Fast and Friendly Brass is working on an auto drive for the Dillon Xl 650

[LittleLebowski]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bkY5X4A4UOM

#Dillon650 (https://pistol-forum.com/usertag.php?do=list&action=hash&hash=Dillon650)

#Mark7 (https://pistol-forum.com/usertag.php?do=list&action=hash&hash=Mark7)

[Peally]

I feel like if I was in the market for an autodrive I'd just get a 1050.

[CCT125US]

Very nice. Curious as to pricing when they get the BOM put together.

[Sal Picante]

The Mark7 drive for the 650 works well...

Nice to have options, tho.

[taadski]

The Mark7 drive for the 650 works well...


Want....

[LittleLebowski]

Tempting to have an auto drive for the 650 but swaging or at least a swage sensor seems necessary.

[taadski]

Tempting to have an auto drive for the 650 but swaging or at least a swage sensor seems necessary.


Yeah, I'd like to hear more thoughts on that too I guess.

I took the first (admittedly tiny) step and finally bought a MBF for my 650. :). I'm excited to dick around with it.

[GuanoLoco]

Yeah, I'd like to hear more thoughts on that too I guess.

I took the first (admittedly tiny) step and finally bought a MBF for my 650. :). I'm excited to dick around with it.

That's a big step for a 650!

[taadski]

I'm wringing my hands in anticipation! :cool:


I'm trying to decide if I want to lose my powder check die or buy the bits to seat/crimp in a single station. Decisions, decisions...

[jeep45238]

I'm wringing my hands in anticipation! :cool:


I'm trying to decide if I want to lose my powder check die or buy the bits to seat/crimp in a single station. Decisions, decisions...

Loose the powder check. That station is right in front of you when you run the press. Seat/crimp is something that drives me crazy trying to preserve plating/coatings.

[CCT125US]

Got a response on cost..... $2400 with 4 week lead. AYFKM?

[GuanoLoco]

Loose the powder check. That station is right in front of you when you run the press. Seat/crimp is something that drives me crazy trying to preserve plating/coatings.

Agreed. I have never actually used a powder check and I am loading on a 1050. I think I still have one unopened in the bag .

[punkey71]

Tempting to have an auto drive for the 650 but swaging or at least a swage sensor seems necessary.

I'm looking hard at this swagger - http://swageit.com/swage-it-s650-for-small-primer/

Anyone using the Swage-It on a 650?


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[Luke]

Wonder how hard it would be to put one together. That control box is $180ish, electric engine would be $200ish, build the base for next to nothing, few bearings, zirk fittings, little time at a friends house with a mill..

[SeriousStudent]

Wonder how hard it would be to put one together. That control box is $180ish, electric engine would be $200ish, build the base for next to nothing, few bearings, zirk fittings, little time at a friends house with a mill..

Let us know when you start taking orders. I'm not kidding, either. I'd love to have one, but not for $2400.

[GuanoLoco]

A Mark 7 1050 X was around $2500 a year ago. $2400 for analog 650 automation? I'm not seeing it.

[LittleLebowski]

I'm looking hard at this swagger - http://swageit.com/swage-it-s650-for-small-primer/

Anyone using the Swage-It on a 650?


I've got the 550 version if you want to try it.

[LittleLebowski]

Agreed. I have never actually used a powder check and I am loading on a 1050. I think I still have one unopened in the bag .

So if you were a #PoorFag (https://pistol-forum.com/usertag.php?do=list&action=hash&hash=PoorFag) with a 650, you'd buy a MBF (Mr Bullet Feeder) for the empty station on a 650 when not using a powder check?

[CCT125US]

Exactly. I work in the automation industry, and part of my responsibility is sourcing material and collaborating with end users and engineers. This would be too much like my day job.

[punkey71]

I've got the 550 version if you want to try it.

Appreciate the generous offer but my 550 was scooped up by a buddy already.

Does your 550 Swage It experience lead you to believe you'd like the 650 Swage It?


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[mmc45414]

I've got the 550 version if you want to try it.

I also have the 550 version (bought before I had the 650). I didn't love it, I thought it was requiring most of the force because it was pushing a great deal of pilot up into the pocket that needed to be extracted. So I chucked it in my drill press and tweaked it with small files and scotch brite and it requires a lot less force and seems to still accept the primers (I only did a few) OK. But then I tweaked my SuperSwage to be a lot faster and I will probably just use it.

If anybody wants a try/buy on my Swageit please PM me, I am a motivated seller. The punches are available separately if you would want to restore it to the original shape.

[GuanoLoco]

So if you were a #PoorFag (https://pistol-forum.com/usertag.php?do=list&action=hash&hash=PoorFag) with a 650, you'd buy a MBF (Mr Bullet Feeder) for the empty station on a 650 when not using a powder check?

Absolutely. The Dillon Powder Measure has been quite reliable for me - unless foreign matter gets in to the powder causing clogs or the cast aluminum parts crack/break.

[taadski]

I appreciate your guy's perspectives on the automation thing. I've loaded 20k/year the last 4 or 5 years on my stock 650 and it has worked like a charm. Part of my rational buying the bullet feeder was that it'll be compatible with a 1050 if/when I take that step.

I like the concept of the additional insurance of the powder check die, but I've found the Dillon Powder Measure to be exceptionally reliable also. I'll likely experiment with the bullet feeder replacing it and keeping seating/crimping separate, at least initially.

[jeep45238]

I appreciate your guy's perspectives on the automation thing. I've loaded 20k/year the last 4 or 5 years on my stock 650 and it has worked like a charm. Part of my rational buying the bullet feeder was that it'll be compatible with a 1050 if/when I take that step.

I like the concept of the additional insurance of the powder check die, but I've found the Dillon Powder Measure to be exceptionally reliable also. I'll likely experiment with the bullet feeder replacing it and keeping seating/crimping separate, at least initially.

That, and the Frankfort Arsenal primer tube filler have been the best investments outside of moving from a Hornady LNL AP to a Dillon 650XL. Automating the processes that involve orientation saves a huge amount of time.

[taadski]

Well, the MBF arrived this week. Spent a couple hours taking my time installing it and ran 600 or so through it for a match this weekend. Still have some minor tuning to suss out; I'm getting a handful of flipped bullets every 100 rounds or so. But it's a pretty minor inconvenience at this point given how much it streamlines things. I frankly feel like an idiot for having waiting so long to buy one.

"A big step..." indeed.

Also, it's currently taking the place of my powder check die so as to not mess with my seating/crimping process, at this point anyway.



t

[jeep45238]

Well, the MBF arrived this week. Spent a couple hours taking my time installing it and ran 600 or so through it for a match this weekend. Still have some minor tuning to suss out; I'm getting a handful of flipped bullets every 100 rounds or so. But it's a pretty minor inconvenience at this point given how much it streamlines things. I frankly feel like an idiot for having waiting so long to buy one.

"A big step..." indeed.

Also, it's currently taking the place of my powder check die so as to not mess with my seating/crimping process, at this point anyway.



t

I've been taking a flashlight and resting it ontop of the toolhead when reloading, over the hole in the middle. Makes it cake to watch the powder charge - with W231 a double charge is nearly an overflow event, and painfully obvious.

I will say since adding a Prarie Dog powder baffle my charges have been 100% consistent, regardless of if I'm just starting a session/middle, or if the powder tube is 1/4 or 3/4 full. Makes a huge difference. With how repeatable this setup is, a powder check does no good but to make beeps when a .380 finds its way in, or I'm ending a session.


Instead of the powder check, my eyes do a quick scan as the ram comes down - doesn't take but a second to verify all the below in this order:
crimp station - does the round look normal (easy check for a .380 brass, if the primer station didn't eject it from the shell plate)
Bullet drop - correct orientation
After ram is down - powder charge look normal

[GuanoLoco]

Well, the MBF arrived this week. Spent a couple hours taking my time installing it and ran 600 or so through it for a match this weekend. Still have some minor tuning to suss out; I'm getting a handful of flipped bullets every 100 rounds or so. But it's a pretty minor inconvenience at this point given how much it streamlines things. I frankly feel like an idiot for having waiting so long to buy one.

"A big step..." indeed.

Also, it's currently taking the place of my powder check die so as to not mess with my seating/crimping process, at this point anyway.



t

Installation and tuning can take a while - don't be satisfied with sub-optimal performance. Don't overill it or you can get a bullet stuck under the little 'ejector flipper thing and this will result in upside down bullets.

[taadski]

I don't think I had more than 50 or so in the hopper at a time, FWIW. I suspect I may need the fine tune the adjustment of that little ramp flipper widget a bit. ;)

Thanks for the info. I've been enjoying all the reloader tinkering threads. Good stuff!

[mmc45414]

I've been taking a flashlight and resting it on top of the toolhead when reloading, over the hole in the middle.
Gads, why didn't I ever think of that. Just made this from stuff I had on hand (including a little JB Weld):
15318

15317


I will say since adding a Prairie Dog powder baffle my charges have been 100% consistent
Just ordered one of these, thanks for the tip.

[jeep45238]

Drop it in the middle hole of the tool head of it will fit in between the nuts, and nothing else is needed :). Provides enough light to hit every station as well


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[mmc45414]

Drop it in the middle hole of the tool head of it will fit in between the nuts, and nothing else is needed :)

I experimented with that, and almost did so, but thought this threw better light into the charged case. Though the hole in the 650 is larger and that sure worked well.

[GuanoLoco]

I don't think I had more than 50 or so in the hopper at a time, FWIW. I suspect I may need the fine tune the adjustment of that little ramp flipper widget a bit. ;)

Thanks for the info. I've been enjoying all the reloader tinkering threads. Good stuff!

First thing it to get it installed properly. Mine is all the way in the back of the case feeder, the bottom corner is level, and the rfeeder sits at a 45 degree angle. Then you need to get the plastic shims more or less right for your bllet profile, then loosen the crew and get the offset of the shims such that the bases can just rotate past without callign off and the nose falls off to be flipped.

You can also slightly round the edgest of the plastic step ramp flipper thingy.

You can get detailed pics/tuning info from MBF. I think I have an old email / pics on this .... somewhere .... I think most of it made it to the support web site - dig in all the areas including rifle.