Glock aftermarket trigger kits that don’t compromise safety.

[Clobbersaurus]

So, IPSC has changed their rules and are allowing after market trigger kits and pulls down to 3lbs. As much as I hate to admit it, shaving 2.5lbs off my Gen 5’s trigger would be kinda helpful on tight shots. One thing I don’t want to do though, is compromise safety.

So I ask humbly for your recommendations, as I know virtually nothing about after market triggers. Also, maybe I can tinker with my trigger myself and get it down to 3lbs with a combination of springs and widgets and connectors? Would love to hear thoughts about this as well.

[YVK]

Last time I heard from GJM how awesome Johnny Glock triggers were was...4 hours ago. The word is that safeties are intact.
DK triggers also have their following.

[NickDrak]

Easy way to drop a solid pound off the factory pull is to replace the factory safety plunger spring for a Wolf reduced power safety plunger spring. I have never seen a reduced power safety plunger spring cause any issues unless it was improperly installed.

Id recommend you avoid messing with the striker spring as it will almost always lead to light primer strikes.

The Ghost 3.5 "EDGE" connector has been reliable in every Glock I've owned. I have not tried any of their lighter connectors.

[JBP55]

So, IPSC has changed their rules and are allowing after market trigger kits and pulls down to 3lbs. As much as I hate to admit it, shaving 2.5lbs off my Gen 5’s trigger would be kinda helpful on tight shots. One thing I don’t want to do though, is compromise safety.

So I ask humbly for your recommendations, as I know virtually nothing about after market triggers. Also, maybe I can tinker with my trigger myself and get it down to 3lbs with a combination of springs and widgets and connectors? Would love to hear thoughts about this as well.

Polish all trigger components including a 4.5# OEM connector and install a 4.5# firing pin spring. This will reduce your trigger pull weight by approximately 1# 8oz. and should be reliable for pistol matches.

[JBP55]

Last time I heard from GJM how awesome Johnny Glock triggers were was...4 hours ago. The word is that safeties are intact.
DK triggers also have their following.

Two of the best.

[einherjarvalk]

I've been a pretty big fan of the Overwatch Precision offerings. I've got a TAC in my main G19.4 squeeze and the flat trigger face does wonders for helping me index my finger in the right spot every time. Takeup is significantly reduced as well, and all safeties are maintained.

Currently waiting to see if they're gonna drop a new PolyDAT for the Gen 5 before I drop one into my "backup" Glock.

[GJM]

I installed a JohnnyGlocks competition trigger and polished striker in a G5 17 that is going to Primary for a direct milled DP Pro, and it is absolutely the single best Glock trigger I have felt. My wife agrees.

[JBP55]

I installed a JohnnyGlocks competition trigger and polished striker in a G5 17 that is going to Primary for a direct milled DP Pro, and it is absolutely the single best Glock trigger I have felt. My wife agrees.

I have the same trigger in a G19X and I agree it is great.

[nwhpfan]

You are going to get the most by changing springs. No geometry involved, little/no safety concerns...just springs. Heavy trigger return spring, lighter firing pin and firing pin safety plunger spring. Less than 10$.

Zev, minus, Ghost, Lone Wolf connectors....their is some subject differences but not worth the effort or time.

I do use an ejector block with an overtravel stop and I think it's well worth the $20.

I prefer a 5# striker spring. I used a 4.5# spring for a couple years until I either got some bad springs or bad primers. Wasn't worth it to find out so I just stick with the 5#.

[Nephrology]

If you want to go the budget route, I am very happy with the trigger I get from the Zev connector alone.

[JBP55]

You are going to get the most by changing springs. No geometry involved, little/no safety concerns...just springs. Heavy trigger return spring, lighter firing pin and firing pin safety plunger spring. Less than 10$.

Zev, minus, Ghost, Lone Wolf connectors....their is some subject differences but not worth the effort or time.

I do use an ejector block with an overtravel stop and I think it's well worth the $20.

I prefer a 5# striker spring. I used a 4.5# spring for a couple years until I either got some bad springs or bad primers. Wasn't worth it to find out so I just stick with the 5#.


The 4.5# firing pin spring works great with quality primers and with the OEM trigger spring. Best to leave the OEM trigger spring in a Glock for better trigger reset and reliability.
The Op. is referring to a Gen 5 Glock and it would probably be difficult to find an aftermarket spring for the trigger.

[BigT]

I'm really excited about them fixing the rules, and will be going back to shooting a Glock in Production Optics as opposed to my Shadow 2 now that the stupid trigger rule will be gone.

Eemann tech springs have been easier to get than Wolff ones so that's what I have been playing with. Their kit of Striker , firing pin safety and trigger spring combined with a factory 2kg connector has been awesome in my Gen4. Haven't had it on a trigger scale yet but its been reliable and very shootable.

Their striker spring and a factory 2kg gives about a 4.25-4.5lb trigger in a Gen5 that is very shootable, will be playing around a little more their when my 17 Gen5 MOS lands.

All safeties remain functional and the pistols have set off a variety of primers.

[spyderco monkey]

The trigger setup I'm most fond of, after a good bit of experimentation, is something I call the "Air Trigger."

-Fitz dremel wheel polish of internals and firing pin face. If rough edges are present, a slight deburr with ceramic stone by hand.
-Zev Firing pin safety kit
-Ghost Edge connector

The reason I call this the "Air Trigger" is that its incredibly smooth, with almost no wall or friction when pulled. Basically a smoother, lighter, shorter version of the Kahr DAO trigger.

[BigT]

I'm really excited about them fixing the rules, and will be going back to shooting a Glock in Production Optics as opposed to my Shadow 2 now that the stupid trigger rule will be gone.

Eemann tech springs have been easier to get than Wolff ones so that's what I have been playing with. Their kit of Striker , firing pin safety and trigger spring combined with a factory 2kg connector has been awesome in my Gen4. Haven't had it on a trigger scale yet but its been reliable and very shootable.

Their striker spring and a factory 2kg gives about a 4.25-4.5lb trigger in a Gen5 that is very shootable, will be playing around a little more their when my 17 Gen5 MOS lands.

All safeties remain functional and the pistols have set off a variety of primers.

Just got the Gen4 set up on a trigger scale.

Just on 4lb's.

[JHC]

I installed a JohnnyGlocks competition trigger and polished striker in a G5 17 that is going to Primary for a direct milled DP Pro, and it is absolutely the single best Glock trigger I have felt. My wife agrees.

Did you try the Taran Tactical Gen 5 kit and can you compare and contrast it with Johnny Glocks if you did?

The Taran set up in a couple Gen 5s of shooting buddies is the most amazing one I've tried. Seems to maintain the pre-travel and break smooth and clean. Much lighter than stock.

[JBP55]

Did you try the Taran Tactical Gen 5 kit and can you compare and contrast it with Johnny Glocks if you did?

The Taran set up in a couple Gen 5s of shooting buddies is the most amazing one I've tried. Seems to maintain the pre-travel and break smooth and clean. Much lighter than stock.

Prior to my Gen 5 Glocks I tried Vanek, DK, Johnny Glocks, OC, Taran, Vickers, Apex, Glockworks, Joe D and several others.
In Gen 5 I have Apex, Johnny Glocks, Vanek and Vickers..
Johnny Glocks will tune the trigger to your preference as far as trigger pull weight, type break, reset, pre travel, over travel, etc.
With many brands everyone gets the same trigger which is good but some shooters prefer more choices.

[Jaywalker]

Tom_Jones had a take on replacement triggers that persuaded me: https://pistol-forum.com/showthread.php?27262-CMC-flat-drop-in-Glock-triggers

His point was that
If I was looking for a Glock aftermarket trigger, I'd only get one that used an unmodified OEM trigger bar, maintained the firing pin block integrity, and had a properly functioning safety tab on the trigger (how to determine that is a topic that requires more time than I have available right now and involves a little hand waving). At the time, a year ago, his conclusion was that Overwatch Precision was the way to go.

[GJM]

Did you try the Taran Tactical Gen 5 kit and can you compare and contrast it with Johnny Glocks if you did?

The Taran set up in a couple Gen 5s of shooting buddies is the most amazing one I've tried. Seems to maintain the pre-travel and break smooth and clean. Much lighter than stock.


See post 16 below.

[Clobbersaurus]

Tom_Jones had a take on replacement triggers that persuaded me: https://pistol-forum.com/showthread.php?27262-CMC-flat-drop-in-Glock-triggers

His point was that At the time, a year ago, his conclusion was that Overwatch Precision was the way to go.

Thanks for this, this was the info I was looking for. I was going to ask Tom to comment, but didn’t want to bug him.

Edit: I also just wanted to say thanks to all those that contributed to this thread.

Personally, I’m not super picky about my triggers and can shoot everything reasonably well. People at the matches I attend tell me with with regularity that there’s no way they could shoot a Glock in production division because of the OEM trigger rules. I don’t really get it, because I never really thought it held me back, not for a second. But I will grudgingly admit that any hardware performance gain at my level is helpful. Better triggers are slightly more forgiving of input errors and shorter reset lengths help. But, to be 100% clear, I don’t think that “good” triggers are the crutch that many others do.

[JHC]

Tom_Jones had a take on replacement triggers that persuaded me: https://pistol-forum.com/showthread.php?27262-CMC-flat-drop-in-Glock-triggers

His point was that At the time, a year ago, his conclusion was that Overwatch Precision was the way to go.

Wow. Not having great interest in after market triggers for these guns I'd missed that. Which meant I missed this gem:

"I'd also encourage anyone looking for a "1911 trigger" on a Glock to shoot a different gun, perhaps a 1911." (T.J.)

I've been told that a few times by those with a lot of time on both.

[Palmetto]

I’m not a Glock Guy. I have a 17G3 with Apex flat-face DUTY kit. Kept all safety margins but smoothed trigger considerably. For m ether flat face also removed the Glock safety rub on my trigger finger.

[Blades]

I have a Haley Strategic Skimmer Trigger on my G19(came with the gun). From their website: "Made from 100% Glock Factory parts, the Haley Strategic Skimmer enhanced carry trigger system is a non-adjustable drop in trigger for Glock handguns. The Skimmer trigger features a pre-travel reduction modification to the first stage of the trigger press. After pressing through the predictable wall, the trigger delivers a crisp and consistent break. This will allow a reduction in pre-shot muzzle movement by the shooter and allow for increased accuracy on target."
They use to say "gives Glocks the performance of a stock 1911 using 100 percent OEM parts," but I didn't see that on their page. It is, according to them, around 4.5 pounds.

[feudist]

I've got 2 Gen 4 19s. The only changes to either internally is to replace the safety plunger spring with a lighter spring and to use G17 stock
triggers assemblies for the smooth trigger face.
Glocks being how they are, this yields a rolling sub 4lb trigger in one and a crisp 5lb break in the other. The 5lb break is preceded by the usual Glock take up before the defined wall.
If anything, I kind of prefer the heavier trigger. Using it and Dawson Chargers with the narrow notch and the thin front fiber optic I shot a 92/8.58 on the Test. I then shot it at 30 yards, again on the B-8 This resulted in a 10 shot 7 ring width pattern with 3 rounds several inches lower.
I don't think the Trigger is what's holding me back.

[GJM]

I will take smooth over light in a Glock trigger.

A smooth, light Glock trigger helps me shoot close targets faster, where a smooth, heavier trigger helps me shoot groups and low prob shots easier.

A 1911 feeling trigger is definitely NOT something I am looking for in a Glock trigger.

[Mntneer357]

Though I cannot locate the *exact* link at this moment, Tamara did an stellar write up on her blog (https://booksbikesboomsticks.blogspot.com) about this very topic. I believe her assessments were the same as Tom's, with the addition that Zev's trigger is pretty much horrible. (At least in regard to the safety concern.)

Between Tam & Tom, truly excellent information has been given. I am grateful for the information I am able to glean from wizened posters here.

[P.E. Kelley]

While not an answer to the OP Q.

I have tried many of them and always come back to stock with a TTI connector, striker spring and trigger spring.

No failures, no safety concerns, no problem shooting well.

[BWT]

While not an answer to the OP Q.

I have tried many of them and always come back to stock with a TTI connector, striker spring and trigger spring.

No failures, no safety concerns, no problem shooting well.

I recently installed a TTI connector in a Gen 5 glock and I need to get to the range.

I did not go forward with the springs out of concern for potential light strikes, etc.

Given your experience - have you ever had any issues with light primer strikes or anything of that nature?

This pistol is being used for self-defense.

Thanks and by the way - I’m a huge fan of your channel and content you offer.

[GJM]

A Wolf 5.0 striker spring and OEM minus connector has proven reliable in so many Glock pistols, I have zero concerns with any mainstream 9mm ammo. That is what Gabe uses. OEM striker is 5.5, which becomes lighter with wear. I believe they make an even heavier one, around 6.0 for green encrusted old ammo in India.

[PensFan]

I think both miss the mark and give consumers a false perception that their trigger is "just as safe" as OEM because it uses all OEM parts. But when you mechanically and geometrically modify those parts (I'm not talking about fancy coatings and polishing -- which can be done poorly and modify the parts and the way they are intended to function) they aren't factory/OEM parts any longer. When OEM parts require 0.100" of trigger bar movement to clear the so-called drop-safety, and modified OEM parts reduce that to 0.020" it's seems pretty clear to me that they don't offer the same safety margins. Is it enough? That's up the the individual to decide based upon their intended use. For me it's not.

My only advice is verify that the firing pin safety isn't compromised (as discussed in the link above) and that the vertical extension on the trigger hasn't been altered. But really, on a game gun that won't be carried or used for defense, do whatever you want to get the trigger that provides you with the characteristics you need.

This^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

I see them all the time.

Anytime you take OEM parts, especially the trigger bar and modify it to remove pre-travel by trimming the trigger safety and pinning the shoe you are compromising the designed safeties. I have yet to find one that doesn't.

People run them in "game" guns all the time. But consider this. Where are you most likely to drop a gun by tripping, bumping into an obstacle, barricade, etc...? Where are you guaranteed to have several people around you if and when that happens? Likely your shooting friends.

Not worth it to me. YMMV

Save your money. Buy more ammo.

[P.E. Kelley]

I recently installed a TTI connector in a Gen 5 glock and I need to get to the range.

I did not go forward with the springs out of concern for potential light strikes, etc.

Given your experience - have you ever had any issues with light primer strikes or anything of that nature?

This pistol is being used for self-defense.

Thanks and by the way - I’m a huge fan of your channel and content you offer.

I have not had any issues with the TTI package and I run a variety of factory ammo.

The TTI striker spring would be the only item of concern, and it has proven to be reliable.

AND....Thank you for your support of my channel! I will be back.

[BWT]

I have not had any issues with the TTI package and I run a variety of factory ammo.

The TTI striker spring would be the only item of concern, and it has proven to be reliable.

AND....Thank you for your support of my channel! I will be back.

Awesome and I look forward to your eventual return. Your priorities are in the right place and our prayers are with you guys.

[GuanoLoco]

I've have good luck with the Ghost EVO Elite, custom fit for over-travel (takes some effort), a 5.0 lb Wolff striker spring (pops everything I shoot reliably including CCI primers and my QC failures), and a reduced power safety plunger spring.

There are lots of ways to proceed, lots of ways to spend time and $ - only to end up backing out later.

[nwhpfan]

A Wolf 5.0 striker spring and OEM minus connector has proven reliable in so many Glock pistols, I have zero concerns with any mainstream 9mm ammo. That is what Gabe uses. OEM striker is 5.5, which becomes lighter with wear. I believe they make an even heavier one, around 6.0 for green encrusted old ammo in India.

I'll add an overtravel stop in the ejector block....but even that can be messed up. I had tens of thousands of trouble free shots with a 4.5# spring....until I had my first one. The few ounces I gained was not worth a match to me and I've been using 5# springs ever since.

I watched a very interesting video today wtih #johnnyglocks (https://pistol-forum.com/usertag.php?do=list&action=hash&hash=johnnyglocks) going over a 3k Glock and famous trigger where the verticle extension was not done properly.

Some people that will spend thousands of dollars on a gun, but not 15 minutes of dry fire. And obsess over this or that. Even the current CZ craze.

And I'm not so certain a 1911 trigger is the Holy Grail of triggers anyway. I kinda like what I can get from with a Glock. A little lighter and a lot smoother is where it's at for me.

[nwhpfan]

I've have good luck with the Ghost EVO Elite, custom fit for over-travel (takes some effort), a 5.0 lb Wolff striker spring (pops everything I shoot reliably including CCI primers and my QC failures), and a reduced power safety plunger spring.

There are lots of ways to proceed, lots of ways to spend time and $ - only to end up backing out later.

+1

Anything I shoot in a match is checked thoroughly. And I swore by 4.5# springs until I had my first issue. It's just not worth the risk to me.

[GJM]

Sometimes things can be confusing. About a year ago, after a few months of no ignition problems with a 4.5 pound striker spring I had in my Gen 4 34 CO pistol, I ran into some ignition problems in a match. I basically said “that is it,” and replaced the 4.5 with a 5.0 for reliability. However, the ignition problems continued. Then I cleaned the striker channel with no change. Then I changed the striker, and still no improvement. Finally, I realized that the combination of an after market guide rod and lighter spring combined with my thumb occasionally touching the slide, was causing a slight out of battery condition.

Since returning to an OEM RSA I have had zero ignition problems with a 4.5 striker spring in my game Glocks or the 5.0 in my carry guns.

My understanding is that striker springs weaken over time and use, and the OEM 5.5 has margin built in to account for a worn and thus weaker spring. With a 4.5 or 5.0, I would change them more frequently than an OEM 5.5.

[BWT]

What’s the consensus on reduced power trigger return springs?

It seems the reduced power striker spring is safe.

https://tarantacticalinnovations.com/trigger-return-spring/

Also, given the Glock’s OEM spring is 5.5 lbs and can wear in to 5 or 4.5 lbs.

Should a 4.5 be replaced more routinely? (ETA: GJM’s post above indicates to do so. What round count are you thinking?)

What about the reduced power trigger return spring?

I’m curious to try some of this stuff. But leery as well as I don’t shoot regularly enough or in high enough volume to draw my own solid conclusions.

I love discussions such as a these.

I’m contemplating buying both but only using the reduced power striker spring or going to the Wolff 5.0 lb spring.

[BWT]

[mini-rant]Glocks don't have a "trigger return spring" (nor do they have a "trigger shoe" but that's a different rant). The spring that causes the trigger to return forward in a Glock is the striker spring. I suspect you mean "trigger spring" (which causes the trigger-bar to pop up and into a position where it can capture the firing pin as the slide returns forward after the cam on the slide displaces the connector inboard) and reducing the power of that spring would actually cause the trigger pull weight to increase as the the non-NY variants of the trigger spring actually pull the trigger rearward and aid in the trigger press, not oppose it.[/mini-rant]

People that want to reduce the pull weight of the trigger will oftentimes install a heavier trigger spring (along with a lighter striker spring), which results in what I half-jokingly call a "self-pulling trigger".

Not disputing any of this except Taran Tactical in the link does call it a trigger return spring.

Still the trigger spring? No sarcasm - seriously asking.

[nwhpfan]

Not disputing any of this except Taran Tactical in the link does call it a trigger return spring.

Still the trigger spring? No sarcasm - seriously asking.

Same spring. I believe that's called a colloquialism.

[BWT]

Yes. Taran Tactical is using the wrong term.

FWIW, almost every aftermarket trigger maker talks about “trigger shoes”. They are also wrong (and I suspect being intentionally duplicitous by calling it “just” a trigger shoe — since, in my experience with my customers, the vast majority don’t realize that it is solely the so-called “trigger shoe” that determines the amount of pre-travel and over-travel present in a Glock trigger). I’ve spoken with numerous people that take the after-market “trigger-shoe” off of the modified trigger-bar it comes with and install it on an OEM trigger-bar in an attempt to make it safer — despite the fact that doing so would completely disable the firing pin safety.

I’m just some overly-opinionated jackass on the internet and certainly not a spokesman for Glock. I’m just using the terminology they use in their user and armorer manuals. I think it would be better if everyone else did so as well.

I appreciated the insights.

I’m just leery of tweaking things I don’t fully comprehend (especially in firearms and even more so ignition components and triggers) and this all has been very informative. I agree about nomenclature back in a project management class I took a few years back - they suggested a glossary or appendix for terms related to that project.

I thought at first that was a bit unnecessary, but I realized after thinking about it. Sometimes it is worthwhile to get everyone on the same page. I thought about going to a Glock Armorer class (while discussing it here), but I’d probably be better served with something work related for now.

[Tensaw]

Yes. Taran Tactical is using the wrong term.

FWIW, almost every aftermarket trigger maker talks about “trigger shoes”. They are also wrong (and I suspect being intentionally duplicitous by calling it “just” a trigger shoe — since, in my experience with my customers, the vast majority don’t realize that it is solely the so-called “trigger shoe” that determines the amount of pre-travel and over-travel present in a Glock trigger). I’ve spoken with numerous people that take the after-market “trigger-shoe” off of the modified trigger-bar it comes with and install it on an OEM trigger-bar in an attempt to make it safer — despite the fact that doing so would completely disable the firing pin safety.

You just learnt me something right here - and I *thought* I had a bit of a handle on Glock's trigger system. Dang!

So is it that, as the aftermarket trigger reduces the pre-travel, the trigger bar pre-disengages/defeats the firing pin safety? And can we tell this is occurring by watching the trigger bar interact with the FPS up through the magwell?

[BigT]

Funnily enough not an hour ago I checked something on a mates G15 Gen5. Apex trigger and trigger bar. Drop safety failed.

[Gio]

I have not experimented a lot, or tried any full drop in trigger kits, but I prefer to keep it simple and just change the connector, Plunger spring, and striker spring to 5.0#. I’ve recently been experimenting with a 4.5# spring in my gen5, which was not 100% reliable on CCI primers in my gen4 34, but has so far been 100% through about 1500 rounds in the gen5 34. I’ll probably go with a 5# spring at nationals though.

[Tensaw]

Thanks Tom. Very helpful. Pics are not actually all that shitty.

[PensFan]

[mini-rant](nor do they have a "trigger shoe" but that's a different rant).

I resemble that remark.

I only use the term because trigger and trigger bar confuse most people when describing the part. :p

Technically it's the trigger with trigger bar attached.

[RJ]

Threads like this are why I keep my mouth shut and listen.

Awesome stuff. Learning a lot.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[GJM]

The Gen 5 is very different than Gen 3/4 pistols in how the trigger changes with modification. After evaluating the Taran Gen 5 connector, OEM minus, OEM minus polished connector and the JohnnyGlocks Gen 5 trigger, I feel like the factory dot connector combined with a 5.0 striker spring for carry and possibly a 4.5 striker spring for gaming is, far and away both the best bang for the buck and the most consistent trigger. The JohnnyGlocks trigger system at $270 for trigger and polished striker is definitely lighter, but only you can decide whether that is worth the investment.

Now if you are still running stock sights, I bet we you can get $100 worth of value out of a set of Dawson fiber optics!

[thward89]

The Gen 5 is very different than Gen 3/4 pistols in how the trigger changes with modification. After evaluating the Taran Gen 5 connector, OEM minus, OEM minus polished connector and the JohnnyGlocks Gen 5 trigger, I feel like the factory dot connector combined with a 5.0 striker spring for carry and possibly a 4.5 striker spring for gaming is, far and away both the best bang for the buck and the most consistent trigger. The JohnnyGlocks trigger system at $270 for trigger and polished striker is definitely lighter, but only you can decide whether that is worth the investment.

Now if you are still running stock sights, I bet we you can get $100 worth of value out of a set of Dawson fiber optics!

This was my experience as well (minus the 5# striker spring - I did not try one). I tried the TTI, minus, polished minus, Guardian trigger kit, and apex connector and still ended up shooting best with the dot connector and stock trigger bar in the G5. All of those connectors felt better during dry fire; however, during live fire I shot the dot connector better across the full spectrum of shooting (speed up close, speed at distance, SHO/WHO, and slow fire at distance).

I have found that I have to shoot a G5 trigger different than any of the other generations. The additional "roll" in the G5 forces me to press the first shot similar to that of a DA or LEM - a longer, consistent press without stops. I used to be able to prep a G4 just to the break point and then break shots but I have found that this does not work for me with the G5. Adding connectors that increase the roll sensation lead to poorer performance. With that said, I shoot the G5s better than previous generations.

[GJM]

I just put a JohnnyGlocks competition trigger, polished striker and 4.5 pound striker spring into a G5 34 my wife is evaluating, and she started making noises one doesn’t usually associate with a Glock, or even firearms.

[GuanoLoco]

I just put a JohnnyGlocks competition trigger, polished striker and 4.5 pound striker spring into a G5 34 my wife is evaluating, and she started making noises one doesn’t usually associate with a Glock, or even firearms.

Careful lest you be replaced with a piece of hardware.

[alex]

So what's the consensus on using the 6lb trigger spring over the stock spring? For me, it seems like it slows down the reset but others swear that it increases it (no idea how that's possible?).

[JBP55]

So what's the consensus on using the 6lb trigger spring over the stock spring? For me, it seems like it slows down the reset but others swear that it increases it (no idea how that's possible?).

Causes weak reset and can possibly cause no reset when using a 4# firing pin spring. The firing pin spring and the trigger spring need to be close in weight to function properly.

[alex]

Causes weak reset and can possibly cause no reset when using a 4# firing pin spring. The firing pin spring and the trigger spring need to be close in weight to function properly.

Thank you. What if I'm using all stock springs and just swap out to the 6lb trigger spring?

[JBP55]

Thank you. What if I'm using all stock springs and just swap out to the 6lb trigger spring?

I would keep the OEM trigger spring and try a 4.5# firing pin spring if it is a range only pistol.
Anything lighter "May" cause light strikes with some ammunition unless you go with a lightweight firing pin.

[alex]

I would keep the OEM trigger spring and try a 4.5# firing pin spring if it is a range only pistol.
Anything lighter "May" cause light strikes with some ammunition unless you go with a lightweight firing pin.

I'm guessing you recommend 100% stock for carry?

[JBP55]

I'm guessing you recommend 100% stock for carry?

From my experience with many Glocks over many years a minus connector and a 4.5# firing pin spring works well as long as the you practice preventative maintenance.
Federal ammunition or primers is a good choice when using a reduced power FPS which you may want to change every 5,000 rounds. YMMV

[alex]

Does anyone have any experience with reduced power safety plunger springs?

[GuanoLoco]

Does anyone have any experience with reduced power safety plunger springs?

Used a bunch, no issues found. Polish the plunger (easy, cheap, good) or buy an aftermarket re-contoured / polished plunger (probably overkill).

[10mmfanboy]

Today I saw a local firearms trainer make a video showing how he rounds off the edges on a gen 5 safety plunger, essentially making it round on the bottom facing trigger bar. That cannot be safe, can it?

[Clobbersaurus]

Easy way to drop a solid pound off the factory pull is to replace the factory safety plunger spring for a Wolf reduced power safety plunger spring. I have never seen a reduced power safety plunger spring cause any issues unless it was improperly installed.

Id recommend you avoid messing with the striker spring as it will almost always lead to light primer strikes.

The Ghost 3.5 "EDGE" connector has been reliable in every Glock I've owned. I have not tried any of their lighter connectors.

So I just installed a reduced power plunger spring and it did as you suggested. It’s pull is now just over 5lbs. I dropped a 3.5 connector in my Gen 2 and it reduced the trigger pull by over 2lbs. It is now at about 4.5lbs. I tend to think that older gens respond better to replacing the connector than the Gen 5.

I now have a training gun with a better trigger pull than my competition gun. Only mods on my Gen 5 are a 3.5lb connector and a reduced power plunger spring.

The Gen 5’s trigger has gotten grittier over time. I suspect the peening on the safety plunger and the rubbing of the trigger bar against the crappy finish of the right side of the slide release is the culprit. No amount of cleaning seems to help it. It’s not horrible, just noticeable when shooting groups. Shooting at speed, I don’t notice it. I wish Glock made a single sided OEM Gen 5 slide release. I would buy one in a heatbeat.

[Magsz]

Make your own. Slice that side off.

[1911Nut]

I am pretty much over Glock pistols these days, having reduced my inventory to only two . . . . a G43 and a Gen 3 Vickers Edition G19.

I shot G17's, G34's, and G19's pretty extensively in competition for about three years, and carried one version or another of the Glock platform regularly.

Tried lots of trigger combinations, including "do-it-yourself" and aftermarket.

My personal all-time favorites were from glocktriggers.com

The Gen 3 Vickers G19 I still own has one of their "Vogel" model triggers and the G43 has one of their "G43" models (imagine that!).

But the single best trigger I have ever felt in a Glock pistol were the "Edge models from glocktriggers.com that I had in two Gen 3 G34 pistols. The "Vogel" is almost exactly like the "Edge"model, but the pre-travel hasn't been removed from the "Vogel" model.

I shot Bob Vogel's G34 with a "Vogel" trigger in it in Texas at a training seminar and his trigger felt exactly like the one I have in my Vickers G19.

I never had even a single reliability issue with ANY of the "Edge", "Vogel", or "G43" triggers, and that included LOTS of shooting, with handloaded mmo and numerous brands of factory ammo.

[Clobbersaurus]

Make your own. Slice that side off.

Can’t modify it in Production IPSC rules, otherwise it would have been gone a lone time ago.

[MGW]

The Apex Kit I put in my 19.5 is the best trigger I’ve ever had in a Glock. It’s a very smooth rolling break. Not everyone likes that kind of break though. It started out in a Gen 5 34, then a Gen 5 17, and now the 19. It has felt basically the same in all of them.

[Clobbersaurus]

Just an update here, I installed a brand new OEM safety plunger to replace the peened one that was in the gun. Trigger pull is now under 5lbs, it dropped about 1/2 lb over what it was before. I may try a 4.5 lb firing pin spring after the season is over, I really don’t want to mess with anything more with big matches coming up. I also have a brand new slide release to install, which may further improve things (the finish on the original is flaking off).