GP100 Match Champion sight options?

[OlongJohnson]

I've been going around in circles like a dog getting ready to lie down for some time, trying to decide on a .38/.357 revolver to start with.

Mission: Basically, be The One Revolver To Do It All. Obviously, that's not really possible, but my plan is to have something that's capable of handling much of what a revolver is good for. Plinking and punching groups on paper with WCs, training for defensive use, carrying concealed or open (in back country), traveling in places where revolvers are less scary to locals, etc. It will share ammo supply with an 1894C, which was made many years before Remington fired all the people who knew how to use Marlin's worn-out old equipment to still make good guns.

Finally found a GP100 Match Champion locally, and it seems to be everything I'd hoped it would be. Like it a lot better than the 686 SSR, and it's $100 less. Wood grip fits my hands well, the balance is just right. None of the obvious quality issues I can't seem to avoid finding on new Smiths and standard-grade Rugers. I really like the revolver I handled this afternoon; it was nice enough in every way that I can easily see just shooting and cleaning it, without being tempted to send it out for action smoothing or having to chase grips that fit my hands better. So now I need to decide whether to get the fixed or adjustable rear sight.

Obviously, I have no direct experience, but I've read enough reports, some from eminently trustworthy sources, of Ruger factory adjustable sights not staying where they're left very well. For out of the box configuration, I like the Novak fixed sights better. I have them on some semis, so I do have experience there.


In the event that the end state of this revolver includes having reliable, rugged, adjustable sights, there appear to be two options.

One is to buy the fixed sight MC and, if warranted, upgrade to the Novak adjustable sight, which is available plain or with white dots or a green tritium bar.

https://www.novaksights.com/Detail.aspx?PROD=1211282&CAT=9509

Apparently, their standard adjustable is too tall for the GP100 MC front sight, so they made this version that is adjustable only for elevation, and must be drifted for windage changes. It appears to be inherently rugged compared to blade-type adjustables.


The other option is to buy the adjustable sight version, shoot it, and if I start identifying problems with a wandering sight, upgrade to the Bowen Rough Country rear sight.

http://parts.bowenclassicarms.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&products_id=35
(That link isn't the part listed for GP100s, but Bowen doesn't include photos on the pages for the GP100 versions.)

My understanding is that, although it is screw-adjustable for both windage and elevation, the Bowen sight is meant to be Loctited and not routinely adjusted, once the desired POA/POI is established.

My expectation is that most ammo fired will be in the 148-158 grain range, but I do expect to take advantage of the full spectrum of power factors at times, from 148-gr HBWCs to full-house .357s. In theory, as far as my understanding of the theory goes, any change in POI with loads should be in elevation, so once windage is dialed in, only elevation adjustments should be needed, if any at all. On that basis, the Novak's screw adjustment for elevation should theoretically be better than the Bowen's Loctited adjustments. But occasionally, it seems other stuff can happen.

Standard answers around here for someone asking about something new to them include lots of advice to focus on software, not hardware. There are a lot of other threads talking about software development for revolvers. I've found those threads, will find more, and am confident in figuring out where to go when I am ready to take those steps. I'm hoping to keep this thread specifically focused on hardware, in particular the GP100, especially the Match Champion, and experience with the different factory and aftermarket sights mentioned (and any others worth discussing if I've missed them), and different uses and loads.

Thanks for all your help and advice!

[coconutdave]

I have the MC that came with the fixed sight. I use it for IDPA and couldn't get it to zero with a .38 load, so I had the Novak adj. rear put on it and it's great now.
I don't shoot a lot of .357 in it but MOST of them hit fairly close also. Never had any problem with it losing it's zero either.

[irascible_joe]

Bowen also makes a click-adjustable rear sight (parts.bowenclassicarms.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1), which would probably be my choice for a gun that will need frequent sight adjustments to accommodate different ammo.

Also, you really can't depend on POI only varying in elevation. The gun torques in recoil as well as coming up and back, and it's significant enough to cause windage shifts. In my GP100, the windage shift between mild .38 Special practice ammo and 200-grain hardcast .357 loads is about 3" at 15 yards.

[Robinson]

Some years ago I had a GP100 with a Bowen Rough Country rear sight installed. IMO is it all around the best option for a GP100 adjustable rear sight. It's not too difficult to adjust, is very robust, and there are multiple blade options. It's a well-made part.

[Tennessee Jed]

I have a stock GP100 that I shot for years in IDPA with 125 grain magnum ammo (I didn't win often, but I was always the loudest participant). I often carry it, and regularly shoot ammo ranging from 158 grain 38 special target ammo, 125 grain flame throwers, standard 158 grain factory magnum ammo, and 180 grain hard cast thumpers. I've never had a problem with the stock GP100 adjustable sights staying where I want them to, with the caveat that I did add Ruger's fiber-optic front sight, which I also like quite a bit.

To really take advantage of the versatility of the GP100, one should seriously consider adjustable sights. And just because I enjoy showing it off, a photo is attached:

11102

[Rex G]

I have never had a GP100 factory sight go out-of-adjustment, though one rear sight leaf did develop a crack, so I replaced the whole rear sight assembly. Police duty carry is rough on the equipment, so I do not know if that crack was a stress crack, caused over time, or caused by a single blow that went unnoticed at the time.

My biggest problem with handgun sights, at present, is simply seeing them, even with my prescription eyeglasses. About a week ago, I found I could not focus on the front sight, through the factory rear notch, with any of my revolvers. I am going to follow this thread, for ideas. (A few days ago, I went internettin', to see if Weigand's optic mounts were still available. I think I may be about to mount an Aimpoint Micro on a sixgun.)

[OlongJohnson]

Might as well update here.

Ended up buying the adjustable sight MC. It was $686 with freight insurance from Bud's, coincidentally enough.

The top lug of the barrel is offset toward the left side of the frame about 0.009 inch, which doesn't sound like much, but the difference side to side is twice that, so it's very noticeable if you look for it, and difficult to not look for once you know it's there. It appears to be a lateral offset, not a cant. The rear sight blade was cranked all the way over to flush with the left side of the sight body, so I had no idea what kind of mess things were. A couple of the notches appeared to have some peening (the gun was NIB, factory fired only). Couldn't apply enough force to press the trigger group release pin.

Called up Ruger. They sent a call tag. They received the unit Friday and I had tracking numbers for the return on Monday. Just got it from the FedEx guy, one week after I shipped it.

Rear sight is centered, cylinder is refinished with peened material removed, the trigger group is apparently refit to the frame, and some of the sharp edges on the hammer are smoothed. The paper work says it was test fired, and there's evidence of that.

I got polishing residue on my hands, and it feels grittier (polishing residue everywhere, I reckon), so it definitely needs to be stripped and cleaned before I even do a dry fire session, but I expect it's overall going to be acceptable. As long as it shoots straight, I expect I'll be OK with it. My expectations are definitely of a working-level gun at this point (in spite of the "Match Champion" special branding), not a "thing of beauty" in any way other than if it turns out to be beautifully functional. But that's typical of most Rugers.

Academy has brass-cased, non-magnetic .38SPL JHP for $15/box, so that will probably be the bulk of my early volume.

[BehindBlueI's]

Might as well update here.

Ended up buying the adjustable sight MC. It was $686 with freight insurance from Bud's, coincidentally enough.

The top lug of the barrel is offset toward the left side of the frame about 0.009 inch, which doesn't sound like much, but the difference side to side is twice that, so it's very noticeable if you look for it, and difficult to not look for once you know it's there. It appears to be a lateral offset, not a cant. The rear sight blade was cranked all the way over to flush with the left side of the sight body, so I had no idea what kind of mess things were. A couple of the notches appeared to have some peening (the gun was NIB, factory fired only). Couldn't apply enough force to press the trigger group release pin.

Called up Ruger. They sent a call tag. They received the unit Friday and I had tracking numbers for the return on Monday. Just got it from the FedEx guy, one week after I shipped it.

Rear sight is centered, cylinder is refinished with peened material removed, the trigger group is apparently refit to the frame, and some of the sharp edges on the hammer are smoothed. The paper work says it was test fired, and there's evidence of that.

It's a damn shame that Ruger revolvers might as well come with a return label these days. Just put in an envelope that says "if you actually intend to shoot this gun, open this" and then a letter inside explaining they build an 80% for most the folks who don't know any better, but will be happy to make yours right such you opened the envelope.

[OlongJohnson]

The same is as true of S&W, IME.

[Tom Duffy]

Small sample size, but I've been way happier with S&W than Ruger being good out of the box. Both have excellent customer service. In my opinion, a revolver is something you need to physically inspect and buy retail. Save Bud's for the HK and Glock purchases.

[JonInWA]

I have a stock GP100 that I shot for years in IDPA with 125 grain magnum ammo (I didn't win often, but I was always the loudest participant). I often carry it, and regularly shoot ammo ranging from 158 grain 38 special target ammo, 125 grain flame throwers, standard 158 grain factory magnum ammo, and 180 grain hard cast thumpers. I've never had a problem with the stock GP100 adjustable sights staying where I want them to, with the caveat that I did add Ruger's fiber-optic front sight, which I also like quite a bit.

To really take advantage of the versatility of the GP100, one should seriously consider adjustable sights. And just because I enjoy showing it off, a photo is attached:

11102

As you well should show it off, Tennessee. Magnificent GP. Who did your compact grip inserts-that's some nicely figured wood there.

Best, Jon

[Tennessee Jed]

Thank you Jon. I love those inserts. They are Texas mesquite, which I thought was pretty cool.

A retired gentleman in Pennsylvania made these for me. He has a running post on another forum detailing what he currently has available, and I guess it's probably not appropriate to identify that forum here. His email address is belvedere1967@ymail.com. He has also made stocks for me out of Brazilian zebrawood for a flat-top Blackhawk, and mesquite stocks for a 1911. He is a good man who does good work for a great price.

[JonInWA]

PM sent.

Best, Jon

[OlongJohnson]

I'm liking this MC more and more.

As noted in my previous update (https://pistol-forum.com/showthread.php?22586-GP100-Match-Champion-sight-options&p=519930&viewfull=1#post519930), there was polishing residue in many places on the outside, and a (new) slight grittiness to the trigger press when it came back from Ruger. I did a detail strip to solvent-clean everything. Found several deposits of what appeared to be red garnet polishing/grinding compound in various places around the insides. I deburred rough edges and knocked down assorted nastiness throughout. Kept all the springs original. For a piece of hardware that is still within the parameters of original design intent, the result is quite pleasing.

I also swapped out the grip to a Hogue NFG rubber unit (https://pistol-forum.com/showthread.php?23950-My-New-Fave&p=562973&viewfull=1#post562973), with a couple minor adjustments, and that's working well.

The rear sight pin started to walk out, so I have Loctited it. If that isn't enough, there are several more advanced strategies to try.

The front sight has bugged me, which brings me back to this thread. Original equipment is this Novak fiber-optic (http://www.novaksights.com/Detail.aspx?PROD=1100671&CAT=9509). Unlike most FO sights, which are cut more or less square, the ends on this element are rounded buttons or “lenses.” The light intensity is not consistent, with areas that are brighter and darker distributed unevenly around the thin edges of the button. It doesn’t seem to be precisely dimensioned like a machined or otherwise tooled part, which is almost to be expected given the installation method for the FO element described on the Novak web site (http://www.novaksights.com/Detail.aspx?PROD=1217923&CAT=9891). That process is inherently uncontrolled and I believe can be expected to deliver random results. Frankly, the sample photographed by Novak for the first link in this paragraph looks worse than mine.

This is mine:

14275

The button was approximately tangent with the post on the left side, but protruded outside the post on the right and top edges of the front sight. This meant the center of the FO button was not aligned with the center of the post, creating a conflict that slowed acquisition of a sight picture. It also broke up the post’s square shape, leaving only the upper corners as black, and two of the three edges had lumps in them, rather than being crisp, straight lines. Further, the light intensity of the FO element even in shaded daylight overpowered the adjacent dark edges, making it difficult to focus on them closely. Overall, I felt like I was struggling to hold this revolver with the precision I'm used to.

I looked at the drop-in options from Novak (http://www.novaksights.com/products.aspx?CAT=9509) and was thinking about trying either the brass bead (http://www.novaksights.com/Detail.aspx?PROD=1100669&CAT=9509) or standard tritium dot (http://www.novaksights.com/Detail.aspx?PROD=1100669&CAT=9509). I don’t plan for this to ever be a nightstand/HD or CC gun. It will be for square range, maybe some IDPA and carrying in the woods. I was leaning toward the brass bead, as it can more readily be painted various colors and solvent-cleaned back to original, and should be immune to breakage. I haven’t shot with a brass or gold bead before, but it seems like a little brighter spot to help speed with initial sight picture, contrast against black targets and stand out in heavy shade/low sun conditions without overpowering the dark outline of the front post should be pretty effective. I like the traditional look on this revolver, too.

Then I had a brainstorm. The brass bead is $50 plus freight from Novak, and is currently backordered. Replacement FO elements are four for $5 with free shipping, so it's no issue to get back where I started if I want to. I cut off one of the buttons and pulled out the element, leaving a nice, round hole. I then took a chunk of scrap brass rod, made a pin that is a 0.001” interference fit right at the end, cold blued most of it so it blends visually, tapped it in with a small plastic mallet, and added some Loctite 290 to hold on the slip-fit portion. Probably spent the most time getting the swirl mark on the end just right, but it was worth it, because it’s flatter and looks nicer than the Novak part in the photo on their web site. A fun little mini-project in the shop, and my GP upgraded for $0 and no waiting.

As I was looking at everything much more closely, I also noticed there was a slight burr in the notch of the rear sight blade, which made the right vertical side curved and non-vertical. I stoned off the burr and touched it up with a cold blue pen, so the notch is now straight.

Haven’t been to the range yet, but I’m expecting good things.

14276

[Hizzie]

Awesome job! I like it.

[Edster]

I'm liking this MC more and more.

As noted in my previous update (https://pistol-forum.com/showthread.php?22586-GP100-Match-Champion-sight-options&p=519930&viewfull=1#post519930), there was polishing residue in many places on the outside, and a (new) slight grittiness to the trigger press when it came back from Ruger. I did a detail strip to solvent-clean everything. Found several deposits of what appeared to be red garnet polishing/grinding compound in various places around the insides. I deburred rough edges and knocked down assorted nastiness throughout. Kept all the springs original. For a piece of hardware that is still within the parameters of original design intent, the result is quite pleasing.

I also swapped out the grip to a Hogue NFG rubber unit (https://pistol-forum.com/showthread.php?23950-My-New-Fave&p=562973&viewfull=1#post562973), with a couple minor adjustments, and that's working well.

The rear sight pin started to walk out, so I have Loctited it. If that isn't enough, there are several more advanced strategies to try.

The front sight has bugged me, which brings me back to this thread. Original equipment is this Novak fiber-optic (http://www.novaksights.com/Detail.aspx?PROD=1100671&CAT=9509). Unlike most FO sights, which are cut more or less square, the ends on this element are rounded buttons or “lenses.” The light intensity is not consistent, with areas that are brighter and darker distributed unevenly around the thin edges of the button. It doesn’t seem to be precisely dimensioned like a machined or otherwise tooled part, which is almost to be expected given the installation method for the FO element described on the Novak web site (http://www.novaksights.com/Detail.aspx?PROD=1217923&CAT=9891). That process is inherently uncontrolled and I believe can be expected to deliver random results. Frankly, the sample photographed by Novak for the first link in this paragraph looks worse than mine.

This is mine:

14275

The button was approximately tangent with the post on the left side, but protruded outside the post on the right and top edges of the front sight. This meant the center of the FO button was not aligned with the center of the post, creating a conflict that slowed acquisition of a sight picture. It also broke up the post’s square shape, leaving only the upper corners as black, and two of the three edges had lumps in them, rather than being crisp, straight lines. Further, the light intensity of the FO element even in shaded daylight overpowered the adjacent dark edges, making it difficult to focus on them closely. Overall, I felt like I was struggling to hold this revolver with the precision I'm used to.

I looked at the drop-in options from Novak (http://www.novaksights.com/products.aspx?CAT=9509) and was thinking about trying either the brass bead (http://www.novaksights.com/Detail.aspx?PROD=1100669&CAT=9509) or standard tritium dot (http://www.novaksights.com/Detail.aspx?PROD=1100669&CAT=9509). I don’t plan for this to ever be a nightstand/HD or CC gun. It will be for square range, maybe some IDPA and carrying in the woods. I was leaning toward the brass bead, as it can more readily be painted various colors and solvent-cleaned back to original, and should be immune to breakage. I haven’t shot with a brass or gold bead before, but it seems like a little brighter spot to help speed with initial sight picture, contrast against black targets and stand out in heavy shade/low sun conditions without overpowering the dark outline of the front post should be pretty effective. I like the traditional look on this revolver, too.

Then I had a brainstorm. The brass bead is $50 plus freight from Novak, and is currently backordered. Replacement FO elements are four for $5 with free shipping, so it's no issue to get back where I started if I want to. I cut off one of the buttons and pulled out the element, leaving a nice, round hole. I then took a chunk of scrap brass rod, made a pin that is a 0.001” interference fit right at the end, cold blued most of it so it blends visually, tapped it in with a small plastic mallet, and added some Loctite 290 to hold on the slip-fit portion. Probably spent the most time getting the swirl mark on the end just right, but it was worth it, because it’s flatter and looks nicer than the Novak part in the photo on their web site. A fun little mini-project in the shop, and my GP upgraded for $0 and no waiting.

As I was looking at everything much more closely, I also noticed there was a slight burr in the notch of the rear sight blade, which made the right vertical side curved and non-vertical. I stoned off the burr and touched it up with a cold blue pen, so the notch is now straight.

Haven’t been to the range yet, but I’m expecting good things.

14276

I had almost the exact same issues with the stock fiber optic. I also ran out of patience for Novak to get the brass bead front back in stock so I jumped on the tritium instead.

I considered doing something like what you did with the brass rod but didn't have the tools or confidence to pull it off. The tritium front surpassed my expectations so I have no regrets. As a bonus, it proved to me that tritium on just the front sight is viable for me -- I had some doubts.

Still, the sight picture with that bead looks excellent. Nicely done.

[Tennessee Jed]

That is REALLY slick. I love it.

[APS-PF]

That looks great! You must have used a lathe to make it? Hand tools would have been rough.
When I shot IDPA I had (I think it was SGW?) make one of their gold bead front sights but instead of having a head on the bead, just leave it shaft diameter. Similar results to yours and they were great, put them on a 617 for practice and my 3" M66 for matches.

[OlongJohnson]

Due to work on the house, there has been a lot of stuff stacked in front of the safe for many weeks. Getting "pretty much" back to normal now, and took the GP-MC out for some dry fire tonight. Had forgotten how slick the trigger is. Like greased seal snot, still with the original spring. Looking forward to getting to the range again.

[entropy]

Missed the original post on the brass insert. Wow. I have the same issue with my new .44spl GP. If you ever go into the "brass insert business" mark me down for one!!

[Stephanie B]

I'm liking this MC more and more.

As noted in my previous update (https://pistol-forum.com/showthread.php?22586-GP100-Match-Champion-sight-options&p=519930&viewfull=1#post519930), there was polishing residue in many places on the outside, and a (new) slight grittiness to the trigger press when it came back from Ruger. I did a detail strip to solvent-clean everything. Found several deposits of what appeared to be red garnet polishing/grinding compound in various places around the insides. I deburred rough edges and knocked down assorted nastiness throughout. Kept all the springs original. For a piece of hardware that is still within the parameters of original design intent, the result is quite pleasing.

Isn't that a little disquieting that a gun that was sent back to the factory for repair was returned with polishing compound in its guts, rough edges and burrs?

[OlongJohnson]

I suspect the polishing compound may have always been there, maybe just got moved around a bit, and I know the rough edges and burrs were original equipment.

I've learned that one of Carroll Smith's lines about race cars is applicable to many things in life, including firearms. Paraphrasing, the only reason for the manufacturer to have assembled your new race car is that it's most economical to ship it that way, and it provides a reasonable check that all the parts are included. I've become one of those guys who isn't comfortable taking a new gun to the range until I've detail stripped, deburred, smoothed, recleaned and lubed everything. I'd much rather find and remove that burr on the corner of the slide before it scrapes all the anodizing off the frame...

[OlongJohnson]

Missed the original post on the brass insert. Wow. I have the same issue with my new .44spl GP. If you ever go into the "brass insert business" mark me down for one!!

I'm an engineer, not a machinist. I can do stuff, but I'm slow. Which means you couldn't afford it, or I'd go broke in about a week. One of the two.

[Stephanie B]

I suspect the polishing compound may have always been there, maybe just got moved around a bit, and I know the rough edges and burrs were original equipment.

I've learned that one of Carroll Smith's lines about race cars is applicable to many things in life, including firearms. Paraphrasing, the only reason for the manufacturer to have assembled your new race car is that it's most economical to ship it that way, and it provides a reasonable check that all the parts are included. I've become one of those guys who isn't comfortable taking a new gun to the range until I've detail stripped, deburred, smoothed, recleaned and lubed everything. I'd much rather find and remove that burr on the corner of the slide before it scrapes all the anodizing off the frame...

That's fine, but you're probably in a very small minority of gun buyers. I suspect that the vast majority of buyers aren't going to detail strip anything, with the possible exception of a 1911. If the cost-cutting has gotten to the point that they can't remove crap like that, then Ruger may have a QC problem.

[OlongJohnson]

That's fine, but you're probably in a very small minority of gun buyers. I suspect that the vast majority of buyers aren't going to detail strip anything, with the possible exception of a 1911. If the cost-cutting has gotten to the point that they can't remove crap like that, then Ruger may have a QC problem.

They for sure do. Canted barrels, barrel offset laterally relative to the sides of the frame, incorrectly machined sight dovetails, etc.

Brand new Smiths with crunchy triggers; crescent-moon crowns coming and going all the way back to early in the two-piece barrel era...

Buying revolvers isn't for beginners or people on a tight budget.

[entropy]

I'm an engineer, not a machinist. I can do stuff, but I'm slow. Which means you couldn't afford it, or I'd go broke in about a week. One of the two.

So it would be expensive and worse than ordering a holster?:p

You have, however, encouraged me to go looking for brass rod stock...

[Edster]

Sorry to bump an old thread. I thought folks might want to know Novak has brass bead GP100 dovetail front sights in stock.

https://www.novaksights.com/Products.aspx?CAT=9509

Even though I'm pretty happy with the tritium front sight, I ordered one for the parts box. They don't have the brass bead in stock often and the tritium will fade someday.

[OlongJohnson]

The one I made has a flatter surface than their photo sample for the web site. The circular grooves would bug me.

[Edster]

The one I made has a flatter surface than their photo sample for the web site. The circular grooves would bug me.

Yours is simply awesome. I wonder if a brass rod option for fiber optic sights would have wider appeal.

I'll post a picture when it comes in.

[Edster]

Sight arrived today.
19892

[Wyoming Shooter]

I bought the fixed sight Match Champion today at the Rock Springs, WY Sportsman's Warehouse. Price was $840 with tax. The trigger is very good - certainly better than a S&W 686 SSR that was $100 more. In the box was a section of brass rod, presumably to replace the fiber optic rod in the front sight. I'll be interested to see how the factory fixed sights are regulated. Best, ELN.

[OlongJohnson]

Read your owner's manual before you go cutting the lens off your fiber optic. You might be looking at the pin that is included to insert in the hammer spring strut to facilitate disassembly.

Also, I'd at least field strip it and check the insides for debris before you do too many dry fires or shoot it much.

[entropy]

Read your owner's manual before you go cutting the lens off your fiber optic. You might be looking at the pin that is included to insert in the hammer spring strut to facilitate disassembly.

Also, I'd at least field strip it and check the insides for debris before you do too many dry fires or shoot it much.


Thats EXACTLY what that brass rod is for.

Dont be cuttin’ it!

I didnt care for the green so replced mine with a red pipe. Brownells is the place for pipes and brass rod if needed.

Enjoy!

[HCM]

Does anyone make a thinner front sight for the Match Champion ?

[willie]

Wyoming got a fine revolver that'll smooth up nicely. One's grip and even stanch can affect point of impact. The shooter's position relative to the sun can also. Of course ammo can be a big factor. I urge patience as you learn your new gun if you are at first not pleased with poi.

[OlongJohnson]

Does anyone make a thinner front sight for the Match Champion ?

According to Novak, the narrowest front sight they make is 0.125 inch. You'd have to find something else with a Novak dovetail and the taller revolver height.

[jamautry]

Dawson Precision shows to have Fiber Optic front sights of various heights in both 0.100" and 0.125" widths for the GP 100.

[https://dawsonprecision.com/ruger-gp100-revolver-fiber-optic-front-sights]

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk

[HCM]

Dawson Precision shows to have Fiber Optic front sights of various heights in both 0.100" and 0.125" widths for the GP 100.

[https://dawsonprecision.com/ruger-gp100-revolver-fiber-optic-front-sights]

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk

Thanks but the Match Champion does not use the normal GP100 front sight mounting system. It is a Novak dovetail.

[HCM]

According to Novak, the narrowest front sight they make is 0.125 inch. You'd have to find something else with a Novak dovetail and the taller revolver height.

.125 would work as long as it has a "normal" sized FO rod.. The factory sight is .140 ish with a HUGE Fiber Optic.

[jamautry]

Thanks but the Match Champion does not use the normal GP100 front sight mounting system. It is a Novak dovetail.Sorry about that. They have a ton of Novak cut front sights of all heights and widths.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk

[Wyoming Shooter]

I now have enough time in with the GP100MC to realize that it definitely needs an adjustable rear sight. I've placed an order with Novak: https://www.novaksights.com/Detail.aspx?PROD=1211282&CAT=9509 I concur that the factory front sight is big, a bit too big for my liking. I'll work on that next. The trigger on my example is very good. The gun has run flawlessly so far and seems like it's built to last. Best, ELN.

22305

[OlongJohnson]

On Novak's web site, there is a "Sights 101" (http://www.novaksights.com/Content.aspx?PAGE=%22Sights%20101%22) page containing the following admonition:


The next critical part is what we refer to the “points of contact” issue. If there is any light showing through the underside of the sight there is a chance of it “opening up” the dovetail and becoming loose from the repetitive cycling of the slide. The front sights, which are more prone to becoming loose, need the five points of contact to minimize this from happening. The five points are the front underside of the blade, both angles of the dovetail, the bottom of the dovetail, and the rear underside of the blade. Having contact with all five of those points and having the roll pin installed, as an added protective measure, will keep the front sight in place under the most extreme conditions and help prevent fatiguing or opening of the dovetail cut.

I have my doubts about the relative likelihood of the inertia of the front sight blade under the relatively gentle acceleration and deceleration of recoil opening up the dovetail, versus the mass of the whole gun being almost instantaneously redirected during bumps and knocks of normal handling when it involves the front sight, but I guess "Your gun has a lot of recoil" is an easier sell to most people who would purchase Novak sights than "You screwed up your gun by mishandling/abusing it."

My GP100 Match Champion has already been back to Ruger and returned with nothing done about the gap under the front sight blade. Others have been told it's not a problem, and they won't fix it. This seems to be the latest approach, posted here 12/18/2017:


I also call[ed] a[nd] spoke with Ruger customer service about the front sight issue. I was told that the front sight gap was there to prevent scratching on installation but they were happy to send me a brass bead sight that would fit better and no cost to me. Another thumbs up to Ruger's customer service. I asked the guys at the shop about making a brass bead, they laughed and said the tolerances on their machines are bigger than the bead would be.

I'll just note that the lathe I used to make the brass pin is thoroughly worn out, to the point I don't trust it for anything serious.

In any case, I wanted to be sure the front sight doesn't start walking around due to the dovetail loosening, and Ruger isn't going to help me. I bedded under the front and rear of the blade with the Devcon 10110 steel-filled epoxy putty that's popular for bedding bolt-action rifles to stocks (https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/stock-work-finishing/stock-bedding-adhesives/epoxy-metals-prod5808.aspx). Degreased everything thoroughly, first hosing it down with brake cleaner and then isopropyl alcohol. Applied blue masking tape to everything I didn't want epoxied, using an edge cut with sharp scissors so it would be smoother and straighter than the roll edge. Worked the edges down tightly with a wooden mixing stick cut to a chisel point. (Thanks, Starbucks!) Mixed 0.9g of putty to 0.1g of hardener thoroughly, and worked it under one side of the blade until there was a bead squeezing out the other side and the end - basically, everywhere that I wasn't forcing it in. That way, I knew the whole space was filled. Troweled away the excess, removed the masking tape, taking care to re-trowel with a clean chisel-point Starbucks stick as the first side of the masking was removed. Let it sit for 24 hours, supported in an upright position so it couldn't sag to one side.

Had this on my list to do for way too long, and it turned out to go more smoothly and easily, and work better overall, than I had expected. I guess building all those model airplanes when I was a kid paid off.

I don't know if driving the dovetail base will be able to break this bond. I do know that if I really have to change the sight one day, it will be possible to mill or grind the blade down to epoxy level, remove the epoxy, and drive the dovetail base out normally. The brushed stainless finish may show some marks, but it can be brushed again. But I don't anticipate having to change the sight. It's unlikely to move, and if I do have to remove it, the dovetail will likely retain its original geometry and tight fit on a new base, no matter what abuse it sees between now and then.

One process improvement might be to have the sight removed, degrease everything and then apply a release agent (i.e., Johnson's floor wax or Kiwi clear shoe polish) to the top of the barrel before installing the sight. Then, the epoxy would only stick to the underside of the sight blade, not the barrel.

I haven't yet reapplied any anti-corrosion oil in the photo, so it will blacken up. The little smudges that appear wet should blend just fine.

With the tuneup of the Hogue NFG grip I've described elsewhere, mainly flattening out the hunchback from the back strap, I continue to be happy with this little guy.

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[willie]

If the front sight were loose to begin with, and the shooter was firing large numbers of heavy loads--like 125 grain magnum ammo--recoil inertia might cause the sight to break away from the barrel. I've seen this occur on 1911 front sights which had been staked. Once loose, they soon "departed". However, comparing a front on a recoiling slide with your Ruger's sight may not be a best practice--not exactly the same by any means.

You did a neat epoxy application. Could you have accomplished the same end by roughening the sight base bottom and coating it with Loctite? I ask out of curiosity and am not implying that you should have.

[OlongJohnson]

I wouldn't expect Loctite to have the same compressive strength to support the blade against fore-aft rocking motion. And the liquid would be a lot harder to get to fill the gap and then stay neatly in place until it cured. The Devcon 10110 has more of a smooth peanut butter consistency. Its dark grey color is also appropriate for the location.

[Stephanie B]

So, is the front-sight gap for the Novak sights on the GP100-series not a real problem or a bet by Ruger that the cost of fixing the guns of shooters whose sights break will be less than the cost of fitting the front sights per Novak's installation instructions?

[Wyoming Shooter]

Well done! I yesterday replaced the factory rear sight with the Novak adjustable: https://www.novaksights.com/Detail.aspx?PROD=1211282&CAT=9509. The sight comes without installation instructions. I used a brass punch and light hammer from a Wheeler kit. The "old" sight is removed from left to right. The new sight is installed from right to left. The fit was tight, but not so tight as to require any fitting. I applied blue loctite to the base of the sight and the set screw. From the Big Empty, ELN.

[OlongJohnson]

So, is the front-sight gap for the Novak sights on the GP100-series not a real problem or a bet by Ruger that the cost of fixing the guns of shooters whose sights break will be less than the cost of fitting the front sights per Novak's installation instructions?

As noted in the quote from FES313, the brushed stainless finish on the top of the barrel would be marred by sliding a sight into a correctly-machined dovetail approximately 100 percent of the time. So people will complain about that when it comes out of the box. Unsupported sight blades can go decades in a sock drawer or closet shelf without issue.

[OlongJohnson]

Back when I cleaned up the action, I also stoned the roughness off the edges of the laser-cut billboard on the slab. It felt a lot better, but the look wasn't perfectly regular. Took a little time this weekend to do a more thorough job, protecting the edges around the flats with masking tape and using 320 and 600 grit paper backed up with nice, flat blocks. Used some 1/2" round aluminum bar I had sitting on the back of my bench to get the radius near the frame. Just barely enough to remove the tool marks. All movement parallel to the bore. Looks quite nice. Can recommend it.

[OlongJohnson]

Finally got the GP to the range with the Bowen Rough Country rear and the front as seen above.

Sighted in at 15 yards, since that was about as far as the indoor range went.

Had to play with windage a bit because my barrel is offset slightly to the left in the frame. It came out right when the notch was centered up on the front sight as indicated by the serrations on the top of the barrel. Logical, at least.

With the elevation cranked all the way down and bottoming, Geco 158gr .38 SPL FMJ was right on. PMC 132gr .38 SPL FMJ was a few inches low. The few rounds of Perfecta .357M FMJ I shot were a little high.

I probably won't be shooting a heck of a lot of magnums through this. I can live with a standard load of 158gr hitting dead on. I have two cases of it that I bought right before the dempanic made everything crazy, so I at least won't need to make any adjustments for awhile.

[jtcarm]

The Rough Country gives a nicer sight picture and are rock solid on my GP100.

The Ruger factory-adjustable rear has a reputation for losing adjustment, besides being a PITA to adjust with that tiny windage screw.

I also replaced the front with a 1/10” Dawson FO. My old eyes need more light.