Should You Oil Bore/Chamber for EDC Pistol?

[Thy.Will.Be.Done]

I have always seen the recommendation that you should run a light coat of oil inside the barrel to protect against rust. I believe this was more of a way of protecting against rust for long term storage though, as I have also seen it mentioned that you should remove it before firing. Which begs the question of what to do for your carry pistols? They are both subject to rust during storage (carried in holster) and subject to firing at a moments notice. Is it a good idea to risk having a fouled primer in the chamber by putting some oil/grease down the bore? Is it even needed with pistols such as H&K/Beretta/SIG which have excellent surface treatments of the barrel to protect against corrosion?

[Dave T]

No. In 50+ years of handgun shooting I have never oiled the bore or chambers of any gun I've owned.

Dave

[LockedBreech]

Absolutely not. Your chamber should always be clean but dry.

[OlongJohnson]

One of the critical functions of the case is to grip the inside of the chamber through friction during the burning of the charge. If the chamber has oil in it, the case can't grip the chamber; thrust on the breech face and barrel-to-slide locking features is drastically increased.

[RJ]

I looked at the Instructions For Use for my Glock. It pretty clearly says no, that the barrel should be clean before firing. For storage, sure, but not for shooting.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190726/f6dcb7ffbf1bbadcda5c9b481ed578eb.jpg

[RevolverRob]

Only for storage.

When cleaning, I will use two or three drops of oil on a clean patch to push out any excess cleaner. Then use two oversized dry patches to rub the barrel and chamber clean. I put a very small amount of wax on the muzzle end of the gun, to prevent corrosion forming on the crown of the barrel. This is the only place I would be willing to put oil.

[KevH]

No

Not never.

[willie]

Running an oiled patch through bore and then following it with a dry clean patch will remove excess oil but leave a very thin film for protection. I use a twisted paper towel or Kleenex tissue to remove oil from chamber. Some may not be aware that copper from bullet jackets when deposited on bore surface provides some protection against oxidation causing rust. One pass with a plastic and dry bristle brush usually removes crud from bore and chamber. Unlike many I don't see cleaning guns as a chore. If I shoot it, the weapon is wiped down after field stripping. No scrubbing, though. My guns would not pass a Marine Corps inspection. However, I may know more about what should not be done than the D.I. Guns that store are cleaned and oiled more thoroughly.

[Nephrology]

Yeah, as others have said, absolutely not for any reason.

[Jim Watson]

Note: A contrary .22 LR auto can be improved with a drop of oil on the top round in the magazine.
But that's not your EDC, so back to your regular programming.

[JonInWA]

In my 41+ years of shooting experience, I always clean the chamber and bore with a quality bore cleaner, jag patch dry, then run a patch saturated with oil/preservative (in my case, currently Weapon Shield) through several times, then jag patch dry with a clean patch. A very thin film of Weapon Shield is left, which serves as an anti-corrosive. This has worked well for me in various climates and continents.

Best, Jon

[JTQ]

I think there should be oil in the barrel/chamber. I think the issue is understanding the volume of oil that should be in the barrel/chamber.

I'm pretty sure there is no handgun that comes with the instructions to soak your barrel in a degreaser to remove all oil from the barrel and then reassemble for carry. On the other hand, there most likely aren't any instructions telling you to soak your barrel in a tub of oil, and then reassemble it and shoot.

As JonInWAS said, nearly every pistol instruction manual tells you to oil the barrel and then run a dry patch through the barrel. There is no way that patch removes all the oil, it leaves a thin coat of oil in the barrel and that's what you should have.

If you're concerned that the amount of oil in your barrel/chamber is too much and can cause catastrophic consequences, here is Larry Vickers.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9bOT_d60LM

[revchuck38]

I still do it old school - clean the gun with Hoppe's, ensure the breech face and chamber are bone dry, and run a mop from the muzzle to just short of the chamber to leave a really light coat of oil in the barrel. I could probably omit the last step but 36 years in the Army has ingrained that habit.

[OlongJohnson]

Some may not be aware that copper from bullet jackets when deposited on bore surface provides some protection against oxidation causing rust.

Actually, in a corrosive (humid) environment, copper and carbon in contact with iron are both pretty bad for the iron. (And steel is mostly iron.)

https://www.npl.co.uk/special-pages/guides/bimetallic-guide.pdf

[Kyle Reese]

I run a boresnake through my training handgun bores once or twice a year and call it good. My carry guns have clean and dry barrels and chambers. I've yet to encounter any rust or corrosion in any of my barrels, and I live in hot, humid Virginia.

Sent from my VS995 using Tapatalk

[Leroy Suggs]

I don't know if you should have barrel and chamber dry. I do know if you leave them dry in Florida you will regret it.

[Robinson]

When I do clean the bore, which isn't very often, I use my cleaning solvent followed by a patch with a little oil on it, then dry patches until they come out clean and dry. Takes a couple minutes.

[JAH 3rd]

I run a very lightly oil patch down the bore, then run a clean patch down the bore. I take a clean patch and run it around the chamber several time to remove any oil there.

[willie]

Galvanic corrosion requires an electrolyte. Though I accept the concepts of the science, I'm unable to predict the effect of copper in bores when moisture in the air is the electrolyte. Perhaps Rig Gun Grease or oil applied and then removed with a dry patch has left sufficient barrier film on my bore surfaces. The fact that my bores do not rust does not nullify corrosion science.

My question is how often should copper be removed from bores and how aggressive should our measures be to remove it? Long ago I ceased using brass or stainless steel brushes.

[GLB]

I run a oil patch followed by several dry patches on all my guns when cleaning including precision rifles.

[Danjojo]

Different schools of thought when it comes to utmost cold bore accuracy. I just do the general military way of a light coat on bore and chamber for all firearms.

Not sure if it provides a noticeable benefit over one that's simply clean in regards to pressures and feeding (most important), as say compared to one that's severely gunked up.

When I've not done it there hasn't been any corrosion but depending on where you live and what you shoot that could happen.

[Greg]

I just don't patch the bore 100% clean and dry. This leaves a wee bit of protection against rust.

If the first patch after scrubbing the bore looks disgusting, I quit when I think "not bad".

Over cleaning a gun is the sign of a sick mind :cool:

[Bart Carter]

There is a product called Eezox that is perfect for cleaning the bore/chamber, protecting the bore/chamber from rust and at the same time lubricating the bore/chamber. I have been using it for years. You can also coat the whole pistol with it. It is a dry lube. Very good for magazines too.

[blues]

There is a product called Eezox that is perfect for cleaning the bore/chamber, protecting the bore/chamber from rust and at the same time lubricating the bore/chamber. I have been using it for years. You can also coat the whole pistol with it. It is a dry lube. Very good for magazines too.

My buddy Jerry Halfrich, (knife maker and custom barrel builder), uses it quite a bit. The smell is an acquired taste, imho. :cool:

[farscott]

Living in the humid south where walking from conditioned space to the outdoors causes the moisture in the hot humid air to condense on a gun, my last cleaning step is to run an oily boresnake down the bore. I want a very thin layer of lube to be a barrier against moisture. This is more an issue with rifles but I do the same with handguns.

[JBP55]

Weapon Shield to clean followed by a dry patch.

[ST911]

How many living in a humid region have actually found evidence of corrosion (early or otherwise) in the bore of a modern EDC service or CCW gun that wasn't seriously neglected?

If visiting a humid region, how long of a stay would be reasonably expected to produce such a finding?

The SE is often mentioned. Is humidity there different than any other humid locations? What about guns that go back and forth with frequent travelers?

Methinks this is a nothingburger with an extra patty of whatwe'vealwaysdone.

[revchuck38]

How many living in a humid region have actually found evidence of corrosion (early or otherwise) in the bore of a modern EDC service or CCW gun that wasn't seriously neglected?

If visiting a humid region, how long of a stay would be reasonably expected to produce such a finding?

The SE is often mentioned. Is humidity there different than any other humid locations? What about guns that go back and forth with frequent travelers?

Methinks this is a nothingburger with an extra patty of whatwe'vealwaysdone.'

It could well be. Then again, it doan hurt nuthin'. :)

Another thing that skews the possible outcomes is the volume of shooting most of us do. Most of us usually hit the range at least weekly. I don't know what effect that frequency and volume might have on corrosion formation.

[Malamute]

I dont know how long it would require to happen, but I left a blued S&W revolver at dads place in the midwest for a year, with my usual western utter lack of anything in the bore. When I visited the next year, it had a nice fine orange coating of rust glaze in the bore. It cleaned up fairly easily, no pitting was evident, but it was a bit alarming. It had been sitting in his safe with his other guns, which he kept always looking like brand new. He had no reason to mess with mine, so it just sat with no attention.

[farscott]

How many living in a humid region have actually found evidence of corrosion (early or otherwise) in the bore of a modern EDC service or CCW gun that wasn't seriously neglected?

If visiting a humid region, how long of a stay would be reasonably expected to produce such a finding?

The SE is often mentioned. Is humidity there different than any other humid locations? What about guns that go back and forth with frequent travelers?

Methinks this is a nothingburger with an extra patty of whatwe'vealwaysdone.

I have seen carbon steel 1911 bores show evidence of pitting when stored in a safe for less than a month. Kimber bores were famous for rusting between the time they were shipped from the factory to the time they arrived at a stocking dealer. A little lube in the bore of a carried pistol goes a long way towards preventing corrosion and does no harm.

The length of visit is not so much the issue as it is the number of trips between conditioned space, the change in temperature, and the humidity level. Right now, my home is 72 degrees and the outside temperature is 77 degrees -- but the humidity inside is 45 percent and outside it is 89 percent. The trip outside leaves a layer of moisture on the pistol and on my eyeglasses. The moisture on the lenses is enough to make seeing difficult. This is an issue most often in the mornings and evenings as the ambient temperature approaches or falls below the dew point. If one stays outside, the moisture stays on the gun until the metal reaches ambient temperature. If you move in and out of conditioned space very often, a fair amount of moisture finds its way into the pistol, especially at part-to-part interfaces.

[StraitR]

I do a 3 step process these days, but my range trips are generally short and light (one, maybe two boxes).

Step 1 - Dry boresnake.
Step 2 - Dry boresnake
Step 3 - Dry boresnake

[JTQ]

There is a product called Eezox ....


I have seen carbon steel 1911 bores show evidence of pitting when stored in a safe for less than a month. Kimber bores were famous for rusting between the time they were shipped from the factory to the time they arrived at a stocking dealer.
Over the years I've convinced myself, if I ever become a Kimber 1911 owner, I'd become an Eezox user.

[HCM]

There is a product called Eezox that is perfect for cleaning the bore/chamber, protecting the bore/chamber from rust and at the same time lubricating the bore/chamber. I have been using it for years. You can also coat the whole pistol with it. It is a dry lube. Very good for magazines too.

Eezox is great for long term storage but FYI it is super toxic. Actually one of THE most toxic gun lubes out there.

[HCM]

How many living in a humid region have actually found evidence of corrosion (early or otherwise) in the bore of a modern EDC service or CCW gun that wasn't seriously neglected?

If visiting a humid region, how long of a stay would be reasonably expected to produce such a finding?

The SE is often mentioned. Is humidity there different than any other humid locations? What about guns that go back and forth with frequent travelers?

Methinks this is a nothingburger with an extra patty of whatwe'vealwaysdone.

Many of these things date from the days of corrosive ammunition when cleaning guns as soon as possible after firing was a real thing.

Of course corrosive ammunition hasn’t been the commercial standard in the U.S. for 80 years so....

[Thy.Will.Be.Done]

Eezox is great for long term storage but FYI it is super toxic. Actually one of THE most toxic gun lubes out there.

I have been using Eezox exclusively for the last several years, but am moving away from this for that exact reason. I have read that the person who came up with the formula created it to keep rust off his saltwater fishing rigs, which would not surprise me as it works well for keeping rust away. That said, I am not sure I like the stuff as a lubricant as it seems to function OK at best.. I feel lubricity is more of a priority in firearms that need to work every time and have long service life.


Many of these things date from the days of corrosive ammunition when cleaning guns as soon as possible after firing was a real thing.

Of course corrosive ammunition hasn’t been the commercial standard in the U.S. for 80 years so....

While the powder itself is no longer corrosive, the result is still similar in that the fouling attracts moisture from the air to stay on the metal. Probably not as big a deal, but still not good there.

[HCM]

I have been using Eezox exclusively for the last several years, but am moving away from this for that exact reason. I have read that the person who came up with the formula created it to keep rust off his saltwater fishing rigs, which would not surprise me as it works well for keeping rust away. That said, I am not sure I like the stuff as a lubricant as it seems to function OK at best.. I feel lubricity is more of a priority in firearms that need to work every time and have long service life.



While the powder itself is no longer corrosive, the result is still similar in that the fouling attracts moisture from the air to stay on the metal. Probably not as big a deal, but still not good there.

It was never the powder that was corrosive in smokeless - it was the salts used in the primers.

Again - info from the past misinterpreted in the present.

The ammo is only half the story. Modern duty /carry guns have stainless, Nitrided, DLC, chrome lines etc bores and barrels.

Live in the

[revchuck38]

While the powder itself is no longer corrosive, the result is still similar in that the fouling attracts moisture from the air to stay on the metal. Probably not as big a deal, but still not good there.

Nerd alert!!!

FWIW, powder wasn't the culprit in corrosive ammo, it was the priming compound that caused issues.

ETA: Hey, HCM, you're a pretty smart guy! :)

[Wonder9]

Laughs in chrome-lined and nitride barrels.

[OlongJohnson]

I have seen carbon steel 1911 bores show evidence of pitting when stored in a safe for less than a month. Kimber bores were famous for rusting between the time they were shipped from the factory to the time they arrived at a stocking dealer. A little lube in the bore of a carried pistol goes a long way towards preventing corrosion and does no harm.

The length of visit is not so much the issue as it is the number of trips between conditioned space, the change in temperature, and the humidity level. Right now, my home is 72 degrees and the outside temperature is 77 degrees -- but the humidity inside is 45 percent and outside it is 89 percent. The trip outside leaves a layer of moisture on the pistol and on my eyeglasses. The moisture on the lenses is enough to make seeing difficult. This is an issue most often in the mornings and evenings as the ambient temperature approaches or falls below the dew point. If one stays outside, the moisture stays on the gun until the metal reaches ambient temperature. If you move in and out of conditioned space very often, a fair amount of moisture finds its way into the pistol, especially at part-to-part interfaces.

This is a serious issue anywhere that gets its air from the Gulf of Mexico or the Caribbean, pretty much from Brownsville, TX to somewhere in the Carolinas, maybe farther north. Here in Houston, there are lots of days where if I put on my sunglasses before walking outside, they fog up as soon as the outside air hits them.

If you haven't lived in this kind of humidity, you simply have no basis for understanding how ridiculous it is. Life is a continual battle to manage it and to prevent corrosion and mold, even when you're far enough away from the ocean that the salt isn't an issue.

FWIW, I have found that Hornady One Shot cleaner/lube is a really effective rust preventer. I use it on cast iron shop equipment (like the disc sander platform and vise) and other tools, and it basically keeps a lid on the problem. I use it on all the non-lubrication-requiring metal surfaces of guns. It has a nearly dry feel once the solvents evaporate, extremely thin and doesn't transfer to things and leave oil marks. I put a patch of it down the bore, let it dry for a bit, then put a dry patch down the bore a time or two. Then, at least for a pistol, I mop out the chamber so it will be properly dry with a cotton swab wet with non-chlorinated brake cleaner. If the barrel doesn't have a modern conversion treatment (i.e., Melonite or equivalent), I'll leave the Hornady in the chamber until the next time it's going to be shot.

[blues]

^^^We feel your pain in the Carolinas. Lots of rain, mold, etc...

I haven't found corrosion to be a big issue by and large.

[Shoresy]

^^^We feel your pain in the Carolinas. Lots of rain, mold, etc...

I haven't found corrosion to be a big issue by and large.

It gets bad on the eastern side of the state. I lived in Moore County and when I moved there from the northeast, the things that would rust, and the speed at which it occurred were dramatic compared to what I was used to. Knives that had never required anything more than a basic cleaning suddenly required regular maintenance just to keep the rust at bay. What Olongjohnson described sounds accurate - if it was an exposed metal surface, plan to fight rust on it.

I miss a number of things from NC; the rust isn't one of them.

[blues]

It gets bad on the eastern side of the state. I lived in Moore County and when I moved there from the northeast, the things that would rust, and the speed at which it occurred were dramatic compared to what I was used to. Knives that had never required anything more than a basic cleaning suddenly required regular maintenance just to keep the rust at bay. What Olongjohnson described sounds accurate - if it was an exposed metal surface, plan to fight rust on it.

I miss a number of things from NC; the rust isn't one of them.

I hear ya.

Used to live on a barrier island in South FL. Talk about corrosive environment. Though my Glocks never exhibited any rust.

[revchuck38]

This is a serious issue anywhere that gets its air from the Gulf of Mexico or the Caribbean, pretty much from Brownsville, TX to somewhere in the Carolinas, maybe farther north. Here in Houston, there are lots of days where if I put on my sunglasses before walking outside, they fog up as soon as the outside air hits them.

If you haven't lived in this kind of humidity, you simply have no basis for understanding how ridiculous it is. Life is a continual battle to manage it and to prevent corrosion and mold, even when you're far enough away from the ocean that the salt isn't an issue.

Quoted for truth. :) I often ride my bike around sunrise when humidity is highest, and it's common to have condensation dripping off the leading edges of the bike and my helmet. I don't have to sweat to get soaked, just passing through the air does it. And power washing one's house is a thing to remove mold.

[Clark Jackson]

I have always seen the recommendation that you should run a light coat of oil inside the barrel to protect against rust. I believe this was more of a way of protecting against rust for long term storage though, as I have also seen it mentioned that you should remove it before firing. Which begs the question of what to do for your carry pistols? They are both subject to rust during storage (carried in holster) and subject to firing at a moments notice. Is it a good idea to risk having a fouled primer in the chamber by putting some oil/grease down the bore? Is it even needed with pistols such as H&K/Beretta/SIG which have excellent surface treatments of the barrel to protect against corrosion?

"The golden rule in weapons lubricant is you can run a gun dirty and wet, but not dirty and dry." -Larry Vickers

I'm wondering... why this post? The responses to the thread were interesting and I don't have much else to offer that others haven't already said, so I'm just curious - what prompted you to ask the question?

[willie]

I will step up and give an opinion why the question is valid. One reason is that it was asked sincerely. From this it follows that the op was perplexed about which choice is best practice. Larry Vickers does have expert status, yet he says that his recommendation and that of the Army are not the same regarding lube. So whom do you believe?

[fixer]

This is a serious issue anywhere that gets its air from the Gulf of Mexico or the Caribbean, pretty much from Brownsville, TX to somewhere in the Carolinas, maybe farther north. Here in Houston, there are lots of days where if I put on my sunglasses before walking outside, they fog up as soon as the outside air hits them.

If you haven't lived in this kind of humidity, you simply have no basis for understanding how ridiculous it is. Life is a continual battle to manage it and to prevent corrosion and mold, even when you're far enough away from the ocean that the salt isn't an issue.

.


This.

There is a small spot on a beater 92 bore where the chrome didn't quite make it. Literally overnight its a brown ugly spot. This is if I'm staying at my in-laws ranch near College Station.


At my place in W. Texas, I can keep the same pistol next to the shower and it still won't rust. lol.

[learnerpermitted]

The guy that started The Box O' Truth tested this issue with different oils. He soaked the primers of winchester white box 9mm with different oils including wd-40. He soaked them and shot them after different durations of soaking. He took them out to 6 weeks and they all shot just fine. You can google "the Box O' Truth Oil vs primer" and it'll take you to that article.

[Thy.Will.Be.Done]

"The golden rule in weapons lubricant is you can run a gun dirty and wet, but not dirty and dry." -Larry Vickers

I'm wondering... why this post? The responses to the thread were interesting and I don't have much else to offer that others haven't already said, so I'm just curious - what prompted you to ask the question?

The reason is because I have been using Eezox for EDC pistols, but stopped recently after I read a piece by Grant Cunningham about Lubrication which made a lot of sense to me...

https://www.grantcunningham.com/2006/05/lubrication-101/

So, I ordered a tub of Lubriplate SFL-0 grease he recommends from MidwayUSA and am using a LIGHT (doesn't yield much of anything when you run your finger on the metal) coat on all the sliding surfaces of the slide/frame. That being said, with Eezox you can treat the barrel and it will be completely dry to the touch and protected from corrosion. Where I live high heat/humidity is a year round proposition.

I have experienced some rust with Eezox, although only with minor parts such as a slide lock and recoil spring assembly on my USP 40. That being said, I had got some sweat on it and never bothered to clean it all out for quite a while. I don't doubt that H&K barrels are about as corrosion proof as you can get for metal finishes, but wanted to play it safe so here we are talking about lube.

[TGS]

Since age 6, I've swabbed the bore of all my guns with a wet lube patch, then followed it with a dry patch, and have never suffered any ill effects for it.

[blues]

Since age 6, I've swabbed the bore of all my guns with a wet lube patch, then followed it with a dry patch, and have never suffered any ill effects for it.

We'll be the judges of that. ;)

[Clark Jackson]

I will step up and give an opinion why the question is valid. One reason is that it was asked sincerely. From this it follows that the op was perplexed about which choice is best practice. Larry Vickers does have expert status, yet he says that his recommendation and that of the Army are not the same regarding lube. So whom do you believe?

I don't doubt the OP's sincerity in the original post which is why I asked the question. I offered up Larry's quote as food for thought and not as dogma or as an appeal to authority. I am 100% genuinely curious as to what the OP's motivation was for asking the question or what prompted it. Sometimes the answer is as simple as "I was cleaning my gun last week and it hit me..." or could be something much more complex and interesting. I'm just curious and not seeking to debate one side or the other.

[Clark Jackson]

The reason is because I have been using Eezox for EDC pistols, but stopped recently after I read a piece by Grant Cunningham about Lubrication which made a lot of sense to me...

https://www.grantcunningham.com/2006/05/lubrication-101/

So, I ordered a tub of Lubriplate SFL-0 grease he recommends from MidwayUSA and am using a LIGHT (doesn't yield much of anything when you run your finger on the metal) coat on all the sliding surfaces of the slide/frame. That being said, with Eezox you can treat the barrel and it will be completely dry to the touch and protected from corrosion. Where I live high heat/humidity is a year round proposition.

I have experienced some rust with Eezox, although only with minor parts such as a slide lock and recoil spring assembly on my USP 40. That being said, I had got some sweat on it and never bothered to clean it all out for quite a while. I don't doubt that H&K barrels are about as corrosion proof as you can get for metal finishes, but wanted to play it safe so here we are talking about lube.

Interesting. This is why I asked what motivated you to make the original post. You never know when asking what motivated someone to do something will lead you to a place where you can learn something. Thanks for the information.

[10mmfanboy]

My Glocks usually sweat when I go outside in the summer, do much of the same in the winter only they sweat going inside. I have had slight rust spots on gen 3 fry pan finish where the finish was worn. They cleaned up fine. I usually do the same, wipe one dry patch through, and I know it isn't bone dry in the chamber or barrel, I have never had a ammo failure because of it.

Primers are pretty tough these days, most of the information on corrosion and primers being affected by moisture are a thing of the past. I've already put some hand loads in water for an hour and still never had a misfire, and I didn't use any kind of sealer on primers or case mouth, but I crimp my brass pretty decent. I also fired 40 year old 12 gauge buckshot that was stored in a garage the whole time in it's cardboard box and I don't recall any of them not going off either. I do make sure to rotate my carry rounds though.

[arcfide]

I frequent both the Midwest and the beachy areas of Gulf-side Florida. The Gulfside salt air will kill just about anything. Regular carrying in that environment would increase my regular maintenance. I read either here or on another forum where someone took apart their DA/SA gun and found the hammer spring almost entirely rusted over. In those kinds of environments, I would make sure to keep the gun properly lubricated, but I wouldn't be willing to put any heavy coatings on it, so I would just apply lighter coats more often (refresh a lighter oil more often), compared to heavier weight options. That's just my personal preference.

In the Midwest, in many houses, I've seen rapid changes in humidity and temperature from iffy central air systems and lack of sealing around the houses. Hot/cold spots in the walls and so forth also introduce temperature differential. I didn't do a lot of maintenance initially on some of my metal equipment that was stored safely indoors in climate controlled areas for a while, thinking that they were safe, but I was proven wrong when I found corrosion on a number of different items with different grades of steel. This includes some blued magazines that I have.

I have since taken to being a little more vigilant on this, and ensuring that most of these tools and parts have been wiped down with an oily rag, which seems to suffice. On things like magazines and gun parts, I've taken to using an oil to clean, and then wiping things down "dry". This keeps them oiled, but very lightly, and provides reasonable protection (if refreshed regularly) without the disadvantages of some of the more aggressive approaches, at the cost of more labor. At least in the Midwest where I am, with very high, but not heavily salted, humidity, it seems to work.

This means that the chamber and bores on my regularly maintained pistols will be mostly dry, but have some small residual oil protection.

I have noticed that the brass of some cartridges will corrode in the humidity indoors here. I was a bit surprised by this. And this leads to oiling rounds and primer failure. While the primers are very strongly seated, in some self-defense ammunition I discovered an interesting effect. I don't know how this happened, but over time (less than a couple of years), the rounds of some of my self-defense ammo became "loose" in the sense that the seal at the mouth of the case wasn't total. The rounds could "shift" just a little bit. They didn't setback or forward, but they would rotate just a bit. This unnerved me slightly, but I suspect that if those rounds had been oiled sufficiently, then the creeping nature of light gun oil could have conceivably made it through that seal to the powder more easily than through the modern primer pocket. These rounds did show some corrosion on the bullets themselves, so I'm inclined to think that humidity and the like might have had something to do with them getting loose. This would make me wary of using too much oil anywhere that would get it on the rounds. They all shot fine and were reliable, but I used them only as range ammo.

[balance]

What was told to me, was to not put any lube on any of the surfaces that come in direct contact with the cartridge. This includes the inside of the mag body, the feedway on the bottom of the slide, the feedramp, the breechface, and the chamber.

My question would be, do those who lube the chamber, also lube the inside of the mag body, the feedway on the bottom of the slide, the feedramp, and the breechface? Why would they be in any less danger in regards to corrosion?

[Spartan1980]

Once upon a time I did my own corrosion test. Tested a bunch of common and popular products.

I took a steel computer tower case cover and ground the finish off of it with a 120 grit flapper wheel on my angle grinder. Then I thoroughly cleaned it with acetone and MEK. Then masked off about a dozen or so square areas and labeled each. I was a Froglube convert at the time and was really wanting to see how it compared. I carefully applied each product avoiding any cross contamination and placed it outside in my backyard leaned up against my storage shed at about a 15 degree angle exposed to the open sky. I let it go for months, taking pics every so often.

I tested both versions of Froglube (liquid and paste), Eezox, Slip2k EWL, Ballistol, Breakfree CLP, Remoil (non aerosol), Mobil 1 5W30, and Amsoil 10W40 synthetic motorcycle oil. The results were surprising. I tested both versions of Froglube two different ways. Just a light coat of each applied and left alone, and also the hair dryer heating method and wiping it off after it cooled. I wiped those off like I meant it too. Amazingly those two wiped areas did better than those that had product left on it. All other areas had product applied with a clean cleaning patch and left a light film of each.

The winner? Froglube paste, then the liquid, both applied with the substrate warmed and wiped thoroughly after cooling. They were followed very closely by Eezox. Then Amsoil 10W40, and everything after that gets foggy, it's been awhile.

The biggest surprise was that it was hard to tell whether my untreated control area (bare steel with no protection at all) or Breakfree CLP started rusting first. Ballistol did slightly better, but I didn't expect much from it since it's water miscible and Remoil wasn't far behind with rust starting either. Everything else held up pretty well. This panel was snowed on, sleeted on, rained on, fogged on, etc. for months. It went from freezing temps to 100+ degree days starting in very late winter.

I still use FL paste for corrosion protection on the outside of my guns and in the bores and chamber area but that's it. I always wipe it off and dry patch it because I learned the not so easy way that it tries to impersonate epoxy glue if lubed generously and left alone for a year or more. I threw the liquid bottle in the trash because it got "just nasty" smelling. But solely for corrosion protection, I've not found anything better. For lube? Almost anything is better if you aren't reapplying FL on a very regular basis. I never had the warm and fuzzy feeling with it as a lube either after using it for a very short time. It's also great on reloading dies.