Is the Olight S1R the best mini EDC light we have to date?

[cjb1911]

I got this light a few months back and it has since replaced my SL Protac 1L for light duty edc. I can't say enough how well thought out this light is. Two things that I love about this light are it's side button activation and its magnetic USB recharging cable. My only complaint is the execution on the pocket clip, 1 or 2 times it has separated from the body if I yank it out of the pocket by it's lanyard. This was my first venture into Olight as I have been a dyed in the wool Streamlight man for the past 10 yrs or so but I have to say I'm impressed. I have since also purchased a S30R, which stays in my vehicle 24/7.

The Good!

Max output of 900 lumens
4 diff illumination modes
easy to use side switch
magnetic USB recharging
CR123 compatiable
magnetic tailcap
moonlight mode is fantastic!
price point ~$60 on amazon


THE BAD
MADE IN CHINA!!!

16491
16492

[orionz06]

The side button doesn't strike me as useful for most here.


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[Gray222]

And "The Bad" ?

Not a fan of olight, very deceitful business practices.

Also, why buy a China made item when equal, and better, US made products are available?

[cjb1911]

And "The Bad" ?

Not a fan of olight, very deceitful business practices.

Also, why buy a China made item when equal, and better, US made products are available?

OK edited to add the "bad" ;)

[JohnO]

I prefer a light to be at least palm width in length and have tail cap activation.

[APS-PF]

I have an S1A and while I like the double-tap for high and the memory the side activation switch is effing useless when you're trying to turn the light on in a hurry, in the dark. You can try to position the clip so the button is next to, or exact opposite of the clip. But as you've found the clip moves.
I prefer the simple interface, price and tailcap switch of the Streamlight protacs like the 1L or 1L-1AAA.

[GuanoLoco]

Use a black zip tie to solve the clip problem.

[LittleLebowski]

Use a black zip tie to solve the clip problem.

Ah, the "Dillon 1050 fix" :D

[GuanoLoco]

Ah, the "Dillon 1050 fix" :D

Best $0.02 I ever spent on my PT1L and $0.06 I ever spent on my 1050.

[Irelander]

Looks like a nice light. Impressive output for a small light. I'm not a fan of the side button but I have never tried one. Doesn't seem like it would pair with a pistol very well.

Is there a good USA made light that is price competitive to this or say the FourSevens Quark line?

[Clusterfrack]

From what I'm seeing, I prefer my Nitecore MT10C. Good forward clicky rear switch, same or better lumens.

[BobLoblaw]

Tech advances so quickly that I try not to spend much $ in the flashlight arena buuut I did get the newest Klarus XT1C (700 lumen), Klarus XT2C (1100 lumen), and Streamlight Protac 2L-X (500 lumen).

Immediately, I found the XT1C to be inferior to the XT2C in every way (other than the pocket clip) since my pockets don't care how long my flashlights are until that length surpasses the pocket depth. I carried the XT2C for a while and although I'd rather fight with an XT2C over any other flashlight due to the switchology and brightness, the pocket clip is the worst so my belt ends up activating one of the switches way too often. Burning yourself daily is not fun and battery life suffers as a result. I dropped the XT2C a few times from pocket height and either high or strobe kicked on but I could not get it to turn off with the buttons -had to unscrew the tailcap.

In the end, I prefer the Streamlight 2L-X for EDC. Good battery life with 18650s @ 500 lumens and the deep carry pocket clip hides 99% of the flashlight body. Plus, as an impact weapon, I'd trust the electronics to survive in the Streamlight. The same can't be said for the Klarus. Killer light for $50.

[That Guy]

Is the Olight S1R the best mini EDC light we have to date?


I think you'll find most here prefer lights that can be used in a more tactical manner, if necessary.

Does that new version still have that glow in the dark stuff around the reflector?

I do find Olight makes good quality lights. I've had one attached to my shotgun for several years. It's not a high round count weapon but the light has received a bit of a thumping without any issues. The part where they (and most other flashlight companies) tend to fail is the interface. Too much emphasis on thirty seven different strobe modes and not enough on figuring out a simple and useful user interface.


Not a fan of olight, very deceitful business practices.


Can you go into more detail on that? First I've heard of it, would like to know more.



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[PearTree]

I've carried an M18 striker on duty for 2 years now and never a hitch. It knocks on doors, people, etc. and is still kicking. The 800 lumens is very impressive from such a small package. Puts many larger lights to shame from others I work with.

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[Gray222]

Can you go into more detail on that? First I've heard of it, would like to know more.



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Posted about it before here, couldn't find the post.

Basically olight has a proven history of approaching high standing/reputation/post count members on forums and bloggers to do paid reviews. They would send them products in return for good reviews and fast reviews.

I was approached a while back and told them to pound sand as they wanted a "full review" in my normal format which they wanted in 6 weeks. I told them it's a minimum of 3 months and they told me no one does that and that was unacceptable. I blocked them after that.

Chinese junk backed with deceitful marketing.

[LesPaul]

I really like the ThruNite T10 for an EDC light. It's a AA light that takes standard AA, NiMH rechargables (eneloops), or Lion AA's. I prefer AA lights because the dimensions tend to be perfect for EDC. Skinny enough to not be annoying in the pocket, but thick & sturdy enough to use "tactically" if you need to, and the length is just about palm length or a little longer. High mode puts out 252 lumens (double to 500 if you use the Lion's). It's water-proof, has a reversible spring clip so you can clip it to a hat if you want, is a rubberized tail-click, and can tail stand. Oh and it comes with a diffusion cone for room illumination. All for $20 which is good for me because i tend to misplace small objects and would hate to lose a $50+ flashlight... ThruNite has an amazon storefront so you get the comfort of amazon's return policies.

[cjb1911]

Basically olight has a proven history of approaching high standing/reputation/post count members on forums and bloggers to do paid reviews. They would send them products in return for good reviews and fast reviews.



Damnit! why did I do it for free!!! Send me some free stuff now olight!:cool:

[vaspence]

I have no idea about Olight's business practices but do know that I bought a T15 and a T25 in 07 or 08 and they both still work when I pull them out.

[Gray222]

Damnit! why did I do it for free!!! Send me some free stuff now olight!:cool:

Shill!

:rolleyes:

[blues]

My only experience with olight so far has been with the diminutive single AAA light, the i3s EOS. It's been a great little pocket companion for a year or two. Takes up virtually no space and weighs next to nothing. Not a tactical light but a nicely made, well thought out, and thought of light. And for under $20 it was a no brainer. I have no personal knowledge of the alleged "dark side" of olight's business practices.

[mrozowjj]

For the money the best EDC light for general purpose use is probably the Zebralight SC63w. It puts out an absurd amount of light and is smaller than some older AA lights.

I find the switch on the Olights to be kind of crappy and prone to accidental presses. In general the tint of their light is very blue which is for me at least very offputting.

If you must have a tailswitch I'd look at Armytek or an Eagletac DX30LC2 with the Armytek tactical models being the preferred for hard use because they have a much higher impact resistance rating.



Looks like a nice light. Impressive output for a small light. I'm not a fan of the side button but I have never tried one. Doesn't seem like it would pair with a pistol very well.

Is there a good USA made light that is price competitive to this or say the FourSevens Quark line?

No. Everything that I am aware of in the sub $100 price point is made in China.

[BobLoblaw]

No. Everything that I am aware of in the sub $100 price point is made in China.

Streamlight is American-made, durable, and well below $100. Tiny, high-lumen lights have shitty run times and their output drop off is abrupt. Unless you have girl jeans pockets, what's the allure of these little Chinese chode lights?

[NH Shooter]

As a card carrying member of FA (Flashoholics Anonymous) and owning an array of lights I'll offer the following;

For normal EDC any of the Chinese lights mentioned do a good job. There are models that put out a lot of light in a small package, which makes them easy to have on your person all the time. I routinely carry a (now discontinued) Foursevens Quark that puts out 780 lumens in turbo mode running on a single 14500 Li-ion battery (AA size). This model is no longer available due to a patent infringement lawsuit by Surefire. I have a few of these lights and they have all been trouble free. However, the construction of these lights - especially the switches and electronics - are not up to the standards of Surefire, much less Malkoff.

If you need a physically rugged light that can take a lot of abuse, Malkoff (https://malkoff-devices.myshopify.com/) is IMO in a class of its own. The electronics are fully potted and the entire light is built like a tank. Compared to any of the Asian lights, they exude quality. Though they do not have the "over clocked" lumen levels of the Asian lights, if I could only carry one brand it would be Malkoff.

Surefire obviously makes a superb light as well and I own several, including their PR1 (http://www.surefire.com/p1r-b-peacekeeper.html). Well built, great performance and certainly a light you could bet your life on.

FYI, most of the Streamlight products are made in China, some of them simply assembled in the U.S.A. using Chinese parts. I carry a PolyTac (http://www.streamlight.com/en/products/detail/index/polytac) in my car for emergency use and it fills that role perfectly. This model can also run on a 16650 Li-ion battery.

For EDC, it's hard to beat the less expensive Chinese lights. They put out a lot of light and are easy to carry. If it is lost or fails, no major loss. But for more serious use (including WMLs), I would stick with something like Surefire, Malkoff and Elzetta.

[cjb1911]

Streamlight is American-made, durable, and well below $100. Tiny, high-lumen lights have shitty run times and their output drop off is abrupt. Unless you have girl jeans pockets, what's the allure of these little Chinese chode lights?

I've had a very good experience so far with my chinese lights, the two olights have great run time. I use the S1R every day and charge it maybe once a month. I do think the lumen ratings are kinda crazy, when I compare the S1R(900) to my protac 1L(110 lumen), it does not seem that much brighter if at all. I don't see light manufactures as mutually exclusive; owning a couple chinese won't keep my from owning SL as well.

[JDM]

Streamlight is American-made, durable, and well below $100. Tiny, high-lumen lights have shitty run times and their output drop off is abrupt. Unless you have girl jeans pockets, what's the allure of these little Chinese chode lights?

*Some Streamlights are American made

[BobLoblaw]

*Some Streamlights are American made

I usually know better than to trust Wikipedia. Really starting to regret that one dollar donation they so desperately needed.

[Gray222]

*Some Streamlights are American made

*Some sure.

*All tax dollars are US though as many streamlights are berry compliant and have have their HQ in the US.

[mrozowjj]

I've had a very good experience so far with my chinese lights, the two olights have great run time. I use the S1R every day and charge it maybe once a month. I do think the lumen ratings are kinda crazy, when I compare the S1R(900) to my protac 1L(110 lumen), it does not seem that much brighter if at all. I don't see light manufactures as mutually exclusive; owning a couple chinese won't keep my from owning SL as well.

That's because of two things. First thing is lumens are not linear, they are logarithmic. I don't remember the exact math but you need to quadruple the lumens to make it double the brightness as perceived to your eyes. The second thing is candela. Candela is the measure of the intensity of the lumen output in a specific area. The higher candela rating of a flashlight the further it will actually throw the light. Both the Olight S1R and ProTac 1L seem to have about 5000 candela at max so despite the fact that the ProTac maxes at less than 1/3 the lumens that of the Olight they both throw about the same distance so they will both light up a road 60-70 meters. I have a light (Eagletac DX30LC2) with the same 1000 lumens of the S1R but about 20,000 candela and that sucker will light up the goal post of a football field if you were standing under the other goal post.


Streamlight is American-made, durable, and well below $100. Tiny, high-lumen lights have shitty run times and their output drop off is abrupt. Unless you have girl jeans pockets, what's the allure of these little Chinese chode lights?

To the best of my knowledge almost all flashlights are made with Chinese components most if not all are using Chinese LED emitters; especially in the sub $100 range. I know a lot about flashlights but I'm by no means an expert so if you look hard enough you could find something that is actually 100% made in America but I suspect you'd have to look hard. Most companies design and give the specs to a factory in China to make. If you want 100% made in America you can always get an Overready BOSS flashlight but that will set you back $500. My understanding about the BOSS is that they are the Rolex of flashlights.

And as for the Chinese made lights having shitting runtimes the Zebralight SC63W I carry will put out 1000 lumens for 2.2 hours. It will drop down a bit in that time using a thermal regulation circuit that dims the light when it gets too hot and then steps it back to 1000 when it gets cooler again; it runs brighter for longer outside in the cold than indoors. It will output 300 lumens for 4.3 hours; 60 lumens for 33 hours; 10 lumens for 8 days; 3 lumens for 18 days; 0.3 lumens for 2.8 months; 0.05 lumen for 5 months. Some people actually never turn their Zebralight off; they just leave it in that very low 0.05 lumen mode so they can find it in the dark.

[JDM]

*Some sure.

*All tax dollars are US though as many streamlights are berry compliant and have have their HQ in the US.

Huh?

[Gray222]

Huh?

http://www.streamlight.com/contact-us

Streamlight main HQ is in PA. Olights is in China.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Berry_Amendment - in case people have never heard of it.

[JDM]

http://www.streamlight.com/contact-us

Streamlight main HQ is in PA. Olights is in China.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Berry_Amendment - in case people have never heard of it.

Right.

[NH Shooter]

Look at the product fact sheets on the Streamlight website. The ProTac HL-X for example states made in China.

[BobLoblaw]

[SNIP]0.05 lumen for 5 months. Some people actually never turn their Zebralight off; they just leave it in that very low 0.05 lumen mode so they can find it in the dark.

That is really cool. I have a tritium tube on my key ring for the same reason.

[mrozowjj]

That is really cool. I have a tritium tube on my key ring for the same reason.

The Zebralights have an electronic switch which means it's always draining some battery to monitor the switch for your input. They've engineered the circuits so well that the parasitic drain of the battery is higher than the switch is; which is to say the battery will die from non use quicker than it will because of the draw of the switch.

[JDM]

I like Streamlight. They make good lights and I own several.

FWIW:

16526

16527

ETA: posted too quick and didn't see all the other discussion about where various streamlight products are made. Mea culpa.

Tom, Are you sure that "Made In China" bit is not referring to the packaging?

[blues]

That is really cool. I have a tritium tube on my key ring for the same reason.

I use them on various key rings as well as on my AA Malkoff light which I keep on the nightstand in case I need to get up in the middle of the night without waking the missus or lighting up the dog. The low-low setting on that light is 0.3 lumens, perfect for preserving night vision.

[BobLoblaw]

I use them on various key rings as well as on my AA Malkoff light which I keep on the nightstand in case I need to get up in the middle of the night without waking the missus or lighting up the dog. The low-low setting on that light is 0.3 lumens, perfect for preserving night vision.

I could use definitely use a low power light for that. The low modes on any of mine at night (according to my wife) "could have melted my face off." She likes to flirt with her varying levels of exaggeration.

[Rex G]

I would have to handle one to develop an realistic opinion, but it looks too short, seemingly shorter than the Surefire Back-up, which I find to be at the absolute minimum useful size. (For actual searching/gunfighting*, something the size of the Surefire LX2 is my preferred size.)

I am thinking that the little hieroglyphics are indicating it is drop-safe at 1.5 meters. I would prefer a bit higher. A margin of safety beats a specification that says a drop from my shoulder height is the limit.

I am wondering how one gets to the desired output mode. I hate working my way through menus, or through a series of button-pushes. I like the simplicity of a bit of pressure for a low out-put, and then a bit more pressure for a high output. If there is a menu, can I select one preferred mode, to be the default out-put at the first push of the button?

I tend to break pocket clips, on knives and lights; I am a perfect storm of clumsiness and kinetic energy. I wonder about the clip on this one, though nothing short of a personal long-term trial will prove much of anything.

I prefer the presence of a lanyard attachment, preferably low-profile.

All else being equal, "Made in China" makes it very easy to just say "no," and just move along. (This is not racial prejudice on my part; some of the nicest neighbors living in my block are Asians, and, of course, I understand that Made-in-USA does not necessarily mean high-quality.)

*I work night-shift big-city mega-PD police patrol, so use lights regularly, and hard. This does not mean I am any kind of heroic expert, just a guy who appreciates hard-use lights.

[blues]

This does not mean I am any kind of heroic expert, just a guy who appreciates hard-use lights.

Malkoff. Spendy but an ironclad warranty from great people who stand behind their products in Enterprise, AL.

[Rex G]

Malkoff. Spendy but an ironclad warranty from great people who stand behind their products in Enterprise, AL.

Thanks. I seem to remember considering Malkoff heads or conversions in the past, probably after I dropped a Surefire from roof level while descending a ladder.

[blues]

Thanks. I seem to remember considering Malkoff heads or conversions in the past, probably after I dropped a Surefire from roof level while descending a ladder.

I have a Malkoff drop-in in my Surefire 6z...and their Scout head on my E2e. Other than that, I have four or five of their own lights and all, and I mean all, are excellent. No regrets despite the coin dropped on 'em.

[That Guy]

Mind you, I don't actually have any experience with the S1R. But I do own an earlier, 500 lumen version of the same light - or at least similar. This one is called the S10 baton (and don't ask me why...).


I would have to handle one to develop an realistic opinion, but it looks too short, seemingly shorter than the Surefire Back-up, which I find to be at the absolute minimum useful size. (For actual searching/gunfighting*, something the size of the Surefire LX2 is my preferred size.)

If you're thinking about holding this light like you would most normal flashlights, in a sort of an ice pick grip, forget it. My S10 measures out to be 2.75".


I am wondering how one gets to the desired output mode. I hate working my way through menus, or through a series of button-pushes. I like the simplicity of a bit of pressure for a low out-put, and then a bit more pressure for a high output. If there is a menu, can I select one preferred mode, to be the default out-put at the first push of the button?

My S10 remembers the last mode it was on, so a short press of the button brings constant on in which ever mode you have selected. A longer press turns the light on in moonlight mode, and further long presses bump up the power one step at a time (low - medium - high). Double-tap on the button when the light is off turns it on in high mode. Double-tap on the button when the light is on turns on the strobe mode (why the hell does this thing even have a "tactical strobe"?). I think there was some way to get an SOS strobe pattern, too, but I can't remember what it is now. There is no momentary-on mode, and like I mentioned earlier there is some sealant or whatever around the reflector that glows in the dark, especially once you've had the light on high.

For a strictly utility light, I actually really like the user interface - especially since in order to get a tiny bit of light, you don't have to nuke your nightvision. But obviously, the S10 is really not well suited for any sort of tactical application.


I tend to break pocket clips, on knives and lights; I am a perfect storm of clumsiness and kinetic energy. I wonder about the clip on this one, though nothing short of a personal long-term trial will prove much of anything.

Well, I've pretty much only used my light around the house, for pretty light duty, and I broke mine... So no, not the sturdiest of clips.


I prefer the presence of a lanyard attachment, preferably low-profile.

My S10 actually does have one of those.

[Gray222]

Just to point out now a days if you don't have or have not considered a streamlight hl usb you are short changing yourself


I love mine.

[Rex G]

Mind you, I don't actually have any experience with the S1R. But I do own an earlier, 500 lumen version of the same light - or at least similar. This one is called the S10 baton (and don't ask me why...).



If you're thinking about holding this light like you would most normal flashlights, in a sort of an ice pick grip, forget it. My S10 measures out to be 2.75".



My S10 remembers the last mode it was on, so a short press of the button brings constant on in which ever mode you have selected. A longer press turns the light on in moonlight mode, and further long presses bump up the power one step at a time (low - medium - high). Double-tap on the button when the light is off turns it on in high mode. Double-tap on the button when the light is on turns on the strobe mode (why the hell does this thing even have a "tactical strobe"?). I think there was some way to get an SOS strobe pattern, too, but I can't remember what it is now. There is no momentary-on mode, and like I mentioned earlier there is some sealant or whatever around the reflector that glows in the dark, especially once you've had the light on high.

For a strictly utility light, I actually really like the user interface - especially since in order to get a tiny bit of light, you don't have to nuke your nightvision. But obviously, the S10 is really not well suited for any sort of tactical application.



Well, I've pretty much only used my light around the house, for pretty light duty, and I broke mine... So no, not the sturdiest of clips.



My S10 actually does have one of those.

Thanks. I use several gripping methods, depending upon the size of the light, and the circumstances. With the tiny Surefire Back-Up, I generally default to an ice-pick-ish grip. I prefer a light that lets me use my several variants of the cigar/syringe/Rogers grip. My favorite, for my hands, is the Surefire LX2. I wish it had not been discontinued, and will be need to be more careful not to lose the ones I have. (I have two of the LX2, for certain, and have managed to lose or misplace two of them, which I hope to find.)

[mrozowjj]

Just to point out now a days if you don't have or have not considered a streamlight hl usb you are short changing yourself


I love mine.

I will admit I haven't looked much at Streamlights but I checked that one out and it's only rated at 1m of drop. That's not so good for a $100 light that is supposed to be "tactical"

[Gray222]

I will admit I haven't looked much at Streamlights but I checked that one out and it's only rated at 1m of drop. That's not so good for a $100 light that is supposed to be "tactical"

So what's a good drop rating?

Do you make a regular habit of dropping flashlights from rooftops?

Another good example of people not understanding what practical application vs specs really means.

I think my duty stinger DS HL led is 1m drop tested and I've done things to that light no normal use would see in ten years. Still works no issues. Only 1m drop rating. Must be a fluke right?

[mrozowjj]

So what's a good drop rating?

Do you make a regular habit of dropping flashlights from rooftops?

Another good example of people not understanding what practical application vs specs really means.

I think my duty stinger DS HL led is 1m drop tested and I've done things to that light no normal use would see in ten years. Still works no issues. Only 1m drop rating. Must be a fluke right?

No I don't really make a habit of dropping lights in general. I carry a light that hasn't even been drop tested to my knowledge and it doesn't bother me at all. I honestly don't know what is a good drop rating I just know 1m seems low for a "tactical" light in that price range; I've seen lights with 10m drop ratings for about that price. It's an ANSI FL-1 spec with specific guide lines. It carries only as much weight as you'd like to give it.

[StraitR]

Tried one of the up and coming brands about seven years ago, Fenix I think, and it died within six months. Didn't bother sending it back, just tossed it. Flashlights, of all things, are one thing that I've never bothered chasing the better mousetrap. Surefire X300's, Fury, Mini-Scouts, E1B & EB1, and a pair of Maratac AA's continue to give me good, reliable service..

[BobLoblaw]

Tried one of the up and coming brands about seven years ago, Fenix I think, and it died within six months. Didn't bother sending it back, just tossed it. Flashlights, of all things, are one thing that I've never bothered chasing the better mousetrap. Surefire X300's, Fury, Mini-Scouts, E1B & EB1, and a pair of Maratac AA's continue to give me good, reliable service..

The step up to 500 lumens was a pretty big one but based on your list, I wouldn't bother for a long time either.

[schüler]

I have no use for multi-mode outputs in EDC or tac lights. I use same tail cap switch interface, Furys and ProTac 1AAs. ProTacs have 10-tap set for hi/off only. Lost an E1B in a foot pursuit, never found it and didn't like the hi/lo/off modes anyway.

I bought a Chinese JetBeam M1X + cell extender from the first shipment, I think 2009. I used it on evening/night shift for about 3 years, excellent fit in ASP breakaway holster. Only Olight made a comparable power model, Surefire was years later. Only game in town.

Awesome with window tint on traffic stops, coming from day bright to dark building, search 100k capacity football stadium seating from one spot, illum woods across fields and length of a creek, etc. Wasn't too heavy to Harries. Even used a pair of the plastic VTAC 1" light mounts inline on a railed carbine one night. Sweet.

Bought a spare tail switch as I suspected that would be a weak point. Well, that M1X is still going strong on the original switch. I think the brightness is down 20% from original though.

Chinese headlamps...

I work in a physical security field now, everything from programming to commercial construction. The Zebralight HC63W quoted earlier is my hands down favorite, especially with diffuser. But expensive if lost or stolen. I'm on #3 right now and it stays in my running Kit Bag with Eneloops. The warm color temp is great for night running, greatly preferred to cold/blue lights.

For work I use JetBeam H10As on my hard hat. Infinite output adjustability is a great feature (same as Zebra). Up/down angle is simple friction fit in silicone holder, easy to get light right where you want it.
Remove it from headband and tail stand with the horizontal beam. Magnetic tail cap is nice. So's the price. Only use lithium batts due to temp extremes.

I work on ladders and cause lights to fall all the time, anywhere from 3-10' average. Have yet to kill any of the above lights, but I did kill a AA battery with a drop... weird.

[Qaz98]

I've been going through my EDC light options - GoingGear has a great youtube channel, in which he has a large library of reviews of every EDC light out there. (EDC knives, too.)

I recently have used a Surefire Titanium Plus. Single AAA battery - 300 lumens for one hour - pretty impressive. It also has a 15L and 75L mode. It's not the easiest for one hand manipulation, because you have to rotate the head to change settings, but it's tiny and weighs nothing. It's also pricey at $90. I've also ordered a Fenix LD12, to get a single AA option, and a tailcap interface. I got it a good price at Banggood for $36 free shipping ($50 otherwise).

Carrying an EDC light has made me less beholden to marrying the perfect WML to my guns.

[rd62]

I added a Streamlight Protac 1L-1AA to my Amazon cart along with a few other items a couple of months ago. I'd never carried a EDC light previously but this one quickly filled that role. It's small enough to be unobtrusive in the pocket along with my other EDC items but powerful enough to be useful and the low setting is more than ample for most general use. The pocket clip allows for bezel up or down carry and has had up wonderfully so far. The option to run a CR123 battery for maximum power but refuel with a common AA in a pinch is a big plus in my book too. I've found it on par quality wise with my Surefires and a better value. I'm pleased enough to be considering adding a few more.