Running the Sig 226

[Doc_Glock]

I have a basic question about running a 226. I acquired a 226 Legion sort of by accident and have enjoyed learning about it. I find the trigger, both DA and SA impressive and the gun itself impressively big and heavy.

I find I am unable to activate the decocker with my dominant thumb while holding a firing grip. It is just too far away. I can loosen my grip, rotate the gun a bit and reach it, or I can simply activate it with my non dominant hand, similar to how I have seen many folks drop the slide with a 1911.

Is there a preferred method for this? If I need to I guess I can look into reduced size grips, but I would prefer not to.

Are there any other pearls of wisdom out there for running the 226 from a gun handling perspective?

[TheNewbie]

I have a CZ-P07 but have shot DA/SA sigs.

The way I do it is to use my off thumb to decock the gun, unless I just have to use my shooting hand.

[LJP]

Started my journey with a Sig P220. Always decocked it using my support thumb. Works well. FWIW, I have the E2 grips on my Sig now. Big improvement.


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[DG12]

Same here with a 229, I use the support hand thumb (E2 grips).

[Rex G]

Shoot with the left hand, of course. Decocker SIGs are built for people in their right mind. ;)

I will concede that using the left trigger finger to decock is not a smooth move, either, but the right support fingers can usually perform the task, as decocking is not something normally done when under pressure.

This also solves the "problem" of the right thumb keeping the slide lock from doing its job.

Using the left trigger finger to operate the magazine release is child's play.

Seriously, when my right hand's age/wear/tear-related ailments finally make my right hand useless, I may buy myself a nice, new 9mm P226. I almost did so, already, and have a nice lefty Milt Sparks VM II, waiting for that day.

I have plenty of trigger time with .40 P229 pistols, from 2004-2015, and a .45 ACP old-school "European-style" P220 from 1991-1993. I generally preferred DAK for right-hand shooting, and DA/SA for lefty shooting. What is a weak hand, anyway? (When I switched to mostly 9mm, for the lesser recoil on my aging joints, I also switched to the Glock platform, but I am missing shooting SIGs.)

[LSP552]

I have a basic question about running a 226. I acquired a 226 Legion sort of by accident and have enjoyed learning about it. I find the trigger, both DA and SA impressive and the gun itself impressively big and heavy.

I find I am unable to activate the decocker with my dominant thumb while holding a firing grip. It is just too far away. I can loosen my grip, rotate the gun a bit and reach it, or I can simply activate it with my non dominant hand, similar to how I have seen many folks drop the slide with a 1911.

Is there a preferred method for this? If I need to I guess I can look into reduced size grips, but I would prefer not to.

Are there any other pearls of wisdom out there for running the 226 from a gun handling perspective?

For a right hand user, the decocker is best worked with the left thumb. Generally speaking, this can be done without disturbing your grip much at all. Many people, me included, prefer to rest the right thumb over the left thumb than against the frame (It's not a Glock..:D). This is still a thumb forward grip, its just resting on the left thumb and not against the frame. Riding against the frame will often prevent the slide from locking back on an empty magazine.

The P226 is my favorite pistol and the one I carried more than any other for work. IMO, It's one of the easiest gun to shoot well. There are several threads on running DA/SA guns in general and a recent thread on using the SIG decocker.

[BehindBlueI's]

I can reach the decocker with my strong hand thumb, but it rubs the slide release uncomfortably to do so. I use my left hand thumb to decock. Just cock the wrist a bit and the joint of the thumb hits it naturally.

There's a lot of cock in this post.

[Jason M]

Back when.... All cadets/new cops , with less than big mitts, were shown how to use the support hand thumb to decock. The same technique was applied to 2nd and 3rd gen S&W pistol's slide stops.

[txdpd]

Carried a DA/SA P226 for years. Right hand shooter and decocked with strong thumb. Breaking your firing grip to decock is a non issue, if that one second process endangers your safety, it's ok to put it off until later. Whether you need to or not, decocking should be part of your reholstering process and that's not always feasible if you turn it into a two hand proposition.

Most officers that decock with their off hand forget to do it as soon as they have to do something with their off hand, like hold a flashlight or talk on the radio.

[TheNewbie]

Carried a DA/SA P226 for years. Right hand shooter and decocked with strong thumb. Breaking your firing grip to decock is a non issue, if that one second process endangers your safety, it's ok to put it off until later. Whether you need to or not, decocking should be part of your reholstering process and that's not always feasible if you turn it into a two hand proposition.

Most officers that decock with their off hand forget to do it as soon as they have to do something with their off hand, like hold a flashlight or talk on the radio.

That's a good point I have not thought of. Though it's not an issue I have ran it too, it's food for thought.

[taadski]

I'm a month away from starting my 18th year carrying a Sig on duty. Time flies. :p They've really grown to feel like home over the years. Good pistols.

I have large/extra-large hands and I still have to rock the Sigs in my hand just a touch to decock the pistol with my primary hand thumb. I have to do the same movement to hit the mag release definitively too. The 'flip' movement is virtually identical for both. Unless you're going to switch the mag release to the other side and activate it with your primary index finger (some do this very successfully), you're going to have to learn the 'flip' for hitting the mag release anyway. It can be very well engrained for both tasks, IME.

For smaller handed folks, we simply teach using the support side thumb, like everyone has already mentioned. It's really a non-issue.

[TheNewbie]

Where is the best deal on P226 9mm to be found?

[Sero Sed Serio]

I have a basic question about running a 226. I acquired a 226 Legion sort of by accident and have enjoyed learning about it. I find the trigger, both DA and SA impressive and the gun itself impressively big and heavy.

I find I am unable to activate the decocker with my dominant thumb while holding a firing grip. It is just too far away. I can loosen my grip, rotate the gun a bit and reach it, or I can simply activate it with my non dominant hand, similar to how I have seen many folks drop the slide with a 1911.

Is there a preferred method for this? If I need to I guess I can look into reduced size grips, but I would prefer not to.

Are there any other pearls of wisdom out there for running the 226 from a gun handling perspective?

Put me down in the decock with my left thumb camp. However, to make sure I'm keeping one-handed shooting covered, I practice both dry and live fire SHO, and flip the gun and use my right hand when I do that. When I shoot WHO I use my trigger finger, but I'll be the first to admit that my WHO shooting has been neglected as of late.


Where is the best deal on P226 9mm to be found?

If I were going with a new manufacture gun, I'd go with a MK25. Typically anything under 900 is good--this one has a buy it now for $825: http://www.gunbroker.com/item/635909844. I know nothing about the seller and have no connection.

If you're okay with a long extractor, CDNN has E2s available for $769: https://www.cdnnsports.com/sig-sauer-p226-e2-9mm.html?___SID=U. I personally would pay the extra to get the short extractor, and the MK25 may come with a machined locking block as opposed to an MIM locking block (I know that machined phosphate locking blocks are currently available as a factory part), but I'm guessing that, like a lot of things SIG, it depends on what is available in the bins when they go to put guns together.

I almost never see CPO P226 9mms, and new/lightly used older 9mm P226s tend to command a premium. Carbon slide W. German beaters can be had for the mid-500s, and if you're dedicated to your search, you might come across German frame guns with the one piece milled stainless slide (I've bought two NIB in the last year, an 05 and an 07). However, you'll likely pay for the privilege, and unless you're a collector, you probably won't do too much better (if at all) than shopping around for good prices on new manufacture guns.

[JHC]

I'm a month away from starting my 18th year carrying a Sig on duty. Time flies. :p They've really grown to feel like home over the years. Good pistols.

I have large/extra-large hands and I still have to rock the Sigs in my hand just a touch to decock the pistol with my primary hand thumb. I have to do the same movement to hit the mag release definitively too. The 'flip' movement is virtually identical for both. Unless you're going to switch the mag release to the other side and activate it with your primary index finger (some do this very successfully), you're going to have to learn the 'flip' for hitting the mag release anyway. It can be very well engrained for both tasks, IME.

For smaller handed folks, we simply teach using the support side thumb, like everyone has already mentioned. It's really a non-issue.

Thanks. I don't see any downside to shifting my strong hand grip a bit to use the thumb on the decocker. I've longish fingers and it was a considerable shift but not a big deal.

[Sauer Koch]

Thanks. I don't see any downside to shifting my strong hand grip a bit to use the thumb on the decocker. I've longish fingers and it was a considerable shift but not a big deal.

Same for me. The more you use the gun, the more you learn how to manipulate (move) it for these types of things. From slide lock, I insert a mag, (left side up) and for some reason, I instinctively rotate the gun to (left side down) hit the slide release, then stretch out my right thumb just a bit, so it will reach the decocker, and then I'm in DA, ready to go.

My wife shoots this gun quite well, but with her small hands, she uses the thumb of the support hand to decock the gun; same on her M11 A-1, when running a full mag of DA shots. I think the controls on Sig P-series, are the best out there, they just seem to be in the most logical place. I understand that many people who have shot 1911's most of their life hate them, due to the slide release position being where the TS is on a 1911, which is easy to understand.

[LSP552]

Decocking with the strong side (right) thumb isn't a problem at all. As others have said, a slight shift in grip is not an issue. My default method is the support thumb based on my preference to decock coming back to a ready position and that generally means I have both hands on the gun. For me, if I have both hands on the gun, left thumb works a bit better.

[NEPAKevin]

I almost never see CPO P226 9mms, and new/lightly used older 9mm P226s tend to command a premium.

Another vendor who often has good prices on used and CPO SIGs is Summit Gun Broker (http://summitgunbroker.com) Bought a couple of guns from him and had no problems and was courteous and professional. Also, it's not a bad idea for anyone running SIGs to be on Top Gun Supply (http://www.topgunsupply.com/)'s mailing list.

[psalms144.1]

I ran a Sig for several years while working for two "Sig Only" agencies, and I always found the minimal grip compromise to access either the magazine release or slide stop was worth the effort/time over trying to hit anything with my idiotic left thumb. So, if that's what works for you, I think you'd be OK, especially since you're aware of what you're doing, and not flagging the muzzle around like crazy or totally changing your grip while conducting these motions.

[LSP552]

I ran a Sig for several years while working for two "Sig Only" agencies, and I always found the minimal grip compromise to access either the magazine release or slide stop was worth the effort/time over trying to hit anything with my idiotic left thumb. So, if that's what works for you, I think you'd be OK, especially since you're aware of what you're doing, and not flagging the muzzle around like crazy or totally changing your grip while conducting these motions.

So many "instructors" think that one way is the "only way" for everyone. I wish more people understood that the end result is to find what works best for the individual providing the basic rules stay in place.

Once again, thanks for contributing a very valid point.

[pastaslinger]

Try a regular decocker lever instead of the 224 ones they put on the Legion

[taadski]

Where is the best deal on P226 9mm to be found?


I almost never see CPO P226 9mms, and new/lightly used older 9mm P226s tend to command a premium. Carbon slide W. German beaters can be had for the mid-500s, and if you're dedicated to your search, you might come across German frame guns with the one piece milled stainless slide (I've bought two NIB in the last year, an 05 and an 07). However, you'll likely pay for the privilege, and unless you're a collector, you probably won't do too much better (if at all) than shopping around for good prices on new manufacture guns.


I've had pretty good luck over the years finding good condition trade-in or second hand P series pistols. I lurk over on Sig forum some and they often link vendors with caches of trade-ins and the like. I've purchased 4 or 5 of these in recent years. I think the most I paid was $465.

A couple of tips:

-Look for DAK models as they're often quite a bit cheaper. The parts to convert them to DA/SA, if you so chose, are readily available and run about $150 or so. There is a contingent of folks around who prefer the Kellerman (DAK) design. I've sold a bunch of "DAK parts kits" and usually at least break even.

-Buy less sought after calibers (.40 or .357 Sig), buy a 9mm conversion barrel then sell the original. Or don't and keep it. But you can generally get them for less than the euro-pellet chambered ones.

Keep an eye on these sites. They stock pre-owned and trade-in Sigs. But they tend to go pretty fast when they become available. A few of them have email notifications for particular listed used models. Take a gander around. There are some in stock at a couple of them now...

Bud’s gun shop

Aim Surplus

Osage County guns

Impact guns

J&G sales

There are more too. Google is your friend. ;)

[BehindBlueI's]

The fire sale on .40 continues.

$440 for P226 police trades: https://gun.deals/product/sig-sauer-p226-40-sw-police-trade-ins-3-mags-43995

$520 for E2 gripped CPOs: https://gun.deals/product/sig-sauer-p226r-cpo-wrail-night-sights-e2-grips-well-others-must-go-519

[LSP552]

The fire sale on .40 continues.

$440 for P226 police trades: https://gun.deals/product/sig-sauer-p226-40-sw-police-trade-ins-3-mags-43995

$520 for E2 gripped CPOs: https://gun.deals/product/sig-sauer-p226r-cpo-wrail-night-sights-e2-grips-well-others-must-go-519

As much as I'm not a .40 fan, I keep being tempted to pickup a used P226 in that flavor. It would be strictly a woods kinda thing.

And I would add Summit Gun Broker to Taadski's list of good places to check for CPO and used SIGs.

[TheNewbie]

The fire sale on .40 continues.

$440 for P226 police trades: https://gun.deals/product/sig-sauer-p226-40-sw-police-trade-ins-3-mags-43995

$520 for E2 gripped CPOs: https://gun.deals/product/sig-sauer-p226r-cpo-wrail-night-sights-e2-grips-well-others-must-go-519


What needs to be done to convert RELIABELY a .40 to 9mm? I imagine it's more than just a barrel swap and mags.

[taadski]

What needs to be done to convert RELIABELY a .40 to 9mm? I imagine it's more than just a barrel swap and mags.


There are a lot of mixed reports. By the book, replacing the barrel with a conversion barrel, 9mm extractor and mags. However there have been reports of folks simply swapping in a factory 9mm barrel (exterior diameter is the same) and using 9mm mags with success. I was suspicious as the barrel hood width on the 9mms is narrower than it is on the .40 barrels.

Ever curious, taadski decided to vet said concept himself: I plopped a newer vintage factory 9mm barrel in a stainless .40 slide (short external extractor) and checked for fit. Seemed good. No noticeable play. Ran a few mags just hand cycling the gun... Seemed fine, fed without issue and extracted well. Finally dipped the toe in the water and put a few minor reloads through it. No issue. Fast forward a couple of months (3) and I'm sitting at about 2400 rounds down the pipe. No malfunctions. Not one. Accuracy has been excellent. Thing runs just like any of its 9mm brothers and sisters.

So, yeah....by the book, put a .40 to 9mm conversion barrel in there, change the extractor and use appropriate mags. :)



t

[TheNewbie]

There are a lot of mixed reports. By the book, replacing the barrel with a conversion barrel, 9mm extractor and mags. However there have been reports of folks simply swapping in a factory 9mm barrel (exterior diameter is the same) and using 9mm mags with success. I was suspicious as the barrel hood width on the 9mms is narrower than it is on the .40 barrels.

Ever curious, taadski decided to vet said concept himself: I plopped a newer vintage factory 9mm barrel in a stainless .40 slide (short external extractor) and checked for fit. Seemed good. No noticeable play. Ran a few mags just hand cycling the gun... Seemed fine, fed without issue and extracted well. Finally dipped the toe in the water and put a few minor reloads through it. No issue. Fast forward a couple of months (3) and I'm sitting at about 2400 rounds down the pipe. No malfunctions. Not one. Accuracy has been excellent. Thing runs just like any of its 9mm brothers and sisters.

So, yeah....by the book, put a .40 to 9mm conversion barrel in there, change the extractor and use appropriate mags. :)



t


Thanks for the report.

The p226 trade ins look very tempting. I'm a fan of the no rail guns.

[Sigfan26]

Thanks for the report.

The p226 trade ins look very tempting. I'm a fan of the no rail guns.

Make sure it's a representative picture of the gun. Lipsey's showed a picture of a non railed gun, but shipped me a railed pistol.


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[txdpd]

What needs to be done to convert RELIABELY a .40 to 9mm? I imagine it's more than just a barrel swap and mags.

Sell it and buy a 9mm.

I've had the opposite experience of taadski. I tried converting a .357 to 9mm: barrel, ejector, and mags, and had pistol that was really good for clearing malfunctions.

Most agencies aren't going to dump reliable, working, good condition .40 Sig pistols. Most agencies aren't going to dump reliable, working, good condition 9mm Sig pistols either. Just something to think to keep in mid before buying a CPO .40 Sig pistol, and why there are so many cheap CPO .40's out there and not that many 9mm's.

[Sigfan26]

What needs to be done to convert RELIABELY a .40 to 9mm? I imagine it's more than just a barrel swap and mags.
https://www.sigsauer.com/store/caliber-x-change-kit-p226-9mm-blk.html
Sell the .40 slide assembly for $250 and drop another $150 on this. Not a great investment, though.


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[BehindBlueI's]

What needs to be done to convert RELIABELY a .40 to 9mm? I imagine it's more than just a barrel swap and mags.

Barsto makes a conversion barrel, and as already posted Sig makes conversion kits with a complete slide/barrel assembly.

I've kicked around getting one or the other for my P226 when we transition to 9mm. I just haven't decided which. Or just buy a complete 9mm.

[MGW]

Quantico Tactical has 226 Legacy models listed on their website. I knew there were 229 legacy models with short extractors. What's the difference between a standard 226 and the legacy model?

[gtmtnbiker98]

Sell it and buy a 9mm.

I've had the opposite experience of taadski. I tried converting a .357 to 9mm: barrel, ejector, and mags, and had pistol that was really good for clearing malfunctions.

Most agencies aren't going to dump reliable, working, good condition .40 Sig pistols. Most agencies aren't going to dump reliable, working, good condition 9mm Sig pistols either. Just something to think to keep in mid before buying a CPO .40 Sig pistol, and why there are so many cheap CPO .40's out there and not that many 9mm's.The hell they will. Agencies typically don't care as to the overall condition of any of their sidearms. When they go to change sidearms, they'll accept $380 for a beater just the same as they will accept $380 for an un-issued pistol. Ask me how I know.

[taadski]

Quantico Tactical has 226 Legacy models listed on their website. I knew there were 229 legacy models with short extractors. What's the difference between a standard 226 and the legacy model?


Gregg,

I'm not super savvy with all the new model nomenclature, but the legacy slide refers to a stainless, short external extractor slide without the "elite" version's front cocking serrations. It's actually the version I prefer. Although I have had good personal experience with a couple newer long extractor slides too.

[taadski]

Sell it and buy a 9mm.

I've had the opposite experience of taadski. I tried converting a .357 to 9mm: barrel, ejector, and mags, and had pistol that was really good for clearing malfunctions.

txdpd, I'd be interested in hearing the details of your experiment. Specifically, was it a conversion barrel or a stock caliber one? I've had to hand fit a couple Barsto conversion barrels (.40 to 9) that were sold as "drop in" versions. With a little TLC, however, they've both turned into uber reliable pistols. Tack drivers too.



The hell they will. Agencies typically don't care as to the overall condition of any of their sidearms. When they go to change sidearms, they'll accept $380 for a beater just the same as they will accept $380 for an un-issued pistol. Ask me how I know.

That matches my experience also. I own a slew of pistols that were purchased as police trade-ins. Some were cosmetically a bit rough (and several not) but the adage of "carried a lot...shot a little" has held pretty true in my dabbling. It's a great means of picking up really inexpensive good shooters IME.

[jwperry]

There are a lot of mixed reports. By the book, replacing the barrel with a conversion barrel, 9mm extractor and mags. However there have been reports of folks simply swapping in a factory 9mm barrel (exterior diameter is the same) and using 9mm mags with success. I was suspicious as the barrel hood width on the 9mms is narrower than it is on the .40 barrels.

Ever curious, taadski decided to vet said concept himself: I plopped a newer vintage factory 9mm barrel in a stainless .40 slide (short external extractor) and checked for fit. Seemed good. No noticeable play. Ran a few mags just hand cycling the gun... Seemed fine, fed without issue and extracted well. Finally dipped the toe in the water and put a few minor reloads through it. No issue. Fast forward a couple of months (3) and I'm sitting at about 2400 rounds down the pipe. No malfunctions. Not one. Accuracy has been excellent. Thing runs just like any of its 9mm brothers and sisters.

So, yeah....by the book, put a .40 to 9mm conversion barrel in there, change the extractor and use appropriate mags. :)



t

This is very interesting; I've never taken a detailed look at the .40 P226, so I did not know that they slides were the same between calibers. I have a spare Mk25 barrel, maybe it is time for me to invest in another P226 to play with...

[jeep45238]

This is very interesting; I've never taken a detailed look at the .40 P226, so I did not know that they slides were the same between calibers. I have a spare Mk25 barrel, maybe it is time for me to invest in another P226 to play with...

The breech face should be wider on the .40/.357 models - but by having.a barrel OD the same, and with the newer universal locking system, every other dimension is locked into place while cycling. The width of the hood doesn't lock things up, it's the length - so in theory, if that is correct and fitted properly, the pistol should function just fine.

[MGW]

That matches my experience also. I own a slew of pistols that were purchased as police trade-ins. Some were cosmetically a bit rough (and several not) but the adage of "carried a lot...shot a little" has held pretty true in my dabbling. It's a great means of picking up really inexpensive good shooters IME.

There's a police trade in no rail 9mm 226 available locally for less than $500. Anything specifically I should look out for? I havent stopped to look at it yet. It looks like it has seen plenty of carry but all I know right now.

They also have a railed model, E2 grips, nights, box for basically the same price. Looks like it has seen very little use. Except it's in .40. I would need to buy a barrel and magazines as I don't shoot .40. Which direction would you go?

[LSP552]

There's a police trade in no rail 9mm 226 available locally for less than $500. Anything specifically I should look out for? I havent stopped to look at it yet. It looks like it has seen plenty of carry but all I know right now.

They also have a railed model, E2 grips, nights, box for basically the same price. Looks like it has seen very little use. Except it's in .40. I would need to buy a barrel and magazines as I don't shoot .40. Which direction would you go?

Depending on condition, I'd probably go with the no rail as long as it's the milled stainless slide. Just not a .40 fan.

[Sero Sed Serio]

There's a police trade in no rail 9mm 226 available locally for less than $500. Anything specifically I should look out for? I havent stopped to look at it yet. It looks like it has seen plenty of carry but all I know right now.

They also have a railed model, E2 grips, nights, box for basically the same price. Looks like it has seen very little use. Except it's in .40. I would need to buy a barrel and magazines as I don't shoot .40. Which direction would you go?

https://grayguns.com/guide-to-sig-sauer-pistol-inspection/

Does the 9mm have a one-piece milled stainless slide with external extractor, or a folded carbon slide with a removable breech block? The older carbon guns are desirable for some because of the way they balance and cycle, but are less durable and more prone to rust. It's also getting harder to find spare parts, specifically the internal extractor.

The P226 9mm with a milled stainless slide, but no accessory rail was only produced from the late 90s or early 2000s until around 2005-6, so there are a lot less of them around. I'm still kicking myself for ducking out of a bidding war on one that was unfired last year.

I would be hesitant to buy the .40 if you're just going to switch it to a 9mm--by the time you buy a new barrel and mags, you're getting close to the price of a new gun, just to get a used gun that was spec'd out for a different caliber.

[MGW]

https://grayguns.com/guide-to-sig-sauer-pistol-inspection/

Does the 9mm have a one-piece milled stainless slide with external extractor, or a folded carbon slide with a removable breech block? The older carbon guns are desirable for some because of the way they balance and cycle, but are less durable and more prone to rust. It's also getting harder to find spare parts, specifically the internal extractor.

The P226 9mm with a milled stainless slide, but no accessory rail was only produced from the late 90s or early 2000s until around 2005-6, so there are a lot less of them around. I'm still kicking myself for ducking out of a bidding war on one that was unfired last year.

I would be hesitant to buy the .40 if you're just going to switch it to a 9mm--by the time you buy a new barrel and mags, you're getting close to the price of a new gun, just to get a used gun that was spec'd out for a different caliber.

Thanks for the link. I'll be in there tomorrow after work and take a look. I was trying to do the math on a conversion for the .40 and you're right. Barrel and magazines would put me close to the cost of a new one at IOP prices.

[TheNewbie]

I forgot about the legacy models you can still buy. That is tempting sense it has the short extractor.

[txdpd]

The hell they will. Agencies typically don't care as to the overall condition of any of their sidearms. When they go to change sidearms, they'll accept $380 for a beater just the same as they will accept $380 for an un-issued pistol. Ask me how I know.

I get that and since they don't care about the overall condition of their sidearms, how do you think they got to the point of deciding to trade them in? There are places that will trade in pistols because they hit an imaginary shelf life, but most places have problems few pistols, usually from the officers that bother to go to the range, and replace the entire lot. If a lot of relatively new, good condition .40 caliber LE trade in Sigs are flooding the market, it's probably not because they were reliable and lasted a long time.

The price paid per unit is just an average of the wholesale value of the lot divided by the number of units, that's how that works. A $200 beater and $560 un-issued pistol has the same average value as a $380 beater and $380 un-issued pistol.


txdpd, I'd be interested in hearing the details of your experiment. Specifically, was it a conversion barrel or a stock caliber one? I've had to hand fit a couple Barsto conversion barrels (.40 to 9) that were sold as "drop in" versions. With a little TLC, however, they've both turned into uber reliable pistols. Tack drivers too.


German made, stainless slide, short external extractor, .357 P226, probably made around 2002. First I tried a factory 9mm barrel and had failures to extract. I don't know what caused the extraction issues. Tried a drop-in Barsto barrel (at least it didn't require any fitting) and started having failure to eject issues. I never could get those issues resolved, I think there was just too much wiggle room between the extractor and case mouth. I eventually sold it and bought another 9mm, I broke even on that but was still in the hole $200 on the barrel.

On a side note I tried swapping out top ends with another pistol a 2012ish 9mm. The 357 had a no dot locking block and the pistol that donated the top end had a multi-dot locking block. With the no dot locking block, the slide from the 9mm would hang up about an 1/8" out of battery. When I swapped out the locking block it worked fine.

[taadski]

Thanks for the details. I appreciate it.

Re the trade-ins, I've seen a whole variety of "reasons" for an agency sidearm change; everything from a new chief or division head coming on board and wanting to see something different in the holsters, to caliber preference changes and everything in between. Not necessarily anything to do with the functioning of the pistols in question in A LOT of cases anyway. Of course, YMMV.

[HCM]

While a 9mm barrel may work for some .40 slides in the P226, my understanding is the "right" way to go is a 40-9 conversion barrel as the outside dimensions of the "hood / chamber" portion of the .40/357 barrel is slightly larger than the stock 9mm.

I have a bar-sto 40-9 conversion barrel for the P-229. I've run it in two older (pre 2010) P229's with out issue. It has run with both the 40 recoil spring and the 9mm recoil spring as well as 228, 229-1 and 40/357 229 mags.

I already had the guns as my agency has issued .40 caliber guns (Beretta, HK and most recently SIG) since 1996 so the ability to run 9mm for < $300 was a simply a bonus.

If I wanted a dedicated carry gun I would spring for a SIG caliber conversion kit with an entire slide.

[NEPAKevin]

Not necessarily the cheapest, but the easiest way to switch between 9mm and either 40 or 357 SIG, or to convert to 22LR on the P-series SIGs is to pick up the appropriate Calliber X-change kit (https://www.sigsauer.com/store/parts/conversion-kits.html), which consists of a complete slide assembly, and usually a ten round magazine (8 45acp) so you wind up with a factory configuration. From time to time, SIG puts them on sale and you can sometimes find them cheaper at Top Gun Supply or on Gunbroker, etc.

ETA: You do have to be careful to identify which exact series of frame you have to get the correct slide assembly as there are differences in fit between the older stamped slide frames, the non-railed forged slide (Legacy IIRC) frame, railed frames, etc.

[Greg]

I agree with a wise previous poster to dump the mini 224 controls off of the Legion.

It's a big 9mm, dinky controls don't make it any smaller.