Lubriplate 130-a

[BangBang]

https://amzn.to/2ZpZT3F

Doing a search I didn’t see what I was looking for, I may have overlooked it. I know this is what was used in the military back in the day, well close to it but I was wanting to try using grease on my AR’s and pistols but what has me scratching my head os the flash point/temperature range of it which I think is 200 degrees???

I’m curious if anyone has/had used this on AR’s or pistols without any problems or would see any issues using this. I know that Slip2000 and Slide Glide amongst other products out there are, according to the reviews are good stuff but really liking what I am reading about this. Thanks for any information and help. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190616/2ac2f83fc485d3ee7293188e729944b5.jpg

[willie]

I use it on everything but bread. Flash point is 400 degrees F. All the greases like synthetic wheel bearing grease at auto parts stores have also worked for me. However, if I were an internet gun expert, I would be a shill for Slip 2000 products which I favor when I'm not applying lubriplate products. Sometimes I use snake oil:D.

[Thy.Will.Be.Done]

This is what you are after, I just found this stuff and it seems perfect to me... food grade to boot so relatively non toxic (though it is an aluminum base which is toxic).

https://amzn.to/2LDqSpW

[JBP55]

I use it on everything but bread. Flash point is 400 degrees F. All the greases like synthetic wheel bearing grease at auto parts stores have also worked for me. However, if I were an internet gun expert, I would be a shill for Slip 2000 products which I favor when I'm not applying lubriplate products. Sometimes I use snake oil:D.

I have used Lubriplate and it worked well. I am currently using Slip 2000 EWG (https://amzn.to/2U3kZDV).

[Greg]

I have 2-3 unopened metal cans of the Lubriplate 130-A.

I use it on Garands and my Fulton M-14. I suspect a synthetic grease like Mobil 1 would be fine too, but I’m a lube agnostic.

[JAH 3rd]

I too roam the internet looking for opinions on various lubes and such. Here is a link for an informative page.

https://www.grantcunningham.com/2006/05/lubrication-101/

[TGS]

I think (AKA: my feels) Lubriplate 130a is great for bolt actions and piston driven guns where there's not much heat in what you're lubricating (M14, SKS, etc). Decades of service are evidence to that.

DI rifles, not so much.

Maybe Aray can shed some light.

[Aray]

I don't think grease is an optimum solution to most firearm lubrication problems.

[JBP55]

I don't think grease is an optimum solution to most firearm lubrication problems.

I use oil and light grease but in my 60 years of shooting have never had a firearm lubrication problem.

[Sauer Koch]

I've got the FMO AW-350 spray oil (20wt) recommended by Grant. I bought the stuff you see in the pic, and I've been very happy with it. As willie said above, aside from this stuff, I like Slip 2000 EWL-30 & EWG the best. *the Clear Plex grease was a freebee, since they ran out of the SFL-1 (stopped making it).

39288

[Aray]

I use oil and light grease but in my 60 years of shooting have never had a firearm lubrication problem.

Most guns, aside from AR-15s and the like are extremely easy lubrication problems to solve. DI guns like ARs are still not difficult to deal with, they just require a little more attention.

In my career as a lubrication professional, I’ve never been convinced grease is better for guns.


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[sparkyv]

Respectfully Aray, my SIGs like the wet treatment. I've use Lubriplate lithium grease, but have switched to the HF molybdenum grease; cheep and works well. My handguns are mainly for SD and the range, not for military or tactical use, so these work for my application. :cool:

[Aray]

Respectfully Aray, my SIGs like the wet treatment. I've use Lubriplate lithium grease, but have switched to the HF molybdenum grease; cheep and works well. My handguns are mainly for SD and the range, not for military or tactical use, so these work for my application. :cool:

To be clear, my position isn't that grease won't work, it often does just fine. It's just not "better".

[Trigger]

Most guns, aside from AR-15s and the like are extremely easy lubrication problems to solve. DI guns like ARs are still not difficult to deal with, they just require a little more attention.

In my career as a lubrication professional, I’ve never been convinced grease is better for guns.


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If your current position allows it, could you lend us your recommendations on your favorite techniques and products for lubricating a bolt action rifle, a metal semi-auto pistol and an AR-15? Thanks!

[spinmove_]

If your current position allows it, could you lend us your recommendations on your favorite techniques and products for lubricating a bolt action rifle, a metal semi-auto pistol and an AR-15? Thanks!

Also curious. If not specific products then maybe some hints? I get that guns aren’t horribly difficult lubrication problems to solve, but your responses are a bit cryptic.

Oils are great at hitting all the crevasses, but doesn’t stay put all that well. Grease stays put pretty well, but also keeps other things from getting out of the way (dirt, grit, etc). So would I be correct in assuming your “grease is fine, but not better” to mean “neither grease or oil is better than the other, just different”? Are there specific uses for both?


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[Aray]

Also curious. If not specific products then maybe some hints? I get that guns aren’t horribly difficult lubrication problems to solve, but your responses are a bit cryptic.

Oils are great at hitting all the crevasses, but doesn’t stay put all that well. Grease stays put pretty well, but also keeps other things from getting out of the way (dirt, grit, etc). So would I be correct in assuming your “grease is fine, but not better” to mean “neither grease or oil is better than the other, just different”? Are there specific uses for both?


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Oil is preferred over grease in my opinion. Oils usually don’t cause actions to be sluggish in lower temperatures and they don’t capture particulates like grease, which can cause accelerated surface wear and in extremes, slow or seize actions.

As far as lubricating methodology, the goal is to deposit as much lubricant on the metal to metal contact areas as possible without causing undesirable effects. Effects such as getting oil on your clothes when carrying concealed or getting oil on your hands while in use. “Overlubrication” is often discussed, but seldom seen in firearms from a functional standpoint.

Trigger groups/assemblies typically don’t need much (if any) lube, I typically apply lube with the gun upside down, thus minimizing oil in the trigger bits. It’s typically desired to avoid getting lube down the barrel in a precision rifle unintentionally as it can change POI.

Grease was specified in some old military rifles due to washout concerns (rain) because the actions were basically big holes on the top of the rifle and oil didn’t stay very long under wet conditions.

Greases are typically specified in applications where it is difficult to access or add lubricant.

Guns are rarely difficult to lubricate.

Bolt action guns need an oil that will allow operation in their particular environment, I’ve seen safeties on bolt guns freeze in subzero conditions using the gun oils our grandfathers used. They also need to provide sufficient corrosion resistance to protect the metal, bluing is common, but it isn’t a great corrosion inhibitor. Luckily, bolt guns seldom see high volume fire, so temperature resistance isn’t usually all that important.

Pistols are easy, use something that doesn’t turn to sludge (sorry Grandpa), and reapply when it dries out. In high volume use, higher temperature resistance is desired, or just reapply more often.

ARs need a lube with a better temperature resistance than the rest. Keep them wet to keep them running. Applying lube to the bolt (and down the holes) with the dust cover open is usually a field expedient method to reapply.

If you use good synthetic oil in your car, motorcycle, lawnmower, etc, you already have a lube that will work very well under almost all common conditions.

There are also a number of great products that are sold as gun specific products including Slip 2000, Amsoil Gun Lubricant, Sage & Braker CLP, and a myriad of others.

Stay away from any chlorinated lubricants, chloride stress corrosion cracking is a thing, and it can really happen.

If you desire to use a “non toxic” lubricant, get down with your bad self. That’s cool. Just remember that there are a lot of RBT (really bad things) you are breathing while you are shooting and cleaning guns not limited to heavy metals and combustion byproducts even though the lube is advertised as “non toxic”. Wear personal protective equipment and clean guns in a well ventilated area no matter what you choose to put on your guns.

I hope this helps.


I also discussed this on Ballistic Radio if you want to hear me drone on about lubricants toward the end of episode 300.



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[orionz06]

Respectfully Aray, my SIGs like the wet treatment. I've use Lubriplate lithium grease, but have switched to the HF molybdenum grease; cheep and works well. My handguns are mainly for SD and the range, not for military or tactical use, so these work for my application. :cool:

Is there a difference between useage? What issues have you seen using oil?

[sparkyv]

Is there a difference between useage? What issues have you seen using oil?

I've not noticed any performance difference between the lithium grease and the HF molybdenum grease (again, the HF grease is cheaper), but my shooting session lasts no more than 150 rounds max per firearm, and then the firearms gets a cleaning and get re-lubed, so not too tough duty. The grease seems to stay put better than oil, but oil is certainly better than dry! :rolleyes:

[orionz06]

I've not noticed any performance difference between the lithium grease and the HF molybdenum grease (again, the HF grease is cheaper), but my shooting session lasts no more than 150 rounds max per firearm, and then the firearms gets a cleaning and get re-lubed, so not too tough duty. The grease seems to stay put better than oil, but oil is certainly better than dry! :rolleyes:

How is the performance with oil, any tangible difference?

[OlongJohnson]

I have SLF-O and load it into non-hypodermic syringes for precise application. Also keep an old small artist's paint brush for distributing it in a thin layer exactly where I want it:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Y8230G/


I use these for all my oils. Lets you get just enough, exactly where you want it, even down inside the frame. It's a 10 pack so you can share with your friends, or have every lube have one. Or have duplicate sets in the garage and inside the house. Or all of the above.

Couple different sizes:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H6OY6SU/

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NOLPFOS/

I'm generally moving toward oils. I find it much easier to pull the slide, hit the rails with a cotton swab and put a few drops of oil on them before putting it back together. Only takes a minute or two and gives me a chance to put my eyes on stuff and see if there's anything weird developing.

[RevolverRob]

Like I've said before I tend to use silicone spray/oil for the vast majority of my lubrication needs. Though I do tend to opt for a thin layer of grease on frame rails, simply because I am lazy.

[sparkyv]

How is the performance with oil, any tangible difference?

Can't say I've noticed.

[HALO51]

TW25b grease (https://amzn.to/31UvsUO)......you will notice a difference immediately upon application. They also make a 2500 oil & 3000 oil same ingredients but thicker. IMHO best lubricant ever made. Use it on belt feds for years, does not burn off and action on pistols, even Glocks is like the slide is on ball bearings