Beginner questions on the Sig P226

[That Guy]

I thought I'd gather a bunch of my n00bish questions in the same place... The specific variant that I'm planning on getting is a Mk25. (The paperwork is finally done, but while waiting for that the shop ran out of pistols. :P So, waiting for the next batch to arrive.)

On shooting:

Are the stock night sights designed for a "drive the dot" sight picture or for a "top edge of the front sight" sight picture?

On maintenance:

Change the recoil spring every 5000 rounds. Extractor spring after 20 000 rounds. Anything else?

What spare parts (aside from aforementioned springs) would be good to keep on hand? (Remembering that obtaining spare parts may be tricky and/or time consuming.) Does anything require special tools?

On modifications:

Some people in the greater internets claim that the short reset kit has a negative effect on the DA trigger pull. Seems to be a dubious claim, but I thought I'd check from the one place I can rely the facts from... :)

Holsters:

I seem to be incompatible with Safarilands web site. Somebody claimed they have a duty holster for an Mk25 with a TLR-1 light, but damned if I can find it on their web site... Does such a thing really exist?

Magazines:

Different kinds of magazines were already discussed in length in another thread: https://pistol-forum.com/showthread.php?20769-Sig-P226-9mm-magazines

[David S.]

SigForum. SIG Factory Spring and Factory Parts Replacement Schedule (http://sigforum.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/150601935/m/6801056451)

[Lon]

The only light/gun combo they show on their holster fit chart is the Mk25/SF 300/ultra:

8383

What I don't know is how much different the overall footprint between a Mk25 and a 226R is when you add a light.

[Lon]

Found this over on Sigtalk:

8384

Here:http://sigtalk.com/sig-sauer-pistols/12816-duty-holster-mk25-allows-gun-holstered-light-3.html

[BehindBlueI's]

Sight picture per Sig:


All SIG SAUER production duty/combat pistols are set up to use a "combat" sight picture. This is where the front sight completely covers the bulls eye of the target. Using a six o'clock ("pumpkin on a post") or center mass ("half'n'half") sight picture will result in low impact. SIG SAUER, Inc sights in all non-sporting and non-target pistols for 2.5 inch groupings @ 15 yards. If you are still having trouble please contact Customer Service for further help and instruction. Please have your serial number ready. There are also very helpful free Internet sites that cover pistol group analysis.

This jives with my experience with Sigs.

[QuickStrike]

Some people in the greater internets claim that the short reset kit has a negative effect on the DA trigger pull.

I hope not, just ordered one for my mk25.

[John Hearne]

My experience is that the SRT doesn't affect the DA pull but can make the SA a little creepier.

[LSP552]

My experience is that the SRT doesn't affect the DA pull but can make the SA a little creepier.

Interesting John. Small sample of a 226 and 228 (extra crappy DA) but the SRT improved the DA in both. It did actually add a bit of creep to the SA but I can't shoot the difference.

My 226R with GrayGun's reduced reset comprehensive duty package is as good as it gets.

[Surf]

I thought I'd gather a bunch of my n00bish questions in the same place... The specific variant that I'm planning on getting is a Mk25. (The paperwork is finally done, but while waiting for that the shop ran out of pistols. :P So, waiting for the next batch to arrive.)

On shooting:

Are the stock night sights designed for a "drive the dot" sight picture or for a "top edge of the front sight" sight picture?
Dot on dot sight picture.

On maintenance:
Not sure how much you plan on shooting this pistol, but your average shooter will have low maintenance needs for replacement of parts.

Change the recoil spring every 5000 rounds. Extractor spring after 20 000 rounds. Anything else?
Trigger bar spring is the most common spring issue, but having a set of springs is good.

What spare parts (aside from aforementioned springs) would be good to keep on hand? (Remembering that obtaining spare parts may be tricky and/or time consuming.) Does anything require special tools?
Besides knowing how to work on the pistol....In addition to a set of springs, barrel, Firing pin, hammer strut. If you look at the Sig Sauer armorer kit that is it. Punches, screwdriver and a hammer is all you really "need". You can grind a half punch if needed. I do use the Sig screwdriver tool quite a bit.

On modifications:

Some people in the greater internets claim that the short reset kit has a negative effect on the DA trigger pull. Seems to be a dubious claim, but I thought I'd check from the one place I can rely the facts from... :)
I prefer a SRT trigger.

[Odin Bravo One]

What Surf said.

EXCEPT about the SRT. I don't have any use for it as I slap the trigger. Not going to pay an extra C+ and do the installation for a feature that will not ever benefit me.

I'll grab the number off my holster tomorrow at work.

[Sero Sed Serio]

What Surf said.

EXCEPT about the SRT. I don't have any use for it as I slap the trigger. Not going to pay an extra C+ and do the installation for a feature that will not ever benefit me.

I'll grab the number off my holster tomorrow at work.

I'll second this--I have the SRT installed in a couple of my SIGs, but not in others. While it's nice, I shot my SRT and non-SRT 229s back-to-back last week, and didn't notice the difference while shooting. For someone who rides the reset, it would probably be more noticeable, but if you are a "flicker" as I've heard it termed, it won't make a huge difference.

Keep some extra grip screws around as they have been known to come loose and fall out--a dab of grease on the threads has been said to help with this. BE CAREFUL when tightening the grip screws, as it is VERY easy to strip the aluminum threads if you over-tighten the screws.

SIGs like to be run wet--grease is best, and lots of it.

Brownells has a SIG-specific field tool with most or all of what you need to take down the gun--this is a good investment, especially when removing and reinstalling the sear spring and mainspring housings.

[That Guy]

Thank you! You guys are awesome! :)

A new question on maintenance: are the consumable parts in the Sig parts replacement schedule all generic P226 parts? Ie. if the part says it's for a P226 it'll fit, no special Mk25 parts required?


Not sure how much you plan on shooting this pistol, but your average shooter will have low maintenance needs for replacement of parts.


At the current rate, only about 3k to 4k per year. And "low maintenance needs" sounds great. However, I have never owned a center-fired pistol where some part or other didn't break - so I'm trying to ensure I have my bases covered. Would be embarrassing if the most expensive handgun I ever bought was rendered unserviceable due to some small part breaking that I couldn't get a replacement for...



Keep some extra grip screws around as they have been known to come loose and fall out--a dab of grease on the threads has been said to help with this. BE CAREFUL when tightening the grip screws, as it is VERY easy to strip the aluminum threads if you over-tighten the screws.

So in other words, Lock-tite on the screw threads as soon as possible. Check.

[Hauptmann]

I'll second this--I have the SRT installed in a couple of my SIGs, but not in others. While it's nice, I shot my SRT and non-SRT 229s back-to-back last week, and didn't notice the difference while shooting. For someone who rides the reset, it would probably be more noticeable, but if you are a "flicker" as I've heard it termed, it won't make a huge difference.

That's something I've noticed over the years too. The real slow-down with the classic Sig is getting that first DA shot off quickly and accurately. I do not find any measurable shooting difference in speed between using SRT and the standard German engineered trigger design. If there is a speed difference for me, it is likely theoretical or pushing the shot timer in a controlled static range. I don't like using the SRT, because I've found that when I try to use a Sig without a SRT I have the potential to short stroke the non-SRT triggers. If the Sig I train with uses a standard trigger, their is no muscle memory that risks short stroking other DA/SA guns. Would the average CCW need that?......highly unlikely. For me though, I always have the remote scenario of having to use another officer's Sig under stress. Basically, if you have one SRT.....then all of your Sigs need to be SRT.

[Dcowboyscr]

Checkout Vibra Tite VC-3 for the grip screws and Slide Glide grease for the frame rails.

[Sero Sed Serio]

Checkout Vibra Tite VC-3 for the grip screws and Slide Glide grease for the frame rails.

I'll have to check the Vibra Tite out...I had heard you should stay away from LocTite because it makes it a little hard to get the grip panels off for cleaning/PM beyond field stripping, but this stuff might be a happy medium.

[M2CattleCo]

I use Vibra-Tite VC-3 on my Sig grip screws. It's the right stuff. Doesn't glue the threads to the frame, it just leaves a nylon-ish coating on the screw so they don't back out. BE CAREFUL getting the screws started. Aluminum is easy to strip.

I'm another SRT non-believer (trigger slapper).

[That Guy]

Do you guys have any thoughts on current production German made P226R's? I know the accessory rail is a little goofy, being rounded. But other than that, anything to be aware of?

[Sero Sed Serio]

Do you guys have any thoughts on current production German made P226R's? I know the accessory rail is a little goofy, being rounded. But other than that, anything to be aware of?

I prefer the MK25 to the current 226Rs because I prefer the short extractor to the newer long extractor, and they have the added benefit of a 1913 rail. Otherwise the current production guns seem to be good to go.

[M2CattleCo]

I like the MK25 rail too. The 226 Combat has it. I'm not scared of the long extractor at all.

Not sure where you are, but there's no German guns being imported right now. I've owned two all German P226Rs and two all German P229s, all in 9mm and I don't think any of my 6 or 7 US made take a backseat to the Germans in any way.