SIG P-series Short Reset advice

[TOTS]

I have been dragging my feet on getting any of the SRT parts for my P-229 due to the oft quoted “...Indian not the arrow...” comment. I just didnt feel like it was worth it to upgrade as I needed to work on my grip and other aspects of recoil control before spending more money. Im at the point now, thousands of rounds later, that I have started short stroking the 229 a little after shooting my 1911 for a while. No empirical evidence via shot timer, unfortunately; the range im at for the time being has a 1 rnd per second rule.

So, deferring to the SMEs...install a SRT kit or train more?

If SRT, Im polling the masses for recommendations between the SIG parts kit https://www.topgunsupply.com/sig-sauer-srt-kit-p226-p228-p229-p227.html for $44 or the Grayguns Industries parts kit https://www.topgunsupply.com/grayguns-short-reset-trigger-srt-kit-sig-sauer-p-series.html for $80. Im not spending more than this as I already have a very nice trigger.

Im a little worried about installing new parts as I have read conflicting things (albeit on various forums with varying levels of experience) about the effect the SRT sear has on trigger pulls. Some say that the new sear induces creep and grit in triggers without them prior, etc.

The GGI sear with the PTFE coating may be the solution; over to you guys on that.

So, comments and advice are welcome.

[CCT125US]

I have installed 2 of the Sig kits from Top Gun Supply. Works as advertised, install took about 30 seconds. Certainly would have on my Sigs, if I owned any.

[HCountyGuy]

I’d say go for the regular SRT kit. I never noticed much of what others talked about, then again I’m not extraordinarily sensitive to the minute mechanics of my trigger.

Install is surprisingly easy...most times...stupid damn sear spring pin...

[HopetonBrown]

When you say "train more", have you already had pistol training?

1 second per shot is more than enough time to reset your trigger.

If you were working towards a 2 second Bill Drill or sumpin then sure, get the SRT.

[nate89]

I shoot p series sigs almost exclusively. I started with a tac ops, and since then every sig I had (except for a DAK) has come with the SRT already installed. I recently got a MK25 on a great trade, and have been using that for a bit, which does not come with the SRT. So far I haven't had short stroking issues, but I'm sure it could happen in the future. Honestly I appreciated the short reach trigger just as much as the SRT kit (both have the same acronym which is a bit annoying). If you have the money for the short reset trigger, it seems like only advantages with no disadvantages. If you were only short stroking after shooting a 1911 for some time, I would say that is more getting familiar with the gun and the trigger again more than anything.

I'm also hoping to have someone chime in on the differences between the Grey Guns SRT and the Sig SRT to see if the price difference is worth it.

[crossrifles]

I was pretty excited for the SRT. Being a fan boy of DA/SA guns for a long time I actually let hype override everything on this. Having the SRT installed in 226/229 guns I’m actually ready to dump them. I don’t see any advantage to them because I’m so use to the regular reset of a standard Sig and Beretta 92 and actually shoot them faster. I personally don’t think they add anything if you’re use to a standard reset. Just goes to show how different we all are when it comes to this shooting stuff.


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[OlongJohnson]

It's true that the SA can have slightly more creep on the SRT than the standard trigger.

Grit is related to surface finishes, not the inherent design, so it can be cleaned up by anyone who knows what (s)he's doing with stones. I've seen several guns now where it appeared the hammer and/or sear had been dropped while out of the gun, raising lumps on the engagement surface, causing hitches or roughness in the SA trigger press. Easily corrected by a competent person, best done with a loupe.

If you train to ride the reset, SRT may make a difference. But with a 1 second rule, I wouldn't expect short stroking to show up. That's plenty of time to get it right. If you shoot a variety of triggers and adopt a "flip and press" method like some do, you'll probably adapt to whatever you're shooting.

[John Hearne]

The SIG SRT has have a good bit of gritty creep in SA. I suspect that the GGI fixes this. I'd also add that the SRT with the GGI Precision Adjustable trigger is AMAZING!

[Bill]

For those that asked: The difference between the two kits is that the Grayguns kit comes with their sear, which is tool steel and has properly stoned engagement surfaces. The other part that makes up the short reset kit is standard sig oem with either kit. The GGI kit also comes with their excellent spring kit. . . which includes a lighter hammer spring, lighter firing pin block spring, and sear spring. I haven't tried the full GGI kit myself; my usual recipe is the standard sig kit, and the grayguns spring kit. Results are typically very good.

I'll also challenge the idea that your choice is train more OR put in an SRT kit. How's about both?

[TOTS]

Guys, thanks for all the input.

When you say "train more", have you already had pistol training?

1 second per shot is more than enough time to reset your trigger.

If you were working towards a 2 second Bill Drill or sumpin then sure, get the SRT.

Only formal training is from the Marines and at the FLETC. My comment about training more was more a question of this being an area where a hardware change is actually warranted. I appreciate the feedback but it seems like I have to just try it and let the timer tell me the answer rather than info from the masses.

The private range I usually shoot at is having construction work done and I’m temporarily at a public range with stifling rules because...stupid people. No holsters allowed, no speed reloading, etc. As soon as I can get back to my normal range I’ll be running timed drills and shooting steel again.

I do tend to ride the reset as I have shot primarily 1911s other than the 229. I tend to not shoot the M9 anymore other than annual qualification. I carry the 229 and use 1911s for range and eventually competitive use.

I may have to be the one to provide info on comparing the GGI kit with the SIG parts as it doesn’t seem like anyone has experience with the GGI kit. it could be my contribution to this community!

[HopetonBrown]

FLETC and the Marines teach pinning the trigger?

[TGS]

FLETC and the Marines teach pinning the trigger?

Yes on both.

[HopetonBrown]

Yes on both.No wonder he's short stroking, though that's still seemingly tough to do with 1 second splits.

[TGS]

No wonder he's short stroking, though that's still seemingly tough to do with 1 second splits.

Pinning the trigger is a skill taught in almost every entry level program I've ever been exposed to. My agency follow-on doesn't really cover the topic, and advanced level courses at my agency work heavily to get people resetting in recoil. I imagine the same is true for a Marine going through an advanced shoot package at Stone Bay vs Table 1s.....

It's a progression.

Using basic inference skills, I take it that his usual range is closed for maintenance and he's temporarily using a public range that limits to 1-sec splits, so if he purchases the SRT, regardless for some amount of time he wouldn't be able to quantitatively compare them.

[TOTS]

Pinning the trigger is a skill taught in almost every entry level program I've ever been exposed to. My agency follow-on doesn't really cover the topic, and advanced level courses at my agency work heavily to get people resetting in recoil. I imagine the same is true for a Marine going through an advanced shoot package at Stone Bay vs Table 1s.....

It's a progression.

Using basic inference skills, I take it that his usual range is closed for maintenance and he's temporarily using a public range that limits to 1-sec splits, so if he purchases the SRT, regardless for some amount of time he wouldn't be able to quantitatively compare them.

Sir, you are correct on all topics. The Marine Corps is as nonchalant where pistol training is concerned as it is exacting about the rifle. My initial pistol training offered the weaver as a viable stance and was nothing more than “equal height -equal light” and Kentucky windage after the first “grouping”. Of course, as you progress to units with a higher speed, the training gets better with guys like Mike Panonne providing instruction to Recon, Marsoc, etc.

My normal range is getting the berms re-bulldozed and the owner doesn’t want me there during deer-season.

One question for clarity though. I’m trying to focus on resetting during recoil and am completely away from pinning the trigger. I was thinking that the flip-and-press differs from riding the reset in that the finger moves forward enough to completely come off the trigger and riding the reset has the finger only moving forward enough to allow the trigger to reset. Please correct me if this isn’t so.

I don’t know where the supposition I pin the trigger came from.

Again, thanks for all the input.

[pastaslinger]

I'm really surprised that people don't feel strongly on this. I think the SRT kit is the best thing that SIG has done for the P series. Comparing an old stock W. German import model to a new SRT model or especially the Legion model which has the SRT plus the PSAIT, there is no comparison. The SRT guns just have far better triggers, especially in the Legion.

If I actually bothered sticking with SIGs then at minimum every single one would have the SRT kit, it's the same price as a connection and a few Glock springs (Aka it's cheap).

[taadski]

The SRT kits can effect the “crispness” of the stock SA trigger in the P series guns. It’s pretty subtle though, IME, and has zero effect running the guns at speed. It is more noticeable shooting slow fire, pure accuracy oriented drills, but I actually prefer a touch of roll vs a glass rod type break for that type of shooting anyway.

The stock reset is plenty shootable. That said, I do prefer the SRT sears and run them in my guns. I don’t subscribe to riding the reset typically, but despite that, I have experienced short stroking the non-SRT guns on occasion when shooting Bills, Blake Drills or other faster paced exercises. I recommend choosing one setup or the other across the board for serious uses. The SRT reset difference is significant.

I have several Bruce Gray tuned Sigs. He does excellent work. If I had to compare or contrast the difference between his tuned SRT trigger and a well broken in or polished up standard SRT sear, I’d say the latter typically retains more of the roll/subtle creep, while the Grayguns worked ones have a crisper style break. Both can be made a bit lighter or heavier respectively via re-springing, with the obvious disclaimer that going too light can cause ignition problems. I prefer the tuned triggers, but I’m not sure there’s a quantifiable performance difference for me over simply a stock we’ll broken in one.

[OlongJohnson]

As long as we're on the topic...

My M11-A1 came with a silver coating on the sear (an SRT setup from the factory). Don't know what it is. It's not NP3, according to Robar. It has broken in to be ridiculous. I thought my P226 Elite with SRT was pretty sweet before, but now it feels like there's something wrong with it, compared to the M11-A1. Would like to figure out what that coating is.

Would also like to figure out how to get the M11 to extract WWB.

[HopetonBrown]

One question for clarity though. I’m trying to focus on resetting during recoil and am completely away from pinning the trigger. I was thinking that the flip-and-press differs from riding the reset in that the finger moves forward enough to completely come off the trigger and riding the reset has the finger only moving forward enough to allow the trigger to reset. Please correct me if this isn’t so.

I don’t know where the supposition I pin the trigger came from.

Again, thanks for all the input.

I thought riding the reset and pinning the trigger are the same thing.

[Sero Sed Serio]

The SRT kit is nice, but since I flip and press, the benefits are lost on me. However, if you're short stroking because of the 1911, and if the 1911 isn't going to go away, then go ahead and get an SRT kit.

Given the choice between a machined bar stock GGI sear and an MIM SIG factory sear, there's no question in my mind: go with the GGI SRT. I suspect that the reported creep and grit are due to variations between factory sears. I doubt you'll have issues with a machined sear with a slick finish, especially after it wears in a bit.

[M2CattleCo]

Slap the trigger and you'll never worry about reset again. And you'll shoot better.

[HCM]

I thought riding the reset and pinning the trigger are the same thing.

Pinning the trigger is taught to beginners. You fire the shot and keep the trigger pinned all the way back during follow through. You don’t release it until the gun has finished recoiling and you are ready for the next shot, at which time you let the trigger all the way back out. You normally maintain contact with the trigger through out this cycle.

In riding the reset, as soon as you fire the shot you release the trigger, but only far enough for the trigger to re-set and immediately begin pressing to break another shot. You are literally “riding” the trigger as the trigger spring /trigger return spring pushes it back out and stopping when you feel the trigger reset.

[HopetonBrown]

In riding the reset, as soon as you fire the shot you release the trigger, but only far enough for the trigger to re-set and immediately begin pressing to break another shot. You are literally “riding” the trigger as the trigger spring /trigger return spring pushes it back out and stopping when you feel the trigger reset.

This would seem impossible to do at any sort of speed without constantly getting trigger freeze.

[HCM]

This would seem impossible to do at any sort of speed without constantly getting trigger freeze.

Pinning is slow but aids accuracy, especially with triggers which have overtravel.

Riding the reset can work if you have single trigger type, it has a tactile reset and you practice. If any of those conditions are missing you wil have issues riding the reset. Even if those conditions you are flirting with disaster. It’s a square range parkour trick.

The other two options are riding the trigger all the way out and the flip and press. The big difference between them is whether or not you maintain contact with the trigger.

The flip and press tends to be for more advanced shooters, newbies who haven’t acquired the basics of trigger control will turn the flip and press, which should be only the trigger finger, into a whole hand convulsion with poor results.

[pastaslinger]

The SRT kit is nice, but since I flip and press, the benefits are lost on me. However, if you're short stroking because of the 1911, and if the 1911 isn't going to go away, then go ahead and get an SRT kit.

Given the choice between a machined bar stock GGI sear and an MIM SIG factory sear, there's no question in my mind: go with the GGI SRT. I suspect that the reported creep and grit are due to variations between factory sears. I doubt you'll have issues with a machined sear with a slick finish, especially after it wears in a bit.

The whole point of MIM manufacturing is that it holds very good tolerances

[Leroy]

I shot around 200 rounds through my Mk25 when I first purchased it and didn't touch it again until I had installed the SRT. The SIG reset is already very weak in force, and my Mk25 had a really long reset. I don't like triggers with long, weak resets.

[Sero Sed Serio]

The whole point of MIM manufacturing is that it holds very good tolerances

IMHO the best SIG trigger pulls come from machined sears, but well-made MIM sears come very close. My issue isn't so much MIM, it's the inconsistency in quality that popped up at the same time as the switch to MIM. While I personally prefer a machined part, I have no problem with well-made MIM, such as HK. So the machining is a small part of my preference, and the fact that it was made by somebody who isn't SIG is a much bigger part.

[Mjolnir]

I have been dragging my feet on getting any of the SRT parts for my P-229 due to the oft quoted “...Indian not the arrow...” comment. I just didnt feel like it was worth it to upgrade as I needed to work on my grip and other aspects of recoil control before spending more money. Im at the point now, thousands of rounds later, that I have started short stroking the 229 a little after shooting my 1911 for a while. No empirical evidence via shot timer, unfortunately; the range im at for the time being has a 1 rnd per second rule.

So, deferring to the SMEs...install a SRT kit or train more?

If SRT, Im polling the masses for recommendations between the SIG parts kit https://www.topgunsupply.com/sig-sauer-srt-kit-p226-p228-p229-p227.html for $44 or the Grayguns Industries parts kit https://www.topgunsupply.com/grayguns-short-reset-trigger-srt-kit-sig-sauer-p-series.html for $80. Im not spending more than this as I already have a very nice trigger.

Im a little worried about installing new parts as I have read conflicting things (albeit on various forums with varying levels of experience) about the effect the SRT sear has on trigger pulls. Some say that the new sear induces creep and grit in triggers without them prior, etc.

The GGI sear with the PTFE coating may be the solution; over to you guys on that.

So, comments and advice are welcome.

PM me your email address. I have something you’ll appreciate - P226 Armorer’s Manual.

Anyone else interested can PM me or just email me

Reed.Kevin.J@ g mail


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[TOTS]

PM me your email address. I have something you’ll appreciate - P226 Armorer’s Manual.

Anyone else interested can PM me or just email me

Reed.Kevin.J@ g mail


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Email sent- much appreciated.

[Sauer Koch]

PM me your email address. I have something you’ll appreciate - P226 Armorer’s Manual.

Anyone else interested can PM me or just email me

Reed.Kevin.J@ g mail


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PM sent, thank you!

[Mjolnir]

PM sent, thank you!

Please leave your email and I’ll get it to you immediately.


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[nate89]

Just sent an email. Thanks much!


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[Bucky]

Ever since I started shooting to trigger return, on the advice of Todd Jarrett, trigger reset no longer mattered to me. HOWVER, shortening the trigger return is something of real interest to me. So if any of the parts do that, then yes.