Need some help identifying an older S&W .32 revolver

[Jamie]

I appreciate any input in advance.

I inherited this revolver from my father. He had a strong leaning towards the .32 caliber S&W's. He carried a .32 S&W snubbie in his right hip pocket as far back as I can remember, since the early 1960's at the least. He kept this one as his bedside gun until he passed.
I've had this one in the safe for around 10 years now, but this forum has rekindled my interest in wheelguns in a big way. So Thanks P-F for that!

The revolver is a fixed sight chromed .32. I took the side plate off this morning and cleaned a ton of crude out, oiled it up with Kroil and the action is now remarkably smooth. It locks up nice and tight and though I've only recently fired about 100 rounds through it, I've found it reliable and accurate (for me) thus far. 'm looking forward to working up some handloads for it.

I'll attach some pics below. I can certainly add more pics if needed.
Thanks for any info you may be able to offer.
Jamie

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[Lon]

Checked my SCSW copy and it looks like a .32 Military & Police.

[Lon]

Checked my SCSW copy and it looks like a .32 Military & Police.

Is it a 5 screw?

[Half Moon]

The serial number identifies it as a fixed sight K frame ( probably a Military and Police as noted by Lon above) made between 1948 and 1952. This would also make it a 5 screw. A good resource for Smith and Wesson identification:

https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/common-s-w-identifying-features.356710/

[Jamie]

Outstanding folks!
Thank you for the info. I was actually just reading that thread as I was trying to figure out how to tell if it was a 5 screw or not...there's much to learn about S&W identification.
Much appreciated!

[Duelist]

Outstanding folks!
Thank you for the info. I was actually just reading that thread as I was trying to figure out how to tell if it was a 5 screw or not...there's much to learn about S&W identification.
Much appreciated!

If there is a screw on the frame in front of the trigger guard, and another at the top of the side plate (as is visible in your pics), it is a five screw. Those are the two screws that were later deleted. The serial number and research will tell you the date range of when it was made, which will tell you what it *should* be, but on a post-war gun, you may have to actually look it over to tell whether it was a transition model or not.

[Jamie]

Thank you Duelist.
Then I've now learned it is in fact a 5 screw.
Please pardon the terrible pic, but yes, there is a screw in front of the trigger guard.

You guys are a great resource.

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[Jim Watson]

The postwar .32 S&W Long Military & Police is quite scarce, only 4813 made, per SCSW.
I can't tell from the pictures if it is factory nickel (rare) or aftermarket plated (still a great heirloom.)

Showing it on the S&W board would get some discussion going.
http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-hand-ejectors-1896-1961/

If you think it worth $75, you can get a Letter of Authenticity that will describe the original configuration and finish, and when and where shipped.
You could go on from there with a Historical Letter which would give any other information available.
http://www.swhistoricalfoundation.com/info.html

[Jamie]

The postwar .32 S&W Long Military & Police is quite scarce, only 4813 made, per SCSW.
I can't tell from the pictures if it is factory nickel (rare) or aftermarket plated (still a great heirloom.)

As you can tell from my posts and questions, my ignorance knows no bounds LOL. But I am being educated.

I have no idea how my father came into this gun. He ran a local grocery and butcher shop and like to play a bit of poker, so many "things" passed through our household as he would wheel and deal.

I'm most impressed at how tight and smooth the action is. I doubt he ever fired this gun. It's a great shooter. So I plan to enjoy it as one.

I don't know how helpful the attached pic would be, but this was it's insides before I cleaned it. The action smoothness improvement was dramatic, to say the least.


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[Jamie]

Showing it on the S&W board would get some discussion going.
http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-hand-ejectors-1896-1961/

If you think it worth $75, you can get a Letter of Authenticity that will describe the original configuration and finish, and when and where shipped.
You could go on from there with a Historical Letter which would give any other information available.
http://www.swhistoricalfoundation.com/info.html

Thanks for the suggestion.

I'll see about getting a thread going over there. Much obliged.

[deputyG23]

I appreciate any input in advance.

I inherited this revolver from my father. He had a strong leaning towards the .32 caliber S&W's. He carried a .32 S&W snubbie in his right hip pocket as far back as I can remember, since the early 1960's at the least. He kept this one as his bedside gun until he passed.
I've had this one in the safe for around 10 years now, but this forum has rekindled my interest in wheelguns in a big way. So Thanks P-F for that!

The revolver is a fixed sight chromed .32. I took the side plate off this morning and cleaned a ton of crude out, oiled it up with Kroil and the action is now remarkably smooth. It locks up nice and tight and though I've only recently fired about 100 rounds through it, I've found it reliable and accurate (for me) thus far. 'm looking forward to working up some handloads for it.

I'll attach some pics below. I can certainly add more pics if needed.
Thanks for any info you may be able to offer.
Jamie

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41209

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41211
This revolver shipped sometime in 1949, I believe.
The folks at Smith-Wesson forum can likely narrow it down to the year and month.

[Malamute]

Its a very nice gun, however, Im going to say its not a factory finish. Two things, the hammer and trigger are plated, Smith didnt normally do that, and the front of the frame where the yoke meets the frame, the factory finish-ground and polished those part assembled and the meeting joint usually is as perfect as can be, most after-factory refinishes dont leave them assembled and the joint is slightly rounded off at the edges, which yours looks like.

If not hurting for money, Id keep it and enjoy it as a functional family heirloom.

Edit: I cant tell from the pictures, what EXACTLY does the caliber marking say? Most K frame 32 M&Ps were in 32-20, or 32 WCF (same thing), not 32 S&W Long caliber.

[Jamie]

Its a very nice gun, however, Im going to say its not a factory finish. Two things, the hammer and trigger are plated, Smith didnt normally do that, and the front of the frame where the yoke meets the frame, the factory finish-ground and polished those part assembled and the meeting joint usually is as perfect as can be, most after-factory refinishes dont leave them assembled and the joint is slightly rounded off at the edges, which yours looks like.

If not hurting for money, Id keep it and enjoy it as a functional family heirloom.

Edit: I cant tell from the pictures, what EXACTLY does the caliber marking say? Most K frame 32 M&Ps were in 32-20, or 32 WCF (same thing), not 32 S&W Long caliber.

It's a keeper, and a shooter Malamute. While I'm not at the level of ammo consumption of a lot of folks on here, the overwhelming majority of my autoloaders have at least 5K rounds through them most many times that.
My wheel guns? Well I'm working on that. Good thing I handload!

Here's a better pic of the barrel. It was a challenge to get the lighting just right.

32 LONG CTG, but I have no idea of the significance of that. It's just that it lacked the traditional markings I was used to such as on my 686 I purchased in '87, or my '92 640.

I really appreciate the help of the good folks here.


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[Malamute]

OK, it is in fact 32 S&W Long caliber, not 32-20.You do have an uncommon gun.

It should be easy to load for, theres a lot of cast or jacketed bullets available, brass is easily available. It should be a lot of fun and very cheap to shoot.

[Lester Polfus]

I don't know if you reload, but if you do, I bet you could get a wadcutter load together for that would make you giggle because of how accurate, cheap and easy shooting it is.

[Jamie]

I don't know if you reload, but if you do, I bet you could get a wadcutter load together for that would make you giggle because of how accurate, cheap and easy shooting it is.

Absolutely I reload! Heck, I couldn't afford to shoot otherwise.

I just ordered a set of dies and some 100 gr Miester bullets. Now I have to search some load data and dust off my chrono. I have Bullseye, Unique, AA#2, 2400, HP 38, Titegroup, Trail Boss and probably something else in the cabinet.

I enjoy working up a good load almost as much as I do shooting. I'm looking forward to it.

[jandbj]

https://www.hensleygibbs.com/edharris/articles/32popguns.htm

[Jamie]

https://www.hensleygibbs.com/edharris/articles/32popguns.htm

Thank you.I appreciate Ed Harris articles. There's some good info here that I'll put to use.

[Jamie]

Thank you Jim Watson and all here.
The folks at S&W forum were very informative and helpful. You guys nailed it! Born approximately 1948 and fairly limited in production numbers.

I received my bullets, brass, and dies in the mail today. I'll work up some loads and drag out the chrono my next days off.

Looking forward to it!

[Malamute]

Here is some more 32 load info, this is specific to 32 S&W Long.

http://www.lasc.us/FryxellThe32S-WLong.htm

Theres also a ton of load info on the castboolits forum. Searches there often yield endless hours of reading on topics of interest.

[Jamie]

Here is some more 32 load info, this is specific to 32 S&W Long.

http://www.lasc.us/FryxellThe32S-WLong.htm

Theres also a ton of load info on the castboolits forum. Searches there often yield endless hours of reading on topics of interest.

Thank you Malamute!

Great article and I totally agree with you on the Castboolits forum. I did a search there yesterday (I'm a member) and I've been copying and pasting like a mad man, and still have pages to go.

[Jamie]

Well...it shoots better than I do!

I finally made it to the local indoor range and shot a few factory loads today.

I'll hopefully be working up some handloads over the next few weeks.

The DA trigger pull is very nice, and the SA is crazy light...but I have minimal experience with SA triggers. All shooting was offhand, but I'd like to see what the gun can do with some handloads and a rest.

In my defense (or as excuse, yep, it's an excuse...) I am spoiled by primarily shooting an RMR'd G 17 over the past year. At 15 yards I could not see the circles I was shooting at and have trouble seeing the minuscule sights on this revolver...so I just aimed at where I thought the center and right hand circles should be. My 65 year old bifocaled eyes just ain't what they used to be. I think I'd have done better sticking with DA only. But as my bride was sharing the lane with me I didn't want to hog up the time we had.
I'll keep working on this. :)

Any tips and suggestions are more than welcome.


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[Hambo]

In my defense (or as excuse, yep, it's an excuse...) I am spoiled by primarily shooting an RMR'd G 17 over the past year. At 15 yards I could not see the circles I was shooting at and have trouble seeing the minuscule sights on this revolver...so I just aimed at where I thought the center and right hand circles should be.

Yep, you're spoiled. That's good shooting. Get some B8s so you can see what you're shooting at and I'll bet you'll be even happier.

[Jamie]

Excellent suggestion Hambo! and Thank you.

I have a stack of B-8's and just put them in my range bag. That contrast in color should definitely help.

[Malamute]

Nickel sights are hard to see, particularly against a light background. You might try some black fingernail polish on the frame around the rear sight, and something that is easy to see on the front, I mostly use a white base coat with super bright orange top coat (Salon Perfect Traffic Cone seems the brightest Ive found so far).

A solid black dot or regular black bullseye target will probably help, most find holding on the bottom of the black (6 oclock hold) the easiest to see well and give consistent grouping.

Some actual target grips may help also.

I wouldnt be at all surprised if the gun was capable of 1 1/2" or smaller groups @ 25 yards with ammo it likes and everything squared away for best shooting. Whatever it will do, it should be a lot of fun to shoot and pretty cheap shooting once you are reloading.

[revchuck38]

Jamie - For the love of all that's good, get yourself some wadcutter ammo. You'll be making one small hole in those B8s.

[Jamie]

Jamie - For the love of all that's good, get yourself some wadcutter ammo. You'll be making one small hole in those B8s.

LOL. I'm just emptying brass so I'll have more to handload. I've got 500 LWC Miester bullets just waiting for me to finish priming and expanding the bag of 700 .38's sitting on my bench.
So it won't be much longer now. This whole "work" situation interferes with my shootin' life!

[Jamie]

Nickel sights are hard to see, particularly against a light background. You might try some black fingernail polish on the frame around the rear sight, and something that is easy to see on the front, I mostly use a white base coat with super bright orange top coat (Salon Perfect Traffic Cone seems the brightest Ive found so far).

They are definitely difficult for me to see clearly. Thanks for listing the exact orange polish. I'll get some ASAP.




A solid black dot or regular black bullseye target will probably help, most find holding on the bottom of the black (6 oclock hold) the easiest to see well and give consistent grouping.

Some actual target grips may help also.

I'll certainly look into the target grips. The BK grip adapter made a huge difference on this particular gun (for me). I would imagine proper target grips would be even more significant of an improvement.



I wouldnt be at all surprised if the gun was capable of 1 1/2" or smaller groups @ 25 yards with ammo it likes and everything squared away for best shooting. Whatever it will do, it should be a lot of fun to shoot and pretty cheap shooting once you are reloading.

I certainly hope so.

And I am really looking forward to working up some loads, and at 1.8-2.0 grs per round? Yep, It'll prove very affordable. :)

Thank you Malamute.

[Jamie]

I finally caught another day off and made it back to the range.
I had some Testor's handy and put some on the front sight...and used a B8 this time as suggested.
Wadcutter handloads are still pending, but I picked up some additional powders yesterday as well.

The contrast with the orange on the front sight and the Black target definitely helped out to 15 yards. I still had difficulty with precise sight alignment at 25 yards, but at least kept all the rounds on the paper DA at 25.
I plan to pick up the white and orange polish as suggested and still look forward to some accurate handloads.

Thanks again for the suggestions folks!

B8. 6 rounds each at 8-10-15 yards DA. I'm liking this old revolver!
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[Jamie]

Well I finally had the opportunity to load and shoot some handloads for this revolver... finally.
My bride of greater than 30 years has recently decided she wants to learn to shoot (Yahoo! :) ), so I've dedicated most of my free time teaching her dry fire and the majority of our weekly range sessions teaching her basic shooting... you gotta tread lightly in this endeavor folks. But I am thrilled for her interest!

This pics was a quick couple of cylinders of 100 gr Meister WC bullets, flush seated, over 1.9 grs Bullseye and WSPP, DA at 5 yards yesterday. I need to get out and chrono them if work will leave me be for a few days.

I hope to work them off a bag at 15- 25 next trip, but this old revolver seems to like this load.

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[Jim Watson]

My bride of greater than 30 years has recently decided she wants to learn to shoot

If there is anything better for a beginner than a two pound .32, I can't think of it offhand.

[Jamie]

If there is anything better for a beginner than a two pound .32, I can't think of it offhand.

I agree 100%. Unfortunately my bride has hands too small to adequately reach the trigger and maintain a safe grip on this revolver, that coupled with upper body and grip weakness... she has myriad chronic health issues. She can't cycle the trigger DA on any revolver I own as well.
Not to drift too far off on this, but she handled, dry fired and shot several handguns at our local indoor range (It's a Point Blank range and they treat us incredibly well). She choose and purchased an EZ .380 which was the only autoloader out of several she tried that she could manipulate. I don't think I have to worry about her getting killed in da streetz with it LOL. it beats the heck out of a sharp stick and she's coming along nicely and is dedicating herself to dry fire (with me assisting) 2-3 times/week and weekly range sessions... hence my limited shooting time. But I'd rather dedicate/allocate my time to teaching her.
I am going to borrow our Son's Hi Standard .22 revolver for her to try... but want to slowly introduce things to her. My enthusiasm, as with most of us, can be overwhelming to new shooters at times and I don't want to do anything that would murk the waters for her at this point. It's taken 31 years to get this far. :)

Sorry for the drift. I'm just really pleased to be able to share my love of shooting with her. She's tolerated me running all over the country to training events for decades now. I owe her.

Back to the .32 S&W. I picked up a couple of boxes of Fiocchi 32 S&W "short" 100 gr WC ammo to try in this revolver. Good grief! That ammo is incredibly accurate in this old gun and softer recoiling than .22 LR. I'll be working up some loads using that brass as well.

This pics is from 5-7 yds. The gun is obviously more accurate than I am! All in time... ;)

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[Jim Watson]

Fiocchi 32 S&W "short" 100 gr WC

Never saw a wadcutter in .32 S&W, all I know are .32 S&W Long. What have we got here?

Most European 25 metre target pistols are made for .32 S&W Long wadcutters.

[Jamie]

Never saw a wadcutter in .32 S&W, all I know are .32 S&W Long. What have we got here?

Most European 25 metre target pistols are made for .32 S&W Long wadcutters.

I'm glad you asked Jim. I was wrong. They are .32 S&W wadcutters. but not "short". My mind was playing tricks on me. But they are quite accurate nonetheless.
Their recoil impulse is less than my handloads. I'm curious as to what powder they are using. More than likely a proprietary mixture. But if anyone knows please chime in.

Here's a pic of the box. They are slightly recessed.

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