Gun Safes 2018

[spinmove_]

So I’ve been saving up for a couple things lately and last night when I was going though some of my things in “the armory” in my house I realized that it was way past time to invest in a real “Big Boy” safe. I’ve got a smaller “14-gun” cabinet, a smaller handgun safe or two, but that’s about it. I need something that’ll actually hold a handful of long guns with optics etc and handguns. Preferably something fire rated and what have you.

Any recommended brands, shops, capacities, and/or other things I should consider? Looking for something I won’t have to upgrade out of for a while.


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[TopShot]

My brother and I both have Liberty Safes.
We love them and you get a lot of bank for the buck.
http://www.libertysafe.com/
Before we bought these safes I did a ton of research and if you
were willing to spend the bucks Fort Knox safes were the best.
https://www.ftknox.com/

[Grey]

Tagged for interest.

[Totem Polar]

Another Libery owner, FWIW. No great expertise on my end, however, just seemed like it would fit the bill at the time. No complaints thus far.

[LSP552]

Had a Liberty USA model 30 delivered last week.

http://www.libertysafe.com/buy-a-safe-usa-size-ps-44.html

I decided not to move the Browning safe when I relocated to RI. I’m completely happy with the Liberty. Love the flexibility on configuring shelves and the included door bag. I went with the key pad lock.

[martinmj]

I have a Sturdy Safe and could not be happier. They don't advertise so many haven't heard of them. They offer some great safes. The prices might seem high, but when you start comparing them to others on the market you'll find that their quality is quite remarkable for the price.

[underhook]

Another happy Sturdy Safe owner. No frills but relative quality.

I understand there is a big difference between "residential storage containers" that we are discussing here and real safes and that the best advice is to look for a real used safe.

[Super77]

Sturdy safe all the way

[JCS]

I’ve had my eye on one of these https://www.secureitgunstorage.com/product/gun-cabinet-ultralight-gun-safe/. I also need to upgrade from a security cabinet. I think the fire resistance part of heavy gun safes is really overrated for most people. I don’t have much interest in a safe that is insanely heavy.

Do you have guns that are irreplaceable? How far away is the nearest fire station? Just things to consider before deciding what type of safe to buy.

[spinmove_]

I’ve had my eye on one of these https://www.secureitgunstorage.com/product/gun-cabinet-ultralight-gun-safe/. I also need to upgrade from a security cabinet. I think the fire resistance part of heavy gun safes is really overrated for most people. I don’t have much interest in a safe that is insanely heavy.

Do you have guns that are irreplaceable? How far away is the nearest fire station? Just things to consider before deciding what type of safe to buy.

I agree that a certain level of fire resistance starts reaching a point of diminishing returns. I do not currently own any irreplaceable firearms nor are any of them particularly expensive or exotic. I think the most exotic thing I own is a ‘97 vintage P220.

More than anything I need something strong, sturdy, and theft resistant while also having enough room to grow from the 7 pistols, 4 rifles, and a shotgun that I currently have.


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[Cypher]

My wife and I purchased a Liberty Centurion a couple of years ago. Instead of buying new though we looked on local for sale pages in our area and ended up buying a $650 safe used for just over $300.

Edited for typo

[Poconnor]

Don’t forget moving them. I bought my liberty safe from a locksmith because he would deliver it were I wanted it. The last time I moved the moving company said no problem. They lied. If I was buying a safe again I would look for a used TL 15 or TL30. But they are super heavy

[drummer]

I'm not going to bash Liberty Safes, but do some research on what the walls are actually made of. They have great marketing and the best distribution network in the country. Sort of like the Springfield Armory of gun safes.

With steel prices continuing to rise over the last several years, manufacturers are either raising prices to keep up or using less steel. Steel is the only thing making your safe secure. You want as much as you can afford. A common thing Liberty does is to advertise a certain gage thickness which is really a combination of two or three lesser gages. Know what you're buying.

IMO, the higher end AMSEC are the market leaders. AMSEC has a very poor dealer network. They make some of the best gun safes. I purchases a B series a couple years ago with the 4 gage internal upgrade. I've been happy with it. It took some research on my part to order it then have a local locksmith install.

If you have a local Fort Knox dealer, you can get .25" upgraded walls for a similar price to the B series Amsecs. Make sure you pay for the additional steel liner (11 ga, to recall) as they don't come standard.

If you're worried about fire protection, Amsec is the only game in town. It was a lesser concern for me but didn't hurt. Be aware, local safe dealers will probably talk down Amsecs, see above comment on terrible dealer network.

[David S.]

I don’t know that there’s been anything new in the safe business for a while, except for the SecureIt stuff mentioned above.

You might want to review the older threads. There’s a couple videos floating around demonstrating how little theft protection they actually provide. The SecureIt marketing videos indicate that typical gun safes manufacturers overstate their fire protection too.

At this point I’m strongly considering the SecureIt system, but I’d save for a AMSEC BF (or better) or equivalent if I wanted a traditional safe.

[Grey]

SecureIt also is making "real" safes under the True product line. It is definitely pricey though, I believe over $3K.

[farscott]

UL ratings are a big deal. Most "gun safes" are not categorized by UL as safes; they are rated as "Residential Storage Containers" or RSC. They provide access control, but little in the way of theft protection. It is not hard to cut them open.

The basic safe UL ratings are TL-15 and TL-30. The first means the safe is rated to stop a skilled attacker using tools for fifteen minutes; the latter is rated against a skilled attacker for thirty minutes. There is also a TRTL rating, which means the safe is proof against skilled attackers with torches and tools. A TRTL 15X6 rating means that all six sides of the safe are resistant against a torch and tool attack for fifteen minutes. Note how short these time periods are.

I firmly believe that the least protection required is afforded by a TL-15 safe as most burglars are not going to have the skills, tools, and time to defeat it. Of course, a dedicated person will, but a safe is risk reduction, not risk elimination. I highly recommend buying used from places like a closed K-Mart, Sears, or other business like a jeweler. Safes do not go bad although the locks need maintenance, and there is little difference between one made in 1980 and in 2018 other than cosmetics. I picked up a Mosler TL-15 safe for $500 from a K-Mart that was being closed. I had to have a wrecker deliver the safe and place it in my garage as it weighs 2500 pounds empty. My total cost was less than $800 for a much better safe than any RSC.

[JohnO]

UL ratings are a big deal. Most "gun safes" are not categorized by UL as safes; they are rated as "Residential Storage Containers" or RSC. They provide access control, but little in the way of theft protection. It is not hard to cut them open.

The basic safe UL ratings are TL-15 and TL-30. The first means the safe is rated to stop a skilled attacker using tools for fifteen minutes; the latter is rated against a skilled attacker for thirty minutes. There is also a TRTL rating, which means the safe is proof against skilled attackers with torches and tools. A TRTL 15X6 rating means that all six sides of the safe are resistant against a torch and tool attack for fifteen minutes. Note how short these time periods are.

I firmly believe that the least protection required is afforded by a TL-15 safe as most burglars are not going to have the skills, tools, and time to defeat it. Of course, a dedicated person will, but a safe is risk reduction, not risk elimination.

Excellent points.

One needs to weigh the cost vs. risk factors. Are you anticipating a professional crew of safe crackers camping out in your home while you are away for the weekend? Is your greatest risk a smash and grab? Do you have a home alarm system? Do you live in a residential area where abnormal activity at your home might be noticed? Are you looking for furniture or protection?

Where and how you choose to keep your safe also can factor into its vulnerability. Is it anchored in place? Tipping it over may be the first part of an attack. Do you have it anchored in a corner such that an attacker can't utilize a long pry bar on the door due to the proximity of the adjacent wall.

[TGS]

The better quality fire protection of AMSECs lines with the DryLight concrete fill vs fire board is also an advantage to theft protection.

You can have the most massive lugs locking on a foot thick steel plate door, and it's all for naught if the intruder can use a Dremel to cut off the side of your safe in minutes because it's 11ga steel with fireboard.

Concrete instead of fireboard? Not so easy.

AMSEC also makes lower end safes. Make sure you're looking at the specs for the safe you're buying, not just the brand.

[HCM]

I'm not going to bash Liberty Safes, but do some research on what the walls are actually made of. They have great marketing and the best distribution network in the country. Sort of like the Springfield Armory of gun safes.

With steel prices continuing to rise over the last several years, manufacturers are either raising prices to keep up or using less steel. Steel is the only thing making your safe secure. You want as much as you can afford. A common thing Liberty does is to advertise a certain gage thickness which is really a combination of two or three lesser gages. Know what you're buying.

IMO, the higher end AMSEC are the market leaders. AMSEC has a very poor dealer network. They make some of the best gun safes. I purchases a B series a couple years ago with the 4 gage internal upgrade. I've been happy with it. It took some research on my part to order it then have a local locksmith install.

If you have a local Fort Knox dealer, you can get .25" upgraded walls for a similar price to the B series Amsecs. Make sure you pay for the additional steel liner (11 ga, to recall) as they don't come standard.

If you're worried about fire protection, Amsec is the only game in town. It was a lesser concern for me but didn't hurt. Be aware, local safe dealers will probably talk down Amsecs, see above comment on terrible dealer network.

AMSEC makes great safes as does Ft Knox they are a whole other level in terms of security vs liberty and browning safes but they are also at a whole other price point.

Basically;

AMSEC / Ft Knox > Liberty /Browning > Costco / Winchester / Made in China > security cabinets.

[beenalongtime]

Maybe it should be asked then, who are good "safe door" sellers, for those who would want to build in/build up their own "safe" room/vault?

[farscott]

Maybe it should be asked then, who are good "safe door" sellers, for those who would want to build in/build up their own "safe" room/vault?

This company is good but not inexpensive. https://www.lackasafe.com/categories/vaults

[David S.]

Maybe it should be asked then, who are good "safe door" sellers, for those who would want to build in/build up their own "safe" room/vault?

https://pistol-forum.com/showthread.php?25416-RFI-Vault-Doors&styleid=5

[spinmove_]

You’ve all given me quite a bit to think about.

1.) I don’t expect to be a high risk target for theft, but I’ll be situating the safe in such a way that at least 2 of 3 solid walls will be facing cinder block walls. It’ll also be bolted to the cement basement floor.

2.) I don’t anticipate a fire and I don’t have super high value arms. Insurance should be able to handle most of that replacement if not completely outright.

3.) Safe will need to be going down wood stairs for installation anyway, so it can’t be too heavy.

As much as I’d love to have the Rolls Royce of gun safes, my limited funds for my ballistic endeavors somewhat keep me in Liberty Safe territory. It may not be the best, but it’s a hell of a lot better than a Stack-On gun cabinet. So that’s probably what I’ll end up going with.


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[scw2]

I had to have a wrecker deliver the safe and place it in my garage as it weighs 2500 pounds empty. My total cost was less than $800 for a much better safe than any RSC.

Not sure if I'm reading correctly, but does this mean you installed the safe in your garage?

I'm considering where I should put mine, and space and not needing to reinforce the crawl space would make the garage possibly an easier option, but I'm slightly worried about the fact that it seems way less secure and also would be subject to temperature swings + possible humidity.

Are those valid concerns, and if so, how did you mitigate those issues?

[farscott]

Not sure if I'm reading correctly, but does this mean you installed the safe in your garage?

I'm considering where I should put mine, and space and not needing to reinforce the crawl space would make the garage possibly an easier option, but I'm slightly worried about the fact that it seems way less secure and also would be subject to temperature swings + possible humidity.

Are those valid concerns, and if so, how did you mitigate those issues?

Those are valid concerns. Here is what I did.

1) We added stairs to the attic above the safe. The safe is hidden from casual view. It also lacks the characteristic "spoke handle" of a safe. It is not visible from the road, and you have to be in the garage to see it.

2) I use five different dehumidifers with the beads that can be baked in the oven or plugged into a wall outlet to do the same thing. Each set is good for about a month in the summer and about three months in the winter. The garage also has a heat pump water heater that helps to minimize humidity.

3) The safe sits above the concrete floor on blocks so that air can circulate underneath it. That helps minimize humidity issues as well.

[Grey]

You’ve all given me quite a bit to think about.

1.) I don’t expect to be a high risk target for theft, but I’ll be situating the safe in such a way that at least 2 of 3 solid walls will be facing cinder block walls. It’ll also be bolted to the cement basement floor.

2.) I don’t anticipate a fire and I don’t have super high value arms. Insurance should be able to handle most of that replacement if not completely outright.

3.) Safe will need to be going down wood stairs for installation anyway, so it can’t be too heavy.

As much as I’d love to have the Rolls Royce of gun safes, my limited funds for my ballistic endeavors somewhat keep me in Liberty Safe territory. It may not be the best, but it’s a hell of a lot better than a Stack-On gun cabinet. So that’s probably what I’ll end up going with.


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make sure you cant just cut through the side of a liberty safe, otherwise it is basically a stack on cabinet with a fancy door.

[spinmove_]

make sure you cant just cut through the side of a liberty safe, otherwise it is basically a stack on cabinet with a fancy door.

How would I go about determining if I can just cut through the side of a Liberty?


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[Grey]

How would I go about determining if I can just cut through the side of a Liberty?


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Check to see what gauge steel it is and if they fill the space with drywall or concrete. Check youtube.

[farscott]

Check to see what gauge steel it is and if they fill the space with drywall or concrete. Check youtube.

Liberty Safes website says the UL listing is as a RSC, so they can be cut. http://www.libertysafe.com/ul-listed-for-security-lm-4-p-54.html

[Grey]

Liberty Safes website says the UL listing is as a RSC, so they can be cut. http://www.libertysafe.com/ul-listed-for-security-lm-4-p-54.html

Not sure what buying a liberty safe gets you over any other RSC. Seriously interested because I have the same debate going on in my head.

[Spartan1980]

You’ve all given me quite a bit to think about.

1.) I don’t expect to be a high risk target for theft, but I’ll be situating the safe in such a way that at least 2 of 3 solid walls will be facing cinder block walls. It’ll also be bolted to the cement basement floor.

2.) I don’t anticipate a fire and I don’t have super high value arms. Insurance should be able to handle most of that replacement if not completely outright.

3.) Safe will need to be going down wood stairs for installation anyway, so it can’t be too heavy.

As much as I’d love to have the Rolls Royce of gun safes, my limited funds for my ballistic endeavors somewhat keep me in Liberty Safe territory. It may not be the best, but it’s a hell of a lot better than a Stack-On gun cabinet. So that’s probably what I’ll end up going with.


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Your situation would seem a good fit for one of these.

http://dakotasafe.com/Interloc_xp.html

[spinmove_]

So because most of their safes are rated UL that means their side walls can be cut? What other RSCs could you buy for far less that still fit guns reasonably?


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[Grey]

So because most of their safes are rated UL that means their side walls can be cut? What other RSCs could you buy for far less that still fit guns reasonably?


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My understanding is that you need something that has a concrete fill between the inner and out wall. Otherwise a cordless saw with a metal cutting blade is supposedly able to rip right through the side. So you end up paying for a bunch of weight that doesn't really help you out in the long term. Also safe "fire ratings" may be bogus because the testing for such things are not regulated really. I was looking at a SecureIT and I may be spouting the Koolaid here, do some research on it and report back!

[farscott]

Another interesting piece of data is that most safes have the hinges on the outside, not the inside. You can cut the hinges off a safe and the door should not open without withdrawing the bolts. A design with internal hinges usually cannot have bolts that traverse the hinged side of the door.

[TGS]

So because most of their safes are rated UL that means their side walls can be cut? What other RSCs could you buy for far less that still fit guns reasonably?


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UL (Underwriter's Laboratory) is an accreditation body. A REAL safe carries a UL rating of TL15, which means it takes a minimum of 15 minutes by a professional using any tool they want to get in....but only for the door. TL15x6 means any six sides, not just the door. TL30, obviously, being 30 minutes.

RSC just means residential security container. It's not a "real" safe.

And yeah, using a saw you cut slice off the side of most store-bought gun safes within a minute or two. It takes 10-15 minutes using a cheap ass Dremel/imitation. I think an easy way of organizing gun safes is like this:

1) Cabinets/Lockers. This includes not only StackOn, but also the big-ass big-box store bought safes with gigantic locking lugs and whatnot like Cannon, Big Horn, or Winchester. You can pry them open just as easily as a Stack-On cabinet, because those big thick doors are actually the same thickness and will peel right back with a crowbar. They are the definition of swindling your customers into thinking they're buying something they're not. They'll protect against a smash and grab, but even an unskilled crew with simple tools can pry the door open.

2) RSCs with gypsum fireboard interior: These will usually have a steel plate door. These can't really be pried if installed properly. You can cut the side open. These are sufficient against smash-and-grabs, or a crew bringing a basic tool set (sledge, crowbar). People usually aren't running around with power saws. Good quality safes in this category are made by Gardall, AMSEC, and Ft Knox for starters.

3) RSCs with concrete fill. Steel plate door, but also with a concrete fill for fire protection instead of gypsum fireboard. This not only gives you the best fire protection available, but is also a bitch to cut through. These will generally take a time-consuming targeted attack by a professional crew. An excellent example of this would be the BF series by AMSEC. AMSEC also offers an upgrade for the interior to have a 4ga liner instead of 11ga (the vast majority of gun safes use 11-18 ga steel outers with no metal liner, just as an example of how much beefier this is).

4) TL rated. These are the start of real safes, when using the word "Safe" in it's actual industrial lexicon. They are incredibly expensive and super heavy.....a 30 gun AMSEC TL15 rated safe weighs something like 3500lbs. You'll obviously need a professional crew to get into it.


Of course, none of this matters if you don't bolt down the safe to begin with. If it's sitting atop plywood or blocks for ventilation or whatever, they can literally just put it on an appliance dolly and walk off with it. Or, if they have time on scene, they can push it over which makes it 10x easier to pry the door.

Here's a really good video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GHAyRO566sU

[drummer]

If my budget was Liberty range and fire protection wasn't much of a concern for me, I would look at the Sturdy Safes. Their standard ones are 3/16" walls and 5/16" doors that can be upgraded for a bit extra. Way better than most other RSCs.

Their fire liner, however, is somewhat bogus in my opinion. It may work great, there's just no tests proving either way. And none of the big boys use it. We call that a clue at my job.

As has been mentioned, try installing the safe in the corner of a room to hide two of the walls. Building an inexpensive storage cabinet around the safe can also provide additional security while giving you a place for miscellaneous shooting gear.

[TGS]

If my budget was Liberty range and fire protection wasn't much of a concern for me, I would look at the Sturdy Safes. Their standard ones are 3/16" walls and 5/16" doors that can be upgraded for a bit extra. Way better than most other RSCs.

Their fire liner, however, is somewhat bogus in my opinion. It may work great, there's just no tests proving either way. And none of the big boys use it. We call that a clue at my job.

As has been mentioned, try installing the safe in the corner of a room to hide two of the walls. Building an inexpensive storage cabinet around the safe can also provide additional security while giving you a place for miscellaneous shooting gear.

Sturdy's are pretty gnarly for the price. Unfortunately they don't have a dealer in my area, so it's a no-go as far as having in-home delivery/installation.

[underhook]

Sturdy's are pretty gnarly for the price. Unfortunately they don't have a dealer in my area, so it's a no-go as far as having in-home delivery/installation.

I had mine delivered to my garage then got a local lock smith to bolt it down. Was simple. Nothing specialized.

How good are Sturdy's relative to the others? Winchester etc?

I have a Secureit unit from my apartment living days. It's easy to move around etc. The interior storage is novel and I bought a retrofit kit from them for my Sturdy.

[hiro]

I'm in a similar boat to the OP. If things go to plan I will need to store 2 rifles, a shotgun, 3 pistols and ammo. I don't need/want a large safe.

I live in a low crime area and need to keep things from small hands and theft with pry bars/hammers/dremels. I'm unconvinced of the merits of fire protection in all but the most expensive of safes as without layers of insulation, the safe will simply conduct heat to it's contents. In the event of a fire, I understand that my insurance will cover the cost and while I am attached to my guns, there is nothing of any collector or sentimental value that outweighs the $ cost to replace. I live in a rental, 1000 square feet on the second floor. I have no garage or concrete floors and even if I could afford one, a heavy safe is not an option. This will change but not in the near future.

Having read the thread and it's links I am struggling to see any real practical difference between the sub $500 cabinets and "safes" between $500 and $3000. Given how easy it is to cut into the majority in this price bracket.

I like the idea of the SecureIt Ultra Light (https://www.secureitgunstorage.com/product/gun-cabinet-ultralight-gun-safe/) but what does it do that the Paragon 7501 (https://www.amazon.com/Paragon-7501-Electronic-Lock-Safe/dp/B009KMI01U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1528777755&sr=8-1&keywords=paragon+7501+5+gun+electronic+lock+and+sa fe) doesn't for $300 less?

What am I missing here?

[underhook]

I like the idea of the SecureIt Ultra Light (https://www.secureitgunstorage.com/product/gun-cabinet-ultralight-gun-safe/) but what does it do that the Paragon 7501 (https://www.amazon.com/Paragon-7501-Electronic-Lock-Safe/dp/B009KMI01U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1528777755&sr=8-1&keywords=paragon+7501+5+gun+electronic+lock+and+sa fe) doesn't for $300 less?

I was just part of a group by on Securit products (I just got the internal retrofit kit). The discounts were amazing. I think Securit has jacked it's prices up and I'd never pay full retail for their stuff now.

[TGS]

I had mine delivered to my garage then got a local lock smith to bolt it down. Was simple. Nothing specialized.

How good are Sturdy's relative to the others? Winchester etc?

I have a Secureit unit from my apartment living days. It's easy to move around etc. The interior storage is novel and I bought a retrofit kit from them for my Sturdy.

The safe isn't going in a garage and will need either specialized machine or strong man crew to get it inside where its going, so curbside delivery is a no go. I simply need more local support.

As for Sturdy's check out their videos. They're pretty awesome.

One thing to note is that their comparison video of an axe attack against an AMSEC BF is done against a BF without the interior 4ga liner, but rather the standard liner. Sort of misleading, given you could have it for the same price point as the Sturdy and basically have the same protection against an axe attack. AFAIK the concrete fill is more troublesome for someone trying to cut the safe open, not punch it open with an awl/axe. Something about dissimilar materials and the type of blade you'd be using to cut open the metal.....IDK, maybe someone in here with more know how can comment on that bit.

And, for the price of a maxed out Sturdy, you might as well just buy yourself an actual TL rated AMSEC because you're already there price wise.


I'm in a similar boat to the OP. If things go to plan I will need to store 2 rifles, a shotgun, 3 pistols and ammo. I don't need/want a large safe.

I live in a low crime area and need to keep things from small hands and theft with pry bars/hammers/dremels. I'm unconvinced of the merits of fire protection in all but the most expensive of safes as without layers of insulation, the safe will simply conduct heat to it's contents. In the event of a fire, I understand that my insurance will cover the cost and while I am attached to my guns, there is nothing of any collector or sentimental value that outweighs the $ cost to replace. I live in a rental, 1000 square feet on the second floor. I have no garage or concrete floors and even if I could afford one, a heavy safe is not an option. This will change but not in the near future.

Having read the thread and it's links I am struggling to see any real practical difference between the sub $500 cabinets and "safes" between $500 and $3000. Given how easy it is to cut into the majority in this price bracket.

I like the idea of the SecureIt Ultra Light (https://www.secureitgunstorage.com/product/gun-cabinet-ultralight-gun-safe/) but what does it do that the Paragon 7501 (https://www.amazon.com/Paragon-7501-Electronic-Lock-Safe/dp/B009KMI01U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1528777755&sr=8-1&keywords=paragon+7501+5+gun+electronic+lock+and+sa fe) doesn't for $300 less?

What am I missing here?

Nothing. Everything you laid out is why I've still got my Stack-On cabinet. Only now in my new home with a dedicated arms room, concrete floor and fire wall x2 border am I getting a more substantial safe. Even then, due to its location (deep in the alarmed house behind a hardened steel frame/door with high security locks, in its own room, itself being inside a house with security glass and steel frame/doors with high security locks), staying with a cabinet is probably not an irresponsible decision. I just want it.

That head ain't just a hat rack, buddy. You one of them thinkin' men.

If you mount the security cabinet sturdily to the wall and wooden floor, and with the safe in a corner facing a wall, it makes it harder to pry the door as well. They could always spend the time to pry it off the wall (since it's basically wood screws, not bolts in concrete) but that's also unlikely for your living situation with neighbors. If you're worried about someone purposely targeting your safe then yes, you need to jump up quite a bit in price/capability. The one reason you might want a safe in the $1500 range, however, is to give you protection against an unskilled crew with a sledge and prybar. So, it does get you something, but again that can be mitigated with where you put the cabinet and how it's positioned relative to other structures.

[hiro]

If you mount the security cabinet sturdily to the wall and wooden floor, and with the safe in a corner facing a wall, it makes it harder to pry the door as well. They could always spend the time to pry it off the wall (since it's basically wood screws, not bolts in concrete) but that's also unlikely for your living situation with neighbors. If you're worried about someone purposely targeting your safe then yes, you need to jump up quite a bit in price/capability. The one reason you might want a safe in the $1500 range, however, is to give you protection against an unskilled crew with a sledge and prybar. So, it does get you something, but again that can be mitigated with where you put the cabinet and how it's positioned relative to other structures.

TGS, thank you.

Plan at the moment is to mount the cabinet in a bedroom closet. The closet extends about 2 feet to the right past the door so it's in a fairly confined space. Which side the hinges are on will determine the wall and facing tho ideally I want to screw/bolt to the floor, external and internal walls.

[Cypher]

Plan at the moment is to mount the cabinet in a bedroom closet. The closet extends about 2 feet to the right past the door so it's in a fairly confined space.

Take it for what it's worth but I did something similar in my home with a dehumidifier that was rated for 1500 square feet and still had humidity issues and some rust

[Francis]

Just checking my emails tonight and see that FAS1 Safe is offering 18% off and free carpeting through Tuesday midnight. Use discount code DAD2018 for the discount.

[RJ]

Great thread.

We still haven’t found something yet for our needs. 3-4 pistols, some ammo, a few valuables etc. We had a Costco Combo Chinese one but gave it away downsizing. The 1.5 cu ft size was just about perfect, though, I just don’t really want another.

Have you guys ever looked at a distributed solution?

Meaning, several smaller safes or lock boxes stashed around the house. Seems like it would enable spreading the valuables out so they are not ‘all in one basket.’

I’m contemplating just such a situation...say a Simplex lock box by the bed, a box safe or lock box for ammo and what not, etc.

Thoughts?

[Grey]

Great thread.

We still haven’t found something yet for our needs. 3-4 pistols, some ammo, a few valuables etc. We had a Costco Combo Chinese one but gave it away downsizing. The 1.5 cu ft size was just about perfect, though, I just don’t really want another.

Have you guys ever looked at a distributed solution?

Meaning, several smaller safes or lock boxes stashed around the house. Seems like it would enable spreading the valuables out so they are not ‘all in one basket.’

I’m contemplating just such a situation...say a Simplex lock box by the bed, a box safe or lock box for ammo and what not, etc.

Thoughts?Makes sense, who makes good small safes?

Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk

[CWE]

I have a Liberty Fat Boy Jr that I keep all my weapons that aren't used for HD. Its a nice safe and I have no complaints about it.

Next to the bed I keep a G17 w/ TLR1 in a Gunvault Mini Safe, its good for what it does.

What im currently looking for is a small safe to keep in my master bedroom closet. This would be where I keep my carry guns , loaded mags, and some extra ammo. I would bolt it to the wall for extra protection from theft but mainly it would be to keep my kids from getting access to a loaded gun. I've been considering one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BGY6GPG/?coliid=I2TV4HG6SSO3G&colid=2E3SMU3NDGAKG&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

I don't really want to spend more than $100 and it needs to have electronic access. Anything better for the price??

[David S.]

Rich_Jenkins

What are you protecting against? What level of security do you want?

I’m sure it’s obvious that the safes you are talking about can be completely walked off with. Even if you bolted down to furniture, it wouldn’t require much effort for the bad guy to break it apart and and steal the whole thing. If you’re primarily concerned about preventing access to kids/grandkids, then maybe $30 Sentry File chest/safes at Walmart/Target are sufficient.

With respect, you don’t have a huge amount invested in your gun collection so high levels of security may not be necessary.

[RJ]

Rich_Jenkins

What are you protecting against? What level of security do you want?

I’m sure it’s obvious that the safes you are talking about can be completely walked off with. Even if you bolted down to furniture, it wouldn’t require much effort for the bad guy to break it apart and and steal the whole thing. If you’re primarily concerned about preventing access to kids/grandkids, then maybe $30 Sentry File chest/safes at Walmart/Target are sufficient.

With respect, you don’t have a huge amount invested in your gun collection so high levels of security may not be necessary.

It’s not just for the Glocks my friend. ;)

[David S.]

It’s not just for the Glocks my friend. ;)


https://youtu.be/zANvYB93u2g

:p

[TGS]

Great thread.

We still haven’t found something yet for our needs. 3-4 pistols, some ammo, a few valuables etc. We had a Costco Combo Chinese one but gave it away downsizing. The 1.5 cu ft size was just about perfect, though, I just don’t really want another.

Have you guys ever looked at a distributed solution?

Meaning, several smaller safes or lock boxes stashed around the house. Seems like it would enable spreading the valuables out so they are not ‘all in one basket.’

I’m contemplating just such a situation...say a Simplex lock box by the bed, a box safe or lock box for ammo and what not, etc.

Thoughts?


Makes sense, who makes good small safes?

Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk

We have my wife's SV500, but also several of the AMSEC HAS410 pistol boxes throughout the house. The HAS410 is made of a more substantial construction (thicker steel) than most store bought full size "gun safes" that are under $1500-$2000 and uses a Simplex lock.

They make all sorts of substantial little pistol boxes and safes of small sizes.

[RJ]

We have my wife's SV500, but also several of the AMSEC HAS410 pistol boxes throughout the house. The HAS410 is made of a more substantial construction (thicker steel) than most store bought full size "gun safes" that are under $1500-$2000 and uses a Simplex lock.

They make all sorts of substantial little pistol boxes and safes of small sizes.

Thanks, will look into these.

Related, I stumbled on to this yesterday: Chinese made, but appears to be a mechanical lock, with some self-declared fireproof rating. Likely not a TL-15 safe, and more of a RSC, but I was wondering if y’all have come across this brand:

Steelwater AMSWD-360 2-Hour Fireproof Home and Document Safe

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016LNH5JI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_O.bkBbSH1D7BC

It’s 1 cu ft, and not battery operated. And a weight I could just about manage.

Any thoughts on this for a RSC?

[RJ]

We have my wife's SV500, but also several of the AMSEC HAS410 pistol boxes throughout the house. The HAS410 is made of a more substantial construction (thicker steel) than most store bought full size "gun safes" that are under $1500-$2000 and uses a Simplex lock.

They make all sorts of substantial little pistol boxes and safes of small sizes.

American Security Hide-A-Safe Handgun Safe https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VS9G6O6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_t4ckBbMJ6SPE0

Very nice. Will look at AMSEC’s other, larger options as well.

[JCS]

American Security Hide-A-Safe Handgun Safe https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VS9G6O6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_t4ckBbMJ6SPE0

Very nice. Will look at AMSEC’s other, larger options as well.

If you find a good small safe please share because I’m in the market too. I just don’t have a big enough collection to justify a huge safe.

[RJ]

Looking at this RSC, a Hayman Dynavault DV-2219:

https://www.safeandvaultstore.com/products/hayman-dv-2219-dynavault-burglar-fire-safe-dv-2219

Made in Oviedo FL, where oddly I used to live. Online priced just under $1K. UL RSC, and fire rated 75 min @ 1,200°F. Old-school dial combo lock. No batteries. Adjustable shelves. Fabric lined.

It is 3.1 cu ft, which is bigger than I really wanted, but I think folks have told me to go bigger on a safe than you think you need.

Hmmm.

[TGS]

I purchases a B series a couple years ago with the 4 gage internal upgrade. I've been happy with it. It took some research on my part to order it then have a local locksmith install.


Thought I'd mention this.....AMSEC discontinued the BF HD models (with the 4ga liner) and replaced them with the new BFII. It's a play on it's certification under the new UL RSC Level II standard. Basically, a two man attack for 10 minutes on the door using any tools.

In other words, it's the TL standard but for 10 minutes instead of 15 . From what my locksmith described to me, it's basically the BF HD series but with the lockwork from their TL15/TL30 rated safes in the RF-line....so that says a lot about the general construction of your BF HD safe!

Badass safe. I wanted what you had or the BFII, but it would've taken 5 weeks to get a BFII and my locksmith isn't even sure if he could safely get it down my stairs.....even with the door removed, which apparently accounts for 1/3 of the weight. I went with a BF6024 instead.

Nice safe, Drummer. I'm jealous! :o

Also, since this thread is all about security and whatnot....ya'll should upgrade your door locks to Grade 1. They're awesome from a gun enthusiasts standpoint. The deadbolt is essentially an HK G3 bolt with rollers that lock into the frame. Nerd out with me for a second....how neat is that? Dr. Karl Meyer's creation (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/StG_45(M)) lives on....but in locks.

[drummer]

I didn't know the BF series had been changed/ modified. It took several weeks to get mine when I ordered it because was a custom order. But Amsec shipped exactly when they quoted me, pretty much to the day. My dad ordered a Fort Knox after I ordered the Amsec and their quote was not as accurate, supposedly due to a machine going down.

[RJ]

Appreciate these ideas.

We ended up ordering one of the items mentioned in this thread.

It was a little larger than I originally wanted, but I think that is ok.

Appreciate everyone’s comments here.

[ragnar_d]

Have you guys ever looked at a distributed solution?

Meaning, several smaller safes or lock boxes stashed around the house. Seems like it would enable spreading the valuables out so they are not ‘all in one basket.’

I’m contemplating just such a situation...say a Simplex lock box by the bed, a box safe or lock box for ammo and what not, etc.

Thoughts?
A little bit late, but I'm looking at doing something like that when I finally land in a place longer than 24 months, though a bit larger solution. My current safe is an older 24 gun Winchester branded safe from Sam's that I bought from a friend that was moving back about 8 years ago. My thoughts are to upgrade to a more substantial Amsec TL15 or TL30 rated safe with a similar footprint for the not seldom used/shot guns that would go in the workshop. Then get a smaller 12 gun safe (Amsec TF5517 (http://www.amsecusa.com/product/tf5517/) is the leading candidate) with my "everyday" guns to bolt to a concrete slab in my bedroom closet. Then a couple more "house guns" in quick access safes (like the Amsec safe you linked up a couple posts ago looks promising) in my office and a couple other areas.

Just my thoughts though, but I'm definitely a fan of distributing the guns around to other locations within the house. Partially for convenience, partially for not putting all my eggs in one basket.

[J0hnny]

Bumping this old thread... What kind of lock does everyone recommend? I'm looking at the Amsec ESL 10 vs a group 1 mechanical dial. While rapid access with an electronic keypad is a convenient I'm more invested in long term reliability (and immunity to EMP if that's even a credible threat)

[Super77]

Bumping this old thread... What kind of lock does everyone recommend?

I’d recommend the S&G 6600 series (https://sargentandgreenleaf.com/product/6600-series/)

My logic is that you want reliability over all else, and electronic locks reportedly have a lot more problems than good mechanical locks.

I agree with you that speed isn’t as important as reliability. For bump in the night, where speed matters, I have a few Fas1safe with simplex pushbutton locks throughout the house. But speed isn’t really a concern for securing the bulk of the collection in the big safe, which isn’t in a very accessible area anyway.