Dealing with lead buildup and carry rounds

[Mike R]

I occasionally practice with both a 642 and a 64. I shoot lead at the range - its a requirement if I want to shoot their steel. I recently ran about 400 rounds through the J frame without cleaning. The cylinder was moving freely so I figured it was good to go. When I charged the cylinder with Hornady Critical Defense 110s I found that 2 of them would not chamber due to lead build up. I was able to remove the build up with a brush, patches, solvent, and time.

Would use of a boresnake or brush at the range be sufficient to keep the build up under control? How about an oversize brush?
I keep the J frame in a drawer with a pair of SL Variants nearby and I would hate to find that the revolver won't close when I need it to function. I usually shoot 25 or 50 rounds in a session so I don't want to scrub and patch all 5 cylinders every week.

I guess I could go jacketed but I like practicing with lead.

Is there another solution to this problem that I don't know about?

[jetfire]

When I shot wheelguns a lot, I used lead reloads pretty consistently. I'd boresnake the chambers every couple of hundred rounds just to be safe.

[ford.304]

That works? I always found that because the bore snake wouldn't get as good of a fit on the cylinders, it didn't seem to do much...

[Chuck Haggard]

I use a bronze .40 brush for the chambers of my 642s, that and the occasional Hoppes.

One pass per chamber after a shorter shooting session normally knocks all of the crud out.

[rsa-otc]

I'm surprised. 30 years of our company shooting lead training ammo I've never had problems with the lead buildup in the cylinder preventing a service round from chambering. Unless it was after shooting .38 reloads in a .357, then trying to chamber a .357.

Our problems usually revolved around lead buildup on the forcing cone & cylinder face binding up the cylinder. Or lead building up in the barrel causing groups to open up and shift POI.

Easiest way we found to remove lead buildup was using a Lewis lead remover. Basically it is a brass screen over an expanding rubber plug.

[Tamara]

I occasionally practice with both a 642 and a 64.

With stainless guns, especially brushed stainless guns, those Lead-B-Gone (actually, I think they're called "Lead-Away") cloths/patches from Kleen Bore are the bomb diggity shizznit for getting cack off cylinder faces and out of chambers. Just don't use them on exposed blued surfaces, because they'll mess up bluing without much effort.

[rsa-otc]

With stainless guns, especially brushed stainless guns, those Lead-B-Gone (actually, I think they're called "Lead-Away") cloths/patches from Kleen Bore are the bomb diggity shizznit for getting cack off cylinder faces and out of chambers. Just don't use them on exposed blued surfaces, because they'll mess up bluing without much effort.

Yep they work wonders as well.

[Robinson]

I second the Lewis Lead Remover for the bore and forcing cone.

[ford.304]

I'm surprised. 30 years of our company shooting lead training ammo I've never had problems with the lead buildup in the cylinder preventing a service round from chambering. Unless it was after shooting .38 reloads in a .357, then trying to chamber a .357.

Our problems usually revolved around lead buildup on the forcing cone & cylinder face binding up the cylinder. Or lead building up in the barrel causing groups to open up and shift POI.

Easiest way we found to remove lead buildup was using a Lewis lead remover. Basically it is a brass screen over an expanding rubber plug.

That would be it, I'm usually shooting boatloads of .38 and a few dozen .357.

[jetfire]

That works? I always found that because the bore snake wouldn't get as good of a fit on the cylinders, it didn't seem to do much...

I should clarify that I used a .40 cal bore snake on my .357 revolvers and a .50 muzzleloader snake for my .45 ACP wheelies.

[Sal Picante]

Shoot a moly bullet or a harder cast lead bullet (like an S&S Hardcast). Harder lead won't foul so quickly and a good moly load, like Bayou Bullets won't really foul much at all.

The only way to get lead out of the chamber or barrel is through mechanical action.

Oversize brush, even a nylon one, is the way to go with some elbow grease.

[jkm]

Bore brush of your choice, attached to your rechargeable drill.....

[rsa-otc]

Bore brush of your choice, attached to your rechargeable drill.....

Been there done that as well, when I was going thru 50 plus guns. Just be careful not to over do, you can score the chambers.

[Mike R]

Thanks for all of the responses! I have a .40 brush somewhere, I will start with that. If that gives me the results I seek I will probably pick up the .40 boresnake.

I don't mind punching out 5 holes in the cylinder but the scrubbing and solvent with the .357 brush was ridiculous.

I also might try buying moly coated bullets, I have been using some I cast myself and the Federal 158s. The pointy 110s wouldn't chamber but more lead 158s were just fine. At the rate I shoot .38 buying lead instead of casting won't kill me.

For deeper cleaning I will pick up some of the Lead Away patches.

I don't know why brushes seem to be too small in pistols, I use a .50 brush for the .45, now a .40 for the .357- it seems like rifle brushes work as advertised in bores with the diameter listed on the brush.

[Chuck Haggard]

Bore brush of your choice, attached to your rechargeable drill.....

Really easy way to permanently F up your gun. Seriously.

A bronze chamber brush of the appropriate caliber is a far better idea.

[LSP972]

Don't waste your time with a BoreSnake. It won't get anything that a normal bore brush won't.

Heavy leading in a revolver cylinder can be caused by several things, but mainly soft bullet alloy is the culprit. As noted above, "mechanical action" and elbow grease with rod & brush is the only "safe" way. Clymer used to make a special reamer for this, but one mis-step and you could ruin a charge hole (chamber). Mercury washing works great, but has its own set of difficulties/hazards.

Get yourself some of these, with a brass or aluminum fixed, short cleaning rod...

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=1290/Product/REVOLVER-CHAMBER-BRUSH

.

[TR675]

Grant Cunningham recommends an tornado brush one size up from your bore (i.e., use a .40 brush in a .357's chambers).

[rsa-otc]

Grant Cunningham recommends an tornado brush one size up from your bore (i.e., use a .40 brush in a .357's chambers).

Unfortunately my experience using the Tornado Brush to remove lead build up has been less than stellar especially in the barrel where the spiral bristles don't get in the lands and groves as well. Spend the money on a lewis lead remover, and the lead removing cloth. Much more effective on lead.

[Tamara]

Clymer used to make a special reamer for this...

I know, right?

What could possibly go wrong there? ;)

[JFK]

I used to shoot lead out of my 1911. Moly makes life better. I have also used this with success. Shooters Choice Lead Remover is a good solvent.

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=21587/Product/LEWIS-LEAD-REMOVER