Best "FIX" to disable S&W OEM revolver lock?

[Jim Bellino]

Just acquired a used but pristine 642 at a price to good to refuse.....it has the OEM lock. What is the most preferred way to disable it without butchering it? I will be using it in an ankle holster as backup to my G-23. I thought about just dropping a drop of super glue into the key hole but figured by now there has to be a solid accepted way to disable it without affecting performance reliability. Thanks in advance for any help you guys can provide......

[fatdog]

Grind the finger on the locking flag flat and it is gone, can no longer lock the hammer. Nothing else required, flag and lock can stay in place but they don't do anything anymore.

10445

[fatdog]

10446

[Dave J]

Might want to read what LSP972 had to say about that...

https://pistol-forum.com/showthread.php?14672-My-kingdom-for-a-modern-6-shot-38-snubbie-anyone-else/page4

[Dave J]

And I think Tom is right...my bad for reading the first response too fast on a phone with a screen that is way too small.

I guess I'll have to take myself to task during PFestivus....

[HopetonBrown]

A number of guys make a plug for the hole; don't have any experience with them but if you Google "S&W plug" they'll come up.

[SAWBONES]

IME, removing the whole apparatus and replacing it with "The Plug" gives a much nicer finished result; no chance of trigger restriction, and no ugly hole at all.

I did this with both of my old "no choice, only came with the lock" 340PDs, using the black Delrin "Plug", and the procedure was extremely easy.

I got mine from John at S&W Forum, who was the original maker of "The Plug" in either black or silver, but he retired due to illness.

Bullseye Smith has picked up the gauntlet for making "The Plug" (http://smith-wessonforum.com/138900552-post1.html) for those who might be interested.

It does seem pricey (and it is), but if you care about the appearance of the gun, it may be worth it for you.

[HopetonBrown]

Trying to find a link for The Plug I found some negative feedback for him, and this guy seemed more recommended. I have no experience with either seller.

http://smith-wessonforum.com/accessories-misc-sale-trade/374102-jmt-sight-pusher-1911-m-p-xd-ruger-beretta-revolver-plugs-mk-v-added.html


IME, removing the whole apparatus and replacing it with "The Plug" gives a much nicer finished result; no chance of trigger restriction, and no ugly hole at all.

I did this with both of my old "no choice, only came with the lock" 340PDs, using the black Delrin "Plug", and the procedure was extremely easy.

I got mine from John at S&W Forum, who was the original maker of "The Plug" in either black or silver, but he retired due to illness.

Bullseye Smith has picked up the gauntlet for making "The Plug" (http://smith-wessonforum.com/138900552-post1.html) for those who might be interested.

It does seem pricey (and it is), but if you care about the appearance of the gun, it may be worth it for you.

[Matt O]

Trying to find a link for The Plug I found some negative feedback for him, and this guy seemed more recommended. I have no experience with either seller.

http://smith-wessonforum.com/accessories-misc-sale-trade/374102-jmt-sight-pusher-1911-m-p-xd-ruger-beretta-revolver-plugs-mk-v-added.html

I picked up a model 57 for bear duty during hunting season and bought a plug from the JMT sight pusher gentleman to replace the lock. He was a pleasure to deal with and shipped promptly. I would do business with him again.


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[Jim Bellino]

And what would be the best way to knock out the lock without damaging the frame so the plug can be installed?

[fatdog]

And what would be the best way to knock out the lock without damaging the frame so the plug can be installed?

after you have removed internals including hammer, the flag can be removed easily, lift it out, and the lock is held in place by a tiny flat retaining plate that is the wishbone looking piece under spring tension (see the thing with the blue spring in original picture I posted), simply retract that and the lock falls out. You can install the plug and use this same retaining plate to hold it in place under spring tension, or use a tiny cotter pin that some of the plug makers ship with the plug to hold it in place and just dispense with the retainer plate and blue spring. I have done it both ways, both work.

10480

[fatdog]

One other thing I will observe about this particular lock system.

I believe several people. all of whom I consider credible, have experienced the "locking up" malfunction during firing some models of such equipped S&W revolvers, wherefore it is the first thing to "get fixed" on any modern S&W revolver I ever own that has it.

But after ditzing with this mechanism for a few years I am convinced it is not the locking cam getting "switched on" during firing that causes these incidents.

The flag itself is under very weak spring tension that holds it down in the unlocked state and operating normally that cam on the back side of the lock when moved by the key pushes the cam position upward and hence pushes the flag up into the locked position where the finger engages the hammer notch. But as I said, that spring tension holding flag down in the unlocked position is quite weak.

I am pretty sure that under recoil in certain angles and circumstances the flag overcomes that spring tension for an instant and engages the locking channel in the hammer as it passes when everything happens just right.

All of which to say, if you just replace the lock itself with a plug and do not grind down the locking finger, or completely remove the locking flag, I don't think you have done a thing to mitigate the risk. Not until that locking finger on the flag is completely gone from the gun, one way or the other, have you mitigated the risk of this very flawed design.

[Jim Bellino]

LSP972 says to be careful knocking out the circular locking mechanism that is press fit into the frame.....could someone please clarify this part of the operation for me before I perform major surgery on my 642.......FATDOG.....thxs for all the detailed explanation. I am anal about such things so this means a lot to me

[LSP972]

LSP972 says to be careful knocking out the circular locking mechanism that is press fit into the frame.....e

That is because it is held in the "frame side" (as opposed to the "plate side") of the revolver frame, and if you just slam-punch it out, you can warp the frame... which never ends well.

Just tap it out gently, using a small pin punch on the edges of the cylindrical mechanism. Of course, you want to have gutted the frame ahead of time and punch it from the OUTER frame side.

Once that is done, The Plug will slip right in perfectly.

..

[Jim Bellino]

That is because it is held in the "frame side" (as opposed to the "plate side") of the revolver frame, and if you just slam-punch it out, you can warp the frame... which never ends well.

Just tap it out gently, using a small pin punch on the edges of the cylindrical mechanism. Of course, you want to have gutted the frame ahead of time and punch it from the OUTER frame side.

Once that is done, The Plug will slip right in perfectly.

..

Thanks LSP972.....got all the info I need now. Only have to find a good reputable place to purchase the plug at.....anyone current on a source for the plug? What finish on the plug would best match the finish on my Al, frame 642?

[fatdog]

The last one I got was from Ed Jennings, sighttool@gmail.com

It was acceptable, I would choose his stainless version for a 642, when last I purchased, his price was $35 shipped, had to send a check since he did not take paypal or credit cards. There may be other makers now.

[TR675]

I wonder if any of the current plug makers would be interested in a wholesale deal... I'd love to carry them.

I would love to buy one from you.


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[Jim Bellino]

I'll try to reach out to those guys and see if there is any interest.

You guys are great!.....More info that I could have hoped for......Tom_Jones keep us up to date on what you find out....I would like to purchase a plug from you or some one else here who have gone above and beyond answering my questions.

[LSP552]

The last one I got was from Ed Jennings, sighttool@gmail.com

It was acceptable, I would choose his stainless version for a 642, when last I purchased, his price was $35 shipped, had to send a check since he did not take paypal or credit cards. There may be other makers now.

Jennings Machine and Tool
205-533-2033
Edjs47@charter.net

I ordered and installed a blue J-frame plug a few weeks ago. He takes PayPal now. Shipping was fast and the product first rate.

[Willard]

Sad commentary on S&W marketing team. They don't understand people will pay an additional $35 and likely more (since it would be factory and not a fix) to eliminate a "feature." Literally defies comprehension.

[Jim Bellino]

Jennings Machine and Tool
205-533-2033
Edjs47@charter.net

I ordered and installed a blue J-frame plug a few weeks ago. He takes PayPal now. Shipping was fast and the product first rate.

LSP552....thanks for the info......Jim

[Malamute]

Sad commentary on S&W marketing team. They don't understand people will pay an additional $35 and likely more (since it would be factory and not a fix) to eliminate a "feature." Literally defies comprehension.

I agree with the general sentiment expressed, but I believe there are certain model Js available without locks. I have no further information, somebody may be able to clarify.

[Wondering Beard]

I agree with the general sentiment expressed, but I believe there are certain model Js available without locks. I have no further information, somebody may be able to clarify.

Three models that I could find on the S&W site.

Model 642 (http://www.smith-wesson.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product4_750001_750051_766181_-1_757768_757767_757751_ProductDisplayErrorView_Y)
Model 442 (http://www.smith-wesson.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product4_750001_750051_766184_-1_757768_757767_757751_ProductDisplayErrorView_Y)
M&P 340 (http://www.smith-wesson.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product4_750001_750051_792048_-1_757768_757767_757751_ProductDisplayErrorView_Y)

[Sherman A. House DDS]

The 640 Pro comes from the factory sans lock.


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[Poconnor]

Any new info or sources for a plug? I have two blue smiths with the Hillary hole that I need to plug before all the soul leaks out.

[Wyoming Shooter]

I replaced the lock on a new 625 with a plug from Original Precision: https://www.originalprecision.com/lock-delete-parts.html. It was a relatively painless process. I found a couple videos on You Tube that helped. Best, ELN.