Improving the Trigger of a M&P9C Without Going the Apex Route?

[walker2713]

I've got a M&P 9C that I want to give to one of my grown daughters, but am not very happy about the stock trigger. It's probably a typical setup, with a slow mushy pull, little of no "wall" and an almost imperceptible reset.

I've done a couple of Apex trigger jobs on M&P's, but from both a time and expense standpoint I just don't want to go that route. They are definitely an improvement over the factory provided trigger.

Can someone suggest anything I can do with the internals....polishing, etc.etc. that might "up" the trigger yanking experience without getting the Apex parts and installing them.

[Jim Watson]

Dan Burwell says this is not exactly what he does to them in his shop, but that it does help.
http://www.burwellguns.com/misc/M&Ptriggerjob.pdf

CAVEAT: I have not tried it, MY Plastic M&P was worked on by Mr Burwell himself.

[Rich@CCC]

I did the "Burwell Trigger Job" on my M&P40c and it was every bit as nice as the Apex drop in trigger work I installed in my M&P45c, just took longer.

[RJ]

From what I recall the Apex Ultimate Striker Block vastly improved the gritty icky press of my M&P FS.

Maybe worth to buy just the USB? Or maybe polish the striker block profile.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170825/8f00725161b10e3c6ce81a0874c34304.jpg

[richiecotite]

If it were me, I'd get the apex USB and then polish the sear and trigger bar. Seems like doing the full burwell trigger job would take considerably more time than just dropping in Apex parts


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[CraigS]

I did the Burwell polishing only to my 9c AND installed the Apex duty/carry trigger spring only. This made the initial takeup heavier, which I like, but also made the final pull to break the shot too heavy. I increased the gap on the trigger bar to .030 inches. This has the trigger bar engage the sear a little earlier and also changes the angle of the ramp. Both of these lighten the final pull some. But the final pull was still a little heavy so I went back to Burwell and read through it again. Then I filed and stoned the sear (pg24). Now I have a trigger I really like. I suspect I should have just bought an Apex sear but I learned more about the gun doing it myself.

[BobLoblaw]

Assuming this is going to be a concealed carry firearm for your daughter, it seems kinda cheap and risky to DIY. The Apex kit is less than $100 and takes less than 30 minutes. If it's a plinking gun, I'd still get the Apex kit. It's $100 and you get Apex CS and will have factory OEM parts as spares.

[Quantrill]

The revised oem trigger bar & slide stop/ release help with the reset.

I think the new trigger bar is stamped "H". The new slide stop has a bump on the inside where the contacts the trigger bar.

[Wendell]

The biggest issue I had with my M&P9 was with the overtravel. As it was, it was just hard to shoot.

A simple solution - albeit illegal for Production Division - was a pencil eraser, cut to length, blackened with a marker, and cemented to the frame (behind the trigger).

I first heard of that solution from 'Jim Grover (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fvTdfBX1v0A)' (writing about his modifications to his own G19).

[Sherman A. House DDS]

I have several M&P FS 9's and Compact 9's. When I got my first one years ago, I IMMEDIATELY upgraded to the Apex kit because that's what all the cool kids were doing, and I wanted to be cool.

Some five M&P's later (I still have them) my four faves have factory triggers that have been dry practiced and live fired until the point where they are equal to/surpass the Apex.

So, my cheap solution is just run it until the parts smooth out.


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