The final phase

[LittleLebowski]

of coming to terms with gun lube reality. Not sure what oil I'm going to go with when all of my gun oil samples run out, prolly Mobil 1.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HZJFE0/ref=sr_ph_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494174496&sr=sr-1&keywords=lubriplate+105

https://www.lubriplate.com/Lubriplate/files/5c/5ce8bb99-a4eb-41ac-8b32-a02af3f2ab89_120_320.jpg

[RevolverRob]

My non-grease choice:

https://www.amazon.com/WD-40-300014-Specialist-Resistant-Lubricant/dp/B0083V8K0U/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1494175101&sr=8-4&keywords=Silicone+Spray

My grease choice:

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80345-White-Lithium-Grease/dp/B000HBNV58/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1494175138&sr=8-4&keywords=Lithium+Grease

Available at Auto Parts, Home Improvement Stores, or via Amazon (just click the link at the top of the page "Shop at Amazon"!).

[blues]

Lots of folks seem to prefer the motor oil. Makes sense. When I run out of G96, Break-Free and my Slip2000 EWL samples I'll go back to:

Super Lube Synthetic Oil (https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-51004-Synthetic-Viscosity/dp/B000UKUHXK/ref=pd_bxgy_328_img_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000UKUHXK&pd_rd_r=XMMX81B66K33XS1ZR4P3&pd_rd_w=RPRPq&pd_rd_wg=a3vOx&psc=1&refRID=XMMX81B66K33XS1ZR4P3)

Super Lube Synthetic Grease (https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-21030-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B01N5IYUDN/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494175131&sr=8-1&keywords=super+lube+grease)

Both are inexpensive and excellent products in my experience and can be used around the household and property as well as on your firearms. (There are many happy reviews from gun owners on amazon.)

16383

16382

[orionz06]

After talking with Aray, who is certified to actually speak to the matter... I'll not use a grease. Amsoil has a new lube out that works well, as does any lube that doesn't burn off instantly. I can see why folks used grease though, and it does work, but the drawbacks aren't really worth it for lubrication that isn't quantifiably better.

[blues]

After talking with Aray, who is certified to actually speak to the matter... I'll not use a grease. Amsoil has a new lube out that works well, as does any lube that doesn't burn off instantly. I can see why folks used grease though, and it does work, but the drawbacks aren't really worth it for lubrication that isn't quantifiably better.

I only use it very sparingly in a couple spots on the AR, (and that only occasionally), not on my pistols. But it is in the arsenal which is why I listed it.

[LittleLebowski]

I'm planning on using oil in gas guns and grease in my Glocks. Also oil for the suppressed .22 pistols and M&P 15/22.

[blues]

I'm planning on using oil in gas guns and grease in my Glocks. Also oil for the suppressed .22 pistols and M&P 15/22.

Just on the rails of the Glock or on the barrel and slide as well?

[LittleLebowski]

Just on the rails of the Glock or on the barrel and slide as well?

I do the rails, the trigger points, and the barrel. Just look for wear spots, apply accordingly. I'm curious to see if the grease works well when I get my pistol can finally.

[11B10]

Lots of folks seem to prefer the motor oil. Makes sense. When I run out of G96, Break-Free and my Slip2000 EWL samples I'll go back to:

Super Lube Synthetic Oil (https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-51004-Synthetic-Viscosity/dp/B000UKUHXK/ref=pd_bxgy_328_img_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000UKUHXK&pd_rd_r=XMMX81B66K33XS1ZR4P3&pd_rd_w=RPRPq&pd_rd_wg=a3vOx&psc=1&refRID=XMMX81B66K33XS1ZR4P3)

Super Lube Synthetic Grease (https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-21030-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B01N5IYUDN/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494175131&sr=8-1&keywords=super+lube+grease)

Both are inexpensive and excellent products in my experience and can be used around the household and property as well as on your firearms. (There are many happy reviews from gun owners on amazon.)

16383

16382



EXCUSE ME - did you just say G96??? At last, someone other than me admitting they've used it. I stumbled upon G96 while standing in the checkout line at Bass Pro. That was 5+ years ago and I'm still using it. The only other lube I use is the Lucas blue that came with my Sig P320. I use that on the slide rails. What I really like about G96 is it actually makes the gun LOOK better. I've not seen any breakdowns - anywhere on the guns I've used it on: My Glock G30S, the SIG P320, and now, what I'm calling my "Grail gun," my H&KP30SK. I'm aware there are many great guns cleaners and lubes - I see no reason for me to switch. YMMcertainlyV.

[OnionsAndDragons]

After talking with Aray, who is certified to actually speak to the matter... I'll not use a grease. Amsoil has a new lube out that works well, as does any lube that doesn't burn off instantly. I can see why folks used grease though, and it does work, but the drawbacks aren't really worth it for lubrication that isn't quantifiably better.

I'm interested in hearing more on this.

I use grease on the rails of my metal frame SIGs as that is the armorer recommendation.

I also use a lightweight grease on the LEM internals of my HK pistols.

Everything else gets Lucas or Mobil pretty much.

Am I doing it wrong?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[blues]

EXCUSE ME - did you just say G96??? At last, someone other than me admitting they've used it. I stumbled upon G96 while standing in the checkout line at Bass Pro. That was 5+ years ago and I'm still using it. The only other lube I use is the Lucas blue that came with my Sig P320. I use that on the slide rails. What I really like about G96 is it actually makes the gun LOOK better. I've not seen any breakdowns - anywhere on the guns I've used it on: My Glock G30S, the SIG P320, and now, what I'm calling my "Grail gun," my H&KP30SK. I'm aware there are many great guns cleaners and lubes - I see no reason for me to switch. YMMcertainlyV.

I'll see ya and I'll raise ya. My can is at least 15 years old. (Was issued to me by one of our range officers.)

I got topped, however, when I spoke to the owner of the company (http://www.g96.com/about-us/) a year or two ago to ask about whether it was still viable or if I should upgrade to their current milspec product.

Told me he's been using product that was still good after 40 years. Said I can buy another can when I finish this one. (If I ever do.) Didn't try to sell me anything and we had a nice long talk about NY, NJ and law enforcement. What a great guy and also took time to discuss the properties of the new product vs. the traditional.

I have never been disappointed in G96 but there have been one or two occasions when I needed to use Hoppe's No. 9 solvent on a stubborn section.

Edited to add: Rock River Arms buys G96 by the barrel and is apparently what they endorse for their firearms.

[orionz06]

I'm interested in hearing more on this.

I use grease on the rails of my metal frame SIGs as that is the armorer recommendation.

I also use a lightweight grease on the LEM internals of my HK pistols.

Everything else gets Lucas or Mobil pretty much.

Am I doing it wrong?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Short answer before Aray chimes in... And I know he's not going to want to because so many people get fucktarded over it but maybe the repeated tags will encourage him...

Grease is a lubricant oil, to be brief, with some form of a thickener. Once the oil is gone the thickener soap remains.

Grease needs entirely removed before new grease can be added, oil can be added continually.

Grease cannot flow to where it is needed, oil can. Grease applied to the slide rails will be wiped away from where it is needed and will not flow back.

[OnionsAndDragons]

That makes sense.

I may still use a dab of grease on my LEM bits going forward, but I always blow in a bit of spray oil into the FCS parts between detail strips to make sure nothing gets stuck up.

I will look into finding a higher viscosity oil to use on the metal frame rails in the future.

If Aray does chime in, I would love to hear a good rec for a high viscosity oil.

ETA: I could understand the hesitancy to wade into this again as some folks can get pretty stuck on one thing regarding the lube issue, which I don't get. I just want to know what is closest to optimal that I can reasonably maintain.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[blues]

With all the snakes around these parts, (meaning where I live, not the forum), I think I'll just start squeezing and bottling my own snake oil.

I honestly think that lubrication is something we overthink and that used properly and when and where required we'd probably nary notice the difference.

I don't notice any difference with the esteemed and hyped EWL over Super Lube or other good quality synthetic like the ones in my earlier post.
(But I also clean and relube my firearms after each range session. Not necessary but it's a habit I developed from day one and have kept to for the past 35 years or so.)

[Malamute]

I don't take as nice of care of my guns as many, though I also haven't shot bazillions of rounds without lube or cleaning. In my casual abuse and neglect, pretty much everything Ive used has worked at least OK. Ive gone a year to two between real cleanings on the 4" 29 when spending most of my time hanging out in the hills, and about that for the 94 Winchester. I rarely carry cases and cases of ammo with me, so that aspect of extra-high round count lube durability isn't as high on my list. I like the nicer stuff (slip 2000 ewl is as fancy as Ive gotten), but am not going to get too concerned if I need lube and its not available as long as I can get some sort of lube. A coupe times that's been pulling the dipstick from whatever vehicle is handy.

[orionz06]

I honestly think that lubrication is something we overthink and that used properly and when and where required we'd probably nary notice the difference.

I don't notice any difference with the esteemed and hyped EWL over Super Lube or other good quality synthetic like the ones in my earlier post.
(But I also clean and relube my firearms after each range session. Not necessary but it's a habit I developed from day one and have kept to for the past 35 years or so.)

The lubrication demands of firearms are rather low. The lube more or less needs to be there. Remoil, for example, fails as it will burn off in direct sunlight. An oil that doesn't burn off instantly at AR bolt temps will likely be all one needs. The oil/grease thing is interesting but I got my head cleared on that one.

[critter]

The lubrication demands of firearms are rather low. The lube more or less needs to be there. Remoil, for example, fails as it will burn off in direct sunlight. An oil that doesn't burn off instantly at AR bolt temps will likely be all one needs. The oil/grease thing is interesting but I got my head cleared on that one.

Now there's something I didn't have a clue about. Thanks for mentioning it.

[blues]

The lubrication demands of firearms are rather low. The lube more or less needs to be there. Remoil, for example, fails as it will burn off in direct sunlight. An oil that doesn't burn off instantly at AR bolt temps will likely be all one needs. The oil/grease thing is interesting but I got my head cleared on that one.

Totally agree. The one thing I did, (and I had Super Lube in my home for years before I ever thought about using it on my guns), is check the temperature range on the synthetic oil and grease. It's got plenty of room to spare on the high and low ends of the temperature scale.

Yep, it's not magic.

Oil: -45°F to 450°F (-43°C to 232°C) continuous
-50°F to +500°F (-45°C to 260°C) intermittent


Grease: -45°F to 450°F (-43°C to 232°C) continuous
-50°F to +500°F (-45°C to 260°C) intermittent

And it's non-toxic food grade lubricant made to be safe for use in the industry.

[orionz06]

Now there's something I didn't have a clue about. Thanks for mentioning it.

The aerosol, non teflon type, circa 2008 at least. On a hot AR sitting on a bench it just evaporated. They do make a dry lube that does this on purpose. The stuff I mentioned, in say not hot ass balls weather, remained a liquid just as any light spray oil would.

[Robinson]

of coming to terms with gun lube reality. Not sure what oil I'm going to go with when all of my gun oil samples run out, prolly Mobil 1.

Dude! You started another gun lube thread ???!!!!!!


BTW, Slip2000.

[GuanoLoco]

Dude! You started another gun lube thread ???!!!!!!


BTW, Slip2000.

Ditto, and I've messed with a bunch. 5% high pressure moly grease for a AR sear. EEzox for a protectant.

[txdpd]

And it's non-toxic food grade lubricant made to be safe for use in the industry.

I like superlube grease and Slip 2000 oil. They are good enough, and more importantly don't contain petroleum distillates. I don't think the sky is going to fall with an occasional exposure to petroleum distillates from gun lubes, but zero exposure is possible and reasonably affordable.

[RevolverRob]

The lubrication demands of firearms are rather low.

Exactly.

And that's why just about anything can be used to lubricate a gun.

Unless one is using or leaving guns in extreme temperatures (read: < -20 or > 120 degrees) most anything you have handy will work. I've never tried it, but I'd bet a petroleum/silicone based "marital aid lubricant" would work just fine...

[spinmove_]

I use a high temp wheel bearing grease. Seems to have worked great on any pistol I have and my Mossberg 500. Am I doing it wrong? If so, why? Mobil 1 better?


Sent from mah smertfone using tapathingy

[11B10]

I'll see ya and I'll raise ya. My can is at least 15 years old. (Was issued to me by one of our range officers.)

I got topped, however, when I spoke to the owner of the company (http://www.g96.com/about-us/) a year or two ago to ask about whether it was still viable or if I should upgrade to their current milspec product.

Told me he's been using product that was still good after 40 years. Said I can buy another can when I finish this one. (If I ever do.) Didn't try to sell me anything and we had a nice long talk about NY, NJ and law enforcement. What a great guy and also took time to discuss the properties of the new product vs. the traditional.

I have never been disappointed in G96 but there have been one or two occasions when I needed to use Hoppe's No. 9 solvent on a stubborn section.

Edited to add: Rock River Arms buys G96 by the barrel and is apparently what they endorse for their firearms.


My introduction was while I was in that checkout line. A very grizzled, elderly gent saw the can of G96 in my hand and asked what kind of shooting I do. When I told him, he chuckled and said, "Son, that can will go in the ground with you." I kinda got the idea it might last for awhile.

[LittleLebowski]

Dude! You started another gun lube thread ???!!!!!!


http://media.npr.org/assets/bakertaylor/covers/g/going-clear/9780307700667_custom-651ebcadd1a8c06ca006fbcc3c4fa4c4edfcf933-s300-c85.jpg

[Aray]

orionz06 has done a pretty good job of summarizing, I'll add a few points to ponder.

Pistols just aren't that difficult of a lubrication problem to solve, the speeds, temperatures and pressures just aren't that challenging. Almost any lube will do the slippy slidey part as long as it is in its original chemical and liquid form.

Some issues, depending on the application, for consideration are corrosion inhibition, oxidation, mechanical removal, and evaporation (burn off).

Oxidation is a real issue for food grade lubricants as well as the typical old school gun oils we grew up with. These categories of lubes will generally leave behind a sludge or varnish somewhat depending on the temps at which they oxidize.

Mechanical removal is a big player as pistols are open systems the lube gets pushed around and eventually out of the way. One of the reasons why I don't like grease, on the parts that actually touch, it just gets pushed out, and will not return on its own.

Evaporation is just what it sounds like, the oil just goes away.

It is important to note, that orion was correct, grease is just a lubricant with a binder added, usually a clay or metallic soap. The oil in the grease is just as susceptible to the same problems whether its mixed with a binding agent or not.

All of that being said, most gun lubes are fine. Some just require more cleaning to remove spent lubricant, and/or more frequent reapplication.

I own and use gun specific products from Slip 2000, Weapon Shield, and Amsoil, as well as synthetic engine oil without any concerns.

I'm very leery of any product that contains chlorinated solvents/esters/paraffin (or whatever they advertise it as) due to potential chloride stress corrosion cracking in stainless and carbon steel. Products like Militec, EEzox and some others may contain them, they also may not anymore, do your research.

I hope this helps.

[Robinson]

http://media.npr.org/assets/bakertaylor/covers/g/going-clear/9780307700667_custom-651ebcadd1a8c06ca006fbcc3c4fa4c4edfcf933-s300-c85.jpg

So you're laying waste the dogma of branded gun lubes? The cartel of costly carbine oils? The tyranny of celeb-fuled oil endorsements?

[blues]

So you're laying waste the dogma of branded gun lubes? The cartel of costly carbine oils? The tyranny of celeb-fuled oil endorsements?

http://www.nndb.com/people/736/000029649/sigmund-freud-med.jpg

"Sometimes a lube is just a lube."

[blues]

...as well as synthetic engine oil without any concerns.

Thanks for the info. Do you have a recommendation on the engine oil weight / viscosity?

[Aray]

Thanks for the info. Do you have a recommendation on the engine oil weight / viscosity?

Whatever you use in your car/motorcycle will be fine. It matters little if at all.

[LittleLebowski]

So you're laying waste the dogma of branded gun lubes? The cartel of costly carbine oils? The tyranny of celeb-fuled oil endorsements?

Just. Let. Go.

https://media.giphy.com/media/sbPaLs0eaQHNS/giphy.gif

[MichaelD]

I use nothing but Valvoline High Mileage 20w-50 here. Why? Because it works and I got a quart for free. When I run out I'll likely use synthetic 20w-50.

[Drang]

So, is Aray the Doc Roberts of lubes? (Phrasing?) And, if so, why aren't there any pinned threads...?

[Robinson]

...why aren't there any pinned threads...?

Because when you put lube on sticky threads they tend to come loose.

[LittleLebowski]

So, is Aray the Doc Roberts of lubes? (Phrasing?) And, if so, why aren't there any pinned threads...?


Whatever you use in your car/motorcycle will be fine. It matters little if at all.

[critter]

Anyone know what kind of gun oil the military used back in the late 60's-70's? I still have one plastic green bottle left. Stuff smells good enough to be used as after shave. That was the only oil allowed in the house.

[blues]

This oil and lube obsession is a slippery slope.

[Chuck Haggard]

Exactly.

And that's why just about anything can be used to lubricate a gun.

Unless one is using or leaving guns in extreme temperatures (read: < -20 or > 120 degrees) most anything you have handy will work. I've never tried it, but I'd bet a petroleum/silicone based "marital aid lubricant" would work just fine...

Uncle Pat was famous for many things, one being that he'd use Vagisil on student's ARs when they forgot to lube them and they choked. Short term it worked to get the gun running, and made the point that "what lube?" isn't nearly as important as having lube.

[Chuck Haggard]

One thing I keep hearing, without any solid science being quoted, is that motor oil is "toxic", and many of the gun lubes are now billed as non-toxic, so don't use motor oil....

I've used Mobil1 for years, has always worked great.

My understanding of motor oil and things like carcinogens is that it's USED motor oil that is full of combustion crap....

I worry more about the shit like lead in the primers being off gassed than my lube.....

Am I ignorant/all fucked up/don't know shit?

Let's tag Aray again...

[JTQ]

I'm planning on using oil in gas guns and grease in my Glocks.

Isn't the normal recommendation the opposite - oil for handguns and if you're going to use grease it would be for rifle/carbines. For instance the Wilson Ultima Lube II recommendation on their grease, which is a pourable grease.


Ultima-Lube II is Available in Four Formulations:
Ultima-Lube II Lite Oil - Very low viscosity. Ideal for extreme cold weather use. Recommended Uses: Tightly fitted handguns of minor caliber.

Ultima-Lube II Oil - Thin viscosity penetrates hard to get to areas. Ideal for cold weather use, 10° to 350° F temperature range. Recommended Uses: Tightly fitted handguns of all types.

Ultima-Lube II Universal - All purpose lube for all types of firearms. Stays put under extreme conditions, 40° to 350° F temperature range. Recommended Uses: Service pistols/revolvers and broken-in custom handguns, Long guns of all action types, AR style rifles in the 20° to 50° F temperature range.

Ultima-Lube II Grease - Ideal for heavy wear areas. Stays put under extreme conditions, 40° to 350° F temperature range. Recommended Uses: Full and Semi-Auto rifles and carbines, Optimal in AR style rifles at temperatures above 50° F.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=7&v=x0dGQ3MDN-Y

[orionz06]

One thing I keep hearing, without any solid science being quoted, is that motor oil is "toxic", and many of the gun lubes are now billed as non-toxic, so don't use motor oil....

I've used Mobil1 for years, has always worked great.

My understanding of motor oil and things like carcinogens is that it's USED motor oil that is full of combustion crap....

I worry more about the shit like lead in the primers being off gassed than my lube.....

Am I ignorant/all fucked up/don't know shit?

Let's tag Aray again...

It's funny you bring that up, Chuck. People get all assed up about non-toxic lubes and then shoot AR's that blast the shooter in the face. That awesome smell that clears your sinuses out? That's probably not too good for you, no matter if you've lubed up with Crisco or home churned, grass fed butter.


Isn't the normal recommendation the opposite - oil for handguns and if you're going to use grease it would be for rifle/carbines. For instance the Wilson Ultima Lube II recommendation on their grease, which is a pourable grease.


https://ww w.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=7&v=x0dGQ3MDN-Y

I'd be curious what their suggestions are based on.

[rob_s]

Pat Rogers gave out some Slip 2000 in the first or second class I took from him, maybe 2005? I liked the smell, the lube seemed to work well enough, and the company has always had fantastic customer service and treated me well.

Must like my pistol, rifle, beer, rum, and cigar choices if I know what I like and what works for me, why do I need to monkey with "better"?

[TGS]

I get the choice between a few different lubes at work, and always go for the Slip 2000.

With that being said, like most of you, I have a box of varied lubes that came as promotional, had to buy on the spot when I forgot it, etc. So after work stops giving me free Slip 2000, and after I use up all those various lubes, I'm probably just going to use the old bottle of synthetic motor oil that's been sitting in the back of my car for 10 years.

Why?

Slip 2000 is nice, but I simply haven't observed any detrimental effects on my firearms using any of the popular gun lubes (with the exception of Frog Lube, which turns into a nice gummy glue after a while). Everything seems to work fine, some just need to be applied more often than others.

[LittleLebowski]

Isn't the normal recommendation the opposite - oil for handguns and if you're going to use grease it would be for rifle/carbines. For instance the Wilson Ultima Lube II recommendation on their grease, which is a pourable grease.


I don't know, but to my non-expert eyes, I see that the Glock needs much less lubrication, furthermore the AR needs a lube that can flow around and onto things. I also see the grease staying put pretty well on the Glock, right where I want it. Also, my primary training AR is a 5.45x39mm (http://rationalgun.blogspot.com/2013/01/my-definitive-545x39mm-ar15-article.html) and the Sov surplus ammo while excellent, is filthy and my cleaning regimen is to rinse it in hot water and relube. I think it's possible that the grease might retain some of the corrosive salts I rinse away during cleaning.

[orionz06]

I also see the grease staying put pretty well on the Glock, right where I want it.

If it's staying put it would stand to reason that it's not doing anything as if it were making contact the sliding parts would be moving it around and thinning it out until there was no longer contact. The clearances in the Glock are such that one could jam it full and after the initial cycle still see grease in some spots but not where the contact occurs.

[blues]

If it's staying put it would stand to reason that it's not doing anything as if it were making contact the sliding parts would be moving it around and thinning it out until there was no longer contact. The clearances in the Glock are such that one could jam it full and after the initial cycle still see grease in some spots but not where the contact occurs.

Seems strange that some folks report that they are greasing the "shiny" worn metal to metal contact areas and that the grease is still on the area when they next disassemble the firearm for cleaning. (Unless it's the soap sludge you and Aray mentioned. Not nearly my area of expertise so I'm just wondering aloud.)

[orionz06]

Seems strange that some folks report that they are greasing the "shiny" worn metal to metal contact areas and that the grease is still on the area when they next disassemble the firearm for cleaning. (Unless it's the soap sludge you and Aray mentioned. Not nearly my area of expertise so I'm just wondering aloud.)

This is the part that I kinda got stuck on but working through it I question a few things.

My thoughts were, and discussed over and over, that perhaps the light grease was a good thing over an oil. It was one of those unsupported thoughts that made sense without thinking.

But... Given the generous clearance for the slide where is contact made? Is contact made? Playing around with some parts on a bench sorta has me wondering. That said, oil won't pool up there either so I'd bet prior to particulates being introduced the starting point is the same. Once you shoot the gun and toss primer and power dirt around it's a different story. Looking at how my Shadow 2 was with the factory light grease and how one was with Amsoil oil I greatly prefer the oil as it didn't cake up and what was left was slick. The factory grease was pasty and not as slick. My index finger and thumb aren't calibrated though so it's not a real measurement.

[blues]

Tom, I think with a Glock maybe a good test would be to put some grease on the slide in the area behind the nut securing the front sight. (That area generally calls for one drop of oil / lubricant to be spread for contact with the barrel / hood.)
After firing one should be able to see whether the grease is still present or some semblance of the the grease. No?

[orionz06]

I would imagine once contact was made it would be wiped around and on the second cycle less would be present.



All this said... Also consider that the burnt powder and smoke film will also act as a barrier between metal parts.

[blues]

Screw it. Back to where we were up above. Once I use up the existing stores of G96, Slip2000 / EWL, Break-Free, Super Lube etc, I'll be a big sport and buy myself a bottle of Mobil1 or comparable synthetic 20w50 and call it a day.

(I've got some synthetic blend Bel-Ray 20W50 downstairs that's about 10 years old (opened) but I don't think I'd trust it since it's not totally synthetic and it may be partially oxidized or congealed for lack of a better term.)

So far none of my firearms have fallen apart or failed even when using Hoppe's #9 solvent and that can of light machine oil that came in their cleaning kits.

[spinmove_]

Screw it. Back to where we were up above. Once I use up the existing stores of G96, Slip2000 / EWL, Break-Free, Super Lube etc, I'll be a big sport and buy myself a bottle of Mobil1 or comparable synthetic 20w50 and call it a day.

(I've got some synthetic blend Bel-Ray 20W50 downstairs that's about 10 years old (opened) but I don't think I'd trust it since it's not totally synthetic and it may be partially oxidized or congealed for lack of a better term.)

So far none of my firearms have fallen apart or failed even when using Hoppe's #9 solvent and that can of light machine oil that came in their cleaning kits.

Dude, not using non-toxic, organic, green, vegan, EPA tested and approved, and edible firearms lubricant will most definitely get you killed on AND off the streets...


Sent from mah smertfone using tapathingy

[blues]

Dude, not using non-toxic, organic, green, vegan, EPA tested and approved, and edible firearms lubricant will most definitely get you killed on AND off the streets...


Sent from mah smertfone using tapathingy

In the immortal words of "Charley Waite" from "Open Range":


Well you may not know this, but there's things that gnaw at a man worse than dying.

;)

[Aray]

Uncle Pat was famous for many things, one being that he'd use Vagisil on student's ARs when they forgot to lube them and they choked. Short term it worked to get the gun running, and made the point that "what lube?" isn't nearly as important as having lube.

This is an absolutely reasonable position to take.

[Trukinjp13]

I have been plugging away with a bottle of mpro-7 I think its called? Works good and cleans up good. I do use grease on metal or alloy guns. Metal on metal makes me feel better with grease. I just like to put it on the rails. I think the main thing is just oil the damn thing. Whatever you use make sure it works in your environment.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Aray]

One thing I keep hearing, without any solid science being quoted, is that motor oil is "toxic", and many of the gun lubes are now billed as non-toxic, so don't use motor oil....

I've used Mobil1 for years, has always worked great.

My understanding of motor oil and things like carcinogens is that it's USED motor oil that is full of combustion crap....

I worry more about the shit like lead in the primers being off gassed than my lube.....

Am I ignorant/all fucked up/don't know shit?

Let's tag Aray again...

I've also been interested in this whole toxicity bruhaha, so first I went to the federal code.

16 CFR 260.10 is pretty nebulous about how one would be required to back up a "Non-Toxic" advertising claim.

"A non-toxic claim likely conveys
that a product, package, or service is
non-toxic both for humans and for the
environment generally. Therefore,
marketers making non-toxic claims
should have competent and reliable scientific
evidence that the product,
package, or service is non-toxic for humans
and for the environment or
should clearly and prominently qualify
their claims to avoid deception. "

I haven't really seen many manufacturers qualifying their "claims to avoid deception" well enough for it to mean anything to me.

Let me be clear here, I'm not bagging on any product or group of products, nor am I saying that some product out there marketed as "Non-Toxic" or otherwise is bad for you. I'm just trying to thrash around in the words a bit to help folks think for themselves.

I would be interested to see how the "Non-Toxic" product's median lethal concentration (LC50) and dose (LD50) (oral and dermal) in trout or rats compared to other products that aren't marketed as such. That would be useful information, but without knowing that or the individual constituents in these products, it's pretty much impossible for me to say I know something useful.

As you alluded to Chuck, there is typically a significant amount of heavy metals in an aerosol form around a shooter released by the burn cycle of each cartridge like Lead, Antimony, and Barium. It seems to me that you are right on the money. I'm also more worried about the repeated huffing of heavy metals and other combustion byproducts than any toxicity I may exposed to from my weapons lube.

[jws]

I typically use a light oil for lubricating and have tried grease before. While looking for lubricating options I came across Enos Slide Glide. I have not bought any yet to try but I would be interested in your thoughts on it Aray?

[rob_s]

It occurs to me, reading the "grease vs oil" discussion, that another thing I like about Slip2000 products is the various viscosities they have available between EWL (http://www.slip2000.com/slip2000_ewl.php) and EWL30 (http://www.slip2000.com/slip2000_ewl30.php). Although not being a chemical engineer it may be semantics and the 30 may well be grease or share the same negative qualities of grease.

something else of interest, in going to get those two links, I saw this warning, and realized that I've been doing it wrong all along.
16423

[JTQ]

something else of interest, in going to get those two links, I saw this warning, and realized that I've been doing it wrong all along.

I noticed that with my last SLIP2000 purchase. I can't even remember if my old bottle had one of those red seals in it (it's not in it now), it's been so long.

I do like the new needle tip better than the old screw open tip. The new tip is like the Wilson Ultima Lube II bottles. I can't say whether or not I'll buy more Wilson Ultima Lube II, though I do like it, but their bottle is my favorite. It'll leak if crushed in a range bag, but for dispensing lube, I think it is great. I wish the SLIP2000 bottle was clear like the Wilson bottle. I'll keep the Wilson bottle when empty and put whatever I'm using next in that bottle.

[blues]

I noticed that with my last SLIP2000 purchase. I can't even remember if my old bottle had one of those red seals in it (it's not in it now), it's been so long.

I do like the new needle tip better than the old screw open tip. The new tip is like the Wilson Ultima Lube II bottles. I can't say whether or not I'll buy more Wilson Ultima Lube II, though I do like it, but their bottle is my favorite. It'll leak if crushed in a range bag, but for dispensing lube, I think it is great. I wish the SLIP2000 bottle was clear like the Wilson bottle. I'll keep the Wilson bottle when empty and put whatever I'm using next in that bottle.

I cleaned out a small needle applicator bottle from some Tuf-Glide I had around for years and filled it with Slip 2000 EWL. Makes dispensing a whole lot easier, more precise and less messy by far.

I haven't used my samples of the standard Slip 2000 product yet since it seemed the EWL was the new "it" girl when I received the samples. I'm sure I wouldn't be able to discern any real difference between the products.

[Jim Watson]

As the champion shooter, known as much for the reliability of his racegun as for his marksmanship said when asked what lubricant he used:
"Whatever free sample came in the last match goodie bag."

I have so many odds and ends of lubricants as free samples, drippings out of motor oil cans, and a couple of fad purchases from bygone days, that any lube discussion is academic. I have my lubes. I brush slide rails with light grease and oil the rest.

[blues]

As the champion shooter, known as much for the reliability of his racegun as for his marksmanship said when asked what lubricant he used:
"Whatever free sample came in the last match goodie bag."

I have so many odds and ends of lubricants as free samples, drippings out of motor oil cans, and a couple of fad purchases from bygone days, that any lube discussion is academic. I have my lubes. I brush slide rails with light grease and oil the rest.

Oh, so he didn't realize that one has to worry about the interaction of these various products when applied over one another? He must be some sorta clueless newb. ;)

[JTQ]

...a small needle applicator bottle from some Tuf-Glide ...
That looks like the needle tip applicators Brownell's sells. I have a pack of them with a variety of different lubes. They work great with real thin lubes like BreakFree CLP, but with slightly thicker lubes, even Mobil 1 5w30, they are a little slow.

One other SLIP2000 comment, I had some regular SLIP2000 lube in one of those Brownell's needle tip bottles. I noticed it was getting harder and harder to dispense the lube through the tube. I was beginning to wonder if the SLIP2000 had gone bad. I took the cap off and noticed the rubber gasket inside the cap had begun to disintegrate which was plugging up the needle tip. As I mentioned, I have a few of these bottles with a variety of other lubes, and the bottle with the SLIP2000 is the only one that has had this problem. It could be a bad bottle from Brownell's, or it could be SLIP2000 was incompatible with that rubber gasket. I don't know.

[RJ]

Good thread. Like most noobs, I went through the "ZOMG What Lube is best?!" period my first couple years. I stopped after going through the 'Frog Lube' phase and then the 'FireClean' phase.

I learned a bit more (mostly here on p-f.com) about the shortcomings of paraffin-based and vegetable oil-based lubes, to arrive at Slip 2000. I'm still on the same 4 oz bottle I bought 18 or so months ago. The stuff seems to work.

I found these cool applicator bottles from Gaunt Industries useful in applying it, FWIW:

Gaunt Industries HYPO-490 - Oiler Boiler art bottle- Watercolor & Acrylic Paint Applicator - 1-1/4 Ounce Clear Oval Bottle with 18 Gauge Blunt Needle - Precision Paint Dispenser

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EXPCC9A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_zxCezbPKVDCJD

[blues]

That looks like the needle tip applicators Brownell's sells. I have a pack of them with a variety of different lubes. They work great with real thin lubes like BreakFree CLP, but with slightly thicker lubes, even Mobil 1 5w30, they are a little slow.

One other SLIP2000 comment, I had some regular SLIP2000 lube in one of those Brownell's needle tip bottles. I noticed it was getting harder and harder to dispense the lube through the tube. I was beginning to wonder if the SLIP2000 had gone bad. I took the cap off and noticed the rubber gasket inside the cap had begun to disintegrate which was plugging up the needle tip. As I mentioned, I have a few of these bottles with a variety of other lubes, and the bottle with the SLIP2000 is the only one that has had this problem. It could be a bad bottle from Brownell's, or it could be SLIP2000 was incompatible with that rubber gasket. I don't know.

Despite not having used it yet, I know from my reading that Slip 2000 is a thicker product than the EWL which flows through the needle applicator very similarly to the original Tuf-Glide that was in it as both are quite thin in consistency.

I've noticed on amazon in the past that there are various needle applicators with different gauge needles to accommodate a range of viscosities.

At the rate I'm going through the EWL I have currently, maybe an ounce and a half, it'll be a while before I have to experience sleepless nights over this issue. :p

ETA: Good to know that the unopened squeeze bottle of Break-Free CLP I have on hand will be able to be transferred to and used with the needle applicator when the time comes. That should make life a bit easier as I've read that the bottle and straw basically sucks.

[Robinson]

I do the rails, the trigger points, and the barrel. Just look for wear spots, apply accordingly. I'm curious to see if the grease works well when I get my pistol can finally.

Wait wait wait... YOU are buying a pistol can? Like center fire? Just for fun, or... ???

[JTQ]

...I know from my reading that Slip 2000 is a thicker product than the EWL ...

I've only used the SLIP2000 gun lube, but my understanding was the regular gun lube was thinner than all EWL varieties.


ETA: That should make life a bit easier as I've read that the bottle and straw basically sucks.
BreakFree CLP was the first gun lube I ever bought, since it was the choice of the USAF when I was in. That straw is terrible, which prompted me to search for something better.

[blues]

I've only used the SLIP2000 gun lube, but my understanding was the regular gun lube was thinner than all EWL varieties.


BreakFree CLP was the first gun lube I ever bought, since it was the choice of the USAF when I was in. That straw is terrible, which prompted me to search for something better.

This is from an amazon reviewer:


Question: Is this oil thicker or thinner than the non-EWL Slip 2000 lube?

Answer: I just went and checked in the garage. A little counter intuitive, but the Slip 2000 Gun Lube is actually a little thicker than the Slip 2000 EWL.
I use the EWL for all my rifles and AR's and the Gun Lube for all my pistols. They function flawlessly and look great. Won't burn off hot barrels and bolts. Penetrates and protects really well.

To validate, I just got off the phone with their customer support and they confirmed . So while it provides superior protection, it is also slightly less viscous.

Hope that helps.

[RJ]

This is from an amazon reviewer:



Just to back that up, I just got off the phone with their customer support and they confirmed. So while it provides superior protection, it is slightly less viscous. Hope that helps.

Might a little thicker lube be better for a carry gun (generally vertical for 8+ hours a day)?

[blues]

Might a little thicker lube be better for a carry gun (generally vertical for 8+ hours a day)?

Not according to them, Rich. Their contention is that the EWL fills and bonds with the micro-pores in the metal and is not runny. In other words, it is more apt to stay where you put it. I have noticed that despite it being thin, it doesn't run down the rails of my Glock slide when held vertically. It's ssslllloooowww. So, there may be something to what they allege. And chicks did it...so...Elfin magic, chicks dig it, what else do you need?

I'm sold.

[LittleLebowski]

Wait wait wait... YOU are buying a pistol can? Like center fire? Just for fun, or... ???

"For hunting, self defense, or "other," Mr Lebowski?" "Other." :D

Hansohn Brothers hooked a brother up with an Obsidian (https://hansohnbrothers.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=59_79&product_id=405) when no one else had them a year ago.

[spinmove_]

So, lemme get this straight. I can buy a 4oz bottle of Slip 2000 for $14-$19 on Amazon. Or I can buy a 1qt bottle of Mobil 1 full synthetic 10w-30 for $18.

With ARs, I get that you'd run them pretty wet, but how wet are you really supposed to be running pistols?

Also, still waiting for someone to tell me how this is better than my giant tub of high temp wheel bearing grease that I picked up for <$5. If I'm doing it wrong, I'd like to know.


Sent from mah smertfone using tapathingy

[Robinson]

"For hunting, self defense, or "other," Mr Lebowski?" "Other." :D

Hansohn Brothers hooked a brother up with an Obsidian (https://hansohnbrothers.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=59_79&product_id=405) when no one else had them a year ago.

Cool. Dang, if their info is correct that thing is quiet. Quasi-hearing safe for subsonics even in the short configuration.

[blues]

So, lemme get this straight. I can buy a 4oz bottle of Slip 2000 for $14-$19 on Amazon. Or I can buy a 1qt bottle of Mobil 1 full synthetic 10w-30 for $18.

With ARs, I get that you'd run them pretty wet, but how wet are you really supposed to be running pistols?

Also, still waiting for someone to tell me how this is better than my giant tub of high temp wheel bearing grease that I picked up for <$5. If I'm doing it wrong, I'd like to know.


Sent from mah smertfone using tapathingy

Mobil 1 (and the others mentioned) being so pedestrian lack the panache, elan and joie de vivre of Slip 2000 and the boutique blends. Would you really sacrifice the joy of using the latest and greatest just to save some filthy lucre? I'm shocked, dismayed and somewhat taken aback!

[critter]

Mobil 1 (and the others mentioned) being so pedestrian lack the panache, elan and joie de vivre of Slip 2000 and the boutique blends. Would you really sacrifice the joy of using the latest and greatest just to save some filthy lucre? I'm shocked, dismayed and somewhat taken aback!

And if wearing all black or camo, you'll need this:

En vogue oil system for the modern en vogue operator (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H2V7FE4/ref=pd_luc_rh_sbs_02_04_t_img_lh?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1)

[LittleLebowski]

16425

[JTQ]

So, lemme get this straight. I can buy a 4oz bottle of Slip 2000 for $14-$19 on Amazon. Or I can buy a 1qt bottle of Mobil 1 ...

Regular SLIP2000 gun lube is normally around $10 for a 4 oz bottle.

Considering the economics of gun lubes, a 4 oz bottle is probably good for at least a minimum of 2,000 rounds of ammunition (most likely significantly more). An extra $10 every 2,000 rounds isn't going to make a blip in the shooting budget.

I often like to share this comment from gunsmith Ned Christiansen...


I just tell people get the commercially offered gun lube of your choice that is conveniently packaged for however you use it. In other words, a peanut butter jar and ladle is not going to be very convenient. A squeeze bottle with a pointy tip is pretty convenient.


I often think of that quote when the Ed's Red recommendations inevitably come up. I always wonder where and how folks store those buckets of HAZMAT, and then you have to get it into some sort of dispenser to apply to your gun unless you're using it as a dip bucket.

I just follow Ned's advice. I like CLP's, whoever makes them, they all seem to work pretty well. However, if you're convinced a gun won't work with a commercial gun lube, and will only function with an automotive lube, well then I can see how the performance advantage can be justified over the inconvenience.

Sent from my Smith-Corona using QWERTY.

[blues]

LL called me a retard! I'm tellin'! :p

[orionz06]

Not according to them, Rich. Their contention is that the EWL fills and bonds with the micro-pores in the metal and is not runny. In other words, it is more apt to stay where you put it. I have noticed that despite it being thin, it doesn't run down the rails of my Glock slide when held vertically. It's ssslllloooowww. So, there may be something to what they allege. And chicks did it...so...Elfin magic, chicks dig it, what else do you need?

I'm sold.


Micro-pores? I would have expected better from them.




So, lemme get this straight. I can buy a 4oz bottle of Slip 2000 for $14-$19 on Amazon. Or I can buy a 1qt bottle of Mobil 1 full synthetic 10w-30 for $18.

With ARs, I get that you'd run them pretty wet, but how wet are you really supposed to be running pistols?

Also, still waiting for someone to tell me how this is better than my giant tub of high temp wheel bearing grease that I picked up for <$5. If I'm doing it wrong, I'd like to know.


Sent from mah smertfone using tapathingy

You can keep adding oil, you need to remove all of the old grease before relubing.

Generally with pistols I apply a good bit on the rails from lock back, let it stand for a few seconds then wipe off the outside. I've shot a few different pistols to stoppage and have seen others on the range having stoppages and they've all been fixed with lube from the outside. If by chance the gun is field stripped there are a few extra points that get some love.

[MistWolf]

still waiting for someone to tell me how this is better than my giant tub of high temp wheel bearing grease that I picked up for <$5. If I'm doing it wrong, I'd like to know

Grease, like oil, will pick up dirt & fouling. The advantage of oil is you can simply flush out the old dirty oil with fresh oil. Dirty grease has to be wiped off or purged under pressure, like with a grease gun. It's easier and faster to wash out the gunk if you're using oil.

I've been using Frog Lube to great affect. It's not cheap but I have less of a reaction to it when it gets on my skin. It's done well from hot to cold temperatures, hasn't evaporated or gotten gummy. Until I started doing a lot of shooting with a suppressor. Last time I went out, I noticed the carrier felt gummed up. To be fair, I didn't clean or relube the AR after the last couple of times I took it out and I forgot to bring my bottle of Frog Lube, so I couldn't just relube the carrier and see if that would clear things up. I'll give it another go and if things keep gumming up, I'll be looking for something else.

As far as engine oils being toxic, check out the MSDS. Diesel engine and turbine engine oils have additives that are not good for you. Gas engine oils are a much better choice.

I know as shooters, we're exposed to lead and so on, but I don't want to add to that soup. There are petrochemicals in everyday use that will permanently destroy the fatty tissues in the skin and cause all kinds problems that accumulate with age.

All in all, firearm lube is very simple. I've kept my firearms (including my ARs) running smoothly and reliably for decades with a constant application of Rem Oil and Birchwood Casey's Gun Oil

[LittleLebowski]

LL called me a retard! I'm tellin'! :p

We can smell our own :cool:

[M2CattleCo]

Motor oil is ok if you're the type that cleans guns.

I'm not.

Slip 2000 is the best thing I've found as it doesn't stink, doesn't stain, doesn't dry out, doesn't gum up.

I've been using the same quart for years and will buy more if I live long enough to need it.

[LittleLebowski]

Their contention is that the EWL fills and bonds with the micro-pores in the metal and is not runny.


16426

[LittleLebowski]

Cool. Dang, if their info is correct that thing is quiet. Quasi-hearing safe for subsonics even in the short configuration.

See, I'm 'tarded, but I'm smart enough to listen to people like Hansohn Brothers.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UJtCDSnIzGQ

[MistWolf]

16425

...and a clean wet rifle runs better than a dirty wet rifle. Don't forget the Colt extractor spring

[orionz06]

I've been using Frog Lube to great affect. It's not cheap but I have less of a reaction to it when it gets on my skin. It's done well from hot to cold temperatures, hasn't evaporated or gotten gummy. Until I started doing a lot of shooting with a suppressor. Last time I went out, I noticed the carrier felt gummed up. To be fair, I didn't clean or relube the AR after the last couple of times I took it out and I forgot to bring my bottle of Frog Lube, so I couldn't just relube the carrier and see if that would clear things up. I'll give it another go and if things keep gumming up, I'll be looking for something else.

I've had Froglube stop a few AR's in colder weather (~30-35°F), as have others. Their talk of pores in the metal alone was enough garbage for me to just flat out ignore them though.

[JTQ]

You can keep adding oil, you need to remove all of the old grease before relubing.
The end of this video from FMG Pubs with Dave Anderson, showing adding oil without field stripping is useful

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9eUacqOIAaU

[MistWolf]

I've had Froglube stop a few AR's in colder weather (~30-35°F), as have others. Their talk of pores in the metal alone was enough garbage for me to just flat out ignore them though.

Always take advertising claims with a grain of salt. I think "Micro Pores" is just advert talk to explain that metals do not have perfectly smooth surfaces. There there are always peaks and valleys at the microscopic level even in the most highly polished surfaces. If we conclude everything someone said was snake oil because they got the terms wrong, we'd stop listening to those who talked about "platforms" and "direct impingement ARs".

You never know until you try it for yourself. In the years I've been using Frog Lube, I've never had it gum up from shooting in temps as low as 5 degrees F to temps over 100 degrees F. I've never had it gum up from fine sand. The only two conditions I've had it gum up was when I didn't clean all the factory preservatives from new Colt firearms and shooting suppressed. This isn't to say the experiences of others is wrong. This is to say this has been my experience.

My reason for using Frog Lube is it's friendlier to my skin and clothing than motor oil. Some guys like using a lube mix with ATF in it. I can't stand getting ATF or hydraulic fluid on my skin.

If Frog Lube isn't up to use with a suppressor, I'll be looking for something else. I'm hoping it doesn't have to be motor oil

[spinmove_]

Regular SLIP2000 gun lube is normally around $10 for a 4 oz bottle.

Considering the economics of gun lubes, a 4 oz bottle is probably good for at least a minimum of 2,000 rounds of ammunition (most likely significantly more). An extra $10 every 2,000 rounds isn't going to make a blip in the shooting budget.

I often like to share this comment from gunsmith Ned Christiansen...



I often think of that quote when the Ed's Red recommendations inevitably come up. I always wonder where and how folks store those buckets of HAZMAT, and then you have to get it into some sort of dispenser to apply to your gun unless you're using it as a dip bucket.

I just follow Ned's advice. I like CLP's, whoever makes them, they all seem to work pretty well. However, if you're convinced a gun won't work with a commercial gun lube, and will only function with an automotive lube, well then I can see how the performance advantage can be justified over the inconvenience.

Sent from my Smith-Corona using QWERTY.

So I can buy a quart of full synthetic (which reads to me as non-petroleum based) Mobil 1, buy a squeeze bottle that has a needle applicator, and still come out way ahead. I'm still not seeing the allure of Slip 2000....


Sent from mah smertfone using tapathingy

[spinmove_]

Mobil 1 (and the others mentioned) being so pedestrian lack the panache, elan and joie de vivre of Slip 2000 and the boutique blends. Would you really sacrifice the joy of using the latest and greatest just to save some filthy lucre? I'm shocked, dismayed and somewhat taken aback!

I shoot Glocks. Wouldn't putting a fancy gun lube on blocky Teutonic perfection be like putting a pig in some lingerie?


Sent from mah smertfone using tapathingy

[critter]

The end of this video from FMG Pubs with Dave Anderson, showing adding oil without field stripping is useful

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9eUacqOIAaU

Seems his approach is grease for carry, adding oil (every 200 rnds) for shooting with full cleaning relube every 1000 rounds. Grease for carry does make some sense.

[MistWolf]

I shoot Glocks. Wouldn't putting a fancy gun lube on blocky Teutonic perfection be like putting a pig in some lingerie?

Were you planning on using Uncle Pat's Vagisil on the pig?

[JTQ]

So I can buy a quart of full synthetic (which reads to me as non-petroleum based) Mobil 1, buy a squeeze bottle that has a needle applicator, and still come out way ahead. I'm still not seeing the allure of Slip 2000....

It may not be for you. I'm not trying to convince you SLIP2000 is the way to go, or it is the worlds best product. It works fine, isn't expensive - compared to the other costs of gun ownership, and comes packaged in a handy dispenser. There are lots of other products that will fit that bill just as well.


I shoot Glocks.
Since Glocks are advertised as having a low requirement for lube, and a quart of Mobil 1 may last you a lifetime, or more (chances of you losing the bottle in a move or spilling it are probably more likely than using it up to lube a single pistol for a lifetime of ownership), you'll probably save $20 - $30 over your lifetime by choosing Mobil 1 over some gun specific lube.

If you're an armorer, lubing hundreds of guns on a weekly basis, the cost savings of choosing auto oil over gun oil could make real economic sense. However, the "average Joe" won't notice the cost savings.

[spinmove_]

Were you planning on using Uncle Pat's Vagisil on the pig?

Haven't needed to yet...


Sent from mah smertfone using tapathingy

[farscott]

If I am buying, I get CLPs like G96 or BreakFree. This gets used for long-term storage in the safe. Otherwise, for lube, I just fill an oil can with the remnants of whatever is left in the bottle from an oil change. I use Mobil 1 5W-20 in my vehicles and small engines, so that is my lube of choice. I just cap the mostly depleted bottle, flip it upside down, wait a while, and them fill the oil can.

Motor oil is good at lubrication but poor at corrosion protection. So stuff in the safe in long-term storage gets CLP as it is cheap insurance. A can of G96 lasts me a few years.

[spinmove_]

It may not be for you. I'm not trying to convince you SLIP2000 is the way to go, or it is the worlds best product. It works fine, isn't expensive - compared to the other costs of gun ownership, and comes packaged in a handy dispenser. There are lots of other products that will fit that bill just as well.


Since Glocks are advertised as having a low requirement for lube, and a quart of Mobil 1 may last you a lifetime, or more (chances of you losing the bottle in a move or spilling it are probably more likely than using it up to lube a single pistol for a lifetime of ownership), you'll probably save $20 - $30 over your lifetime by choosing Mobil 1 over some gun specific lube.

If you're an armorer, lubing hundreds of guns on a weekly basis, the cost savings of choosing auto oil over gun oil could make real economic sense. However, the "average Joe" won't notice the cost savings.

Fair enough. I'm just playing Devil's Advocate a little bit due to the nature of the topic. If we're on the case of finding a "lube" that works on damn near anything (pistols, rifles, shotguns) in damn near any weather, can be added to the gun without having to clean it first (emergency application), stays put where it needs to, and isn't being up charged for the "firearm lubricant" moniker, then why wouldn't a person go with that option?

If you've still got other stuff laying around, then cool, use it. But if one HAD to go out and get something right now, why wouldn't you do the Mobil1 full synthetic? Other stuff is safer in direct contact with humans? Other stuff stays put better?


Sent from mah smertfone using tapathingy

[orionz06]

Always take advertising claims with a grain of salt. I think "Micro Pores" is just advert talk to explain that metals do not have perfectly smooth surfaces. There there are always peaks and valleys at the microscopic level even in the most highly polished surfaces. If we conclude everything someone said was snake oil because they got the terms wrong, we'd stop listening to those who talked about "platforms" and "direct impingement ARs".

I guess I just take issue when crap like that is used incorrectly. If we're to assume they know a little about lube it's also safe to assume they know they're wrong. They could likely spin it better without making stuff up.



It may not be for you. I'm not trying to convince you SLIP2000 is the way to go, or it is the worlds best product. It works fine, isn't expensive - compared to the other costs of gun ownership, and comes packaged in a handy dispenser. There are lots of other products that will fit that bill just as well.


Since Glocks are advertised as having a low requirement for lube, and a quart of Mobil 1 may last you a lifetime, or more (chances of you losing the bottle in a move or spilling it are probably more likely than using it up to lube a single pistol for a lifetime of ownership), you'll probably save $20 - $30 over your lifetime by choosing Mobil 1 over some gun specific lube.

If you're an armorer, lubing hundreds of guns on a weekly basis, the cost savings of choosing auto oil over gun oil could make real economic sense. However, the "average Joe" won't notice the cost savings.

I know most arguments I've seen haven't been on the cost front but rather the word "gun" on the label, or lack thereof. People get comically upset because full synthetic motor oil happens to work just fine but isn't their pet firearm lube and they lash out to justify their choice without a means to quantify better.


Fair enough. I'm just playing Devil's Advocate a little bit due to the nature of the topic. If we're on the case of finding a "lube" that works on damn near anything (pistols, rifles, shotguns) in damn near any weather, can be added to the gun without having to clean it first (emergency application), stays put where it needs to, and isn't being up charged for the "firearm lubricant" moniker, then why wouldn't a person go with that option?

If you've still got other stuff laying around, then cool, use it. But if one HAD to go out and get something right now, why wouldn't you do the Mobil1 full synthetic? Other stuff is safer in direct contact with humans? Other stuff stays put better?


Sent from mah smertfone using tapathingy

On paper things might be better. Corrosion protection is a thing though and many of us don't even own guns that can rust without severe neglect.

[spinmove_]

On paper things might be better. Corrosion protection is a thing though many of us don't even own guns that can rust without severe neglect.

That's one aspect I hadn't considered. None of my guns are terribly susceptible to corrosion, especially in my climate, but it's something I could be better at. It's good to be aware that there are plenty of regularly available and inexpensive options at your local auto parts store though.


Sent from mah smertfone using tapathingy

[MistWolf]

I guess I just take issue when crap like that is used incorrectly. If we're to assume they know a little about lube it's also safe to assume they know they're wrong. They could likely spin it better without making stuff up

I agree. An AR isn't direct impingement and firearms are not platforms. But folks who have a lot of knowledge and experience still use those terms (and a few others) incorrectly. Folks with a lot of knowledge and experience create and use advertising catch phrases to sell their products and services.

But to paraphrase, "Buy the Product, Not the Story"

[orionz06]

An AR isn't direct impingement

What'd I miss?

[rob_s]

What'd I miss?

an opportunity for him to act smarter than everyone else? :p

[MistWolf]

It's not being smarter than everyone else to compare an AR to a direct impingement system and see the differences or to look up Stoner's patent, read it and study the drawings. But I suppose we should have that discussion in another thread.

Just keep your micro pores clean with Clearsil to avoid black heads and pimples

P.S. Rob, I think it was you that said "Be your own SME." You also said "Just go shoot the rifle." Based on your advice, decided to look into things for myself instead of just accepting what everyone told me as the truth

[critter]

Being a gun clean/oil OCD freak (cleaning guns all the time whether they actually need it or not), upon further analysis, I've discovered that my single most important criteria for gun oil is the smell.

Some oils crappily stink. For example, Break Free of the 90's had a great smell to it (still have a little left from that era), but somewhere along the line they changed the formula and whatever it is now stinks like hell. Can't use the new stuff regardless of how good it may be. Slip 2000 EWL and G96 both have a decent smell (for oil and grease that is). Tetra grease and oil have a strong odor - can't deal with them. Motor oil smells like, well, motor oil. Gun butter has a cool smell as does this stuff I picked up somewhere called ProShot One Step. I have no idea if any are 'better' than any others. I pretty much grab whatever is closest. I probably have enough "Gun" labeled stuff to last until I'm pushin' up daisies. If I do happen to run out, I'll add some aromatherapy oil to some synthetic and see how that works.

[LittleLebowski]

...and a clean wet rifle runs better than a dirty wet rifle.


How long have you been sitting on this information?!

[PPGMD]

Grease, like oil, will pick up dirt & fouling. The advantage of oil is you can simply flush out the old dirty oil with fresh oil. Dirty grease has to be wiped off or purged under pressure, like with a grease gun. It's easier and faster to wash out the gunk if you're using oil.

I look at grease vs oil as being an interval thing.

Grease on a pistol will easily last 4,000-5,000 rounds or 2 years of sitting between relubrications, while oil might last 1,000-2,000 rounds or 6-12 months of sitting.

Oil takes 2-3 minutes to dump a few drops on it. While grease requires a wipe down taking 5-10 minutes.

Which I use takes into account how often I want to futz with the gun, and if the gun will tolerate grease as some of my guns won't work on the grease that my sponsor provides.

Personally even when I am paying for lube the cost is hardly a factor. Even the most expensive lubes will take at least $10-15k in ammo to use up a fluid ounce. At least at the rate I use it.

[MistWolf]

I look at grease vs oil as being an interval thing.

Grease on a pistol will easily last 4,000-5,000 rounds or 2 years of sitting between relubrications, while oil might last 1,000-2,000 rounds or 6-12 months of sitting.

Oil takes 2-3 minutes to dump a few drops on it. While grease requires a wipe down taking 5-10 minutes.

Which I use takes into account how often I want to futz with the gun, and if the gun will tolerate grease as some of my guns won't work on the grease that my sponsor provides.

Personally even when I am paying for lube the cost is hardly a factor. Even the most expensive lubes will take at least $10-15k in ammo to use up a fluid ounce. At least at the rate I use it.

Good points. I find oil easier to apply and easier to keep clean



How long have you been sitting on this information?!

The key to sounding wise is the timing of the reveal

[RJ]

Not according to them, Rich. Their contention is that the EWL fills and bonds with the micro-pores in the metal and is not runny. In other words, it is more apt to stay where you put it. I have noticed that despite it being thin, it doesn't run down the rails of my Glock slide when held vertically. It's ssslllloooowww. So, there may be something to what they allege. And chicks did it...so...Elfin magic, chicks dig it, what else do you need?

I'm sold.

Hm. Ok, just thought I recall seeing a 'Slip 2000 30w product' for carry use.

Edit: here it is:

https://www.slip2000.com/slip2000_ewl30.php

[Aray]

I look at grease vs oil as being an interval thing.

Grease on a pistol will easily last 4,000-5,000 rounds or 2 years of sitting between relubrications, while oil might last 1,000-2,000 rounds or 6-12 months of sitting.

Oil takes 2-3 minutes to dump a few drops on it. While grease requires a wipe down taking 5-10 minutes.

Which I use takes into account how often I want to futz with the gun, and if the gun will tolerate grease as some of my guns won't work on the grease that my sponsor provides.

Personally even when I am paying for lube the cost is hardly a factor. Even the most expensive lubes will take at least $10-15k in ammo to use up a fluid ounce. At least at the rate I use it.

2 years sounds like a long time interval for changing the grease to me.

If you've ever opened a tub of grease and seen it separated, the liquid on the top is the actual lubricant. That oil that is suspended in the grease is susceptible to evaporation and runoff (once it comes out of suspension) just like regular gun/non-gun oils.

There really is a good bit of discussion and lack of consensus in the lube industry about the shelf life of lubricants. Drew Troyer did an article in Machinery Lubrication magazine about shelf life, the staff there came up with a set of best practice guidelines that gave Lithium Complex Greases a 12 month shelf life and Calcium Complex Greases a 6 month shelf life, in an original sealed container.

[PPGMD]

2 years sounds like a long time interval for changing the grease to me.

If you've ever opened a tub of grease and seen it separated, the liquid on the top is the actual lubricant. That oil that is suspended in the grease is susceptible to evaporation and runoff (once it comes out of suspension) just like regular gun/non-gun oils.

There really is a good bit of discussion and lack of consensus in the lube industry about the shelf life of lubricants. Drew Troyer did an article in Machinery Lubrication magazine about shelf life, the staff there came up with a set of best practice guidelines that gave Lithium Complex Greases a 12 month shelf life and Calcium Complex Greases a 6 month shelf life, in an original sealed container.

Oh I have old school TW25B the first thing you do is mix it back together. :D

The two year number was simply based on personal experience, per my log spreadsheet my primary carbine sat for 2 years without me ever touching it (due to chemo and such preventing me from getting it out to the range). The action was still smooth and worked fine when I shot it for a few hundred rounds. Granted I don't suggest letting it sit that long, I really think you should be doing PM on your weapons at least once a year for at least to prevent rusting. But I know that it sit for quite a while with the grade 2 greases I use.

Did they separate those suggestions by NLGI grade? Because I've noticed that separation rates vary greatly by grade. Thin grade 0 greases with separate readily, while thicker grade 2 greases have much slower separation rates. And even among the grades and lithium complex greases there can be huge differences in separation rates.

[Aray]

Oh I have old school TW25B the first thing you do is mix it back together. :D

The two year number was simply based on personal experience, per my log spreadsheet my primary carbine sat for 2 years without me ever touching it (due to chemo and such preventing me from getting it out to the range). The action was still smooth and worked fine when I shot it for a few hundred rounds. Granted I don't suggest letting it sit that long, I really think you should be doing PM on your weapons at least once a year for at least to prevent rusting. But I know that it sit for quite a while with the grade 2 greases I use.

Did they separate those suggestions by NLGI grade? Because I've noticed that separation rates vary greatly by grade. Thin grade 0 greases with separate readily, while thicker grade 2 greases have much slower separation rates. And even among the grades and lithium complex greases there can be huge differences in separation rates.

No, they didn't separate it out. That's one of the issues IMHO, there are so many differences, product to product/grade to grade that it becomes tough to generalize.

[spinmove_]

No, they didn't separate it out. That's one of the issues IMHO, there are so many differences, product to product/grade to grade that it becomes tough to generalize.

Interesting. I was told that there weren't many different types of grease at all. So it really is a case that most companies selling grease of any kind essentially have their own proprietary blend?


Sent from mah smertfone using tapathingy

[orionz06]

It's not being smarter than everyone else to compare an AR to a direct impingement system and see the differences or to look up Stoner's patent, read it and study the drawings. But I suppose we should have that discussion in another thread.


Ahh, that. AR-15 to DI is nearing a semantics difference with a technicality whereas the pores/seasoning claims just aren't true.

[blues]

Ahh, that. AR-15 to DI is nearing a semantics difference with a technicality whereas the pores/seasoning claims just aren't true.

Tom, in fairness I think we may be overreacting to a comment made on the telephone by a customer service rep and not a chemist who was not available at the time of the call.

Sometimes people try to describe things in ways "for lack of a better term" and don't expect something said in a discussion to be held up to the scientific method.

I called to ask about which of their offerings was thicker or thinner, the Slip 2000 or Slip 2000 EWL. She stated that the EWL was a bit thinner than the Slip 2000 the rest was just conversation. Please don't indict the company or its products over a conversation that was not meant as a scientific inquiry.

That's all I'm trying to say.

[orionz06]

Tom, in fairness I think we may be overreacting to a comment made on the telephone by a customer service rep and not a chemist who was not available at the time of the call.

Sometimes people try to describe things in ways "for lack of a better term" and don't expect something said in a discussion to be held up to the scientific method.

I called to ask about which of their offerings was thicker or thinner, the Slip 2000 or Slip 2000 EWL. She stated that the EWL was a bit thinner than the Slip 2000 the rest was just conversation. Please don't indict the company or its products over a conversation that was not meant as a scientific inquiry.

That's all I'm trying to say.

Nah, Froglube had it on their site for a while, they still may.
http://froglube.com/froglube-product-info/froglube-directions/

Their Amazon description has this snippet:
It is a non-toxic substance that dissolves carbon on contact.


It has a heavy specific gravity, which enables it to ‘season’ the metal by absorption deep into the pores. Using FROGLUBE results in a durable dry slick wax-like surface that reduces friction, eliminates fouling, and destroys rust.

Back when it came out somewhere along the way folks were told that using an oven to warm their bolts was a good way to apply the lube to let it soak in...



Seal-1 makes mention of seasoning the firearm as well.

[blues]

Okay...I thought you were referring directly to what the friendly customer support lady said to me yesterday.

(Good thing I didn't ask her about its uses in intimate settings...;))

[critter]

There is only one punishment befitting the crimes committed by the prevaricating Lubrication Industry Marketing Manipulators:


https://youtu.be/87TNFs5__X0?t=1121


sooooooo, what degreasers out there to unbond the pores and unseason the the metal you guys like?

[orionz06]

Okay...I thought you were referring directly to what the friendly customer support lady said to me yesterday.

(Good thing I didn't ask her about its uses in intimate settings...;))

Nah, there's a long history of internet gun lore, and lore that predates the internet, that suggests there are pores in metal that open up and suck in oil. That's not really even what happens with seasoning and cast iron.

[blues]

sooooooo, what degreasers out there to unbond the pores and unseason the the metal you guys like?

I've been using the same (trigger spray) bottle of Formula 88 (http://formula88.com/) for about 15 years or so.

[orionz06]

There is only one punishment befitting the crimes committed by the prevaricating Lubrication Industry Marketing Manipulators:


https://youtu.be/87TNFs5__X0?t=1121


sooooooo, what degreasers out there to unbond the pores and unseason the the metal you guys like?

This would be a good email for those companies. How does one break down such a tremendous bond?

[blues]

Nah, there's a long history of internet gun lore, and lore that predates the internet, that suggests there are pores in metal that open up and suck in oil. That's not really even what happens with seasoning and cast iron.

If you're breeding your own whales in the three rivers just to get fresh authentic whale oil for your cast iron skillets...I think you're taking this whole lube business far too seriously. ;)

[orionz06]

If you're breeding your own whales in the three rivers just to get fresh authentic whale oil for your cast iron skillets...I think you're taking this whole lube business far too seriously. ;)

Have you ever tried to get two whales to screw?








I'm just not a fan of a small but of what is perpetuated. Pores/seasoning near the top of the list, right there with some of the garbage people spew about motor oil.

[blues]

Have you ever tried to get two whales to screw?

https://c402277.ssl.cf1.rackcdn.com/photos/9011/images/story_full_width/HI_232821_Paul_Nicklen_National_Geographic_Stock_W WF_Canada.jpg?1432908393

Nar!

[Erik]

Have you ever tried to get two whales to screw?


Pfft. Have you ever tried to stop them?

[JTQ]

http://dailysnark.com/pic-man-appearing-uf-football-coach-jim-mcelwain-butt-naked-humping-shark-surfaces/

[JTQ]

Tom, in fairness I think we may be overreacting to a comment made on the telephone by a customer service rep and not a chemist who was not available at the time of the call.
I'm a SLIP2000 fan, but they do show this on their website...

http://www.slip2000.com/slip2000_gunlube.php

[Robinson]

Yeah I use the product too, but they should stop using certain language. Grooves <> Pores. Staying in place <> Bonding.

[blues]

Yeah I use the product too, but they should stop using certain language. Grooves <> Pores. Staying in place <> Bonding.

Well...at least I didn't mistakenly misquote or mislead...whether their claim is true or not is way outside my lane of expertise. I do at least know that steel is not a "smooth" surface. The rest...well...:confused:


Slip 2000 Lubricant contains an exclusive metal treatment designed to control friction, which reduces heat, which eliminates excessive wear. It penetrates the micropores of the metal surfaces bonding itself to the metal allowing lubrication from within the metal itself.

[Robinson]

Well...at least I didn't mistakenly misquote or mislead...whether their claim is true or not is way outside my lane of expertise. I do at least know that steel is not a "smooth" surface. The rest...well...:confused:

Hey, no issues. My comment was aimed squarely at the company, not anyone posting here.

[blues]

Hey, no issues. My comment was aimed squarely at the company, not anyone posting here.

I understood that, bud, I just worded my reply inadequately.

[LittleLebowski]

What's a good container to buy for small amounts of Mobil-1, say range bag size?

[BobLoblaw]

What's a good container to buy for small amounts of Mobil-1, say range bag size?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001HT2GXC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[orionz06]

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001HT2GXC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Exact link I was gonna come post.

[MichaelD]

What's a good container to buy for small amounts of Mobil-1, say range bag size?
I use eye dropper bottles for the purpose and they work quite well: https://www.amazon.com/Leegoal-Dropper-Bottle-Plastic-Liquid/dp/B016O9ON08?th=1

[Hambo]

I liked the smell

That's my only criteria for lube.

[Kyle Reese]

of coming to terms with gun lube reality. Not sure what oil I'm going to go with when all of my gun oil samples run out, prolly Mobil 1.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HZJFE0/ref=sr_ph_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494174496&sr=sr-1&keywords=lubriplate+105

https://www.lubriplate.com/Lubriplate/files/5c/5ce8bb99-a4eb-41ac-8b32-a02af3f2ab89_120_320.jpg
Got mine on Friday. Last lubricant I'll ever buy.

Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk

[blues]

Got mine on Friday. Last lubricant I'll ever buy.



And we're gonna hold you to it, F! ;)

[JTQ]

What's a good container to buy for small amounts of Mobil-1, say range bag size?
I use the three pack needle tip bottles from Brownell's. Flow isn't very good with thicker lubes (even 5w-30 is pretty thick compared to BreakFree), but they are tough little bottles.

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/shop-accessories-supplies/liquid-squeeze-bottles/needle-oiler-bottles-prod44434.aspx

With my first bottle of Wilson Ultima Lube II, I fell in love with the bottle they use, and searched for a similar bottle in the craft/hobby stores for all my spare motor oils, and gun oils that came in crappy bottles. I ran into these Darice bottles at Joann Fabrics craft shopping for my kids. They will probably leak if crushed in your range bag, but they are cheap and you can cut the tip to any level of flow you want. I have a variety of different lubes in these little bottles.

https://www.darice.com/store/details/catalog/wholesale-basics-crafters-toolbox/1162-16

SLIP 2000 recently changed their twist top bottle, to a bottle similar to Wilson's (though not clear like Wilson's). They offer them as empty's. I bought one of one of the 1 oz bottles, and a 4 oz pump sprayer.

http://www.slip2000.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=S&Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=CONTAINERS

A side note about the Brownell's bottles, and SLIP 2000. I ran into some flow problems with one of the Brownell's bottles I had filled with SLIP 2000. I was beginning to think the SLIP had gone bad and was solidifying. I opened the bottle only to find the SLIP had disintegrated the rubber gasket on the bottle. I was kind of surprised. I hadn't had this problem with either Mobil 1 or BreakFree CLP that I also had in those bottles.

[JTQ]

SLIP 2000 ... a 4 oz pump sprayer.
Also note, while these clear bottles also come with a pointy tip, they are not squeezable, like the regular SLIP 2000 bottles, they are hard plastic.

[LittleLebowski]

Right now, I'm reusing Lucas Gun Oil bottles and at the price for the ones suggested so far, the Lucas Gun oil bottles with oil to use at $3.99 (https://www.amazon.com/Lucas-Oil-10006-Gun-oz/dp/B000IG20RM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496761390&sr=8-1&keywords=lucas+gun+oil) is cheaper.

[critter]

Right now, I'm reusing Lucas Gun Oil bottles and at the price for the ones suggested so far, the Lucas Gun oil bottles with oil to use at $3.99 (https://www.amazon.com/Lucas-Oil-10006-Gun-oz/dp/B000IG20RM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496761390&sr=8-1&keywords=lucas+gun+oil) is cheaper.


Can't really beat that. And if you need a 'needle' for a specific task you can always grab a plastic hummingbird feeder syringe for next to nothing.

For the range bag, I carry this:
Titan Tools Precision Oiler (https://www.amazon.com/Titan-Tools-15200-Precision-Oiler/dp/B002LYQALQ/ref=pd_bxgy_21_img_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B002LYQALQ&pd_rd_r=281VBN9E06MBEKV6VJV3&pd_rd_w=cHJVa&pd_rd_wg=lHF5q&psc=1&refRID=281VBN9E06MBEKV6VJV3)

Not cheap, but I got fed up with plastic bags, leaking, crushing, etc. inside the bag, or getting it all over my hands during shooting. Definitely worth it to me and perfectly fit for purpose. This one hasn't leaked yet.

[critter]

I've been using the same (trigger spray) bottle of Formula 88 (http://formula88.com/) for about 15 years or so.

I'm determined to unseason the insuperable seasoning and break the unbreakably bonded bonds... obviously no half-assed attempt will do. :cool:

http://www.davemansworld.com/hostpics/form88.jpg

[blues]

I'm determined to unseason the insuperable seasoning and break the unbreakably bonded bonds... obviously no half-assed attempt will do. :cool:

http://www.davemansworld.com/hostpics/form88.jpg

Damn, son, that's more than four lifetimes worth! (Well, for me.) I'm still on quart number one. :cool:

Let me know if you like it.

[GuanoLoco]

I like a little Visene bottle with a o-ring around the neck and a snap clip on the o-ring. You can find them in drug stores and maybe grovery stores.

Slip2000 EWL is a lot less nasty and toxic than motor oil and a big bottle lasts a stupidly long time.

A little bottle of 99.9% isopropyl alcohol (Amazon) is handy for cleaning and even disinfecting.

17294

[ffhounddog]

I just use CLP. I'm old school but I'm ridged Army Officer who never sees the light.

[GuanoLoco]

Can't really beat that. And if you need a 'needle' for a specific task you can always grab a plastic hummingbird feeder syringe for next to nothing.

For the range bag, I carry this:
Titan Tools Precision Oiler (https://www.amazon.com/Titan-Tools-15200-Precision-Oiler/dp/B002LYQALQ/ref=pd_bxgy_21_img_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B002LYQALQ&pd_rd_r=281VBN9E06MBEKV6VJV3&pd_rd_w=cHJVa&pd_rd_wg=lHF5q&psc=1&refRID=281VBN9E06MBEKV6VJV3)

Not cheap, but I got fed up with plastic bags, leaking, crushing, etc. inside the bag, or getting it all over my hands during shooting. Definitely worth it to me and perfectly fit for purpose. This one hasn't leaked yet.

I have one. Seemed promising but somehow leaked.

[critter]

I have one. Seemed promising but somehow leaked.

Where is the leak in yours? I coat any o-rings and threads with silicon grease on any containers and reapply on refill. Perhaps that's why mine hasn't leaked. Or maybe I'm still in the lucky phase. So far so good anyway.


Damn, son, that's more than four lifetimes worth! (Well, for me.) I'm still on quart number one. :cool:

Let me know if you like it.

LoL, I thought that may raise an eyebrow or three. The order was supposed to be two gallons (also for trial in a large ultrasonic bath with non-gun parts). Order was placed on the day of your posting of the link. They goofed the order and didn't ship. I had to call them. Then when they did ship, USPS destroyed it and whatever was left of it would up at some unrecoverable mail center. So, I guess they doubled the total on the replacement as a goodwill gesture. If your bottle ever runs low, at least you know where to get a free refill. ;)

[GuanoLoco]

Where is the leak in yours? I coat any o-rings and threads with silicon grease on any containers and reapply on refill. Perhaps that's why mine hasn't leaked. Or maybe I'm still in the lucky phase. So far so good anyway.


I think it is in the needle part. Silicone grease is a good idea. Visene bottle was less messy and more reliable.

[OlongJohnson]

I received this package from China Post yesterday:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NOLPFOS

The bottles are basically the same as this one-for-$5.98, except they are ten-for-$3.26 and one ounce, instead of 1/2 ounce:

https://www.amazon.com/Racers-Edge-2-Ounce-Bottle-Needle/dp/B001HT2GXC/

Recommended. Give one to a friend, duplicate your lube setups in the garage, on the indoor A/C-having work bench, and in a range bag.

[blues]

I received this package from China Post yesterday:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NOLPFOS

The bottles are basically the same as this one-for-$5.98, except they are ten-for-$3.26 and one ounce, instead of 1/2 ounce:

https://www.amazon.com/Racers-Edge-2-Ounce-Bottle-Needle/dp/B001HT2GXC/

Recommended. Give one to a friend, duplicate your lube setups in the garage, on the indoor A/C-having work bench, and in a range bag.

How long did it take to get?

[OlongJohnson]

Three weeks.

[Dark Star Gear]

I received this package from China Post yesterday:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NOLPFOS

The bottles are basically the same as this one-for-$5.98, except they are ten-for-$3.26 and one ounce, instead of 1/2 ounce:

https://www.amazon.com/Racers-Edge-2-Ounce-Bottle-Needle/dp/B001HT2GXC/

Recommended. Give one to a friend, duplicate your lube setups in the garage, on the indoor A/C-having work bench, and in a range bag.

We'd made the joke offline given how silly folks are about lube that we should include bottles like this in holster orders and make a joke about flavor of the week designer lubes. Those prices may actually make it feasible.

Aray

[OlongJohnson]

Send them a message to ask about pricing for 1000. Or just search online for them in the import broker world.

Like here: http://www.dhgate.com/wholesale/needle+tip+bottles.html

[blues]

Three weeks.

Thank you. I may have to order some to keep on hand.

[Aray]

We'd made the joke offline given how silly folks are about lube that we should include bottles like this in holster orders and make a joke about flavor of the week designer lubes. Those prices may actually make it feasible.

Aray

I can source those cheep cheep if you want to do that.