new carry revolver

[Moonshot]

Looking for some advise on a revolver purchase, but first - a little background.

I have posted some of these questions before, but for different reasons, and lack of funds have prevented me from taking any action. However, I now have both the funds and a good reason to move forward.

I currently carry a G26 IWB as a primary (and usually only) gun. I will occasionally carry a 642 no lock as a second gun (on my ankle and tuned by Denny Reichard, but more to be given to my wife or daughters in an emergency or for a secure way to carry a spare gun when I travel on business throughout my state).

I am not in LE.

My 642 is loaded with Federal 148gr WCs. They shoot to my sights with little recoil, offer good penetration, and are easy for my wife and daughters to use as well.

I have little confidence in any HP consistently opening up when fired through barriers from a 2” barrel, the recoil from a +P out of an air weight slows down my followup times and/or opens up my groups, and DocGKR has stated that a HP which fails to open up causes less wounding than a full WC. This has lead me to move away from my original 135gr +P SBGDs and start carrying the WCs.

However, some recent injuries along with trying to read the political tea leaves have caused me to consider a scenario where I could not use a semi-auto handgun. Either I no longer have the physical strength to properly and safely manipulate one (load mags, rack slide, control recoil) or perhaps new laws will remove from consideration any semi-auto action.

Should either of these scenarios occur, I would rather have my preferred alternative in place and ready to carry rather than begin the process of looking for, and possibly not finding what I want.

This new revolver would be carried in a belt holster (IWB or OWB) and would replace my G26. I would then likely be more religious about carrying my 642 as a 2nd gun.

I could carry another 642. I already have one that has also been tuned by Renny Reichard, but while I am confident in the WCs on a 2nd gun, I would prefer my primary have something with a little more authority. One of my concerns is shooting through auto glass. While I do not envision having to shoot from the outside of a car in, I can envision being forced off the road and having to shoot from the inside out. A heavy bonded JHP makes more sense here than a soft lead WC. Even if the JHP doesn’t open up, it should still penetrate better (or so I understand it).

With all this in mind, I am looking at a revolver with one or two features that my 642 doesn’t have - more weight and/or more barrel.

More weight would dampen the recoil of a +P and offer faster follow up shots (putting me where I am now with my 642 and WCs), and more barrel would help the HP to reach high enough velocity to encourage expansion.

A 6th round would be a plus, but to go this route I would either need a much heavier platform (GP100 weight) or go with one of the newer models (Kimber or Colt). The Ruger 3” GP100 interests me, but it’s a lot of weight to start EDC, while the newer options are just that - new. I do not want to be a beta tester and both companies do not exactly have a stellar reputation for QC.

No one has a stellar QC reputation anymore, but at least Ruger and Smith have options out there that have been fielded for a long time.

For these reasons I am leaning towards a no lock 640 Pro, a 2” DAO SP101, a 3” SP101 converted to DAO, or an old (like 30 years old) 3” adjustable sight S&W Mod 60 (again converted to DAO).

The 2” 640 Pro and the 2” SP offer easier carry and enough weight to dampen the +P 38s I would start loading in the gun. I have no intention of loading them with magnums.

The 3” SP offers weight and extra barrel, but would be more expensive (I would need to send it out to bob the hammer and DAO it), and I suspect the longer barrel will be a little harder to carry (especially IWB).

The 3” M60 is not +P rated and would be the most expensive option (the initial purchase price plus having Denny Reichard work on it - well worth it but still expensive). My biggest concern with the M60 are the adjustable sights and the lack of +P rating. I prefer fixed sights on this kind of gun and I would practice with it frequently. I practice with ammo similar to what I carry.

I am also not sure if the extra inch offers enough velocity boost to really enable HP expansion. The negatives of a longer barrel (harder to carry IWB and more barrel for an assailant to grab) may be more significant than the slight increase in ammo performance that an extra inch provides.

The Ruger LCR series has some nice features, especially the trigger, but there is something about the LCR that I don’t like. I can’t really articulate what it is, but there is something about them I don’t like.

A 9mm revolver has occurred to me. Both the LCR and the SP101 can be had in 9mm. I would think the performance of the 9mm would be superior to a +P .38, but I have heard of frequent extraction issues, and if the moon clips bend the gun can be rendered useless. Also, any spare ammo carried in moon clips just looks flimsy and easily dislodged. I suspect 9mm is not the way to go in a wheel gun.

Anything with an internal lock is out. A used pre-lock K-frame or S-series Ruger is likely to be way too expensive, even before I DAO it.

Any suggestions on my thought process or on the options I am considering (or other options I hadn't considered) will be appreciated.

[Totem Polar]

There is a lot to unpack there. Rather than point-by-point, I’ll just tell you what I’ve ended up with, and why. As an aside, I have a 4" model 64 "NY-1" (factory DAO, bead blast finish made for the NYPD back in the revolver days) and you would not dislike that gun. ;)

One way to handle going to a revolver-centric EDC is the Mike Pipes way: move through the world literally brimming with J-frames. There is something to be said for that level of specialization; it’s way less efficient than a G26, but much of life’s problems that could be solved *at all* with a handgun could be solved with 3 customized j-frames.

That said, I’m slowly moving away from 2" (1 7/8") j-frames, and on to other options. I have 2 x 3" heavy barrel j-frames that I like: a 36-1 heavy barrel modified to DAO, and a 36-6 "target" that I fell into that I bought because, another 3"; better sights; cooler than hell. As I collect 3" guns, I realize that I don’t really need the 2" all-steel guns. The last 2" I have is the 642, because of weight.

Then we have the other brands you mention as unvetted: Kimber and Colt. I have a 3" k6s. It’s now over 1k rounds, and so far, so good. There do seem to have been some serious issues with the original firing pin design and dry-firing, but I have been told directly by Kimber CS that all the current production K6s come with an improved firing pin. I like that gun a lot; roughly 3" SP101 weight and size, but better ergos, sights, and trigger... plus the 6th round. Recommended, at this point, at least by me. It’s a contender, if my state goes 10-round. Hell, it’s a contender now, because, better than j-frame capability in a j-frame lifestyle. (Sidebar: the mid-level .357s, eg. Remington golden sabre 125, are very doable in that gun. Not much different felt recoil than the hottest 158 .38 special loads—just a bit more muzzle flip, FWIW. I do not care for full power .357s in these guns, myself)

Now, on to Colt. I recently bought the night Cobra, because it was there. This gun exudes build quality. The only real complaint on the first Cobras was that the finish seemed down budget, and this DLC black fixes both the niggle, and the down budget part :)

I don’t have enough rounds through it to call it truly "vetted," but I’m several hundred rounds of 158 and 130 ball, and 100+ rounds of various +P loads with no issues. I see this one taking over as main squeeze once it can get accessorized (AIWB holsters are in short supply; it goes to and from the range in my old MacEvoy ‘summer special’ type IWB rig I have for an SP101–works great, but I’m not a behind the hip guy at this point, so it’s mostly grounded for now).

I really like the night cobra. Others who would know have said nice things about this particular version, including dagga boy, Craig D, et al.

Beyond that, one option that I’d invite you to consider—assuming you have the eyesight for the stock sights—is one of the DAO model 64s that regularly appear at places like J&G sales. Less than 400 bills will get you one in excellent shape. Have it worked on by Denny, or don’t; either way, it’s still a solid option if one simply must have a revolver for carry. These are, for all practical purposes only available in 4" barrels. The 3" guns are rare, and command very aggressive prices. The good news is that 4" is no harder to carry IWB/AIWB than 3". Both those lengths are typically better than 2" inside the waistband, because they are more stable, and put more mass below the beltline. May sound counter intuitive, but it’s true in my experience. My 4" Denny R-tuned NY-1 disappears in a JMCK "George", so long as I have very compact grips on it at the time.

So, there it is, in my experience. If I was looking at one "carry gun" off the rack, from scratch, it might be the night Cobra. With a bit more commitment, 2 surplus NY-1s (or a clean NY-1 with a tune by Denny) could work. Not hypothetical on my end, as that’s pretty much where I ended up.

I’m keeping an eye on the new king cobra too, because, 3" tube and mid-range .357, but we are a ways away from solid user reports at this time.

All the above is just my opionion. I’m one of the last true wheelie holdouts around though, for a variety of reasons. Again, FWIW.

ETA: Denny R NY-1...

[MolonLabe416]

If I were going to all revolver carry, I’d find a good 3” or 4” K Frame S&W. RB or SB as you prefer (I tend to prefer RB on 3” and shorter, SB on 4” guns). I’d carry an Airweight J Frame on my off side as a “New York Reload.”

They can be found with a little time and patience, particularly the 4” guns.

Here’s a 3” currently listed on GB:

https://www.gunbroker.com/item/797050531

[Moonshot]

Do I need to worry about these old pre-lock K and J frame guns in .38 special only not being +P rated? A steady diet of +P is too expensive, but I try and train as I carry, and I see a relatively high round count of hot standard pressure or +P .38s through whatever I buy.

[revchuck38]

Do I need to worry about these old pre-lock K and J frame guns in .38 special only not being +P rated? A steady diet of +P is too expensive, but I try and train as I carry, and I see a relatively high round count of hot standard pressure or +P .38s through whatever I buy.

If you get a K frame .38 Special that has a model number - i.e., 10 or 15 or 64 or 67 - it's good for +P. There are three decades' worth of them manufactured prior to the lock's appearance.

[L-2]

There's a lot of considerations in the 1st post and worry over potential future issues.

-the Glock 26 and S&W 642 are good guns to already own. I often carry one or both of these guns. I do have several other semis and revolvers from which to choose.

-ammo selection is completely up-to-you regarding a wadcutter vs. JHP. From DocGKR's 2012 post,

"Currently, the Speer Gold Dot 135 gr +P JHP, Winchester 130 gr bonded +P JHP (RA38B), and Barnes 110 gr XPB all copper JHP (for ex. in the Corbon DPX loading) offer the most reliable expansion we have seen from a .38 sp 2” BUG; Hornady 110 gr standard pressure and +P Critical Defense loads also offer good performance out of 2" barrel revolvers."

-Whether a semi-auto handgun will somehow become illegal to use may be something for which to plan; I don't know where that will specifically be whether that'll be NJ, WA, CO, or some other state. I do understand if a semi-auto is just beyond the owner's physical capabilities, however.

-Not having enough money is something to plan. Buying firearms for any/every situation is futile as it'll always be a compromise and a person can only plan so far. Is a handgun or firearm even going to be the best alternative or answer?

-At one point the concern is shooting through auto-glass, from the inside to outside; yet another concern is someone grabbing a barrel which is longer than the 642's 1 7/8".

-I'll try to summarize the wants in a revolver for the 1st post, which doesn't seem to exist:
--affordable to the OP. (often, there are added costs associated with physical restrictions/handicaps. It's just the way it is.)
--.38 Special probably, but not .357 Magnum.
--heavier than a 642, probably with a 3" barrel, minimum.
--can't be a new brand/model.
--for some reason it has to be DAO or converted to be DAO (unknown as to why).

-------------------
I'm nobody's salesperson and I have no personal interest as to what somebody buys or carries. I do find it interesting to read what folks do decide and disclose what the use/carry.

[Jim Watson]

J&G has Model 10s for $400.
Here are Model 67s for $550.
https://www.sportsmansoutdoorsuperstore.com/products2.cfm/ID/208960

Keep your eye open for the next wave of police tradein models 64 or 65 if you want stainless fixed sights.
People are sinking a lot of money into these to get to the current fad of a roundbutt 3" but you might be happy with a 4" squarebutt.

Don't forget a Ruger Speed Six of about the same size and very sturdy.

[03RN]

I don't think any of the j frames or small 5 shot revolvers are a significant improvement over your 642. Small grip, 5 rounds, meh sights, although the 640 pro has great sights.

I don't see j frames as an edc gun (for me). I don't shoot them as well as k frames and they have less ammo. They're an emergency backup or a spare.

I really think you'd see an improvement with a used k frame.

My m64 was $380 last year and my m19 was $350 but that was a rare find. My wife's 2" nickle M15 was $600 which was more than I wanted to spend but I'm glad I got it. Incredible trigger and as accurate as any full sized gun I own. I can not shoot any j frame near as accurate, as fast, or reload as efficiently.

I'd have zero qualms carrying it with 130 grain +p rangers or golden sabers.
This was 25 yards offhand with those bonded rangers.
35116

This gun is 30oz unloaded and shoots very well.
35117

I think if you found a m64/m65 for $400 you'd have exactly what you want. Even a 2" m10/M15 would be better imo.

[03RN]

https://www.hyattgunstore.com/smith-wesson-model-15-4-38-special-revolver-used-in-good-condition.html
35120
$429
https://www.gunbroker.com/item/799761732
35121
DAO with a $375 buy now price. There you go.

[03RN]

https://www.gunbroker.com/item/799796113
35122
$425 buy now

[mmc45414]

The 3” SP offers weight and extra barrel … I suspect the longer barrel will be a little harder to carry (especially IWB)I have a 3" SP that I typically carry in a Summer Special 2 and I would say it carries BETTER with the bit of extra barrel (strongside, 3:00). It seems like the cylinder is behind the belt and it rides nicely.

[Tennessee Jed]

For what it's worth, those 38 Special 4 inch k-frames are VERY easy to learn to shoot well. I bought an S&W 10 with a 4 inch skinny barrel for my 70 year old mother, who has arthritis and never shot a handgun in her life. I painted the front sight bright yellow, and added some ugly but very comfortable Hogue grips. She comes with me to the range often, and she became quite good with that revolver and 158 grain +p loads at 10 - 12 yards, shooting double action.

I think everyone should own at least one.

[TheNewbie]

When the Kimber K6 DA/SA starts showing up in stores I am going to give one a good look.


Three dot sights, good trigger, exposed hammer, reasonable weight, and a 6th round all sound really nice. The only thing I don't like is the price.



Have any of you comapred a Glock 26 to a Kinmber K6? In weight, how they carry, etc?

[willie]

Do I need to worry about these old pre-lock K and J frame guns in .38 special only not being +P rated? A steady diet of +P is too expensive, but I try and train as I carry, and I see a relatively high round count of hot standard pressure or +P .38s through whatever I buy.

You have zero worry about older K frames unless they were made before about 1956, maybe earlier. One thing, though. The K frame is a big handgun when compared to a J frame or Colt Detective Special. Being thicker, longer, and heavier than these may mean that you might soon cease carrying it. Boxcars of no lock steel J frames like Model 60s exist. They have the heft you seek with none of the bulk. If I had your concern, I would own multiple J frame 442s, shoot one exclusively and carry the others in rotation except for one kept in reserve. In practice, if recoil became uncomfortable, I would continue to do what I have done for years: put on a weighted wrist bracelet used by others to exercise. Recoil is tamed. Once properly trained and armed, retreat if you can do so safely. When I am gone but some of you are still carrying a weapon, that advice will be even more valuable then. I refer to the fact that you definitely don't won't any involvement with the criminal justice system. Anyway, why become involved in a gun fight if it can be avoided.

[medmo]

I think you are handicapping yourself discounting the Kimber K6s. My experience with my sample of one has been excellent. I shoot it a lot. They have been out long enough to have exposed major flaws by now.

[Totem Polar]

https://www.gunbroker.com/item/799761732
35121
DAO with a $375 buy now price. There you go.


That leaves 3-4 bills to throw at a good revolver smith for an action hone, front sight, and bead blast while still undercutting the Kimber or Colt offerings that come GTG out of the box. Compelling. Very compelling.

It's true though: while I LOVE a good 4" K-frame, it's getting into alloy framed Gov't model 1911 territory for carry weight and bulk. But, I shoot K-frames well, so I'm not opposed to the idea.




Have any of you comapred a Glock 26 to a Kinmber K6? In weight, how they carry, etc?

Similar weight, loaded up (more or less 26 oz). Kimber K6 with the 3" tube is bigger, but rounder. I figure it's a wash, aside from the capacity issue. JMO.

[1986s4]

I was looking for a good no-lock J frame when I came upon a really nice, as in 1 box of ammo, used Smith M13-5. The last issue before the 13 was dropped and the locks went in. This is a 4" to go with my 13-3 3", now I'm set and I can look for a nice J frame.

[TGS]

I carried one of my 2.5" Model 19 for the first time ever the other day, and my god...…

...that thing disappeared and was an absolute joy to carry. I can't find a reason why I would carry an SP101 (used to own one) instead of the K-frame, especially considering the performance I can wring out of one instead of an SP101.

Looks can be deceiving. The K-frame is a perfect carry revolver to me. YMMV.

[Bigghoss]

https://www.gunbroker.com/item/799796113
35122
$425 buy now

You almost cost me $425 plus shipping and transfer. I was THIS close...

I have a 2.75" Security Six in the safe. I need to go play around with that some more.

[BN]

You almost cost me $425 plus shipping and transfer. I was THIS close...

I have a 2.75" Security Six in the safe. I need to go play around with that some more.

Looks like you might get it for $335??? No reserve, no bids??

[Alpha Sierra]

A pancake style OWB holster and a stiff rigger's type belt makes carrying a 3" K frame and two reloads a non-issue.

[Bigghoss]

Looks like you might get it for $335??? No reserve, no bids??

And 5 days left on the auction. Screw it. I'll bid the $335 and see what happens. I won four M&P's that way for $250 each.

[deputyG23]

I have a 3" SP that I typically carry in a Summer Special 2 and I would say it carries BETTER with the bit of extra barrel (strongside, 3:00). It seems like the cylinder is behind the belt and it rides nicely.
I carry a 4" barreled .38 IWB semi-regularly and the longer barrel stabilizes the gun and keeps the butt from tilting outward, in my experience.

[Alpha Sierra]

OP is overthinking the crap out of this.


Find a used K frame with the lock for cheap
Buy a TK Customs ILS plug.
Open up sideplate
Remove mainspring and hammer
Remove lock arm (the flag)
Remove lock cylinder and spring
Install plug in the ILS hole
Replace hammer and mainspring
Replace sideplate


Enjoy

[Wyoming Shooter]

I'm intrigued by the new S&W Performance Center M19: https://www.smith-wesson.com/firearms/performance-center-model-19-carry-comp. Jerry Miculek did an interesting video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rliTo_SnPIE. I handled and dry fired a sample at First Stop Guns in Rapid City, SD and was impressed. The lock is easy enough to lose. Even I can do it: https://www.originalprecision.com/lock-delete-parts.html. I wonder if a similar PC M66 will be produced. From the Big Empty, ELN.

[revchuck38]

I carry a 4" barreled .38 IWB semi-regularly and the longer barrel stabilizes the gun and keeps the butt from tilting outward, in my experience.

A 4" K frame (first an M67-1, then an M10-8) was my primary gun for about ten years, both IWB and OWB. It's much easier to conceal one of those than an autoloader, even a single-stack.

[camsdaddy]

A 4" K frame (first an M67-1, then an M10-8) was my primary gun for about ten years, both IWB and OWB. It's much easier to conceal one of those than an autoloader, even a single-stack.
I find my 3" 65 conceals better than any of my semis except maybe a Glock 43.

[Alpha Sierra]

A lot of people who claim a revolver's cylinder makes it more difficult to conceal evidently have never tried to actually conceal one.

The very fact that most profiles on a revolver are curved instead of angular and linear makes them much easier to conceal than almost any semi auto of similar physical footprint.

[deputyG23]

A 4" K frame (first an M67-1, then an M10-8) was my primary gun for about ten years, both IWB and OWB. It's much easier to conceal one of those than an autoloader, even a single-stack.
And less painful, in my case. My work G23 carried IWB sometimes presses on the hip in such a manner that it aggravates my sciatica. Haven't had that issue with the 4" Smith K or 4" Ruger GP-100 .38 carried in a Galco Summer Comfort holster. Still trying to figure out a way to carry HKS #10 or #586 speedloaders that doesn't tie up my strong side jeans pocket where my 442 lives.
I am currently relying on a 2x2x2 belt ammo pouch and two speed strips in the same pocket with the snub.

[BillSWPA]

I have carried both revolvers and semiautos. I do find semiautos easier to conceal and more comfortable to carry. The flat sides increase the surface area against my side, reducing pressure and increasing comfort.



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[MolonLabe416]

Do I need to worry about these old pre-lock K and J frame guns in .38 special only not being +P rated? A steady diet of +P is too expensive, but I try and train as I carry, and I see a relatively high round count of hot standard pressure or +P .38s through whatever I buy.

+P will not be an issue with any reasonable training curriculum.

Once you’re dialed in with the new platforms, I’d submit you won’t need to shoot more than a box of +P annually.

I personally, and I know I’m in the minority, rarely carry +P in Airweight J’s. I’m not sure the extra oomph from that short barrel is worth the bother.

[Duelist]

+P will not be an issue with any reasonable training curriculum.

Once you’re dialed in with the new platforms, I’d submit you won’t need to shoot more than a box of +P annually.

I personally, and I know I’m in the minority, rarely carry +P in Airweight J’s. I’m not sure the extra oomph from that short barrel is worth the bother.

I’ve shot a few +p through my 642. I probably won’t do it again.

[TheNewbie]

I’ve shot a few +p through my 642. I probably won’t do it again.

By the end of a 50 round qualif with 158 grain +p .38s, I was ready to stop. Way before round 50.

[Bigghoss]

DAO 4" model 64's for $350.

https://aimsurplus.com/smith-wesson-model-64-38spl-dao-4-in-revolver?utm_source=AIM+Surplus+Main+List&utm_campaign=4e2948e674-EMAIL_CAMPAIGN_2019_02_08_01_58_COPY_01&utm_medium=email&utm_term=0_6870497a6a-4e2948e674-18547601&mc_cid=4e2948e674&mc_eid=03feec8c0f

[Moonshot]

Some good, solid advise here. My thanks to everyone who responded. A used 4” K-frame seems to get a lot of recommendations, and the price is right, but there are three reasons I wasn’t looking in this direction…

I never felt confident buying a used revolver sight unseen. I realize many places let you return them if something is wrong, but I’m not smart enough to be able to tell if something is wrong on my own and I would have to send the gun out for inspection. How much time I have to make a return and the cost for inspection and possible repairs is an issue.

I have always been advised to not buy a gun for defensive use if that gun is no longer in production - parts and/or skilled gunsmiths can be harder to find.

A 4” barrel revolver may be the ideal barrel length to get the performance I want, but that type of gun is larger and heavier than I wanted to carry. In theory, the gun should be relatively small and light to facilitate easy concealed carry under all conditions. I carry a G26 because I find a G19 to be too big for me to carry year round.

I could just carry a 2nd 642 in my Comp-tac IWB holster and be done with it, but I consider the 642 a great WC launcher but less than ideal to fire anything much more powerful - when I loaded my 642 with SBGDs my split times increased and my groups opened up.

I have a friend looking to sell a 3” adjustable sight pre-lock M60, but that seems more suited to be loaded with WCs and become my wife’s house gun (she currently has an old 640).

I can order a NIB no-lock 640 PRO from my LGS, but the price is pushing $850 (with tax and paperwork). Sending it off to Denny at Sand Burr will add $250 to that. That’s pretty steep right now.

Unless I can find a good used 3” DAO K-frame or Ruger S-series (both of which seem harder to find and more expensive when found) or come to terms with a 4” version, I think my best option might be either a 2” DAO SP101 or a 3” SP101 and send it off to Ruger to be DAO’d for about $180. Gemini Custom could DAO it, but as good as they are, they are also expensive.

If I want to go bigger and heavier, a new 3” GP100 may be my best bet. Trouble is, Ruger will not convert it to DAO.

Perhaps I am going about this in the wrong way. The whole purpose behind this project was to have a firearm in place, vetted, trained on, and ready to carry that I can transition to should I ever need to move away from my preferred G26 (last year I had a shoulder injury and I carried my 642 in an offside kydex IWB holster for about 4 or 5 months, still loaded with WCs).

I already have a couple of revolvers, but they are designed and loaded more as back up guns than primary guns loaded with serious defensive rounds. I am looking for a revolver round that will meet the FBI protocol for 4LD and AG, and then I need to buy a platform that will allow me to carry this load year round, provide for recurring training and practice, hit to my sights, allow for rapid follow up shots and if I do my part - tight groups.

That’s the goal, but I get it - no free lunch. A heavy 4” GP100 with adjustable sights may be easier to use, but harder to carry. A 2” 640 PRO is just the opposite. The 3” SP101 might split the difference and be the best compromise with the 2” DAO version being the most cost effective.

I’m still trying to figure this out. And yes, I realize I might be over thinking this. That’s what happens when you don’t have a lot of experience or a lot of money.

[camsdaddy]

I see mention of not having much experience or money. I think you could do a lot worse than a 4” kframe or a 3” sp101 and many before mentioned just the way they come. Buy one, shoot it and carry it then decide if you need to “have it tuned”.

[Chuck Whitlock]

Unless I can find a good used 3” DAO K-frame or Ruger S-series (both of which seem harder to find and more expensive when found) or come to terms with a 4” version, I think my best option might be either a 2” DAO SP101 or a 3” SP101 and send it off to Ruger to be DAO’d for about $180. Gemini Custom could DAO it, but as good as they are, they are also expensive.


That’s the goal, but I get it - no free lunch. A heavy 4” GP100 with adjustable sights may be easier to use, but harder to carry. A 2” 640 PRO is just the opposite. The 3” SP101 might split the difference and be the best compromise with the 2” DAO version being the most cost effective.

I think you already know this, but the 2.25" SP101 is available from the factory as a DAO:
https://ruger.com/products/sp101/specSheets/5720.html

If you prefer fixed sights, this version of the GP100 might be to your liking:
https://ruger.com/products/gp100/specSheets/1763.html

All it would need is the hammer spur and SA notch removed, which frankly is quite easy to do. I once did it to a beater Security-Six that I had. the finished product wasn't pretty but was entirely functional. (I didn't sweat pretty, as the gun wasn't pretty either)

[Totem Polar]

Some good, solid advise here...

Given the criteria in your last post, I’m telling you:

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4765/25033471627_13f44e4ba8_k.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4753/39886675582_5773d0f89b_k.jpg

[Moonshot]

I think you already know this, but the 2.25" SP101 is available from the factory as a DAO:
https://ruger.com/products/sp101/specSheets/5720.html

If you prefer fixed sights, this version of the GP100 might be to your liking:
https://ruger.com/products/gp100/specSheets/1763.html


I am aware of the 2.25” DAO SP101. I’ve shot one extensively. A pussycat with +P, but I tried some old 180gr Black Talon .357s and that was no fun at all.

I know about the 3” GP100, but I was unaware of the 2.5” GP100. I guess there is also a 7 round version with adjustable sights. Interesting, but likely too thick.

As for performing my own gunsmithing on a carry piece - no thanks. For liability reasons alone, especially on the trigger, I need the work performed by the factory or a well known and certified smith.


Given the criteria in your last post, I’m telling you:

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4765/25033471627_13f44e4ba8_k.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4753/39886675582_5773d0f89b_k.jpg

That Colt also seems to meet my needs, but it’s still somewhat new (and I read what you all said about it. I won’t rule it out for that reason, but I would like to see some more reviews.) The price may be a deal breaker though - MSRP is about $900. I would need to see a big price drop.

[Chuck Whitlock]

As for performing my own gunsmithing on a carry piece - no thanks. For liability reasons alone, especially on the trigger, I need the work performed by the factory or a well known and certified smith.

I'm afraid that I wasn't very articulate earlier, and the point that I was (poorly) trying to make is that removing the hammer from a Ruger is far less involved that from a Smith, and should therefore be somewhat less expensive from a qualified professional, in comparison. Mea culpa.

[Totem Polar]

That Colt also seems to meet my needs, but it’s still somewhat new (and I read what you all said about it. I won’t rule it out for that reason, but I would like to see some more reviews.) The price may be a deal breaker though - MSRP is about $900. I would need to see a big price drop.

I’d have to dig up the receipt, but the street price was just under 8 bills. It wasn’t much more than 8 out the door, all in, in my area. Considering the night sight, DAO, and *excellent* trigger—along with the ion bond finish—there’s no need for any aftermarket work. Trigger compares ok to my Reichard-tuned K-frame; certainly close enough to call it good to go. If they made the same thing (DAO/ion bond) in 3", I’d get that too, and retire my other wheelies. JMO, OMMV, etc.

[03RN]

I'm afraid that I wasn't very articulate earlier, and the point that I was (poorly) trying to make is that removing the hammer from a Ruger is far less involved that from a Smith, and should therefore be somewhat less expensive from a qualified professional, in comparison. Mea culpa.

There's no liability problem with cutting a spur off the hammer.

As for action work. Your putting the cart before the horse.

Buy a gun, shoot a thousand rounds through it, then decide if it needs any work. I doubt it will. I've handled some 40 year old guns that were meh. Once 40 years of accumulated grease and grit were removed it was a brand new gun.

You keep stating how the action work will be this much extra, etc, etc. It's really not that necasary. After a couple years of shooting you may want to but it's much less imperative.

If you need a new gun than a gp100 3" talo or a m66-8 with 2.75" barrel are the answer. The Ruger will be a little thicker.

[TheNewbie]

I’d have to dig up the receipt, but the street price was just under 8 bills. It wasn’t much more than 8 out the door, all in, in my area. Considering the night sight, DAO, and *excellent* trigger—along with the ion bond finish—there’s no need for any aftermarket work. Trigger compares ok to my Reichard-tuned K-frame; certainly close enough to call it good to go. If they made the same thing (DAO/ion bond) in 3", I’d get that too, and retire my other wheelies. JMO, OMMV, etc.


Do you like the K6 or the Night Cobra better?


I’m really looking at a revolver for my main concealed weapon.


What I want is an external hammer (simply to ride when holstering, no interest in SA), decent sights, 6 rounds, and roughly the size of a Glock 26/M&Pc 1.0 compact.

Seems like that leaves me with the Night Cobra or K6.


Reading a Kimber forum, it seems like the reliability issue posts are from the early release days, and not so much now.

[Chuck Whitlock]

There's no liability problem with cutting a spur off the hammer.

As for action work. Your putting the cart before the horse.

Buy a gun, shoot a thousand rounds through it, then decide if it needs any work. I doubt it will. I've handled some 40 year old guns that were meh. Once 40 years of accumulated grease and grit were removed it was a brand new gun.

You keep stating how the action work will be this much extra, etc, etc. It's really not that necasary. After a couple years of shooting you may want to but it's much less imperative.

If you need a new gun than a gp100 3" talo or a m66-8 with 2.75" barrel are the answer. The Ruger will be a little thicker.

The OP had specified that he wanted the revolver to be rendered DAO, which involves removal of the SA notch from the hammer. That was all I was referring to.

[Dave T]

I am in no way trying to be offensive but the OP has admitted he is over thinking this and this DAO business is a good example. The only thing required to render a DA revolver DAO is for the operator to not cock the hammer. If your thumb is tempted, despite your best intentions, it wouldn't cost all that much to have a competent gun smith bob the hammer. Don't worry about all those little internal parts. They will be fine in there. Just leave them alone. (smile)

Dave

PS: If you can wait, Colt's new 3" King Cobra might just push all your buttons, or take a hard look at a 3" KS6s. Both are reported to have pretty good trigger pulls right out of the box.

[Totem Polar]

Do you like the K6 or the Night Cobra better?


I’m really looking at a revolver for my main concealed weapon.


What I want is an external hammer (simply to ride when holstering, no interest in SA), decent sights, 6 rounds, and roughly the size of a Glock 26/M&Pc 1.0 compact.

Seems like that leaves me with the Night Cobra or K6.


Reading a Kimber forum, it seems like the reliability issue posts are from the early release days, and not so much now.

Can I get back to you on that? I mean, the K6S is a more modern design; reloads faster for me (push latch vs pull latch) and, incredibly, has more aftermarket support in terms of holsters, since the Colt Cobra is a modified new frame version of the old classic. Plus, the K6S has that chambering versatility with all the .357 options on the table.

But there is just something to be said about that classic Colt DS vibe. I'm really digging it. Both guns came with mediocre stocks on them; slick and round in profile. I ditched the K6 stocks in favor of textured compact VZ grips-which really made the gun. Ironically, the Night Cobra ships with VZs, but they are low-texture and round, like the original K6 altamonts, so they're a little more squirrely than I'd like.

Right now, I'm all excited about the Colt, but I don't have a decent way to carry it, and I'm thinking the retro vibe calls for a set of pachmayr compacs to take this one over the top. If I had a good, minimalist AIWB rig and sorted grips for the Colt--plus another couple hundred rounds through it--I'd probably lean that direction, but it's too early to tell.

I'm glad I have both though. I will say this about the K6 in 3" form: it is darn close to 3" K-frame shootability (eg. with Remington GS 125 mid range .357, or Winchester 145 silver tip) and darn close to all-steel 640 ease of stuffing into a belt. The K6 easily meets the SP101 for concealment and exceeds it a little for range capability.

They're both cool guns. If I had to sell one today, I'd probably keep the Colt though. I like the night sight, exposed DAO hammer (same as you) and the proven, vintage form.

I dunno. Here's to America, where I can have one of each to back each other up.


ETA: I should say that they'll both work well, as is, and are GTG out of the box, IMO. I'd take either one, and both are functionally ahead of comparable offerings from Smith or Ruger, for the niche that they compete in. Especially Smith, for the money. Those clowns need to rethink that lock, and put some real sights on their basic models, or get left in the dust. If someone gave me a typical new Smith, I'd trade it in on another of these current Colts, and I have, shall we say, more than one older Smith (and Ruger, though they're working a lot harder than Smith to stay current, so that's tangential..) in the safe; it's not like I wasn't a huge S&W wheelie fan before the whole world started offering more bang for the buck.

[TheNewbie]

Can I get back to you on that? I mean, the K6S is a more modern design; reloads faster for me (push latch vs pull latch) and, incredibly, has more aftermarket support in terms of holsters, since the Colt Cobra is a modified new frame version of the old classic. Plus, the K6S has that chambering versatility with all the .357 options on the table.

But there is just something to be said about that classic Colt DS vibe. I'm really digging it. Both guns came with mediocre stocks on them; slick and round in profile. I ditched the K6 stocks in favor of textured compact VZ grips-which really made the gun. Ironically, the Night Cobra ships with VZs, but they are low-texture and round, like the original K6 altamonts, so they're a little more squirrely than I'd like.

Right now, I'm all excited about the Colt, but I don't have a decent way to carry it, and I'm thinking the retro vibe calls for a set of pachmayr compacs to take this one over the top. If I had a good, minimalist AIWB rig and sorted grips for the Colt--plus another couple hundred rounds through it--I'd probably lean that direction, but it's too early to tell.

I'm glad I have both though. I will say this about the K6 in 3" form: it is darn close to 3" K-frame shootability (eg. with Remington GS 125 mid range .357, or Winchester 145 silver tip) and darn close to all-steel 640 ease of stuffing into a belt. The K6 easily meets the SP101 for concealment and exceeds it a little for range capability.

They're both cool guns. If I had to sell one today, I'd probably keep the Colt though. I like the night sight, exposed DAO hammer (same as you) and the proven, vintage form.

I dunno. Here's to America, where I can have one of each to back each other up.


ETA: I should say that they'll both work well, as is, and are GTG out of the box, IMO. I'd take either one, and both are functionally ahead of comparable offerings from Smith or Ruger, for the niche that they compete in. Especially Smith, for the money. Those clowns need to rethink that lock, and put some real sights on their basic models, or get left in the dust. If someone gave me a typical new Smith, I'd trade it in on another of these current Colts, and I have, shall we say, more than one older Smith (and Ruger, though they're working a lot harder than Smith to stay current, so that's tangential..) in the safe; it's not like I wasn't a huge S&W wheelie fan before the whole world started offering more bang for the buck.



I know you like the Colt night sight, but do the three dot sights work well on the K6?


It's hard to find a Glock 26 sized DAO or DA/SA (HK is not an option for me). So I am looking at these two revolvers at the moment.

One thing I like about the K6, as you mentioned, is the ability to chamber .357. As an all around gun, this sounds like a nice option. CCW, backpacking, etc.

[Moonshot]

Again, the gun is the platform. I’m actually more interested in what round to carry in it that will meet my perceived needs for a primary CCW revolver - controllable for rapid follow up shots and able to meet the FBI penetration specs after passing thru 4LD or AG.

I have assumed that’s at least a +P bonded HP with minimum bullet weight of 130+ grams. I could load any of the +P bonded .38s in my 642 (and have in the past), but IMO that platform is too light for that much power - as I have stated before, when I loaded my 642 with SBGDs my split times increased and my groupings opened up. Not dramatically, but enough to notice.

A heavier platform (640 PRO, SP101, GP100, K6, Cobra, used K-frame, etc) would allow for far more control with the hotter round than that same round if fired from my airweight.

I need more than a 2” barrel if I want to help ensure reliable expansion, but as much as I would like the round to expand, I am more concerned with control and penetration. Therefore, I want the platform to have enough weight to dampen recoil without being so heavy I find excuses to not carry it, a smooth (but not necessarily light) trigger to aid in accuracy, descent but solid sights for the same reason, and loaded with a round that will meet the FBI penetration specs thru the 4LD test and the AG test.

As far as I know, my WCs will meet all these requirements except the autoglass test. That’s why I’m looking at carrying a hotter bonded round in my primary gun, and that's why I’m looking at a different platform in which to load it.

As for getting an action job from the get go - I’ve shot too many revolvers over the years with only so-so triggers. After getting a NIB 642 and having Denny Reichard work his magic on it (all stock parts but smoothed and polished) the difference is dramatic, and I think well worth the expense.

Regarding my having a conventional revolver converted to DAO - I understand if I don’t thumb cock it than it will be double action, but I want the gun to be incapable of being thumb cocked. That way, should I ever need to use the revolver in self-defense, no one can make the claim that I thumb cocked the gun, intentionally or unintentionally, creating a hair trigger situation and then fired unintentionally. Bobbing the hammer is not enough. It has to be rendered incapable of being cocked into single action.

I understand there can be advantages to being able to fire in single action. For other people, with other operational needs, other forms of training, and other rules of engagement, retaining the single action feature may indeed be well worth it, but I feel they are not worth the added liability risk. You can disagree with that philosophy all you want. In that case, don’t do it to your gun, but for me it’s a non-negotiable requirement.

And so we come back full circle to my OP. I am looking for a revolver to replace my G26 as a primary CCW carried on my belt. Why I might need to do this is irrelevant. I want the option. My shoulder injury last year is a good case in point. One day I was fine, and the next day I had limited use of my right arm. Luckily, I had a holster that would accommodate my 642 on my left side, and I had already trained with shooting it left handed.

It was all I really needed, but I felt the round it carried (Federal WCs) left a little bit to be desired if I needed to employ it from inside my car. This event is what began the process that led to my OP.

If I am going to load a primary carry revolver with a hotter bonded round (whether +P .38 or magnum), I need a platform with enough weight to make it controllable without being so big or heavy that I find reasons to not carry it, and enough barrel to make it meet the performance specs thru 4LD or AG.

Action job, carry melt, DAO conversion, different front sights - these are all available once I have the platform. I can do them if I want, or not. They won’t decide the platform. I have a number of choices, and I see from the responses to my post that some of those choices I had at first not really considered - the K6, the new Cobra, the King Cobra, even some used K-frames.

What I end up buying may ultimately be decided by what round I end up carrying in it as well as how it carries on me, with my lifestyle. Again, I appreciate all the advise offered. I’ll just have to keep looking, and hopefully I can make an intelligent decision.

[Alpha Sierra]

OP you are drowning in a sea of indecision brought about by irrational fears of liability. 99% of the issues you're worried about exist in your imagination. Nobody is going to sue you, prosecute you, or even use against you the fact that your revolver is capable of being fired in single action just to mention one of your obsessions.

Have it your way, but it's difficult to give advice to someone who on one hand admits to being inexperienced but on the other had a retort for everything you're advised to do.

Good luck.

[03RN]

Alpha Sierra covered that point we'll.

The other point on action work.

It makes sense on a j frame. K frames have inherently better actions.

As for loads.

130 grain Winchester Rangers. +P and bonded. After that golden sabers.

For Magnum I use 125 grain golden sabers.

Barnes 125 grain bullets going 12-1300 would be perfect as well. I think I'm going to load some to just that and switch over for EDC. Buffalo bore sells some loaded, I'm not sure who else down loads them.

[Stephanie B]

Alpha Sierra covered that point we'll.

The other point on action work.

It makes sense on a j frame. K frames have inherently better actions.

As for loads.

130 grain Winchester Rangers. +P and bonded. After that golden sabers.

For Magnum I use 125 grain golden sabers.

Barnes 125 grain bullets going 12-1300 would be perfect as well. I think I'm going to load some to just that and switch over for EDC. Buffalo bore sells some loaded, I'm not sure who else down loads them.
There are enough tests out there that shows some of the 38+ P rounds do pretty well out of a 2 inch barrel, let alone a 4 inch barrel.

Find a decent used 3” Model 60 or a K frame. Load with Winchester Ranger/PDX1 or similar and you’ll be good to go. Add CT laser grips, maybe.

I don’t know if anything else is required.

[HeavyDuty]

I’ve been adding to my revolvers, too - partially because it’s like coming home to my early shooting days, but also because I do think there is a not negligible risk that semiautos will become difficult to own in the future. In fact, that’s one of the things driving my desire to move from this freakin’ state.

I have never felt completely comfortable with 2” J frames - mine see very little use. I did pick up a 3” DAO Kimber that I’ve been impressed with so far, and I’m at the point that I feel comfortable carrying it. A 69 fills my northwoods field carry role (OK, I only do that a few times a year but I needed to give myself a reason for wanting one) and I just picked up a 4” 619 to be a primary defensive gun - it’ll probably get DAOed or at least despurred. If SAs were legislated out of existence tomorrow, I’m pretty well set at this point.

OP, I encourage you to give the Kimber a look. If I were only allowed to keep one centerfire handgun (shudder), it might be this one due to its versatility.

[john c]

Some good, solid advise here. My thanks to everyone who responded. A used 4” K-frame seems to get a lot of recommendations, and the price is right, but there are three reasons I wasn’t looking in this direction…

I never felt confident buying a used revolver sight unseen. I realize many places let you return them if something is wrong, but I’m not smart enough to be able to tell if something is wrong on my own and I would have to send the gun out for inspection. How much time I have to make a return and the cost for inspection and possible repairs is an issue.

I have always been advised to not buy a gun for defensive use if that gun is no longer in production - parts and/or skilled gunsmiths can be harder to find.

A 4” barrel revolver may be the ideal barrel length to get the performance I want, but that type of gun is larger and heavier than I wanted to carry. In theory, the gun should be relatively small and light to facilitate easy concealed carry under all conditions. I carry a G26 because I find a G19 to be too big for me to carry year round.

I could just carry a 2nd 642 in my Comp-tac IWB holster and be done with it, but I consider the 642 a great WC launcher but less than ideal to fire anything much more powerful - when I loaded my 642 with SBGDs my split times increased and my groups opened up.

I have a friend looking to sell a 3” adjustable sight pre-lock M60, but that seems more suited to be loaded with WCs and become my wife’s house gun (she currently has an old 640).

I can order a NIB no-lock 640 PRO from my LGS, but the price is pushing $850 (with tax and paperwork). Sending it off to Denny at Sand Burr will add $250 to that. That’s pretty steep right now.

Unless I can find a good used 3” DAO K-frame or Ruger S-series (both of which seem harder to find and more expensive when found) or come to terms with a 4” version, I think my best option might be either a 2” DAO SP101 or a 3” SP101 and send it off to Ruger to be DAO’d for about $180. Gemini Custom could DAO it, but as good as they are, they are also expensive.

If I want to go bigger and heavier, a new 3” GP100 may be my best bet. Trouble is, Ruger will not convert it to DAO.

Perhaps I am going about this in the wrong way. The whole purpose behind this project was to have a firearm in place, vetted, trained on, and ready to carry that I can transition to should I ever need to move away from my preferred G26 (last year I had a shoulder injury and I carried my 642 in an offside kydex IWB holster for about 4 or 5 months, still loaded with WCs).

I already have a couple of revolvers, but they are designed and loaded more as back up guns than primary guns loaded with serious defensive rounds. I am looking for a revolver round that will meet the FBI protocol for 4LD and AG, and then I need to buy a platform that will allow me to carry this load year round, provide for recurring training and practice, hit to my sights, allow for rapid follow up shots and if I do my part - tight groups.

That’s the goal, but I get it - no free lunch. A heavy 4” GP100 with adjustable sights may be easier to use, but harder to carry. A 2” 640 PRO is just the opposite. The 3” SP101 might split the difference and be the best compromise with the 2” DAO version being the most cost effective.

I’m still trying to figure this out. And yes, I realize I might be over thinking this. That’s what happens when you don’t have a lot of experience or a lot of money.

A couple of points:

1) While you're correct that old style K-frame parts are drying up, the simple solution is to get multiple copies. You'll then have parts or a full spare gun. Also, unless something's bee filed on, the parts don't usually go bad. I think when the parts become completely unavailable, a third party supplier will pop up.

2) For an overview of how to evaluate a revolver, google The Revolver Checkout. This will allow you to diagnose any major defects before even filling out a 4473. Any smaller defects are easily corrected. Don't fret too much about end-shake; most used revolvers will have some, and it's easily corrected with shims.

3) Wadcutters are viable defense rounds. Obviously, more is better, but if shooting more potent rounds hurts, compromise. We're all going to face declining physicality as we age, and there will come a point where it's wadcutters or nothing. Don't fret.

4) BUY YOUR FRIENDS NO LOCK 3 INCH MODEL 60. The weight is much closer to a 4 inch K frame than a 642. It should handle heavier loads than 642 with comfort. It's a perfect companion piece to your 642, sharing most support gear. It's a no-brainer, if the price is right.

5) 3 inch K-frames will much more expensive than any of your other choices, since cost is an issue, I'd look at your other choices.

6) For $850, I'd pick the Colt over a 640 Pro. Buy it, shoot it, and see if it needs work. Dry firing a revolver 500 or 1000 times will smooth it out.

7) For you purposes, skip the GP100. It's a belt gun, at best. I have a couple, and they're great. But they would be far down my list for carry. Get one of those model 67s if you want a full size gun.

A quick question: for a belt gun (K-frame or similar), why is DAO so important? I get the desirability, but if you're on a budget, get the pistol and then convert to DAO down the road.

[Totem Polar]

I know you like the Colt night sight, but do the three dot sights work well on the K6?


It's hard to find a Glock 26 sized DAO or DA/SA (HK is not an option for me). So I am looking at these two revolvers at the moment.

One thing I like about the K6, as you mentioned, is the ability to chamber .357. As an all around gun, this sounds like a nice option. CCW, backpacking, etc.

I’ve had a chance to mull this over a bit, and here’s my conclusion/take/answer: the Colt, due to the revised and stretched grip frame, really isn’t G26 sized. Close, but both longer and taller. The 3" Kimber isn’t all that petite either, but it’s a bit tighter. I’ll try to get a good comparo pic in the am, but, if I was looking to get a revolver to replace a G26, and fit within the envelope, I’d buy the 2" K6S. With flush grips, it’s in the same size range, and the midrange .357s (eg. 135 GDHP) will get you into 9mm territory. I think the K6 sights are great, and I’m not even a 3-dot guy. I painted my K6 front P-F orange, and blacked out the rear, and it’s a nice sight picture.

I’m a hopeless romantic when it comes to the Colt, but for a subcompact, That K6 really fits the bill, with a smaller grip on the same size frame. I like the looks of the 2" Kimber TLE, and I’ve been told directly (I asked) that all the new K6’s come with the revised firing pin/bushing, so any TLE you find will have the most modern parts. Some compact VZs, and you’re about there, size wise. JMO.

https://www.kimberamerica.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/k/6/k6s_k6stle2in_503x505_1.png


ETA: I forgot about the exposed hammer requirement. No problem; the external hammer K6s guns are also new enough to have the current parts.

[Magyars]

Not for CC, but a great belt gun.

[Bigghoss]

https://www.gunbroker.com/item/799796113
35122
$425 buy now


And 5 days left on the auction. Screw it. I'll bid the $335 and see what happens. I won four M&P's that way for $250 each.

One day left and I'm still the only bidder on this. I figured with it being a 2" somebody would have outbid me by now. Perhaps someone is waiting to snipe it at the last minute or maybe DAO's just aren't desirable (I certainly prefer them). Guess we'll find out tomorrow.

[Alpha Sierra]

Not for CC, but a great belt gun.

That thing conceals easier than you might think

[03RN]

One day left and I'm still the only bidder on this. I figured with it being a 2" somebody would have outbid me by now. Perhaps someone is waiting to snipe it at the last minute or maybe DAO's just aren't desirable (I certainly prefer them). Guess we'll find out tomorrow.

Sweet. It certainly is tempting.

[03RN]

That thing conceals easier than you might think

Yup. Carry my m19 everyday.

[Dave J]

One day left and I'm still the only bidder on this. I figured with it being a 2" somebody would have outbid me by now. Perhaps someone is waiting to snipe it at the last minute or maybe DAO's just aren't desirable (I certainly prefer them). Guess we'll find out tomorrow.

I’d probably bid on it if I didn’t know I’d be bidding against another P-F member.

Well, that and I recently found this one in a LGS. Haven’t converted it to DAO yet, but will soon.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190219/3dd7687e3ae909e161e7aa956e89800b.jpg

[BN]

One day left and I'm still the only bidder on this. I figured with it being a 2" somebody would have outbid me by now. Perhaps someone is waiting to snipe it at the last minute or maybe DAO's just aren't desirable (I certainly prefer them). Guess we'll find out tomorrow.

I've been watching it hoping you get it. I have one just like it and it is a fun little gun. I got mine for $240 a few years ago at a LGS. It had a really crappy set of square butt grips on it. ;)

[Totem Polar]

One day left and I'm still the only bidder on this. I figured with it being a 2" somebody would have outbid me by now. Perhaps someone is waiting to snipe it at the last minute or maybe DAO's just aren't desirable (I certainly prefer them). Guess we'll find out tomorrow.

Like others here, I’m not one to crap in a brother’s breakfast cereal. I do hope you get it.

[SeriousStudent]

I think you'll love it. I have a 2" Model 64 with a set of Bianchi Lightning Grips.

It's a lot of fun to shoot.

[alohadoug]

Glad you said something. I was going to throw a bid on it tomorrow. Now, I hope you get it.

[Stephanie B]

One day left and I'm still the only bidder on this. I figured with it being a 2" somebody would have outbid me by now. Perhaps someone is waiting to snipe it at the last minute or maybe DAO's just aren't desirable (I certainly prefer them). Guess we'll find out tomorrow.
I'd be on that one if you weren't.

I picked up a nice 15-3 a year or so back that seem to have been ignored by everyone else. There are deals to be had on GB, but it's a matter of pure luck.

[Totem Polar]

One thing I like about the K6, as you mentioned, is the ability to chamber .357. As an all around gun, this sounds like a nice option. CCW, backpacking, etc.

One more for you, since you (sort of) asked: this pic shows a reasonable comparison of the 3" K6, the Night Cobra, and the known quantity that is the 642, with the fronts of the cylinders lined up. That'll give you an idea of relative size, with the most compact grip options currently available, FWIW.

[03RN]

It seems a few of you have a similar 2" rb k frame. Do you mind weighing it and posting what grips it has?

[oregon45]

It seems a few of you have a similar 2" rb k frame. Do you mind weighing it and posting what grips it has?

The only 2" K-frame I have is this 15-3, square butt, wearing factory magna grips and a Pachmayr grip adapter:

https://i.imgur.com/CnJi83d.jpg?2

In round-butt K-frames I've got a pair of Model 66's, one 2.5" and one 3", both wearing vintage Pachmayr "gripper" grips, which are my favorite grips for these revolvers, although not the lightest option.

2.5"

https://i.imgur.com/XJtVkTJ.jpg?2

3"

https://i.imgur.com/HYLZMSM.jpg?2

[Scal]

I have a nickeled Model 10 RB with a 2” barrel, that weighs in at 28.9oz with Hogue Bantam grips unloaded.

[Dave J]

FWIW, the 2” Model 64–2 with Altamont boot grips, shown in my earlier post, comes in at 29.7 oz unloaded.

[Lon]

The only 2" K-frame I have is this 15-3, square butt, wearing factory magna grips and a Pachmayr grip adapter:

https://i.imgur.com/CnJi83d.jpg?2

In round-butt K-frames I've got a pair of Model 66's, one 2.5" and one 3", both wearing vintage Pachmayr "gripper" grips, which are my favorite grips for these revolvers, although not the lightest option.

2.5"

https://i.imgur.com/XJtVkTJ.jpg?2

3"

https://i.imgur.com/HYLZMSM.jpg?2

Nice K’s. I was looking for a 2” 15 when I made the offer on the 64 I just won on GB. And a 3” 66 is also on my bucket list of K’s. If I ever find a good deal on either I’ll own them.

[03RN]

Thanks guys. I was wondering what the difference would be.
35283

[03RN]

You almost cost me $425 plus shipping and transfer. I was THIS close...

I have a 2.75" Security Six in the safe. I need to go play around with that some more.

45 minutes!

[Lester Polfus]

Thanks guys. I was wondering what the difference would be.
35283

Even with that picture, we're still wondering..... :p

[03RN]

Even with that picture, we're still wondering..... :p

Is the 30.1 not readable for you?

[Lon]

Is the 30.1 not readable for you?

Too fuzzy for me to read.

[Totem Polar]

Is the 30.1 not readable for you?

Didn’t need to read it; I knew what it would say.

;)

[Bigghoss]

45 minutes!

Two people jumped in at the last minute and one of them got it for $370.

[BN]

Two people jumped in at the last minute and one of them got it for $370.

Bummer. :(

[03RN]

Too fuzzy for me to read.

Oh, I'm sorry.

[03RN]

Two people jumped in at the last minute and one of them got it for $370.

That's to bad, unless it was the op. Good deal on a good carry gun.

[Bigghoss]

Bummer. :(

That's to bad, unless it was the op. Good deal on a good carry gun.

Meh. I have two AR's coming so I have that to look forward to. And I still have the 2.75" Security Six.

[Lester Polfus]

Oh, I'm sorry.

No worries. I could have probably figured out a way to embiggen the image on my monitor, but I thought I'd leave a snarky comment about the free information you provided instead.

Thanks, dude.

[Moonshot]

Thanks to everyone for their advise. I've decided to go with the DAO SP101 with 2.25" barrel. It'll be stocked with 135gr +P SBGDs.

A 3" SP101 would be nice, as would a 640 PRO, but both are too expensive. K-frames and GP-100s are too big. The Cobra/King Cobra is possible, depends on what the street price is and how it feels in my hand, but they as well as the K6 are very new. The SP has been out for a long time. It's 5 rounds and a solid history vs 6 rounds and no history.

Thanks again.

[Chuck Whitlock]

I think you'll be pleased with your choice.

I like the grip inserts from Atamont, and find them more comfortable than the ribbed plastic ones from the factory. Only downside is that the screw can get rusty from sweat.

https://www.altamontco.com/pistol-grips/ruger/sp101/

[jaredm1]

Thanks to everyone for their advise. I've decided to go with the DAO SP101 with 2.25" barrel. It'll be stocked with 135gr +P SBGDs.

...

This is the model I own and I've been carrying regularly for the past few months. I have Pachmayr Compac grips on mine and it carries very easy on a belt.

[Moonshot]

This is the model I own and I've been carrying regularly for the past few months. I have Pachmayr Compac grips on mine and it carries very easy on a belt.

Those are the stocks I plan on using and that's how I plan on carrying it (IWB).

I actually would prefer the 3" version, as that would make shooting magnums a little more pleasant, but it would add about $225 to the price tag (send to Ruger for a snag free hammer and conversion to DAO, plus shipping and insurance).

The only SPs around here that I can handle (none are the DAO version, and I really would prefer to not buy a revolver sight unseen), are listing for about $625 (less tax and paperwork). That's steep enough.

[sparkyfender]

Probably my favorite carry revolver is my Colt Detective Special. It is one of the later models, I actually prefer them to the earlier editions.

Six shots in a very carryable package, although I shy away from +P loadings. Here it is tucked into a TT Gunleather holster.

[Stephanie B]

Agree. I have a 3rd Gen DS, carried in a DeSantis pistol pocket

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190319/bbbeb7a354da62ec8976e2861408bc17.jpg

+P for carry, standard pressure for the range. That may not comport with current doctrine , but screw that noise. ;)

[Zeke38]

Colt in the 80s announced that the DSes could shoot +P ammo as long as it was SAAMI recognized +P less than 20K PSI. When Colt originally spoke to shooting +P in their D frames they were speaking of the 38-44 loads that ammo companies were still producing at the time which is usually loaded to the 24-25K PSI level.

At that time the Feds still carrying revos in 357 but shooting 38s had the ammo companies producing 38+P+ ammo to skirt the operating reg that Agents were not allowed to shoot or carry magnums in their issued revolvers. Admin didn't want their agents on the stand testifying that they had shot someone with a Magnum round.

Colt said to train with the standard 38s and use the SAAMI +P at less than 20K for personal defense. Colt said 2,500 rounds of +P would be ok without any frame stretching or timing issues.

I carried a D frame Colt Cobra on and off duty for years, but it has been retired. I now carry the New Cobra and I love it. I carry the Buffalo Bore 158 grain LSWCHP NON +P round in my new Cobra. It chronos 880 and shoots right to point of aim. This makes me a happy camper.

[Stephanie B]

I have Winchester Ranger +P for my K/J frames and the DS. It’s in the “good enough for gummint work” category for me.