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Chuteur
05-22-2017, 07:35 PM
Ha! In a self satisfied way.

I was looking at a popular bullet feeder to glue onto my 650 as I want to produce as many rounds with as little effort and as quickly as possible. I reload to shoot [cheaply], I do not shoot to reload.

Well in all my surfing I stumbled across a widget called the Crimson Bullet Collator, apparently no longer made. It was ostensibly a parts kit that allowed you to build a bullet collator which looked remarkably similar to a popular version being sold.

So, I thought to myself, if someone can build an Ike@ parts kit bullet feeder then why can't I? So I started with a few cardboard templates, bought some HDPE plastic and got out the router.

This is [hopefully] the final prototype. IT WORKS. The bullet plate turns, the slider plate thingy pushes upside down bullets out, the flipper thing flips them and the hole to drop them into the tube is in the right place.

I need some more HDPE and I should have a fully functional shiny one dropping bullets into primered, powder filled cases by next week. And no, I did not want to build one out of an old L*we's bucket.

The big questions: How much? Answer: I should have 2 fully functioning ones for just about around $140 including all the protoyping costs.

Worth it? Answer: I enjoy building things and solving problems and now I can make one of these anytime.

http://i67.tinypic.com/fd9ci8.jpg

SeriousStudent
05-22-2017, 09:01 PM
Very, very cool. There is nothing quite as satisfying as designing and completing one's own solution.

I have been trying to decide between a Dillon 650 with a Mr Bullet Feeder and a 1050. So this is very relevant to my searches.

Chuteur
05-22-2017, 09:25 PM
Very, very cool. There is nothing quite as satisfying as designing and completing one's own solution.

I have been trying to decide between a Dillon 650 with a Mr Bullet Feeder and a 1050. So this is very relevant to my searches.

I have a 650.......I am getting a 1050 in the next couple of months. I should have got a 1050 in the first place if I had considered the issue fully.

With the 650 I have invested in two different primer pocket swager widgets which attach in place of the primer seating fitment. Neither of them functions satisfactorily, one not at all, both are effectively as useful as smelly dog poop. Further, with the 650 for any action not directly intended of the press originally you have to run through two cycles with the cases. The first to do case prep (primer pocket swaging), the second to perform the reloading.........effectively more than doubling your production time due to having to change out components.

The 1050 accommodates case prep during it's one cycle, the built in primer pocket swager functions magnificently meaning no hickeys with crimped primer pockets.

I cannot recommend a 1050 to you, that is for you to decide. However, just to make it clear, I shall be selling my 650 when I get around to it as pfaffing around with crimped primers, stopping production, wasting primers and chewing up decapping pins is getting tedious.

As to the bullet feeder: Watch this space. When it is fully 110% I will gladly share my design with all and sundry, anyone with access to (or who has a friend with) a bench drill, router, with some bits and a screwdriver should be able to knock one out for under $100.

1slow
05-22-2017, 10:30 PM
Bless you ! This is of strong interest.

nate89
05-23-2017, 05:08 PM
I have been on the fence for months about getting a Mr. Bullet Feeder for my 650. No doubt it is a quality addition, but I just haven't been able to justify the rather large cost for something that I don't think will speed me up enough to justify it. I have seen people making their own feeders, but haven't really considered trying it myself. Very well done, glad to see your success!

SecondsCount
05-23-2017, 06:14 PM
That is pretty sweet!

I have a dozen of the little 12V gearmotors to run one and have considered making my own.

Chuteur
05-23-2017, 08:42 PM
That is pretty sweet!

I have a dozen of the little 12V gearmotors to run one and have considered making my own.

You've saved an extra $15.00 already.:D

I have spent the odd hour here and there over about the last three weeks putting it all together based on a video of the popular bullet feeder and the assembly instructions for the Crimson Collator - if I rushed it would be crap, so I have taken my time. Should be tickety boo by next week.

I will admit to having had a Hornady bullet dropper die laying around for a while so I have not had to buy one of those.

Chuteur
05-24-2017, 08:06 PM
http://i65.tinypic.com/1zzm9ab.jpg

This is fitted to the press with a bodged method of using 1x2 and a couple of brackets to establish the best angle to make sure bullets travel around the plate correctly, hit the flippers correctly and drop down the chute.

I ran a thousand 124gr 9mm through it and had 4 drop upside down - I think I know what the problem is. The run speed is around 3 minutes for 100 bullets which I think can be improved a bit too - but that works out at about 2000 an hour cyclic rate without allowing for top up time and primer refill time.

The magicness....

View My Video (http://tinypic.com/r/280v095/9)

jeep45238
05-27-2017, 07:35 AM
Nice!!



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Chuteur
05-28-2017, 11:38 AM
CHUTEURS BULLET COLLATOR BUILD

Firstly, to mis-quote Douglas Adam’s: Don’t Panic [if you flock up]. What could possibly go wrong that can’t be fixed? Also, I am not telling you what to do, or providing instructions, I am telling you what I did
First I did some drawing, made some cardboard templates, bought some supplies, made a router table from ¾ inch ply, cut 3 plastic discs, cut a plastic sheet, drilled some holes and did some screwing. Simple.

MATERIALS I USED:

1 – 24” x 48” sheet of ¾ “ ply (HD or L’s)
1 - 6” drainage pipe section
1 - Black Boltaron Sheet (like kydex, but allegedly stronger) 0.080" 12 X 24 P1 Finish Made in USA $12.39 (am@zon)
1 - Seaboard High Density Polyethylene Sheet, Matte Finish, 1/4" Thick, 12" Length x 36" Width, Black $16.43 (@mazon)
1 - Seaboard High Density Polyethylene Sheet, Matte Finish, 1/2" Thick, 12" Length x 24" Width, Black $21.98(@mazon)
1 - uxcell DC 12V 6RPM 6mm Shaft High Torque Turbine Worm Geared Motor $15.25(@mazon)
1 - Pixnor 6V 12V 24V 28V 3A 80W DC Motor Speed Controller (PWM) Speed Adjustable Reversible Switch… $8.45(@mazon)
1 - Pitsco Education 39079 Tetrix MAX Motor Hub (Pack of 2) $11.11 (@mazon)
1 - sweeper spring 11/32” x 2 3/8” x .035”” (L*we’s, hanging up in the hardware section)
1 - feedtube spring 9/16” outside measurement $4.99 (L*wes, hanging up in the hardware section)
4 - M3 x ½” screws for the motor
1 - 110V to 12V DC transformer, I had a box full of old phone and laptops power supplys – you will know someone who does too.
1 - Clear plastic 9/16th tubing. Available online from fish tank supplier type company for a couple of $. I shall probably need a couple of sizes of tube to cope with 9mm and 5.56mm.
1 - Insert male adapter ½” (like a grey screw in widget to push a hose pipe onto, in the plumbing section (L*we’s) less than 50c.
1 - microswitch.
Some wire.
Assorted screws, nuts and washers and other bits and bob’s found in and around the shed, stolen from neighbours or borrowed from work.
Note: The materials allowed me to make one complete working bullet collator body, and enough left over to make another excluding the electrics. This was limited by the quantity of Boltaron used for the sidewall of the collator – knowing how it goes together now I have enough HDPE to make about another couple. So, if you have a friend who wants one get together and reduce the cost.
Disclosure: I already owned a Hornady bullet dropper die. Can’t drop bullets without a dropper die. Less than $30 on eb@y.

THE BUILD

Step 1. I made a router table out of the ¾” ply. This acted as the dedicated work area for the project allowing me to make holes, draw and generally abuse the surface of the router table. I have a router and a trimmer, but no router table. Youtube was my friend here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dDHt2NQHKSI

Step 2. Rather than rough engineering it out of the expensive plastic to start I made some carboard templates. The width/diameter of the collator was dependent on the size of drainpipe I had acquired to use as a mold/form for the boltaron. The drainpipe was around 6 1/8” in diameter. That being the case I made the base of the collator template disc 6 1/8” with the flipper extension of the base out at 8”. Basically you draw an 8” circle with a 6 1/8” circle inside it.

I divided the 6 1/8” circle into 4 equal parts (quarter it). Marked where each point of the quarters touched the out edge of the 6 1/8” circle. Then drew a box connecting the four points so that I had a square inside the circle. Then continued two of the lines out to the 8” circle, cut out the 8” circle and then removed 3 of the 6” – 8” sections to leave a sticky out bit.

Look at the picture.

I made two discs for the base as there needs to be some cutting out for motor and electronics placement and with a simple workshop router steered by a numpty I could not do CNC quality machining. By planning on two discs to be placed one on top of the other I could make all the cutouts and then put a nice flat piece on top for the rotor disc to run on.

Hmmmm! Sorry Pic Upload Fail. I will try again later

Chuteur
05-28-2017, 01:06 PM
Carbdoards template's, first iteration:

Upper base disc
Lower base disc
Sidewall

https://s4.postimg.org/jetc7gjkp/IMG_0572.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/jetc7gjkp/)

LittleLebowski
05-28-2017, 01:19 PM
Dear god, this is amazing and timely.

Chuteur
05-28-2017, 04:01 PM
Dear god, this is amazing and timely.

I am, what we British call, kack handed (ten thumbs) and if I can put my thinking head on and build one then anyone can. Tools required were: Router (I had a small router/trimmer too which was convenient but not necessary); bench drill (an el-cheapo job from L*we's for about $99 (if you don't have one a friend will); jig saw; ruler; compass; assorted drill bits, screwdrivers. Just a case of thinking the problem through, test driving it in your head two or three times then doing it.

BTW today I put the Mr B*11etfeeder expander (extravagance but well worth it) die into the powder die, connected the feed tube to the Hornady dropper die today and was testing individual bullets. Happy, happy, happy so far.

LittleLebowski
05-28-2017, 04:02 PM
I am, what we British call, kack handed (ten thumbs) and if I can put my thinking head on and build one then anyone can. Tools required were: Router (I had a small router/trimmer too which was convenient but not necessary); bench drill (an el-cheapo job from L*we's for about $99 (if you don't have one a friend will); jig saw; ruler; compass; assorted drill bits.

BTW today I put the Mr B*11etfeeder expander (extravagance but well worth it) die into the powder die, connected the feed tube to the Hornady dropper die today and was testing individual bullets. Happy, happy, happy so far.

Post any pictures of the assembly process you might have, if you could. I would appreciate it.

Chuteur
05-28-2017, 04:06 PM
Post any pictures of the assembly process you might have, if you could. I would appreciate it.

This is what I found online which prompeted me to make one. Apparently he used to sell the kits and stopped, maybe he got a hard time from a manufacturer, who knows? I have effectively made my own parts and put them together following his instructions.

http://entirelycrimson.com/diy/collatorinstructions.pdf

But, I will happily put up the pics as I get to it so you can follow how to make the components for yerself. Shop around and you can get the motor and controller board cheaper too.

Chuteur
05-28-2017, 05:19 PM
3. Positioning motor and control board.

I used 1/42" HDPE plastic for the lower disc and 1/4" HDPE for the upper. The reason for this was:

a. I planned to fasten both discs together to make a single unit.
b. The motor shaft was not long enough to go through 3/4" or 1/2". But it should go through 1/4" and protrude enough to locate a bullet collating disc.
b. The lower 1/2" HDPE disc will have the sidewall screwed into it

MADE SURE I DRILLED A 1/4" HOLE SMACK DAB IN THE CENTRE OF BOTH DISCS. This kept the discs centred and allowed me to poke through the motor drive shaft to draw around it to determine the material to remove.

https://s16.postimg.org/ob5zg7li9/IMG_0575.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/ob5zg7li9/)

Once I had removed material I could then mock up to determine where to mark screw holes for drilling and switch placement.

Chuteur
05-28-2017, 05:28 PM
4. The router table.

When I had built the router table I could start cutting at discs.

It had already been determined that the discs would have an inner diameter of 6 1/4" and an outer diameter of 8".

There fore the router table needed two holes drilling to act as spindles to cut the disc. One at 3 1/8" the other at 4" THESE WERE DRILLED SO THAT THE EDGE OF THE HOLE NEAREST THE ROUTER BIT WAS THE RELEVANT MEASUREMENT.

https://s12.postimg.org/5xz5qfyux/IMG_0588.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/5xz5qfyux/) ...... https://s15.postimg.org/6itfvssfb/IMG_0589.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/6itfvssfb/)


First cut was done using some MDF I had around, just to practce technicque. As it turned out I was able to use the MDF disc as a copy jig for routing the HDPE versions.

https://s7.postimg.org/9k2mk7gnr/IMG_0577.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/9k2mk7gnr/)

Chuteur
05-28-2017, 05:42 PM
5. Cutting the HDPE.

I have never worked with plastic, I have not actually done much routing, I was surprised by:

a. How easy it was to work with the plastic. I made a couple of boo boo's, and learned that it needs a SLOW STEADY CONSTANT PACE to avoid burrs and screw ups.
b. If I say that 1 cubic inch of plastic when routed turns into 100 cubic inches of plastic waste I would not be exaggerating.....I very, very, quickly had a vacuum cleaner nozzle near the router bit.

https://s2.postimg.org/n0obwrkx1/IMG_0580.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/n0obwrkx1/)

NOTE: For the general cutting I used a 1/4 " straight bit.

The bullet collator disc is one complete round disc without the flipper tray section. I just drilled a 1/4" hole, put through my 1/4" bolt, put the bolt into the 3 1/8" hole and used a 3/8" straight router bit. 3/8" because it is a bit smaller than the base discs and should rotate freely around the 1/4" centre when it is all done.

Chuteur
05-28-2017, 05:45 PM
6. MDF lower with motor cutout.

https://s14.postimg.org/dw18zcihp/IMG_0581.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/dw18zcihp/)

Test fitting the HDPE upper to the MDF lower, just to make sure everything fits as I moved along.

https://s14.postimg.org/oscm90k3x/IMG_0582.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/oscm90k3x/)

Chuteur
05-28-2017, 05:55 PM
7. Forming the sidewall. I have never doen kydex or Boltaron before so it was a totally new experience for me. Child's play as it turned out after my initial worry.

Anyway, I had revised my original sidewall design. To make the nicely rounded upper corners I used a 6" steel target as the jig to run the boltaron through the router with a copy trim bit, marked the holes for screws which I had worked out my measuring and marking on the MDF lower disc plate.

https://s8.postimg.org/m3gpu3ag1/IMG_0584.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/m3gpu3ag1/)

Then, I had read that thermoplastic like kydex is workable at 225 degrees. So I set the oven, let it warm and popped in the boltaron on a non stick sheet.

I checked the floppyness (thats a technical term used by people who have'nt got a clue) evry 30 seconds and at around 90 seconds it was floppy enough to use and not liquid.

I lifted the boltaron out and put it over the 6" pipe I had and positioned it so that the edge of the boltaron was in line with the edge of the pipe - wearing gloves. Then the cardboard you see I wrapped over and round the boltaron pulling it tight so that there were no sticky out bits and it was all nice and round.

https://s16.postimg.org/wicinv0vl/IMG_0585.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/wicinv0vl/)

The bits so far. Don't worry, I shall explain how I did the inlet for the flippers on the upper disc.

https://s23.postimg.org/hgtp50do7/IMG_0586.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/hgtp50do7/)

Chuteur
05-28-2017, 09:13 PM
8. I will give the main collator a rest for a moment and take a look at how the collator disc was made.

Now I want to feed 9mm so screwing it up a couple of times taught me that:

a. The collator bullet disc needs to be just a little smaller than the collator, free enough to turn, but not to much space. As I stated above to cut the collator/flipper base disc I used a 1/4" cutter with the pivot being in the 3 1/8" pivot hole. To cut the bullet disc I used a 3/8" cutter.....making it just a bit smaller than the collator/flipper base with 1/16" either side.

b. The holes for the bullet to drop into also need to be just a little larger than the intended calibre - I used a 13/32" drill. It worked for me!

Two things to do on the collator bullet disc: drill the hub hole; drill and clean up the bullet holes.

The hub hole: I tried drilling the shaft of the motor to put in a pin, but either the shaft is made out of diamond or my drills are blunt so I needed a hub and not a pin to drive the bullet disc. I put a 1/4" drill bit in the drill then moved it down into the 1'4" hole in the disc and attached it to the drill bed. Then swapped out the 1/4" drill for a forstner bit to cut out the hole for the hub - slowly, drill a bit, check the depth with the hub, drill a bit,.......finally I drilled the four holes for the locking screws

The holes for the bullets: I marked up the disc into 12 slices for 12 bullet holes. I drilled a 1/4" hole in a board, put the disc on the board using a 1/4" bolt as a pivot point and then positioned the board so that one of the marked points was under the 13/32" drill bit. Now using the force I positioned the disc so that when it was drilled there would be a paper thin piece of plastic left on the outside edge of each of the 12 holes - that's PAPER THIN, ok? Once that was over the outside edge and sides of the hole were straightened and cleaned up using a straight router bit - not making the hole bigger, just opening it and straightening the sides. Easy......believe that and I'll sell you an igloo.

The effectiveness of the holes can only be seen when the disc is tested in the collator. It took me two attempts and even then the second time I had two holes which need a little, tiny bit more taking away as the bullets were not turning on the flipper.

https://s11.postimg.org/58gpskrpr/IMG_0618.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/58gpskrpr/) .... https://s30.postimg.org/bxk89b5kt/IMG_0621.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/bxk89b5kt/)

Stay tuned.

Chuteur
05-29-2017, 09:46 AM
9. Back to the collator discs, upper 1/4" and lower 1/2":

Lower - as stated just marked out and the hole for the motor cut and also a recess for the electronics as the PCB board is not flat.

The recess for the PCB

https://s11.postimg.org/bn8509qjz/IMG_0616.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/bn8509qjz/)

The mdf version I made first alongside the HDPE version. It was easy enough to use the mdf version as a jig for making the HDPE version using a trimmer bit in the router and takes about 5 minutes to make one now instead of half an hour.

https://s10.postimg.org/cfopwndtx/IMG_0615.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/cfopwndtx/)

The upper disc:

This caused me a headache and then it sort of dawned on me....I'm not a woodworker, or engineer, so whilst I get satisfaction from doing this kind of stuff I sometimes go the long way round to get a result.

It needs to be recessed for the flipper tray/slider and the flipper ramp. The flipper tray/slider size and design was worked out using cardboard then I knew how much area needed to be removed. I made a simple jig to router out this area to a depth just a smidgen deeper than the thickness of the flipper tray/slider. Basically I wanted the top edge of the flipper tray slider to be just a few thou lower than the flat surface of the upper collator disc - that that an approaching bullet did not bump into the flipper tray/slider, but smoothly dropped a little and carried on its way.

After routing using jig. The disc is screwed into the table to hold it in place.

https://s18.postimg.org/vcaftryyt/IMG_0597.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/vcaftryyt/)

Then the flipper ramp area needed to be routed. Easy actually. The area of the curve that neede to be routed was directly in line (a continuation of) the curve of the 6 1/4" inner curve of the collator disc. So just a case of putting back in a 1/4" bit on the router table, adjust it to the required depth, put the disc in face down after marking on the edge where the routing needed to stop and going for it. Once the curve was done it was lifted and the extra routing done by eye and using a straight edge.

https://s24.postimg.org/48g5gjept/IMG_0598.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/48g5gjept/) ... https://s1.postimg.org/tm4nkp2qz/IMG_0609.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/tm4nkp2qz/)

Chuteur
05-29-2017, 09:56 AM
10. Flipper ramp

Easy enough. I cut a piece of mdf on the same curve that the flipper ramp would have to sit in, cut it and then glued one on top of the other and set about shaping the ramp once the glue was dry.

1st, 2nd & 3rd cuts

https://s30.postimg.org/532igmyf1/IMG_0592.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/532igmyf1/) ... https://s3.postimg.org/c2eyvwm27/IMG_0593.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/c2eyvwm27/) ... https://s16.postimg.org/vuv3av235/IMG_0594.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/vuv3av235/)

Glueing

https://s23.postimg.org/q3vrn9aon/IMG_0595.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/q3vrn9aon/)

Shaping

https://s30.postimg.org/clt3gew0t/IMG_0611.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/clt3gew0t/)

Test fit. I forget how many times I assembled and disassembled the collator

https://s22.postimg.org/86m43f8nh/IMG_0612.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/86m43f8nh/)

Chuteur
05-29-2017, 10:02 AM
11. Locating the bullet drop hole.

This was a problem first time. I made the hole just back inside the sidewall of the collator well after the flipper ramp. Problem trust me. I made a new hole right after the flipper ramp on the flipper extension of the disc and it works a treat.

I also figured that if I drew an imaginary line the bullet needed to pass fully over the drop hole and not ride on any edges of the hole. The collator will be at an angle so I figured that the bullet would be resting on the back edge of the bullet disc and worked it out from there..

Chuteur
05-31-2017, 04:33 PM
12. The bullet feed tube assembly.

Now, you can either go with the idea on the Crimson collator where the spring tube is twisted/screwed into the plastic of the base plate, or you can do something a little more exciting - I chose exciting as I will probably want to change out feed tubes easily for different calibres.

The bits are all in the picture and are all from L*we's:

https://s4.postimg.org/6ojefy4bt/IMG_0639.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/6ojefy4bt/)

Pic shows the working version and the bits for a second one. The grey 1/2 Lasco widget is cut down and sanded down in diameter before being superglued into the 1/2" coupling. Then you need to run a 1/2" drill up and down inside the assembly to remove any protrusions which bullets may land upon and cause a blockage. I then wrapped a couple of layers of electrical tape around the spring and screwed it into the 1/2" coupling.

The white fitting with the femal screw thread goes into the base plate of the bullet collator and is superglued in. That way you can easily screw the spring assembly in and out and change it over for a different one (calibre). Ignore the temporary brackets and bits of wood, they are just the temporary mounting arrangement whilst test running.

https://s21.postimg.org/iarlglm3n/IMG_0642.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/iarlglm3n/) ... https://s14.postimg.org/txrbz30xp/IMG_0643.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/txrbz30xp/)

Down into the bullet tube and into the Hornady bullet dropper die. The black super expensive fitting on top of the Hornady die is a rubber chair leg tip (pack of 4 L*wes, $2.99), just drilled a tube sized hole in it..

https://s12.postimg.org/npymgz36h/IMG_0638.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/npymgz36h/)

POINT TO NOTE: YOU NEED TO MAKE SURE THAT THE FEED TUBE ASSEMBLY TO THE SPRING IS SMOOTH INSIDE.

Chuteur
05-31-2017, 04:40 PM
I've had a couple or three PM's on this. Is it useful for people? And the rules are that if you build one you have to post a picture of it, ok!

Having done some test runs loading dummy rounds I find it pretty exciting that a pull of the handle gives a finished round with virtually no extra effort and pfaffing.

I had a guy around to quote for some work today and he saw the setup in the garage:

Him: "Yuh shoot and reload, huh"?

Me: "I certainly do".

Him: "Whats that reloading press, not seen one like that before".

Me: "Dillon 650, progressive".

Him: "Hmmmm".

Me: "I'll show you". Turned on the case feeder, connected up the bulletfeeder and cranked the handle. I had him open mouthed at the first completed round.

punkey71
05-31-2017, 06:25 PM
VERY useful.

I appreciate all the effort.

Thanks!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Chuteur
05-31-2017, 06:36 PM
IMPORTANT NOTE:

I should have mentioned earlier about glueing HDPE plastic. It is wonderful stuff, machines easily, and is the stuff used for plastic cutting boards. However, what makes it excellent for cutting boards is what makes it painful to glue. It is so naturally slippy that glue will not stick to it easily. That is for glueing anything to HDPE, or HDPE to HDPE.

Solutions:

1. Buy a really expensive industrial glue at $50 a tube...........nope!
2. Use screws in as many places as possible ........... that works!
3. There is a two part superglue pack in L*we's that works. Read the pack's, you want the one with the two glue packs: One is an activator mini sharpie pen type thing that you wipe all over both items to be glued, leave for a minute then apply glue to one item and press the items together for 30 seconds........that works too!

SeriousStudent
05-31-2017, 06:40 PM
Thank you very much for taking the time to create the photos and build documentation. I greatly appreciate it.

Chuteur
05-31-2017, 07:26 PM
13. The sweeper spring. (Part = 1 - sweeper spring 11/32” x 2 3/8” x .035”” (L*we’s, hanging up in the hardware section))

This knocks back bullets that only make it halfway into a hole. Easy peasy.

As it is to be mounted on a curve (the 6 1/4" curve) I had to cut a piece of plastic on that radius, made it about an inch deep so I could drill a hole for the spring to go through and wide enough for two screws to hold it in place.

Google up the crimson collator pdf instructions and you can see how he attached the plastic to the sidewall. Here you see mine on the inside left of the sidewall. I made the hole for the spring just a bit smaller than the spring so it would allow for the spring to be screwed up and down to allow for differing bullet lengths.

https://s1.postimg.org/qh4b6jbmz/IMG_0647.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/qh4b6jbmz/)

Chuteur
05-31-2017, 07:32 PM
General bits and bobs:

This is what bulk bullet feed reliability testing looks like:

https://s3.postimg.org/rh16k0l4f/IMG_0646.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/rh16k0l4f/)

Yet to come is the microswitch fitting and wiring up the motor to the controller board and microswitch. Just waiting on a microswitch to arrive. Then as the final component I shall make a decent mounting system.