Negative effects of Fireclean?

[ASH556]

So I'm aware of all the drama surrounding Fireclean and it being Canola oil, etc, but honestly I've had good luck with it on Glocks, AR's, and Benelli's. I'm about out and inclined to just refill my bottle with Crisco oil. Have any of you experienced negative effects from Fireclean? Any reason I shouldn't do this?

[tcba_joe]

I had a rifle I used fireclean on. Was great until it sat in a safe for a few months. I don't really clean guns, but there wasn't a ton of rounds on it since the fireclean was last used. Then suddenly I had this thick black crystalline crap all over the internals and could barely charge the gun, like it was full of sand.

While I was shooting a lot it did the job well enough, but when I didn't get to shoot regularly it dried out and gummed up. I mentioned this in a LAV FB post and he acted like that was impossible. I don't need a wonder-lube, I need something that will let me actually fire my gun, even if dirty.

[schüler]

I posted this link in another lube topic a while back, found it very interesting: https://primaryandsecondary.com/yes-experience-matters/

[Suvorov]

Other than having random people come up to you on the range and telling you - "you know that's Crisco?"?

[ReverendMeat]

Turned gummy and sticky in a couple handguns after a month or two, induced malfunctions with one of them.

[ASH556]

I had a rifle I used fireclean on. Was great until it sat in a safe for a few months. I don't really clean guns, but there wasn't a ton of rounds on it since the fireclean was last used. Then suddenly I had this thick black crystalline crap all over the internals and could barely charge the gun, like it was full of sand.

While I was shooting a lot it did the job well enough, but when I didn't get to shoot regularly it dried out and gummed up. I mentioned this in a LAV FB post and he acted like that was impossible. I don't need a wonder-lube, I need something that will let me actually fire my gun, even if dirty.


Turned gummy and sticky in a couple handguns after a month or two, induced malfunctions with one of them.
Yikes! Sounds like one of karmapolice 's guns I rebuilt after he'd been using that Frogsplooge garbage. I've got some Slip2k and that's what I'll go back to. Thanks guys!

[Sigfan26]

I had a rifle I used fireclean on. Was great until it sat in a safe for a few months. I don't really clean guns, but there wasn't a ton of rounds on it since the fireclean was last used. Then suddenly I had this thick black crystalline crap all over the internals and could barely charge the gun, like it was full of sand.

While I was shooting a lot it did the job well enough, but when I didn't get to shoot regularly it dried out and gummed up. I mentioned this in a LAV FB post and he acted like that was impossible. I don't need a wonder-lube, I need something that will let me actually fire my gun, even if dirty.


Turned gummy and sticky in a couple handguns after a month or two, induced malfunctions with one of them.

This sounds like what I saw from a guy that (and no, I'm not joking. This actually happened, and it looked exactly as described) used PAM Cooking Spray on his pistol at the suggestion of his firearms "instructor" to lubricate.

[olstyn]

Admittedly I got it for free when the maker used a karma thread on here to give out samples to several members, but I've been REALLY impressed with Liberty Lubricants CLP. Every time I think it's been a long time since I last lubed one of my guns and field strip it to check, there's still lube in there doing its job, whether it's my carry gun that barely gets shot and has more to fear from dust than mechanical wear or my USPSA gun that sees thousands of rounds/year and barely ever gets cleaned. When that bottle runs out, which given how long each application lasts, will take a long time, I'll be buying more.

[Peally]

There's great cheap shit like Slip2000 out there on retail hardware store shelves. Why anyone would bother with anything else baffles me.

[txdpd]

So I'm aware of all the drama surrounding Fireclean and it being Canola oil, etc, but honestly I've had good luck with it on Glocks, AR's, and Benelli's. I'm about out and inclined to just refill my bottle with Crisco oil. Have any of you experienced negative effects from Fireclean? Any reason I shouldn't do this?

Carpal Tunnel Syndrome. I keep typing really long responses about snake oil and deleting them, and then rewriting the same response and deleting it.

I read on crossfit that canola oil has a lot of oxidative omega 6 fatty acids and that something with a better balance of omega 3's would be better.

[JRCHolsters]

Admittedly I got it for free when the maker used a karma thread on here to give out samples to several members, but I've been REALLY impressed with Liberty Lubricants CLP. Every time I think it's been a long time since I last lubed one of my guns and field strip it to check, there's still lube in there doing its job, whether it's my carry gun that barely gets shot and has more to fear from dust than mechanical wear or my USPSA gun that sees thousands of rounds/year and barely ever gets cleaned. When that bottle runs out, which given how long each application lasts, will take a long time, I'll be buying more.Glad to hear you are liking the Liberty Gun Lube I sent you. It is becoming very popular amongst USPSA and Multigun shooters out here in the super hot desert areas. It really shines come winter with it's -85F freezing point. On the FireClean issue, Vegetable oil may be the "carrier" but the "performance/additive package" is what makes it have what ever properties that are inherent to it. We use a synthetic base. Different strokes kind of things. Some carriers have better(different) advantages over others. Lot's of info out there on this. They kind of did get a bum rap on the canola oil thing, as anyone "exposing" this, conveniently did not test for the additive package(or if they did, didn't mention it)

[Wake27]

One of the members on M4C did a fairly thorough test a while ago that kind of debunked the crisco bullshit, it's worth checking out. I love FireClean, I've been using it for years and it's always been great. I liked Slip but FC stays put better and won't dry out nearly as fast. And I have to wonder about the claims that it turns to paste. Half of my firearms are in at my parents house on the mainland. I put away several dirty guns to include my Glock and BCM from October 2014 to June 2016. When I came back, they still had some lube residue and weren't gummed up at all - super smooth just like normal. I did the same thing from July 2016 to this past weekend, with the same result. They were inside so in a climate controlled environment, but just in a basic cabinet without any specific humidity control. I also rotate between several bottles so I doubt that I just got a good batch or something. I regularly put over 500 rounds between lube sessions, have gone close to 1k I believe but I've never really attempted to test it.


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[overton]

FC gunks up terribly. Was hard to get out of a 10/22

[LittleLebowski]

For the sake of reference:
https://pistol-forum.com/showthread.php?17197-Interesting-article-on-FireClean-weapons-oil

[RJ]

Ah yes, Fireclean,

I fell for it a couple years ago.

I can't find my summary post, but if memory serves I had lubed my M&P full size with FC before putting it in the safe for a few months to shoot my VP9. When I pulled the M&P out to function test it before selling it, it was noticeably harder to rack due to gummed up residue. I cleaned it all out and relubed with what I ended up using, Slip2000 EWL.

I tend to agree that if you shoot often, FC will probably work well (of course I have come to realize about ANYTHING will work, short term). Long term, I dunno,

FC management is still a bunch of snapperheads, though. :)

[LittleLebowski]

I have come to realize about ANYTHING will work, short term

[Irelander]

Don't forget:
https://pistol-forum.com/showthread.php?25607-The-final-phase

I think I'll be blasting all the FC out of my EDC and replace it with Mobil1.

[Mike C]

I really like the Slip2000 but it does dry out quickly when running suppressed supers out of my .300 BLK. LittleLebowski, are you still running the suppressed .300 BLK? Does Lucas stay put or does it dry out like Slip?

[LittleLebowski]

I really like the Slip2000 but it does dry out quickly when running suppressed supers out of my .300 BLK. LittleLebowski, are you still running the suppressed .300 BLK? Does Lucas stay put or does it dry out like Slip?

Definitely does not dry out fast.

[Mike C]

Definitely does not dry out fast.

Thanks man, I'll pick some up today.

[schüler]

I really like the Slip2000 but it does dry out quickly when running suppressed supers out of my .300 BLK. LittleLebowski, are you still running the suppressed .300 BLK? Does Lucas stay put or does it dry out like Slip?
Regular S2k, EWL or ?

By dries out you do you mean leaves no lubricity? At the point of dry out does it cause malfunctions or feel like there's no lube/sluggish?

-Curious in Austin

[Mike C]

Schuler I have been using Slip2000 EWL. It works great for me unsuppressed but when suppressed the bulk of the lube gets displaced, what doesn’t get displaced seems to feel very thin and slightly gritty from the carbon. This happens around the 50 round mark. At 250-300 things feel sluggish.

The gun still runs just fine, though the action feels less smooth when cycling the bcg with the charging handle. The action just feels different is all I can say. No malfunctions and I believe the lubrication is working. I typically just add more lube and everything feels normal again around that 250-300 mark.

I would like to find a solution that offers corrosion protection and lubricity without having to feel the need to reapply lube. I think slip2000 is great stuff just looking for something a little different.

[MSparks909]

I still like and use FireCLEAN from time to time (mostly on my Beretta shotguns as it keeps the piston and magazine tube pretty much carbon free). Haven't had any of the gunking up issues though I'm well aware of them. I use the Lucas Extreme Duty gun oil on all of my handguns and on my AKs & bolt guns. That stuff is the bomb. Lasts a long time and stays where I put it. The small dropper bottle lasts FOREVER! I've been using ALG Go Juice on my ARs. Works well. Having *any* lube is more important than what the actual brand is. Lubed guns work better than dry guns.

[hufnagel]

Lubed guns work better than dry guns.

Swear on a stack of bibles, I've met at least 2 people who thought their guns were supposed to squeak, and had no idea what lube was.
I'm no fan of glocks, but that's just cruel. I wouldn't do that to a Hi Point.

[LittleLebowski]

Don't forget:
https://pistol-forum.com/showthread.php?25607-The-final-phase

I think I'll be blasting all the FC out of my EDC and replace it with Mobil1.

So far, I like the grease on my pistols and oil on my rifles. I am getting ready to really hammer on my Gen5 G17, sans cleaning of course, I will update the G5 thread.

[Hot Sauce]

Let's come at this from a different direction. Have any of you guys switched from one well-reputed lubricant/grease to another lubricant/grease and seen significant (performance?) gains?

My guess here is that as long as you're not using Crisco, it probably doesn't make a significant difference. Most of the weapons systems we use were not designed in the past 10 years, so they were already designed to function well with older lubes in mind. Unless some new wonderlube really does something miles better, I'm gonna probably stick to the same old crap.

[Wake27]

Let's come at this from a different direction. Have any of you guys switched from one well-reputed lubricant/grease to another lubricant/grease and seen significant (performance?) gains?

My guess here is that as long as you're not using Crisco, it probably doesn't make a significant difference. Most of the weapons systems we use were not designed in the past 10 years, so they were already designed to function well with older lubes in mind. Unless some new wonderlube really does something miles better, I'm gonna probably stick to the same old crap.

Yes, Slip to FireClean after I saw that the FC kept the gun lubed through more rounds and over a liger period of time.


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[RichY]

I had a rifle I used fireclean on. Was great until it sat in a safe for a few months. I don't really clean guns, but there wasn't a ton of rounds on it since the fireclean was last used. Then suddenly I had this thick black crystalline crap all over the internals and could barely charge the gun, like it was full of sand.

While I was shooting a lot it did the job well enough, but when I didn't get to shoot regularly it dried out and gummed up. I mentioned this in a LAV FB post and he acted like that was impossible. I don't need a wonder-lube, I need something that will let me actually fire my gun, even if dirty.

Had the same thing happen on several firearms. Paul Howe recommended it, and then withdrew his support for the product due to having the same issues. Not long ago I tossed $120 worth of the stuff.

[Jared]

Let's come at this from a different direction. Have any of you guys switched from one well-reputed lubricant/grease to another lubricant/grease and seen significant (performance?) gains?

My guess here is that as long as you're not using Crisco, it probably doesn't make a significant difference. Most of the weapons systems we use were not designed in the past 10 years, so they were already designed to function well with older lubes in mind. Unless some new wonderlube really does something miles better, I'm gonna probably stick to the same old crap.

I've tried, at different times, Slip 2K EWL, lubriplate, Enos' Slide Glide, Mobil 1, Break free CLP, and probably a couple others I'm failing to remember. Never really did notice enough of a difference for it to be worth worrying about, although I'm done with the greases as they are a bit messy to clean up when it's time to really do a good cleaning.

When it's time to do another lube purchase, I'll probably try the Lucas and the Liberty lubes, but I'll probably also buy another quart or Mobil 1 because I kinda like bringing it to the range to make heads explode.

[tcba_joe]

Had the same thing happen on several firearms. Paul Howe recommended it, and then withdrew his support for the product due to having the same issues. Not long ago I tossed $120 worth of the stuff.
I liked it when I first used it. I was at a job where I could fire a mag or 2 daily and it kept my go to 11.5" SBR going really well. Then I left that job and experienced a significant lack of shooting time (no job for money = no money for ammo) and stuck it in the safe. I pulled it out after a few months and I may as well have sprayed it with spray-on grip tape; the BCG looked like a ZEV refinished Glock.

I was too focused on getting that stuff out of my gun that I didn't bother taking pictures.

Now I use whatever bulk lube I have on hand. Frankly I'm not convinced there's not really any performance gained when using anything other than Mobile 1 or CLP for the most part.

[PensFan]

I never understood why people would use something that's biodegradable to lubricate machine parts. I'm not a fan of CLP's. Always struck me as counter productive for one product to clean and lubricate at the same time. I prefer metal conditioners like Miltec and lubricating oils and grease. If push comes to shove and all I have is CLP it will be Weapon Shield and lube will be Lucas Extreme Duty or Slip EWL.

[Dagga Boy]

Application dependent. When I was maintaining over 300 AK's converted to blank firing guns and carried in a rain soaked environment for a month, FIREClean was a Godsend. It allowed for our "juice" (Kerosene and ATF) to work well on the rapid cleaning and reissue of the guns and the final clean up. Basically, I like it for a carbon build up preventative. For a lube and for any kind of long term storage...run. I had a very expensive custom 1911 basically become unusable till it could be detailed stripped by an armorerer and all the FIREClean removed after it sat in a safe for a year awaiting photography. I now use my old stand by Slip2000 or Liberty that I am so far very impressed with.

[OlongJohnson]

I found Fireclean gave a shotgun a slightly fishy smell after sitting for a few months. Don't want that infecting my whole safe, so I now only use it for areas exposed to gas, where it does seem to help cleanup.

[overton]

I had a rifle I used fireclean on. Was great until it sat in a safe for a few months.
... it dried out and gummed up.

Just came back from shooting a stored 10/22 that was lubed with Fireclean. Or better: not shooting, as the firing pin
and extractor wouldn't move. This stuff gives the word "gummed" a new dimension...

[cornstalker]

I think it may have a shelf life. It worked great for me across a dozen guns and three years when applied as directed. One day it started to stink and turned to sludge, inducing failures to feed in one of my 19x's. My 9mm bore snake stinks so bad I might have to pitch it... Kind of like rancid vegetable oil.

Before that, I was very impressed with how slick it was. So slick that if you get it on your fingers you can forget getting the cap off of the bottle. Ease of cleanup was a dream.

I also have to admit not being pleased to see that it can be frozen solid.

[tcba_joe]

Just came back from shooting a stored 10/22 that was lubed with Fireclean. Or better: not shooting, as the firing pin
and extractor wouldn't move. This stuff gives the word "gummed" a new dimension...
Larry Vickers assured me that couldn't happen... :rolleyes:

[Tom Duffy]

For a while, I used fireclean on my HK pistols and I liked it. I shot the HKs very regularly so kept swapping out the fireclean. Probably a good thing, I never used it on my metal guns. For those, I used M-Pro7 oil. I have an old half used bottle of fireclean and it's turned very gummy. Finally decided fireclean wasn't worth the risk when gun oil works.

[Wake27]

I don't know how you guys have such different experiences than I do. I just returned from OCONUS and my firearms that stayed stateside were absolutely fine. None of them had been shot in 14 months, and several hadn't been shot in almost five years.

I've got a beater PSA upper laying around. If you guys really want, I can re-lube the shit out of it and leave it out for the next few nights. We're supposed to get snow tonight, though I doubt it'll be the six inches they're estimating.

[cornstalker]

I don't know how you guys have such different experiences than I do. I just returned from OCONUS and my firearms that stayed stateside were absolutely fine. None of them had been shot in 14 months, and several hadn't been shot in almost five years.

I've got a beater PSA upper laying around. If you guys really want, I can re-lube the shit out of it and leave it out for the next few nights. We're supposed to get snow tonight, though I doubt it'll be the six inches they're estimating.

Luck of the draw I guess? I was extremely happy with it and recommended it to everyone right up until the point where it failed spectacularly.

[JV_]

Luck of the draw I guess?Or, it could be environmental. Things like humidity impact things differently.

[TGS]

For the guys who didn’t like Slip because it wasn’t heavy enough, did you try one of Slip’s heavier products?

[OnionsAndDragons]

I think it may have a shelf life. It worked great for me across a dozen guns and three years when applied as directed. One day it started to stink and turned to sludge, inducing failures to feed in one of my 19x's. My 9mm bore snake stinks so bad I might have to pitch it... Kind of like rancid vegetable oil.

Before that, I was very impressed with how slick it was. So slick that if you get it on your fingers you can forget getting the cap off of the bottle. Ease of cleanup was a dream.

I also have to admit not being pleased to see that it can be frozen solid.

FireClean is a veggie based oil, and what you describe is exactly what happens when oils go rancid.

Environmental factors can go a long way to explaining the varied experiences of folks w the product. Oils spoil very differently depending on age, storage conditions, additives, etc. Maybe FireClean has an additive that helps prevent spoilage, but the batching isn’t super-consistent, which could explain one persons spoiling in conditions that another’s didn’t.


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[DacoRoman]

I tried it out mainly on one particular AR, which I ran through a couple of classes, one a pretty high round count Frank Proctor class and the other a fairly low round count Sheriff of Baghdad video diagnostics class, and it seemed to work well. I then let the gun sit for at least 3 months during the cold season, after which time I noticed that the oil and fouling mixture was congealed, gunky and pasty, and kind of nasty. I since switched to using Lucas Oil which I have no complaints about at this time.

My other anecdote about FireClean is that in a subsequent SOB class a student had laid his rifle down bolt locked back, and his rifle was beset by an army of ants. The assistant instructor asked the student if he used FireClean, and the student answered in the affirmative, at which point the AI said, "yeah, it is some kind of vegetable oil and ants love that stuff." I thought that was kind of funny, and I will say that getting your gear attacked in the field by ants going after your lube could royally suck.

[Aray]

I really want someone to use cooking oil on their guns. Because they deserve what they get.

Don't use lubricants with Chlorinated Esters, like Militech-1 (at least it used to) because of chloride stress corrosion causing cracks in metal.

Don't leave food safe lubricants on guns for any significant period of time unless you want to clean the sticky oxidized crap off of said guns.

The lubrication problems posed by pistols are really very easy to solve. You can use almost any decent lube that is good for your temperature window, the only real performance difference is how often you need to reapply.

I don't like grease on guns.

Most people (even famous ones) have no business recommending lubricants for any specific application.

[GuanoLoco]

I really want someone to use cooking oil on their guns. Because they deserve what they get.

Don't use lubricants with Chlorinated Esters, like Militech-1 (at least it used to) because of chloride stress corrosion causing cracks in metal.

Don't leave food safe lubricants on guns for any significant period of time unless you want to clean the sticky oxidized crap off of said guns.

The lubrication problems posed by pistols are really very easy to solve. You can use almost any decent lube that is good for your temperature window, the only real performance difference is how often you need to reapply.

I don't like grease on guns.

Most people (even famous ones) have no business recommending lubricants for any specific application.

Curious: Was the old lube fully cleaned from the gun before appying the FireClean, or was it just layered on top of whatever mix was used last?

[runcible]

Aray absolutely nailed it.

https://www.gao.gov/products/GAO-09-735R Militec was giving it away by the case during the early swing of the war years, and it's only advantages were: higher viscosity over CLP and similar products, it was available in abundance because of receiving unsolicited cases, and folks not knowing better. The metal hardening and subsequence cracking issues were pretty well known in my AOs by mid-'06.

Fireclean's only hope as a lubricant is to be replaced prior to going rancid and decomposing; it doesn't matter if it is applied to bare or partially lubricated parts; it's x number of temperature cycles and y period of disuse away from being a mess.

Froglube's only hope as a lubricant is for it to be baked on (removing the majority of it in the first place, and also reducing its lubricious donating) and for the weapon it's applied to, to never be cooled. It's better than chapstick on a weapon for OTB activities, but food processor machinery have the wear and failure rates that they do in large part because they have greater mechanical resistance at the start of their operation than at the end. Froglube being repackaged food processor lubricant, most firearms starting from the closed bolt (e.g. no running start prior to first cycling); well, it's not a great combination. Most firearms aren't designed with the same drainage ports or eye for lubricant not accumulating in small channels while still in a fluid state, before congealing into a paste while at rest.

My org does not have good experiences with Fireclean nor Froglube, and it is usually identified because the weapon gets deadlined until a detailed strip, clean, and\or time in the oven or cleaning tank.

[Wake27]

If FireClean "expires" because of it being vegetable based (which I thought was disproven?), it should expire whether its in the bottle or applied on the gun, right?

[JV_]

it should expire whether its in the bottle or applied on the gun, right?Exposure to oxygen accelerates vegetable oil spoilage. So, spoilage could differ based on whether it's sealed or openly exposed to air.

(I'm not saying FireClean was/is vegetable oil. I have no idea what FireClean is made of and I didn't follow all of the drama around it. I don't use "gun oils.")

[Kyle Reese]

I apologize for the thread drift, but has anyone used Cherrybalmz lubricant? I received a complimentary bottle of their Black Rifle lube, and applied it to my issued Glock 35 Gen 4. I only have 1,200 rounds on this gun since applying the lubricant, but so far, I'm pleased with it.

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[runcible]

Re: Fireclean; https://patents.google.com/patent/CA2867869A1/en

Re: FrogLube; http://www.tracklubeplus.com/ one might compare the descriptors.

It should be mentioned, that outside of austere environments it is not ideal to use automotive fluids to clean nor lubricate firearms. Quite a large many of those carry substances that are not beneficial to inhale when aerosolized or vaporized, to absorb through the skin via direct contact, or to ingest by accident during firing or through secondary contamination.

[JV_]

Quite a large many of those carry substances that are not beneficial to inhale when aerosolized or vaporized, to absorb through the skin via direct contact, or to ingest by accident during firing or through secondary contamination.

How do those substances compare to the ones already present in the priming compounds and powder?

[runcible]

You're not wrong at all, JV; and the Norwegian military's experience regarding that same wasn't that long ago. What I'd offer is that when dealing with something unavoidable but unhealthy, less is better than more.

I run ranges and conduct training in poorly ventilated indoor ranges, and all that goes with that can't be avoided; but I can reduce the other things that I'm exposed to, and I can do my best to avoid bringing any of that home to contaminate my living space.

[JV_]

What I'd offer is that when dealing with something unavoidable but unhealthy, less is better than more.
I don't disagree with that.

But I don't seek out 'non toxic' lubes for my guns as if it's something more than a marketing line. Once that stuff mixes with shot residue, it's toxic. I tend to worry more about exposure to it while cleaning my guns more than while shooting, but I shoot in well ventilated ranges. Wearing gloves while cleaning guns is my first choice.

[Aray]

Re: Fireclean; https://patents.google.com/patent/CA2867869A1/en

Re: FrogLube; http://www.tracklubeplus.com/ one might compare the descriptors.

It should be mentioned, that outside of austere environments it is not ideal to use automotive fluids to clean nor lubricate firearms. Quite a large many of those carry substances that are not beneficial to inhale when aerosolized or vaporized, to absorb through the skin via direct contact, or to ingest by accident during firing or through secondary contamination.

This is broadly only true with lubricants that have been contaminated with combustion byproducts. Gasoline has a ton of long chain hydrocarbons that are really nasty when burned.

[Joe in PNG]

This is broadly only true with lubricants that have been contaminated with combustion byproducts. Gasoline has a ton of long chain hydrocarbons that are really nasty when burned.

So, Mobil 1 fresh from the bottle should be fine, but using your waste oil after an oil change is not such a good idea then?

[OlongJohnson]

https://www.exxonmobil.com/sds


Don't use lubricants with Chlorinated Esters, like Militech-1 (at least it used to) because of chloride stress corrosion causing cracks in metal.

I've wondered to what extent that situation is responsible for anecdotes about AR-pattern guns that were cleaned and lubed regularly breaking parts, while AR-pattern guns that were pretty much just used kept running and running.


Don't leave food safe lubricants on guns for any significant period of time unless you want to clean the sticky oxidized crap off of said guns.

I haven't noticed this stuff having issues. Other than the fact that it's grease-not-oil, are you aware of the SFL-0 and SFL-1 being problematic long term?

https://www.lubriplate.com/Products/Food-Grade-Lubricants/SFL-Series-Food-Grade-Grease.html


I don't like grease on guns.

I am happier with plenty of oil on my Sigs than with grease.

[Aray]

So, Mobil 1 fresh from the bottle should be fine, but using your waste oil after an oil change is not such a good idea then?

I can agree with that.

[Aray]

https://www.exxonmobil.com/sds



I've wondered to what extent that situation is responsible for anecdotes about AR-pattern guns that were cleaned and lubed regularly breaking parts, while AR-pattern guns that were pretty much just used kept running and running.



I haven't noticed this stuff having issues. Other than the fact that it's grease-not-oil, are you aware of the SFL-0 and SFL-1 being problematic long term?

https://www.lubriplate.com/Products/Food-Grade-Lubricants/SFL-Series-Food-Grade-Grease.html



I am happier with plenty of oil on my Sigs than with grease.

I’m lumping Food Grade and “Non-Toxic” together, they aren’t always grease. The base stocks used in these oxidize more rapidly than the petroleum or synthetic base stocks.

I recommend against grease partly because it needs to be removed and reapplied more often than most think.

[OlongJohnson]

I’m lumping Food Grade and “Non-Toxic” together, they aren’t always grease. The base stocks used in these oxidize more rapidly than the petroleum or synthetic base stocks.

I recommend against grease partly because it needs to be removed and reapplied more often than most think.

Lubriplate SFL-series grease is synthetic:

synthetic based grease and the aluminum complex soap thickener

They also have a series of oils:

https://www.lubriplate.com/Products/Food-Grade-Lubricants/FMO-AW-Series.html


FMO-AW Series
Multi-Purpose, Food Grade USP White Mineral Oils

These super multi-purpose, anti-wear fortified, USP White mineral oil based lubricants are manufactured in ten ISO grades for a wide variety of applications. NOTE: FMO-350AW is also available in a red and orange color which helps in leak detection. The original FMO Series products without the anti-wear additive system are still available. FMO-1100AW and FMO-2400AW pass 12 stages of the FZG test.

Is "USP White mineral oil" the rapidly-oxidizing stuff, or is it petroleum-based?

I am on board with the remove/reapply when it comes to slide rails. It seems to me that grease takes the abrasives and makes a lapping slurry out of it, to whatever extent it remains in the areas where stuff is sliding back and forth. Cleaning the bulk of it to reset on the abrasive accumulation is more work than wiping out oil. Much easier to keep freshly applying oil in reasonably generous quantities and let it flush the abrasives away from where things slide. It wicks back into slots and channels between cycles. Wipe it off the outside as needed between cleanings.

I know that in the past, you have posted extensively. Is there any particular thread or post where you've done a big brain dump that I could read and stop asking stupid questions?

[Aray]

Lubriplate SFL-series grease is synthetic:


They also have a series of oils:

https://www.lubriplate.com/Products/Food-Grade-Lubricants/FMO-AW-Series.html



Is "USP White mineral oil" the rapidly-oxidizing stuff, or is it petroleum-based?

I am on board with the remove/reapply when it comes to slide rails. It seems to me that grease takes the abrasives and makes a lapping slurry out of it, to whatever extent it remains in the areas where stuff is sliding back and forth. Cleaning the bulk of it to reset on the abrasive accumulation is more work than wiping out oil. Much easier to keep freshly applying oil in reasonably generous quantities and let it flush the abrasives away from where things slide. It wicks back into slots and channels between cycles. Wipe it off the outside as needed between cleanings.

I know that in the past, you have posted extensively. Is there any particular thread or post where you've done a big brain dump that I could read and stop asking stupid questions?

I looked around and couldn't find the threads where I got ranty in the past.

Short version, yes turning grease into lapping compound can be a thing, and not a great thing.

Grease is usually a metal soap binder (like lithium) and an oil. Grease must separate or "bleed" to actually lubricate. The lower the viscosity (NGLI rating) the more it bleeds. The oil that bleeds from the binder is just as susceptible to the bad things that happen to bottled lubes, it will go away. The longer the grease is in place, the more it bleeds or separates. At some point there is not a lot of oil left in the binder, and you just have binder, which is a crappy lubricant. If you have grease in a CV joint boot on your car, the oil and binder get mixed up every time the car moves, they are also contained inside that sealed boot, so the grease lasts a really long time. Not so much, when the grease is exposed to atmosphere 24/7.