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VolGrad
02-11-2012, 06:16 PM
I have always been and still remain a GLOCK guy. However, I decided to see what all the hub-bub was about and picked up a pair of LNIB FS M&Ps to try. I now have a 9mm and .45acp, neither have mag or thumb safeties. The triggers on both felt quite nice, much better than I recall M&P triggers to feel. They both had a nice crisp break and a fairly average reset length but quite a positive reset feel. To be quite honest had I known they would feel that good prior to ordering Apex parts I probably would have just left them alone. Unfortunately, I ordered the parts prior to picking up the pistols.

I took them both to the range today for the first time and ran a few hundred rounds through them. Feeling pleased they both functioned properly I was ready to install the parts. Forum member jlw came over to help out in case I ran into any trouble. He recently installed Apex hard sears in his M&P45s.

My M&P45 only got a hard sear. I do think it feels better now but can't say I can tell a night/day difference as I've been told I would. I have no plans to do anything else to this pistol except install Ameriglo HACK NS. I have them already but am hoping to borrow a sight pusher. The installation of the hard sear was relatively uneventful.

The M&P9 is where the fun began. For this gun I ordered the full Competition Action Enhancement Kit and the RAM.

jlw and I started by doing pretty much the full install of the Comp AEK. We didn't attempt to install the striker block though since we didn't have a sight pusher on hand. From the kit we installed the trigger spring, the sear spring, the hard sear, and the striker spring. We both immediately noticed the reset on the trigger was vastly different than before and not in a favorable way. The reset point was pretty much all the way out. Both of us felt and heard points along the way that felt as if they would/should have been the reset point. I am quite sure with the trigger in that configuration I would short stroke the trigger trying to work the reset.

Not being familiar enough with the M&P or the Apex parts neither of us really knew which particular spring made it feel that way.

We basically worked backwards replacing each spring with the original in turn, one at a time, to see if we could isolate it. In the end I am back to only having the hard sear and the RAM in the gun. All else was put back to factory. The trigger feel is still not back to what it was before we began and I am quite disappointed. What doesn't really make sense though is the reset should feel pretty much like it did originally now since all the springs are back to factory. The only difference is the hard sear and the RAM. I just don't understand what happened.

Can anyone else provide any insight on what might have happened to make the length of reset so much longer? It feels like there is a point about halfway through the reset where it sort of clicks but doesn't reset. It's very odd.

To be clear, I am not suggesting the parts or the gun are defective in any way. I am just trying to figure out the combinations and what makes it feel the way it does.

FTR if I had it to do all over again I would have only put the hard sear in this gun and left all else factory (except for the HACK sights I have for it).

MEH
02-11-2012, 06:26 PM
We didn't attempt to install the striker block though since we didn't have a sight pusher on hand.

I think I found your issue. :)

If there is only one thing the M&P needs it's the striker block replaced or smoothed. Unfortunately, you can't do either without removing the rear sight. Those hard angles you see on the striker block are providing the "clicky" feedback you are feeling before the trigger bar is actually reset.

Savage Hands
02-11-2012, 07:11 PM
The usb will assist in the feel of the reset and the sear should have shortened the length of the reset and overtravel at the expense of pretravel. Bending in the trigger bar slightly will make the reset more pronounced. I think you would have preferred the duty carry setup over the competition setup like myself. In my case there was a huge difference in the before and after since my factory trigger was atrocious and my install was done at Apex where everything was polished and tuned.

VolGrad
02-11-2012, 07:18 PM
The usb will assist in the feel of the reset and the sear should have shortened the length of the reset and overtravel at the expense of pretravel. Bending in the trigger bar slightly will make the reset more pronounced. I think you would have preferred the duty carry setup over the competition setup like myself. In my case there was a huge difference in the before and after since my factory trigger was atrocious and my install was done at Apex where everything was polished and tuned.
My intentions for the M&P9 were for IDPA only. I figured the Comp AEK would give me a trigger feel more in line with the Vogel Challenger from www.GlockTriggers.com I have in my G17 I currently use for IDPA.

I have heard of the bending the trigger bar trick but wasn't sure exactly where and how much to bend it. I didn't even know what direction to bend it. When I get the USB installed .... if it fixes what I don't like about the current feel ... I might start putting the springs from the kit back in one at a time to try out.

I still can't figure out what we did today that made the trigger actually feel worse to us both than before we started.

orionz06
02-11-2012, 08:26 PM
I think the rounded striker block makes the biggest difference. I have a few of my own that feel great with a stock sear. I would really suggest it, despite the extra effort needed to replace it.

VolGrad
02-11-2012, 09:30 PM
I think the rounded striker block makes the biggest difference. I have a few of my own that feel great with a stock sear. I would really suggest it, despite the extra effort needed to replace it.

I'm hoping to get it in Monday. The local cop shop pushed M&Ps now. I stopped by this afternoon to borrow it but it was locked up and the guy with the key was off. He works Monday so I am going to see if I can stop in after work. From there I'll work backwards again putting the comp springs back in ... maybe.

DocGKR
02-11-2012, 11:47 PM
If you have problems or questions, you might wish to contact Apex...

TAP
02-12-2012, 10:09 AM
Vol - Tod told me that the USB or polishing the striker block (in my case) makes the largest difference. I'm not a fan of the RAM and prefer the bent trigger bar for reset. If you end up sticking with the M&P have Tod do some tweaking...totally worth it.

Savage Hands
02-12-2012, 10:19 AM
IMO having the RAM and the tweaked trigger bar will give you the best reset, here's an old video of my M&P with the DCAEK and tweaked trigger bar having a Pre-release RAM installed with the before and after differences.

http://youtu.be/tp2fmox8uJ8

VolGrad
02-14-2012, 05:54 PM
Got the HACKs installed today and dropped the USB in the M&P9. The USB did make a HUGE difference .... in a good way. I am happy with the trigger in its current state. I will shoot it as is to make sure the sights are zero then will start playing with the different comp springs to see if I like it better/worse than the trigger in its current state.