gen4 g17 wobble

[Packy]

I recently bought and used a glock oem (-)/ 4.5lbs connector on my G17 4G.
The trigger pull is nice and is as advertised but the trigger break is not crisp/clean because there is a WOBBLE.
The stock connector although 5.5lbs has a steady/clean break. No wobbling when the striker is released.

Is this wobble because the gen4 uses a different ejector/connector HOUSING?

[JHC]

I don't know the reasons but the minus connectors in my experience don't produce the cleanest break in Gen 3's either. But they're lighter and the ratio of trigger pull weight to pistol weight is probably more important. But consider getting yourself a "dot" connector which is now standard in most of the Gen 4's. It's a bit lighter than the 5.5 std and produces a pretty nice pull "quality" wise.

[Packy]

I don't know the reasons but the minus connectors in my experience don't produce the cleanest break in Gen 3's either. But they're lighter and the ratio of trigger pull weight to pistol weight is probably more important. But consider getting yourself a "dot" connector which is now standard in most of the Gen 4's. It's a bit lighter than the 5.5 std and produces a pretty nice pull "quality" wise.

That's my next move too, figuring the dot connector is made for a gen4.. But Brownell has no stocks yet.
Waiting time. Still figuring that wobble.

[JHC]

That's my next move too, figuring the dot connector is made for a gen4.. But Brownell has no stocks yet.
Waiting time. Still figuring that wobble.

If you can swoop into the nearest GSSF match, the Glock armorers there will hook you up. You could get the updated ejector that way too.

[JBP55]

Contact a Glock Armorer in your area and he will get a . connector for your G4 G17.

[Packy]

why is the glock oem minus connector causes wobble when the striker breaks?
what must be done to remove the wobble?

[JHC]

why is the glock oem minus connector causes wobble when the striker breaks?
what must be done to remove the wobble?

I'm not really clear on what this "wobble" of which you speak is. Side to side wobble?

[Packy]

I don't know the reasons but the minus connectors in my experience don't produce the cleanest break in Gen 3's either. But they're lighter and the ratio of trigger pull weight to pistol weight is probably more important. But consider getting yourself a "dot" connector which is now standard in most of the Gen 4's. It's a bit lighter than the 5.5 std and produces a pretty nice pull "quality" wise.


the cleanest break possible, no movement/wobble/vibration of the slide whenever the striker is released

[Magsz]

the cleanest break possible, no movement/wobble/vibration of the slide whenever the striker is released

YOU are the one inducing the wobble, not the connector.

The mechanics of what is going on are as follows:

1. Negative connectors, at least the OEM units move the engagement and break point further forward in the trigger guard, ie towards the muzzle.

2. Generally speaking, negative OEM connectors leave a bit of over travel in the system.

3. When applying improper trigger control technique, it is VERY easy to mash the trigger against the frame disturbing your sights.

4. Removing the over travel via an aftermarket trigger housing with an adjustable over travel stop can negate this but ultimately, someone with excellent trigger control fundamentals can shoot anything.

Good luck.

[JHC]

YOU are the one inducing the wobble, not the connector.

The mechanics of what is going on are as follows:

1. Negative connectors, at least the OEM units move the engagement and break point further forward in the trigger guard, ie towards the muzzle.

2. Generally speaking, negative OEM connectors leave a bit of over travel in the system.

3. When applying improper trigger control technique, it is VERY easy to mash the trigger against the frame disturbing your sights.

4. Removing the over travel via an aftermarket trigger housing with an adjustable over travel stop can negate this but ultimately, someone with excellent trigger control fundamentals can shoot anything.

Good luck.

That is very useful. I did not really understand that moving engagement aspect. That must be why many report the reset being longer on the minus - something I have never really perceived but I don't have the finest senory abilities on trigger feel after the loud noise.

[Packy]

YOU are the one inducing the wobble, not the connector.

The mechanics of what is going on are as follows:

1. Negative connectors, at least the OEM units move the engagement and break point further forward in the trigger guard, ie towards the muzzle.

2. Generally speaking, negative OEM connectors leave a bit of over travel in the system.

3. When applying improper trigger control technique, it is VERY easy to mash the trigger against the frame disturbing your sights.

4. Removing the over travel via an aftermarket trigger housing with an adjustable over travel stop can negate this but ultimately, someone with excellent trigger control fundamentals can shoot anything.

Good luck.

Thanks! so its me and the new trigger housing.

Will a Lonewollf 3.5lbs negative connector will leave a bit of overtravel too like the oem negative connector?

[mizer67]

Thanks! so its me and the new trigger housing.

Will a Lonewollf 3.5lbs negative connector will leave a bit of overtravel too like the oem negative connector?

Yes.

However, if you're so inclined and don't mind introducing another potential failure point in your weapon, you can buy a new trigger housing block with a overtravel screw included from LWD and a few other mfgs.

http://www.lonewolfdist.com/Detail.aspx?PROD=1056&CAT=231

Or you could try the Ghost Rocket 3.5 connector, which comes with a built in overtravel stop which must be filed down to fit.

[Packy]

Jezzzz, thanks all for the reply.

Quess i have to live with the 5.5lbs stock connector for awhile.
ToodG's lonewolf connector just broke.

[iakdrago]

My best advice would be to work on your grip. In my experience hand placement on the grip can drastically change the mechanics of the trigger pull. By simply finding the "proper" grip on the gun for you, you may take away the wobble entirely. I've suffered with this in the past myself. In the end what worked best for me was not to "wrestle with the gun," but hold it "naturally. Grip the gun naturally with your SH and bring it up to where your sights naturally line up. Now add the OSH to your grip--without altering the sight picture. Add in the trigger pull and see if the "wobble" diminishes or disappears.

[Packy]

My best advice would be to work on your grip. In my experience hand placement on the grip can drastically change the mechanics of the trigger pull. By simply finding the "proper" grip on the gun for you, you may take away the wobble entirely. I've suffered with this in the past myself. In the end what worked best for me was not to "wrestle with the gun," but hold it "naturally. Grip the gun naturally with your SH and bring it up to where your sights naturally line up. Now add the OSH to your grip--without altering the sight picture. Add in the trigger pull and see if the "wobble" diminishes or disappears.

Does this mean as if i were shooting a one handed grip ONLY with a support hand involved to stop lateral movement of the

strong arm/hand?

[iakdrago]

Does this mean as if i were shooting a one handed grip ONLY with a support hand involved to stop lateral movement of the

strong arm/hand?

Grip the gun as if you are going to shoot it one handed. Then add the support hand--for me the key was to grip the gun with the support hand and not latterally push it into my strong hand. The lateral force comes from engaghing ur pecstorals and core. I use to try to vice the gun between my two hands which ultimately created un even pressure durring the trigger press, and ulrimately resulted in a jerk.

This was my personal journey with my grip, ymmv. I strongly encourage you to take a class though with an instructor like TLG or Jay--it will save you hundreds if not thousands of dollars worth of ammo and time.

[mstacker@yahoo.com]

Greetings Packy. It's been a while since your original post and I've got a few questions for you.

1) Did you solve the wobble issue and/or any issues directly related such as muzzle wobbling as part of the trigger activation process or occasionally shooting low left assuming a right handed shooter, etc?

2) Please describe the circumstances for the wobble and the details of your training where wobble related issues manifest. For example, for myself, I've found the muzzle wobbles after the trigger breaks on a stock gen 3 glock 19 or 23 particularly one handed unless I hold said weapon very specifically. Also, I generally practice at 5', 3', 7, 10', 15', 25.' I still have a round go low left occasionally. Never eliminated this with the stock glock.

Thanks in advance,

Matt