J-frame trigger question - post lock removal and plug install

[Chris17404]

Hi all,

I recently removed the internal lock on my S&W 442 and also installed the plug from Original Precision. This was my first time opening up a revolver and working on the internals, but the job was very straightforward and easy. Now it seems my trigger pull is somehow worse. (Maybe it's just my perception, who knows.) Specifically, the initial weight to get the trigger moving from its forward position seems to have increased quite a bit. It's a bit of a jerk to get the trigger moving. (Maybe it's always been there and just never looked too closely for it.) After it gets moving it seems ok. I'm not sure what could have caused that. Any ideas? Thanks for any help you can provide.

I used these two videos when disassembling, removing the lock, installing the plug and reassembling:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RVPYgohVCNM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LzOQ_h8-8oM

Chris

[camsdaddy]

Did you by chance bend the rebound spring? I noticed my model 60 felt similar. At some point I bent the rebound during assembly.

[Chris17404]

Did you by chance bend the rebound spring? I noticed my model 60 felt similar. At some point I bent the rebound during assembly.

I don’t think so. I didn’t touch the rebound spring at all during disassembly. So I think that’s good. It may very well be that I’m being overly critical of the trigger pull since I’m paying extra attention to it post modification. But it would be nice to know how to alleviate that initial wall of heaviness if possible.

[OlongJohnson]

Of all the people on this forum, only one has the ability to take the side plate off your revolver and look for what might be wrong.

[JAH 3rd]

Over the decades the only changes I have made to my revolvers/pistols has been springs. What I have found is that the heavier springs tend to mask (somewhat) the rough spots in the trigger pull. The mind focuses on the heavy trigger pull. When you put a lighter spring in there your focus changes from a heavy pull to the new feel of the pull itself....rough spots and the like. This has been my experience with lighter springs.

Earlier this year I changed out the hammer spring in my HK USP full-size. I installed the hammer spring that is in the USP Elite, a lighter weight spring. I was curious what, if any, difference it made in the trigger pull. The lighter spring actually introduced a hint a creep in the single action trigger press. With the original spring, I didn't notice any creep. The weight of the trigger pull was not lightened much at all. With the match trigger on the USP the hammer spring, trigger spring, sear spring and firing pin block spring are all lighter, which in totality lighten the trigger pull.

[Chris17404]

Hi guys. Well I opened it back up and sure enough I found what appears to be the sear portion of the hammer and a small spring disconnected from the rest of the hammer. Not sure how that happened but it sounds like it was likely from when I dry fired it with the side plate off. So, not sure how to fix this other than sending it in to S&W customer service. I may just do that if it’s not an easy fix. Thoughts?

[camsdaddy]

Hi guys. Well I opened it back up and sure enough I found what appears to be the sear portion of the hammer and a small spring disconnected from the rest of the hammer. Not sure how that happened but it sounds like it was likely from when I dry fired it with the side plate off. So, not sure how to fix this other than sending it in to S&W customer service. I may just do that if it’s not an easy fix. Thoughts?

Do you have a picture of your finding?
I have always been told to never dry fire with the side plate removed. The good news is S&W will more than likely take care of it.

[L-2]

Go to ~ 41:30 of this video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3g_FUqoTjAw

I've not taken that 3-part internal hammer assembly apart before, but it appears fairly easy.

[Chris17404]

Go to ~ 41:30 of this video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3g_FUqoTjAw

I've not taken that 3-part internal hammer assembly apart before, but it appears fairly easy.

Thank you! Yep, that's it. That section of the hammer that jiggles and is held in place by the small spring is what fell off the main hammer section. Not sure if a piece of that broke off or not too. So I'm gonna ship it back to S&W to be checked out and addressed. Thanks again! Now when I get it back I'll hopefully remove the lock and install the plug without doing damage again. ;)

[JAH 3rd]

I think S&W redesigned the lockwork a few years ago. Prior to the redesign, the double action sear was pinned to the hammer, unlike today's design. I guess one of the priorities of the redesign was to cut cost even above the savings the MIM part gave. Hence, what we have today.

[TheNewbie]

Are there quality gunsmiths who will remove a lock?

[Speederlander]

Are there quality gunsmiths who will remove a lock?

Quite a few. TK custom in IL will remove and plug it.

[TheNewbie]

Quite a few. TK custom in IL will remove and plug it.

Thanks. I have a 637 I would like to have the hammer bobbed/ converted to DAO and the lock removed.