S&W Model 66 Combat Magnum

[Port]

Anyone have one of these things? They are so purdy... I find myself wanting one! I’d carry it every now and again. Not too often, but I’d shoot it at the range a lot. How’s the accuracy? Fun enough for a range gun?

I know the 4” would be more accurate, it’s just no where near as appealing to me.

34129
https://www.smith-wesson.com/firearms/model-66-combat-magnum


Someone sell me in or out of this thing. Please. I’m obsessing lol.

[Stephanie B]

I have an ‘80s version.

[Port]

I have an ‘80s version.

Do you like it? Good pinker? Do you carry it?

[SeriousStudent]

I have the ported one from the Performance Center, along with its Model 67 twin.

They are an enormous amount of fun. I already have several friends standing in line, waiting to bump me off so they can inherit both of them.

[willie]

I also have one from 1993.

[oregon45]

Here's a very informative article on the 2.75" M66: https://www.luckygunner.com/lounge/review-sw-model-66/

3" K-frames are fun shooters; with what S&W is asking for one of these new 66's, you could watch and wait for awhile and get a used one for nearly the same money (but likely not on auction sites). I paid $700 out the door for this 3" M66-2 last year. I adjusted the rear sight to the left just after taking this picture:D

https://i.imgur.com/ootPu7A.jpg?1

They're fun to shoot with 38's and 38+P rounds; full-house .357 with 125gr JHP's is exciting and muzzle flash/blast is appreciable, I prefer to run 180gr bullets in .357 Magnum rounds in all barrel lengths, but especially in the 3" length because I find the muzzle blast to be less annoying than with light bullet loads.

If you buy a new M66, I recommend you do so only after handling one in person. S&W's current quality control can be variable.

[Spartan1980]

Do you like it? Good pinker? Do you carry it?

I'll second scrounging for an older one. I refurbished a department issue 66-1 from the '70s and it's kind of a BBQ gun to me. Fun to play with, accurate enough and can shoot magnums on occasion if I want. On the rare occasion I carry it, it's loaded with Speer Gold Dot 135 +P .38 Specials. I rarely carry it because I have a 9 Shield that has more payload on board in a lighter, easier to conceal package. If you want a .357 get the 3" barrel as a minimum. Reloads with a short extractor rod is a long drawn out affair if on the clock. The 3" gets you the full length rod and is mucho better.

Edit: I shot this stage clean but you can see what I mean about reloading. Especially in the dark. These were full house 158 grain .357 loads.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UOtrbK2VdQg

[Stephanie B]

Do you like it? Good pinker? Do you carry it?
I like it a lot. I have a 4”. It’s a bit for IWB, but it’s doable.

[medmo]

Anyone have one of these things? They are so purdy... I find myself wanting one! I’d carry it every now and again. Not too often, but I’d shoot it at the range a lot. How’s the accuracy? Fun enough for a range gun?

I know the 4” would be more accurate, it’s just no where near as appealing to me.

34129
https://www.smith-wesson.com/firearms/model-66-combat-magnum


Someone sell me in or out of this thing. Please. I’m obsessing lol.

I’ve been feeling a strong pull toward the current production 2.75” bbl-ed with a full length ejector rod. I’m the wrong guy to sell you out of it.

Chris Baker from LG did an excellent review:

https://www.luckygunner.com/lounge/review-sw-model-66/

I have a 19-3, 2.5” bbl that is slick, sweet and accurate. I can’t see myself taking that one out, dragging it through the mud, sweating on it, etc.

[Port]

I’ve been feeling a strong pull toward the current production 2.75” bbl-ed with a full length ejector rod. I’m the wrong guy to sell you out of it.

Chris Baker from LG did an excellent review:

https://www.luckygunner.com/lounge/review-sw-model-66/

I have a 19-3, 2.5” bbl that is slick, sweet and accurate. I can’t see myself taking that one out, dragging it through the mud, sweating on it, etc.

Ever since my buddy brought his S&W out to the range the other week, the pull is strong for me too. Of course the trigger on his had been worked on already... but what a thing of beauty.

[Stephanie B]

I’ve been feeling a strong pull toward the current production 2.75” bbl-ed with a full length ejector rod. I’m the wrong guy to sell you out of it.

Chris Baker from LG did an excellent review:

https://www.luckygunner.com/lounge/review-sw-model-66/

I have a 19-3, 2.5” bbl that is slick, sweet and accurate. I can’t see myself taking that one out, dragging it through the mud, sweating on it, etc.
If only it didn’t have the soul-leaking hole........

[medmo]

Ever since my buddy brought his S&W out to the range the other week, the pull is strong for me too. Of course the trigger on his had been worked on already... but what a thing of beauty.

Trigger work would be mandatory and immediate. It’s simple, straight forward and is mostly swapping out to after market springs. Kills me that S&W feels the need to ship revolvers with over kill eight billion pound springs in them. Then a Rough Country Target rear sight, a HiViz Red front and a set of Hogue rubber Bantams. Like I said, I’m not the right guy for talking anyone out of this idea.

[SeriousStudent]

If only it didn’t have the soul-leaking hole........

Yup, I buy one of those titanium lock replacement plugs off eBay, and take the pistol to my favorite local gun mechanic.

He removes the lock, installs the plug, and stops the soul-hemorrhaging.

When I pay him in cash and whiskey, he even polishes the action while he's looking at the innards.

[medmo]

If only it didn’t have the soul-leaking hole........

I’ve moved on from that years ago. When I want to admire one of the newer S&W revolvers I just turn it over and look at the right side of it. It’s just easier that way for everyone.

[HCM]

Trigger work would be mandatory and immediate. It’s simple, straight forward and is mostly swapping out to after market springs. Kills me that S&W feels the need to ship revolvers with over kill eight billion pound springs in them. Then a Rough Country Target rear sight, a HiViz Red front and a set of Hogue rubber Bantams. Like I said, I’m not the right guy for talking anyone out of this idea.

Not really. No issues with the springs they come with. Lightened spring kits in revolvers are a crutch which compromise in reliability and if shooting at speed, shootability.

Now how smooth the trigge pull is often leave something to be desired but that is largely a tolerance stacking issue and another reason to not buy modern S&W revolvers sight unseen.

[Port]

Not really. No issues with the springs thy come with.

Now how smooth the trigge pull is often leave something to be desired but that is largely a olerance stacking issue and another reason to not buy modern S&W revolvers sight unseen.

Can you elaborate on that a bit for me. I’ve heard people say that before, but I’m not sure I understand.

I’d be ordering mine in most likely

[medmo]

Not really. No issues with the springs thy come with.

Now how smooth the trigge pull is often leave something to be desired but that is largely a olerance stacking issue and another reason to not buy modern S&W revolvers sight unseen.

Definitely polishing/buffing/stoning is part of the package. That and tuning with the right springs can make any S&W action slicker than (insert here what ever you find to be the most slickest thing imaginable). I would have a really hard time buying ANY revolver sight unseen and without a chance to run through an action check. Agreed. Having said that I haven’t found newer S&W revolvers to be turds. Other people’s experiences may vary.

[HCM]

Can you elaborate on that a bit for me. I’ve heard people say that before, but I’m not sure I understand.

I’d be ordering mine in most likely

It is the product of having gotten a random mix of recent guns with good and bad QC.

In the past, S&W revolvers were built with tool steel internal parts and “fitted” by skilled workers. The first step in that fitting was acknowledging there were differences in the tolerance of the parts and trying different parts to find a hammer, trigger, etc which fit together well.

Current S&W revolvers are made with MIM internals. The good news is there is nothing wrong with MIM itself and they can hold tighter tolerances on the parts themselves. The bad news is they are now “assembled” not fitted and as long as they function you get what you get in terms of tolerance stacking.

Personally I’ve had the following issues on recent production S&W revolvers:

1) Some have a noticeable “hitch” in the middle of the the DA stroke, usually the result of the fit between the cylinder notches and the cylinder stop as it rises to lock the cylinder. This can be reduced, but not eliminated in the new guns.
2) I’ve had a fixed revolver with a 2 piece barrel improperly installed causing a far right POI. S&W addressed this under warranty, reducing the error but not eliminating it.
3) I also had a 686 plus (7 shooter) performance center gun which shot groups of 5 and 2 flyers together. Turned out the gun had five chamber throats of one size and two of another. The same gun had issues with the rebound slide sticking and preventing the trigger from resetting even with the stock full power rebound spring.



If you order one check it carefully before you accept it at your FFL and don’t hesitate to make use of S&W warranty service, which is generally good.

[HCM]

Definitely polishing/buffing/stoning is part of the package. That and tuning with the right springs can make any S&W action slicker than (insert here what ever you find to be the most slickest thing imaginable). I would have a really hard time buying ANY revolver sight unseen and without a chance to run through an action check. Agreed. Having said that I haven’t found newer S&W revolvers to be turds. Other people’s experiences may vary.

I’ve had mixed experience with recent (last 10 years) production S&W revolvers as detailed in the post above.

Slickness / smoothness and spring weight are two seperate issues. The current MIM parts have their pros and cons but one limitation is they are only surface hardened which limits how much they can be polished or buffed without causing serious issues.

[OlongJohnson]

I just assume that current production S&W and Ruger revolvers are almost-ready-to-shoot revolver kits, and are shipped fully assembled as a reliable method of ensuring all the parts are included. Both companies routinely ship things that should never have made it out the door.

Very strongly agree with the smoothness vs. spring weight comments, though. A fully slicked up revolver really doesn't need lighter springs unless you're trying to beat Jerry.

[HCM]

I just assume that current production S&W and Ruger revolvers are almost-ready-to-shoot revolver kits, and are shipped fully assembled as a reliable method of ensuring all the parts are included. Both companies routinely ship things that should never have made it out the door.

Very strongly agree with the smoothness vs. spring weight comments, though. A fully slicked up revolver really doesn't need lighter springs unless you're trying to beat Jerry.

The funny thing is Jerry M shoots full power springs as guns with lighter springs reset too slowly.

[Scal]

I had a new M66. I really liked that the flat on the barrel under the forcing cone was not there, and I also liked the revised crane lock. But my particular sample needed an very heavy for factory weight mainspring to be reliable, even with an extended length cylinder and slide firing pin, and of course, it had the lock.

Given the cost of the new 66s, I would absolutely wait for an older pre lock version to show up if I had to do it again.

[Crusader8207]

Picked this up yesterday. Trigger get good out of the box. Added Sile grips and installed a Wilson Combat kit. Won't get to the range until next weekend, but I like it so far.


34143

[medmo]

I just assume that current production S&W and Ruger revolvers are almost-ready-to-shoot revolver kits, and are shipped fully assembled as a reliable method of ensuring all the parts are included. Both companies routinely ship things that should never have made it out the door.

Very strongly agree with the smoothness vs. spring weight comments, though. A fully slicked up revolver really doesn't need lighter springs unless you're trying to beat Jerry.

A smoothed up fully reliable action with a 12 pound DA is a world of difference between that same smoothed up fully reliable action with an 8 pound DA. I might not want to beat Jerry but I’ll surely take his tips/advice on how to shoot my revolvers faster and more accurately.

[medmo]

Picked this up yesterday. Trigger get good out of the box. Added Sile grips and installed a Wilson Combat kit. Won't get to the range until next weekend, but I like it so far.


34143

Oh, very nice! You aren’t helping the gravitational pull for me! Full length rod. Happy extracting and ejecting!

BTW - Let’s see a pic of the right side? It will help everyone, (especially some folks), if we just don’t see the lock and can pretend it never happened.

[medmo]

I had a new M66. I really liked that the flat on the barrel under the forcing cone was not there, and I also liked the revised crane lock. But my particular sample needed an very heavy for factory weight mainspring to be reliable, even with an extended length cylinder and slide firing pin, and of course, it had the lock.

Given the cost of the new 66s, I would absolutely wait for an older pre lock version to show up if I had to do it again.

Did you have light primer strikes or mis-fires?

[OlongJohnson]

Picked this up yesterday. Trigger get good out of the box. Added Sile grips and installed a Wilson Combat kit. Won't get to the range until next weekend, but I like it so far.


34143

Tell us more about those Sile grips. I'm liking their J frame option, and I've seen the K frame grips around. I have stayed away so far because finger grooves. Can you compare to, say, a Presentation?

[OlongJohnson]

The funny thing is Jerry M shoots full power springs as guns with lighter springs reset too slowly.

Maybe I need to watch the video again. I remember him recommending keeping the rebound slide spring stock for fast reset, but using his light hammer springs for competition guns, even going as far as sticking with Federal primers for ignition reliability with a light hammer spring. For duty or other serious use, of course, he recommends keeping springs stock.

[medmo]

The funny thing is Jerry M shoots full power springs as guns with lighter springs reset too slowly.

Not sure where you heard that. He sells what he recommends:

https://miculek.com/product/miculek-sw-revolver-spring-kit-k-l-n-frame/

Even with a stock action Jerry would smoke any other human being speed and accuracy-wise.

[Scal]

Did you have light primer strikes or mis-fires?

I tried replacing the factory mainspring with a standard weight power rib spring, and got lots of misfires. It was reliable with the factory mainspring, but the DA pull was heavier than I prefer. The C&S firing pin and power rib spring made it reliable with Federal primers only, but the gun was going to potentially be used for defensive shooting, so that was a non-starter.

[HCM]

Not sure where you heard that. He sells what he recommends:

https://miculek.com/product/miculek-sw-revolver-spring-kit-k-l-n-frame/

Even with a stock action Jerry would smoke any other human being speed and accuracy-wise.

From back before he sold spring kits ;-)

Yeah, “Federal primers only” = range toy only for me. YMMV.

[Crusader8207]

Tell us more about those Sile grips. I'm liking their J frame option, and I've seen the K frame grips around. I have stayed away so far because finger grooves. Can you compare to, say, a Presentation?

At the last TacCon, Claude Werner stated that Sile Grips were his favorite for his J frames. I was able to find a set on eBay and put them on my 340M&P. I recently acquired a 66 no Dash and was looking for new grips for it and found these. I purchased them and ran them on the 66 no dash. I really liked the feel and balance. Since the no dash is not a carry gun, I decided to put them on the 66-8. If you can find them, I recommend them.

[Crusader8207]

Oh, very nice! You aren’t helping the gravitational pull for me! Full length rod. Happy extracting and ejecting!

BTW - Let’s see a pic of the right side? It will help everyone, (especially some folks), if we just don’t see the lock and can pretend it never happened.

Here ya go.


34147

[medmo]

From back before he sold spring kits ;-)

Yeah, “Federal primers only” = range toy only for me. YMMV.

Haha, yeah, more likely before he started hanging out with lawyers.

[medmo]

I tried replacing the factory mainspring with a standard weight power rib spring, and got lots of misfires. It was reliable with the factory mainspring, but the DA pull was heavier than I prefer. The C&S firing pin and power rib spring made it reliable with Federal primers only, but the gun was going to potentially be used for defensive shooting, so that was a non-starter.

I don’t have any experience with C&S springs but I haven’t had any problems with the Wolff springs I’ve used.

[medmo]

Here ya go.


34147

See? That makes things, (especially for some of us, no names mentioned), so much better! Thanks!

[FPS]

I tried replacing the factory mainspring with a standard weight power rib spring, and got lots of misfires. It was reliable with the factory mainspring, but the DA pull was heavier than I prefer. The C&S firing pin and power rib spring made it reliable with Federal primers only, but the gun was going to potentially be used for defensive shooting, so that was a non-starter.

I’ve had the same problem on 3 recent production Smiths and 1 Ruger. Tried both Wilson Combat and Wolff mainsprings and a Power Customs firing pin and always experienced too many misfires with CCI primers. I have a batch of Winchester primers to test out but like HCM, I prefer my revolvers to fire anything. I guess I am one of the unlucky ones.

[Port]

Thanks HCM - thanks everyone.

I’m not going to lie, I think you guys have “frightened” me more than encouraged me lol! All said and done, I know I’d do a trigger job on it, but if it came out of the box junk, that wouldn’t help much, and I’m not sure I’d know better.

Guys, my buddy got his S&W given to him by his dad. His dad used to compete with it. Firing it in single action, was the first time I’d ever been “surprised” by the break with a handgun. Shooting in double action was almost more of a pleasure than single. You could easily squeeze the trigger and keep the sights steady it was so smooth. And it hit what you aimed at! It was a thing of beauty... that’s the rabbit I’ll be chasing.

Lol. It’s all good, I’ve got a G48 I should probably get before the 66. But you just never know. That 66 is just calling my name :)

[medmo]

Thanks HCM - thanks everyone.

I’m not going to lie, I think you guys have “frightened” me more than encouraged me lol! All said and done, I know I’d do a trigger job on it, but if it came out of the box junk, that wouldn’t help much, and I’m not sure I’d know better.

Guys, my buddy got his S&W given to him by his dad. His dad used to compete with it. Firing it in single action, was the first time I’d ever been “surprised” by the break with a handgun. Shooting in double action was almost more of a pleasure than single. You could easily squeeze the trigger and keep the sights steady it was so smooth. And it hit what you aimed at! It was a thing of beauty... that’s the rabbit I’ll be chasing.

Lol. It’s all good, I’ve got a G48 I should probably get before the 66. But you just never know. That 66 is just calling my name :)

C’mon, what happened to the fearless Port we all know and love? Seriously, not a lot to be afraid about here. In the very unlikely event you had an ignition problem with a reduced hammer spring it could be resolved. These things aren’t magical mystery devices. It’s all mechanics.

[Jim Watson]

The current MIM parts have their pros and cons but one limitation is they are only surface hardened which limits how much they can be polished or buffed without causing serious issues.

That has been a characteristic of S&W lockwork parts for the past century or so. It is not limited to MIM. All the old literature warns against stoning through the case hardening.

Reducing spring strength without reducing friction is a crapshoot. The guns are built so the weakest spring in the roughest gun will still shoot. You might get lucky, you might not. My only carry revolvers are J frames. The M640 got a "duty action job" including reduced power springs. It fires CCIs and rebounds fine. The M38 is stock and will not fire CCI primers with anything but a standard mainspring.

The Wolff "Power Rib" spring has a bad characteristic. The tip of the strain screw drops into the concave side of the "rib" and reduces preload. It might be enough reduction to affect ignition. I have one gun that I had to shim the strain screw back out of the groove with a primer cup to get it to fire even Federals.

[medmo]

I’ve had the same problem on 3 recent production Smiths and 1 Ruger. Tried both Wilson Combat and Wolff mainsprings and a Power Customs firing pin and always experienced too many misfires with CCI primers. I have a batch of Winchester primers to test out but like HCM, I prefer my revolvers to fire anything. I guess I am one of the unlucky ones.

Have you tried the C&S firing pin?

https://www.brownells.com/handgun-parts/action-parts/firing-pin-parts/firing-pins/s-w-revolver-extra-length-firing-pin-prod5483.aspx

It might be labeled “extended” but it also might be “in spec” for your revolver to run with a lighter hammer spring. The 327NG series had people reporting ignition problems and returning their revolvers for repair. I installed the C&S in mine. Man, I just love counting the cylinders on this thing.

[echo5charlie]

I just made the decision to grab a new 66 2.75" for my next distraction. I was going to run a TDA pistol for 2019 but I am having a hell of a time with the DA/SA transition. My j-frame shooting I have found to be more enjoyable. So, after much reading and researching I decided that I will be running a revolver this year.

[Stephanie B]

The funny thing is Jerry M shoots full power springs as guns with lighter springs reset too slowly.
Doesn't he use extra-strong reset springs to get a faster reset, to the point that his guns need a stronger rebound slide stud?

[Sherman A. House DDS]

Does this 66 have a barrel sleeve? Or is it a monolithic barrel, like the old guns?

I have an old model 66, 2.5”, and if I ONLY had that, I’d be quite happy with the situation.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190113/9ef071757df6e207f3a4631cba2cee6f.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Stephanie B]

34155

Man, I just love counting the cylinders on this thing.

OK.... One. :)

[HCM]

Doesn't he use extra-strong reset springs to get a faster reset, to the point that his guns need a stronger rebound slide stud?

I don’t recal that but it would make sense.

[medmo]

OK.... One. :)

Haha! Yeah, too late to edit. It’s a shame that “holes” never made it next to “cylinder.” Simplifies the counting though.

[Spartan1980]

When you lighten the mainspring you slow the hammer velocity. To get it back up to where it needs to be there are two things that will do it. Reducing friction (minimal) and lightening the hammer (maximal).

Also, the main spring and rebound slide spring are "in a balance" with each other. They need to stay that way. Too light a rebound spring and the trigger won't fully reset. There is some room to play with the rebound slide spring, but it can make the trigger reset get sluggish real quick if you start backing off in substantial amounts without doing likewise on the main spring.

[SeriousStudent]

We need a "revolver tinkering hints" thread. This is very, very interesting stuff. :)

[Port]

Does this 66 have a barrel sleeve? Or is it a monolithic barrel, like the old guns?

I have an old model 66, 2.5”, and if I ONLY had that, I’d be quite happy with the situation.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190113/9ef071757df6e207f3a4631cba2cee6f.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That’s pretty encouraging!!

The “new” 66’s have the barrel sleeve.

[oregon45]

Properly assembled, the two-piece barrel/shroud assembly should be no problem. The issue with S&W's current quality control is that you cannot be assured that the gun you receive will be properly assembled.

2.5" M66's are a fair bit more common than the 3" guns and just as much fun to shoot; the short ejector rod can be annoying with .357 Mag cases when the chambers get dirty, but it's easy enough to manage once you get used to it. I've got a 2.5" as well, here it is along with the 3". The picture will give you an idea of the difference in the length of the ejector rods:

https://i.imgur.com/rnV8qXY.jpg?1

[medmo]

We need a "revolver tinkering hints" thread. This is very, very interesting stuff. :)

We have kind of drifted a bit, huh?

Here is a good article that goes over the basic smooth and tune:

https://www.pewpewtactical.com/sw-revolver-trigger-job-how-to/

[Port]

We have kind of drifted a bit, huh?

Here is a good article that goes over the basic smooth and tune:

https://www.pewpewtactical.com/sw-revolver-trigger-job-how-to/

I’m ok with drift. If anyone wants to talk about how and/or why they carry a k frame, that would be cool too.

[HCM]

We need a "revolver tinkering hints" thread. This is very, very interesting stuff. :)

Which reminds me of LSP972 (RIP).

[TGS]

2.5" M66's are a fair bit more common than the 3" guns and just as much fun to shoot; the short ejector rod can be annoying with .357 Mag cases when the chambers get dirty, but it's easy enough to manage once you get used to it.

Beautiful.

Personally, I've found the FLETC reload to largely mitigate ejection concerns with the 2.5" variant. FBI reload is problematic, and in general the non-hand-transfer reload just isn't reliable for me with a K-frame to begin with...too big, can't control the cylinder well enough like with a J-frame.

Port, just get a used pre-lock Combat Magnum. You won't be disappointed. I sold my first, a 4" 19-4, because it was trying to pare down my inventory and I only shot it once per year. I realized what a mistake that was when I picked up one of my agency's retired service revolvers, the 2.5" 19-5 with a wide, flat combat trigger. It's an absolute dream to shoot, and the highest scores I've ever posted on the 200-Drill have been with it. I don't want to shoot it out, so I had a gunsmith special overhauled into a beater range gun, as seen here. (https://pistol-forum.com/showthread.php?31992-Risen-from-the-Dead-S-amp-W-19-4-Combat-Magnum-2-5-quot)

They're awesome guns, man. Really inspiring pieces. One of my friends has a current production 2.75" Model 66, and the build quality is tangibly lower and is nowhere near as enjoyable to shoot.

As for carrying it, I have a holster, speed loaders and quality self defense ammo, but I always wear my Glock 19M instead. As much as I love it, I choose pragmatism over "the feels". It's simply a gun of passion for me, pure and simple.

[medmo]

Beautiful.

Personally, I've found the FLETC reload to largely mitigate ejection concerns with the 2.5" variant. FBI reload is problematic, and in general the non-hand-transfer reload just isn't reliable for me with a K-frame to begin with...too big, can't control the cylinder well enough like with a J-frame.

Port, just get a used pre-lock Combat Magnum. You won't be disappointed. I sold my first, a 4" 19-4, because it was trying to pare down my inventory and I only shot it once per year. I realized what a mistake that was when I picked up one of my agency's retired service revolvers, the 2.5" 19-5 with a wide, flat combat trigger. It's an absolute dream to shoot, and the highest scores I've ever posted on the 200-Drill have been with it. I don't want to shoot it out, so I had a gunsmith special overhauled into a beater range gun, as seen here. (https://pistol-forum.com/showthread.php?31992-Risen-from-the-Dead-S-amp-W-19-4-Combat-Magnum-2-5-quot)

They're awesome guns, man. Really inspiring pieces. One of my friends hasko a current production 2.75" Model 66, and the build quality is tangibly lower and is nowhere near as enjoyable to shoot.

As for carrying it, I have a holster, speed loaders and quality self defense ammo, but I always wear my Glock 19M instead. As much as I love it, I choose pragmatism over "the feels". It's simply a gun of passion for me, pure and simple.

Pointing the revolver skyward and wrapping the ejector rod is very effective for ejecting spent shells. Rarely, (especially high pressure 357 mags), an empty case will need extra help with a short ejector rod. The fact is that any revolver reload is a drag and takes an eternity compared to a semi auto mag change. The full length ejector solves the problem every time and won’t leave any stragglers Think 3” Model 13, one time FBI issue service revolver. That would also be an excellent choice if Port starts looking at legacy K frames.

Carrying a second one can minimize revolver reload anxiety.

[revchuck38]

If anyone wants to talk about how and/or why they carry a k frame, that would be cool too.

The "why" is easy - they're the sweetest revolvers on God's green earth. :)

Up front, I've retired my M10-8 from full-time carry duty since I've decided to follow Tom Givens' advice about carrying something with at least 10 rounds on tap. I do strap it on occasionally and don't feel defenseless when it's on, since I can shoot it well and the old school LSWC-HPs are still an effective choice.

For the "how", I'll use either an OWB or IWB holster at 3:30 with a double speedloader carrier at about 1:00. The traditional FBI cant works best for me, but there are folks who prefer straight-drop holsters. With an IWB holster, a K frame square butt prints about the same or a bit less than a G43 (unless you're using fat grips on the revolver).

[Port]

For the "how", I'll use either an OWB or IWB holster at 3:30 with a double speedloader carrier at about 1:00. The traditional FBI cant works best for me, but there are folks who prefer straight-drop holsters. With an IWB holster, a K frame square butt prints about the same or a bit less than a G43 (unless you're using fat grips on the revolver).

I have a 43 and it doesn’t print hardly at all! So that bodes well. I’d have to think about it some more, but off the cuff I think I’d rather 6 rounds of .357 than 7 rounds of 9mm. Of course I can reload my 43 very quickly.

If it prints that little, I’m even more excited. I’m really not a round whore so...

[Stephanie B]

We have kind of drifted a bit, huh?

Here is a good article that goes over the basic smooth and tune:

https://www.pewpewtactical.com/sw-revolver-trigger-job-how-to/

I don't know about them. They had an article listing the "9 Best .357 Magnum Revolvers" (https://www.pewpewtactical.com/best-357-magnum-revolvers/), and two were Tauruses. Maybe I'm biased, but in my view, anyone who would list a couple of Taurus revolvers alongside the Colt Python and the S&W Model 27 probably needs professional help.

[OlongJohnson]

The real content of that piece is other peoples' YouTube videos. Hard to derpify those too much. One is at least MidwayUSA.

[paul105]

One of my favorite range guns is the 2 ¾” M66-8. I ran some limited accuracy tests when I first got it and settled on 13.0gr of A2400 under a 165gr CSWCGC. I’m sure other loads could be developed but I have a bunch of the 165s.

No problems to date thru 900 rnds (have a 4 ¼” M66 with 2,800 rnds – no problems either). Never had a “light hit” with either the M66 or M69 (have about 12,000 rnds thru 4 M69s) even though I have had to tighten loose strain screws several times during periodic maint.

I shoot both (66 & 69s) double action but have never messed with any springs. I want my guns to fire no matter what primer or ammo is in the gun. I don’t shoot competition, so I’m probably missing something.

The 2 ¾” S&W K & L frames that I have are a lot of fun, are plenty accurate and reliable. Of course, individual guns can/will vary.
I’m mostly a recreational shooter, so I can’t really comment on potential tactical service.

Took the 2 ¾” M66 with the 165/12 2400 to the range this afternoon. Plate rack with various geometric forms at 27 to full size popper at 75 yds with various sized poppers in between. Ran out of ammo before I ran out of fun.


https://photos.imageevent.com/paul105/hobby/large/1a%20M66%202.75%2025%20yd%20target%2013.1%20%2013. 6%20%20IMG_1448.jpg

Here’s a light load that I tested with good results – bottom group.
https://photos.imageevent.com/paul105/hobby/large/158%20Bayou%20WST%2066-8%202.75%20thumbnail_IMG_1819.jpg

For the purposes that the OP stated, I say go for it.

Paul

[medmo]

For the purposes that the OP stated, I say go for it.

Paul

Very nice! I agree.

[Crusader8207]

Any suggestions for holsters for the 66?

[paul105]

Holsters – A lot depends on what you are going to use it for. I’ve got a couple of boxes filled with holsters – leather, kydex, IWB, OWB, strongside, crossdraw, shoulder, etc. With that said, I only get out every day for 1 to 1 ½ hrs with the dog and just put the 2 ¾” guns in the right hip pocket of my Carharts. Since hip surgery, I tend to avoid strongside belt holsters. When bow hunting elk, I use a Bianchi Cyclone 111 (strongside/cross draw) carried cross draw over my clothing and available to either hand.

Don’t think you could go wrong with the Bianchi Cyclone 111. Compact, lightweight, and can be worn strongside or crossdraw.


For general use, a simply rugged sourdough pancake is a pretty good option. They can be carried strongside or crossdraw and are comfortable, secure, and versatile (with optional IWB straps and Chesty Puller chest straps). Only problem is reholstering can be a bit cumbersome requiring two hands. In my younger days, I carried my 329 in one all day every day for the better part of a decade. The holster in the picture (probably 15 yrs old) was one of the first Rob made (hand sewn) – current quality of both materials and workmanship is much different/better.

https://photos.imageevent.com/paul105/hobby/large/329%20045.jpg

Probably more than you wanted to know.

Holsters are very much a personal choice, so I’m sure others on the forum can provide their suggestions.

Paul

[deputyG23]

The "why" is easy - they're the sweetest revolvers on God's green earth. :)

Up front, I've retired my M10-8 from full-time carry duty since I've decided to follow Tom Givens' advice about carrying something with at least 10 rounds on tap. I do strap it on occasionally and don't feel defenseless when it's on, since I can shoot it well and the old school LSWC-HPs are still an effective choice.

For the "how", I'll use either an OWB or IWB holster at 3:30 with a double speedloader carrier at about 1:00. The traditional FBI cant works best for me, but there are folks who prefer straight-drop holsters. With an IWB holster, a K frame square butt prints about the same or a bit less than a G43 (unless you're using fat grips on the revolver).

Which speedloader carrier do you use and for which speedloader? Concealment carriers are hard to find now for K Smiths in my experience. I use mostly HKS but do have several Safariland ones around the house.

[revchuck38]

Which speedloader carrier do you use and for which speedloader? Concealment carriers are hard to find now for K Smiths in my experience. I use mostly HKS but do have several Safariland ones around the house.

This isn't going to help, since they were discontinued about ten years ago, but here's what I use.

3421234213

I got it, plus two N frame versions and some singles, from (IIRC) Speed Shooter Specialties. I have Comp IIs in there now but it works with HKS and Jet too.

[deputyG23]

This isn't going to help, since they were discontinued about ten years ago, but here's what I use.

3421234213

I got it, plus two N frame versions and some singles, from (IIRC) Speed Shooter Specialties. I have Comp IIs in there now but it works with HKS and Jet too.

Thanks. Ebay might be my friend in this endeavor.

[HCM]

Holsters – A lot depends on what you are going to use it for. I’ve got a couple of boxes filled with holsters – leather, kydex, IWB, OWB, strongside, crossdraw, shoulder, etc. With that said, I only get out every day for 1 to 1 ½ hrs with the dog and just put the 2 ¾” guns in the right hip pocket of my Carharts. Since hip surgery, I tend to avoid strongside belt holsters. When bow hunting elk, I use a Bianchi Cyclone 111 (strongside/cross draw) carried cross draw over my clothing and available to either hand.

Don’t think you could go wrong with the Bianchi Cyclone 111. Compact, lightweight, and can be worn strongside or crossdraw.


For general use, a simply rugged sourdough pancake is a pretty good option. They can be carried strongside or crossdraw and are comfortable, secure, and versatile (with optional IWB straps and Chesty Puller chest straps). Only problem is reholstering can be a bit cumbersome requiring two hands. In my younger days, I carried my 329 in one all day every day for the better part of a decade. The holster in the picture (probably 15 yrs old) was one of the first Rob made (hand sewn) – current quality of both materials and workmanship is much different/better.

https://photos.imageevent.com/paul105/hobby/large/329%20045.jpg

Probably more than you wanted to know.

Holsters are very much a personal choice, so I’m sure others on the forum can provide their suggestions.

Paul

The dowside to the pancake holsters you mentioned is IME they tend to collapse and make reholstering an issue. The cyclone is pretty need, I have the Galco version and it is a handy outdoors holster.

[sharps54]

Huh, I use the Safariland 371 (the split six leather holder) and it appears it has been discontinued. That’s ok, once all the new bans come through they’ll start making revolver stuff again. :rolleyes: (that’s sarcasm ya’ll)

[Lester Polfus]

The folks at the revolverguy blog have some articles about speedloader carriage that might be of interest. (https://revolverguy.com/?s=speedloader)

[TGS]

The folks at the revolverguy blog have some articles about speedloader carriage that might be of interest. (https://revolverguy.com/?s=speedloader)

Neat blog, I wish they had more articles though!

I especially liked this one, giving a historical view on speedloader usage: https://revolverguy.com/blast-past-popular-police-speedloaders-1970s/

rsa-otc, blast from the past?

[BobM]

I was on the Ted Blocker website a few days ago and I noticed it still lists a speedloader carrier made of heavy wire that holds the loader so that it straddles the belt. I used one many years ago and I recall that it worked well. IIRC it was designed by Mas Ayoob. Mas.

[revchuck38]

Oh, like these? :)

34220

[Mas]

I was on the Ted Blocker website a few days ago and I noticed it still lists a speedloader carrier made of heavy wire that holds the loader so that it straddles the belt. I used one many years ago and I recall that it worked well. IIRC it was designed by Mas Ayoob. Mas.

Wish it was, 'cause it was a neat idea I strongly endorsed, but I'm pretty sure Ted Blocker himself came up with that one.

[Stephanie B]

Oh, like these? :)

34220

Do you like them?

[revchuck38]

Do you like them?

They worked okay. It’s been over ten years since I’ve used them. They work best for N frame HKS loaders since they immobilize the four rounds that straddle the belt so you don’t have that rattle. I carried them behind the holster at 4-5 o’clock, I’d probably carry them in front of the holster now. I noticed that they don’t fit on a double thickness belt with a liner but were fine without the liner.

[medmo]

I just made the decision to grab a new 66 2.75" for my next distraction. I was going to run a TDA pistol for 2019 but I am having a hell of a time with the DA/SA transition. My j-frame shooting I have found to be more enjoyable. So, after much reading and researching I decided that I will be running a revolver this year.

If you decide to re-decide on that decision with the TDA pistol I recommend the Px4 Compact Carry with a Langdon Tact Tech 11# hammer spring. It’s like butter.

[medmo]

Do you like them?

Oh, geez, messing with my OCD brain. I look at that pic and there is stuff just laying all over the place.

Seriously, though.... Based on my experience speed loaders are all bulky and hard to carry no matter where you put them. Unless you are up in the great white north in mid winter and have deep, fluffy, down filled pockets to carry them they are cumbersome. So, speed strips work for me. I know they are a whole lot slower but trust me I’ll be looking for cover to reload any revolver I’m carrying if necessary.

[rsa-otc]

Neat blog, I wish they had more articles though!

I especially liked this one, giving a historical view on speedloader usage: https://revolverguy.com/blast-past-popular-police-speedloaders-1970s/

rsa-otc, blast from the past?

Oh Ya, I haven't seen many of those in a few decades. Everyone seemed to settle on either the HKS or Safariland loaders. With Safariland the Comp I and II's pretty much ruled the roost for defensive use. Personally I liked the comp I's the best, but except for J frames I haven't seen any for sale since the late 80's. I still have a Dade and A Comp I for K Frames.

After listening to Caleb Giddings talk about the Speed Bs Loader on a recent P&S Podcast I was all ready to be excited about a "New" possibility of a improved loader until I looked at it on the web and realized that it seemed to basically be a Dade loader re-envisioned. At $30 plus dollars it is to pricey for me to try it and see if it has the Dade shortcomings.

For my rank and file I find the HKS to be more serviceable. The only issue is from time to time I find the wall between the cartridges cracks causing the cartridge to hang up in the loader. For those who are more turned on and take this seriously I prefer the Safariland Comp II's for carry and Comp IIIs for Competition.

[rsa-otc]

Oh, like these? :)

34220

I've used these with good success as well. While you can make them work with the Safariland Loaders, unless Ted blocker put out a special version for Comp IIs they work best with HKS loaders.

[jtcarm]

As to the spending an extra $100 on a new gun, I don’t own a gun that I haven’t spent at least that much on getting it the way I like it.

One often overlooked advantage of the current M-66 is the ease of switching front sights. I own 3 M66s. The -3 gets the least work because I hate that 1/8” ramp. The other two have FO fronts I installed myself.

Grips: when shooting a 2 3/4” medium frame magnum, I want a fair sized chunk of rubber to grab on to. I put the original Spegel-designed UM rubber grips back on my EDC M-64. Much easier on the web of the hand, more to grab with the weak hand, and conceals just as well. Another pair lives on my 66-7 to handle magnums.

[medmo]

As to the spending an extra $100 on a new gun, I don’t own a gun that I haven’t spent at least that much on getting it the way I like it.

One often overlooked advantage of the current M-66 is the ease of switching front sights. I own 3 M66s. The -3 gets the least work because I hate that 1/8” ramp. The other two have FO fronts I installed myself.

Grips: when shooting a 2 3/4” medium frame magnum, I want a fair sized chunk of rubber to grab on to. I put the original Spegel-designed UM rubber grips back on my EDC M-64. Much easier on the web of the hand, more to grab with the weak hand, and conceals just as well. Another pair lives on my 66-7 to handle magnums.

+1 on the ability to have options on a front sight. Very true.

[FrankinCA]

I have my eye on that revolver . I just picked up a Kimber K6. The 66 looks better in person. I prefer Vz or ahrends grips.

Love all those 19 and 66 pictures.

[1986s4]

One of my favorite range guns is the 2 ¾” M66-8. I ran some limited accuracy tests when I first got it and settled on 13.0gr of A2400 under a 165gr CSWCGC. I’m sure other loads could be developed but I have a bunch of the 165s.

No problems to date thru 900 rnds (have a 4 ¼” M66 with 2,800 rnds – no problems either). Never had a “light hit” with either the M66 or M69 (have about 12,000 rnds thru 4 M69s) even though I have had to tighten loose strain screws several times during periodic maint.

I shoot both (66 & 69s) double action but have never messed with any springs. I want my guns to fire no matter what primer or ammo is in the gun. I don’t shoot competition, so I’m probably missing something.

The 2 ¾” S&W K & L frames that I have are a lot of fun, are plenty accurate and reliable. Of course, individual guns can/will vary.
I’m mostly a recreational shooter, so I can’t really comment on potential tactical service.

Took the 2 ¾” M66 with the 165/12 2400 to the range this afternoon. Plate rack with various geometric forms at 27 to full size popper at 75 yds with various sized poppers in between. Ran out of ammo before I ran out of fun.


https://photos.imageevent.com/paul105/hobby/large/1a%20M66%202.75%2025%20yd%20target%2013.1%20%2013. 6%20%20IMG_1448.jpg

Here’s a light load that I tested with good results – bottom group.
https://photos.imageevent.com/paul105/hobby/large/158%20Bayou%20WST%2066-8%202.75%20thumbnail_IMG_1819.jpg

For the purposes that the OP stated, I say go for it.

Paul

I've looked at the new M66 at my LGS and like it a lot but, based on my experience [of one] I am reluctant to buy a new Smith revo because my last and only new Smith had a canted barrel. Was yours G2G right out of the box?

[paul105]

I have 6 of the new K & L frame S&Ws with the two piece barrels -- all were good to go from the get go -- no canted barrels. Of course that doesn't mean it can't happen (heavy handed install, poor QA/QC -- our old buddy Murphy is always with us), although with the two piece barrel (shroud "key/lock to frame") I don't see how it could happen very often (but then again, I'm not an engineer or machinist)


FWIW,

Paul

[OlongJohnson]

I've read up on M67s a bit, and found some reports (or possibly just one or two repeated) that some users have found the two-piece barrels to be more accurate than the earlier ones, in spite of the soul leak. Benos, most likely.

If you don't need to shoot magnums, the 67 is interesting due to the shorter cylinder. It should be infinitesimally easier to get rolling and make a smaller impact when it stops suddenly, so it may be easier to pull the trigger fast and it may last longer before going out of time with lots of DA shooting and dry fire.

If I was going to shoot IDPA with a revolver, I'd think of it as sporting equipment and just look for a 67-6 in a readily-correctable state of defectivity. Find an FFL with a stack of them and pick the best one. If I wanted something to be nice, I'd probably look for a clean -4 in a readily-correctable state of defectivity and wear.

I haven't noticed that clean 3-inch, pre-lock M64s seem to go for much less than clean 3-inch, pre-lock M65s.

My second (of two) premium-spec Airlite S&W is currently back at the factory, hoping to get factory defects corrected (necessitating replacing parts) without new problems being created, for whatever that's worth.

[entropy]

Life often takes me away from this board. It’s nice to know that whenever I have a couple extra bucks in my pocket, visiting here with my morning coffee instantly removes that conumdrum.

[rsa-otc]

I've read up on M67s a bit, and found some reports (or possibly just one or two repeated) that some users have found the two-piece barrels to be more accurate than the earlier ones, in spite of the soul leak. Benos, most likely.

If you don't need to shoot magnums, the 67 is interesting due to the shorter cylinder. It should be infinitesimally easier to get rolling and make a smaller impact when it stops suddenly, so it may be easier to pull the trigger fast and it may last longer before going out of time with lots of DA shooting and dry fire.

If I was going to shoot IDPA with a revolver, I'd think of it as sporting equipment and just look for a 67-6 in a readily-correctable state of defectivity. Find an FFL with a stack of them and pick the best one. If I wanted something to be nice, I'd probably look for a clean -4 in a readily-correctable state of defectivity and wear.

I haven't noticed that clean 3-inch, pre-lock M64s seem to go for much less than clean 3-inch, pre-lock M65s.

My second (of two) premium-spec Airlite S&W is currently back at the factory, hoping to get factory defects corrected (necessitating replacing parts) without new problems being created, for whatever that's worth.

I shoot a 686 in IDPA and when I carry a revolver at work it's a K Frame. While I don't notice the difference in mass between a Model 10/64 or 13/65 cylinder, I can tell the difference in the trigger pull between a K frame & L Frame cylinders. I do know is that my splits are measurably faster using a K Frame and I always attributed this to the difference in the cylinder mass. Also my trigger finger tires more quickly during long training seasons when I use a L frame.

I can't say there an increased wear factor between the two. My 686 has so many rounds through it the bolt and center pin were worn where they are in contact to the point that the bolt was interfering with the back of the hammer and the center pin wasn't pushing the front cylinder lock totally out. But the timing on the gun is still true after all those rounds.

[Port]

Well, I finally got to hold a 66 yesterday! Unfortunately it was the 4”, but still, what a beautiful, beautiful handgun.

34687

It just floated in my hand. I will be getting th 2.75”. There’s no question.

[Crusader8207]

Took mine to the range on Saturday. Love the gun, very accurate out of the box. I had issues with the Wilson Combat mainspring and went back to stock (stock rebound spring, just polished). Issues went away, so the gun will remain stock. The issue I was having is I was getting a misfire every other trigger pull. I had experienced it during dry fire but thought it was due to short stroking the trigger. After reinstalling the stock mainspring, the issue is gone.

[Sherman A. House DDS]

I know it sounds very, almost, Russian of me to propose, but I gave up a few years ago trying to get my revolver triggers uniformly smooth/lighter than stock.

Not only did I have issues like you’re having, I had issues with varying brands of ammo...some worked and some didn’t. To that end, I took it upon my self to improve the weakest link in any revolver/shooter interface, and that’s the man in the mirror.

I don’t specifically do any hand strengthening exercises, like the CAPTAINS OF CRUSH, but I DO exercises where my hand/forearm strength come into play. Couple that with my day job, wrenching teeth out of people’s skulls, and I’ve yet to meet a trigger that I couldn’t work through the pull on, and the, “smoothness,” comes after wearing in the parts through dry-practice and live-fire. YMMV.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Crusader8207]

I appreciate your insight. I am finding as I dry practice more with the revolver, it is becoming less of an issue. I probably have over 500 dry practice trigger pulls and it is soothing out nicely. Stock is working for me now.


I know it sounds very, almost, Russian of me to propose, but I gave up a few years ago trying to get my revolver triggers uniformly smooth/lighter than stock.

Not only did I have issues like you’re having, I had issues with varying brands of ammo...some worked and some didn’t. To that end, I took it upon my self to improve the weakest link in any revolver/shooter interface, and that’s the man in the mirror.

I don’t specifically do any hand strengthening exercises, like the CAPTAINS OF CRUSH, but I DO exercises where my hand/forearm strength come into play. Couple that with my day job, wrenching teeth out of people’s skulls, and I’ve yet to meet a trigger that I couldn’t work through the pull on, and the, “smoothness,” comes after wearing in the parts through dry-practice and live-fire. YMMV.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[jtcarm]

I know it sounds very, almost, Russian of me to propose, but I gave up a few years ago trying to get my revolver triggers uniformly smooth/lighter than stock.

Not only did I have issues like you’re having, I had issues with varying brands of ammo...some worked and some didn’t. To that end, I took it upon my self to improve the weakest link in any revolver/shooter interface, and that’s the man in the mirror.

I don’t specifically do any hand strengthening exercises, like the CAPTAINS OF CRUSH, but I DO exercises where my hand/forearm strength come into play. Couple that with my day job, wrenching teeth out of people’s skulls, and I’ve yet to meet a trigger that I couldn’t work through the pull on, and the, “smoothness,” comes after wearing in the parts through dry-practice and live-fire. YMMV.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I do COC also and it sure helps. I can take a much stronger grip without shaking.

I still like a smooth DA trigger of no more than 10 lbs though.

[03RN]

I’m ok with drift. If anyone wants to talk about how and/or why they carry a k frame, that would be cool too.

Talking about the new m66-8 with 2 3/4" barrels I have to say they handle perfectly for me. I'll get one eventually.

I really like carrying my k frames in my JM custom aiwb holster for EDC or my Elpasso saddlery Threepersons for woods use. I also have a Ryan Grizzle horsehide iwb for times I feel like carrying at 4 o'clock.

A 4" m19 is back as my edc now that it's fixed. I keep my right pocket empty except for 1-2 speed loaders.

I do have a m64 for backup
34798
34799348003480134802

And my wife's m67 and holster
34803
34804

[Port]

Thanks 03RN - great pics/handguns. It seems that I might be a little less patient about getting a 66 than you are at this point. But that might have more to do with the fact that I don’t have a wheel gun in my collection anymore. And that’s just not right!

I have to admit that i’ve been playing with the notion that I might get a 63 first to practice with, all this ammo is sending me to the poor house :D. A nice .22 to practice trigger control with might be just what the doctor ordered. Man! 4 cents a round...

https://snwcdnprod.azureedge.net/sites/default/files/styles/product_main/public/firearms/images/162634_01_lg_1.jpg?itok=8u6EMbxD


I know they sell k-frame .22s, which would better simulate the 66, but it just seems wrong to me. A .22 in my mind should be small.

[Duelist]

Thanks 03RN - great pics/handguns. It seems that I might be a little less patient about getting a 66 than you are at this point. But that might have more to do with the fact that I don’t have a wheel gun in my collection anymore. And that’s just not right!

I have to admit that i’ve been playing with the notion that I might get a 63 first to practice with, all this ammo is sending me to the poor house :D. A nice .22 to practice trigger control with might be just what the doctor ordered. Man! 4 cents a round...

https://snwcdnprod.azureedge.net/sites/default/files/styles/product_main/public/firearms/images/162634_01_lg_1.jpg?itok=8u6EMbxD


I know they sell k-frame .22s, which would better simulate the 66, but it just seems wrong to me. A .22 in my mind should be small.

None of mine are: Ruger MKII & Single Six, and S&W M18. That 18 is sweet. Try one out, you’ll like it.

[sharps54]

Port I think you’ll find the K frames in .22 have better triggers than the smaller J frames.