The All-things Malkoff Wiki

[NH Shooter]

Over the years P-F members have reached out to me with questions about Malkoff lights in response to the photos of them I have posted. Based on that, I figure this thread might be of value.

One of the things that differentiate Malkoff lights from many others is the fact you can purchase components separately (vs. buying a complete light) and configure a light to your liking. This also includes a complete list of repair parts, making these lights very easy to maintain and repair. This will be one focus of the many topics I plan to post, making this thread a work in-progress. I invite any P-F member to share their own experience with Malkoff lights.

The first of many to come, I'll kick it off with this...

Online Malkoff Resources

While inhabited almost entirely by flashlight nerds, a wealth of information can be found in the Malkoff sub-forum on the Candlepower.com website. Things like beam shots, runtime graphs, reviews and commentary about Malkoff lights, etc. can be found there. If you own a Malkoff light or would like to learn more about them, I recommend spending some time on this site;

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/forumdisplay.php?232-Malkoff

You'll find my contributions there under NH Lumens.

To be continued...

[BillSWPA]

For those unfamiliar with Malkoff, price is more than many alternatives but less than Surefire. The quality is worth every penny, exceeding that of anything else I have seen, including Surefire. Gene Malkoff runs a small US based business, and if I understand correctly his lights are made in the US.

His Bodyguard versions 1 and 2 have one of the best user interfaces I have ever seen, coming on in high without exception with every tailswitch press, and switching to medium after being on for 8 seconds.

His LED drop in units for Surefire lights have turned my obsolete incandescent Z-series lights into lights with continuing usefulness.

Gene is a good guy to deal with.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[blues]

Gene, Cathy and Todd are in a class by themselves, imho. If I need it and they make it, I buy it. (Sometimes even if I don't really need it...yet.)

The only light I've purchased in recent years that wasn't a Malkoff was a headlamp. (Since it's not yet in their catalog and I wasn't interested in using a head strap that would accept one of their lights as it's less useful to me.)

[GyroF-16]

Thanks for doing this...
More info + easier access to info = better shopping decisions

[Clusterfrack]

My defensive EDC is a BG2 with a single cell body. It’s the best light I’ve seen for the purpose.

But the Malkoff universe is hard to navigate. Thanks for the guidance, NH Shooter.

[Mike C]

NH Shooter, I am one of those who's reached out to you. Thanks for all of your help and info it was invaluable. I love my lights. The combo you recommended with the X300 body from Arisaka and V2 head has been amazing. Also loving my MDC Bodyguard.

[Jamie]

Thank you NH Shooter

I own, iirc, 6 Surefire flashlights and a couple of 3 cell Mag Lights...all have been "Malkoff"ed.

Great folks and a great business. Incredibly patient with my questions and always responsive to my queries.

[Doc_Glock]

But the Malkoff universe is hard to navigate.

That is a huge reason I have never ordered one.

[javemtr]

That is a huge reason I have never ordered one.
Lights in general are a huge rabbit hole to go down, and Malkoff are no exception. Candlepowerforums.com is a great resource, but I understand if people are unwilling to spend time on yet another forum/topic.
I think it's a great idea to use this thread to help out anyone on this board with questions regarding Malkoff products. I own a number of their drop-ins and MDC lights and have had nothing but good experiences, so I have no issue singing their praises here! :o

[NH Shooter]

To make sense of some of the techy talk to follow, I'll post definitions to make the conversation easier to follow. I will undoubtedly be adding to this post as the thread progresses.

General Definitions

Bezel - the front section of the flashlight (the head) that contains the LED module.

Body - the center section of the flashlight that holds the batteries

Clicky switch - a switch that when partially depressed provide momentary operation, when fully pressed "clicks" to lock the switch into constant operation. Fully pressing the switch a second time "unclicks" it and turns off the light.

Drop-in - first used to describe an integral LED module to replace the incandescent bulb assembly used in Surefire lights. Term is still used today to describe interchangeable LED modules (also referred to as "engines" by flashlight nerds).

EDC - every day carry

E-series light - Surefire designation for their small, hand held lights. These are smaller than the P-series lights, and generally speaking the components are not interchangeable. The E-series size lights are very suitable for EDC carry.

Fight light - a hand held light dedicated 100% to defensive use, especially in conjunction with a handgun. In its purest form, it is a light with the following features;


Single output only
Single switch located on the tailcap, momentary function only
Blinding output - 10,000 lux or more, and the more the better

IMR cell - a rechargeable cell that uses lithium-manganese chemistry. IMR cells do not have the energy density of the ICR chemistry used in Li-ion protected cells, but is considered a safer chemistry. For this reason, IMR cells generally do not have a protection circuit and are physically shorter than a protected cell of the same size designation. This can be an important consideration when building a "Lego light." Also see Rechargeable cells.

Lego light - a light assembled using parts and pieces from different manufacturers. In this thread, it will also refer to lights using all Malkoff parts that are not available as turnkey (preconfigured) lights.

Lumens vs. Lux - lumens is a measure of the total light emitted by a light source without regard to the distribution of the light.

Lux is the amount of light (in lumens) hitting a target one square meter in size. In typical flashlight specifications, the target is specified as one meter away from the light source. Because of this, lux and candela can generally be used interchangeably (https://www.rapidtables.com/calc/light/lux-to-candela-calculator.html) when comparing specs of different lights and should be considered the true indicator of the brightness of the light in the center of the beam.

Primary cell - refers to single use, non-rechargeable batteries (such AA alkaline, CR123A lithium batteries, etc.)

Protected cell - a Li-ion with an integral protection circuit board. The board is a round wafer attached to the end of the battery (negative side) that protects the cell from shorts, over-discharge (low volt cutoff), over-current, etc. The use of protected cells is recommended, though protected cells are longer and can sometimes lead to fitment issues. Additionally, the circuit boards are somewhat fragile and are not recommended in WML applications where repeated recoil may damage them. FWIW, I've never had a protected cell become damaged to the point it would no longer function, but recently I did receive a brand new protected cell with a defective protection circuit (battery read zero volts).

Rechargeable cells - typically a lithium ion (Li-ion) cell that uses a dedicated battery charger. These cells are designated by numbers that indicate their nominal physical size in millimeters. Example: an 18650 cell measures 18mm in diameter and 65.0mm in length. The most common sizes that we'll be referring to are 16340 (approximately the same physical size as a CR123A primary); 16650 (two CR123A batteries); 18500 (1.5 times the length of a CR123A and 2mm larger in diameter); 18650 (2 times the length of a CR123A, 2mm larger in diameter). A wealth of Li-ion cell knowledge can be found on BatteryUniversity.com (https://batteryuniversity.com/)

Also see Protected cell and IMR cell.

Spill - the amount of light surrounding the central hot spot of the beam. A light with "good spill" with have a higher ratio of lumens to lux (a more even distribution of lumens across the beam).

Tailcap - the rear section of the flashlight. May or may not include the switch, but in this thread the tailcap does include the switch.

Throw - how far the beam of light reaches. A light with "good throw" will have a higher ratio of lux to lumens (focus most of the lumens in the central hot spot with fewer lumens in the spill).

TIR lens - Total Internal Reflection, a lens that is used in place of a reflector.

Twisty switch - generally referring to the switch included with the old Surefire 6P, a switch located in the tailcap that only provide momentary activation when pressed. The tailcap must be tightened to the body to provide constant-on operation (thus the "twisty" designation).

3P/6P/9P - the series of professional-grade Surefire lights that started it all, these numbers refer to the number of 3-volt CR123A cells the light holds: 3P hold one, 6P holds two, 9P holds three. The original Surefire 6P can still be found on ebay and serves as an excellent starting point to build a Lego light.


Malkoff-specific Definitions

High/low switch - an optional switch that can be used in the MDX head (bezel). A simple, rugged and reliable switch that gives full output when the bezel is tightened to the body, and reduced output when the bezel is loosened slightly.

Hound Dog - series of high-throw (high lux to lumens) lights

MDC - Malkoff Daily Carry, these are the small Malkoff LED flashlights (https://malkoffdevices.com/collections/malkoff-small-led-flashlights) that are the same size as the Surefire E-series. The Malkoff MDC heads will (with few exceptions) fit on Surefire E-series lights and is a common upgrade to the older incandescent SF lights.

MDX head - used on the MD2/3/4 bodies. This head is available with a 16.5mm opening and a 22.3mm opening (typically used with the Malkoff drop-ins that use a TIR lens).

MD2 - refers to series of lights (or just the flashlight body) that are similar in size to the Surefire 6P that hold two CR123A cells. The MD2 is bored to also accept the larger 18mm diameter cells, such as the 18650.

MD3 - refers to series of lights (or just the flashlight body) that are similar in size to the Surefire 9P that hold three CR123A cells. The MD is bored to also accept the larger 18mm diameter cells, such as a pair of 18500 cells.

MD4 - if Surefire had ever made a 12P, this would be the Malkoff equivalent. The MD4 body holds four CR123A cells or a pair of 18650 cells. Used when the longest possible runtime takes priority over size/ease-of-carry.

Wildcat - series of high-lumen/low-lux flood pattern lights

[Doc_Glock]

Thanks for all the terminology and understanding. My next tactical light will be a Malkoff.

Sorry to muddy this thread, but Malkoff does not produce any lights with a switch on the side near the bezel. I consider this ideal for a utility light.

Is there a “Malkoff” of the utility light world I should look at? Something like this:

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191122/7e2d6815b7a0ce60ae35486a6e0d3b79.jpg

[NH Shooter]

Is there a “Malkoff” of the utility light world I should look at? Something like this:

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191122/7e2d6815b7a0ce60ae35486a6e0d3b79.jpg

I would consider any quality flashlight with a UI, output and beam pattern of your liking suitable for those tasks. Zebras seem a common choice for this!

FWIW, my most used light is this one, a Malkoff Lego that I use for taking the dogs out for their final outing every winter night;

https://i.ibb.co/8BPHwvC/M91B-3.jpg

Part List

1 - M91B head with high/low switch (https://malkoffdevices.com/collections/large-malkoff-led-flashlights/products/m91-md3?variant=21259135844432)
1 - MD3 body with standard tailcap (https://malkoffdevices.com/collections/parts-and-miscellaneous-items/products/md3-body-and-switch)
2 - KP 18500 2000mAh protected cells (https://www.illumn.com/batteries-chargers-and-powerpax-carriers/batteries/18500-keeppower-2000mah-panasonic-ncr18500-protected-button-top.html)

[BillSWPA]

Thanks for all the terminology and understanding. My next tactical light will be a Malkoff.

Sorry to muddy this thread, but Malkoff does not produce any lights with a switch on the side near the bezel. I consider this ideal for a utility light.

Is there a “Malkoff” of the utility light world I should look at? Something like this:

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191122/7e2d6815b7a0ce60ae35486a6e0d3b79.jpg

Consider that the switch is one of the components that can eventually wear out (although this has been rare for me), and a tail switch that screws onto the body is easily replaced.

[NH Shooter]

Consider that the switch is one of the components that can eventually wear out (although this has been rare for me), and a tail switch that screws onto the body is easily replaced.

...and the switch in a Malkoff tailcap can be ordered as a separate part (https://malkoffdevices.com/collections/parts-and-miscellaneous-items/products/mcclicky-switch-boot-and-retainer) and is easily replaceable.

[Drang]

Thread subscribed.

But the Malkoff universe is hard to navigate. Thanks for the guidance, NH Shooter.


That is a huge reason I have never ordered one.

I concur with both these statements.

[Totem Polar]

I can’t add much to this thread, save for: my original 6P (very original, early 90’s fully round) with a Malkoff "warm" drop-in giving new life is my favorite hand-held.

I actually found a new old stock 6P online for 34 bucks the other day, so that’ll be a spare, once another drop-in arrives from Malkoff. Less than a benjamin for a great, fool-proof light.

[jellydonut]

I would consider any quality flashlight with a UI, output and beam pattern of your liking suitable for those tasks. Zebras seem a common choice for this!

FWIW, my most used light is this one, a Malkoff Lego that I use for taking the dogs out for their final outing every winter night;

https://i.ibb.co/8BPHwvC/M91B-3.jpg

Part List

1 - M91B head with high/low switch (https://malkoffdevices.com/collections/large-malkoff-led-flashlights/products/m91-md3?variant=21259135844432)
1 - MD3 body with standard tailcap (https://malkoffdevices.com/collections/parts-and-miscellaneous-items/products/md3-body-and-switch)
2 - KP 18500 2000mAh protected cells (https://www.illumn.com/batteries-chargers-and-powerpax-carriers/batteries/18500-keeppower-2000mah-panasonic-ncr18500-protected-button-top.html)

All of my Zebralights (4 pieces) are dead, from barely being used. None of them received any abuse. I'm never buying Zebralights or any other Chicom garbage again, and would not recommend them to anyone else either.

[NH Shooter]

All of my Zebralights (4 pieces) are dead, from barely being used. None of them received any abuse. I'm never buying Zebralights or any other Chicom garbage again, and would not recommend them to anyone else either.

Good to know. I never owned one but for taking the garbage out at night they seemed a viable choice. That said, 10-4 on Chicom lights in general.

On another note, since we can't edit our own posts after a brief period of time (or after someone replies), my goal is to build an index in the OP that leads to my "installments" once I have them all posted. I'd be doing so as I add each installment, but I cannot. I tried using PM to ask for assistance, but evidently the mods are shit here. :-)

[NH Shooter]

Not everyone is interested in "building" their light and would prefer to buy a complete light, ready to go. This installment will look at the currently-available Malkoff turnkey lights with an emphasis on the kind of lights we P-F members are interested in.

Malkoff turnkey lights are categorized by size as follows;

Small Malkoff LED Lights (https://malkoffdevices.com/collections/malkoff-small-led-flashlights)

The Malkoff MDC (Malkoff Daily Carry) lights are essentially the size-equivalent of the Surefire E-series lights. These lights are available in a useful array of models, including 1-AA, 2-AA, 1-CR123A and 2-CR123A configurations. The 1-AA and 2-AA lights have a maximum voltage input of 3.2 volts, as well as a few of the 1-CR123A models. For this reason, it's important to avoid using 14500 Li-ion cells in the AA models, and avoid using 16340 Li-ion cells with those models intended to run only on a single CR123A primary battery. The 2-CR123A configurations have a maximum input voltage input of 6 volts, intended to be used with either two CR123A primary batteries or a single 4.2 volt Li-ion. The voltage range is clearly printed on all MDC heads to avoid any confusion as to what cells are suitable.

IMO, there are a couple of standouts in this category. The first is the MDC HA 1AA (https://malkoffdevices.com/collections/malkoff-small-led-flashlights/products/mdc-ha-1aa-flashlight) model. Though it's no barn burner, it is perhaps the most useful task light in the category. Able to run on available-anywhere-on-Earth AA alkaline batteries, or lithium primary AA or rechargeable NIMH AA, it is a light that is built like a tank and can be operated on these common cells. Don't let that low setting of just 0.3 lumens fool you, it is an extremely useful setting for close-up administrative tasks with dark-adapted vision.

The other standout in the group is the Bodyguard v.1 (https://malkoffdevices.com/collections/malkoff-small-led-flashlights/products/mdc-bodyguard). A compact yet powerful light, it is rated to run on either a 16340 cell to produce 700 lumens, or on a single CR123A primary to produce 400 lumens. Though it is technically a single mode light, it automatically steps down to around 200 lumens after eight seconds. A quick blip of the switch resets the timer and brings it back to full output. For "flash 'n dash" operation that is typically used in a defensive scenario, the step-down does not come into play. For constant-on operation to navigate a dark street, 200 lumens is more than enough and greatly extends the runtime of the light. It's really a great light to EDC in the bottom of a pocket;

https://i.ibb.co/K7J7CbW/bgv1-1.jpg

Spoiler Alert - the Bodyguard v.1 head has an acceptable maximum input voltage of 6V. When used with a pair of CR123A cells, its output jumps to over 900 lumens. More on this in the upcoming Lego Build installment.


Mid-sized Malkoff LED Flashlights (https://malkoffdevices.com/collections/malkoff-mid-sized-led-flashlights)

These are the Malkoff MD2 (6P size) lights that universally can be operated with either a pair of CR123A primaries or a single 18650 Li-ion cell. While these MD2 lights are (like all Malkoff products) built like tanks and make for superb task lights, they are somewhat underwhelming performance-wise compared to similarly-sized competitive products. There is, however, one exception to that statement and is a superb choice for a fight light - the MD2-M61HOT (https://malkoffdevices.com/collections/malkoff-mid-sized-led-flashlights/products/m61hot-md2?variant=21235086723) model. Rated at 740 lumens and 20,000 lux, this light is a top-choice for a defensive light. Due to the high current draw, the light is intended to be used only with a single 18650 Li-ion cell.

With the addition of either a SF twisty or clicky tailcap and the use of an IMR 18650 cell (needed to fit in the reduced battery compartment length by using the SF tailcap), you can have a light that is only 4-3/4" AOL yet performs like a larger light. This is IMO a really fantastic light as a turnkey option that can be made even better with just a touch of Lego-ing;

https://i.ibb.co/85PfCmZ/Carry-1.jpg


A honorable mention in both the small and midsize categories is the MDC Bodyguard v.2 (https://malkoffdevices.com/collections/malkoff-mid-sized-led-flashlights/products/malkoff-mdc-bodyguard-v2-18650-flashlight). As a turnkey option, the more powerful v.2 head is placed on a unique E-series size body that can hold a single 18650 cell or a pair of CR123A primaries, which provides for longer runtimes vs. the v.1 turnkey version. The unique body does add considerable length to the light, making it a half-inch longer than the MD2 Lego above. At over 1,000 lumens (and 250 lumens after the 8-second step down to low) the beam provides a nice balance of throw and spill. Unofficially, the v.2 head produces about 12,000 lux making it very suitable as a fight light. But the real value of the Bodyguard v.2 is using the head for some interesting Lego builds - more on that in the next installment.


Large Malkoff LED Flashlights (https://malkoffdevices.com/collections/large-malkoff-led-flashlights)

Though none of the large Malkoff turnkey lights are ideal for EDC, they are nonetheless very sturdy and capable lights suitable for belt carry. The Hound Dog lights are throw oriented with most of the lumens focused in the central hotspot. The reflector-based XM-L (https://malkoffdevices.com/collections/large-malkoff-led-flashlights/products/turnkey-hound-dog-md4) and 18650 (https://malkoffdevices.com/collections/large-malkoff-led-flashlights/products/malkoff-cool-turnkey-hound-dog-18650) models have smooth beams with plenty of spill, while the Wildcat v.6 (https://malkoffdevices.com/collections/large-malkoff-led-flashlights/products/malkoff-wildcat?variant=29865398851) uses a frosted TIR lens to create a wide, even wall of light (high lumens, low lux).

The standout in the group is the barn-burning Hound Dog Super (https://malkoffdevices.com/collections/large-malkoff-led-flashlights/products/malkoff-hound-dog-super-flashlight?variant=32257906371), which is rated at 1,700 lumens and 75,000 lux. It carries well on a belt using a Maglight C-cell light carrier, and is perhaps the ultimate fight light: 75,000 lux to the eyes (dark adapted or not) is a stunning experience. The light itself (as in typical Malkoff fashion) is built like a hammer, the large head making it a very effective striking tool. In turnkey configuration the HD Super is offered only on the long MD4 body, which provides about an hour of runtime on a pair of 18650 cells. My HD Super is a Lego build using the MD3 body and a pair of 18500 cells, which still provides full output but with reduced runtime (about 35 minutes). It is well balanced for one hand operation (with or without a pistol);

https://i.ibb.co/jVLgBcy/hdsuper-3.jpg


A Gene Malkoff story - in one phone conversation with Gene, he told me of a LEO from the northeast who had contacted him about a broken lens in his HD XM-L as a result of it being used to break out a windshield. Gene offered to replace the lens free-of-charge so the LEO shipped the light back to him. Upon receiving the light Gene told me it looked like it had been through a war; beat up, the head dented, most of the anodizing scratched off the entire light. Even Gene was amazed that other than the easily-replaced broken lens, the light functioned perfectly. Wanting to keep the beat-up light to add to his collection, Gene offered the LEO a new HD XM-L entire light as a replacement, which was gladly accepted.

Next installment will get to the real meat-and-potatoes of the Malkoff line of products - Lego builds!

[blues]

I will admit to being one of those who prefers to purchase complete lights from the Malkoff line with the exception of the drop-in or heads specifically for use with my old Surefire lights. While I could definitely get by with fewer lights, each one has its niche and each is a joy to own and operate.

The following image will give you a size comparison between several lights in the Malkoff line.

45138

L-R: Hound Dog, Wildcat, Hound Dog 18650, Surefire 6z with Malkoff lamp, Surefire E2e with Malkoff Scout head, MDC 2AA, MDC 16650, MDC AA


45139

Bodyguard v.2 w/ Spyderco Police 4

45140

Bodyguard v.1 w/ Surefire E2e

[NH Shooter]

blues - nice collection!

[Doc_Glock]

All of my Zebralights (4 pieces) are dead, from barely being used. None of them received any abuse. I'm never buying Zebralights or any other Chicom garbage again, and would not recommend them to anyone else either.

I have a headlight and hand held and they have held up over daily use for four years. The hand held did have to go back when the SWITCH;) went bad after three years, however but they handled it and it came back good as new.

[Totem Polar]

I will admit to being one of those who prefers to purchase complete lights from the Malkoff line with the exception of the drop-in or heads specifically for use with my old Surefire lights. While I could definitely get by with fewer lights, each one has its niche and each is a joy to own and operate.

The following image will give you a size comparison between several lights in the Malkoff line.

45138

L-R: Hound Dog, Wildcat, Hound Dog 18650, Surefire 6z with Malkoff lamp, Surefire E2e with Malkoff Scout head, MDC 2AA, MDC 16650, MDC AA




#flexingonthelumenpoors (https://pistol-forum.com/usertag.php?do=list&action=hash&hash=flexingonthelumenpoors)

[blues]

#flexingonthelumenpoors (https://pistol-forum.com/usertag.php?do=list&action=hash&hash=flexingonthelumenpoors)

If there's one thing I've learned over the years, you have to remain flexible.

[Exiledviking]

So, if I wanted more flexibility out of my Bodyguard I could buy the MDC 16650 (2CR123 Sized) Body Only and use 2 CR123 batteries, right?
I like that capability when I travel as sometimes I only have access to CR123 batteries.

Thank you for the excellent writeup. Looks like I'll be asking Santa Claus for some Malkoff stuff for Christmas.

[blues]

So, if I wanted more flexibility out of my Bodyguard I could buy the MDC 16650 (2CR123 Sized) Body Only and use 2 CR123 batteries, right?
I like that capability when I travel as sometimes I only have access to CR123 batteries.

Thank you for the excellent writeup. Looks like I'll be asking Santa Claus for some Malkoff stuff for Christmas.

The MDC 16650 is an awesome light in and of itself. But yes, you could use the 16650 body with either of the Bodyguard heads. (I have used mine with the Surefire E2e which accepts the MDC heads / threads.)

I don't even bother with the CR123's but for very rarely. I find that I get good service from the 16650's and keep a spare or two around in case needed.

Lots of possible iterations with the Malkoff line. All you need to do is be mindful of the voltage any given head is rated for.

Get on the Malkoff mailing list to be notified of sales.

[NH Shooter]

So, if I wanted more flexibility out of my Bodyguard I could buy the MDC 16650 (2CR123 Sized) Body Only and use 2 CR123 batteries, right?


Correct! The v.1 version will see a jump to 900 lumens with a pair of CR123A cells. You could also use a 16650 2500mAh Li-ion cell to get some wicked-good runtime with the v.1 version.

My favorite 16650 Bodyguard setup uses a SF E-series body with a Malkoff E-series tailcap (https://malkoffdevices.com/collections/parts-and-miscellaneous-items/products/malkoff-e-series-tailcap);

https://i.ibb.co/chT2z03/edc-7.jpg


Keep an eye on ebay where E-series parts can sometime be found (I found this original SF Lumamax body there). Alternatively, Lumens Factory makes a decent clone (https://www.ebay.com/itm/E-Series-2-Cell-Body-HA3-Black-Surefire-E2-E2e-E2D-L4-Compatible-Long-Clip/323013200877).

[NH Shooter]

Just thought I'd post this here;

https://i.ibb.co/6tRGCv7/malkoffs-1.jpg

[NH Shooter]

MD3 (https://malkoffdevices.com/collections/parts-and-miscellaneous-items/products/md3-body-and-switch) - M91T (https://malkoffdevices.com/collections/large-malkoff-led-flashlights/products/m91t-md3) on a my 1187P. Very solid setup, ran it through a shotgun class;

https://i.ibb.co/DwgKyLp/1187P-1.jpg

[Totem Polar]

It occurs to me that it is bordering on a dick move to not post this link:

https://tacticalsportsgear.com/collections/flashlights/products/surefire-6p-bk-flashlight

(free shipping too!)

Along with this one:

https://malkoffdevices.com/collections/surefire-drop-ins-for-6p-g2-c2-etc-6-9-volts


(I like the warm tint, for the vintage 6P feel)

[NH Shooter]

It occurs to me that it is bordering on a dick move to not post this link:

https://tacticalsportsgear.com/collections/flashlights/products/surefire-6p-bk-flashlight

(free shipping too!)

Along with this one:

https://malkoffdevices.com/collections/surefire-drop-ins-for-6p-g2-c2-etc-6-9-volts


(I like the warm tint, for the vintage 6P feel)

Oh yeah! I need to grab a few 6Ps myself.

Pssst...this drop-in (https://malkoffdevices.com/collections/surefire-drop-ins-for-9p-c3-z3-etc-9-12-volts/products/m91b-dropin-to-fit-surefire-9p) will provides about 600 lumens on a single 16650 with a nice, long decline down to 3 volts before it shuts off. Gene updated the circuitry but never updated the specs on the website.

[Totem Polar]

Oh yeah! I need to grab a few 6Ps myself.

Pssst...this drop-in (https://malkoffdevices.com/collections/surefire-drop-ins-for-9p-c3-z3-etc-9-12-volts/products/m91b-dropin-to-fit-surefire-9p) will provides about 600 lumens on a single 16650 with a nice, long decline down to 3 volts before it shuts off. Gene updated the circuitry but never updated the specs on the website.

That is good info.

If I weren't needing to seriously watch my budget right now, I would buy 3-4 of those 6Ps.

[NH Shooter]

Though it's a Bodyguard head in this photo, an E2 Hyper Throw/Scout M600 head (https://malkoffdevices.com/collections/surefire-drop-ins-for-e1-e2-and-scout-lights/products/e2-super-throw-scout-m600-2cr123-high-output-head) and E-series tailcap (https://malkoffdevices.com/collections/parts-and-miscellaneous-items/products/malkoff-e-series-tailcap) on Arisaka body and mount would be an awesome rifle WML setup;

https://i.ibb.co/GP2K408/rifle-2.jpg

[NH Shooter]

MD3 (https://malkoffdevices.com/collections/parts-and-miscellaneous-items/products/md3-body-and-switch) - M91B (https://malkoffdevices.com/collections/large-malkoff-led-flashlights/products/m91-md3) light riding in my new horizontal light carrier (http://www.kytexgear.com/products-page/surefire-carriers/horizontal-surefire-carrier/). I posted my initial impressions on this light carrier (and additional photos) here (https://pistol-forum.com/showthread.php?39431-Illumination-Tool-Carry&p=958462#post958462).

https://i.ibb.co/sV7vWCw/lightcarrier-3.jpg

[HALO51]

MD3 (https://malkoffdevices.com/collections/parts-and-miscellaneous-items/products/md3-body-and-switch) - M91B (https://malkoffdevices.com/collections/large-malkoff-led-flashlights/products/m91-md3) light riding in my new horizontal light carrier (http://www.kytexgear.com/products-page/surefire-carriers/horizontal-surefire-carrier/). I posted my initial impressions on this light carrier (and additional photos) here (https://pistol-forum.com/showthread.php?39431-Illumination-Tool-Carry&p=958462#post958462).

https://i.ibb.co/sV7vWCw/lightcarrier-3.jpg

Nice set-up......Hope the Mods make this thread a sticky since lights are an integral part of daily tasks. I contacted @ NH Shooter to seek info on Malkoff Devices since I had many questions about the product(s) since navigating the Malkoff website was a challenge for me at least. I told him what my light use was to be used for (Entry on search warrants, crime scene gathering) and he responded quickly with his expertise, we exchanged emails and had phone conversation for over an hour. The man knows his illumination information. Highly recommend NH Shooter & his knowledge. NH Shooter provided me the links needed to order from the Malkoff website. Nice to be able to talk with someone who's passionate about illumination.

I ordered the M91-T head, MD3 body. It arrived yesterday, and is outstanding to say the least, that exudes quality. The white light completely overwhelms my Surefire Tactical Fury single stage, and offers a brighter, whiter tint, better throw.

Thanks NH Shooter for your time, effort, knowledge sharing to help me with this purchase. Again, Mods please make this a sticky to help other P-F members. This sticky would cover all tasks lighting, across many manufacturers, comparisons and answer many questions we are looking for.

[NH Shooter]

HALO51, my pleasure - I hope the light serves you well!

[flyrodr]

NH Shooter,

Ordered the Bodyguard. Appreciate the suggestion. Will let you know how it works out.

[einherjarvalk]

Is it at all possible to determine the model of a Malkoff head from visual inspection? I've got an Arisaka 600 I bought used and have zero clue what head it currently has on.

[NH Shooter]

Is it at all possible to determine the model of a Malkoff head from visual inspection? I've got an Arisaka 600 I bought used and have zero clue what head it currently has on.

I would start with the voltage range listed on the head, narrow it down a little. From there look if it has a reflector or TIR lens. I'm not sure if there's much else to do other than compare its beam to know output lights.

[javemtr]

Pssst...this drop-in (https://malkoffdevices.com/collections/surefire-drop-ins-for-9p-c3-z3-etc-9-12-volts/products/m91b-dropin-to-fit-surefire-9p) will provides about 600 lumens on a single 16650 with a nice, long decline down to 3 volts before it shuts off. Gene updated the circuitry but never updated the specs on the website.
You're saying that the M91B can be run with voltages well below 4.0 V? Those specs are way different than what is currently listed on the Malkoff website. What is the minimum voltage at which the dropin is still in regulation? Website says out of regulation below 5.5, turns off below 4.5. Your info would mean I can also run it with 2xCR123?

[Clusterfrack]

NH Shooter, if you have the time, would you go over the various options and runtimes for the Bodyguard V1 and V2? I am currently running a V2 on a MDC shroudless 1 cell body with an IMR16340 cell. (Also: the v2 head works incredibly well on a mini-scout weapon light with the same battery.) Thanks again for all your help!

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190219/39f55a9c5bd3624fc795b4b4aa5a355b.jpg

[NH Shooter]

The Bodyguard heads are power-hungry buggers, to be expected for the output. You can get a lot of light out of a very small package, but at the expense of runtime.

I ran a test of the v.1 head that entailed turning the light on, then turning it off as soon as it stepped down using a 16340 700mAh cell. I kept track of the number of cycles and if I recall correctly, it came out to about 20 minutes of full power runtime before the light would no longer go into high mode.

Looking at the mAh draw difference between the v.1 and v.2 heads, my estimate for a v.2 on a 700mAh cell would be about 10 minutes, which is still 75 eight-second, full power flash 'n dashes.

[Clusterfrack]

Thanks. From my experience, the v2 lasts a surprisingly long time on its “low” setting. I didn’t expect it to be a good walking around at night light, but it is.

[NH Shooter]

You're saying that the M91B can be run with voltages well below 4.0 V? Those specs are way different than what is currently listed on the Malkoff website. What is the minimum voltage at which the dropin is still in regulation? Website says out of regulation below 5.5, turns off below 4.5. Your info would mean I can also run it with 2xCR123?

The M91Bravo still drops out of regulation at 5.5 volts, but since the latest driver revision doesn't quit until the cell drops to 3V. On a freshly charged 18650 it will start at around 650 lumens, then slowly decline to dimness. Here is a runtime graph (https://imgur.com/1cBShW6) by INFERNL from the CP forums.

Two CR123A batteries are a no-go: too much amperage draw (over 2000mAh), the battery can only handle 1500mAh. You can do it at your own risk, but the batteries may decide to have a bonfire in your flashlight. Three CR123As are OK as the higher voltage results in less current draw.

Many are hoping for a "M91B 18650" version to run full power on a single Li-ion cell.

[NH Shooter]

Thanks. From my experience, the v2 lasts a surprisingly long time on its “low” setting. I didn’t expect it to be a good walking around at night light, but it is.

Yes, and 200+ lumens is still more than enough for that use!

[BillSWPA]

Battery life is the primary reason I like the Bodyguard version 1 rather than the version 2 if I am using it with a shorter 1xCR123 size tube. The difference between 800 and 1150 lumens is much less likely to be critical than the difference between getting light and not getting light. I do check the voltage of my Li-Ion cells in both my version 1 and version 2 frequently, and replace them with fully charged cells if they are less than full to any significant degree, so the likelihood of not getting light is small. However, I have believed for a long time that runtime has been given less consideration than it deserves in light design by many flashlight makers.

[Clusterfrack]

Battery life is the primary reason I like the Bodyguard version 1 rather than the version 2 if I am using it with a shorter 1xCR123 size tube. The difference between 800 and 1150 lumens is much less likely to be critical than the difference between getting light and not getting light. I do check the voltage of my Li-Ion cells in both my version 1 and version 2 frequently, and replace them with fully charged cells if they are less than full to any significant degree, so the likelihood of not getting light is small. However, I have believed for a long time that runtime has been given less consideration than it deserves in light design by many flashlight makers.

I agree. But, since I tend to use longer illumination periods on 200, not a lot of short flashes on 1150, I get really good run time on my v2 BG. I've never had the battery go out on me.

[NH Shooter]

A little tip for running 16340s in the BG 1-cell lights...

Get one of these (https://countycomm.com/collections/view-all-storage-products/products/delrin-aaa-battery-locker-waterproof) in CR123 size and put it on your keychain. Then pick up two Efest IMR 16340 700mAh (https://www.illumn.com/batteries-chargers-and-powerpax-carriers/16340-efest-imr16340-v2-700mah-high-discharge-button-top.html) cells, one for the light and one to keep in the locker. These cells are identical in size to a standard CR123 battery so it fits in the locker. This way you always have spare fuel handy, stored in waterproof container.

When it's time for a recharge, rotate the charged cell out of the locker into the light, recharge the cell that came out of the light and place it in the locker.

[NH Shooter]

If you are looking for a pocket-friendly fight light (something a little more compact than the Bodyguard v.2 turnkey light (https://malkoffdevices.com/collections/malkoff-mid-sized-led-flashlights/products/malkoff-mdc-bodyguard-v2-18650-flashlight)), these Legos using the Bodyguard v.2 head should fit the bill.

Key Features


1000 lumen/12,000 lux, two-mode operation. Light will always and without fail activate on high, steps down to 200 lumens after eight seconds. Blip switch to reset cycle.
Momentary-only button operation
Twist tailcap tight to body for constant-on operation, back off a turn to lock-out light
Can be run on a single 16650 Li-ion cell or a pair of CR123A primaries
Head diameter = 1-inch, OAL = 4-7/8" (with twisty tailcap)


Lego List

Malkoff Bodyguard v.2 head (https://malkoffdevices.com/collections/parts-and-miscellaneous-items/products/mdc-bodyguard-v2-head) - 1,000 lumens/approx. 12,000 candela on high (eight seconds) then it drops to low (250 lumens)

Lumens Factory E-Series 2-cell clone body (https://www.lumensfactory.com/en/product_detail.php?pid=398) - can also be found on their ebay store

Lumens Factor E-series twisty tailcap (https://www.lumensfactory.com/en/product_detail.php?pid=371) - can also be found on their ebay store

16650 2500mAh rechargeable cell (https://www.orbtronic.com/16650-li-ion-battery-rechargeable-protected) and a suitable charger (like this one (https://www.orbtronic.com/xtar-battery-charger-usb-26650-18650-16650-14500-18350-18500-16340-batteries)).

This is my version of this light using a SF Lumamax body found on ebay with a Lumens Factory 2-way long clip (https://www.lumensfactory.com/en/product_detail.php?pid=412) and a Malkoff E-series clicky tailcap (https://malkoffdevices.com/collections/parts-and-miscellaneous-items/products/malkoff-tricap-tailcap-switch-for-md2-md3-or-md4). AOL as shown is 5-1/8" but would be about a quarter inch shorter with twisty tailcap. This is one of my favorite lights, rides clipped in a front pocket unnoticed;


https://i.ibb.co/chT2z03/edc-7.jpg


1-CR123A Option #1

If you would like a more compact version of the above, this 1-cell Lego will accomplish that with the following caveats;


Less runtime vs. two cell version
Can be run only on a high-current 16340 cell like this one (https://www.orbtronic.com/cr123a-16340-rechargeable-lithium-ion-700mah-orbtronic-battery)
For some, smaller size not as easy to grasp and control


Lego List

Malkoff Bodyguard v.2 head (https://malkoffdevices.com/collections/parts-and-miscellaneous-items/products/mdc-bodyguard-v2-head) - 1,000 lumens/approx. 12,000 candela on high (eight seconds) then it drops to low (250 lumens)

Lumens Factory E-Series 1-cell clone body (https://www.lumensfactory.com/en/product_detail.php?pid=397) - can also be found on their ebay store

Lumens Factor E-series twisty tailcap (https://www.lumensfactory.com/en/product_detail.php?pid=371) - can also be found on their ebay store


1-CR123A Option #2

For an even more compact version (3-3/4" OAL) that rides comfortably in the bottom of a pocket, we'll substitute the Lumens Factory body and tailcap with a Malkoff 1-CR123 shroudless body (https://malkoffdevices.com/collections/parts-and-miscellaneous-items/products/mdc-shroudless-123-body) that integrates the body and tailcap into one piece. In addition to the caveats listed for Option 1, the Malkoff body is only available with *clicky switch.

*The clicky switch in the Malkoff body is easily replaceable and can be modified for momentary-only operation. With this mod constant-on mode is lost, but for a fight light may not be needed. For those so inclined, I will supply how-to instructions for this mod in a future installment.

Lego List

Malkoff Bodyguard v.2 head (https://malkoffdevices.com/collections/parts-and-miscellaneous-items/products/mdc-bodyguard-v2-head) - 1,000 lumens/approx. 12,000 candela on high (eight seconds) then it drops to low (250 lumens)

Malkoff 1-CR123 shroudless body (https://malkoffdevices.com/collections/parts-and-miscellaneous-items/products/mdc-shroudless-123-body)


https://i.ibb.co/kDWMWg9/BAB0-A30-C-46-CC-46-BE-9-D69-4192-F080-E31-E.jpg


Stay tuned for more fight light Lego builds!

[NH Shooter]

As we discussed in the Malkoff Turnkey post (https://pistol-forum.com/showthread.php?39496-The-All-things-Malkoff-Wiki&p=958047&viewfull=1#post958047), the MD2-M61HOT is an excellent fight light straight out of the box: a single mode of blinding white light (740 lumens/20,000 lux) in a built-like-a-brick-outhouse 6P-size package. The only gripe some may have is that the tailcap (both the standard straight and Tricap versions) use a McClickly switch, so they are not truly momentary-only operation. Luckily, a simple Lego mod can take care of this.

It turns out that Surefire P-series tailcaps will screw right on to a Malkoff MDx body with no problem. They fit perfectly and because they are about a quarter-inch shorter than the Malkoff tailcap, they shorten the OAL of the light by the same amount. The caveat of using a SF tailcap on a Malkoff body is they also reduce battery compartment length by about a quarter-inch, which can make cell selection a bit problematic, but not impossible.

The secret to using a SF Z41 twisty tailcap on the MD2-M61HOT is to use an IMR 18650 flat top cell, which is shorter than a protected cell. The light will give clear indication that the cell needs to be recharged as the output will drop to near zero before the cell becomes over-discharged.

To build this pocket barn burner the following will be needed;


MD2-M61HOT complete light (https://malkoffdevices.com/collections/malkoff-mid-sized-led-flashlights/products/m61hot-md2?variant=21235086723)
SF Z41 twisty tailcap - commonly available on ebay as 6P take-off
IMR 18650 flat top cell (https://www.orbtronic.com/3500mah-18650-imr-battery-high-drain-rechargeable-orbtronic-li-ion). Note - this light can NOT be run with a pair of standard CR123A batteries.

Assembled with a Raven Concealment pocket clip (https://rcsgear.com/surefire-p-and-g-series-pocket-clip/) and measuring just 4.75 inches OAL (not including the rubber button), here's what it looks like;

https://i.ibb.co/k1TcMTH/flm61hot-1.jpg


https://i.ibb.co/hy9HzrR/flm61hot-2.jpg


This configuration really delivers as a pocketable fight light!

Next up, a MD3-M91T fight light Lego.

[NH Shooter]

Let me just say this right now - this light rocks!

The MD3-M91T is in most ways identical to the MD2-M61HOT discussed above: the heads are the same, the M61HOT regulated to run in the 3.4 to 6 volt range, the M91T runs in the 5.5 to 12 volt range. The specs for both lumens and lux are to all intents and purposes the same.

While the M61HOT is optimized for a single 18650 Li-ion cell, the M91T can be run with both CR123A primaries (three in a MD3 body, four in a MD4 body) or a pair of 18500 Li-ion cells. This power-flexible head can also run on a single 18650 Li-ion cell in a MD2 body at slightly reduced output.

Along with being able to run on CR123A primaries (not recommended with the M61HOT), the M91T normally rides on a 9P-size MD3 body. Many (including myself) find the MD3 length preferable for getting and maintaining a tight grip on. Additionally, with a bit of flashlight sticking out from both sides of the hand, it can serve as a viable impact tool.

Here is the list of parts needed to put an all-Malkoff MD3-M91T Lego fight light together;


M91T head (https://malkoffdevices.com/collections/large-malkoff-led-flashlights/products/m91t-md3) (with or without high/low bezel switch)
MD3 body (https://malkoffdevices.com/collections/parts-and-miscellaneous-items/products/md3-body-and-switch) with your choice of tailcap
Body extender kit (https://malkoffdevices.com/collections/parts-and-miscellaneous-items/products/malkoff-devices-md-body-extender-kit) (one ring needed for the pair of longer protected Li-ion cells, kit not needed to run three primaries)
Two 18500 Li-ion protected cells (https://www.illumn.com/batteries-chargers-and-powerpax-carriers/batteries/18500-keeppower-2000mah-panasonic-ncr18500-protected-button-top.html)

In this configuration with the two 18500 protected cells, the M91T will run full power (no reduction in output) for approximately 80 minutes before the cell protection circuit cuts in to prevent over-discharge. The light will not shut off instantly, but will go from full output to zip over the course of a few minutes. Running three primaries will provide roughly 30 minutes of full output runtime, but then with a slow, gradual decrease in output that will extend for hours.

Set up this way with the Malkoff straight tailcap (McClicky switch), the light will measure 6-5/8" long and look like this (M91B head shown);

https://i.ibb.co/8BPHwvC/M91B-3.jpg


No wanty a McClicky? Once again, the Surefire Z41 twisty tailcap to the rescue. Pick up a twisty off ebay and purchase a pair of these IMR 18500 flat top cells (https://www.illumn.com/batteries-chargers-and-powerpax-carriers/batteries/18500-keeppower-imr18500-1100mah-high-discharge-flat-top.html) to fit in the reduced-length battery compartment. Remove any rings from the body extender kit (if used). Three CR123A primaries will still fit just fine!

Here is this bad boy with the SF Z41 twisty installed, measuring only 6-1/8" long;

https://i.ibb.co/Vjkj7d5/flm91t-1.jpg


Caveats to this set up;


Runtime will be reduced to about 45 minutes
The light will give no indication the cells are approaching an over-discharge state. You will need to be cognizant of your light use and get in the habit of charging the cells regularly, especially after extended use.

This is a seriously kick-ass set up. It checks all the fight light check boxes and then some. HALO51 has been running the all-Malkoff version on the job and thus far has indicated he is very pleased.

Final installment in the fight light series will be the totally over-the-top MD3-HD Super, the pinnacle of fight lights!

[MK11]

If you are looking for a pocket-friendly fight light (something a little more compact than the Bodyguard v.2 turnkey light (https://malkoffdevices.com/collections/malkoff-mid-sized-led-flashlights/products/malkoff-mdc-bodyguard-v2-18650-flashlight)), these Legos using the Bodyguard v.2 head should fit the bill.

Key Features


1000 lumen/12,000 lux, two-mode operation. Light will always and without fail activate on high, steps down to 200 lumens after eight seconds. Blip switch to reset cycle.
Momentary-only button operation
Twist tailcap tight to body for constant-on operation, back off a turn to lock-out light
Can be run on a single 16650 Li-ion cell or a pair of CR123A primaries
Head diameter = 1-inch, OAL = 4-7/8" (with twisty tailcap)


Lego List

Malkoff Bodyguard v.2 head (https://malkoffdevices.com/collections/parts-and-miscellaneous-items/products/mdc-bodyguard-v2-head) - 1,000 lumens/approx. 12,000 candela on high (eight seconds) then it drops to low (250 lumens)

Lumens Factory E-Series 2-cell clone body (https://www.lumensfactory.com/en/product_detail.php?pid=398) - can also be found on their ebay store

Lumens Factor E-series twisty tailcap (https://www.lumensfactory.com/en/product_detail.php?pid=371) - can also be found on their ebay store

16650 2500mAh rechargeable cell (https://www.orbtronic.com/16650-li-ion-battery-rechargeable-protected) and a suitable charger (like this one (https://www.orbtronic.com/xtar-battery-charger-usb-26650-18650-16650-14500-18350-18500-16340-batteries)).

This is my version of this light using a SF Lumamax body found on ebay with a Lumens Factory 2-way long clip (https://www.lumensfactory.com/en/product_detail.php?pid=412) and a Malkoff E-series clicky tailcap (https://malkoffdevices.com/collections/parts-and-miscellaneous-items/products/malkoff-tricap-tailcap-switch-for-md2-md3-or-md4). AOL as shown is 5-1/8" but would be about a quarter inch shorter with twisty tailcap. This is one of my favorite lights, rides clipped in a front pocket unnoticed;


https://i.ibb.co/chT2z03/edc-7.jpg


1-CR123A Option #1

If you would like a more compact version of the above, this 1-cell Lego will accomplish that with the following caveats;


Less runtime vs. two cell version
Can be run only on a high-current 16340 cell like this one (https://www.orbtronic.com/cr123a-16340-rechargeable-lithium-ion-700mah-orbtronic-battery)
For some, smaller size not as easy to grasp and control


Lego List

Malkoff Bodyguard v.2 head (https://malkoffdevices.com/collections/parts-and-miscellaneous-items/products/mdc-bodyguard-v2-head) - 1,000 lumens/approx. 12,000 candela on high (eight seconds) then it drops to low (250 lumens)

Lumens Factory E-Series 1-cell clone body (https://www.lumensfactory.com/en/product_detail.php?pid=397) - can also be found on their ebay store

Lumens Factor E-series twisty tailcap (https://www.lumensfactory.com/en/product_detail.php?pid=371) - can also be found on their ebay store


1-CR123A Option #2

For an even more compact version (3-3/4" OAL) that rides comfortably in the bottom of a pocket, we'll substitute the Lumens Factory body and tailcap with a Malkoff 1-CR123 shroudless body (https://malkoffdevices.com/collections/parts-and-miscellaneous-items/products/mdc-shroudless-123-body) that integrates the body and tailcap into one piece. In addition to the caveats listed for Option 1, the Malkoff body is only available with *clicky switch.

*The clicky switch in the Malkoff body is easily replaceable and can be modified for momentary-only operation. With this mod constant-on mode is lost, but for a fight light may not be needed. For those so inclined, I will supply how-to instructions for this mod in a future installment.

Lego List

Malkoff Bodyguard v.2 head (https://malkoffdevices.com/collections/parts-and-miscellaneous-items/products/mdc-bodyguard-v2-head) - 1,000 lumens/approx. 12,000 candela on high (eight seconds) then it drops to low (250 lumens)

Malkoff 1-CR123 shroudless body (https://malkoffdevices.com/collections/parts-and-miscellaneous-items/products/mdc-shroudless-123-body)


https://i.ibb.co/kDWMWg9/BAB0-A30-C-46-CC-46-BE-9-D69-4192-F080-E31-E.jpg


Stay tuned for more fight light Lego builds!

I've been banging my head trying to figure out how to upgrade my old E2E lights and this is exactly what I needed. Unfortunately it looks like Malkoff is sold out on what I really need but thanks for posting this.

[NH Shooter]

Fill in the notification field to get notice when they're back in-stock.

They build these heads right at their facility so things out-of-stock don't stay that way for long.

[BillSWPA]

For anyone considering using unprotected Li-Ion cells, I strongly encourage spending time reading about Li-Ion safety on Candlepower Forum. Bad things can and do happen when Li-Ion cells are used improperly.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[blues]

For anyone considering using unprotected Li-Ion cells, I strongly encourage spending time reading about Li-Ion safety on Candlepower Forum. Bad things can and do happen when Li-Ion cells are used improperly.





Good point, Bill. Plus, they can be maintained with a minimum of effort so don't be "that guy" that just throws 'em in a drawer and remembers a few years down the road.

[NH Shooter]

For anyone considering using unprotected Li-Ion cells, I strongly encourage spending time reading about Li-Ion safety on Candlepower Forum. Bad things can and do happen when Li-Ion cells are used improperly.

Absolutely! It's a deep and technical subject; different chemistries (some considered "safer" than others), the advantages and disadvantages of protection circuits on batteries, charging precautions, etc.

For those who don't want to bother, lights that function on primary cells are the safe bet. That said, safe use of rechargeable cells (regardless of chemistry, protected or not) is mostly an exercise in some basic learning/understanding and to a large degree, common sense (keep cells properly charged, don't throw them in water, don't cause a short, etc.). Anyone who has worked with lead-acid batteries (auto mechanics, for example) will have the fundamentals for safely working with batteries capable of high current.

[Clusterfrack]

For anyone considering using unprotected Li-Ion cells, I strongly encourage spending time reading about Li-Ion safety on Candlepower Forum. Bad things can and do happen when Li-Ion cells are used improperly.


I'm using unprotected EFest IMR16340's in my Bodyguard. I have high quality chargers. What else should I know? (I couldn't easily find this on CPF).

[blues]

I'm using unprotected EFest IMR16340's in my Bodyguard. I have high quality chargers. What else should I know? (I couldn't easily find this on CPF).

You're good, CF. I check mine periodically with a multi-tester if they haven't been used, or put on the charger if they have been used. They've never come close to being discharged too low. Personally, I wouldn't go below 3.8 volts as a minimum threshold. NH can probably provide further data as far as minimums.

I have two of those same cells that I rotate in the BG.

[NH Shooter]

You're good, CF.

Agreed, and as blues states, don't let them discharge too far (below 3 volts). Like blues I also recharge mine when they're between 3.8 and 4 volts.

Beyond that is the common sense stuff, like not throwing an uncontained/unpackaged cell in your pocket with loose change and keys (unless you're at that Burning Man thing).

[Clusterfrack]

Beyond that is the common sense stuff, like not throwing an uncontained/unpackaged cell in your pocket with loose change and keys (unless you're at that Burning Man thing).

I’d rather avoid a crotch fire.

[BillSWPA]

I'm using unprotected EFest IMR16340's in my Bodyguard. I have high quality chargers. What else should I know? (I couldn't easily find this on CPF).

It appears that others beat me to most items. The big ones are:

Don't let the cell get overcharged (4.2 v. max.)

Don't let the cell get over-discharged. I have seen different numbers for the minimum charge, with 2.8 volts appearing to be a safe minimum, but there is really no reason to let a Li-Ion cell get much below 3.8 volts in a light for serious purposes. Li-Ion does not develop "memory."

Don't let the cell get overheated. I am not sure of the effect of having a light turn on accidentally in a pocket or other location where it could heat up quickly. In a pants pocket, it would likely be noticed. In a coat pocket, maybe not.

Don't store or transport the cell around other objects that could complete a circuit around the cell.

Don't recharge the cell with the charger unattended for any length of time (some have suggested checking every 15 minutes).

[Cookie Monster]

NH Shooter - Hey can you explain the tint's - neutral and cool? Is there any others?

Thanks

[blues]

NH Shooter - Hey can you explain the tint's - neutral and cool? Is there any others?

Thanks

NH can do a better job than I can but neutral is more like the warm light you are used to from incandescent bulbs. Browns, greens and earth tones are enriched and have a warm hue. Cool tint, depending on the level, approaches the blue end of the spectrum and gives a whiter, more antiseptic feel like an operating room or laboratory vs. a more "natural" tint. It's great for detail work, getting "all the lumens" on target etc.

There are advantages to both depending on the task. Neutral tends to be more pleasing but when I really want to light it up, I like the cooler end of the spectrum.

Think of neutral as softer and more pleasing to the eye...foliage looks great with it.

Think of cool as harsher, more intense light that may wash out some natural color.

[Mike C]

What is everyone using to test their cells?

[blues]

What is everyone using to test their cells?

I just use a Craftsman multi-tester I've had for years...or rely on the reading I get from my Nitecore D2 or D4 chargers. They usually give slightly different values but are quite close.

[NH Shooter]

NH Shooter - Hey can you explain the tint's - neutral and cool? Is there any others?

Thanks

Color temp is measured in degrees Kelvin. A few used by Malkoff;

3000K - warm white

4000K - neutral

5700 - 6200K cool white

LED temperature preference is a very individual thing. Bear in mind the vast majority of LED lights do not have uniform temperature across the beam, in some cases not even close (warm in the center, cool in the spill). Even lights rated the same can look quite different.

A cool white used in daylight will look very neutral, but may look slightly cool (blueish) indoors. Neutral looks good indoors but may appear slightly yellow in daylight, especially at night with snow on the ground.

The cool white lights are generally brighter, both in measured lumens and appearance to the eye, so unless I have a specific reason otherwise those are the models I default to.

Warm and neutral temps are awesome in misty/rainy weather.

Personally I'm good with the 4000K neutral, though they can seem yellow at times, and am fine with 6200K though it can look a little blue indoors. The 3000K warm models are too yellow for my taste.

As a data point, I have a Streamlight Polytac that rides in my wife's car and it is way too cool for my tastes (I'd estimate at least 7000K). Most Streamlight LEDs are quite cool, far more so than the 6200K Malkoffs.

I hope this helps.

[BillSWPA]

What is everyone using to test their cells?

For Li-ion, a digital multimeter set for DC voltage will provide the most useful information.

For almost anything else, a ZTS battery tester will provide the best information. With the increasing prevalence of optics and lasers that use coin cells, the tester that includes coin cell options is well worth having. If coin cells are not a priority, they make a smaller tester that will test many alkaline, NiMH, lithium primary, and Li-Ion. The smaller tester geared to 9v batteries is a bit less useful unless you use Li-Ion 9v. I have had poor results with NiMH 9v, do not trust alkaline anything not to leak, and it does not have a 9v lithium primary option.



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[BillSWPA]

Regarding color temperature, do not confuse color temperature with the color rendition abilities of the light. (I do not see that mistake being made here.). Color rendition is a function of the number of different color wavelengths that are included in the “white” light. Most LED emitters use a mixture of red, green, and blue LED’s to make the desired color temperature of white. Incandescent is generally better for color rendition, and sunlight is the gold standard.



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[Doc_Glock]

Due to this thread and the rabid Malkoff following I bought the MDC HA 1AA light to see if I could get away from the Zebralight as a utility light and get something American.

Initial impressions aren’t great in this role. It seems Malkoff is in their wheelhouse building tactical lights and ordering a utility light is sort of like ordering fish at a steak house.

The good:
-Amazing people to deal with and very fast shipping.
-Nice form factor and seems extremely well built.
-Nice bean pattern.

The bad:
-Too big for a single cell light.
-Much weaker output on high than the Zebra and inferior pattern as well.
-recessed switch is hard to hit. Nice for tail standing and avoiding ND though. I think it is clunky.
-The UI on the switch is driving me nuts. I hardly ever get the output I want if I am in any sort of hurry. Click too fast and you get low, low, low. Leave it on 150ms-1500ms and you get the next level up next time you switch. Very easy when clicking through levels to lock it into wrong level>1500ms, then you start over. I suppose I can learn it eventually.

I get that this is a light one not made to be used in a hurry.

-tail switch so does not seem replaceable by end user which is sort of a bummer. You have to have some sort of internal tool to remove it I imagine. It certainly doesn’t screw off as I supposed.

I also ordered the Headlight strap.

Good:
-Very sturdy.
-Velcro allows you to grab light off strap for hand use.

Bad:
-Really industrial.
-Terrible for running as light bounces all over. At least on top. Haven’t tried on sides.

I am torn over just returning the thing.

Sorry to rain on the parade guys.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191128/0075ebf5b47f84bf07fd5d404396d436.jpg

[BillSWPA]

The user interface is one reason why I only recently gravitated towards Malkoff's complete lights, and why I emphasize the Bodyguard lights when discussing their products. The single mode high only also makes sense, as well as the high/low ring that allows selecting mode by rotating the bezel. Beyond that, there is simply no way to set up a mode selection method that makes any sense using a single tail switch to change modes.

[BillSWPA]

One more point about light output. The current ANSI standard allows the output to be specified shortly after turning on the light, and the runtime to be specified to the point that the light output is only 10% of that number. So, a poorly regulated light that gradually gets dimmer during use will have better numbers on paper than a properly regulated light. A properly regulated light will have a relatively horizontal runtime curve, which, while not as high at the beginning, will remain relatively constant throughout most of the light’s battery life. Malkoff lights are designed to have that horizontal runtime curve.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[NH Shooter]

Initial impressions aren’t great in this role. It seems Malkoff is in their wheelhouse building tactical lights and ordering a utility light is sort of like ordering fish at a steak house.

Not an unfair observation. Malkoff lights are built as "lifetime investments" featuring robust construction and simple UI (no programming, no multiple switches, etc.). I think the attraction for a Malkoff general purpose task light is that it is the last one you'll ever have to buy (short of losing it). Additionally, this particular model is probably the most "utilitarian" in their product line and the fact that AA batteries are so readily available.

Personally I'm not a fan of multi-mode switching via the tailcap, but for a general purpose task light I think it has its place. The way Malkoff sets up their mode switching is different but once you're used to it, it makes sense: it will always start on low if the light was left on for more than a second previously. If you want to "stage" it to come on high, quick-blip through low and medium then leave it off. The next time the light is activated, it will start on high. Once you learn the behavior of the 3-mode programming its use becomes more intuitive.


-tail switch so does not seem replaceable by end user which is sort of a bummer. You have to have some sort of internal tool to remove it I imagine. It certainly doesn’t screw off as I supposed.

It is 100% end-user replaceable. The McClicky is installed from the rear of the light. To access it, grab the rubber switch boot by pinching it and just pull it out. The boot is held in place with an O-ring that is visible around the boot. Once the boot is removed, it will become obvious how to unscrew the switch out of the body. To replace the boot, set it back in place over the switch, lube up the O-ring (spit will work) and press it back into place.

FWIW, a Malkoff product generally isn't one that's going to WOW you immediately, especially a light intended for general use such as the 1-AA model. But over time its easy to develop an appreciation for the robust construction, reliability and knowing as long as the battery is good, its going to work when you need it to.

[SiriusBlunder]

NH Shooter, thanks for all the information.

I'm considering putting together the "Fight Light Lego II - M61HOT" (https://pistol-forum.com/showthread.php?39496-The-All-things-Malkoff-Wiki&p=959768&viewfull=1#post959768).

The one thing holding me back is that I have a bunch of button top, protected 18650s and would prefer not to buy/use the mentioned flat top.

Will using the body extender kit mentioned in post #51 (https://pistol-forum.com/showthread.php?39496-The-All-things-Malkoff-Wiki&p=959811&viewfull=1#post959811) allow the use of button top, protected 18650s in this build?

TIA

[NH Shooter]

Your protected button-top cells will fit just fine in the MD2-M61HOT as it comes from Malkoff with either their straight or Tricap tailcaps (McClicky switches). It's the shorter Surefire Z41 tailcap that requires the shorter cell. Body extender kits do not work with SF tailcaps.

FYI, if you want momentary-only and are willing to forego constant-on operation, the "click" can be removed from the McClicky to render it momentary only. I use this mod on my weapon-mounted Malkoffs. I'll post a tutorial on that mod soon.

[Doc_Glock]

Thank you for the very helpful hints. I am going to give it time in the pocket and see if I can adapt to the UI. Very good info about the switch as well.

[Tackleberry40sw]

I've been a Malkoff convert for a little while now. Currently, I have my Hound Dog with a Thyrm Switchback 2.0 in my leg pocket of my carpenters jeans. It is a simple to operate, rugged, and a capable light. I do not consider multifunction less expensive lights anymore. I'm currently looking to add the Hound Dog Super with MD4 body as my duty belt light. It is expensive, but it is an investment that I can depend on and bet my life on. There are many light companies pushing their wares right now, especially one company pushing a huge sale through affiliates that is bombarding my email and YouTube feed. I'll still save my money and buy Malkoff lights.

[NH Shooter]

I'm currently looking to add the Hound Dog Super with MD4 body as my duty belt light. It is expensive, but it is an investment that I can depend on and bet my life on.

Carries nicely in a 6P vertical holster;


https://i.ibb.co/Th8M0TH/hds-1.jpg

[Tackleberry40sw]

Carries nicely in a 6P vertical holster;


https://i.ibb.co/Th8M0TH/hds-1.jpg


Good to know. It will replace the Streamlight Stinger that I am issued.

[NH Shooter]

A Maglight C-cell carrier works too. HD Super shown with MD3 body, Tricap and grip ring (from body extender kit);

https://i.ibb.co/jVLgBcy/hdsuper-3.jpg

[Tackleberry40sw]

45315

This my Hound Dog with Tri-Cap and Thyrm Switchback. I believe my belt holder for my Stinger will accommodate the Hound Dog Super.

[NH Shooter]

If the carrier grabs the light by the lower (smaller diameter) part of the head, it should work fine.

[NH Shooter]

Sick. Over-the-top. Seriously, WTF???

The Malkoff Hound Dog Super (https://malkoffdevices.com/collections/large-malkoff-led-flashlights/products/malkoff-hound-dog-super-flashlight?variant=32257906371) is perhaps the ultimate fight light and/or belt-carried duty light. At 1,700 lumens/75,000 lux it's not only stupid-bright, but built tough enough to withstand the abuse professional LE equipment is often subjected to. It is weapon posing as a flashlight.

Specs from the Malkoff Website


Head utilizes a 7 degree TIR lens, protected by a shatter-resistant Ultra Clear (AR coated) Acrylic Lens
Lux is 75,000 at one meter (cool) and 70,000 (neutral)
Cree XP-L LED
High/Low Switch installed and ready to go, controlled by head rotation
The low output is approximately 80 lumens on two rechargeable Li-ion batteries and 120 lumens on four primary CR123 batteries
The On/Off switch is a forward clicky with momentary function.
It can use four primary lithium CR123 batteries or two to three Li-ion rechargeable batteries
The runtime on high is approximately 1 hour (on high) with two 3400 mah 18650's. Four CR123 primaries will provide about 30 minutes full output runtime.
With the MD4 Body it is 8-1/2 inches in length with a 1 inch body diameter and 2.35 inch head diameter



The Hound Dog Super can be purchased as a turnkey light (https://malkoffdevices.com/collections/large-malkoff-led-flashlights/products/malkoff-hound-dog-super-flashlight?variant=32257626883) using the MD4 body, or the head can be purchased separately for Lego builds. Here is the turnkey light with straight tailcap with Solarforce lanyard ring (https://www.solarforceflashlight-sales.com/products/solarforce-ss-lanyard-ring-for-l2-l2m-l2p-surefire-6p-9p) and DIY finger lanyard, shown in a Kytex Gear vertical 6P carrier (http://www.kytexgear.com/products-page/surefire-carriers/vertical-surefire-6pg2-carrier/);

https://i.ibb.co/Th8M0TH/hds-1.jpg

For a belt-carried duty light, this is an excellent configuration; an hour of runtime on high, all-night runtime on its very usable 80-120 lumen low setting, and large and robust enough to be used as a serious impact instrument.


Option1 - MD3 Body with Tricap

The HD Super head can be installed on a shorter MD3 body with no sacrifice in output, though full-output runtime will be reduced to just over 30 minutes before the cells' protection circuit turns off the light.

Lego List;

1 - Hound Dog Super head (https://malkoffdevices.com/collections/large-malkoff-led-flashlights/products/malkoff-hound-dog-super-flashlight?variant=32257626883) - select "head only" under Body and "none" under Tailcap

1- MD3 body (https://malkoffdevices.com/collections/parts-and-miscellaneous-items/products/md3-body-and-switch) with your choice of tailcaps (Tricap shown below)

1 - Grip ring from the Body Extender Kit (https://malkoffdevices.com/collections/parts-and-miscellaneous-items/products/malkoff-devices-md-body-extender-kit) (required to fit the long protected cells in the light)

2 - KP 18500 2000mAh protected cells (https://www.illumn.com/batteries-chargers-and-powerpax-carriers/batteries/18500-keeppower-2000mah-panasonic-ncr18500-protected-button-top.html)

Here's what you end up with;

https://i.ibb.co/7ktsVTN/hdsuper-2.jpg


Shown with Maglite C-cell belt carrier;
https://i.ibb.co/jVLgBcy/hdsuper-3.jpg


https://i.ibb.co/FmkjLyB/hdsuper-1.jpg

This is my favorite HD Super configuration!


Option 2 - MD3 Body with Surefire Z41 Tailcap

If you're a fan of momentary-only via the button and twist for constant-on, we can Lego as follows;

1 - Hound Dog Super head (https://malkoffdevices.com/collections/large-malkoff-led-flashlights/products/malkoff-hound-dog-super-flashlight?variant=32257626883) - select "head only" under Body and "none" under Tailcap

1- MD3 body (https://malkoffdevices.com/collections/parts-and-miscellaneous-items/products/md3-body-and-switch) with your choice of tailcaps

1 - Surefire Z41 twisty tailcap

2 - IMR 18500 1100mAh flat top cells (https://www.illumn.com/batteries-chargers-and-powerpax-carriers/batteries/18500-keeppower-imr18500-1100mah-high-discharge-flat-top.html) needed due to the reduced battery compartment length from using the SF tailcap, but still deliver the current to maintain its retina-burning capability

Full output runtime is only about 20 minutes with the caveat that the light will give no warning of over-discharging the cells. But you end up with a comparatively compact, easy-to-handle and very wicked fight light;

https://i.ibb.co/J3pNFwP/flhds-1.jpg


https://i.ibb.co/h8Kjbdc/flhds-2.jpg


In my ownership of the HD Super it's definitely not my most-used Malkoff, but the capabilities it brings to the table has earned it a spot in my safe. Considering its intense light output and built-like-a-hammer construction, it has no peer.

[Tackleberry40sw]

I'll be getting the Super Hound Dog with the MD4 body when I do buy it.

[Cool Breeze]

Is there other options for those Surefire 6Ps besides the drop in unit? Can you add a completely different head for even higher output?

[NH Shooter]

Is there other options for those Surefire 6Ps besides the drop in unit? Can you add a completely different head for even higher output?

There is some expensive custom stuff out there (like Oveready (https://www.oveready.com/)).

FWIW, I'm tempted to do this Lego, seems like it could make for a decent budget fight light;

6P classic complete light (https://tacticalsportsgear.com/collections/flashlights/products/surefire-6p-bk-flashlight)

EDC-Plus drop-in (https://www.edcplus.com/p60-dropins-c-3_18/edc-plus-x60lt-p60-xpl-hi-v2-1-mode-cool-white-p-240.html?zenid=32fd43226ea30591271495e00e545a01)

Run it on the 16650 cell of your choice.

[Gater]

Apologies for a bit of drift, but I wanted to thank Sidheshooter for the mention of the 6P sale at https://tacticalsportsgear.com/collections/flashlights/products/surefire-6p-bk-flashlight .

I've got a couple of old skool Z2s (long ago upgraded with Surefire's drop in P60L LED, itself rapidly outclassed and discontinued), but didn't have a 6P body, so I picked one up for grins (breaking a self-imposed moratorium on new knives and flashlights in 2019...almost made it! $34 and free shipping...well, I can resist everything except temptation.). Mine--ordered Sunday--was delivered today, mint condition in sealed Surefire packaging. Batteries dated 2028. Great service by Tacticalsportsgear. Just took it outside for some vintage yellow incan light, and compared to one of my newer LED Surefires. It still does a legit job at 25yds, but it is amazing how far things have come.

Thanks also to NH Shooter for all the work on this thread. I'll eventually pick out a Malkoff drop in for this thing.

[Totem Polar]

I'll eventually pick out a Malkoff drop in for this thing.

You’re welcome, brother. And try the Malkoff "warm" low output. Still has an honest 200 lumens, with great throw and dispersion, and even warmer than the original, color-wise. Plus, 5 hours on the 2x123, up from 1,25hr run time.

[J0hnny]

45523

Informative thread! As usual this place costs me money 😂

Bodyguard heads on 16650 & cr123 bodies

[flyrodr]

A little tip for running 16340s in the BG 1-cell lights...

Get one of these (https://countycomm.com/collections/view-all-storage-products/products/delrin-aaa-battery-locker-waterproof) in CR123 size and put it on your keychain. Then pick up two Efest IMR 16340 700mAh (https://www.illumn.com/batteries-chargers-and-powerpax-carriers/16340-efest-imr16340-v2-700mah-high-discharge-button-top.html) cells, one for the light and one to keep in the locker. These cells are identical in size to a standard CR123 battery so it fits in the locker. This way you always have spare fuel handy, stored in waterproof container.

When it's time for a recharge, rotate the charged cell out of the locker into the light, recharge the cell that came out of the light and place it in the locker.

Just got a couple of the Country Comm lockers for the CR123. Put the spare 16340 battery (the specific model listed above) in one, and it was a smooth, but snug fit. Too snug, as I then found out it wouldn't come out, regardless of how I shook it, tapped on it, whatever. Eventually, I just drilled a tiny hole in the bottom of the locker and pushed the battery out with a small punch.

I then took a dial caliper and measured the diameter of a CR123 at 0.650", and the 16340 at +/-0.657". The +/- is because at least the two 16340s I measured would not perfectly round, varying from about 0.652" to 0.657". The CR123s fit loosely enough to come out easily.

So, I took a closer look at the 16340s, had an "I hope this is an 'ah-hah' moment", and peeled off the two labels on the Efest battery, and . . . it fits into - - - and out of - - - the locker. Something to watch out for . . .

Unrelated to the battery, but on the light itself: I am something of a fly fishing knot freak, but have only a passing acquaintance with many other knots. I attached a short length of paracord to the light with a clove hitch, and found out it wasn't the best knot for the job, as it worked itself loose. Googled the issue, and found I should have been using the similar looking, but much more secure constrictor knot. Just tossing that out in case there are others with similar knotty issues.

[NH Shooter]

My pair of Efest IMR 16340 cells snugly but come out when I whip-it. My protected cells are a no-go, but regular CR123A batteries drop right in.

BTW, the v.2 version of the Bodyguard will run on low output with a CR123A battery.

[J0hnny]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190219/39f55a9c5bd3624fc795b4b4aa5a355b.jpg

I think I need to try this. Is that paracord finger lanyard ziptied to the body? The Malkoff grip ring is perfect for a Rogers grip but a complete PITA to put in or remove from my pocket

[Clusterfrack]

I think I need to try this. Is that paracord finger lanyard ziptied to the body? The Malkoff grip ring is perfect for a Rogers grip but a complete PITA to put in or remove from my pocket

Yep. That’s how I do it. I don’t like the ring either.

[HALO51]

Let me just say this right now - this light rocks!

The MD3-M91T is in most ways identical to the MD2-M61HOT discussed above: the heads are the same, the M61HOT regulated to run in the 3.4 to 6 volt range, the M91T runs in the 5.5 to 12 volt range. The specs for both lumens and lux are to all intents and purposes the same.

While the M61HOT is optimized for a single 18650 Li-ion cell, the M91T can be run with both CR123A primaries (three in a MD3 body, four in a MD4 body) or a pair of 18500 Li-ion cells. This power-flexible head can also run on a single 18650 Li-ion cell in a MD2 body at slightly reduced output.

Along with being able to run on CR123A primaries (not recommended with the M61HOT), the M91T normally rides on a 9P-size MD3 body. Many (including myself) find the MD3 length preferable for getting and maintaining a tight grip on. Additionally, with a bit of flashlight sticking out from both sides of the hand, it can serve as a viable impact tool.

Here is the list of parts needed to put an all-Malkoff MD3-M91T Lego fight light together;


M91T head (https://malkoffdevices.com/collections/large-malkoff-led-flashlights/products/m91t-md3) (with or without high/low bezel switch)

Been using the MD3-M91T with 2 1850 MD3 body (https://malkoffdevices.com/collections/parts-and-miscellaneous-items/products/md3-body-and-switch) with your choice of tailcap
Body extender kit (https://malkoffdevices.com/collections/parts-and-miscellaneous-items/products/malkoff-devices-md-body-extender-kit) (one ring needed for the pair of longer protected Li-ion cells, kit not needed to run three primaries)
Two 18500 Li-ion protected cells (https://www.illumn.com/batteries-chargers-and-powerpax-carriers/batteries/18500-keeppower-2000mah-panasonic-ncr18500-protected-button-top.html)

In this configuration with the two 18500 protected cells, the M91T will run full power (no reduction in output) for approximately 80 minutes before the cell protection circuit cuts in to prevent over-discharge. The light will not shut off instantly, but will go from full output to zip over the course of a few minutes. Running three primaries will provide roughly 30 minutes of full output runtime, but then with a slow, gradual decrease in output that will extend for hours.

Set up this way with the Malkoff straight tailcap (McClicky switch), the light will measure 6-5/8" long and look like this (M91B head shown);

https://i.ibb.co/8BPHwvC/M91B-3.jpg


No wanty a McClicky? Once again, the Surefire Z41 twisty tailcap to the rescue. Pick up a twisty off ebay and purchase a pair of these IMR 18500 flat top cells (https://www.illumn.com/batteries-chargers-and-powerpax-carriers/batteries/18500-keeppower-imr18500-1100mah-high-discharge-flat-top.html) to fit in the reduced-length battery compartment. Remove any rings from the body extender kit (if used). Three CR123A primaries will still fit just fine!

Here is this bad boy with the SF Z41 twisty installed, measuring only 6-1/8" long;

https://i.ibb.co/Vjkj7d5/flm91t-1.jpg


Caveats to this set up;


Runtime will be reduced to about 45 minutes
The light will give no indication the cells are approaching an over-discharge state. You will need to be cognizant of your light use and get in the habit of charging the cells regularly, especially after extended use.

This is a seriously kick-ass set up. It checks all the fight light check boxes and then some. HALO51 has been running the all-Malkoff version on the job and thus far has indicated he is very pleased.

Final installment in the fight light series will be the totally over-the-top MD3-HD Super, the pinnacle of fight lights!

After consulting with @ NH Shooter via email, phone calls, explaining what I needed in a light, @ NH Shooter provided info on a couple of options. I decided upon the MD3-M91T. I've used it daily for 3 weeks (High Risk Entry on Search Warrants/EV) work as well as EDC in left rear pocket and couldn't be more pleased with a light that provides overwhelming illumination upon entry to secure a location.

On one occasion, I illuminated one target @ approximately 10' kept light on target until target was secured, suspect later complained of intense headache & loss of temporary vision. Medic later cleared him, but target commented that the light was "unnecessary" The intense "white light" the MD3-M91T is also very durable as a "compliance tool" as well.

I've used many popular brands throughout the years, and none have accomplished what this set-up provides. I highly recommend the Malkoff Device to anyone that demands "performance" in a light. My many thanks to @ NH Shooter for his patience, passion, in-depth intricate knowledge of illumination devices, batteries, communication, willingness to go the extra mile to accommodate my needs.

I call @ NH Shooter the "Master of Illumination" when I speak to him and I was quite impressed when @ NH Shooter stated he wanted to initiate a program to raise money to outfit his local Police Dept with Malkoff Devices after observing an officer in his hometown using a "not ready for duty light"

I'll be honest, the willingness to start a program like this is very thoughtful to say the least. I'll sure contribute to this cause, because I stake my life on this light daily, have seen first hand the benefits of real world use & strongly endorse the Malkoff.

Many on this forum have contributed as well "BillSWPA, Blues, Clusterfrack" to name a few with their knowledge/input.

[NH Shooter]

I call @ NH Shooter the "Master of Illumination" when I speak to him...

That's going to stick. :-)

Glad to have been of help HALO51, I have great respect for those who go in harms way everyday to keep us, our towns and cities safe. Thanks for sharing some of your work experience with me, it gave me better insight into the risks and challenges LE face.

Yes, our little town here in NH feels like Mayberry, and I suspect they have about the same size budget as well. I met our chief of police a few years ago at a car show (he has a very clean '65 Corvette) and I pan on getting with him to discuss if such a donation is possible. If it's within the rules, Ill get a quote from Gene and start a GoFundMe campaign to raise the needed funds. It seems the least I can do.

[NH Shooter]

Another installment, this one to give an idea of what the beam profiles look like for some of the lights discussed.

Caveat: the camera does not tell the entire story as it cannot capture the same range of contrast as human vision. So in that sense, these beam shots should in themselves not be considered as the absolute truth in rendering a light's performance, especially for judging spill. Because of this, I will add my own observations in each of the photo captions.

Photos taken with a Canon 50D DSLR, 17-40/4L set at 17, tripod and manual exposure settings retained for all photos. I set exposure using the M91T. Target is 21 feet away.

Photo 1 - MD3/M91T

https://i.ibb.co/0JY28QP/beamshotm91t.jpg
This light is rated at 750 lumens (900 momentary) and 19,000 lux, featuring a TIR lens. The photo depicts the broad, brilliant hot spot well but does not capture the spill accurately. In actual use, the outer edge of the spill is extremely wide, I'd estimate 160 degrees. In a dark environment it is quite useful. This is my go-to fight light: blinding white-light hot spot that is broad enough to not require perfect alignment with the subject with a very useful spill. Note: the MD2-M61HOT is almost identical in performance.



Photo 2 - Bodyguard v.2

https://i.ibb.co/XkBvgvf/beamshotmbgv2.jpg
This light is rated at 1,000 lumens with an "unofficial" lux rating of 12,000. It features a TIR lens that provides a broad beam with a generous hot spot. The photo captures the qualities of this light quite well: a broader, more diffuse beam than the M91T with not as much center-beam brightness (candela). Mine is set up on a 1-CR123 unshrouded body and rides comfortably in the bottom of a front pocket. This head can also be used on a variety of E-series 2-CR123 bodies as well using a 16650 cell for extended runtime. This is an impressive light for pocket carry.



Photo 3 - MD3-M91B

https://i.ibb.co/FbCwwRr/beamshotm91b.jpg
This light is rated at 1,000 lumens and 8,500 lux. It uses a reflector instead of a TIR lens. As you can see in the photo, this light creates a "wall of light" that is broad and quite even. Compared to the Bodyguard, the lumens are more evenly distributed to the very edge of the spill, though the hot spot is not as bright. This is my go-to walk-the-dogs light due to its useful beam profile. Even on low (using the high/low bezel switch) the light is extraordinarily useful for task use. It is my most used light.

Note: this drop-in can also be used on a single Li-ion cell, on which it will produce about 650 lumens. The actual shut-off voltage is 3V.



Photo 4 - MD2-M61T

https://i.ibb.co/RPYgHW1/beamshotm61t.jpg
This is Malkoff's original "throw" model (thus the T designation) that uses a TIR lens. Compared to the M61HOT and M91T, it's weak sauce but still produces 12,000 lux with useable spill. It also has longer runtime than the standard M61 drop-in.



Photo 5 - MD2-M61

https://i.ibb.co/vDLXKF0/beamshotm61.jpg
This is actually an older version of the M361 drop-in that features three output levels controlled by the tail switch. This particular version is rated at 400 lumens, which was used for this photo. In actual use, this module looks brighter to me but out of all of the lights shown in this post, it does have the lowest lumen rating. Malkoff does not specify a lux rating for it but it's generally believed to be around 7,000. I'm no fan of blipping the tail switch to control output level, but for a general use task light it works very well. This is my wife's walk-the-dogs light.



Photo 6 - Hound Dog Super

https://i.ibb.co/WK958Mc/beamshothds.jpg
It's pretty lame taking beam shots of this light at only 21 feet against a white garage door, but I figured WTF not. The Hound Dog Super is rated at 1,700 lumens and 75,000 lux. As you can see in the photo, it's mighty effing bright. There is very useable spill, but the camera does a poor job of rendering it. Even zombies wither taking a hit in the eyeballs with this thing.



Photo 7 - Lux/candela Comparison

https://i.ibb.co/GVN5bGN/beamshotcomposite2.jpg
The purpose of this composite is to judge the lux (or candela) capability of each light. Look at the brightness of the cardboard target, not the gloss-white garage door. Since the target was placed in the middle of the beam for each shot, its reasonably representative of the "brightness" of each light.

[blues]

Thanks again, NH. That's truly useful data. Once again the BG shines, imho. (Pun partially, but not wholly intended.)

[Clusterfrack]

Prepping for a Multigun night match. I swapped in the BG2 head from my EDC onto my Mini-Scout, with an IMR16340 battery.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191221/da1ade4797d4eeeb43678a4c5bea78d4.jpg

[newyork]

So that light set up all told is about $200 it seems. In line with my Bodyguard V2.

Any reason to not choose the Wildcat V6 (md3 or 4) instead?

[NH Shooter]

So that light set up all told is about $200 it seems. In line with my Bodyguard V2.

Any reason to not choose the Wildcat V6 (md3 or 4) instead?

The Wildcat is a high-lumen, low-lux floodlight - the cool version is rated at 1,600 lumens and 7,000 lux.

At 750 lumens/19,000 lux, the M91T has much higher luminous intensity, meaning it's much brighter to anyone on the business end of the light. Of course, the higher the lux/candela, the further the beam reaches as well.

[newyork]

Makes perfect sense. Thank you!

[ChuckSS]

Just got my Bodyguard V1 in the mail. Thanks to everyone for all the information in this thread, it's a killer pocket light.

[Doc_Glock]

I have two coupons for Malkoff. I won’t use. Expires today 2/7. Maybe not useful already. Sorry I forgot to post.


REV32-T5-DX

REV7K-9R-R9

[NH Shooter]

Some details here (https://pistol-forum.com/showthread.php?40678-Malkoff-E2HT-Light-Saber), the same light using the Malkoff 18650 body;

https://malkoffdevices.com/collections/parts-and-miscellaneous-items/products/malkoff-18650-to-e-series-body?variant=21907969736784

https://malkoffdevices.com/collections/surefire-drop-ins-for-e1-e2-and-scout-lights/products/e2-super-throw-scout-m600-2cr123-high-output-head

[Brian T]

So I have a NOS Surefire M3T Millennium CombatLight. What can I do to make it a retina crippler? Same for the rechargeable Streamlight that has LEDs now, don't know the actual model.

I also have a like new Surefire Aviator, with red LEDs and a single white LED. I like to use it when I am out on the railroad and there is a chance I will be out at night. Red comes in handy. Is there a way I can upgrade the white LED, but leave the red LEDs as they are?

[jellydonut]

The M3T is a beautiful, classic light that can be easily converted to LED by exchanging the bulb with a voltage-compatible LED "tower" module. It is called a "tower" because the module is shaped like a tower in order to place the LED in the correct position within the turbo head's reflector.

Unfortunately, to the best of my knowledge, Malkoff Devices does not currently sell any tower-type modules. I'm not sure if they did in the past, either.

I'm pretty sure CustomLites used to make these, but I cannot find them on his website any more, so unfortunately my only recommendation for a tower module at this point would have to be LumensFactory (https://www.lumensfactory.com/en/product.php?cid=25), which is made overseas. They are at least a Hong Kong company rather than mainland China company, and their service is fantastic. They also have incandescent bulb upgrades (https://www.lumensfactory.com/en/product.php?cid=26) which might not provide the regulation and reliability of an LED module but certainly makes a more beautiful light.

The LED version of the Aviator does not have any easy avenues for upgrade. The light would have to be taken apart in a manner not intended by Surefire, and have a new LED soldered in. This is quite costly, but can be done.

[J0hnny]

49322

Breathing some new life into these older first gen SF Backups with new Malkoff Neutral MDC HA LMH Li-ion Rechargeable Heads. I really like the spill and neutral tint, not to mention the high setting is at least twice as bright as the heads they’re replacing.

[GOTURBACK]

I built myself a MD3-M91T light based on NH Shooters but I opted for the tri-cap tailcap, I like to carry on my belt are there any good holster options available for this configuration?

[rob_s]

This seems as good a place as any to post this...

I picked up two Malkoff bulbs for my legacy 3P and 6P. I got the following models
For the 6P
M61N (neutral tint) to fit Surefire and Malkoff (https://malkoffdevices.com/products/m61n-to-fit-surefire-and-malkoff) (neutral tint beam, 4000K, 80 CRI) The output is approximately 400 measured out the front lumens. The full output runtime is approximately 1.5 hours on two CR123 primary batteries with a nice long taper as voltage drops.
I wish I had gotten the M61NL (neutral tint, low output) to fit Surefire and Malkoff (https://malkoffdevices.com/products/m61nl-to-fit-surefire-and-malkoff) (low output neutral 4000K 80 CRI)The output is approximately 200 measured out the front lumens. The current draw is only 300ma at 6 volts. The full output runtime is approximately 5+ hours on two CR123 primary batteries with a nice long taper as voltage drops.

For the 3P
M31W (warm tint beam) to fit VME Head (https://malkoffdevices.com/products/m31w-warm-tint-beam-to-fit-vme-head) (Warm Tint Beam 3000K, 80 CRI) The output is approximately 300 measured out the front lumens at 1.8-3.3v and 170 lumens at 1.2v.

I dropped them in last night and initial impressions are good. Unfortunately I forgot about the flaw (feature?) in early 6P lights whereby if you don’t back the tail cap off far enough it can be activated with side pressure on the tailcap. Thereby leaving the light in in my drawer for over an hour until I came back in the dark and saw the drawer glowing like the briefcase in Pulp Fiction or the trunk in Repo Man.

Here’s the partially drained 6P after about an hour of running. It’s compared to an old Streamlight angle-head (https://www.streamlight.com/en/products/detail/index/polytac-90) that advertises 170 lumens on high. I’m just trying to use that light as a control, not as a measuring device.
53835

Here it is with fresh batteries
53836


Here is the 3P with fresh batteries
53837

[Navin Johnson]

I have a M61NL for my house /garage general light. No question my favorite general use light (yellow G2 host).

Plan on getting a M61NLL. The NL is too much light sometimes and mine is a pre 200 lumen version.

The 5 hour runtime lasts me for the winter...new batteries in every fall.

[JCS]

Not everyone is interested in "building" their light and would prefer to buy a complete light, ready to go. This installment will look at the currently-available Malkoff turnkey lights with an emphasis on the kind of lights we P-F members are interested in.

Malkoff turnkey lights are categorized by size as follows;

Small Malkoff LED Lights (https://malkoffdevices.com/collections/malkoff-small-led-flashlights)

The Malkoff MDC (Malkoff Daily Carry) lights are essentially the size-equivalent of the Surefire E-series lights. These lights are available in a useful array of models, including 1-AA, 2-AA, 1-CR123A and 2-CR123A configurations. The 1-AA and 2-AA lights have a maximum voltage input of 3.2 volts, as well as a few of the 1-CR123A models. For this reason, it's important to avoid using 14500 Li-ion cells in the AA models, and avoid using 16340 Li-ion cells with those models intended to run only on a single CR123A primary battery. The 2-CR123A configurations have a maximum input voltage input of 6 volts, intended to be used with either two CR123A primary batteries or a single 4.2 volt Li-ion. The voltage range is clearly printed on all MDC heads to avoid any confusion as to what cells are suitable.

IMO, there are a couple of standouts in this category. The first is the MDC HA 1AA (https://malkoffdevices.com/collections/malkoff-small-led-flashlights/products/mdc-ha-1aa-flashlight) model. Though it's no barn burner, it is perhaps the most useful task light in the category. Able to run on available-anywhere-on-Earth AA alkaline batteries, or lithium primary AA or rechargeable NIMH AA, it is a light that is built like a tank and can be operated on these common cells. Don't let that low setting of just 0.3 lumens fool you, it is an extremely useful setting for close-up administrative tasks with dark-adapted vision.

The other standout in the group is the Bodyguard v.1 (https://malkoffdevices.com/collections/malkoff-small-led-flashlights/products/mdc-bodyguard). A compact yet powerful light, it is rated to run on either a 16340 cell to produce 700 lumens, or on a single CR123A primary to produce 400 lumens. Though it is technically a single mode light, it automatically steps down to around 200 lumens after eight seconds. A quick blip of the switch resets the timer and brings it back to full output. For "flash 'n dash" operation that is typically used in a defensive scenario, the step-down does not come into play. For constant-on operation to navigate a dark street, 200 lumens is more than enough and greatly extends the runtime of the light. It's really a great light to EDC in the bottom of a pocket;

https://i.ibb.co/K7J7CbW/bgv1-1.jpg

Spoiler Alert - the Bodyguard v.1 head has an acceptable maximum input voltage of 6V. When used with a pair of CR123A cells, its output jumps to over 900 lumens. More on this in the upcoming Lego Build installment.


Mid-sized Malkoff LED Flashlights (https://malkoffdevices.com/collections/malkoff-mid-sized-led-flashlights)

These are the Malkoff MD2 (6P size) lights that universally can be operated with either a pair of CR123A primaries or a single 18650 Li-ion cell. While these MD2 lights are (like all Malkoff products) built like tanks and make for superb task lights, they are somewhat underwhelming performance-wise compared to similarly-sized competitive products. There is, however, one exception to that statement and is a superb choice for a fight light - the MD2-M61HOT (https://malkoffdevices.com/collections/malkoff-mid-sized-led-flashlights/products/m61hot-md2?variant=21235086723) model. Rated at 740 lumens and 20,000 lux, this light is a top-choice for a defensive light. Due to the high current draw, the light is intended to be used only with a single 18650 Li-ion cell.

With the addition of either a SF twisty or clicky tailcap and the use of an IMR 18650 cell (needed to fit in the reduced battery compartment length by using the SF tailcap), you can have a light that is only 4-3/4" AOL yet performs like a larger light. This is IMO a really fantastic light as a turnkey option that can be made even better with just a touch of Lego-ing;

https://i.ibb.co/85PfCmZ/Carry-1.jpg


A honorable mention in both the small and midsize categories is the MDC Bodyguard v.2 (https://malkoffdevices.com/collections/malkoff-mid-sized-led-flashlights/products/malkoff-mdc-bodyguard-v2-18650-flashlight). As a turnkey option, the more powerful v.2 head is placed on a unique E-series size body that can hold a single 18650 cell or a pair of CR123A primaries, which provides for longer runtimes vs. the v.1 turnkey version. The unique body does add considerable length to the light, making it a half-inch longer than the MD2 Lego above. At over 1,000 lumens (and 250 lumens after the 8-second step down to low) the beam provides a nice balance of throw and spill. Unofficially, the v.2 head produces about 12,000 lux making it very suitable as a fight light. But the real value of the Bodyguard v.2 is using the head for some interesting Lego builds - more on that in the next installment.


Large Malkoff LED Flashlights (https://malkoffdevices.com/collections/large-malkoff-led-flashlights)

Though none of the large Malkoff turnkey lights are ideal for EDC, they are nonetheless very sturdy and capable lights suitable for belt carry. The Hound Dog lights are throw oriented with most of the lumens focused in the central hotspot. The reflector-based XM-L (https://malkoffdevices.com/collections/large-malkoff-led-flashlights/products/turnkey-hound-dog-md4) and 18650 (https://malkoffdevices.com/collections/large-malkoff-led-flashlights/products/malkoff-cool-turnkey-hound-dog-18650) models have smooth beams with plenty of spill, while the Wildcat v.6 (https://malkoffdevices.com/collections/large-malkoff-led-flashlights/products/malkoff-wildcat?variant=29865398851) uses a frosted TIR lens to create a wide, even wall of light (high lumens, low lux).

The standout in the group is the barn-burning Hound Dog Super (https://malkoffdevices.com/collections/large-malkoff-led-flashlights/products/malkoff-hound-dog-super-flashlight?variant=32257906371), which is rated at 1,700 lumens and 75,000 lux. It carries well on a belt using a Maglight C-cell light carrier, and is perhaps the ultimate fight light: 75,000 lux to the eyes (dark adapted or not) is a stunning experience. The light itself (as in typical Malkoff fashion) is built like a hammer, the large head making it a very effective striking tool. In turnkey configuration the HD Super is offered only on the long MD4 body, which provides about an hour of runtime on a pair of 18650 cells. My HD Super is a Lego build using the MD3 body and a pair of 18500 cells, which still provides full output but with reduced runtime (about 35 minutes). It is well balanced for one hand operation (with or without a pistol);

https://i.ibb.co/jVLgBcy/hdsuper-3.jpg


A Gene Malkoff story - in one phone conversation with Gene, he told me of a LEO from the northeast who had contacted him about a broken lens in his HD XM-L as a result of it being used to break out a windshield. Gene offered to replace the lens free-of-charge so the LEO shipped the light back to him. Upon receiving the light Gene told me it looked like it had been through a war; beat up, the head dented, most of the anodizing scratched off the entire light. Even Gene was amazed that other than the easily-replaced broken lens, the light functioned perfectly. Wanting to keep the beat-up light to add to his collection, Gene offered the LEO a new HD XM-L entire light as a replacement, which was gladly accepted.

Next installment will get to the real meat-and-potatoes of the Malkoff line of products - Lego builds!
What type of pocket clip is the wire pocket clip in this photo?

[J0hnny]

What type of pocket clip is the wire pocket clip in this photo?

Raven https://rcsgear.com/surefire-p-and-g-series-pocket-clip/

[NH Shooter]

What type of pocket clip is the wire pocket clip in this photo?

Raven Concealment - https://rcsgear.com/surefire-p-and-g-series-pocket-clip/

Edit - didn't see that JOhnny beat me to it.

[rob_s]

Raven https://rcsgear.com/surefire-p-and-g-series-pocket-clip/


Raven Concealment - https://rcsgear.com/surefire-p-and-g-series-pocket-clip/

Edit - didn't see that JOhnny beat me to it.

And those will work on my OG 6P and 3P?

ETA:
Answering my own question, it appears it will work on the 6P but not the 3P, which is ok, but it also appears that you lose the constant on function which I’d prefer to keep.

Anyone know of a clip-on clip option that fits these older lights?

[JCS]

Raven Concealment - https://rcsgear.com/surefire-p-and-g-series-pocket-clip/

Edit - didn't see that JOhnny beat me to it.

I have a non surefire light that I’m curious if it will work with. How long is the clip? It’s for a light that’s a cr123 single cell

[Clusterfrack]

I’m bummed to post this because I really want to like this light.

The M61 Hot MD2 18650 that I keep at the bedside failed to work last night. Fortunately the was only a sick dog that really needed to go out at 2am.

The light flickered and died, even though the battery was charged.

This morning I discovered that the brass LED module had come loose inside the head, by backing out in its threads. This requires a special two-pin tool to tighten. I like the modularity of these lights, but this isn’t a good thing to happen in a life-safety device.

[javemtr]

'Special' tool is a bit of a stretch. A regular pair of snap ring pliers will do the trick. Put a dab of thread locker on the retaining ring and the issue should not occur again.

[jellydonut]

You don't even need snap ring pliers, you can use any regular long-nose plier. Perhaps most relevant, the plier tips on any normal multitool work fine. Just apply pressure inward while turning.

[NH Shooter]

You don't even need snap ring pliers, you can use any regular long-nose plier. Perhaps most relevant, the plier tips on any normal multitool work fine. Just apply pressure inward while turning.

Yes, this is exactly what I use.

Clean the threads (head and ring) with alcohol and use a dab of blue thread locker.

[rob_s]

I apparently got the wrong "mcclicky" somehow. The one I got doesn't fit in my 6P correctly, it's too small.

This is what I got (which is way too small a diameter)
https://darksucks.com/products/mcclicky-switch?_pos=1&_sid=3b3af3bfb&_ss=r

This appears to be what I need
https://www.oveready.com/flashlight/torchlab-mcclicky-self-installation-clicky-kit-for-z41-p-c-z-g-x/

based on this guy's install video

https://youtu.be/odcGqAbBkwU

[CHNEAL]

When you read this entire thread and realize that you must have the M91T but just can’t decide between the MD3 and the MD4…
78485

[blues]

Seems reasonable...

[CHNEAL]

Seems reasonable...
On the surface sure…except now I must figure out what head to put on the one I don’t “need” because, as my wife is so painfully aware, sending the unwanted one back just isn’t an option!

[blues]

On the surface sure…except now I must figure out what head to put on the one I don’t “need” because, as my wife is so painfully aware, sending the unwanted one back just isn’t an option!

I understand completely. A light unfinished is like a void in the universe which needs to be filled. Been there, done that...

I have two others, (large and small Bodyguards), which I didn't have at the time this image was taken...

78489

[NH Shooter]

Nice collection blues!

[CHNEAL]

Had the opportunity to use the md3-m91t last night and I’ll say I was very impressed! I actually bought this with a certain purpose in mind but seeing how well it carried in my back pocket it may very well find its way into my edc or at least night time edc.
I used to be a runner but age and the knees of a guy that spent 30 years on ladders and in attics have made me a walker. I walk 5-10 miles every Saturday and Sunday morning and always before the sun rises. Ive been carrying the same HDS or an MDC-sho for many years and they are great lights but i have been wanting much more throw as the foxes and coyotes have become regular visitors to the trails I haunt and I really enjoy seeing them. With my HDS a see a lot of shadows and shining eyes but I want to see more. A bit better throw with the MDC-sho but not enough punch..I love this light!

I really want to like the MD4 body as the added run time with the 2 18650 would be very welcome and if the MD4 had the same knurling as the 3 i would absolutely love it. However its the “ new” style and I believe it will be too slippery with gloves in the winter. So i guess ill return it and start the hunt for an old style MD4 body unless of course someone would be interested in a trade…

[NH Shooter]

I really want to like the MD4 body as the added run time with the 2 18650 would be very welcome and if the MD4 had the same knurling as the 3 i would absolutely love it. However its the “ new” style and I believe it will be too slippery with gloves in the winter. So i guess ill return it and start the hunt for an old style MD4 body unless of course someone would be interested in a trade…

I find the addition of a grip ring included in this Malkoff kit (https://malkoffdevices.com/collections/parts-and-miscellaneous-items/products/malkoff-devices-md-body-extender-kit) to be beneficial for gripping/retaining the the light. It can been seen installed between the tailcap and body below;

https://i.ibb.co/BszcqsK/MD4-1.jpg


The wrist lanyard is very helpful for retention as well.

[CHNEAL]

I find the addition of a grip ring included in this Malkoff kit (https://malkoffdevices.com/collections/parts-and-miscellaneous-items/products/malkoff-devices-md-body-extender-kit) to be beneficial for gripping/retaining the the light. It can been seen installed between the tailcap and body below;

https://i.ibb.co/BszcqsK/MD4-1.jpg


The wrist lanyard is very helpful for retention as well.

I have the body extender kit and tried the ring. While it does give a nice purchase while pulling the light from my back pocket where it will be carried, the light is still much to slippery in the heavy winter gloves Ill be wearing when its well below zero here for 4 months. Problem occurs during the transition from pulling vertically from pocket to the horizontal to activate the light. The knurling on the MD3 is perfect for its application.The lanyard would be fine if I planned to keep the light in hand for the 2 hours I’m on the trail but just not interested in that.
Looks like Ill return the body/switch and batteries and just stick with the MD3 and 18500s. Quite honestly 80 mins of full power run time will be more then I need in any given day. I prefer to walk in the dark as much as possible and only deploy the light to see what I hear…But thank you for the advice and for getting me interested in the MD3/M91T. This thing is amazing!
78572

[CHNEAL]

NH Shooter

mea culpa…at 0400 this morning as I was about to go for a 10 mile walk I thought to myself that I just shouldn’t be in such a rush to dismiss advice from someone as knowledgeable as you. So I pulled out a couple of well used 18650s, unboxed the about to be returned MD4 body, screwed on the grip ring and M91t head and out the door I went.
For a bit over three hours this morning I handled it as much as possible. I carried it, stuck it in both front and back pockets to deploy it. It was 33 degrees so I took along a few pairs of gloves I tend to wear and just gave this light a good shake down…I was wrong.
While the “ pineapple” knurling feels rather smooth in hand it did work rather well with both pairs of gloves and even with my big “ it’s too damn cold to be out here” mittens!
This body/head combo just became my dedicated walking light. Had 3 wonderful fox sightings and a great view of the backside of a coyote 3 steps behind a rabbit doing Mach 3 across a field.

Thanks for your patient advice.

Clay

Oh, where can I find a good lanyard ring? Might as well go all in!
78615

[awp_101]

Yesterday I finally got everything together for a Modlite PL350/Malkoff E2XTL Lego. Pics to follow but my initial impression is "holy crap!" in a good way. Huge upgrade over the TLR-3 I've been running on my nightstand pistol for several years.

I did a very unscientific test last night and the center beam (throw? I'm still learning here) lit up the doors of a 2 car garage ~130 yards away to the point that if I was running a LPVO I think it would have been useful for PID.

[CHNEAL]

I think i might have a problem…

I have been a recovering gear junkie for years. Was pretty certain I had it under control. Flashlights have always been a gateway drug for me so this this probably won’t end well.

I knew I had already purchased the last M91T head Malkoff had in stock but I have this damn empty MD3 body just staring at me from across the room so I thought i would just see what my options might be…


78621

[blues]

You're just doing your small part to restore balance to the universe. :cool:

[CHNEAL]

You're just doing your small part to restore balance to the universe. :cool:


Lord I hope it helps!

[awp_101]

I think i might have a problem…

Admitting you have a problem is the first step. I have no idea what the second step might be…:confused:

[CHNEAL]

Admitting you have a problem is the first step. I have no idea what the second step might be…:confused:

Ya I have nothin…I’ve never gotten past that step.

[NH Shooter]

NH Shooter

mea culpa…at 0400 this morning as I was about to go for a 10 mile walk I thought to myself that I just shouldn’t be in such a rush to dismiss advice from someone as knowledgeable as you. So I pulled out a couple of well used 18650s, unboxed the about to be returned MD4 body, screwed on the grip ring and M91t head and out the door I went.
For a bit over three hours this morning I handled it as much as possible. I carried it, stuck it in both front and back pockets to deploy it. It was 33 degrees so I took along a few pairs of gloves I tend to wear and just gave this light a good shake down…I was wrong.
While the “ pineapple” knurling feels rather smooth in hand it did work rather well with both pairs of gloves and even with my big “ it’s too damn cold to be out here” mittens!
This body/head combo just became my dedicated walking light. Had 3 wonderful fox sightings and a great view of the backside of a coyote 3 steps behind a rabbit doing Mach 3 across a field.

Thanks for your patient advice.

Clay

Oh, where can I find a good lanyard ring? Might as well go all in!
78615


Clay, nice EDC gear!

For lanyard rings I've had good luck with these - https://www.ebay.com/itm/264153578915

Also, use a light-duty mini split ring to attach the lanyard. It will serve as a break-away point should someone gain control of the light with your fingers / hand still in the lanyard. I find the 10mm size just right for this use;

https://www.amazon.com/BokWin-Stainless-Chains-Organization-Diameter/dp/B08HRW4JF6/ref=sr_1_15

Attach the lanyard like this;

https://i.ibb.co/3skR4n5/edc-20.jpg


Flashlight addiction is something that can only be appreciated once the disease is acquired. ;-)

[CHNEAL]

Clay, nice EDC gear!

For lanyard rings I've had good luck with these - https://www.ebay.com/itm/264153578915

Also, use a light-duty mini split ring to attach the lanyard. It will serve as a break-away point should someone gain control of the light with your fingers / hand still in the lanyard. I find the 10mm size just right for this use;

https://www.amazon.com/BokWin-Stainless-Chains-Organization-Diameter/dp/B08HRW4JF6/ref=sr_1_15

Attach the lanyard like this;

https://i.ibb.co/3skR4n5/edc-20.jpg


Flashlight addiction is something that can only be appreciated once the disease is acquired. ;-)


Excellent! Thanks you for the info and kind words.

Clay

[CHNEAL]

Well my Hound Dog came in today and all I can say is damn! Took it into the warehouse basement which was a parking garage years ago. 400’ long, 200’ wide 15 ‘ ceilings and with the lights out its a tomb. I was amazed at how strong this light is, also what a great spill it has for a thrower. Put it on my MD4 body and wont look back for a trail light.
Took a family pic of my Malkoffs and when I looked at it it seemed incomplete, MD2/M61HOT inbound.
It really is a sickness

78762


Wildcat with the 21700 body…hhmmmm

[CHNEAL]

Just got back from the maiden trail walk with the Hound Dog and I absolutely love this light in this application. It throws father then the longest straight section on any part of the 8 miles I walked this morning and the spill is just excellent for a dedicated thrower. The low setting is better then I could of imagined and out throws my favorite till now HDS-nlt on high.
I have eluded to a gear addiction that had been in remission for a number of years…lets just say this thread and these fine lights have caused a flair up! About 1/2 way thru my walk this morning I decided that all of my lights need to be upgraded so I headed home on a mission which I believe and hope I have completed because I just wiped out any old reserve funds in the gear war chest.
On order now I have:

MD2/M61HOT - replacing my HDS High Noon tube as my out and about at night light-may find its way into actual edc roll.
MD3/M91T H/L-replacing my old Felix pd32 work light
MD3/M91B H/L-replacing the yellow G2 converted to a McClicky that has served so very well for several years as the take the dogs out at night/ house light used by my entire family

In addition to the already acquired

MD3/M91T H/L-replacing my MDC-SHO as bed side light
MD4/Hound Dog replacing my HDS NLT as my trail walking light.

Now of course nothing will ever replace the Peak Eiger in my pocket but these Malkoff are just the best of the best as far as this old ( formerly retired) flashlight guy is concerned.

Thanks for the inspiration and info all.

Stay Safe
Clay

[awp_101]

Yesterday I finally got everything together for a Modlite PL350/Malkoff E2XTL Lego. Pics to follow
Better late than never.

78884

Love the Malkoff part of the equation but not so much the Modlite part. I don't like the lack of a momentary option. Maybe it's not that big of a deal in the real world but it's an option I'd really like to have. I may just bite the bullet and buy a U Boat for the 92 and find a DF Scout or other compatible body I can use this head on and turn it into my rifle light.

[Brian T]

I am about to switch over three old Surefire forends to the Malkoff. I have two questions:

1. Why cant I use the Malkoff drop-ins for the 6P?

2. If I cant do the above, is there anything I can do with the old units? Maybe make them into shorter LED handhelds?

[jellydonut]

I am about to switch over three old Surefire forends to the Malkoff. I have two questions:

1. Why cant I use the Malkoff drop-ins for the 6P?

2. If I cant do the above, is there anything I can do with the old units? Maybe make them into shorter LED handhelds?

What is a 6P forend? In my book the 6P is the classic handheld.

Normally older forends have a rubber grommet in them to protect the bulb unit from recoil. This rubber grommet is the reason why dropins don't drop in. You need this part to make them work in those heads. https://malkoffdevices.com/collections/parts-and-miscellaneous-items/products/fitting-ring-for-surefire-shock-absorbing-head

You also have these head replacements for older Surefire forends as well. https://malkoffdevices.com/collections/surefire-forend-upgrades

However, post a picture and we can tell.

[Brian T]

The old Laser Devices and Surefire light dedicated forends used a shortened 6P sized tube and head with a shock isolated incandescent bulb-reflector assembly. I would prefer to keep this arrangement by dropping a shock ring in with a Malkoff LED versus buying the Malkoff shotgun forend heads (your second link).

[Mirolynmonbro]

Your protected button-top cells will fit just fine in the MD2-M61HOT as it comes from Malkoff with either their straight or Tricap tailcaps (McClicky switches). It's the shorter Surefire Z41 tailcap that requires the shorter cell. Body extender kits do not work with SF tailcaps.

FYI, if you want momentary-only and are willing to forego constant-on operation, the "click" can be removed from the McClicky to render it momentary only. I use this mod on my weapon-mounted Malkoffs. I'll post a tutorial on that mod soon.

Will this mcclicky mod work with the v1 bodyguard? My one problem with carrying it is the light turns on in my pocket. Removing the click might make it better

[NH Shooter]

Will this mcclicky mod work with the v1 bodyguard? My one problem with carrying it is the light turns on in my pocket. Removing the click might make it better

I would try a medium press boot first, very easy to change. PM me and I'll provide details.