LittleLebowski
09-30-2016, 02:03 PM
***Unorganized and a copy of an email I sent!***
First off, I can't think of a better machine for me than the Dillon 550 (gifted to me by an extremely generous individual and augmented by donations from other generous folk, THANK YOU, you know who you are). The caliber changes are cheap and fast. The manual index is not as slow as one thinks but it still keeps me from most fuckups. Last reloading session, I was going slowish and had to stop and fill a primer tube as well but still averaged 3.5 rounds a minute of 9mm 125gr coast cast lead rounds, 4gr of TG. However, my recently reconstructed (November 2015) shoulder gets pretty sore after a coupla hundred rounds (four pulls of the handle per round). Therefore, I ordered the Inline Fabrication Ergo handle (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PZR210U/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=ratio07-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B00PZR210U&linkId=2e5f9b33adc08e9b59b90a378537b2a4) for my 550. If I continue to have issues with pain and mobility, I will consider saving up for a Dillon 1050 in 9mm as there's much less pulling of the handle and less force required as well.
As much as I love my 550 I'd love to have an extra station for a powder check die that alerts me to double charges. Titegroup is a motherfucker on this but I'm willing to take the chance so long as I stay very aware of the possibility as there's no more economical powder than Titegroup both in how much you use per round and in actual cost per pound. Lighting and being methodical are key here and my reloading room is still getting there on lighting but the Inline Fab Skylight (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PZR3INE/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=ratio07-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B00PZR3INE&linkId=5e77551f732ed2a4bd3757328ee46c59) is something I consider essential. I have upped the lighting in the reloading room itself but I think an overhead lighting upgrade is needed in the future.
Long/tall roller handle and tall mount are also essential. Dillon stock or Inline Fab.
Extra Akro bins can be bought at Target locally, I use them a lot in different sizes. You don't have to buy Dillon bins, I use Stanley ones from Target, they come with a mounting solution for wall storage as well. Cheap and easy.
I bought these micrometer powder bars (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AM3ZBBC/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=ratio07-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B01AM3ZBBC&linkId=01778b7bdaf0a544761fe9255b1c15f0) for measuring out a charge instead of so much guess work and I find the install instructions fucking WOEFUL. Not happy with the manufacturer ignoring my email. That being said, I have verified via beam scale that their "Perfect Powder Baffle" does indeed prevent the powder change from changing as the power level goes down (even so, I still keep powder measures at least 1/3 full) and I strongly recommend these for all of your powder measures.
Dedicated powder measures/toolheads. FUCK YES. As fathers and husbands, our time is limited, spend the money.
After observing a shell filled with powder experience "hop" as the press rotated the shell plate and a few flakes of powder come out, I bought this from Level 10 Innovations (https://lvl10i.com/collections/dillon-upgrades/products/bearing-kit-w-modified-sprocket-for-dillon-550) and I recommend the equivalent for other Dillons. I believe it has nearly completely obviated that problem but one must still use smooth motions when reloading. The seasoned reloaders talk a lot about technique.
Military crimped brass is a motherfucker. I use my RCBS Special 5 single stage with an RCBS universal recapping die to get the primer out and then buzz the primer pocket with one of these (http://www.midwayusa.com/product/786428/k-and-m-primer-pocket-correction-tool?cm_mmc=se_service-_-shippingconf-_-shippingconf-_-ProductShippedTodayLink) chucked into my cordless drill. Seems to work, will let all know more after my next carbine class. I'd rather not spend too much money on this problem as I intend to simply buy a bunch of good brass in the future as I work through my range pickup brass stockpile. The easy solution if one must use military crimped brass and wants to reload a lot of it is to get a Dillon 1050 and a Dillon brass trimmer but really, just buy regular brass and don't dick with it.
Coated cast lead bullets work great for 9mm, not enough data on .300blk yet. I'll keep you updated. Go to round is the Leatherhead 125grRN bullet (http://leatherheadbullets.com/9-mm-125-grn-rn-500-ct/) in mixed brass, CCI primer, 1.125 COAL, 4.0gr of Titegroup.
Primer management upgrade (http://www.ebay.com/itm/231783630462) has been installed and it seems to work. Primers get fucking everywhere for a while when I reloaded despite the Dillon used primer cup, so I shunt this guy (http://www.uniquetek.com/product/T1346-550) to a 2 liter bottle with some cheap mineral oil in it in order to soak up the used primer dust. I needed these upgrades, no doubt about it.
My single stage press is something I'm glad to have, I recommend one for use. Get a heavy duty one for double duty on precision rifle if you get really into that and also for mass depriming.
Keep a labeling solution (labeler or even PostIt notes in your reloading room and use it often. I also recommend a whiteboard mounted near the reloading station.
I would love to find a digital scale that works well and doesn't break the bank. I believe I'll get one with a certified weight for calibration.
Harbor freight $4 plastic ammo cans rock. Little ammo boxes for organizing test loads are essential.
I believe that the reloading room should be lockable or at least all of the components should be locked up.
First off, I can't think of a better machine for me than the Dillon 550 (gifted to me by an extremely generous individual and augmented by donations from other generous folk, THANK YOU, you know who you are). The caliber changes are cheap and fast. The manual index is not as slow as one thinks but it still keeps me from most fuckups. Last reloading session, I was going slowish and had to stop and fill a primer tube as well but still averaged 3.5 rounds a minute of 9mm 125gr coast cast lead rounds, 4gr of TG. However, my recently reconstructed (November 2015) shoulder gets pretty sore after a coupla hundred rounds (four pulls of the handle per round). Therefore, I ordered the Inline Fabrication Ergo handle (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PZR210U/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=ratio07-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B00PZR210U&linkId=2e5f9b33adc08e9b59b90a378537b2a4) for my 550. If I continue to have issues with pain and mobility, I will consider saving up for a Dillon 1050 in 9mm as there's much less pulling of the handle and less force required as well.
As much as I love my 550 I'd love to have an extra station for a powder check die that alerts me to double charges. Titegroup is a motherfucker on this but I'm willing to take the chance so long as I stay very aware of the possibility as there's no more economical powder than Titegroup both in how much you use per round and in actual cost per pound. Lighting and being methodical are key here and my reloading room is still getting there on lighting but the Inline Fab Skylight (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PZR3INE/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=ratio07-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B00PZR3INE&linkId=5e77551f732ed2a4bd3757328ee46c59) is something I consider essential. I have upped the lighting in the reloading room itself but I think an overhead lighting upgrade is needed in the future.
Long/tall roller handle and tall mount are also essential. Dillon stock or Inline Fab.
Extra Akro bins can be bought at Target locally, I use them a lot in different sizes. You don't have to buy Dillon bins, I use Stanley ones from Target, they come with a mounting solution for wall storage as well. Cheap and easy.
I bought these micrometer powder bars (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AM3ZBBC/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=ratio07-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B01AM3ZBBC&linkId=01778b7bdaf0a544761fe9255b1c15f0) for measuring out a charge instead of so much guess work and I find the install instructions fucking WOEFUL. Not happy with the manufacturer ignoring my email. That being said, I have verified via beam scale that their "Perfect Powder Baffle" does indeed prevent the powder change from changing as the power level goes down (even so, I still keep powder measures at least 1/3 full) and I strongly recommend these for all of your powder measures.
Dedicated powder measures/toolheads. FUCK YES. As fathers and husbands, our time is limited, spend the money.
After observing a shell filled with powder experience "hop" as the press rotated the shell plate and a few flakes of powder come out, I bought this from Level 10 Innovations (https://lvl10i.com/collections/dillon-upgrades/products/bearing-kit-w-modified-sprocket-for-dillon-550) and I recommend the equivalent for other Dillons. I believe it has nearly completely obviated that problem but one must still use smooth motions when reloading. The seasoned reloaders talk a lot about technique.
Military crimped brass is a motherfucker. I use my RCBS Special 5 single stage with an RCBS universal recapping die to get the primer out and then buzz the primer pocket with one of these (http://www.midwayusa.com/product/786428/k-and-m-primer-pocket-correction-tool?cm_mmc=se_service-_-shippingconf-_-shippingconf-_-ProductShippedTodayLink) chucked into my cordless drill. Seems to work, will let all know more after my next carbine class. I'd rather not spend too much money on this problem as I intend to simply buy a bunch of good brass in the future as I work through my range pickup brass stockpile. The easy solution if one must use military crimped brass and wants to reload a lot of it is to get a Dillon 1050 and a Dillon brass trimmer but really, just buy regular brass and don't dick with it.
Coated cast lead bullets work great for 9mm, not enough data on .300blk yet. I'll keep you updated. Go to round is the Leatherhead 125grRN bullet (http://leatherheadbullets.com/9-mm-125-grn-rn-500-ct/) in mixed brass, CCI primer, 1.125 COAL, 4.0gr of Titegroup.
Primer management upgrade (http://www.ebay.com/itm/231783630462) has been installed and it seems to work. Primers get fucking everywhere for a while when I reloaded despite the Dillon used primer cup, so I shunt this guy (http://www.uniquetek.com/product/T1346-550) to a 2 liter bottle with some cheap mineral oil in it in order to soak up the used primer dust. I needed these upgrades, no doubt about it.
My single stage press is something I'm glad to have, I recommend one for use. Get a heavy duty one for double duty on precision rifle if you get really into that and also for mass depriming.
Keep a labeling solution (labeler or even PostIt notes in your reloading room and use it often. I also recommend a whiteboard mounted near the reloading station.
I would love to find a digital scale that works well and doesn't break the bank. I believe I'll get one with a certified weight for calibration.
Harbor freight $4 plastic ammo cans rock. Little ammo boxes for organizing test loads are essential.
I believe that the reloading room should be lockable or at least all of the components should be locked up.