SBR help –*what's the smart way to go?

[jc000]

Currently I own a 16" carbine. I've been very happy with it and have put thousands of rounds through it without any issues. I'd set like to set up an identical 12.5" SBR that will eventually house a silencer and a 9" 300BLK upper. I'd prefer to purchase a factory SBR but unfortunately cost is a factor now.

Here are the options I'm considering –*all will done as an individual purchase.


Get my existing 16" lower registered as an SBR. Down the road buy my NFA upper, and then a replacement lower for my 16" upper. ($200?)
Purchase a stripped lower and have it registered as an SBR. Worry about an LPK and NFA upper later on. ($90+$200)
Purchase a complete lower and have it registered as an SBR. Get the NFA upper when funds permit. ($375+$200)
Just get the factory SBR. ($1200+$200)


Option 1 seems to be the most cost-effective and easiest but I don't want to go that route if there are any potential pitfalls –*like not being able to use my engraved lower while waiting on my stamp (is that even an issue?). Is there anything I'm overlooking or other option I should be considering, especially in light of the coming election?

[tremiles]

Not an NFA expert, when you're completing your paperwork you've got to give a length of the rifle. If you're eventually going to go with a 9" 300BLK upper, that's the rifle length that you want on your paperwork. You can go longer without new paperwork, but not shorter.

[jc000]

Yeah that is my understanding, appreciate the note.

I also apologize in advance top the general board as I know there is a ton of "How to NFA" info out there, but from my perspective there's SO MUCH out there, I have difficulty separating the BS from good info. Plus I'm pretty ADD when it comes to staying on top of constantly morphing regulations. Just trying to confirm that, in fact, SBR'ing my current lower is indeed the cheapest, easiest way to accomplish what I'm trying to do.

Thanks!

[MistWolf]

From my own experience-

It's easier to make an SBR than it is to buy a factory SBR. It takes about 8 weeks to transfer the SBR between Class III dealers. It's much faster to start with a standard rifle/handgun/receiver and engrave the receiver or barrel.

I bought a stripped lower and built my shorty as a pistol so I could shoot the upper and work out the kinks- which turned out to be a good idea. I had an extra lower which I had engraved and will be registering as an SBR when my firearms budget recovers sufficiently from a few recent acquisitions.

I have purchased a factory made SBR. That's how I found out about the 8 week time frame when transferring an NFA item between dealers

[HCM]

3
2
4
1

In that order.

It's a good idea to assemble the lower before you form 1 it in case there is anything out of spec.

[punkey71]

John,

Option 1 in my opinion.

It's a known, proper functioning lower that drops mags free, correct?

Provided it's a quality manufacturer that's what I'd SBR.

Option 4 is solid as well. Buy a quality complete lower. Run it on your existing 16" and make sure mags drop. Then SBR it if it's GTG.




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[jc000]

HCM, do you mind me asking why #1 is so far down the list? PM is fine if not worth rehashing on the board. Appreciate the thoughts about assembling the lower.

[HCM]

HCM, do you mind me asking why #1 is so far down the list? PM is fine if not worth rehashing on the board. Appreciate the thoughts about assembling the lower.

Because your title 1 lower, your only AR lower now becomes an NFA item - I prefer to keep those worlds separate. NFA is not a cheap game and a lower is a cheap investment, at least at this time. A decent lower will like be the same or less than your trust and stamp. After the election who knows what price and/ or availability will be.

[rayrevolver]

I vote 3. Use the new lower with your 16" upper and mags. If it's all good, engrave and then send in the paperwork.

Here is option 5 - Cheap Factory SBR. Do not think I am pimping this whatsoever:
http://aeroprecisionusa.com/oem-sbr-8-300-blackout.html

... much better to have 2 functional lowers than an SBR sitting somewhere you cant even function check for at least 6-8 months.

[johnson]

Option 1. There are no pitfalls. I have a 12.5" and I'd probably get an 11.5" if I was to do it again only because of how I transport it.

It is an SBR with a <16" upper attached. With the 16" upper on there it's just like any other rifle ie. no longer an SBR and can travel out of state with it.

[tnt817]

This is really going to be dependent upon use. I have a couple lowers that are non NFA, one I use as a rifle configuration, and the other setup as a pistol lower. I then have several sbr lowers. I have different parts on different lowers to accomplish what I designated that gun to be for. For example one of my sbr lowers is setup with a LAW folder for off body carry. No need for the folder to be on the 16" gun. The pistol lower is setup so I can take my short uppers out of state with me, if I don't get the 5320.20 back in time.

I would suggest doing a separate lower, toss in a lpk and make sure things work properly, then file for that lower. After that its easy to get a factory assembled upper and be on your way. Also in the meantime of waiting for your stamp you can get an upper and setup the lower in pistol form to shoot it. Going with a factory sbr its going to sit in your dealer's safe for 8 months.

[MistWolf]

Build it as a pistol first so you can shoot it and work out the kinks
http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n289/SgtSongDog/Lil%20Wolf%20Pup/WolfPaint001_zpsmauf2rrz.jpg

[BWT]

3
2
4
1

In that order.

It's a good idea to assemble the lower before you form 1 it in case there is anything out of spec.

Agreed.

I've done 3 and 4.

God Bless,

Brandon

[SLG]

I have to admit, the whole sbr thing seems like more hassle than it is worth. I have gone the pinned muzzle route in the past, though only for the 14.5 size uppers, which I generally prefer. I have a pistol lower, but don't actually ever use it, since it kind of defeats the purpose for me. I could see an sbr for a 9" 300blk, but otherwise, it seems to limiting to me. My work gun is an 11.5, and it is nice enough, but 14.5 seems better to me for most anything a civilian might need the gun for, which is where I'm at when travelling off duty.

Anyway, not trying to do anything but offer an alternative approach. I have cans, so I'm not adverse to nfa, but nfa is much more limiting in my mind with sbr issues.

[jc000]

My NFA lower will end up being a host for a 9" 300 BO. Those are fun little guns, especially suppressed. Hoping a 12.5 5.56 rifle will be a nice compromise between being handy and still having decent ballistics.

These will mostly be fun guns that will generally run suppressed. From my (limited) experience with SBRs, I think I'll enjoy them.

[LittleLebowski]

14.5" frustrates me because I have more than one brand of can.

[SLG]

14.5" frustrates me because I have more than one brand of can.

#firstworld problems

��

[Unobtanium]

I do not believe that is correct.

https://blog.princelaw.com/2012/12/13/can-you-change-the-barrel-length-of-an-short-barreled-rifleshotgun-sbrsbs/

https://www.arsenalattorneys.com/firearms-blog/multiple-calibers-and-barrel-lengths-for-short-barrel-rifles-sbrs

The ATF likes for you to notify them if you permanently change the configuration so that they can update their records, but AFAIK there is no legal requirement to do so (unless you are making it back into a non-SBR and want it removed from the registry).

I'm not a lawyer, do what you want. :)
You are correct. An SBR is an SBR is an SBR. They LIKE to be notified of PERMANENT configuration changes (you sold the 9" upper, etc.), but there is no requirement by the letter of the law.

[MistWolf]

14.5" frustrates me because I have more than one brand of can.

Should have stayed away from cans with proprietary parts

[punkey71]

Should have stayed away from cans with proprietary parts

I'm not sure I understand what point you are making.

Can you explain your thoughts further?


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[JM Campbell]

I'm not sure I understand what point you are making.

Can you explain your thoughts further?


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Proprietary mounting for their cans only, not using a common mount for all cans (ie a2 flash hider or aftermarket mount based off of the a2 mounting style).

At least that's what I think he means, could be wrong.....I went proprietary and don't care.

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[punkey71]

Proprietary mounting for their cans only, not using a common mount for all cans (ie a2 flash hider or aftermarket mount based off of the a2 mounting style).

At least that's what I think he means, could be wrong.....I went proprietary and don't care.

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Yes sir, I've multiple cans with their own proprietary mounts.

I'm just trying to figure out what his solution is regarding the 14.5" guns LL mentioned.


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[LittleLebowski]

Should have stayed away from cans with proprietary parts

You mean like muzzle brakes/flash hiders?

[LittleLebowski]

Should have stayed away from cans with proprietary parts

http://www.silencershop.com/silencerco-saker-direct-thread-maad-mount.html (I really need to buy one of these)

[MistWolf]

I'm not sure I understand what point you are making.

Can you explain your thoughts further?


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It's kind of an inside joke about how some ARs are "bad" simply because they have "proprietary" parts

I'm looking for a good solution to the mounting a suppressor on a 14.5" barrel myself. I don't plan to always shoot the rifle suppressed, so a quick attach mount is wanted. But, I don't want a brake or something heavy. Some suppressor mounts will add 4 oz or more, turning a 15 oz suppressor into 19 oz.

A 15 oz suppressor 6 inches in length will add 18 in/lbs of arm to a 14.5 inch barrel
A 15 oz suppressor using 2 oz A2 for a mount, adds 20 in/lbs
A 15 oz suppressor using a 4 oz mount, adds 23 in/lbs

This is using the distance of the center of the magwell (approx. CG of most AR carbines) to the center of the suppressor. That distance is about 19 inches assuming the suppressor is mounted flush to the shoulder of the muzzle threads