New Streamlight TLR-7

[JCS]

Streamlight was supposed to announce a new light at shot show and looks like it has leaked.

The Streamlight TLR-7 is a single cell light that puts out 500 lumens. Looks like the redesigned the activation switch. Also looks like it might sit flush with the end of a g19.

Looks like a winner! 2289722898

Photos and info from Instagram page tactipaws

[spinmove_]

OMG yes!


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[Up1911Fan]

I'll be a guinea pig on this.

[LittleLebowski]

Nice. Do want.

[Kram]

Very cool! Do want! Curious on price.

[BillSWPA]

Since it is a Streamlight, hopefully holster makers will make some good IWB holsters for it.

[orionz06]

Since it is a Streamlight, hopefully holster makers will make some good IWB holsters for it.

Unless the switching is dog shit, which I'm not ruling out based on those pics.

[JodyH]

Hopefully this'll fit the H&K SK's and the 45C.

[ragnar_d]

Curious about what battery it takes. Not really interested in anything beyond rechargeable, AA/AAA, or 123 powered lights (and I'm slowing removing the 123 lights from the inventory as I can and replacing them with 14500/18650 lights).

[lyodbraun]

Looks nice, wonder what the price will be on these ?

[nightstalker865]

This is going to sell well.


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[fly out]

Rumored to take a single 123 cell, replaceable from the front?

[TAZ]

Size wise it looks like the APLc and that runs on CR2. I’m thinking that AAA/AA are too long

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180109/e639e8f2b5cfeddfff5e1adc1e5e8c9e.jpg

Hope the switching is solid. If so, they will fly off of shelves.

[Gray222]

Nice.

Now they need to make one USB charging.

[Bigghoss]

I'm guessing it takes a CR2, like the TLR-3 does. I'm curious about the switch but I'm optimistic. If nothing else this is an encouraging continuation of a trend for lights designed to go on compact guns like the G19.

[Screwball]

I’m guessing the switch is like the XC1-B... quick tap for constant; hold, then release for momentary.

Kind of up in the air on it. I still use the TLR-3 on my Glock 30S, with holsters setup for it. To switch, I really have to like the fit on the 30SF frame and controls. I do like the Lumens.

[JCS]

The guy who leaked it claims it takes a single cr123 battery.

[texasaggie2005]

Nice.

Now they need to make one USB charging.

"Wait for me, I need to go unplug my pistol from the computer."

2018 sayings that would make an '80s gun nut triple up on the tin foil.

[HopetonBrown]

Just saw a TLR8 on Instagram. A TLR7 with laser.

[nalesq]

This is all well and good, but I really wish Streamlight would come out with a better grip activated switch for their TLR lights, more like the Surefire DG switches.

Last I checked, the available TLR grip switch is terrible due to its grip altering bulk and over-sensitivity to unintentional light activation.


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[BillSWPA]

This is all well and good, but I really wish Streamlight would come out with a better grip activated switch for their TLR lights, more like the Surefire DG switches.

Last I checked, the available TLR grip switch is terrible due to its grip altering bulk and over-sensitivity to unintentional light activation.


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I tried to click "like" but it didn't work.

A grip-activated switch with minimal alteration of the grip would be a real plus. Adding other things to the grip on a 9mm Glock does not work well for me.

[Qaz98]

"Wait for me, I need to go unplug my pistol from the computer."

2018 sayings that would make an '80s gun nut triple up on the tin foil.How about hands free? Wi-Fi capability? "Alexa! Activate my TLR7! ALEXA!!"

Moments later..."Alexa...dial 911."

500 lumens is great.

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[ragnar_d]

Nice.

Now they need to make one USB charging.

I'd settle for a decent rechargeable, but USB charging would work. I've become really spoiled by my rechargeable lights and not having to spend the coin on lithium 123s.

[NH Shooter]

I'd settle for a decent rechargeable, but USB charging would work.

A USB port is just one more place for water and dirt to get in. IMO, the preferred way would be to give the light a wider range of input voltage (say up to 4.2 volts for a single CR123 cell device) to be able to use a Li-ion rechargeable battery. This would also give the option of either using a primary CR123 cell or the Li-ion.

[shiv]

I can’t say this light does much for me. Likely an expensive battery that isn’t as widely available as 123s, and it’s so short it won’t act as a stand-off device. I’ll be passing.


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[ragnar_d]

A USB port is just one more place for water and dirt to get in. IMO, the preferred way would be to give the light a wider range of input voltage (say up to 4.2 volts for a single CR123 cell device) to be able to use a Li-ion rechargeable battery. This would also give the option of either using a primary CR123 cell or the Li-ion.
That would be handy. I think the USB port could be done without much issue, but I'd take rechargable cells in a heartbeat however I could get them. Still a little miffed that the dual fuel 1L-1AA won't take 14500 cells (they'll physically fit, but Streamlight said the voltage is a no-go for the circuitry), maybe in the future after they 18650 all the lights they can 14500 some smaller lights.

[mtnbkr]

A USB port is just one more place for water and dirt to get in.

FWIW, I use bicycle lights that support USB charging (mini-USB port on the light). If the little rubber cover can keep water, dirt, and mud out while mountain biking at night, I'm sure this won't be a problem for a gun light.

Chris

[BillSWPA]

If it uses CR2 batteries, the Titanium Innovations brand is available from Battery Junction for about $1/cell. While I would not use these in multi-cell lights, I do use them in single cell lights, including the Foursevens MLR2 lights currently on my and my wife’s keychains. This battery size should not stop anyone from buying this light if they would otherwise want it.


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[orionz06]

FWIW, I use bicycle lights that support USB charging (mini-USB port on the light). If the little rubber cover can keep water, dirt, and mud out while mountain biking at night, I'm sure this won't be a problem for a gun light.

Chris

Concur.

[Cory]

I don't have a Px4CC, but I'm over here casually wondering if this would fit on it. Seems like it would be the first light with decent output that would.

-Cory

[t1tan]

I wouldn't be worried about a USB port, with the amount of devices I carry I've never had a port get plugged or fucked up through daily use, but wish companies would catch on, ditch micro and move to USB-C.


Although I'd be very happy to see a totally sealed light with Qi wireless charging.

[NH Shooter]

FWIW, even though Streamlight does not specify this, my PolyTac (which lists two CR123A batteries as the only power choice) runs just fine on a single 16650 Li-ion battery (4.2 volts fully charged).

http://www.canonshooter.com/photos2/polytac-3.jpg

[Gio]

I'm anxiously awaiting reports on the switching. In my opinion, the TLR-1 has the best switching on the market for a right handed pistol shooter (maybe not so much for lefties). I'm a little disappointed they went away from it on this light. I'm not a fan of the multi-mode switching off of the same switch (i.e. how long your press it determines constant or momentary)...hopefully this doesn't follow suit.

[11B10]

I’m guessing the switch is like the XC1-B... quick tap for constant; hold, then release for momentary.

Kind of up in the air on it. I still use the TLR-3 on my Glock 30S, with holsters setup for it. To switch, I really have to like the fit on the 30SF frame and controls. I do like the Lumens.


Screwball, do you have a laser on your 30S?

[Screwball]

Screwball, do you have a laser on your 30S?

Nope, the TLR-3 is just the light. TLR-4 is the compact light with the laser.

I’m really not a fan of rail mounted lights with a laser. I have a TLR-6, and leave the light/laser mode as default... but I really don’t use the laser.

[Screwball]

https://youtu.be/HvOR77nSPAQ

Price is a little high than expected for Streamlight, but I’m buying one.

Info also up on Streamlight’s website.

[Mike C]

They did great with this new light 500 lm, plus strobe as an option and still runs cr123's, all in the footprint of the APLc color me impressed.

[Gio]

https://youtu.be/HvOR77nSPAQ

Price is a little high than expected for Streamlight, but I’m buying one.

Info also up on Streamlight’s website.

Where are you seeing the price? (can't find it on website)

[Up1911Fan]

Where are you seeing the price? (can't find it on website)

In the video.

[Screwball]

Where are you seeing the price? (can't find it on website)

Said it in the review... around 12:30.

MSRP is $215, figured street would be around $199.

I was looking at a XC1-B, so saving some coin compared to that. I picked up my TLR-3 for like $80 (still on my 30S), and recently got another TLR-1 HL (800 Lumen, mostly dedicated for my TAC-14) for $106 via Amazon. I prefer the smaller footprint, but we are almost doubling the price from the larger model. Not Surefire pricing, but definitely not common with Streamlight... however, should note it is also waterproof, for those who want that.

[Mike C]

Said it in the review... around 12:30.

MSRP is $215, figured street would be around $199.

I was looking at a XC1-B, so saving some coin compared to that. I picked up my TLR-3 for like $80 (still on my 30S), and recently got another TLR-1 HL (800 Lumen, mostly dedicated for my TAC-14) for $106 via Amazon. I prefer the smaller footprint, but we are almost doubling the price from the larger model. Not Surefire pricing, but definitely not common with Streamlight... however, should note it is also waterproof, for those who want that.

I picked up my XC1B for about 230-235 shipped. So it's not much more money and so far the standard 750 mah Eneloops look like about the same output compared to the black 900 mah ones. $35 extra bucks for s surefire isn't much more to pay for. In addition I really like the construction of SF's stuff and I just had a recent interaction with their CS and it is freaking great,(I of course received a light with fucking bent activation leavers, my shitty luck) I like not having to pay for CR123's so you can easily recoup the cost if you do practice with your light regularly. Having strobe function to mask movement might be worth the price of having to run 123's thought. I may have to snag one of these up to give it a shot. Solid looking offering for sure. Great to see programmable lockout of functions on a WML that compact. It make me excited to see what the future holds for these things.

[Screwball]

I picked up my XC1B for about 230-235 shipped. So it's not much more money and so far the standard 750 mah Eneloops look like about the same output compared to the black 900 mah ones. $35 extra bucks for s surefire isn't much more to pay for. In addition I really like the construction of SF's stuff and I just had a recent interaction with their CS and it is freaking great,(I of course received a light with fucking bent activation leavers, my shitty luck) I like not having to pay for CR123's so you can easily recoup the cost if you do practice with your light regularly. Having strobe function to mask movement might be worth the price of having to run 123's thought. I may have to snag one of these up to give it a shot. Solid looking offering for sure. Great to see programmable lockout of functions on a WML that compact. It make me excited to see what the future holds for these things.

If they did a MSRP in the $150ish range, I’d be more excited (after the initial release, I’m sure they will come down in price... happened with all of the TLR line). Don’t get me wrong, I’ll probably pick it up and get a new holster when White Hat starts offering them as an option, but not really a fan of paying $200 for something that the previous generation was $80. I do have to consider the benefits compared to the TLR-3, but that price really is way out of the norm for Streamlight.

I’m a Surefire fan (have two Fury lights within a few feet of me, right now), but wasn’t impressed with their CS. Had to send a switch for a Scout light back, and I’ve had better experience with Chinese companies on eBay in regards to communication (even the guy that in Europe that did my Tokarev grips had a system in place to see status of my order). Actually forgot about it for about a month and a half (light on my Tavor, and took me an hour or so to find the pressure switch for it), until the replacement came in the mail. Also, I’m not a fan of the X300 switches.

CR123s are just something I use... especially with Surefire handhelds. Other Streamlights use them, and I can move away from the CR2 with the TLR-3. I do have a few holsters made for the 30S with TLR-3, so it isn’t going anywhere... but if I like the TLR-7, I’ll get new molds for it (White Hat will be a simple swap, Ares Tactical shoulder holster will need a new side for the gun; time really will tell).

I really was drawn to the XC1-B because of the AAA battery. Mentioned in another thread, but it is a size that I have a metric s*** ton of, being I use them with my insulin pump (Type 1 diabetic). I always have extras; home, work, car, jackets, etc. Been on it for four years (length of the warranty), so time to upgrade... new one uses AA batteries. [emoji23] While AAA is still easy to get, that change really makes the XC1-B not as appealing. I’m still buying CR123, I’ll have AA, so the TLR-7 is a little more useful, for me.

I am liking the key system for the TLR-7. With the TLR-3, the C key is what works for Glocks... but on the 30S (SF frame), it sits out a decent amount of space from the trigger guard. Not to the point where I can’t reach the controls, and coming back a 1/4” won’t put the bezel behind the dust cover, but for a compact light, closer in is beneficial. The keys in the TLR-7 look like you’ll be able to get a little further back... or at least it looks promising.

[joshs]

https://youtu.be/HvOR77nSPAQ

Price is a little high than expected for Streamlight, but I’m buying one.

Info also up on Streamlight’s website.

Looks like the key system might make this work with the short rail on the PX4 Compact.

[BJV]

Looks like the key system might make this work with the short rail on the PX4 Compact.

Around 11:35 in the linked video a list of pistol/key combinations is shown for the TLR-7/8, and the PX4 Storm Subcompact is on it. Do lights that fit the PX4 Subcompact also fit the PX4 Compact?

[joshs]

Around 11:35 in the linked video a list of pistol/key combinations is shown for the TLR-7/8, and the PX4 Storm Subcompact is on it. Do lights that fit the PX4 Subcompact also fit the PX4 Compact?

Not sure, I've never compared the rails.

[BillSWPA]

The light looks impressive on the video. The output seems perfect for a pistol mounted light, although I could see the advantage off more throw on a rifle. Switching seems decent, and I would probably leave the high only setting alone.

If the holster makers come out with good IWB options for this light, I could be tempted, particularly if it is available for a lower price after the initial release.

CR 123 is not expensive when purchased online in bulk. Surefire and Battery Station are inexpensive and made in the US. I have a large number of Surefire CR123 already from before I started using 16650, 18650, and most recently 16340 in my EDC lights. Unlike CR2 which I only use in single cell lights, I would absolutely want made in US or made in Japan for CR123, which I also use in 2 cell lights.

[Ballistic_RT]

Not a fan of the activation. Same way with the APL series of lights. If i have to push inward on a "paddle" in the same direction as the trigger to activate the light they can keep it. If you have to activate the light like that you may as well use a SERPA holster as well while your at it.

[BillSWPA]

Not a fan of the activation. Same way with the APL series of lights. If i have to push inward on a "paddle" in the same direction as the trigger to activate the light they can keep it. If you have to activate the light like that you may as well use a SERPA holster as well while your at it.

If you are activating the light with your support hand thumb, I do not see the issue. If you are activating the light with the trigger finger, you are probably going to end up just leaving this or any other WML on.


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[Bigghoss]

I don't like the switch if for no other reason than none of my other lights work that way.

[Ballistic_RT]

If you are activating the light with your support hand thumb, I do not see the issue. If you are activating the light with the trigger finger, you are probably going to end up just leaving this or any other WML on.


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Having a toggle type paddle (seen on the TLR-1 and x300 series) is a superior activation method IMO. It allows use of either support hand thumb or primary hand index finger. It also does not need any force placed in the same direction of the trigger. Regardless of if you use the support hand thumb or not. The only thing that needs to be making any movement in the same direction of the trigger guard/ trigger should be the primary hand index finger when the decision to fire has been made. Thats just my opinion.

[RevolverRob]

Is there a compelling reason to change the switch? The rocker-type activation on the TLR 1-4 series lights is by far the best light mounted switch on the market, IMO. It is very positive, easy to manipulate with the firing or support hand, and the TLR-1, in particular, is an extremely robust light. The switches on the Surefire are second and the APL is a distant third.

FYI - for sure confirmed it runs a CR123 - https://www.streamlight.com/en/products/detail/index/tlr-7 - Which is at least good news, switching to a CR2 would be silly.

[Screwball]

https://youtu.be/bJnDf2x4C-A

Another review...

The one thing I heard, past 20:00, was something along the lines that he talked to an engineer from Streamlight... and something about it may have been designed to be modular (nothing specific past that). The reviewer mentioned he would think the back switch section could be removed with the three screws, and maybe a different switch setup could be used. Nothing official, and while it seems smart, they also could be talking about bezels for modularity (make a larger weapon light, with higher Lumens?). Just something to note... could be utter BS, but I’d be way more interested if they gave an option for different switches. And I’d probably have one of each to see what works the best for me.

One thing that was clear from the video, February ship date. [emoji106]

[Ballistic_RT]

Is there a compelling reason to change the switch? The rocker-type activation on the TLR 1-4 series lights is by far the best light mounted switch on the market, IMO. It is very positive, easy to manipulate with the firing or support hand, and the TLR-1, in particular, is an extremely robust light. The switches on the Surefire are second and the APL is a distant third.

FYI - for sure confirmed it runs a CR123 - https://www.streamlight.com/en/products/detail/index/tlr-7 - Which is at least good news, switching to a CR2 would be silly.

If i could get the super easy toggle of the the TLR series, with the x300 set up (toggle in any direction for constant, push in for momentary), it would be pure money. I really like the x300u switchology, the switches themselves are stupidly stiff though.

[Bigghoss]

If i could get the super easy toggle of the the TLR series, with the x300 set up (toggle in any direction for constant, push in for momentary), it would be pure money. I really like the x300u switchology, the switches themselves are stupidly stiff though.

I was thinking the exact same thing. I like the TLR-1 through 4 but I like the way the Surefire works. I also like the price of the TLR-1 more than the Surefire X300. :D

[Gio]

If i could get the super easy toggle of the the TLR series, with the x300 set up (toggle in any direction for constant, push in for momentary), it would be pure money. I really like the x300u switchology, the switches themselves are stupidly stiff though.

In my experience, I think the TLR-1 switching is the best as well. I’m not crazy about he push forward momentary on the x300 bc it’s nearly impossible to do with a strong firing grip and you’ll immediately lose the light activation under recoil.

With the TLR-1, you can hold the gun with a solid two handed firing grip and hold the switch in the momentary on position with your support hand thumb even through recoil. As soon as you break your firing grip to move, reload, or clear a malfunction, the light goes off. Obviously, this only works for right handed shooters. I can do the same thing with the x300, except I have to consciously break my firing grip to turn the light off for any movement or weapon manipulation. With this new design (similar to apl), you’d also likely lose the momentary under recoil, so you’re better off tapping the light into constant on and back off again as needed.

[RevolverRob]

In my experience, I think the TLR-1 switching is the best as well. I’m not crazy about he push forward momentary on the x300 bc it’s nearly impossible to do with a strong firing grip and you’ll immediately lose the light activation under recoil.

With the TLR-1, you can hold the gun with a solid two handed firing grip and hold the switch in the momentary on position with your support hand thumb even through recoil. As soon as you break your firing grip to move, reload, or clear a malfunction, the light goes off. Obviously, this only works for right handed shooters. I can do the same thing with the x300, except I have to consciously break my firing grip to turn the light off for any movement or weapon manipulation. With this new design (similar to apl), you’d also likely lose the momentary under recoil, so you’re better off tapping the light into constant on and back off again as needed.

Almost exactly my experience of TLR-1/2 compared to the X300.

I, personally, do not care for the "push anywhere for momentary, approach of the Surefire. My primary issue there being the sensitivity (or lack there of, at times) of the "push for momentary" and also that I do not have particularly long fingers such that it's a stretch to reliably activate an X300 on a G19-sized gun (with my strong hand) and impossible on a G17-sized gun. By contrast, no problems activating the TLR-1 rocker switch in momentary or constant on a G17-sized gun and it's easy on a compact gun.

___

But I suppose back to my question, is there a compelling reason to change the switch structure on the TLR-7/8 platform? Is there something I'm missing here or is it strictly shrinking the package size?

[That Guy]

Huh. So am I the only one here who dislikes the TLR-1? Granted, I am left-handed... But in my experience the switching feels very illogical; you have to press one way on one side of the light but when you switch to support hand shooting, now for the same function you have to move the switch in the opposite direction! Also, there is no way for me to use the light with a normal firing grip. And the damn thing goes off too easily, accidental light activations seem impossible to avoid. And the light has no off switch for transporting it, which combined with how easily the light comes on makes me worry about setting my range bag on fire.

I for one find this new switch setup of the TLR-7 quite interesting.

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[NH Shooter]

I like the size, 500-lumen output and beam pattern of this light. Like others have already mentioned though, I'm not thrilled with the switch - mainly because it looks like it creates a longer reach than most others. Combine that with a large trigger guard (which positions the light further forward) and short fingers, you end up with an impossible reach without major support hand shift.

I found the Inforce APL on my Glock 17 to be perfect for me, I could even reach the paddle with my trigger finger. The same light on the PPQ is positioned further forward, out of reach of the trigger finger but still manageable with the support hand thumb. That said, the APL could come back on the PPQ rail at least a quarter inch before contacting the front of the trigger guard, which would position it within easier reach.

Having owned an X300, TLR-1 and the APL, I still think the APL has the best switch ergonomics.

[Screwball]

Huh. So am I the only one here who dislikes the TLR-1?

I’m sure others feel the same, but I think a lot like those controls better.

For me, I started on the Insight M3... so it just feels more instinctive to run a TLR style switch. Kind of like people with firearms... sometimes, you just get set in your ways.

I also run the TLR-1 on a few long guns, as well as my TAC-14. Push momentary wouldn’t be easy in those roles.

One thing that this thread really showed me is that I’ll probably never use my X300U-B... so tossed it up for sale on my state’s gun forum. Hopefully it covers some of the cost for a new TLR-7. [emoji106]

[ExMachina]

Huh. So am I the only one here who dislikes the TLR-1?

Nope you're not alone. The TLR1 switch has two big flaws IMO:
1) it's much too easy to inadvertendly knock on (or off) during regular weapon manipulation. I do not like the light firing accidently and greatly prefer the stiffer switch on the XD300
2) momentary and constant "ON" for the TLR1 are different motions depending on the side of the gun you're accessing the swith from--IMO this is not intuitive and adds unnecessary complication

The new TLR7 switch design looks to have at least solved point #2...and with a manual lock-out feature on the bezel, I'd be hapy to live with a light switch (though would still prefer some resistance)

[Screwball]

Starting to appear on different websites...

MidwayUSA has them listed for $129.99, but cannot order until they arrive (says 2/8). LA Police Gear has them for $116.99, and allows you to order. Ordered this morning.

They have a 5% off coupon, so if you do economy shipping, will be a little less than the listed price.

When I get it, will post pictures with it on my 30S. Actually excited about it, but will have to get a new shell for my AIWB holster.

[Gio]

Does anyone know if the TLR8 will fit in Safariland ALS holsters made for TLR-1's or does the laser part come down too far?

[Curry]

Starting to appear on different websites...

MidwayUSA has them listed for $129.99, but cannot order until they arrive (says 2/8). LA Police Gear has them for $116.99, and allows you to order. Ordered this morning.

They have a 5% off coupon, so if you do economy shipping, will be a little less than the listed price.

When I get it, will post pictures with it on my 30S. Actually excited about it, but will have to get a new shell for my AIWB holster.


Just placed an order for one on LA Police Gear. Use code "15OFF" and it makes it 104.43 delivered.

[DreadPirateMoyer]

Fits HK SK/C pistols. :)

https://i.imgur.com/N4DtMRa.jpg

[TheDLoon]

Are there any holsters yet that will support a G19 with this light?

[Screwball]

Are there any holsters yet that will support a G19 with this light?

Supposedly, some that fit the TLR-1 may fit the TLR-7...

I checked with White Hat right when I ordered mine, and was told they are looking for one to use for molds. Will be getting extra Kydex for that light, so I’ll have options for it and the TLR-3.

[orionz06]

Supposedly, some that fit the TLR-1 may fit the TLR-7...

Not that I'm aware of. More so, if one were carrying in a TLR-1 holster the better TLR-1 should be the preferred light.

The retention for the TLR-1 is all on the light and the TLR-7 is smaller. It may work in certain duty holsters that retain on the ejection port but otherwise Streamlight has been wrong on a few accounts with regards to fit of the new light.

[Screwball]

Just passing along what was said at Shot Show by Streamlight...

[orionz06]

Just passing along what was said at Shot Show by Streamlight...

Yeah, it took four of their people to tell me that it would indeed fit a few guns that it didn't actually fit. I was rather disappointed with some of the stuff they were freely saying that was just incorrect.

[DreadPirateMoyer]

Fits HK SK/C pistols. :)

https://i.imgur.com/N4DtMRa.jpg

Correction: this light DOES NOT fit the HK45C, unfortunately. Still fits the SK series just fine.

https://i.imgur.com/PXBqXnN.gif

[John10-19]

DreadPirateMoyer You tried all the adaptor plates and none work with the HK45C? If so that’s disappointing, but very good to know. Thanks

[Gio]

I used to have and carry a hk45c when they first came out. It blows my mind that H&K won’t/didn’t cut a rail slot further out toward the muzzle. They definitely have room on the gun to do that.

[spinmove_]

I used to have and carry a hk45c when they first came out. It blows my mind that H&K won’t/didn’t cut a rail slot further out toward the muzzle. They definitely have room on the gun to do that.

Would it be that difficult to have a skilled plastic surgeon do it?


Sent from mah smertfone using tapathingy

[orionz06]

Would it be that difficult to have a skilled plastic surgeon do it?

I'd assume not, there are folks who cut rails and slots into G26's.

[Gio]

So what's the word on Safariland holster fit with the TLR7 and 8 for those who have it? Will it fit/work in an ALS setup for an X300/TLR-1?

[dontshakepandas]

Anybody got their hands on one of these yet?

I'd love to know how it compares to the XC1-B.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

[justcor]

Size large hands here. I cannot reach the switch without major difficulty. Very disappointed with the switchology its just to far away.

[Mirolynmonbro]

Some posts on arfcom reported the TLR7 flickering when firing and releasing the slide stop when dry firing. Somebody posted this:

The flicker issue on the TLR-7/8 is actually a design feature.

He explained - these lights have what's called "anti-bounce software". When the light detects battery bounce, it powers down the light for 4 milliseconds to prevent it from changing modes or turning off completely.

He said that he understands the flicker causes alarm to people, so they're developing a software update for the lights to eliminate the flicker while still allowing the "anti-bounce software" to function as it needs to.

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

[dontshakepandas]

Some posts on arfcom reported the TLR7 flickering when firing and releasing the slide stop when dry firing. Somebody posted this:

The flicker issue on the TLR-7/8 is actually a design feature.

He explained - these lights have what's called "anti-bounce software". When the light detects battery bounce, it powers down the light for 4 milliseconds to prevent it from changing modes or turning off completely.

He said that he understands the flicker causes alarm to people, so they're developing a software update for the lights to eliminate the flicker while still allowing the "anti-bounce software" to function as it needs to.

Sent from my Pixel 2 using TapatalkHmm... I'm already not a fan of the switches so that might rule this one out for me.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

[Screwball]

Anybody got their hands on one of these yet?

Mine should be here Friday...

[1Rangemaster]

Hello, folks; I have actually had a TLR-7 mounted to a gen5G17 for several weeks. It has ~2000+ rounds through the weapon/WML system-no real issues. The system was supported by Safariland ALS duty and carry holsters. I’m no Mr. White, but do have a “Dark Pin” from his program as well as trips to GUNSITE, Rogers and Thunder Ranch.
The light was utilized in one home alarm situation and performed well in searching. The “switchology” is acceptable; I’d prefer a grip switch a la Surefire, but one is not available as I understand now.
500 lumens plenty for daily carry for this retired Deputy. Size is ver convenient. I truthfully did not note the “flicker” in use, and don’t consider it an issue.
I’m a bit of a flashlight nerd, carry daily a Surefire hand held (currently “Tactician”) and this WML for the last two months. Before that, an Inforce APLc, which I found acceptable also.
Bottom line, one has to train with lights also. One suggestion I have is to remove the slide, and work the light in your environments. And ALWAYS have a hand held; Clint Smith:”One is none, and two is one”.
Hope this is of assistance

[Screwball]

Mine should be here Friday...

Got it...

Very well made, at least just looking at it out of the box. I am kind of in the air with the switch... kind of like it, but took a little bit to figure out the strobe sequence. Strobe is like the TLR-1, but the switch seems to have a little play in it. If I want to turn it on, it works, but considering I thought the strobe unlock required to turn on/off, found you can outrun the switch. I do like the momentary/constant setup, as well as being able to either go in or forward to activate.

The lock screw isn’t finger tighten anymore, where the old one has the raised indents that gets it down pretty good. Just using my fingers on this allowed some play in the light. A nickel fits the slot perfectly (thank you Medtronic for having me carry a nickel around for the past four years to change batteries in my insulin pump... got me ready for the TLR-7 [emoji41]), in case you need to mess with it.

Like the lockout, but doubt I’ll ever use it. Rather the light just be on. Output is very nice, especially when compared to what I ran before this. The battery change is a good feature, especially that you don’t have to dismount the light. Probably good for those going with the TLR-8 (laser).

Some comparison pictures, with my 30S.

https://i.imgur.com/hKI3W3N.jpg

I compared the old light (TLR-3) to the new one... both pictures put the end of the frame at the 3” mark. This was my original reason for looking at the XC1, and why I picked this up (price and output put it above the Surefire).

https://i.imgur.com/sLHNWhI.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/cS53Zfe.jpg

And a few other angles, if anyone is interested.

https://i.imgur.com/vD2t8MV.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/7K2aaeJ.jpg

Can’t wait to try this out a little better, as well as get another shell for my White Hat holster to fit it. I am very optimistic for it working out, but time really will be the deciding factor.

[Screwball]

Also, mine came with two E-clips in the bag, but not one installed.

Might want to check that, if you buy one. [emoji6]

[BJV]

I bought a TLR-7 to try and received it recently. I was hoping I could make it work on a PX4 Compact, but it is definitely a no-go in its current form. It cannot be mounted to the rail of a PX4 Compact.

So, I put it on a Gen3 Glock 19 and tried it out. As others have said, I think the execution of the light itself is excellent. It's compact, low profile, provides an appreciable amount of light, uses a CR123 battery, and seems durable. Being able to change the battery from the front (without removing the light from the gun) is also good.

However, comma, I think the ergonomics of the switch are poor. I have large hands (size L and sometimes XL gloves, typically), and I was struggling to reach the switch with my thumb using a two-handed grip, and especially with my index finger using a one-handed grip. Also, the "nub" on the switch was hard for me to manipulate, so I wasn't able to activate the light in a consistent manner. In short, I felt like I was fighting the switch. It's not a light I will use or would recommend to others unless the switch is changed, and that's disappointing considering everything else about the light is great.

[jwperry]

How close in size is the TLR-7 to the APL-C? In my first live fire playing with my APL-C it died. I'd like to switch to a CR123 light if possible to use the same holster I had made for the APL-C(if possible).

[orionz06]

How close in size is the TLR-7 to the APL-C? In my first live fire playing with my APL-C it died. I'd like to switch to a CR123 light if possible to use the same holster I had made for the APL-C(if possible).

That's very unlikely to work, more so the shapes being different enough may allow for flex that will kill the holster in the long run.

[Screwball]

Unhappy with the light... but likely will be taken care of.

https://youtu.be/vlp9ayci9z0

Flickers on dropping the slide, as well as when dry-firing.

On AR15.com, a member contacted Streamlight. Said it is “anti-bounce software,” which powers the light off when a bounce is detected (for 4 milliseconds). Done to prevent the light from changing modes/shutting down.

The Streamlight representative said he is aware of the concern, and they are rolling out a software update around 3/22 to fix it (anti-bounce will still be there, just won’t flicker). The rep offered to bring the member’s lights back for the update.

I’m contacting Streamlight, sending that video link, and playing dumb. I will keep it in the back of my head for the interaction with C/S, but won’t expect anything shy of it being resolved. I spend $115 for the light, and $100+ on holsters for my Glock/TLR-7. Not going to keep a light that does that. Don’t get me wrong, it isn’t likely something that is going to be noticed when firing, but I don’t want it occurring.

[jwperry]

That's very unlikely to work, more so the shapes being different enough may allow for flex that will kill the holster in the long run.

Darn.
Thanks for the info.

[BK14]

Any updates to usage on these?? What appendix holsters have people tried with this light?

[Screwball]

Any updates to usage on these?? What appendix holsters have people tried with this light?

Streamlight updated the software... sent me a new bulb assembly. New lights should be updated, so figure ones built after 3/30. Dry-fire flicker is gone... but flicker on releasing the slide is still there. Believe it is the actual feature, as the momentum is likely causing the battery to jump.

As far as holsters, ordered two Ares Tactical, and a new Kydex for my White Hat Holster. Still waiting on them... probably will be here around the end of the month.

[Up1911Fan]

Any updates on these?

[Screwball]

Any updates on these?

I got my holsters for it... no issues with the light coming on in either White Hat (MaxClip) or Ares Tactical (Bodyguard V2 and Shoulder Holster).

Had a few life things come up this past month, so really haven’t tested the light past that. Hopefully will get some range time in the next few weeks.

[GJM]

Just got a TLR-8, and so far so good. Prefer it to the XC2, because it seems to mount better, and the switches are less likely to be on or off when you prefer the opposite.

[RJ]

Just got a TLR-8, and so far so good. Prefer it to the XC2, because it seems to mount better, and the switches are less likely to be on or off when you prefer the opposite.

GJM - How fo you feel about the switch activation, as say vs the one on the TLR-1?

I’m thinking of adding a -7 or -8 on my EDC G-19.5, in an RCS Perun (when released). I know I need a low light course. I currently carry a Streamlight handheld.

[GJM]

GJM - How fo you feel about the switch activation, as say vs the one on the TLR-1?

I’m thinking of adding a -7 or -8 on my EDC G-19.5, in an RCS Perun (when released). I know I need a low light course. I currently carry a Streamlight handheld.

I understand people prefer the TLR-1 switching. I want a compact light/laser and that boils down to the Surefire XC-2 or TLR-8. I prefer the TLR-8 for the reasons I said above.

[Trukinjp13]

Sorry if I missed this. But does anyone know if a tlr7 will fit a p2ksk? I recently acquired one and would like to find a good compact light for her.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Screwball]

All it says on the crappy key paper that Streamlight put out is that the 1913-1 fits the VP9 and the 1913-2 fits the P30...

Don’t remember which forum it was (this one or another), but thought I saw someone printing a key for an HK pistol. For the life of me, can’t remember what model it was... maybe the 45C?

If I see it again, will post a link.

[Pit]

https://pistol-forum.com/showthread.php?31415-HK45C-Streamlight-TLR-7(8)-Custom-Key

I got this light after talking with Streamlight folks and being assured it will fit my old Wilson Combat Compact rail. Of course, It does not. Maybe this will be a solution.

I asked Streamlight if the key to the TLR-3 that does work with this rail will fit in the -7. I was told they would get back with me. That was over 3 weeks ago. Not impressed with their CS to date.

JW

[Screwball]

I asked Streamlight if the key to the TLR-3 that does work with this rail will fit in the -7. I was told they would get back with me. That was over 3 weeks ago. Not impressed with their CS to date.

I’ll compare the keys when I get home tonight... but what to say no. Think they are pretty different.

[Screwball]

Just from a quick comparison... it may work. Or it will just be very close. There is a tab that the keys interact with. Looks similar, but the hole spacing is slightly off (screw for the TLR-7 is also thinner).

What TLR-3 key are you looking to try? I’ll pull them apart after work and see if it fits. Not going to modify the keys, but should be able to give you a heads up on it working out.

[Wynn615]

I tried the TLR 7 with my P2000 the other week with the universal key and it fit.

[Screwball]

No chance for TLR-3 keys to work...

https://i.imgur.com/dk95cfT.jpg

Way too much material on the bottom of the TLR-3 keys. The older design has the cross screw completely inside the key... while the new one just goes over it. There are also two tabs in the new keys, opposed to a solid sled of polymer compared to the old ones.

https://i.imgur.com/FdgrjBO.jpg

TLR-7 with its key (UNIV-1, which I use with my Glock 30S.

https://i.imgur.com/3KsIeVb.jpg

TLR-7 with a TLR-3 key (believe it was the B key... C is in my TLR-3).

https://i.imgur.com/A1K9coZ.jpg

And a shot from the rear of both lights with their keys in. Can see how much higher the rails are in relation to the key/cross screw on the TLR-3.

I don’t think you could even modify a key to work. Probably would be a better route to talk to the guy who printed the other HK keys for the TLR-7/8, and see if he can help you get something. Even going from scratch is probably more effective that trying to make it work.

[Pit]

No chance for TLR-3 keys to work...

https://i.imgur.com/dk95cfT.jpg

Way too much material on the bottom of the TLR-3 keys. The older design has the cross screw completely inside the key... while the new one just goes over it. There are also two tabs in the new keys, opposed to a solid sled of polymer compared to the old ones.

https://i.imgur.com/FdgrjBO.jpg

TLR-7 with its key (UNIV-1, which I use with my Glock 30S.

https://i.imgur.com/3KsIeVb.jpg

TLR-7 with a TLR-3 key (believe it was the B key... C is in my TLR-3).

https://i.imgur.com/A1K9coZ.jpg

And a shot from the rear of both lights with their keys in. Can see how much higher the rails are in relation to the key/cross screw on the TLR-3.

I don’t think you could even modify a key to work. Probably would be a better route to talk to the guy who printed the other HK keys for the TLR-7/8, and see if he can help you get something. Even going from scratch is probably more effective that trying to make it work.

Thank you. That was significantly more information and to the point than my dealings with Streamlight. I'm in contact with Matt (H&K Custom Key thread) at this time. Hope to have a resolution. I have the light mounted on my S&W M&P40 M2.0 Compact at this time. I have some difficulty reaching the switch with my support hand. Need to work with it a bit more. Like the size, weight and output. Seems well made too.

JW

[Trukinjp13]

I tried the TLR 7 with my P2000 the other week with the universal key and it fit.

Any way for a pic? I am curious if one will work with the p2ksk.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Wynn615]

Should be able to grab a pic tonight

[mfrey]

I hope he doesn't mind me sharing but here's what Pit and I worked out for his configuration.

https://s33.postimg.cc/6amclz39r/Adams_Key.1000.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

As long as the rear face of the picatinny-spec rail slot is greater than 0.605" from the trigger guard, I can design a key to work.

[Pit]

I hope he doesn't mind me sharing but here's what Pit and I worked out for his configuration.

https://s33.postimg.cc/6amclz39r/Adams_Key.1000.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

As long as the rear face of the picatinny-spec rail slot is greater than 0.605" from the trigger guard, I can design a key to work.

No problem Matt. I was going to post this anyway.

JW

[Screwball]

I hope he doesn't mind me sharing but here's what Pit and I worked out for his configuration.

https://s33.postimg.cc/6amclz39r/Adams_Key.1000.jpg

As long as the rear face of the picatinny-spec rail slot is greater than 0.605" from the trigger guard, I can design a key to work.

Question... any way I could purchase a copy of any new key designs you come up with? I’m planning on sticking with the TLR-7 from here on out, and rather get all available keys for it. Never know what new pistol I get hooked on. [emoji6]

[mfrey]

Question... any way I could purchase a copy of any new key designs you come up with? I’m planning on sticking with the TLR-7 from here on out, and rather get all available keys for it. Never know what new pistol I get hooked on. [emoji6]

Sure. No problem. I’ll shoot you a PM tomorrow.

[Wynn615]

Here is the TLR-7 on the P2000

27005

[Nocturnalis Discipulo]

Does anyone know if you can use RCR123’s or 16340’s with these lights? Or really any rechargeable?

[EzGoingKev]

I emailed them and this was their response -

"Thank you for your inquiry. Streamlight does not support the use of batteries other than those specifically listed in the instructions. Normally the lamps and current regulators are designed for a specific type of battery, and using other batteries often results in poor performance, either low output or extremely short lamp life, depending on the battery types involved."

[littlejerry]

So is there an ALS or GLS holster that fits this thing yet? I'm thinking of getting a light for my 19 but want a real retention holster. If nothing exists maybe I'm better off with a TLR1

[El Cid]

So is there an ALS or GLS holster that fits this thing yet? I'm thinking of getting a light for my 19 but want a real retention holster. If nothing exists maybe I'm better off with a TLR1

Fits just fine in my ALS that is for the TLR-1/X300.

[Gio]

Fits just fine in my ALS that is for the TLR-1/X300.

Do you think there is enough clearance in that holster for a TLR8 or just the 7?

[El Cid]

Do you think there is enough clearance in that holster for a TLR8 or just the 7?

I don’t have an 8 to try but I’m betting it won’t work. There is plenty of room once the gun is in the holster but where the seams come together it looks too close.

https://i.imgur.com/liu3DSk_d.jpg?maxwidth=640&shape=thumb&fidelity=medium

https://i.imgur.com/uSPxGbp_d.jpg?maxwidth=640&shape=thumb&fidelity=medium

https://i.imgur.com/H6Fos2g_d.jpg?maxwidth=640&shape=thumb&fidelity=medium

https://i.imgur.com/d2gnysb_d.jpg?maxwidth=640&shape=thumb&fidelity=medium

[Erick Gelhaus]

Any idea if this would work with a gen one M&P Compact? The older one with only two rail slots on the frame?

[Screwball]

Any idea if this would work with a gen one M&P Compact? The older one with only two rail slots on the frame?

I can check sometime today...

[Screwball]

The 1913-4 key gets it close on the older M&P Compact (3.5” barrel; .40/.357 held 10 and the 9mm held 12)... but the trigger guard cants the light up. If the tab for the slot was a little more to the rear (putting that hole for the cross-screw under the forward slot), would be golden.

That was for just OEM keys...

[Erick Gelhaus]

I can check sometime today...

Thank you.

[Trukinjp13]

How are these holding up? I am looking into picking up a compact light for my edc. I like the price point and switching seems decent. But am wondering how they have been reliability wise and how folks are feeling vs the xc1-b?

[GJM]

Sorry for the necro post, but wanted to share something I have experienced on multiple units. I really like the TLR-7A, and have been carrying one regularly for a while now. When shooting pistols with the light mounted, I notice that bezel moves on its own through some combination of shooting and/or EDC, and at some point of bezel movement the light won’t come on. Tighten the bezel and everything works as expected. So, keep an eye on your bezel, to make sure it is tight.

[TC215]

Sorry for the necro post, but wanted to share something I have experienced on multiple units. I really like the TLR-7A, and have been carrying one regularly for a while now. When shooting pistols with the light mounted, I notice that bezel moves on its own through some combination of shooting and/or EDC, and at some point of bezel movement the light won’t come on. Tighten the bezel and everything works as expected. So, keep an eye on your bezel, to make sure it is tight.

I see it every time we qual at night (and occasionally while working).

[Clusterfrack]

That sucks. I am deeply invested in the TLR-7/8. Maybe Vibratite can help?

[Navin Johnson]

Seems like any accessory should be checked on a regular basis along with maintenance etc. including lights, lasers, dots

[jnc36rcpd]

I think we should consider that Streamlight pistol-mounted lights are intended to get one through the gunfight, not qualification courses or advanced bang-bang school. Granted, I'd be frosted if my light fell off (as it did in a D platoon course) in the midst of the North Hollywood shootout, but that is unlikely yo occur in the typical dust-up.

Lights unscrewing or bezels losening are not positive design features of Streamlight, but routine mounting and/or inspection can reduce real world problems for law enforcement and armed citizens. YMMV in military settings.

[JCN]

That sucks. I am deeply invested in the TLR-7/8. Maybe Vibratite can help?

Another use for E6000 (https://amzn.to/3B3BEN3)?

I’ve been using it lately on other things that vibrate loose like pic rail thumb screws and the like with good results.

[1Rangemaster]

Seems like any accessory should be checked on a regular basis along with maintenance etc. including lights, lasers, dots

“This is the way.” As GJM noted above, there is some combination causing rotation/disconnection of the bezel. I just looked at my SL 7sub mounted on todays carry piece and note there is a groove on the bezel which lines up the connection. A little paint “witness mark” could be helpful here; I do that with the dot screws, etc.(thanks to SoCalDep).
I haven’t had an issue with the TLR8G, but doesn’t mean it can’t happen.
Cooper noted a long time ago that a handgun could be a very personal implement, and aficionados paid attention to their personal gear. So, handgun, check; sights and lights, check; ammo load out, check, etc.

Edit to add: some sort of thread locker (?)

[JCN]

Seems like any accessory should be checked on a regular basis along with maintenance etc. including lights, lasers, dots

I think doing something that decreases the frequency and likelihood of failure is always a good idea. Less maintenance, less risk of error and failure.

Usually if a failure point is identified, I don’t like to let it go too far before trying to come up with a fix.

You know, the “fool me once, shame on you… fool me twice, shame on me.”

On vibration related loosening, there are some applications that torque alone isn’t going to solve the problem.

Similar to some optic mounting plates with high volume.

Something that gums up threads just a little without being a PITA is perfect.

Potential fixes that would prevent the bezel from needing as close attention:

1. Remove bezel and sparingly toothpick apply Vibratite or blue loctite, let dry and then reinstall.
2. Remove bezel and put a little E6000 (like rubber cement) at the threads or joints and reinstall.
3. Stick a black paster on the joint.
4. Toothpick dab nail polish on the joint like a seal on a Victorian letter.

[Chuck Whitlock]

That sucks. I am deeply invested in the TLR-7/8. Maybe Vibratite can help?

A dab or two of clear nail polish in the threads ought to do the trick. I doubt there is a need to slather it on. Witness marks are a good idea, too.

[Clark Jackson]

Sorry for the necro post, but wanted to share something I have experienced on multiple units. I really like the TLR-7A, and have been carrying one regularly for a while now. When shooting pistols with the light mounted, I notice that bezel moves on its own through some combination of shooting and/or EDC, and at some point of bezel movement the light won’t come on. Tighten the bezel and everything works as expected. So, keep an eye on your bezel, to make sure it is tight.

+1 on the TLR-7A light turning off under recoil via the "lock out" function.

Recently watched it happen to a friend who was shooting a G19/TLR-7A combo from an ALS holster; no friction on the TLR-7A via concealment kydex holster.

My buddy contacted Streamlight and was told this was not supposed to happen and asked him to send it back. Streamlight replaced the bezel and returned the light which appears to be in working order.

My buddy replaced the TLR-7A with a TLR1-HL but is using the TLR-7A in his training (witness marked the bezel) to see if he can replicate the problem.

After seeing this I brought the issue up at a local match and heard some similar stories from both civilians carriers and armed professionals. It appears this issue may be more widespread than Streamlight wants to admit. Given this light is currently being provided as standard issue to several large federal law enforcement agencies, I suspect this will become a more pressing issue for Streamlight in the near future.

Until Streamlight publicly addresses/fixes the issue I'm a hard no on the TLR-7A. Conceptually, a great piece of kit but execution was sub-par.

[GJM]

https://youtu.be/wjm3MVXVekw

[Up1911Fan]

https://youtu.be/wjm3MVXVekw

He's right, it's not. I'm a huge fan of the 7 and Sub for a plainclothes/EDC light. I can't conceal an X300, but I wouldn't use the 7 as a uniformed duty light either. Different tools for different applications.

[WobblyPossum]

He's right, it's not. I'm a huge fan of the 7 and Sub for a plainclothes/EDC light. I can't conceal an X300, but I wouldn't use the 7 as a uniformed duty light either. Different tools for different applications.

Agreed. I use one in my overt, Safariland rig but my job is 95% plain clothes, concealed carry. I also can’t conceal a gun with a TLR-1 or X300 sized light. I can conceal one with a TLR-7 on it. For the 5% of my job that I wear a duty belt with an exposed gun on my hip, I just take the same gun I was carrying concealed and move it into another holster. If your job is primarily overt with an exposed gun on your hip, the concealment benefits of the TLR-7 don’t give you any real additional capability but the light producing benefits of an X300 do.

[Up1911Fan]

Agreed. I use one in my overt, Safariland rig but my job is 95% plain clothes, concealed carry. I also can’t conceal a gun with a TLR-1 or X300 sized light. I can conceal one with a TLR-7 on it. For the 5% of my job that I wear a duty belt with an exposed gun on my hip, I just take the same gun I was carrying concealed and move it into another holster. If your job is primarily overt with an exposed gun on your hip, the concealment benefits of the TLR-7 don’t give you any real additional capability but the light producing benefits of an X300 do.
This. 100%.

[Navin Johnson]

https://youtu.be/wjm3MVXVekw

Thanks for posting

This is a shitty Clickbait article implying quality

Not that long ago that was state of the art lighting output

It’s a whole fuck ton better than no light at all on a duty gun

Somebody needs attention

A Popo friend of mine has explained what it’s like to get an administrator (capitan) to sign off……. A TLR7 might be a huge victory.

[dontshakepandas]

Thanks for posting

This is a shitty Clickbait article implying quality

Not that long ago that was state of the art lighting output

It’s a whole fuck ton better than no light at all on a duty gun

Somebody needs attention

A Popo friend of mine has explained what it’s like to get an administrator (capitan) to sign off……. A TLR7 might be a huge victory.

This whole post was a bad take.

Being state of the art in the past doesn’t make it a good option now. Phones and computers from “not that long ago” are all but obsolete now and you would absolutely be at a disadvantage using it.

He wasn’t saying that the TLR7 was not a good light or was poor quality, he said it isn’t a good light for duty use, which is absolutely true. He also shows different lighting conditions where it fails to provide adequate lighting compared to the X300T.

There is no reason to choose a TLR7 over an X300 if you don’t have to conceal it. The TLR7 design makes performance sacrifices in order to get the smaller concealable form factor, and if size isn’t the limiting factor there is no reason to give up the performance. For situations where you do need to conceal, it is still a good option and he said he does have one that he uses when he needs deep concealment.

I’m sure Aaron would agree that using the TLR7 is better than nothing if it is all you can get approved, but that wasn’t the intent of the video. He would also probably be willing to help get other options approved if officers were to reach out to him.

[stomridertx]

This whole post was a bad take.

Being state of the art in the past doesn’t make it a good option now. Phones and computers from “not that long ago” are all but obsolete now and you would absolutely be at a disadvantage using it.

He wasn’t saying that the TLR7 was not a good light or was poor quality, he said it isn’t a good light for duty use, which is absolutely true. He also shows different lighting conditions where it fails to provide adequate lighting compared to the X300T.

There is no reason to choose a TLR7 over an X300 if you don’t have to conceal it. The TLR7 design makes performance sacrifices in order to get the smaller concealable form factor, and if size isn’t the limiting factor there is no reason to give up the performance. For situations where you do need to conceal, it is still a good option and he said he does have one that he uses when he needs deep concealment.

I’m sure Aaron would agree that using the TLR7 is better than nothing if it is all you can get approved, but that wasn’t the intent of the video. He would also probably be willing to help get other options approved if officers were to reach out to him.

I agree with this wholeheartedly, and that's coming from someone who standardized on the TLR-7A. I'm no longer a LEO and in my life, the TLR-7A serves my purposes and having it on all my Glocks allows me to share my T-Series holsters and makes all of them more concealable as CCW options. If I still carried a duty gun every day, I would choose the TLR-1 HL or X300 all day long and twice on Sunday. Sage Dynamics is the antithesis of click-bait, everything he puts out is information driven and provides useful data in making decisions on lighting and optics. I don't always agree, but I respect the information given nonetheless. The candela discussion is especially important. For instance, while I have a TLR-7A on my carry G19.5, I also pocket carry a Streamlight Protac 2LX Handheld. Both lights have 500 lumen output, but the 2LX greatly outperforms the TLR-7A because of the higher candela. We are probably getting close to the limit of what they can do with this size form factor and it may be a long time before there is a significant jump in performance from where we are now.

[Utm]

Thanks for posting

This is a shitty Clickbait article implying quality

Not that long ago that was state of the art lighting output

It’s a whole fuck ton better than no light at all on a duty gun

Somebody needs attention

A Popo friend of mine has explained what it’s like to get an administrator (capitan) to sign off……. A TLR7 might be a huge victory.
It's still a very sub par duty wml. Admin needs to do better and go train trying to PID a dude at 30 yards with a tlr7a vs a full sized wml.

[DpdG]

On the lighting quality front I’m in agreement with Cowen, but there is one factor he doesn’t discuss that might lead to forcing the -7A (or -9) into duty use- the gap around the trigger guard with most duty holsters designed for the x300/-1HL. Although the light is objectively less suited for patrol/overt use, the weapon system is less susceptible to foreign object UDs.

[Navin Johnson]

It's still a very sub par duty wml. Admin needs to do better and go train trying to PID a dude at 30 yards with a tlr7a vs a full sized wml.

Or another way of saying it is sage dynamics has an uncanny ability to point out the painfully obvious.

[Utm]

Or another way of saying it is sage dynamics has an uncanny ability to point out the painfully obvious.
Given the amount of departments making it the standard issued wml, it's not so obvious to all

[Exiledviking]

Well, if you're used to the output of a TLR-1HL, the TLR-7 looks pretty weak. When I got my first TLR-7 I thought there was something wrong with it due to the lack of candela. I've been using TLR-1HLs for several years and apparently gotten spoiled by the candela of the TLR-1HL.

[Casey]

Or another way of saying it is sage dynamics has an uncanny ability to point out the painfully obvious.
As others have stated, perhaps not so obvious to those who haven't had quality low light training. As with pretty much every Cowan video I've ever seen, he provides good information in an articulate manner and presents useful evidence to back his position. Saying "TLR-7 bad!" isn't equivalent to saying "The TLR-7 isn't appropriate for duty use for these reasons and here are multiple scenarios in mixed lighting where the TLR-7 fails to provide adequate illumination while an X300 Turbo does." You may not like the way he presents information, but it seems like most of the rest of us do appreciate his insights.

When the Florida Highway Patrol moved on from their .45 GAP Glocks to issuing the G45, unfortunately they also decided to ditch their X300s in favor of TLR-7s. It does make for a shorter length holster which I'm guessing aids in comfort while seated in patrol cars, but talk about a stupid move for an agency whose personnel frequently work in poor lighting conditions and have to deal with window tinting in a huge percentage of their traffic stops.

[GearFondler]

The Cloud Defense WML that was teased before it was indefinitely delayed would have solved most issues if it was up to snuff.
It was much shorter with one being G17-flush and the other barely longer. Add in the single cell design to keep everything pistol-width thin and it would have been a game changer.
Designing a reliable switch seems to be where they were having trouble and since other companies have solved that problem I don't see why CD or someone else can't produce a high candela WML like this one.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230517/1619e8e7c1b86b2dff76a4b227e70348.jpg

[Utm]

The Cloud Defense WML that was teased before it was indefinitely delayed would have solved most issues if it was up to snuff.
It was much shorter with one being G17-flush and the other barely longer. Add in the single cell design to keep everything pistol-width thin and it would have been a game changer.
Designing a reliable switch seems to be where they were having trouble and since other companies have solved that problem I don't see why CD or someone else can't produce a high candela WML like this one.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230517/1619e8e7c1b86b2dff76a4b227e70348.jpg
I learned my lesson with modlite pl350. I would wait at minimum a year before purchasing a wml that's new to the market

[GearFondler]

I learned my lesson with modlite pl350. I would wait at minimum a year before purchasing a wml that's new to the marketI don't disagree with you... My point is that technology has advanced to the point that a duty-grade, smallish-footprint, high-lumen, high-candela WML should be possible to produce.

[Bergeron]

It does seem that the science and engineering could produce a “concealment-sized” form factor with “duty-grade” light output, but it was enough of a pain to get into quality holsters with a G34/comped 19 slide and TLR-8AG light, that unless a light manufacturer can bring along the holster market, the risk of a concealable light without holster support seems substantial.

I’d love to be proven wrong, and I do like the TLR switchology, but my guess is that there will only ever be just a general couple of form factors that we’ll all be able to get holsters for. If I had gone G19 or G17, and stayed with the non-laser TLR-7/8, there were plenty holsters. Go to a KKM comp and the laser version of the light, and it was a whole different story.