Robar NP3+ on Action Parts

[Sauer Koch]

Last Sept we bought my wife a P30SK V1, which I ended up liking a lot, so much so, that I got a standard P30 V1, and it's become my carry gun, replacing my 226 & 229.

I really like the P30, and the LEM trigger is very nice. My reference for a great trigger is my 226 that went to Grayguns, for the full action job and hammer/sear replacement. The results were very nice, and I’d say worthwhile, if you value the smoothest trigger possible.

I've considered sending my P30 to Robar, and having the slide coated in NP3+, and possibly the internals. Mostly for aesthetics, but also for corrosion, considering the climate here in regards to rust.
I just wonder how much the NP3 will lighten the pull weight, simply due to the slick nature of the finish? I don't mind the pull weight, or any aspect of my trigger, it's great as is, so I just wanted to ask for your thoughts on this, for those that have guns with NP3 on the action parts.

Also, with the LEM, have any of you sent them to GGI/LW/Robar for action jobs, with or without NP3, did you feel that the improvement was worth the time & money? Aside from shortening the reset, was there a big improvement with how smooth it was pulling through the wall?


Thanks

[David S.]

I have a P30Sk that’s done up by Rick at Lazy Wolf. Let me know if you find yourself up in Dallas any time soon and you can put some time on it. I can’t remember what coating he uses, but it’s probably similar.

I’m not sure how much is his work and how much is the coating but the trigger is VERY NICE.

[Cecil Burch]

i just dropped off a full size PX4 at Robar yesterday for a Norton Special (NP3 on all metal parts) and another mag as well (I have about 5 similarly coated). Eventually, all my regular use guns will have NP3 applied. I am a believer.

Having said that, I don't think the coating lightens the pull at all. It makes it noticeably smoother, which may give the perception of a lighter pull, but I don't think the weight is affected. When it comes to the feel of the trigger, I absolutely feel like NP3 is worthwhile. it is a phenomenal coating and very protective, and it is worth the time and money for just that, so the smoother pull is a nice bonus.

One thing I am fully on board with is that from now on, all of my carry mags for any pistol (outside of, ugh, if I ever carry a Glock - god forbid) will be NP3ed. It is amazing how smooth and easy to use they are, and they practically come out of the gun like an F15 ejection seat.

[HopetonBrown]

I would skip having your slide NP3d. Trying to grasp your slide is like trying grasp a Teflon coated skillet.

Years ago I sent a Glock in to have the frame textured, and for $60 or something I figured I'd have the slide internals NP3d as Randy Lee of Apex Tactical said he polished his striker where the spring cups touched, so I figured it'd be like the same thing. Got it back from Robar and they musta screwed up the work order because they did the slide internals *and* the slide exterior.

[Sauer Koch]

I would skip having your slide NP3d. Trying to grasp your slide is like trying grasp a Teflon coated skillet.

This was something I was wondering about. I have one of the Sig M11 A-1's with factory FDE Cerekote, and it has an interesting feel to it. It's not slippery, but it's just very smooth, and I don't mind it. Granted, I've never ran it through a full day, or two day outdoor course in the heat either, which I could see being an issue when it comes to needing to slingshot the slide. The only other finish I have experience with is Black T. John Harrison did some work on my DW A2 and it had to be refinished, so he sent it to Birdsong. It's somewhat like the cerekote, as you can definitely feel the Teflon aspect. My CS suck, they were poorly cut, so the slick finish makes it a bit interesting to grab onto.

Having big hands, I've always gravitated to using the slide release lever, as opposed to grabbing the slide, although I'll grab it occasionally; that being said, maybe the slickness wouldn't bother me? The CS on my HK are pretty grippy, so that may save me...?

Cecil Burch how do you feel about the finish on the slide, when you grab the serrations, does the NP3 make it difficult to obtain a grip?

[HopetonBrown]

In terms of slipperiness, cerakote is nothing like NP3.

Yeah, I release the slide using the slide stop, but you gotta initially load the gun by grasping the slide, as well as when you press check, clear malfunctions and unload and show clear.

I'd have Robar remove the NP3 and replace it with something less slick, but Defoor zero'd the sights and I'm lazy.

[JAD]

Robar made my LWC full auto by NP3ing the sear.

Fixed it at the range with a stone in three minutes, but it was exciting.

[Sauer Koch]

Robar made my LWC full auto by NP3ing the sear.

Fixed it at the range with a stone in three minutes, but it was exciting.

Wow, that’s pretty crazy! That goes back to my comment/concern about such a slick coating on the hammer & sear causing the pull weight to ‘appear’ lighter...

What about their Roguard finish??

This is the most negative intel I’ve seen on NP3 to date, but this is what I want to know, the truth, so I’m now having second thoughts....but, I hope to see a few more responses from others, and go from there.

Thanks.

[Cecil Burch]

I have seen people complain about slippery slides with NP3, but it has not been a problem for me.

[JAD]

I did not think the unintended feature enhancement was a big deal. He did a trigger job with the coating and a bunch of other work, all of which was good. I think the trigger job was probably done before the coating. Also note that this was 1998.

I would unhesitatingly put NP3 on any gun I owned. I have several that need done, eventually.

The slickness of the slide was never an issue, and I ran that gun in some rainy, muddy classes before making it a groomsman’s gift. It is the best gun I’ve owned.

[Medusa]

I have two Langdon Berettas with np3 (elite LTT and a Px4CC) on the internals and mags, with one more LTT on order. I’m a fan. Comparing my Px4CCs with np3 and without reveals, as others have said, more an increased smoothness than anything, though I haven’t scientifically measured the pull of the two. For me, the np3 is about protection and durability.

Based on how the np3 mags feel and how I manipulate the slides on these weapons, I don’t feel like I’d hesitate all that much to np3 a slide, other than for cost reasons when cerakote is less expensive and also seems durable. But if I ever try it I’ll do it on my nightstand 92 first, rather than one that gets fired in rainy matches.

[farscott]

Count me as an experienced user and advocate of NP3 on action parts. My experience goes back to the middle 1990s, when I had a Weigand Combat SP-101 go to Robar for NP3. Since then I have had Robar do 1911-pattern pistols, Glock pistols, Beretta pistols, HK P7M8 pistols, and Volquartsen (Ruger Standard) uppers and bolts. NP3 does not decrease or increase the action weight; it is just lube that protects the metal. The gun can be run with no additional lube but I often add Remington's DriLube. I find it extremely useful when the gun is being used in dusty or sandy area as wet lube tends to capture dust and sand.

I have had slide manipulation issues with NP3 when my hands were wet. The PTFE that makes the coating act as lube also makes it quite slippery when wet, especially in the absence of a traction treatment or with a compromised grip.

That being said, I have not tried the coating on a P30. I find that whatever HK uses seems to be pretty tough and can be lubed with DriLube.

[beenalongtime]

I have two Langdon Berettas with np3 (elite LTT and a Px4CC) on the internals and mags, with one more LTT on order. I’m a fan. Comparing my Px4CCs with np3 and without reveals, as others have said, more an increased smoothness than anything, though I haven’t scientifically measured the pull of the two. For me, the np3 is about protection and durability.

Based on how the np3 mags feel and how I manipulate the slides on these weapons, I don’t feel like I’d hesitate all that much to np3 a slide, other than for cost reasons when cerakote is less expensive and also seems durable. But if I ever try it I’ll do it on my nightstand 92 first, rather than one that gets fired in rainy matches.

I have a TJIAB, that has NP3 on it, as well as two LTT Elites with the trigger jobs. The NP3 does feels smoother.

Also have done CPII (nickle boron instead of nickle teflon) on several PX4's (although most have EL's NP3 bobbed hammer). On one PX4 I had the slide done in Dusk (black nickle boron), to see both how I would like it and hoped it would make cleaning easier (range gun/experiment). The internals are CPII covered factory, with the polishing done based on what was shown on the Beretta forum and comparing it to LTT TJIAB for the PX4. It is easier to clean. For a couple reasons, I sent in a stainless PX4. The one that would make a bigger difference in this conversation is the way the slides are cut. On the standard PX4, the serrations have more of a point, on the stainless, they are flat (easier to grab).

There are various reasons that I picked CPII over NP3 in most cases:
Sales/price (in which case I waited a bit longer then what I sent to Robar)
My amount of use, verses someone in law enforcement (they need both the advantage and speed, rather then someone whose option is to go from danger rather then towards it).
And in the one case, color. I would like to at some point, refinish my black, .40 PX4, but I would only coat the internals in the slide, rather then the whole slide with Dusk or CPII, BECAUSE of the serrations.

[Sauer Koch]

I did not think the unintended feature enhancement was a big deal. He did a trigger job with the coating and a bunch of other work, all of which was good. I think the trigger job was probably done before the coating. Also note that this was 1998.

I would unhesitatingly put NP3 on any gun I owned. I have several that need done, eventually.

The slickness of the slide was never an issue, and I ran that gun in some rainy, muddy classes before making it a groomsman’s gift. It is the best gun I’ve owned.

Ok, but your comment about your trigger going full auto didn't seem very positive, and rightfully so; I took it that since you removed the finish from your hammer & sear, that you would not recommend it?

[JAD]

Ok, but your comment about your trigger going full auto didn't seem very positive, and rightfully so; I took it that since you removed the finish from your trigger parts, that you would not recommend it?

It was not a big deal. If and when I send another gun in, I will surely have the fire control parts done, because it makes them much easier to clean and makes them work better together in most ways. That sear was just too narrow, post-modification, for that degree of friction.

[Sauer Koch]

Thanks for the responses. A few negative ones, but a few positive ones...this is all just research, so once I feel I've seen enough, I can make a decision on whether I want to do this.

They also have Roguard & Poly T-2, but I've heard very little about them, so I'm not sure if they would be any less 'slippery'?

[Sauer Koch]

It was not a big deal. If and when I send another gun in, I will surely have the fire control parts done, because it makes them much easier to clean and makes them work better together in most ways. That sear was just too narrow, post-modification, for that degree of friction.

Thanks for that detailed clarification, much appreciated.

[UNM1136]

One of my mentors had a Sig 220 done...before a week at Gunsite. 1200 rounds on the pistol (this was late 1900s) and it was cleaned by a wet paper towel and just wiped off. Call me a Beliver...

pat

[Exiledviking]

Anyone have any recommendations for which parts to NP3 in a HK LEM/Match kit for my HK .45 Expert?

[SAWBONES]

I bought a Colt Gunsite CCO 14 years ago, and had every part but the barrel, sights and trigger coated with NP3 at Robar within a month of purchase, and it has always run perfectly. It was my daily CCW for almost 10 years.

The gripframe is a bit on the "slick" side, but I've never had a problem gripping the slide, and the NP3 coating wears extremely well; no cracking, peeling, chipping or discoloration at all.

Nowadays I want as much friction on the gripframe as reasonably possible, and in a lighter gun, so the CCO doesn't get carried much, having been displaced by a G26.5, and I have no experience with NP3+, but NP3 is durable, needs little lubrication and cleans up easily.

[JTQ]

I ran across this on 1911Forum ...

https://forums.1911forum.com/showthread.php?t=998518

Well, I just got off the phone with Robar. They confirm that they have suspended all firearms customization and refinishing work. Reason given was that they have not been able to keep up with the gunsmithing workload, and the refinishing side of the business (I specifically asked about NP3) was no longer cost effective for them.

[farscott]

Yup, it looks like Robar is exiting the retail firearm smithing and finishing business. Robar's website says,


***We are not accepting Firearms for Custom Gunsmith Work, Repairs ,or Metal Finish at this time. Please check back with us beginning of next month. Contact us via email at info@robarguns.com prior to shipping any parts or firearms.***

https://robarguns.com/order-forms-2/

[Exiledviking]

Dang! I've got a couple of projects in mind for NP3. I hope they resume metal refinishing at some point.

[JTQ]

I wonder if this will affect the Langdon Beretta projects?

[Sauer Koch]

...seems like a temporary issue, based on what they said.

[farscott]

Here is the Robar letter. It says "scale back", not "closing", but it mentions some projects will not be completed.

[Sauer Koch]

Hopefully they will release something official, and clarify what services will, and will not, be available, if any. But, the fact that they’re sending guns back that are not done is a clear sign of them closing, IMO. (?)

And no mention of where to go for NP3-like coatings...I was seriously considering sending them my P30 to have NP3+ put on the slide and small parts...this blows! :mad:

[willie]

Reading between the lines tells me that this part of the business was losing money. The terrible market condition in the gun industry affects all areas. Or new buyers may plan to acquire the company and choose not to engage in this part of it.

[Greg]

Didn’t Robbie Barkman keep the industrial/military side of the business?

I thought Freddie Blish bought the firearms portion.

It sucks if they stop refinishing firearms.

[Sigfan26]

Didn’t Robbie Barkman keep the industrial/military side of the business?

I thought Freddie Blish bought the firearms portion.

It sucks if they stop refinishing firearms.

Robbie kept the finishing business. Having used him for finishing at my last employer, I will say this: You need to do volume to keep prices down (finishing prices are super reasonable. But, prep prices are batch). Think 100+ pieces at a time. The number of gunsmithing shops that can do that is small.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[fpnunes]

I wonder if this will affect the Langdon Beretta projects?

Ugh, I am wondering the same thing as well. I really wanted to order a Mod 5 PX4CC. Sounds like that won’t be possible for now.

[Paul D]

This is a shame about Robar. Robbie gave me a tour one day and they had a ton of Apache helicopter parts getting NP3'd. Honeywell who makes the Apache is headquartered in Phoenix and has a big plant a few blocks away. I hope this part of their business is still going strong.

[Sauer Koch]

The other two companies I've been looking into are Cummings Custom Refinishing, and WMD Guns.

CCR has CPII, which is EN Boron Nitride, and WMD has NiB-X, and also a EN (Electroless Nickel) w/Teflon, but say that the NiB-X is superior.

Does anyone have any experience with EN Boron, enough to recommend it? I've heard of Cummings before, but haven't heard anything about their reputation, just doing some research.
beenalongtime

[beenalongtime]

The other two companies I've been looking into are Cummings Custom Refinishing, and WMD Guns.

CCR has CPII, which is EN Boron Nitride, and WMD has NiB-X, and also a EN (Electroless Nickel) w/Teflon, but say that the NiB-X is superior.

Does anyone have any experience with EN Boron, enough to recommend it? I've heard of Cummings before, but haven't heard anything about their reputation, just doing some research.
beenalongtime


I have had the barrels, locking blocks, and magazines done on most of my PX4's. One one, after watching one of EL's videos, where I saw his fire control group was not the competition one but coated, and after reading both another member (of this and the Beretta forum) and the instructions on trigger polishing, I had the TCG coated in my range PX4.
My preference is for the CPII over the competition group and I am thinking of sending in the one for my subcompact PX4.

On several of them, I have both NP3 parts, and CPII parts (EL's bobbed hammers, and on one, his reduced ambi slide stops). From a NON LEO use standpoint, I can't tell the difference for my needs. Look wise, I think the NP3 polished up to look more like polished stainless or chrome, where the CPII looks more like matte stainless. (neither matches exactly, the my Inox slide), if that makes any difference. I have read where NP3, eventually gets a more gold tone, which is why on my Inox 92, I had the G levers NP3'd as the other parts on the gun (factory parts) have an NP3 coating, and uniformity was a want, there.

CPII verses Dusk,
I wanted a durable pistol as possible, and from feel, my Inox PX4, feels a bit lighter and smoother, then the Bruniton one (different caliber, so ease of ID was also a factor/emergency grab situation). So I found a factory demo'd Inox, that I had coated in Dusk (darker cuts glare against glasses), and that is my range pistol. I had the barrel, locking block, tcg, trigger bar, pins, low profile decockers, and magazines done in CPII. I had the slide, new G levers and EL black bobbed hammer (at one point different from factory one) done in dusk. I also sent in my (ground on my Tormek) ambi low profile slide levers to be done in the bruniton matching black (don't remember which it was). I see more wear on the finish of the Dusk, verses either the factory finish, or on CPII or NP3 parts (scratch on the slide, finish wearing off the hammer). The ambi slide levers are getting wear, around the trigger opening, from the holster (but the holster was designed for wider levers, so none on the outside of the lever part). Not a big enough sample size, just personal opinion is CPII and NP3 seem a bit thicker/more durable then Dusk.

https://berettaforum.net/vb/showpost.php?p=1375362&postcount=7019

https://berettaforum.net/vb/showpost.php?p=1322385&postcount=6623

[Up1911Fan]

I've used CPII and was pleased. Will probably be going that route for a few guns interals I'd planned on sending to Robar.

[OlongJohnson]

I have one of the Sig M11 A-1's with...

Does yours have the nickel sear? I seem to think you've had other Sigs. How does the smoothness of this one compare to others?


Robar made my LWC full auto by NP3ing the sear.

Fixed it at the range with a stone in three minutes, but it was exciting.

Interesting. Robar has specifically said they wouldn't apply NP3 to certain sensitive SA sear/hammer combos, such as 1911s and classic Sigs.

---

Just for where I'm going... My M11-A1 has the nickel sear and has broken in to have a ridiculously nice trigger. My other Sigs are good, but feel like there's something wrong with them when compared to the M11-A1.

So I'm thinking about picking one and sending sear, hammer and hammer strut to wmdguns.com for NiB. There sure seem to be a lot of AR triggers around in NiB without problems, as well as Glock stuff. Anyone have experience with NiB on just action parts on a hammer-fired pistol?

BTW, I don't intend to run it dry. To me, the debate about whether NiB or NP3 is better when run dry is kinda silly; add a good oil to both and then see what happens. My plan is smooth and deburr + NiB + polish + a good oil; basically run the same program I run without NiB.

[Sauer Koch]

I've used CPII and was pleased. Will probably be going that route for a few guns interals I'd planned on sending to Robar.

Good to hear, thanks.

[Sauer Koch]

Does yours have the nickel sear? I seem to think you've had other Sigs. How does the smoothness of this one compare to others?



Interesting. Robar has specifically said they wouldn't apply NP3 to certain sensitive SA sear/hammer combos, such as 1911s and classic Sigs.

---

Just for where I'm going... My M11-A1 has the nickel sear and has broken in to have a ridiculously nice trigger. My other Sigs are good, but feel like there's something wrong with them when compared to the M11-A1.

So I'm thinking about picking one and sending sear, hammer and hammer strut to wmdguns.com for NiB. There sure seem to be a lot of AR triggers around in NiB without problems, as well as Glock stuff. Anyone have experience with NiB on just action parts on a hammer-fired pistol?

BTW, I don't intend to run it dry. To me, the debate about whether NiB or NP3 is better when run dry is kinda silly; add a good oil to both and then see what happens. My plan is smooth and deburr + NiB + polish + a good oil; basically run the same program I run without NiB.

Nickel sear?? I've never heard of that on a Sig. Maybe you're thinking of my 226 that went to Grayguns, where they replaced my hammer & sear with their tool steel kit, and did a full in house action job?? It's super smooth now, with a DA pull of 9# and a single of 4#. In SA mode, it easily rivals a quality 1911 trigger job.

Both of our M11 A-1's went back to Sig for the AEP, since they were VERY gritty & heavy, due to the phosphate coating on the internal parts. The AEP was well worth it, IMO. Some say, just shoot 1-2k rounds through it, and you'll get the same result; that may be true, but I didn't want to wait.

[Sauer Koch]

I have had the barrels, locking blocks, and magazines done on most of my PX4's. One one, after watching one of EL's videos, where I saw his fire control group was not the competition one but coated, and after reading both another member (of this and the Beretta forum) and the instructions on trigger polishing, I had the TCG coated in my range PX4.
My preference is for the CPII over the competition group and I am thinking of sending in the one for my subcompact PX4.

On several of them, I have both NP3 parts, and CPII parts (EL's bobbed hammers, and on one, his reduced ambi slide stops). From a NON LEO use standpoint, I can't tell the difference for my needs. Look wise, I think the NP3 polished up to look more like polished stainless or chrome, where the CPII looks more like matte stainless. (neither matches exactly, the my Inox slide), if that makes any difference. I have read where NP3, eventually gets a more gold tone, which is why on my Inox 92, I had the G levers NP3'd as the other parts on the gun (factory parts) have an NP3 coating, and uniformity was a want, there.

CPII verses Dusk,
I wanted a durable pistol as possible, and from feel, my Inox PX4, feels a bit lighter and smoother, then the Bruniton one (different caliber, so ease of ID was also a factor/emergency grab situation). So I found a factory demo'd Inox, that I had coated in Dusk (darker cuts glare against glasses), and that is my range pistol. I had the barrel, locking block, tcg, trigger bar, pins, low profile decockers, and magazines done in CPII. I had the slide, new G levers and EL black bobbed hammer (at one point different from factory one) done in dusk. I also sent in my (ground on my Tormek) ambi low profile slide levers to be done in the bruniton matching black (don't remember which it was). I see more wear on the finish of the Dusk, verses either the factory finish, or on CPII or NP3 parts (scratch on the slide, finish wearing off the hammer). The ambi slide levers are getting wear, around the trigger opening, from the holster (but the holster was designed for wider levers, so none on the outside of the lever part). Not a big enough sample size, just personal opinion is CPII and NP3 seem a bit thicker/more durable then Dusk.

https://berettaforum.net/vb/showpost.php?p=1375362&postcount=7019

https://berettaforum.net/vb/showpost.php?p=1322385&postcount=6623

Thanks for the info. I think I'd prefer the matte appearance of the CPII, to a more polished look.

At this point, my question is more about Nickel Boron Nitride, which is what CCR told me the CPII was. On WMD's site, they have both EN Teflon, and EN Boron. My only frame of reference is that NP3+ was EN Teflon, and was considered the gold standard, but WMD says their NiB-X (Nickel Boron) is better than their Teflon.

Any thoughts on this?

[beenalongtime]

Thanks for the info. I think I'd prefer the matte appearance of the CPII, to a more polished look.

At this point, my question is more about Nickel Boron Nitride, which is what CCR told me the CPII was. On WMD's site, they have both EN Teflon, and EN Boron. My only frame of reference is that NP3+ was EN Teflon, and was considered the gold standard BY THEM, but WMD says their NiB-X (Nickel Boron) is better than their Teflon.

Any thoughts on this?


CPII and Dusk are both Nickle Boron. Dusk is just blackened, which I think makes it a bit thinner of a coating based on my one sample.
I can only tell my CPII magazines, from my NP3 Robar/EL magazines, by the cut/curve that EL made to them. If I was a LEO or shot something like Langdon's 50K a year (a guy can dream of that budget, right?), I personally would probably want the teflon, for any possible lubrication advantage, as I expect I would see wear on both at that rate.
As someone who isn't going to shoot anywhere close to that, has a separate training gun, and expect better protection from wear, verses amount of use, I choose Nickle Boron.
I view it less as one better then the other, and just different objectives (51 to 49%, verses 49 TO 51%), but both achieve them to a certain extent.

Now CCR has on their website, prices for a undescribed finish: Electroless Nickel. What is it, I don't know, but I see that used to describe elsewhere on the web both Nickel Boron and Nickel Teflon. You might ask them if that interests you.

As to the companies, I have seen different ones, recommended, used, by different forums. I view it as Penzoil to Quaker State. Both have similar products, with slightly different additives and that is personal preference/experience.

Happy with my choices and I hope this helps.

[PearTree]

CCR is a forum member here, maybe they can chime in? CCR Refinishing.

[guymontag]

I have an email in to WMD guns re: their offering of EN with PTFE as I’d prefer that finish due to the esteemed lubricity and history of the product. If not that, I’ll get the NiBX and report back in a few weeks, hopefully they respond quickly to emails, will be a good first sign. Gun will be a P09 and maybe the P07 too.

[guymontag]

Received an automated reply from WMD, they are closed due to the hurricane. I’ll likely buy some Superlube with PTFE and try that on one of the CZ’s for now...

[beenalongtime]

Received an automated reply from WMD, they are closed due to the hurricane. I’ll likely buy some Superlube with PTFE and try that on one of the CZ’s for now...


I use that on one of mine, and on several others, I went with TW25 (found a couple deals on it, once). I think that with the CPII, for my purposes, is the best of both worlds. I just prefer the TW25, as it is a bit thinner, with a better temperature range.

[Sauer Koch]

Update: I emailed CTI about the possibility of having NP3 applied to parts in the future, and this was the reply I got:
42912

[guymontag]

Update: I emailed CTI about the possibility of having NP3 applied to parts in the future, and this was the reply I got:
42912

More promising than the message I received from them, they suggested I reach out to JoJo’s which I did with no response. WMD has not gotten back to me likely due to the hurricane and another outfit I emailed did not email me back. We shall see.

[nycnoob]

I do not have a dog in this fight, but on the other Robar thread SteveB says he has used Slick Shot a competing NP3 product. I think there are other NP3 like products we could use. I found this on the web



https://pistol-forum.com/showthread.php?38298-Robar-Closing&p=923097&viewfull=1#post923097



I think this is the company that they use. There are lots of coatings that they have which could be interesting.

http://nutmegchrome.com/page/slik-shot-electroless-plated-coating

Slik Shot®, a high-end finish offered exclusively by Nutmeg Chrome, wears better and lasts longer than standard Nickel Teflon® coatings.


Nutmeg's Slik Shot® process is an electroless-plated coating of a nickel phosphorus alloy with Teflon® particles evenly dispersed throughout the coating, offering optimum performance. With Teflon® particles included as an integral part of the plating deposit, corrosion resistance and wearability are greatly enhanced.

[Sauer Koch]

I saw today where Cajun Gun Works was asking people on Facebook if they'd be game for NP3 work, so CTI must be trying to get them on board. I'm sure someone will, it'll just take some time. I'd hope to see both Grayguns and Lazy Wolf become approved vendors, due to their smithing expertise with Sig & HK

[Sauer Koch]

FYI, according to Coating Technologies, the following shops will now be offering access to NP3/+ and Armorlube:

Wright Armory - AZ
Cajun Gun Works - LA
Cylinder & Slide - NE
Vang Comp - CA?
Amerigun USA - MI?

[LtDave]

FYI, according to Coating Technologies, the following shops will now be offering access to NP3/+ and Armorlube:

Wright Armory - AZ
Cajun Gun Works - LA
Cylinder & Slide - NE
Vang Comp - CA?
Amerigun USA - MI?


Just got an email from Wright Armory that they are now accepting orders for NP3 and NP3+ finishes.
Vang Comp is in AZ.

[Sauer Koch]

Me too. CGW will only accept CZ pistols, so it’s a bit different from the other dealers. Ironically, I just found rust on my P30, and my wife’s SK, so I’m trying to decide which one will go first.