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View Full Version : Some thoughts on my reloading journey so far



LittleLebowski
09-30-2016, 02:03 PM
***Unorganized and a copy of an email I sent!***


First off, I can't think of a better machine for me than the Dillon 550 (gifted to me by an extremely generous individual and augmented by donations from other generous folk, THANK YOU, you know who you are). The caliber changes are cheap and fast. The manual index is not as slow as one thinks but it still keeps me from most fuckups. Last reloading session, I was going slowish and had to stop and fill a primer tube as well but still averaged 3.5 rounds a minute of 9mm 125gr coast cast lead rounds, 4gr of TG. However, my recently reconstructed (November 2015) shoulder gets pretty sore after a coupla hundred rounds (four pulls of the handle per round). Therefore, I ordered the Inline Fabrication Ergo handle (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PZR210U/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=ratio07-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B00PZR210U&linkId=2e5f9b33adc08e9b59b90a378537b2a4) for my 550. If I continue to have issues with pain and mobility, I will consider saving up for a Dillon 1050 in 9mm as there's much less pulling of the handle and less force required as well.

As much as I love my 550 I'd love to have an extra station for a powder check die that alerts me to double charges. Titegroup is a motherfucker on this but I'm willing to take the chance so long as I stay very aware of the possibility as there's no more economical powder than Titegroup both in how much you use per round and in actual cost per pound. Lighting and being methodical are key here and my reloading room is still getting there on lighting but the Inline Fab Skylight (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PZR3INE/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=ratio07-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B00PZR3INE&linkId=5e77551f732ed2a4bd3757328ee46c59) is something I consider essential. I have upped the lighting in the reloading room itself but I think an overhead lighting upgrade is needed in the future.

Long/tall roller handle and tall mount are also essential. Dillon stock or Inline Fab.

Extra Akro bins can be bought at Target locally, I use them a lot in different sizes. You don't have to buy Dillon bins, I use Stanley ones from Target, they come with a mounting solution for wall storage as well. Cheap and easy.

I bought these micrometer powder bars (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AM3ZBBC/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=ratio07-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B01AM3ZBBC&linkId=01778b7bdaf0a544761fe9255b1c15f0) for measuring out a charge instead of so much guess work and I find the install instructions fucking WOEFUL. Not happy with the manufacturer ignoring my email. That being said, I have verified via beam scale that their "Perfect Powder Baffle" does indeed prevent the powder change from changing as the power level goes down (even so, I still keep powder measures at least 1/3 full) and I strongly recommend these for all of your powder measures.

Dedicated powder measures/toolheads. FUCK YES. As fathers and husbands, our time is limited, spend the money.

After observing a shell filled with powder experience "hop" as the press rotated the shell plate and a few flakes of powder come out, I bought this from Level 10 Innovations (https://lvl10i.com/collections/dillon-upgrades/products/bearing-kit-w-modified-sprocket-for-dillon-550) and I recommend the equivalent for other Dillons. I believe it has nearly completely obviated that problem but one must still use smooth motions when reloading. The seasoned reloaders talk a lot about technique.

Military crimped brass is a motherfucker. I use my RCBS Special 5 single stage with an RCBS universal recapping die to get the primer out and then buzz the primer pocket with one of these (http://www.midwayusa.com/product/786428/k-and-m-primer-pocket-correction-tool?cm_mmc=se_service-_-shippingconf-_-shippingconf-_-ProductShippedTodayLink) chucked into my cordless drill. Seems to work, will let all know more after my next carbine class. I'd rather not spend too much money on this problem as I intend to simply buy a bunch of good brass in the future as I work through my range pickup brass stockpile. The easy solution if one must use military crimped brass and wants to reload a lot of it is to get a Dillon 1050 and a Dillon brass trimmer but really, just buy regular brass and don't dick with it.

Coated cast lead bullets work great for 9mm, not enough data on .300blk yet. I'll keep you updated. Go to round is the Leatherhead 125grRN bullet (http://leatherheadbullets.com/9-mm-125-grn-rn-500-ct/) in mixed brass, CCI primer, 1.125 COAL, 4.0gr of Titegroup.

Primer management upgrade (http://www.ebay.com/itm/231783630462) has been installed and it seems to work. Primers get fucking everywhere for a while when I reloaded despite the Dillon used primer cup, so I shunt this guy (http://www.uniquetek.com/product/T1346-550) to a 2 liter bottle with some cheap mineral oil in it in order to soak up the used primer dust. I needed these upgrades, no doubt about it.

My single stage press is something I'm glad to have, I recommend one for use. Get a heavy duty one for double duty on precision rifle if you get really into that and also for mass depriming.

Keep a labeling solution (labeler or even PostIt notes in your reloading room and use it often. I also recommend a whiteboard mounted near the reloading station.

I would love to find a digital scale that works well and doesn't break the bank. I believe I'll get one with a certified weight for calibration.

Harbor freight $4 plastic ammo cans rock. Little ammo boxes for organizing test loads are essential.

I believe that the reloading room should be lockable or at least all of the components should be locked up.

ranger
09-30-2016, 05:45 PM
I started off with LEE 1000s decades ago - but happily moved to the Dillon 550 and a Square Deal in 45. However, I still use the Lee dies AND the Lee Powder discs on the 550. Lots cheaper than buying Dillon dies and powder measure and lots easier than moving/recalibrating powder measures. For light on the 550, I use a simple desk light with an adjustable arm that I can direct plenty of light and I am RELIGIOUS about checking the case for powder as I set the projectile. I am a big fan of the overpriced "strong mount" - lucky to pick mine up used on eBay. Great writeup above.

mmc45414
10-01-2016, 09:16 AM
Last reloading session, I was going slowish and had to stop and fill a primer tube as well but still averaged 3.5 rounds a minute

However, my recently reconstructed (November 2015) shoulder gets pretty sore after a coupla hundred rounds (four pulls of the handle per round)

As much as I love my 550 I'd love to have an extra station for a powder check die that alerts me to double charges

Long/tall roller handle and tall mount are also essential. Dillon stock or Inline Fab

My single stage press is something I'm glad to have, I recommend one for use. Get a heavy duty one for double duty on precision rifle if you get really into that and also for mass depriming.

Just checking, but are you running a single case through the entire process one at a time? If so, are you doing this to lighten the load on your shoulder? I would suggest that all of the force is really in the sizing anyway. I recently did something to my left shoulder and it has been nagging me wile placing the bullets, but it seems to be healing.

Not really practical for 9mm, but for rifle I tend to make two passes through the 550. You could set up a toolhead with decap, and then size, so you can tumble to clean any lube, as well as do anything you want with the primer pockets. I am experimenting with a powder measure in the first station, this will require me to put a case in, and then prime on a down stroke before running it up to get charged. I am doing this to allow for a powder check die in the second station, then seat and then crimp. The potential drawback is all primer pockets will have to be clear, this may influence me to get a wet tumbler. Though I did just jump to a 650 so now I have a 650 and a 550 instead of the two 550s. I might end up decapping and sizing 5.56 on the 650 and then charging and seating on the 550, dunno.

I want the Inline Fab roller, my arm is just that much too short. I have the thing up at eye level and think any higher will be more fatiguing on my left arm and put the case feed bown up even closer to the floor joists.

Glad you are appreciating the single stage, I thought when you were trying to sell it you might have eventual wished you had it.

Greg
10-01-2016, 05:05 PM
Are you enjoying the reloading?

Some see it as a chore but I like it quite a bit. Except for case trimming.....

JCS
10-02-2016, 07:46 AM
Good post thanks for sharing.

I started reloading a few months ago. While I do enjoy it, I feel like I'm not efficient with my time. I have a turret press and have been doing it in batches. That slows me down and I'm really paranoid about a squib or double charge so I triple check everything and also check each case in a case gauge. I waste a lot of time but it gives me peace of mind. I'm hoping it gets faster.

Duelist
10-02-2016, 02:36 PM
Good post thanks for sharing.

I started reloading a few months ago. While I do enjoy it, I feel like I'm not efficient with my time. I have a turret press and have been doing it in batches. That slows me down and I'm really paranoid about a squib or double charge so I triple check everything and also check each case in a case gauge. I waste a lot of time but it gives me peace of mind. I'm hoping it gets faster.

I reload on a Redding T5 turret. A progressive would be faster, but this is still way faster than a single stage. Peace of mind is invaluable. Technique and practice and familiarity will bring your speed up.

LittleLebowski
10-02-2016, 04:47 PM
Just checking, but are you running a single case through the entire process one at a time? If so, are you doing this to lighten the load on your shoulder?

Nope, I'm just kinda slow :D I did get up to near 10 556 rounds a minute the other night though :cool:


Are you enjoying the reloading?

ABSOLUTELY. Love it. Definitely glad to have the single stage too, even though I'm still bending or breaking decapping pins.

mtnbkr
10-02-2016, 05:25 PM
though I'm still bending or breaking decapping pins.
How? I've been reloading for 18 years (though only rifle for the last 14) and have bent exactly one decapping pin. It was on an out-of-spec piece of brass with a too-small flash hole.

Chris

mmc45414
10-02-2016, 07:02 PM
Definitely glad to have the single stage too, even though I'm still bending or breaking decapping pins.

I like the Lee decapping die, it holds the pin in a collet so you can set it loose enough it can slip instead of breaking. $13 on Prime and extra pins are $4.

LittleLebowski
10-02-2016, 07:25 PM
How? I've been reloading for 18 years (though only rifle for the last 14) and have bent exactly one decapping pin. It was on an out-of-spec piece of brass with a too-small flash hole.

Chris

Military crimped .308 mainly.

miller_man
10-02-2016, 08:09 PM
Good read.

I reloaded for almost a year on a rcbs singe stage. Mostly figured out what to do, and how to mostly avoid screwing it up. Was not in a living arrangement that made it possible to reload for the last 2 years, but now in my own home can get set up to do so again.

I have completely decided if I get back into it, I'm going as automated as I can - thinking dillion 1050. I only care about loading 9mm for bulk shooting. Reading your post makes that even more evident for me.

Although, I really could just budget in buying ammo for the rest of my life and be completely content as well. More time for family, running a business and just shooting.

Shawn Dodson
10-03-2016, 11:08 PM
I quit using acro bins awhile ago. I replaced them with the Teerco Easy Sorter - http://www.harborfreight.com/easy-sorter-funnel-tray-37081.html

LittleLebowski
10-16-2016, 12:55 PM
These Dillon brand smaller lock rings (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0160BSA4A/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=ratio07-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B0160BSA4A&linkId=2adcdd618978a3b015061d7daea33828) are amazing. So much freaking easier to deal with when fine tuning dies! Of course, you need the Dillon tool set w/ holder (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00U0MXTMO/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=ratio07-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B00U0MXTMO&linkId=27a14b88a102fa62e9349a228bc07629) for the low profile wrench but trust me, this stuff will make your life easier.

LittleLebowski
10-16-2016, 12:55 PM
I quit using acro bins awhile ago. I replaced them with the Teerco Easy Sorter - http://www.harborfreight.com/easy-sorter-funnel-tray-37081.html

What do you like about these? The picture in the link does not tell me much.

olstyn
10-16-2016, 01:39 PM
These Dillon brand smaller lock rings (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0160BSA4A/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=ratio07-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B0160BSA4A&linkId=2adcdd618978a3b015061d7daea33828) are amazing. So much freaking easier to deal with when fine tuning dies! Of course, you need the Dillon tool set w/ holder (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00U0MXTMO/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=ratio07-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B00U0MXTMO&linkId=27a14b88a102fa62e9349a228bc07629) for the low profile wrench but trust me, this stuff will make your life easier.

Do those adjust the same way as the RCBS lock rings, with a hex set screw digging into the die's threads? If so, then they get a big "meh" from me. I wish every die I own had Hornady lock rings (https://www.amazon.com/Hornady-Sure-Lock-Ring-Pack/dp/B001OPTMU4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1476643084&sr=8-1&keywords=hornady+lock+rings); IMO they're roughly 6.2 million times nicer; instead of a solid piece all the way around, they have a gap which is bridged by a hex bolt. Tightening the bolt tensions the lock ring, holding it securely in place without damaging the die's threads.

LittleLebowski
10-16-2016, 01:56 PM
Do those adjust the same way as the RCBS lock rings, with a hex set screw digging into the die's threads? If so, then they get a big "meh" from me. I wish every die I own had Hornady lock rings (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001OPTMU4/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=ratio07-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B001OPTMU4&linkId=edf6b887c895b411fb586b98645832d2); IMO they're roughly 6.2 million times nicer; instead of a solid piece all the way around, they have a gap which is bridged by a hex bolt. Tightening the bolt tensions the lock ring, holding it securely in place without damaging the die's threads.

No hex set screw on the Dillons. I have never used the Hornadys.

Malamute
10-16-2016, 02:42 PM
Some of the RCBS lock rings used the split with allen screw clamp deal, they worked pretty well, but aren't the low profile like the Dillons.

Ive brought it up before, but one trick that saves frustration and time for me has been shallow baskets to hold brass and bullets when handling them. Easy to reach into and to toss done shells into, and if the basket is shaken sideways a little, the brass turns mouth up and is easy to pick up. When using the single stage and sizing or expanding I pick up 3-5 or 6 cases at a time. I find them handy with the Dillon for ingoing shells and for bullets, and dumping the acro bins into for boxing ammo or just looking it over. Thrift stores usually have them really cheap.

FPS
10-16-2016, 03:16 PM
I only have one hornady lock ring but that part you need to stick the allen wrench into always ends up in a place I cant get to it. I'm probably doing it wrong.

I like the Dillon lock rings but I have had it loosen on me a couple times with the Lee decap die. I'm probably doing it wrong. :)

Greg
10-16-2016, 03:32 PM
Do those adjust the same way as the RCBS lock rings, with a hex set screw digging into the die's threads? If so, then they get a big "meh" from me. I wish every die I own had Hornady lock rings (https://www.amazon.com/Hornady-Sure-Lock-Ring-Pack/dp/B001OPTMU4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1476643084&sr=8-1&keywords=hornady+lock+rings); IMO they're roughly 6.2 million times nicer; instead of a solid piece all the way around, they have a gap which is bridged by a hex bolt. Tightening the bolt tensions the lock ring, holding it securely in place without damaging the die's threads.

You young whipper snappers probably don't remember when Lyman and RCBS came with lock rings that were just as nice as Hornady.

Actually, I don't either, but looking at older dies on Ebay makes this clear.

With the crappy lock rings, a good trick is to put a few beads of lead shot between the brass allen bolt and the thread bodies.

olstyn
10-16-2016, 03:42 PM
You young whipper snappers probably don't remember when Lyman and RCBS came with lock rings that were just as nice as Hornady.

Indeed I don't. :) I've only been at this for ~5-6 years, and bought my RCBS 9mm and .380 dies then. It was only later, when I bought a Hornady Powder Cop to go with my then new LnL AP press, and it came with the nicer lock ring, that I learned the difference.


With the crappy lock rings, a good trick is to put a few beads of lead shot between the brass allen bolt and the thread bodies.

That does sound like it would work well; in the event that I need to adjust mine at some point, I'll keep that in mind after I get done fighting the rings past the marred up portions of the threads. :( All future calibers for me will be Hornady dies just for the nicer rings unless there's a compelling reason to go a different route.

Malamute
10-16-2016, 04:08 PM
I thought the newer RCBS lock rings with set screw had a bit of lead shot under the screw? My recent dies did I believe. Most are the older clamp type rings.

mmc45414
10-16-2016, 07:39 PM
These Dillon brand smaller lock rings (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0160BSA4A/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=ratio07-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B0160BSA4A&linkId=2adcdd618978a3b015061d7daea33828) are amazing. So much freaking easier to deal with when fine tuning dies! Of course, you need the Dillon tool set w/ holder (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00U0MXTMO/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=ratio07-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B00U0MXTMO&linkId=27a14b88a102fa62e9349a228bc07629) for the low profile wrench but trust me, this stuff will make your life easier.
They are great, if you can order from Dillon they are only $1.35 each.

I also just bought this wrench:
http://m.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-1-in-Combination-Standard-SAE-Wrench/3388704
Which was more, but the box end works very well on all stations but powder drop.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk

mmc45414
10-17-2016, 10:37 AM
You young whipper snappers probably don't remember when Lyman and RCBS came with lock rings that were just as nice as Hornady.
Actually, I don't either, but looking at older dies on Ebay makes this clear.
With the crappy lock rings, a good trick is to put a few beads of lead shot between the brass allen bolt and the thread bodies.

Also, consider all of those snazzy lock rings were for when you planned to save the setting when you unscrewed the die from the press. In Dillon's 550/650 scenario you are locking them into the tool head and they stay.

In the Hornady they are in those snazzy die bushings, and now that Slavex tipped me to the conversion for my Rock Chucker I am using the simple Dillon nuts there too. If pushed into it I saved my old larger Dillon nuts since there is plenty of room on the single stage.