Ruger Single Six (and Seven, Nine and Ten, of course) Thread

[OlongJohnson]

These keep coming up in other threads. Realized we don't have a thread just for them. So here it is.

I'll start with some non-enabling for myself, and then we can go on from there.


... The first should be a Single Six in .22LR with a Bisley grip. Just because.


Like this one:

https://vizardsgunsandammo.com/rug-0680-krb22aw-bisley-22-6-5-ss/

And someone please tell me why I shouldn't buy one myself.

According to Iowegan over on Rugerforum.net, all the .22 caliber Single Sixes (new model at least; I'm not clear on old models) have .224 grooves, which means they are oversize for .22LR. However, they are the perfect size for .22WMR. So, if this is true, in spite of what some may say, they don't actually make slightly different barrels on "Convertible" sets that are 0.001" larger in the grooves. You can actually run a WMR cylinder in any NM .22LR Single Six and expect better accuracy than with .22LR. I read it on the internet, so...

However, .22WMR runs ~$0.20-30/rd typically or higher, which is solidly into centerfire prices. And they can be reloaded for even less. So why not just shoot those rounds in a gun made for them? And the .32s are an intermediate solution for the reloader. You can only shoot the $0.04-0.10/rd cheap stuff if you're willing to tolerate inherently reduced accuracy.

There's an article in a magazine that was on the rack at Barnes & Noble a few weeks ago where a guy had his smith rebarrel a couple single sixes from spare 10/22 barrels he had sitting around, and accuracy was excellent. If you're going to go there, you might even start with a chunk of match-grade .22LR blank. That quickly gets expensive, though.

So at this point, I seem to have talked myself out of getting that stainless Bisley. It's not the right choice for someone who will never get "warm fuzzies" knowing a mechanical thing just isn't as good as it could be. And it's not better than a Buck Mark.

But I still think they're cool and would buy one before a Wrangler. And if I stumbled across a silly deal on a particularly nice .32 Fed at a gun show, it might follow me home.

[oregon45]

The bore size discussion with respect to .22 caliber Single Sixes is an interesting one, but I would encourage anyone who wants a Single Six to bracket that discussion and simply shoot their gun with a variety of .22lr ammunition before worrying about bore size.

Here's some further Single Six enabling:

Stainless Bisley Single Six, 22lr non-convertible:

https://i.imgur.com/W3ih4hw.jpg?2

Bisley .32 H&R Magnum, recent production:

https://i.imgur.com/O7A92KJ.jpg?1

Both are well suited to their roles as understudy revolvers to my big bore Bisleys, and the .32 in particular has been a favorite for introducing new shooters to centerfire revolvers.

[Bergeron]

According to Iowegan over on Rugerforum.net, all the .22 caliber Single Sixes (new model at least; I'm not clear on old models) have .224 grooves, which means they are oversize for .22LR. However, they are the perfect size for .22WMR. So, if this is true, in spite of what some may say, they don't actually make slightly different barrels on "Convertible" sets that are 0.001" larger in the grooves. You can actually run a WMR cylinder in any NM .22LR Single Six and expect better accuracy than with .22LR. I read it on the internet, so...


Fascinating. My first handgun was a Convertible Single Six in stainless steel, with a 5.5" barrel and fixed sights. While I have other gun projects to occupy my time, money, and interest, I wonder about getting another Single Six or a Ten. The information about the bore diameter is appreciated. The fitting of custom barrel to frame is exciting, becuase I've also thought about really getting out there for a rimfire and having a "No. 5" style grip frame as part of a Single project. I wonder exactly how mechnically accurate the gun could become.

Gary Reeder offers a worked over Single Eight that looks pretty neat.

Double Deuce (https://www.reedercustomguns.com/revolvers/double_deuce.htm)

[Drifting Fate]

The bore size discussion with respect to .22 caliber Single Sixes is an interesting one, but I would encourage anyone who wants a Single Six to bracket that discussion and simply shoot their gun with a variety of .22lr ammunition before worrying about bore size.

Here's some further Single Six enabling:

Stainless Bisley Single Six, 22lr non-convertible:

https://i.imgur.com/W3ih4hw.jpg?2

Bisley .32 H&R Magnum, recent production:

https://i.imgur.com/O7A92KJ.jpg?1

Both are well suited to their roles as understudy revolvers to my big bore Bisleys, and the .32 in particular has been a favorite for introducing new shooters to centerfire revolvers.

Scoundrel. I've been lusting after a small-framed Ruger Bisley for years. Beautiful pieces!

[oregon45]

They're great guns. Heavy for what they are, but very nicely balanced and quite similar in overall feel to their larger, centerfire, siblings.

[Flamingo]

Here is my .32 H&R Mag single six. It is a fun gun to shoot!

41975

[OlongJohnson]

Fascinating. My first handgun was a Convertible Single Six in stainless steel, with a 5.5" barrel and fixed sights. While I have other gun projects to occupy my time, money, and interest, I wonder about getting another Single Six or a Ten. The information about the bore diameter is appreciated. The fitting of custom barrel to frame is exciting, becuase I've also thought about really getting out there for a rimfire and having a "No. 5" style grip frame as part of a Single project. I wonder exactly how mechnically accurate the gun could become.

Gary Reeder offers a worked over Single Eight that looks pretty neat.

Double Deuce (https://www.reedercustomguns.com/revolvers/double_deuce.htm)

Since it appears someone may rely on it, here are some links directly to posts I read last night.

https://rugerforum.net/ruger-single-action/359039-why-price-difference-2.html#post4162497

https://rugerforum.net/ruger-rimfires/47257-bore-size-single-six-revolvers.html#post553909


And to correct my statement about 0.001 in. in the OP, I just checked the SAAMI specs.


.22LR bore is 0.217 and grooves are 0.222

.22WMR bore is 0.219 and grooves are 0.224

Discussion in the links above is a little imprecise, as they discuss the bore being 0.222 vs. 0.224. Not quite correct nomenclature, but I think most readers understand.

[Hambo]

I bought one of these https://ruger.com/products/newModelSingleSixSingleSeven/specSheets/8165.html to replace .22 magnum.

[Malamute]

Ive had several over the years but never tried various ammo to see about best accuracy. Its standard for most 22s to see what shoots best in a particular gun, and your individual example may not shoot the same ammo the same way the next serial numbered example off the line may.

Some people use Paco Kellys ACU'RZR gizmo for optimizing accuracy. It bumps the bullets up to .223 or .224". Its had some good reviews and comments. Its probably worth a try for finicky guns or just wanting to get best accuracy from whatever ammo is on hand.

The Rimfire Central forum is probably a good place to look or ask questions about the Rugers and seeing what results they are getting with them.

Shooting a single six will help get your SA reloading technique worked out. they arent nearly as slow as most make out, though it appears many people just think theres no point in even trying, judging from some of the cowboy shoots Ive been to. I always just wanted to get back shooting with as little delay as possible when I was a kid and shooting scads rounds of 22s through mine. I worked out a system that has also worked pretty well with centerfire SAs

[Totem Polar]

I worked out a system that has also worked pretty well with centerfire SAs

Any interest in elaborating?

:D

[Joe in PNG]

I do have my eye on a Single Seven .327 mag.
Kind of like a modern .32/20, but able to shoot other kinds of .32 ammo as well.

[Malamute]

Any interest in elaborating?

:D

Sure. Open the gate, hold gun in left hand on its left side, using left hand to turn cylinder, butt of gun held in the solar plexus at an angle, use right trigger finger the sharply hit ejector rod, each chamber in turn. Empty shells go out under the left arm, in 45 cal, they go about 3-4 feet out at about 7-8:00. When semi-practiced up, it takes about 2 or 3 seconds to clear the brass. For 22s, id usually carry them 50 or so at a time in the back right pocket for plinking. Grab some, and load. You get where you can get the correct amount quite often. For centerfire, having 6 in a pocket with the bullets going the correct direction to load when pulled out helps, feeding them into the chambers as you turn the cylinder with the left hand. Loading from a cartridge belt, pull 2 at a time, about all I can manipulate well at a time. Cartridge loops on the front help if expecting to reload. Many old pictures show people wearing belts that way. Its slower than operating a DA revolver without speed loaders or strips, but not as much slower as most say. If I can get shooting more again Ill see if I can time 12 rounds fired.

To reload 2 or whatever less than full, I find it simpler to kick them all out, reload however many time allows, then you can see the rims (on centerfire SAs) to get indexed for firing correctly (clockwise rotation). Trying to kick 2 out and reload them leaves you less than certain where they are. Some may be able to count clicks of the cylinder, i cant always. Seeing the rims helps a lot if not a full reload.

In the past I cursed the new model Rugers not indexing like the old models, many people over turn the cylinder and miss the chamber. It doesnt bother me any more, I tend to get on the ejector rod in 22s a bit early, if it drags on the cylinder face a little then slams into the chamber, thats ok. I feed shells in as the cylinder turns, they drop in and the cylinder cant go past the click. Holding the cylinder in position with the left hand as turning it also helps to keep from overturning past the click and chamber alignment. I hear later guns have the hand changed and can freewheel. Its not a difficult modification on older guns, but I havent felt the need myself.

Checkering the ejector rod button improves usability. The tiny rod end Ruger uses is a pain in the behind. The older Colts had a large round head or a crescent head later. i have aftermarket examples of both and like them both. Both are much easier and faster to use than the tiny Ruger factory button. Colts also had an angled slot in the ejector housing to allow the rod head to come out to allow better access to the ejector rod head. I have one or two aftermarket housings with the angled or cam cut slots. Colt missed the boat by stopping the slot in the housing before it gave best ejector stroke though. I modify centerfire Ruger ejector springs (22 LR rimfires are OK) to give longer ejection stroke, the factory spring stacks up solid before it should. Clip 7 coils from the spring, stretch it, assemble and pull then let it snap back by itself several times and it frees up and works smoothly, put the cut end at the back. I also shorten the factory Ruger base pin, besides being ugly they interfere with ejector stroke. The aftermarket or Colt/Uberti ejector rods are longer than the factory Rugers, and can give a little longer stroke to help kick empties out. They need to be cut to allow the cylinder to be removed, but end up slightly longer than the factory rods. Mine give a 1/4" or slightly more stroke than factory. Its enough I rarely if ever get cases hanging up when reloading when the rod is used like you hate the cases in the gun. Goobering around with the rod and poor technique trying to keep the cases from getting dirty is what gives SAs the reputation for being dreadfully slow to reload. Its painful to watch most people reload them. I cringe.

Theres probably other ways of doing it quickly. Im open to suggestions (based on experience, not guessing or theory) but none Ive tried or seen explained seemed to hold up as actually faster and less prone to fumbling.

Improved ejector rod heads,
42017

Lengthened ejector stroke
42018

[Totem Polar]

Malamute, great post, thanks. That all makes complete sense. We are pretty much on the same page, only you’re a lot further in than I am. I appreciate the input.

[Malamute]

Its just the result of messing with them a long time and slowly thinking that theres got to be better ways of doing some things. The reloads thing was mostly youthful impatience at wanting to keep shooting, but I came to realize it was a handy thing to know or do, so stopped trying to keep the brass from falling on the ground on centerfires and make it a habit all the time to kick it as far out of the gun as I could.

There may be aftermarket base pins that are shorter and look better, I had access to a drill press when I first started shortening them. At first it was for looks, the Ruger New Model base pins are clunky and ugly looking. They serve a purpose, but I hadnt lost a base pin from taking it out and was willing to give up the captive feature, then realized it helped ejection. The clipped spring was the next step.

[Lester Polfus]

A Single Six convertible is near the top of the "guns I don't really need but I'm going to buy anyway when I sell some more books" list. I don't own one, but I've shot three or four. I appreciate all the thoughts about bore size in the convertible guns, but every example I've fired with the .22 LR cylinder in place has been more than accurate enough for ethical small game hunting (which I define as "shooting rabbits in the head") and fun plinking at ranges I would define at "beyond reasonable." I've smoked clay pigeons with one at 100 yards using CCI ammo before.

I think it's a tempest in a teapot, unless you're going to shoot bulls eye matches.

[Bergeron]

Lester Polfus, I think you hit the nail on the head.

My long-gone Single Six never seemed like it lacked any mechanical accuracy; I was challenged by the fixed stainless steel sights and by my lack of existing handgun experience. I can totally agree with its suitability for small game hunting and general plinking.

The idea of screwing a match .22 LR barrel into a Single frame is excites my gun nerd thoughts and desire for projects, and not because I think it's anything truly necessary. I'd do the same thing to a S&W double action.

[oregon45]

Rather than modifying a Single Six, if you want a match-accurate 22lr revolver, a Freedom Arms Model 84 22lr Silhouette gun is the way to go. Although barrel quality is important, cylinder alignment is more so and that is the weak link with Ruger revolvers compared to the line-bored Freedom Arms guns.

[whomever]

"I think it's a tempest in a teapot, unless you're going to shoot bulls eye matches."

Heh. I shot bullseye for a couple of years with a Single Six - it was the only handgun I had. In the first match I scored 350/900 or something like that, and a couple of seasons later was up to 720 or so - which isn't leading the pack, but was ahead of some people with much fancier guns. Another competitor felt sorry for me and sold me a Model 41 with a dot on it for a song(I was at the age where presbyopia was kicking in). My scores jumped up to 780 or so, so who says you can't buy points :-). But that's a pretty small difference going from one of the worst bullseye guns to one of the best, not to mention irons to a dot.

IMHE the problem with a Single Six shooting bullseye, maybe unless you're a High Master, isn't the mechanical accuracy, it's having to cock it during rapid fire. If you cock with the shooting thumb you mess up your grip between shots, if you cock with your non-shooting hand you mess up your stance. The mechanical accuracy is in the noise (although, it's possible I just had a better than average Single Six).

This is a long winded way of saying that I agree that the bore size issue is more theoretical than practical.

It's a fun gun to shoot. I always feel like I should be wearing a cowboy hat.

[Malamute]

Ive kept using the "wrong" hold over time because it helped cock SAs easily. Left hand with trigger finger on front of trigger guard, left thumb in the hollow between the first and second joints of the right thumb. It helps keep the angle of the wrist in a favorable location rather than the left trigger finger under the trigger guard as is common recently. I use the same grip on everything, Between that and biscuits, I guess Ill get kilt on the streets over it. :D

It works decently on plate shoots (ones of 6 plates or less and no reloads), my time with the 45 Ruger was about identical to my times with the Smith 19.

[Baldanders]

I do have my eye on a Single Seven .327 mag.
Kind of like a modern .32/20, but able to shoot other kinds of .32 ammo as well.

I like my convertable Single Six, but it gets scant range time compared to my M17. A Single Seven would probably become my new OC "yard gun." Something about a "modern .32/20" just feels right for an outdoor carry piece in non-dangerous game territory.

[OlongJohnson]

Man, time flies. I've been creeping on Ruger SAs again. Thought I'd look and see if we had a thread on Single Sixes. I find this one...

Anyway, I found an interesting deal on an older Single Six Bisley in .32 H&R, blued, with the drift-adjustable rear sight and fluted cylinder. Not uber-rare from my research, but I don't think I've seen one before. I really like the flutes better than the unfluted roll marked cylinders. Good looking revolvers have flutes, that's just the way it is. Enough of a turn line to be a shooter, but very clean overall. Cheaper than it would be on GB.

I don't have anything .32, so it would be another caliber to load, but I have powders. Add half a thousand Starline cases, a couple boxes of XTPs and dies, and I'm looking at an easy $800 to get up and running with it.

But it's pretty and interesting, and seems fun. And I don't have an SA yet.

Theoretically, the drift-adjustable sight should be less subject to minor uncontrolled movement than an adjustable Ruger, I'd have a more limited range of loads that would hit to the same POI without moving stuff around, but at least more ability to get it set up right in the first place than with a Vaquero. So it seems to actually be suited to how it should be used, which is to find one or two loads that work and then just run it.

Obviously don't need it. It would just be for S&G and to dip my toe in the SA world a little.

Anyone have good reasons to go for it or not?

ETA: Pronunciation?

I always assumed that Bisley was pronounced like island, i.e., by-lee. I've recently heard a few people saying it biz-lee, which seems much less to me like how you'd pronounce the name of a place in England, which is on an island.

Anyone authoritative on this point?

[awp_101]

According to Wikerpedia (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bisley,_Surrey)it's pronounced "Biz-lee".

Get the .32 Single Six. If you don't like it, it shouldn't be difficult to move.

[Totem Polar]

According to Wikerpedia (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bisley,_Surrey)it's pronounced "Biz-lee".

Get the .32 Single Six. If you don't like it, it shouldn't be difficult to move.

This, this, and this. :)

[Hambo]

Man, time flies. I've been creeping on Ruger SAs again. Thought I'd look and see if we had a thread on Single Sixes. I find this one...

Anyway, I found an interesting deal on an older Single Six Bisley in .32 H&R, blued, with the drift-adjustable rear sight and fluted cylinder. Not uber-rare from my research, but I don't think I've seen one before. I really like the flutes better than the unfluted roll marked cylinders. Good looking revolvers have flutes, that's just the way it is. Enough of a turn line to be a shooter, but very clean overall. Cheaper than it would be on GB.



WTF is wrong with you? Just buy it. I've got SAs in larger calibers, but the Single Seven is my favorite.