Advice for 92FS SA trigger staging

[ArgentFix]

At ~7000 rounds, the SA pull on my 92FS developed an occasional weird staging. It feels like there's a wall, then a tiny "dry friction patch" then another wall where it actually breaks. The hammer does move a little in this dry patch. Is this common? I removed the trigger bar and cleaned the area, but I'm guessing I need to clean the other side of where this hook contacts when the hammer is back:

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(That's not rust on the bushing, it's the lighting). What is this contact point called and how do I get to it? And what else should I clean and lube while I'm in here? I'm already out of my depth but appreciate any tips.

[fixer]

I had this problem on my high round count/ dry fire gun. The area you circled seemed to be the culprit. So the only thing I did was start lubricating that area during cleaning and maintenance and haven't had the issue since.

[willie]

For this issue look at the linkage. Apply slight pressure to the trigger bar, pull trigger, and observe. Too, after market grips can interfere with trigger bar. Rubber grips were big offenders. Unless hammer/sear contact area has become worn or plating in this area is flaking, my bet is on the linkage.

[Duke]

You have about a $1k worth of ammo down the tube.

Why not buy a $24 hammer and or a $60 Wilson trigger bar and roll on?

Speculation sucks.

[JonInWA]

Get the Wilson Combat triggerbar.

Best, Jon

[ArgentFix]

Rubber grips were big offenders.

It was indeed wearing Hogues. No longer.

[willie]

This past week at my lgs someone traded in a B92 that had been issued by a p.d. It too was wearing Hogue rubber grips. I noticed two events. One was that the right grip allowed no clearance for the trigger bar. The other was that trigger return was sluggish. I asked to use an Allen wrench and slightly loosened the grip screws. Immediately the trigger lost its sluggish return. I pointed out that I did not repair the pistol and that the Hogue grips should be discarded.

[CraigS]

That hook on the hammer is actually the hook that the trigger bar contacts in a DA shot. The SA parts are the hammer at a different part, the sear, and trigger bar.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48036882488_0556e74362_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2gbRzzS)Hammer hooks (https://flic.kr/p/2gbRzzS) by craig stuard (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152454123@N04/), on Flickr
I am not sure how far you are comfortable w/ disassembling your 92 so I will list what I would lube w/ a drop here and there.
The trigger pivot pin-looking down from the top of the frame a drop or two on either side of the trigger
The trigger bar where it fits into the trigger
The hammer pin-pull hammer back til it stays and a couple drops on either side.
The sear-I oil the pin and put some grease where it contacts the hammer SA hook. If you don't take the sear out, you can get some oil to drop into the hammer SA hook by dropping oil on the hammer all the way inside the gun while it is locked back. Hold the hammer while you pull the trigger so it doesn't slam into the frame and move the hammer back and forth several cycles to get that oil to drop into where it needs to go. Even better would be to watch this video and do all he goes over.
https://youtu.be/BUrCDX9WF_I
Good luck

[ArgentFix]

Good luck

Many thanks, CraigS that was an extremely helpful and informative write-up. I removed the sear and cleaned it, the underside of the hammer and the trigger bar, especially at the contact points you and others mentioned. I then lubed these and other relevant points and reassembled the frame. No springs shot across the room at any point.

Unfortunately this didn't fix the problem. Shooting 300 rounds today I paid close attention and noticed this SA "hitch" does indeed cause flyers, or at least outliers, so I definitely want to fix it. It still only happens maybe 10-20% of the time, and seemingly only after the gun is heated up.

I think at this point I'll have my smith completely disassemble the gun, clean, inspect, lube everything and reassemble. It's never had a full detail cleaning anyway. At the same time maybe replace any small parts or springs as general preventative maintenance? Recommendations here?

If that doesn't work I'll do the replacements mentioned in this thread. The Wilson kits seem popular, but I've learned to stay stock until I'm certain what and why I need to replace :)

[StraitR]

It's been a few years so I'm unable to recall the exact video or where I saw it, but I believe it was Bill Wilson explaining a way to remove creep from the SA pull of a Beretta trigger. Basically, you cock the hammer, then using your support hand thumb, apply some forward pressure against the sear, then pull the trigger against that pressure. He said it should only take a few times, otherwise it can't be corrected using this method.

[JSGlock34]

This is a perfect excuse for the Langdon Trigger Job in a Bag (https://www.langdontactical.com/trigger-job-in-a-bag-beretta-92-series/).

[ArgentFix]

Why not buy a $24 hammer and or a $60 Wilson trigger bar and roll on?


Get the Wilson Combat triggerbar.


This is a perfect excuse for the Langdon Trigger Job in a Bag.

Literally everyone in this thread has more experience shooting and knowledge of Berettas than me, so I ask in honest deference. Why replace parts before I know what the problem is?

[JonInWA]

Literally everyone in this thread has more experience shooting and knowledge of Berettas than me, so I ask in honest deference. Why replace parts before I know what the problem is?

Because what you're describing is symptomatic of wearing through the surface hardening on the rear pad of the triggerbar, inducing the hitch in the triggerpull. The Wilson Combat component has 1) improved architecture; and 2) thorough hardening; 3) is made of tool steel, versus the cast original. It's an inherently superior component that will provide you with an improved triggerpull, and keep it for longer.

There are some other benefits, too, but I'm just addressing it's applicability to your symptoms.

Best, Jon

[JSGlock34]

Literally everyone in this thread has more experience shooting and knowledge of Berettas than me, so I ask in honest deference. Why replace parts before I know what the problem is?

Perhaps it is symptomatic of the Glock era, but a fair deal of firearm troubleshooting for me involves judicious replacement of parts until the problem is eliminated.

You can also get a lot more than a hammer for $20 for a 92/M9...

BERETTA 92 96 M9 FACTORY PARTS KIT 12 PIECE (https://www.cdnnsports.com/beretta-92-96-m9-factory-parts-kit-12-piece.html?___SID=U#.XP78mS2ZPBI)

I recommended the Langdon Tactical TJIAB because I honestly think it is a game changer in the shootability of the 92 series pistol. It really brings custom 92 work to the masses.

[ArgentFix]

. . . . .

[ArgentFix]

Because what you're describing is symptomatic of wearing through the surface hardening on the rear pad of the triggerbar, inducing the hitch in the triggerpull. The Wilson Combat component has 1) improved architecture; and 2) thorough hardening; 3) is made of tool steel, versus the cast original. It's an inherently superior component that will provide you with an improved triggerpull, and keep it for longer.

Excellent. Thank you very much, Jon.

[ArgentFix]

Today I finally completed a TJIB on this gun, no small feat for my clumsy hands. I chose the LTT trigger bar with NP3. Here's a picture of the old INOX trigger bar with a surprising amount of damage exactly where JonInWA predicted. Thanks again for the advice.

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