1911 Grip Safety Improvement

[cclaxton]

I recently shot some close quarters drills and noticed that the grip safety prevented me from pulling the trigger because of the angle of retention shooting. I would never want that to happen again.

What can I do to improve the grip safeties on my 1911's so that any small amount of movement will release the safety? I don't want to use a grip sock for liability reasons.

1911's are: Springfield Range Officer 9mm and 45cal, and Remington R1.
Cody

[JonInWA]

I recently shot some close quarters drills and noticed that the grip safety prevented me from pulling the trigger because of the angle of retention shooting. I would never want that to happen again.

What can I do to improve the grip safeties on my 1911's so that any small amount of movement will release the safety? I don't want to use a grip sock for liability reasons.

1911's are: Springfield Range Officer 9mm and 45cal, and Remington R1.
Cody

The best grip safety that I've found that pretty much is guaranteed to deactivate the safety is the Caspian vertical fin/bump; it was the OEM one spec'ced by Matt MacLearn on the original SIG GSR, and I've found it to be completely successful. Some shooters don't like it for either aesthetic reasons, or because they feel it's a bit uncomfortably for extended carry.

Function trumps aesthetics in most cases for me, particularly in the case of a contemporary 1911 for defensive use. And I don't personally find it to be aesthetically offensive. The comfort issue has never bothered me, as my normal usage is probably measured in in periods of seconds, not continually for hours. They've got a couple of alternative variants, but here's one:

https://www.caspianarms.com/productdisplay/speed-bump-grip-safety-250-radius-stainless

Best, Jon

[Robinson]

The tab at the front of the grip safety can be shaped/filed/stoned so as to adjust the interface between the safety and the trigger bow. I have done this a few times and it requires knowledge of just where to (and where not to) remove material along with some patience. You must go slowly and test often to avoid removing too much metal or the safety will be ruined unless you know how to weld material back on. There is a very fine line between a safety that works just right and one that allows the trigger to be pulled even when not engaged.

I suggest trying the above only if you have a thorough understanding of just how the grip safety interacts with the trigger bow.

[Amp]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uz4_rRH74U0

[Rex G]

This. ^

Good video!

[theJanitor]

relevant portions of the vid are 3:00-6:30. Look at his picture on the whiteboard


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=64C8hKuzNMc

[Rex G]

I recently shot some close quarters drills and noticed that the grip safety prevented me from pulling the trigger because of the angle of retention shooting. I would never want that to happen again.

What can I do to improve the grip safeties on my 1911's so that any small amount of movement will release the safety? I don't want to use a grip sock for liability reasons.

1911's are: Springfield Range Officer 9mm and 45cal, and Remington R1.
Cody

In addition to the excellent discussion by Larry Vickers, in Amp’s link, pay attention to such things as the value of a high-cut front strap/undercut trigger guard, and the way the beavertail-ducktail is sculpted. Some BT/DT designs actually interfere with one’s ability to depress a grip safety.

Holster design is a factor. High-ride rigs, especially those with the once-holy FBI cant, that force the user’s hand and arm into a silly chicken-wing position, interfere with attaining a proper firing grip, especially for short-waisted folks, with skinny hands, such as, well, me. The holster’s retention system can also play a part in interfering with a proper grip. (I will not post anything too specific about a duty holster’s retention system on a publicly-viewable forum.)

I let my “grandfathered” Kimber Classic Customs lapse, and transitioned to Glock G22 duty pistols, in 2002, when the Safariland 070* holster, and the limitations of the Kimbers, was found to be interfering with my ability to attain a proper grip. A very fast draw was likely to result in silence, instead of “bang,” a very disturbing discovery, to say the least**. I later found that my old-school Colt Classic Government, with a GI-pattern 1911A1 grip safety, as well as my Les Baer TRS, with its high-cut front strap and better-for-me BT/DT, would reliably function with the 070, but the deed was done. My 1911 quals had lapsed, so I was stuck with a list of approved Glocks, SIGs, and Smith & Wessons, until 2016, when a change in policy again allowed me to tote a 1911 on duty, in the MUCH better-thought-out Safariland 6360. (The 070 holster was a much better idea for some guns, than others. IMHO, the 070 was much better as a REVOLVER holster.)

*In hindsight, a custom shank, to eliminate the SILLY cant, and lower the holster a bit, might have mitigated the problem.

**My hands had become skinnier, with age, especially as I was constantly trying to manage a case of CTS.

[KevH]

If you had one gun giving you trouble I would say it is the gun.

Three guns giving you trouble look to your grip or how the 1911 platform interacts with your hand.

I run an arched mainspring housing which forces my hand into the correct position to actuate the grip safety perfectly and allows me a nice high grip. Can I shoot a gun with a flat MSH? Yeah, but I find the arched works much better for me.

You can change the sensitivity of the grip safety where it interacts with the trigger bow and where it interacts with the MSH to allow more travel and you can also bend the sear spring prong that interacts with the grip safety forward to make it easier to actuate. Just bear in mind that if you remove too much material or bend the sear spring too much you can cause yourself other issues.

The three guns you describe all come with the modern "memory pad" modification built into the grip safety. My bet is your grip is the issue.

Try evaluating your grip and how you interact with the gun first before trying to modify three pistols.

[theJanitor]

In addition to the excellent discussion by Larry Vickers, in Amp’s link, pay attention to such things as the value of a high-cut front strap/undercut trigger guard, and the way the beavertail-ducktail is sculpted.

Grip safety shape and frontstrap shaping effectively change "grip angle" too. I probably shoot the best with an Ed Brown BTGS, and a non high-cut frontstrap

[gomerpyle]

Ive had issues with engaging the beavertail grip safety on my 1911, and hope the following will be of some help.

there's a nice section on John Harrison's website that offers a nice overview of beavertail grip safeties. there, he describes the three types of BGSs you can find on 1911s: http://www.harrisoncustom.com/FAQ.aspx

All involve varying levels of smithing, so I would consider other possible solutions before working on or changing the BGS on your pistols.

I found that the following factors impacted how my hand/grip actuated the BGS:

technique - I had to train myself to ride the thumb saftey to ensure that my hand was in the right position to activate the grip safety
trigger length - I suspect a good number of 1911s produced today are equipped with a long trigger. perhaps a medium or short trigger might help with positioning your hand so that your grip will activate the BGS.
Grip panels - perhaps a thicker/thinner grip panel will help you form a grip that will activate the BGS
thumb safety - perhaps the height of the thumb safety might prevent you from forming a grip that will activate the BGS. You might want to consider a medium thumb safety (see Wilson Combat's tactical thumb safety, or Harrison Design and EGW) or a low thumb safety (Gunsite makes a low thumb safety)



I eventually discovered that sound technique, a medium trigger, and a medium thumb safety solved my problem. YMMV





I recently shot some close quarters drills and noticed that the grip safety prevented me from pulling the trigger because of the angle of retention shooting. I would never want that to happen again.

What can I do to improve the grip safeties on my 1911's so that any small amount of movement will release the safety? I don't want to use a grip sock for liability reasons.

1911's are: Springfield Range Officer 9mm and 45cal, and Remington R1.
Cody

[cclaxton]

I evaluated all three guns.
The Springfield 1911-A1 45 Stainless has the longest depression needed, maybe more than half way needed.
The Springfield 1911-A1 9mm and Remington R1 have about the same and maybe 40% needed to release.
Also, there seems to be a higher tension on the 45 A1.
And, as mentioned, when I put my thumb on the safety, it creates a little pocket, but not so much that it turns on the safety.
BTW I never have this problem with my XDm.

I am going to take them out to the range and give them another run and see if I can figure out if this is grip/training or one of the guns has more of an issue for my hands.

Thanks for all the great posts.
Cody

[JAD]

If your hands are small like mine you may find that thin stocks help; I do. I also shoot better with them. I can run a gun with thick stocks but I prefer thin.

[Doc_Glock]

The grip safety is the main reason I gave up on the 1911. That and I didn’t shoot it better than various plastic guns

[BobRockefeller]

Have a gunsmith, knowledgeable about the 1911 platform, take a look at the pistol(s) and sensitize the grip safety to suit. Almost everything about a 1911 is customizable and tunable by a good gunsmith. If you’re a DYI kind of person, YouTube has a number of relevant videos.

[theJanitor]

The grip safety is the main reason I gave up on the 1911.

One thing I DON'T like about my Wilson EDC X9 is they eliminated the grip safety. For a SA pistol carried AIWB, I'd rather keep the grip safety

[1986s4]

I took my Colt with it's GI type grip safety to a gunsmith and asked him to tune it to off safe 50% of the way in. This plus an arched MSH did the trick. I had a lot of trouble with the high ride beavertail type safeties until I got the plain jane Colt.

[pistolwrench]

Here is an idea:
https://pistol-forum.com/showthread.php?36645-Stainless-Series-70-Colt

The owner grips very high and has trouble with the grip safety.
So I set it for minimal, but positive, engagement and increased the protrusion of the 'hump'
by .084".

https://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z228/pistolwrench19/2019-4-15%20Misc/p2.jpg~original

https://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z228/pistolwrench19/2019-4-15%20Misc/p6.jpg~original

https://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z228/pistolwrench19/2019-4-15%20Misc/k6.jpg~original

https://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z228/pistolwrench19/2019-4-15%20Misc/k4.jpg~original

https://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z228/pistolwrench19/2019-4-15%20Misc/k2.jpg~original

https://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z228/pistolwrench19/2019-4-15%20Misc/k3.jpg~original

[entropy]

Timely thread.

I took my SA Champion out for some drills the other day. Aging and thinning hands, plus years away from the design concentrating on HKs and revolvers have taken its toll. Long trigger, high safety, and a flat housing are now causing me some issues. It’s very minimal. Mostly it’s causing a rough pull as the grip safety is not quite disengaged. Its about 30-40% of the time.

Another item to note when I order my semi custom.

[RJ]

Well now, search and ye shall find.

About 735 rounds through my 1911 (Springfield Garrison in .45). Never had an issue depressing the GS during shooting, but...here I am this afternoon looking at Vickers video on 1911s, and he gets to talking about a GS. In particular, how they should disengage fairly early in the travel, but MAXIMUM of 50%.

I'm like, gee, I wonder, what does mine engage at? So after a bit of jiggery pokery with an inexpensive caliper, I deduce that my GS engages at 72%. In other words, the GS only lets the gun fire if it has traveled over 70% of it's range of motion. The fact mine was 72%, and Vickers says max of 50, got me wondering.

Is that worrisome enough to get worked up over?

This is not an EDC gun, being more of an ongoing, help-Rich-learn-about-1911s project gun. So I don't mind filing on something here or there, and learning more about GSs. Or even screwing up the one I have, and getting a replacement from EGW or Wilson/ But before I did that I thought I would ask: is this a rabbit hole I really don't need to go down?

I realize it's unusual of me to even ask this question; normally I'd just say what the hell, order some parts, and grab my Grobet USA file. But for some odd reason I am a bit hesitant on this one.

TIA.

EDIT Went back and put the part above bold. Might be I've answered my own question.

[Elwin]

Well now, search and ye shall find.

About 735 rounds through my 1911 (Springfield Garrison in .45). Never had an issue depressing the GS during shooting, but...here I am this afternoon looking at Vickers video on 1911s, and he gets to talking about a GS. In particular, how they should disengage fairly early in the travel, but MAXIMUM of 50%.

I'm like, gee, I wonder, what does mine engage at? So after a bit of jiggery pokery with an inexpensive caliper, I deduce that my GS engages at 72%. In other words, the GS only lets the gun fire if it has traveled over 70% of it's range of motion. The fact mine was 72%, and Vickers says max of 50, got me wondering.

Is that worrisome enough to get worked up over?

This is not an EDC gun, being more of an ongoing, help-Rich-learn-about-1911s project gun. So I don't mind filing on something here or there, and learning more about GSs. Or even screwing up the one I have, and getting a replacement from EGW or Wilson/ But before I did that I thought I would ask: is this a rabbit hole I really don't need to go down?

I realize it's unusual of me to even ask this question; normally I'd just say what the hell, order some parts, and grab my Grobet USA file. But for some odd reason I am a bit hesitant on this one.

TIA.

EDIT Went back and put the part above bold. Might be I've answered my own question.

I'd mess around in dry fire with different compromised grips. Get the worst grip on it you can where you would still want the gun to go off if that's the grip you had and you decided to pull the trigger. Work strong hand and weak hand, rotate the grip in your hand, etc. Doing this I've found issues with grip safeties that never gave me problems at the range because I never tried to shoot them with a compromised grip, but just because my grip isn't perfect doesn't mean I don't want the gun to go off when I pull the trigger. These are carry guns in my case but this could be equally applicable to competition.

I set mine to get out of the way of the trigger in the first quarter of travel.

[RJ]

I'd mess around in dry fire with different compromised grips. Get the worst grip on it you can where you would still want the gun to go off if that's the grip you had and you decided to pull the trigger. Work strong hand and weak hand, rotate the grip in your hand, etc. Doing this I've found issues with grip safeties that never gave me problems at the range because I never tried to shoot them with a compromised grip, but just because my grip isn't perfect doesn't mean I don't want the gun to go off when I pull the trigger. These are carry guns in my case but this could be equally applicable to competition.

I set mine to get out of the way of the trigger in the first quarter of travel.

Thanks. Did some more research into how the bottom surface of the ‘beak’ (?) of the GS affects engagement. I think I understand the mechanics involved. I’d like to say I’ll leave it as is, but I’d be lying. My OCD would drive me nuts if I didn’t fiddle with it.

Appreciate the info.

[Elwin]

Thanks. Did some more research into how the bottom surface of the ‘beak’ (?) of the GS affects engagement. I think I understand the mechanics involved. I’d like to say I’ll leave it as is, but I’d be lying. My OCD would drive me nuts if I didn’t fiddle with it.

Appreciate the info.

I'm absolutely positive that you do understand it - it's not complicated and you're obviously mechanically savvy. I'm not a gunsmith of any description and I've done this successfully twice, once by filing on the grip safety arm and the other time by doing the filing on the trigger bar ("risk ruining the cheapest part" theory). I've worked on a third, a tertiary gun in this house, that's almost there but needs just a bit more relief when I get around to it.

[RevolverJIM]

I fitted a "memory bump" GS to one of my Kimbers and after getting it to disengage early enough to suit me
(about 30% depressed), I found that the Swartz drop safety kept the firing pin locked so the cartridge wouldn't fire.

So if you are working with a 1911 with the Swartz drop safety you may have a decision to make about what to do with the drop safety.

[Elwin]

I fitted a "memory bump" GS to one of my Kimbers and after getting it to disengage early enough to suit me
(about 30% depressed), I found that the Swartz drop safety kept the firing pin locked so the cartridge wouldn't fire.

So if you are working with a 1911 with the Swartz drop safety you may have a decision to make about what to do with the drop safety.

Been there. Had to tune the Swartz safeties on two Kimbers. It was a pain in the ass but doable. A chainsaw file fits the half moon cut of that firing pin block, it's just a pain to get to it because it's under the rear sight and then it's a lot of file-test-file-test-repeat to do the job.

It's one of those things that makes a Kimber a Kimber - all of that should have been done when the gun was put together, but that's hard to do when you don't employ any gunsmiths at your 1911 factory...

[JonInWA]

It's actually quite easy to do a non-mechanically altering grip safety tune simply by judiciously bending the appropriate tine on the sear spring. I'll recommend starting with whatever you've got, but Colt and Wilson Bullet Proofs are the ones I recommend if you want to switch.

Best, Jon

[SW CQB 45]

Being large handed and with modern high grip 1911s and utilizing a thumb over the thumb safety... I can grip hard and have a pocket.

Rob tuned both my ACWs at 50 %.

My current duty issue Green MCOP... I have tested sloppy fast gripping out of a Level III duty holster and I never had an issue.

I would almost venture to say if you grip under the thumb safety it would never been an issue as the higher the thumb, the more it reduces your meaty portion of the palm on the grip safety.

I prefer thumb over the safety but I also don't have a choice due to hand size.

https://i.imgur.com/g60mmwTh.jpg

this is what I mean by raising your thumb, to me it moves palm meat away from the grip safety.

https://i.imgur.com/KMRrZmbh.jpg

[Robinson]

Thanks. Did some more research into how the bottom surface of the ‘beak’ (?) of the GS affects engagement. I think I understand the mechanics involved. I’d like to say I’ll leave it as is, but I’d be lying. My OCD would drive me nuts if I didn’t fiddle with it.

Appreciate the info.

If you do decide to tune your grip safety, a few things to keep in mind.

Go slow. Remove a little material, reassemble and assess. Then do a little more if needed. Remove too much and the grip safety is ruined.

Only remove material from the underside of the grip safety tang. Not the tip of the tang.

Keep the edge of the tang straight, do not introduce a slant to the tang edge.

After filing to the right dimensions, I like to go over mine with a stone for a bit to make sure it is nice and smooth.

Since yours is a blued gun, touch up with Cold Blue.

[RJ]

If you do decide to tune your grip safety, a few things to keep in mind.

Go slow. Remove a little material, reassemble and assess. Then do a little more if needed. Remove too much and the grip safety is ruined.

Only remove material from the underside of the grip safety tang. Not the tip of the tang.

Keep the edge of the tang straight, do not introduce a slant to the tang edge.

After filing to the right dimensions, I like to go over mine with a stone for a bit to make sure it is nice and smooth.

Since yours is a blued gun, touch up with Cold Blue.

Excellent, thanks for writing that up. May give this a shot soon.

[RJ]

Thanks again all. I think I got this knocked out this morning. I was surprised how very little it takes to affect percent of engagement. For a reference, I measured from the rear of the TS, at the very bottom, to where the caliper depth probe bottomed out on the MSH. I mean this wasn't terribly precise, but at least it gave me a repeatable test I could do to see if I was making any progress.

After taking the gun mostly apart, I started with a light polish, since I was kinda skeered to fit on it too much. I ended up with a total of three swipes of the file. I started at 73%, and am now at 44%, so I will call that "close enough". I'm sure most of ya'll have done this a lot, but in case anyone else like me is new to this, pictured below is what I used.


106417

I also found it helpful to put the numbers in a spreadsheet to make the computations a bit less of a headache.

106416

[HeavyDuty]

Thanks again all. I think I got this knocked out this morning. I was surprised how very little it takes to affect percent of engagement. For a reference, I measured from the rear of the TS, at the very bottom, to where the caliper depth probe bottomed out on the MSH. I mean this wasn't terribly precise, but at least it gave me a repeatable test I could do to see if I was making any progress.

After taking the gun mostly apart, I started with a light polish, since I was kinda skeered to fit on it too much. I ended up with a total of three swipes of the file. I started at 73%, and am now at 44%, so I will call that "close enough". I'm sure most of ya'll have done this a lot, but in case anyone else like me is new to this, pictured below is what I used.


106417

I also found it helpful to put the numbers in a spreadsheet to make the computations a bit less of a headache.

106416

I love data.

[Hambo]

Back in the day we used this...

106420


I'm ambivalent about brand as long as a bump safety has to be fitted. I've used WC and Brown, maybe others. That combined with setting the tine on the sear spring should do the job. Robinson's warning should be heeded. The line between perfect and junk is pretty thin. When I fit a grip or thumb safety I spend way more time assembling/disassembling than filing/stoning.

[Elwin]

Back in the day we used this...

106420


I'm ambivalent about brand as long as a bump safety has to be fitted. I've used WC and Brown, maybe others. That combined with setting the tine on the sear spring should do the job. Robinson's warning should be heeded. The line between perfect and junk is pretty thin. When I fit a grip or thumb safety I spend way more time assembling/disassembling than filing/stoning.

Same, and especially with grip safeties I do more of the work with sandpaper than with a file. Slow, but I’m much less likely to overdo it.

RJ, since you’re so data-driven, I’d think you’d get a lot of enjoyment out of paying $5 a month to listen to Joe Chambers talk about literally nothing but measuring different 1911s.

[HCM]

Well now, search and ye shall find.

About 735 rounds through my 1911 (Springfield Garrison in .45). Never had an issue depressing the GS during shooting, but...here I am this afternoon looking at Vickers video on 1911s, and he gets to talking about a GS. In particular, how they should disengage fairly early in the travel, but MAXIMUM of 50%.

I'm like, gee, I wonder, what does mine engage at? So after a bit of jiggery pokery with an inexpensive caliper, I deduce that my GS engages at 72%. In other words, the GS only lets the gun fire if it has traveled over 70% of it's range of motion. The fact mine was 72%, and Vickers says max of 50, got me wondering.

Is that worrisome enough to get worked up over?

This is not an EDC gun, being more of an ongoing, help-Rich-learn-about-1911s project gun. So I don't mind filing on something here or there, and learning more about GSs. Or even screwing up the one I have, and getting a replacement from EGW or Wilson/ But before I did that I thought I would ask: is this a rabbit hole I really don't need to go down?

I realize it's unusual of me to even ask this question; normally I'd just say what the hell, order some parts, and grab my Grobet USA file. But for some odd reason I am a bit hesitant on this one.

TIA.

EDIT Went back and put the part above bold. Might be I've answered my own question.

Rich,

I’ve been told by multiple 1911 ‘smiths that 1911/2011 grip safety should allow the gun to fire at about 50% travel.

I don’t mess with doing my own safety and trigger work on 1911’s, but a Gun Smith who knows what they’re doing can adjust the sensitivity on a grip safety in about five minutes. They can set the grip safety to somewhere between 15-25% travel.

Personally I’d rather have a sensitized grip safety than tie it down and deactivate it.

[TiroFijo]

Rich,

I’ve been told by multiple 1911 ‘smiths that 1911/2011 grip safety should allow the gun to fire at about 50% travel.

I don’t mess with doing my own safety and trigger work on 1911’s, but a Gun Smith who knows what they’re doing can adjust the sensitivity on a grip safety in about five minutes. They can set the grip safety to somewhere between 15-25% travel.

Personally I’d rather have a sensitized grip safety than tie it down and deactivate it.

Same for me...

I did the "sensitizing" myself on a couple of guns, but there are no good gunsmiths where I live so I prefer to make my own mistakes :D

First, understand well how it works, Then, measure, cut a little, measure again, repeat...

It is not really a very important safety in the 1911 IMO, and personally I have no beef with anyone that simply deactivates it, but in the case of a self defense shooting having an "intentionally deactivated safety" may not sound good to a jury. There aren't make browning Hi Power users (or any other pistol) complaining about the lack of a GS. IIRC, it was added per Cavalry requirements that the pistol be made immediately safe should the firer release his grip on the pistol. The idea was that a rider on a horse might let go of his pistol during a rough ride, and they didn't want it to go off and kill the horse or rider as it banged around at the end of its lanyard.

[SW CQB 45]

I tested my green MCOP grip safety that was tuned by SACS in the good ole days.

Unbeknownst to me it's about 50%.

Whew!

I take back what I said in a previous post. Last night I recalled one mishap at a range session. This was pre COVID sometime.

One of my co-workers and I are always poking at each other and if we are together at the range....it turns into a contest.

I will give credit where credit is due, he is faster out of the holster and on target.

We had a out of a holster contest (same retention but different guns CZ P10c / 1911), I can't recall the distance(s) and closest to the dot on the target and best time (shot timer).

He has a red dot CZ and I have my green iron sights MCOP. He has to find his height over bore mark, I don't.

We kept going on and his speed out of the holster was on his side.

I decided to go for broke and whip out some LUDICRIS SPEED. I sacrificed the quality of the draw and the gun felt odd in my hand. I went to press the trigger and NOTHING. My grip was so poor I was not on the grip safety. :(

He won and could not stop laughing.


as another JAB, we were teaching an academy class and he was performing a drill for the class and for some unknown reason... his CZ fed under the feed ramp and tied up his gun. We never let him forget. My guess, his recoil spring was long overdue for replacement.

[Trukinjp13]

I just fit a new BP Wilson grip safety and thumb safety on my Trp build. I had to file a shit ton off the grip safety to get it to activate, then a decent amount to be around 50% travel. I cut my old thumb safety off where it engaged the fire control and used for function testing.

Definitely worth taking the time to make the engagement correct.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[HeavyDuty]

Glad I found this thread again - I haven’t fitted a grip safety since the late 80s, and RJ’s post is a good reminder. I have a new SIG that requires almost total movement to defeat the GS.

[GJM]

Rob Leatham and I had a discussion about this five years or so ago. Because he shoots many different 1911 pistols, as a factory shooter and does not have the luxury of tuning grip safeties, he has learned to get a good grip that depresses the grip safety before he moves his thumb to the thumb safety later in the presentation. He says you don't need to be in a hurry to get to the thumb safety but you do need to be in a hurry to get a good grip that depresses the grip safety.

In any event, I just had Ed Cameron tune the grip safety on my Staccato CS so that it takes less engagement. He did the same to my Staccato P.