL/DR; The 1911 rule of thumb for a 1911 that runs flawlessly as possible seems to be; clean & lubed pistol, quality mags, and leave it alone.

Paul, I believe that VCD will make/customize a 92 polymer grip for you. Check their website and call them.

Best, Jon

[MDFA]

Swimming pools! It’s swimming pools isn’t it? I bet it’s swimming pools...

Spinmove for the win... Well not really. But it was a good effort....

[TheRoland]

As a fellow noob to 1911's, how good are the OEM Springfield mags?



They're OK, but there's no room in my life for 7 round mags that are merely OK when there are fantastic 8 rounders available. Throw them in the trash or save them for administrative use.

[JSGlock34]

Most mags that come with 1911s are like Glock plastic sights...a placeholder for something better.

[spinmove_]

2008 MCOP 13K + down the tube and twice that in dry manipulations.....still going strong. Peppered to taste when SACS was kicking. A few parts were replaced due to high useage. Its returning to duty use.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=28GLa9T2CtI

Seriously thinking about a match barrel but it still shoots well and my tightness overrides my thoughts.

https://i.imgur.com/sGvYNf0h.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/1VgQSc5h.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/kthpqn0h.jpg

Ok, so, with those grips there. Do you prefer the thumb groove or the big ‘ol thumb scoop?

[SW CQB 45]

BIG!!!!

these are $20 grips that I just need to open up more.

https://i.imgur.com/QkU37kOh.jpg

I just need to get crazy with the dremel.

I like em this way

https://i.imgur.com/AaaT5eMh.jpg

[JonInWA]

The best 1911 $18 you'll spend (on grips, anyhow) are either of the Magpul 1911 grips. They're a superb value.

Best, Jon

[vcdgrips]

Paul et al

PM me. I have textured any number of customer supplied polymer 92 grips with much success. I can generally source base sets to work on as well.

Thank you all for your kind works.

To the OP:

It looks like you got a good one. I would consider shooting it for 500-1000 rounds. Figure out if it really needs anything.

I strongly suspect that presuming a 16 to 18.5 lb spring, quality, full power ammo and Chip McCormick/Wilson ETM/Cobra Tripp mags, your gun will be boringly reliable so long as you run it wet.

I like Mobil One for oil and Lithium based grease for grease but any quality lubricant/lubricant like product ( to include Vagisil) will work on a firearm if applied liberally in the right places.

There are any number of higher traction grips out there that will do you well to include all the brands mentioned.

Skateboard tape and the Wilson Slip on mag well are two low cost/high function proof of concept choices re a textured front strap/mag well.

Welcome to the Rabbit Hole of the 1911.

[Paul Sharp]

As a fellow noob to 1911's, how good are the OEM Springfield mags?

I bought one of the Mil-Spec models in the Defender Series sale since it was a price that couldn't be beat and I needed my first 1911 after way too many Glocks, Sig, Beretta's. My idea being that I have to have at least one 1911 and since I don't know if I love them yet, get a relatively inexpensive one from a brand that has a good 1911 reputation.

I use the OEMs for practice. CMC Powermags for carry.

[olstyn]

torx grip screws seem like a dumb idea, so I’ll be swapping those out with flat head screws

If I could replace every flat head and Philips screw everywhere on the planet with Torx, I'd do it. The only thing they don't do better than flat head and Philips is allowing for the use of improvised tools.

[spinmove_]

If I could replace every flat head and Philips screw everywhere on the planet with Torx, I'd do it. The only thing they don't do better than flat head and Philips is allowing for the use of improvised tools.

Which is precisely why I would want flathead screws holding my grips on. How are Torx screws superior to other screws other than having a different head?

[Jason Burton]

I may be repeating what others have already posted but as this is your first 1911 I would offer the following suggestions:

Magazines... don’t do the magazine Macarena, start by getting Wilson 47 (7rd) magazines. There is more to feeding a 1911 than just the magazine, for example some guns may not work perfectly with an 8 or 10rd magazine because of the gun not the magazine. The Wilson 47 offers the least amount of variables and is still my preferred magazine.

If you want an 8rd magazine get the Wilson Combat ETM-HD (500C-HD)... this is a superior magazine to the 47D.

Recoil springs... these are cheap insurance, change around every 2500 rounds. The original spring rate is 16# but I use and like 18.5# springs because they last longer. I can tell no difference between the two when it comes to shooting the gun.

Firing pin spring... change it with the recoil spring.

Mainspring... standard weight is 23#, unless it breaks it should last you almost the life of the gun.

Spare parts can be a good idea but I seldom (never???) see extractors come out of a package and go into a gun with correct geometry. Doesn’t mean it can’t happen or won’t work... I like a use Wilson Combat Bulletproof extractors.

The gun needs to be lubricated. I’m not dogmatic about what type or brand of oil and anything is better than nothing at all... except for Frog Lube of course.

Your rear sight looks really tall... I would recommend shooting the gun at 25 yards to insure it is not shooting high.

[olstyn]

Which is precisely why I would want flathead screws holding my grips on. How are Torx screws superior to other screws other than having a different head?

The driver never slides out of the side of the channel like flat heads do, and there is a much lower propensity for stripping out the heads than Philips due to the fact that the driver basically locks into place in the head vs the Philips being tapered.

[RevolverRob]

The driver never slides out of the side of the channel like flat heads do, and there is a much lower propensity for stripping out the heads than Philips due to the fact that the driver basically locks into place in the head vs the Philips being tapered.

Despite that being the nature of the design, I have stripped 10x as many small Torx machine screws than I have flathead. The reason is precisely because the flat head slides out the side if you attempt to apply too much torque.

I actually find Torx to be inferior to allen in most circumstances, it appears to be quite difficult to properly harden the splines on small torx fasteners. This is especially true when you have a deep head that can hold roughly half of the short end of an Allen key in it. And in a pinch, a flat head screwdriver can be filed to fit into an allen head bolt and loosen it. I usually have to cut off stripped Torx heads, or dremel them out to fit an allen key.

For small fasteners with shallow or domed heads nothing is superior to the flathead, because they resist over-torquing by virtue of the design. They are not ideal for rapid assembly or high stress loads, certainly they suck for use with powertools. But for a hand driver and fine assembly, I find the flathead to be perfect in most instances.

[JonInWA]

Regular slotted screws are stronger, as less screwhead material is displaced by the slot (vs torx and Allen) and have a greater chance for being tightened or removed with tools more likely to be on hand in the field. Challis O-rings or red fiber computer washers preclude screw loosening, yet allow for easy removal when necessary. Best, Jon

[jeep45238]

Despite that being the nature of the design, I have stripped 10x as many small Torx machine screws than I have flathead. The reason is precisely because the flat head slides out the side if you attempt to apply too much torque.


Torx will allow more torque to be applied without stripping - IF the driver is held perpendicular to the applied force. Stripping beyond that is typically a material/corrosion/faulty installation issue.

A major bonus for torx is a lack of standard or metric. T27 is T27, etc. - which means stripping due to the improper tool selection is reduced. as well.

[03RN]

Good gun.

I prefer tritium front, plain rear. Wilson bullet proof extended mag release, fbfps, extractor, harrison short trigger, S&A checkered msh with lanyard loop, and grips to taste.

SA mags are actually pretty good.

Wilson 47D or wilson vickers mags other wise.

I use 10rd cmc mags for competition and 10rd wilson mags with the rolled lips for carry.

I like whatever automotive lithium grease i have in my bag.

[RevolverRob]

Torx will allow more torque to be applied without stripping - IF the driver is held perpendicular to the applied force. Stripping beyond that is typically a material/corrosion/faulty installation issue.

A major bonus for torx is a lack of standard or metric. T27 is T27, etc. - which means stripping due to the improper tool selection is reduced. as well.

And usually the driver is not fully perpendicular to the object force is being applied. This is the case for just about anything that is not hex-head.

A properly machined wide slot with properly machined and fitted bit will give pretty much all the torque necessary pn small fasteners.

I find I’m more likely to overtorque Torx, which contributes to stripping them in addition to the, near perfect perpendicular interface needed.

I only use metric machine screws where possible. But a proper set of flat head screwdrivers is a must have for anyone. Most people have two-three sizes, but need about 15 or 20.

[spinmove_]

I may be repeating what others have already posted but as this is your first 1911 I would offer the following suggestions:

Magazines... don’t do the magazine Macarena, start by getting Wilson 47 (7rd) magazines. There is more to feeding a 1911 than just the magazine, for example some guns may not work perfectly with an 8 or 10rd magazine because of the gun not the magazine. The Wilson 47 offers the least amount of variables and is still my preferred magazine.

If you want an 8rd magazine get the Wilson Combat ETM-HD (500C-HD)... this is a superior magazine to the 47D.

Recoil springs... these are cheap insurance, change around every 2500 rounds. The original spring rate is 16# but I use and like 18.5# springs because they last longer. I can tell no difference between the two when it comes to shooting the gun.

Firing pin spring... change it with the recoil spring.

Mainspring... standard weight is 23#, unless it breaks it should last you almost the life of the gun.

Spare parts can be a good idea but I seldom (never???) see extractors come out of a package and go into a gun with correct geometry. Doesn’t mean it can’t happen or won’t work... I like a use Wilson Combat Bulletproof extractors.

The gun needs to be lubricated. I’m not dogmatic about what type or brand of oil and anything is better than nothing at all... except for Frog Lube of course.

Your rear sight looks really tall... I would recommend shooting the gun at 25 yards to insure it is not shooting high.

I did snag one Wilson 47 (not the 47D) when I picked the gun up as per your recommendation in a video you did a while ago. Why the ETM-HD over the standard ETM?

16 lb or 18.5lb seems to be about what everyone seems to recommend. I’ll scoop some 18.5 lb Wolff recoil and firing pin spring sets.

So far I haven’t had any extractor related issues, but I haven’t that many rounds through it yet though. I plan on running it through the 10-8 Performance test here soon to see what happens. I’ll see if I can’t get an extra extractor soon.

I did throw a mag full at a B-8 at 25 yds. It did seem to hit an inch or two high, but I chalked that up to unfamiliarity with the gun. As I get more rounds through it I’ll get a better idea.

I appreciate the info, thank you

[jeep45238]

Most people have two-three sizes, but need about 15 or 20.

Hence the torx :)

[spinmove_]

Thank you, everyone, that’s contributed so far. I greatly the appreciate the no-nonsense info I’m getting. Honestly this platform really doesn’t seem all that ridiculously complicated or difficult to deal with. No, it’s not as simple as a Glock, but it’s not rocket surgery to take care of either, and for the ergos and shoot ability of the platform it seems worth the little extra effort.

I’m definitely looking forward to getting more trigger time on this gun and platform in general.

[03RN]

Its really not.

Do you change your own oil/brakes? Do you sharpen your own chainsaw? Youll be fine.

[spinmove_]

Its really not.

Do you change your own oil/brakes? Do you sharpen your own chainsaw? Youll be fine.

I haven’t changed my own oil and brakes in a while, but I know how. I need to get the proper tools and what have you to start doing that at home now that we’re officially home owners. Don’t own a chainsaw yet, but that doesn’t strike me as super difficult either.

[spinmove_]

So, does anyone have any suggestions on leather holsters for IWB and OWB?

[JonInWA]

For leather, Kramer, El Paso Saddlery, Galco Royal Guard are 3 that I've had years of successful use with. Best, Jon

[NPV]

So, does anyone have any suggestions on leather holsters for IWB and OWB?

Depends on what you’re looking for but Milt Sparks and TT Gunleather make the best and most-accessible IWB holsters. 5 Shot is also phenomenal but that’s if you can get one.

There are many others out there but I keep it simple and stick with these know companies and have not been disappointed.

[03RN]

Ryan Grizzle, rough side out horsehide.
45365

For production a milt sparks sumer special from brownells. I bet they have a black friday sale right now

[RevolverRob]

So, does anyone have any suggestions on leather holsters for IWB and OWB?

You'll probably have to order something custom. Guns with rails still aren't widely supported at least off-the-shelf.

Best holsters I've ever used come from Red Nichols Holsters (https://www.rednicholsholsters.com/) in Australia. After Red, Milt Sparks would be my #2, Kramer my #3. Red typically has a turn around time measured in a few weeks to a month, where as I believe Kramer is 8-12 weeks out right now and Sparks is 12-16 weeks.

Either way, they are all great holsters, particularly when you opt for horsehide.

[LockedBreech]

When I got my first 1911 (a Colt O1091) I made the choice not to cheap out and outfitted it with Wilson ETMs from the get-go. To date I still don't have a single failure out of that 1911 and we're at 1700 rounds give or take.

Wilson mags are worth the money. A few extra bucks and you just don't have to think about that variable anymore.

[JSGlock34]

So, does anyone have any suggestions on leather holsters for IWB and OWB?

Milt Sparks VM2 is the best IWB holster I've ever used.

[JAD]

Milt Sparks VM2 is the best IWB holster I've ever used.

It’s real good and I have a number of them, but it does put the gun profoundly behind the hip at 4:00+. I always worry a little more about a gun back there printing.

[RevolverRob]

If you have no ass like me, the VM2 is too far behind the hip. The original Summer Special (higher ride) works better at tucking the gun into the hollow of the body on the side. The SSII rides lower and if you hip falls away like mine, you end up with a lot of gun down low that isn’t well supported.

Red Nichol’s Avenger-style holster is superior to the original Bruce Nelson design, by laying flatter on the belt, being substantially lighter and having locking tabs that lock under the belt loop and keep the holster from turning without needing to tighten the belt into oblivion.

For me, 15-degree cant at 3-3:30 is pretty much ideal, whether IWB or OWB.

[spinmove_]

If you have no ass like me, the VM2 is too far behind the hip. The original Summer Special (higher ride) works better at tucking the gun into the hollow of the body on the side. The SSII rides lower and if you hip falls away like mine, you end up with a lot of gun down low that isn’t well supported.

Red Nichol’s Avenger-style holster is superior to the original Bruce Nelson design, by laying flatter on the belt, being substantially lighter and having locking tabs that lock under the belt loop and keep the holster from turning without needing to tighten the belt into oblivion.

For me, 15-degree cant at 3-3:30 is pretty much ideal, whether IWB or OWB.

If I’m perfectly honest, I actually have not much ass to work with and find anything that rides too low or too behind the hip generally ends up practically falling off of me or pulls my pants down unless I cinch my belt down to the point of cutting off circulation. I typically carry a G19 at around 3-3:30 in a JMCK IWB3 if I’m carrying IWB. I’ve got too much of a spare tire to attempt comfortable and proper AIWB at the moment.

[RevolverRob]

If I’m perfectly honest, I actually have not much ass to work with and find anything that rides too low or too behind the hip generally ends up practically falling off of me or pulls my pants down unless I cinch my belt down to the point of cutting off circulation. I typically carry a G19 at around 3-3:30 in a JMCK IWB3 if I’m carrying IWB. I’ve got too much of a spare tire to attempt comfortable and proper AIWB at the moment.

Yea, you’ll have to order one, but I would call Milt Sparks and get an original Summer Special for a railed 1911. I don’t remember if Sparks does horsehide in the SSI but if they do, it’ll be about as thin as kydex. Even still the rough out cowhide version is extremely well built and will keep the gun from walking about on the hip. I believe they can do the SSI in straight drop, 5-degree, or 15-degree cant.

[JSGlock34]

If you have no ass like me, the VM2 is too far behind the hip. The original Summer Special (higher ride) works better at tucking the gun into the hollow of the body on the side. The SSII rides lower and if you hip falls away like mine, you end up with a lot of gun down low that isn’t well supported.

Personally I find an all-steel 5" gun in a traditional SSII is prone to shifting cant and position. I find this especially true in kydex versions like the JMCK IWB3. The VM2 is much more stable. I also think the VM2 has an edge in concealment, as the loops aren't on the holster body.

But there's a reason why there are different holster designs.

[noguns]

Anyone have experience with ed Brown mags? Only reason I'm asking is because I have a few problematic welded 1911 mags that I'd like exchange. Ed Brown has a program where you can trade in mags for their own for $10 each. I figured I'd get then7 rounders to maximize reliability.

I primarily use the Wilson terms also.

[JTQ]

Anyone have experience with ed Brown mags? Only reason I'm asking is because I have a few problematic welded 1911 mags that I'd like exchange. Ed Brown has a program where you can trade in mags for their own for $10 each. I figured I'd get then7 rounders to maximize reliability.

I primarily use the Wilson terms also.

Ed Brown mags are made by CheckMate. If you like the features, they are well made, and the exchange program is a bargain.

[JohnK]

I guess at this point I am just regurgitating what others have already said. I prefer 18.5# springs in my carry gun(s). I feel like the extra weight makes up for a sludgy, dry gun. At least when I have been in classes and haven't been up on cleaning the gun for several hundred (or thousands) of rounds, the extra weight compensates for the mank. That's important to me because I am not great at breaking down and oiling my carry gun regularly. So if it is a touch on the dry side, I don't typically worry about that.

I have used 16# springs in the past in my training guns and I feel like the slide cycles faster and seems to batter the frame a bit. I have no visual indication of that other than how my hands feel during and after shooting. I have just begun trying 17# springs and will be giving the Wilson shock buffers a try in training guns, but will not put them in a carry gun. I'll see how that goes.

Spare parts: recoil springs, a fitted firing pin stop is probably a good idea since that seems to get the biggest beating. I don't think anything of MIM or cast parts. If you take a strong liking to the 1911 in your first 2K rounds, it will multiply. AFAIAC a spare gun negates the need for spare parts. You just drop gun no.2 in the holster while no. 1 gets sorted. I had this occur when my CQB had to go back to the mothership for a brief visit.

Lube: See above. I like militec and have been using it for 10 years on all my guns. But that is me.

For the rest, take Jason Burton's recommendations. He knows a "thing or two" around 1911s. Enjoy!

[spinmove_]

Alright, so a little over 150 rounds through the gun and so far it’s having 0 issues. I bought a couple of the Wilson ETM mags (not the ETM-HDs like Mr. Burton recommended because I had a brain fart during ordering) and those have had 0 issues. It passed the 10-8 Performance test with flying colors, so it would seem I need to do nothing with the extractor, which is awesome.

I’ve got roughly 5 mags total for it so far. I’ll probably buy an extra Wilson 47 so I have two mags of each kind that I currently have (OEM, Wilson 47, Wilson ETM). I bought 3 sets of Wolff recoil/firing pin spring combo packs, so I’m good there for a while. I picked up some Lucas Gun oil with the applicator as apparently this is better for metal framed guns and I kinda needed something with an applicator anyway. The stock sights seem to hit POA/POI at 25yds with 230gr Blazer Brass. I’ve got some 230gr Lawman incoming to start feeding it so we’ll confirm that when it comes in. I also got the 10-8 armorer tool thing so that should help with various tasks.

So at this point it sounds like all I need now is a spare firing pin stop to be fitted, a spare extractor to be tuned, and a spare slide lock lever. Is it all recommended that I have this thing shipped off to have those parts tuned or are they easy enough to fit/tune myself?

So far I’m totally digging it as I expected that I would and the wife seems to definitely not hate it as well.

[Robinson]

So at this point it sounds like all I need now is a spare firing pin stop to be fitted, a spare extractor to be tuned, and a spare slide lock lever. Is it all recommended that I have this thing shipped off to have those parts tuned or are they easy enough to fit/tune myself?

That's always the question with 1911s isn't it? I can fit things like thumb safeties, grip safeties, an extractor, a trigger, maybe sights... but there are still things I simply won't do myself. Starting up a relationship with a good 1911 smith is a good step to take IMO.

For extractors, my advice is to buy a couple WC Bullet Proof extractors as extras and learn to fit and tune them yourself. Everything else depends on your abilities and comfort level with doing it. Ideally someone who uses the 1911 in a serious capacity is also a 1911 armorer of sorts and can handle most repairs and parts replacements. I do what I can (and fortunately I don't have parts breakages much) but I'm certainly not where I would like to be as far as 1911 armorer skills. I keep trying to learn how to do things a bit more each year, so maybe someday.