Looking for advice on a S&W Model 36...

[LJP]

I have a S&W Model 36 that I bought used almost 20 years ago. The serial number suggests a 1976/77 manufacture date, which is nice, since it's the same age I am! At any rate, it has a somewhat worn nickel finish, but functions fine. Many moons ago, I had a gunsmith do a trigger job. At the time, he cut the mainspring, which caused some primer ignition problems. Subsequently, I took it to a different gunsmith that I trust, and had him go through the gun, replace springs, and bob the hammer. Which leads me to my question...

Do the revolver experts here think it would be worthwhile to send the gun to Robar and have the NP3 treatment applied inside and out? There's nothing really wrong with the finish on the gun, I would just like to make it look a bit nicer and smoother. I'm not a huge fan of nickel plated guns, and would prefer something a bit more subdued.

I realize this is a subjective question, but is it worth it to invest that much into the gun? Or, should I just look for a new no-lock J-frame?

On those rare occasions that I carry a revolver, it is usually my Ruger LCR. But, the J-frame has always seemed a bit more svelte to me. My model 36 does hold some appeal due to the fact that it most likely dates from the year I was born.

What says the P-F hive mind?

24326

[mmc45414]

would be worthwhile to send the gun to Robar and have the NP3 treatment applied inside and out?
You know what I hate? People that jump in, make the first post, that really don't know what they are talking about, like I am about to... :)

Will Robar do a nickel gun? It was always my understanding that the plating would need to be stripped and nickel is hard?

As I mentioned, I really dunno...

[LJP]

My understanding from perusing the price list is that they can strip the existing nickel finish and then apply NP3...

[L-2]

I vote for getting another (or new) J-frame; putting several hundred or a thousand rounds through the new gun; modifying the new gun to personal preference; and now you'll have two J-frames.

For my needs/wants, I've found two J-frames to be the right number for me. The subject Mod. 36 looks great. If I were to put more money into it I'd want a 2nd J-frame to have while the Mod. 36 was away. Personally, I'd leave the Mod. 36 alone, but still get a 2nd J-frame for a spare. Perhaps the Ruger LCR is your spare, however.

Edit to add: I've also just now looked at Robar's price list and I'm coming up with $350 external of revolver; $150 for internals of revolver; $80 to strip existing plating; and this doesn't include shipping the gun to Arizona and back.

[Trooper224]

It doesn't really look to be in bad shape. It doesn't have any collectability due to the previous work, so you have nothing to lose by having it refinished. If it were mine I'd just dump the money into a new holster or some ammo, but I happen to like nickeled guns. Monetarily you have nothing to gain or lose by refinishing it. Just depends on what you're going for.

[SeriousStudent]

I'll just leave this here: https://pistol-forum.com/showthread.php?22652-HiTS-Defensive-Revolver

I am about to do a similar project on a 3" nickel-plated Model 10.

If you have food in the fridge, bills are paid, and nobody at home goes to be hungry? Then do it. It's only money, and they aren't going to bury you in a mound of cash.

[JHC]

It's glorious as is. Leave it alone I say.

[Hambo]

Search some Dagga Boy threads. Then order a hand tooled holster, some vintage Nyclad ammo, and rock on.

[RevolverRob]

Hell, not only NP3 it. But have a dovetail sight cut in and put in a night sight.

Might as well.

I concur with the folks who said it's only money. If the bills are paid and everyone has food in their bellies, do it.

I suppose you could strip the nickle yourself and have it cerakoted to save some bucks.

[Bushytale]

LJP, what part of the country are you in? I just saw new 642 at the Miami gun show for $319.00 Keep the 36 as is pick up another J as L-2 said. Your 36 looks pretty good I would keep it as is.

[BillSWPA]

If this were my gun, I would leave it as is, with the exception of possibly painting the front sight orange, depending on how visible or not you find it in its current configuration. The finish does not look bad to me.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[willie]

As a S&W guy of a few decades, I say keep and use the 36 as it is. The picture shows honest wear. The most excellent company Robar will of course refinish your revolver but will charge extra for striping the nickel finish. The cost of the total project would approximate the price of a new J frame. Another consideration about having special finishes applied to handguns is that from this point on, repairing them may alter or damage the finish. Too, any new replacement parts would of course lack the special finish. So, before I sent an older gun to be refinished, I would make certain that the piece was in perfect working order and not in need of adjustment.

My opinion--not accepted by all--is that applying special finishes to firearms does not necessarily increase their value. I learned this fact after having worked part time at gun shops over many years. That said, I would very much like to have one of my revolvers refinished at Robar. To the op I say that he can't go wrong with a Robar finish but must add that his old Smith won't have as much soul afterwards despite its being more attractive(and probably more serviceable).

[LtDave]

If this were my gun, I would leave it as is, with the exception of possibly painting the front sight orange, depending on how visible or not you find it in its current configuration. The finish does not look bad to me.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My thoughts as well. I'd leave it alone.

[LJP]

Thanks for all the comments. I will probably go with the majority opinion and leave the finish as is, although a new set of grips isn't out of the question. I might also call the S&W Performance Center this coming week and just ask about their services. Might be a considerably less expensive option.

The other advantage of getting another J-Frame that occurred to me is that I can get an Airweight J-Frame for carry and have my Model 36 as a training backup.

Thanks again.

[SeriousStudent]

You can find a no-lock 642 for around $360 is you look.

As you mentioned, that would certainly be easier and cheaper.

[Bushytale]

The 642 I referred to in my previous post for $319 was no lock at a few dealers.

[45dotACP]

Ironic, because I'm about to get something similar done to my model 36. To put some context to it though, it is absolutely bare metal on the right side, the cylinder is losing timing and one chamber doesn't let empty brass fall free.

I'll be sending it off Friday I hope.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

[LJP]

Ironic, because I'm about to get something similar done to my model 36. To put some context to it though, it is absolutely bare metal on the right side, the cylinder is losing timing and one chamber doesn't let empty brass fall free.

I'll be sending it off Friday I hope.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

Where are you sending yours? Thankfully, mine has none of the problems you describe!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk