Why we clean and inspect

[RevolverRob]

In our “two is one, one is none” world - one thing that tends to fall to the wayside is periodic inspection and maintenance. We shoot or use something until it breaks, diagnose the failure, and repair.

“Don’t fix what isn’t broken” is commonly spouted. But what constitutes broken? A failure prone part or one that clearly shows some sign of weakening should be replaced. “An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.”

Today, as part of my bi-annual handgun maintenance day, I took down my most carried guns and cleaned and inspected them. In the process I found this on the slide stop of my 2011.

39855

This void is clearing a casting issue. But it was covered initially by the finish of the part and then gunk from shooting. It wasn’t until I gave it a thorough degreasing and inspection that I found this defect. It’s not that big a deal, I now will sideline the gun until I acquire a replacement, fit it, and subsequently test it to my satisfaction (this is why we have multiple guns!). But now I can do this before the slide stop breaks and locks up my gun mid-shooting. And this is why we clean and inspect our guns carefully.

[CCT125US]

Exactly. I stripped my P30 v1 last night, discovered rust on the cylindrical pin on the hammer bearing, as well as the hammer strut. This was post dip in the Hocking river, followed by a clean water rinse. This v1 also served as my suppressor host for about 1000 rounds. The amount of carbon build up combined with river crud was impressive. A bit more oil and regular maintenance as you suggest, would probably have prevented the rust. Always a good reminder.

[Chuck Haggard]

Exactly. I stripped my P30 v1 last night, discovered rust on the cylindrical pin on the hammer bearing, as well as the hammer strut. This was post dip in the Hocking river, followed by a clean water rinse. This v1 also served as my suppressor host for about 1000 rounds. The amount of carbon build up combined with river crud was impressive. A bit more oil and regular maintenance as you suggest, would probably have prevented the rust. Always a good reminder.


In the past I've found that using WD40 for what it's designed for (Water Displacement formula 40...) after a tap water rinse, then spraying with something like Gun Scrubber to get the WD40 out, then lubing as I normally would, works really well to keep rust out of the gun after it's been underwater and I can't detail the gun out anytime soon.

I've also found this works after your Glock has been in sea water. Tap water, hotel blow dryer, then lube can also get you by post salt water exposure.

[revchuck38]

In the past I've found that using WD40 for what it's designed for (Water Displacement formula 40...) after a tap water rinse, then spraying with something like Gun Scrubber to get the WD40 out, then lubing as I normally would, works really well to keep rust out of the gun after it's been underwater and I can't detail the gun out anytime soon.


<thread drift>
My retirement job is working in a bike shop. I've had a version of the following conversation numerous times:

Me: "Your chain's rusted and seized to the point it needs to be replaced. What do you lube it with?"

Customer: "WD-40."

Me: "WD-40 isn't a lubricant."

Customer: "Huh?"
</thread drift>

[RevolverRob]

This was a good time for me, needing to order a replacement slide stop had me go through and order a bunch of PM parts I needed for other guns too (springs, etc).

Now to wait on the box of goodies from Brownells to arrive. :cool:

Ended up going with a 10-8 Gen 2 slide stop. I like Yam's parts in general and a machined barstock piece won't have a casting void in it.

[NH Shooter]

Along these same lines, I regularly de-fuzz my EDC guns (you know, all that lint and fuzz that accumulates from being carried). It only takes a few minutes with an old toothbrush, oral compressed-air source, a Q-Tip and some Slip 2000 EWL, serving as part of this often-forgotten inspection and maintenance routine.

Good topic.

[Joe in PNG]

I know I don't have to clean, but enjoy the whole cleaning and inspecting thing anyway.

[revchuck38]

Along these same lines, I regularly de-fuzz my EDC guns (you know, all that lint and fuzz that accumulates from being carried).

On my to-do list for tonight, thanks for the reminder. Since PX4s like to be run wet, it'll get re-lubed too.

[LSP552]

I've also found this works after your Glock has been in sea water. Tap water, hotel blow dryer, then lube can also get you by post salt water exposure.

There is a reason that a G26 is my kayak gun...

[blues]

There is a reason that a G26 is my kayak gun...

http://www.gstatic.com/tv/thumb/v22vodart/5549/p5549_v_v8_ad.jpg

[Drang]

<thread drift>
My retirement job is working in a bike shop. I've had a version of the following conversation numerous times:

Me: "Your chain's rusted and seized to the point it needs to be replaced. What do you lube it with?"

Customer: "WD-40."

Me: "WD-40 isn't a lubricant."

Customer: "Huh?"
</thread drift>

<continuing thread drift>
Back in the 70s, I worked in my buddy's bike shop during summer break from college.

We had that conversation at least once a week.
</thread drift>

[RevolverRob]

Got the parts in earlier this afternoon and was home a little early. So I managed to get the slide stop fitted, but didn't have enough time to hit the range, today. I settled for a very vigorous dryfire session. I didn't have a single unintentional lockback when running ST action pro dummies in the mags. No orange plastic shaved off on the lobe of the stop, visual inspection shows plenty of clearance from the bullet to the stop. Solid lock back on empty mags. Should be good to go, but of course, shooting guns is different than dry-firing them, and could reveal something. But it looks and feels good.

FYI, the 10-8 slide stop is awesome. Slightly oversized on the pin to fit through the frame without excessive pressure, so I had to use a frame and slide fitting file to thin it. Took maybe three passes around the pin before it slid in and out perfectly, requiring only a modicum of pressure to remove when indexed. It's also angled where it interacts with the slide-stop plunger. Allowing it to be "wiggled" back into place with just a little bit of pressure. As opposed to trying to cram a GI slide stop into place (or worse, getting the "idiot" mark. No need for a 'Widget' or flat head screwdriver, or cursing. Just a little wiggle back and forth and it will slide right in (that's what she said?). Only thing I don't like it about it, the pad itself is a little sharp. Some light stoning and cold blue should resolve that.

Once I had the cast slide stop back out, I took a look at it with my magnifiers at 10x, I could see it was actually starting to get lightly deformed around the casting flaw. Nothing that screams, "I'm gonna fail right now!", but still, nothing good.

[Clark Jackson]

In the past I've found that using WD40 for what it's designed for (Water Displacement formula 40...) after a tap water rinse, then spraying with something like Gun Scrubber to get the WD40 out, then lubing as I normally would, works really well to keep rust out of the gun after it's been underwater and I can't detail the gun out anytime soon.

I've also found this works after your Glock has been in sea water. Tap water, hotel blow dryer, then lube can also get you by post salt water exposure.Someone actually knows what WD40 actually means! Drives me nuts when people think it is a lubricant.

I love me some Simple Green and a Harbor Freight sonic cleaner prior to a gun inspection/lubrication.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk