AR Handguards and Forends

[farscott]

I am literally overwhelmed by the number of choices available for handguards and forends for the AR. I only have experience with a few, including the standard two-piece, the Noveske 11.5" Switchblock rail, and the PRI Gen III round free-float. Of those, I like the PRI the best due to the free-float nature and how cool the tube stays during firing.

Here is what I think a rail should do in order of priority from highest to lowest.

1) Protect the gas block and gas tube from impact and not be dislodged due to usual rifle usage. This drives the minimum length. I do like the longer rails as they are more flexible for field-improvised rests as well as providing longer sight radii.
2) Provide grasping surfaces that are friendly to the bare hand.
3) Facilitate the dissipation of heat from the barrel without burning hands.
4) Allow the rifle to be shot from a rest without changing impact due to pressure on the barrel.
5) Provide means of attaching lights and sights.
6) Not be any heavier than needed. The corollary to this is that the rail not need covers to make it hand friendly.

So what rails and forends are people using? How do you decide?

[Gray222]

Geissele.

Accept no substitutes

[Jay Cunningham]

So what rails and forends are people using? How do you decide?

What is the purpose of the gun it's going on? What do I need the rail to do to support the mission of the gun? How much am I willing to spend?

[farscott]

What is the purpose of the gun it's going on? What do I need the rail to do to support the mission of the gun? How much am I willing to spend?

Good questions that should drive the process, but even those do not reduce the solution space to a few choices. I think there are more questions to be asked and answered to make an informed decision.

For the sake of this exercise, let's assume the gun is a general-purpose AR, used for training classes, informal plinking, and HD. All shots are well under 200 yards. The rifle needs to wear an Aimpoint, a sling, a set of BUIS, and a light. Budget is not an issue.

There are a ton of choices out there, and I do not see an objective way to make an informed decision.

[ASH556]

From an armorer's perspective, I pay attention to install requirements, accessory attachment methods, and security after installation. There are several rails/forends that I will not use or recommend because they have inherent design flaws. For Instance, the pre-G3 MI handguards only pinched the barrel nut and were prone to simply sliding off the front. YHM's threaded jam-nut design will rotate.

I prefer handguards that do not require the barrel nut to be indexed as too often, torque issues are encountered. Thus, anything that uses a GI barrel nut (Troy/Vtac, Centurion non-CMR) or the Noveske NSR.

The KMR is nice and light, but in my opinion more fragile than I'd like on a fighting gun. Then again, I like MLOK over Keymod because I feel like Keymod is too easy to screw up. Hard to know if it's the KMR's fault or the Keymod's fault, but either way, you see a lot of screw-ups with that combo.

Bottom line based on the criteria above, Geissele Mlok or Daniel Defense for Picatinny Quad-type. If you want to run it slick, then an ALG EMR or the Centurion CMR are excellent.

[SamuelBLong]

I will also tell you to go with geissele. They are very comfortable in hand, and they are the most sturdy rail out there.

I'm in the process of changing out all my guns to use geissele rails because of the stability.

I've used the KMR, DD's Slim Rail, DD Quad Rails, and various others.

Geissele has them all beat when it comes to eliminating rail / handguard flex. This is especially important as I'm using PEQ-15's and DBAL's, but it equally applies to running an iron sight way out at the end of a 13-15" rail.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Calvin118]

I have used the Geissele Mk 4/8, Daniel Defense and Centurion Quad rails, Noveske NSR, Troy Alpha, KMR, and others. What is "best" depends on your goals.

I have a couple KMR's on builds which are meant to be light weight, use an Aimpoint as a primary sight, and only have a pistol light mounted at 12:00. I do not use VFG's and the keymod holes are only used for a QD sling attachment and heat panels. The weight savings is noticeable.

An Aimpoint Micro in a quality mount is quite durable and will hold zero through a significant amount of abuse. I have some on range guns that are still going strong on the original battery after six years, and the shelf life of lithium-ion spare batteries is 12-15 years. I have accidentally dropped a H1 onto concrete hard enough where the tabs on top of the adjustment cap were completely crushed and the threads were deformed and zero did not move. Larry Vickers did a lot worse things to one during the DD test and that Aimpoint held zero as well.

On these guns the BUIS are there in the unlikely event that the sight goes down. Given the durability of the sight and the ease of changing batteries (or swapping a new Aimpoint) I would not expect to have to use them for very long. I use Magpul Pro BUIS on my KMR's and they hold zero fine through everyday bumps and drops. Granted, if you run a KMR over with a large truck at high speed or use it to pound railroad spikes you will probably put a dent in it. As long as your gas block is appropriately attached the 12:00 Picatinny rail would probably not deform enough where you would be unable to readjust to zero based upon your Aimpoint. Hopefully this would not happen often.

Some people have been concerned about the flex in the KMR. The KMR definitely does flex. If I cowitness BUIS through the Aimpoint and pull horizontally as hard as I can, I can easily move the front sight post completely off the Aimpoint dot. During normal firing positions (including with a sling and prone) applying normal amounts of pressure, however, this is not an issue and the co-witness does not change at all. At least that is my experience. I have also attached an ATPIAL-C to a KMR hunt hogs at night, zero'd it by matching the visible laser to the Aimpoint at 50 yards, and everything worked quite well. Can I move the laser if I apply full gorilla horizontal force? Sure. But again, it does not seem to be an issue with ordinary firing.

That said, the Geissele is extremely sturdy. I cannot change the co-witness at all even with my greatest horizontal force, and I imagine that folded Magpul Pro BUIS would hold zero quite well even if it was run over by a truck. If I was in a situation where I might have to depend upon my BUIS for long periods of time without a co-witness cross-check, or maintaining the zero on an IR laser over a prolonged period was a matter of life and death, then the Geissele would be my choice.

The NSR is somewhere in the middle. It is heavier (11oz total for 13") but definitely flexes less than the KMR. The long barrel nut may have a lot to do with this.

[SLG]

Based on your initial list, there are many good choices.

How do you want to attach the sling? Where and how do you want to attach the light? What does "hand friendly" mean? No gloves, or just minimal sharp edges?

Depending on those answers, I might recommend the G3 MI that I am currently trying out. Or the Geissele. Or the KMR. Or the Centurian (heavyish). Or the ALG.

You like the PRI. Why not that one?

[CoGT3]

Check out slrrifleworks. Multiple lengths, KMR/Mlok, multiple different profiles from heavier to lighter.

[farscott]

Based on your initial list, there are many good choices.

How do you want to attach the sling? Where and how do you want to attach the light? What does "hand friendly" mean? No gloves, or just minimal sharp edges?

Depending on those answers, I might recommend the G3 MI that I am currently trying out. Or the Geissele. Or the KMR. Or the Centurian (heavyish). Or the ALG.

You like the PRI. Why not that one?

Gonna answer a lot of posts using the quoted post because it asks a lot of good questions. I also appreciate the input from others, especially on the Geissele and KMR. My personal gut thought is I want nothing to do with the KMR based on issues with mounting, the weight when fabricated from Al 6061-T6, how it looks to feel in the hand (may be wrong as I have no experience), and the comments above.

For me, hand-friendly means no gloves, I can not tear up my hands sliding them on the rail, and I do not have to worry about burning my hands. The 15" version of the PRI forend is definitely being considered based on my experience with the rifle-length version so far. I really like how it feels in the hand, and that I can add rails only where I want rails. That way weight can be controlled while the forend is still very resistant to deflection and exhibits minimal heat rise. Right now, the rifle with the PRI has no iron sights, so not sure how the forend works with iron sights. I love how light the complete rifle is with the PRI forend without any rails.

I really do not have enough AR experience to express a preference on sling mounts. I am still experimenting with the sling on the PRI forend.

I want the light to be mounted on the right side of the forend as I shoot the rifle off my left shoulder as I am left-eye dominant. That may change as I shoot the rifle and learn what works and what does not.

[Gray222]

just in case you want to hate me more

https://geissele.com/?utm_medium=email&sslid=Mzc2MjIyNjY3NbYEAA&sseid=szA0NjI1MLUEAA&jobid=704bebbb-92ca-4ce4-b812-99c05d267692

[rob_s]

[QUOTE=farscott;447484
2) Provide grasping surfaces that are friendly to the bare hand.
3) Facilitate the dissipation of heat from the barrel without burning hands.
6) Not be any heavier than needed. The corollary to this is that the rail not need covers to make it hand friendly.
[/QUOTE]

I may have sissy office-bitch hands, but these three things are contradictory for me, and a big part of the reason I still prefer Picatinny. Picannty handguards with Larue Index Clips are the least-hot handguards I've ever used on an AR.

[farscott]

just in case you want to hate me more

https://geissele.com/?utm_medium=email&sslid=Mzc2MjIyNjY3NbYEAA&sseid=szA0NjI1MLUEAA&jobid=704bebbb-92ca-4ce4-b812-99c05d267692

That is both awesome and depressing. While firearms and accessories are one class of goods that make sense in terms of what Memorial Day means, I really struggle with the concept of a day to remember those who fell in service of our country turning into another marketing ploy. That is now how we choose to observe that day.

We have the stuff for decoration day for the cemetery. That needs to done before Monday. Looks like Friday afternoon.

[BWT]

I like my VTAC Rail on my Midlength rifle.

However, I agree with rob_s' regarding handguards. I like Magpul MOE handguards on my SBR; I don't know that I'll invest in another rail for the foreseeable future.

That being said, if I was looking at a rail these days; I would look at what I consider the better equivalent to the VTAC.

ALG Defense's M-LOK v 3.

http://algdefense.com/ergonomic-modular-rail-emr-v3-m-lok.html

Price is right at about about $145-$160. The ergonomics are similar to the VTAC, takes advantage of MLOK which seems to be the better alternative (from what I can discern as an amateur) than the KMR, and has integrated QD mounts. It has a longer barrel nut and which seems to be designed with accuracy in mind (which is ironically also present on the PSG1, the Army's new HK CSASS Rifle, and HK's MS90), and Bill goes into detail in the below interview.

13:38-17:21 in the following interview by Geissele.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5HSEWVEdaVY

4:40-4:50 in the following documentary on the HK PSG1 regarding the extended trunion.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uzsoHeOgySA

1:36-1:48 in the following documentary on the HK MSG90 regarding the extended trunion.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9GDbB3jugO4

Also, in this article if you pay close attention to the extended trunion in the newly adopted HK CSASS.

http://www.armytimes.com/story/military/2016/04/08/hk-confirms-armys-new-and-improved-sniper-rifle/82788202/

It seems to me that there is some substance to indicate that the more significant barrel nuts (longer version present in both ALG and Geissele rails) or trunions do help promote rigidity and accuracy throughout the gun and the rail; this to me leads to the conclusion that replacing the barrel nut may improve accuracy.

I'd give a hard look at that rail or the Geissele rails; it does seem that the barrel nut designs are (ETA: adding a few words for clarity) different externally but I'd imagine that internally that the ALG (being the same company) barrel nut probably has similar internal dimensions to the Geissele barrel nut.

That's my take on it. Might also grab one of the new MLOK MOE handguards; put in a QD cup in one of the slots, one of their light mounts in the handguard, and call it a day.

God Bless,

Brandon

ETA: I seemed to mess up every single link by placing them in the wrong area among the text. I updated the links so that they're in the correct place.

[farscott]

Came to a decision. Going to go with one 15" Geissele MK4 and one 15" PRI. Try them both on separate uppers and see which I like more.

[StraitR]

Sounds like a solid plan.

I currently have two KMR's (one original/one Alpha) and an URX4. I like them all, but if doing it over today I'd get all Geissele rails.

[Casey]

I currently have two KMR's (one original/one Alpha) and an URX4. I like them all, but if doing it over today I'd get all Geissele rails.
I'm in a similar boat. My first two rifles are BCM KMR 13s with ELW-F barrels. They handle great despite being so lightweight, and carrying them around during a three-day class isn't nearly as fatiguing as would be carting around something set up with a more substantial handguard. That said, my third rifle has an ALG EMR v2, and the next couple guns I set up will most likely get ALG or Geissele handguards. Watching Bill's videos gives me a whole lot of confidence in the amount of engineering that goes into his products, and a slight weight penalty for something that is objectively more rigid and durable is a penalty I'm willing to pay. (Those next two rifles will be my last, and they'll be dedicated HD weapons; the KMR-equipped guns will be relegated to training use.)

[Default.mp3]

I currently have two KMR's (one original/one Alpha) and an URX4. I like them all, but if doing it over today I'd get all Geissele rails.Any reason you'd choose a Geissele over a URX4?

[StraitR]

Any reason you'd choose a Geissele over a URX4?

My URX4 is on a factory SR-15, so I didn't really have a rail choice. The URX4 has an integrated barrel nut, so the whole rail/barrel nut screws off as one piece. But, the gas block must be removed first. Well, the Mod 2 gas system uses a gas block that is held on by a castle nut rather than set screws or taper pins. To the best of my knowledge, and google fu, KAC does not sell the wrench that slides over the barrel to remove the GB castle nut from under the URX4. So as it stands, I can't take the rifle apart.

I don't have an immediate need to take it apart, but I've wrenched my own AR's for 15 years, so I'd rather be able to. If I swap the URX4 out for a Geissele Mk8, I could remove the rail without removing the GB, then fabricate a spanner wrench for removing the GB castle nut. So it's not that I prefer the Geissele rail to the URX4, I just don't like that I can't disassemble the gun due to the URX4 design. I just happen to like the Mk8 better than others that would accomplish the same thing.

That's the only reason. Other than that, I like it just fine. Well, one other beef, the URX4 extrusion seems to be thicker than others and not every KM accessory will fit. I know the two BCM keymod QD swivels I have will not install on my URX4. I haven't tried any from Arisaka or others, I've just bought KAC KM accessories to this point.

[23JAZ]

just in case you want to hate me more

https://geissele.com/?utm_medium=email&sslid=Mzc2MjIyNjY3NbYEAA&sseid=szA0NjI1MLUEAA&jobid=704bebbb-92ca-4ce4-b812-99c05d267692
You are such a dick! That being said does the OP want to buy a lightly used MI GEN 2 SS 12" Handguard?

[JSGlock34]

I've played around with different hand guards over the years - picatinny, Keymod and now MLOK. I had really liked the original Troy VTAC rail, but hated the rail attachments. More recently I added a URX4 MLOK to my SR15E3 - and I'm impressed. It reminds me very much of the low profile and lightweight of the VTAC rail - but with far better accessory options.

[farscott]

You are such a dick! That being said does the OP want to buy a lightly used MI GEN 2 SS 12" Handguard?

Thank you for the offer, but I am sticking with the Geissele and PRI handguards.

[GJM]

What is the difference between the MK4 and MK8 rails?

[farscott]

What is the difference between the MK4 and MK8 rails?

The MK4 has short 1913 Picatinny sections at the end of the rail at 3, 6, and 9 o'clock positions. The MK8 does not the 1913 sections.

[314159]

At the risk of topic drift... Just how compatible are any of these with an Armalite AR-10 upper? I'd like to build a light weight AR-10 with a nice rail.

[GJM]

Most of my AR uppers are now wearing 13 and 15 inch BCM key of rails. They are a mix of BCM mid-length and 6920/6720carbine length uppers.

I have two or three 6920 uppers around, that are still wearing DD 7 inch rails from five or more years ago. I would like a longer rail, but keeping the integrity of the Colt uppers. Would they be good candidates to rail with 13 or 15 inch MK8 uppers? Would the FSB just need to be cut, or do you do things differently with the MK8 (I see they include a gas block)?

[ASH556]

Most of my AR uppers are now wearing 13 and 15 inch BCM key of rails. They are a mix of BCM mid-length and 6920/6720carbine length uppers.

I have two or three 6920 uppers around, that are still wearing DD 7 inch rails from five or more years ago. I would like a longer rail, but keeping the integrity of the Colt uppers. Would they be good candidates to rail with 13 or 15 inch MK8 uppers? Would the FSB just need to be cut, or do you do things differently with the MK8 (I see they include a gas block)?

I chopped the FSB on the Colt I just built with a Mk8. I prefer the security of a double taper-pinned gas block over anything else.

[That Guy]

What sort of free float hand guards are good options for a Colt M4? The idea would be to keep the fixed front sight. Light weight would be preferable, but durability is a desirable feature as well. :p Not looking for a rail farm, the idea is just to have a basic rifle with sling, light, at some point in the future some sort of optic.

The free float is not a high priority upgrade at this time, just looking at what's available and trying to get some sort of a handle on how much this would cost.

[rob_s]

What sort of free float hand guards are good options for a Colt M4? The idea would be to keep the fixed front sight. Light weight would be preferable, but durability is a desirable feature as well. :p Not looking for a rail farm, the idea is just to have a basic rifle with sling, light, at some point in the future some sort of optic.

The free float is not a high priority upgrade at this time, just looking at what's available and trying to get some sort of a handle on how much this would cost.

If you want to keep the FSB, and don't want to to Picatinny, I wouldn't bother, frankly. You'll be stuck with either handguards that are 7" long (pointless) or handguards with an FSB cutout (not a good idea either, and relative,y uncommon).

[ASH556]

If you want to keep the FSB, and don't want to to Picatinny, I wouldn't bother, frankly. You'll be stuck with either handguards that are 7" long (pointless) or handguards with an FSB cutout (not a good idea either, and relative,y uncommon).

Rob, curious why you say the FSB cutout is a bad idea.

[GJM]

I chopped the FSB on the Colt I just built with a Mk8. I prefer the security of a double taper-pinned gas block over anything else.

Do you remove the FSB, chop it down and replace it, or trim it on the barrel? My shop says they remove, trim, and reinstall, and I wonder if that is normal practice.

[SLG]

Do you remove the FSB, chop it down and replace it, or trim it on the barrel? My shop says they remove, trim, and reinstall, and I wonder if that is normal practice.

Yes, it's normal and needed.

[farscott]

What is the benefit of cutting down the FSB versus replacing it with a new low-profile gas block? It is cost? I would assume keeping the original FSB as-is would allow for any mods to be undone or for the parts to used on another rifle. What am I missing?

[Dave J]

What is the benefit of cutting down the FSB versus replacing it with a new low-profile gas block? It is cost? I would assume keeping the original FSB as-is would allow for any mods to be undone or for the parts to used on another rifle. What am I missing?

The two taper pins on a cut down FSB are much more secure than a typical lo-pro gas block held only by set screws.

You can have a low-pro block drilled and pinned, of course, but that is additional cost and hassle.

[ASH556]

Do you remove the FSB, chop it down and replace it, or trim it on the barrel? My shop says they remove, trim, and reinstall, and I wonder if that is normal practice.


Yes, it's normal and needed.

Yes, this.

[ASH556]

What is the benefit of cutting down the FSB versus replacing it with a new low-profile gas block? It is cost? I would assume keeping the original FSB as-is would allow for any mods to be undone or for the parts to used on another rifle. What am I missing?

The taper pins are drilled and reamed specific to each barrel so they won't line up if you try to put the FSB on another barrel. As for changing back to FSB config. I suppose that's a valid thought so long as you only had one AR or somehow marked them to match the barrels they came off of.

Regarding other low pro gas blocks, that's something even industry SME's disagree on. Some say dimples and set screws are enough. Personally I prefer pinning and own and use a jig made by BRDE for pinning aftermarket low pro gas blocks because not everyone buys barrels with FSB's.

[Appalachained]

I chopped the FSB on the Colt I just built with a Mk8. I prefer the security of a double taper-pinned gas block over anything else.

I just bought a Colt upper with a 14.5" barrel and plan on doing the same. I was just gonna chop it while on the barrel. Any reason you took it off chopped it and put it back on? Or any reason I shouldn't chop it while still attached to the barrel?

[ASH556]

I just bought a Colt upper with a 14.5" barrel and plan on doing the same. I was just gonna chop it while on the barrel. Any reason you took it off chopped it and put it back on? Or any reason I shouldn't chop it while still attached to the barrel?

In my case the handguard uses a proprietary barrel nut, so I have to remove the FSB to install the barrel nut anyway. I suppose you could cut one while on the barrel but you run a super huge risk of damaging the barrel. FSB's are hard steel. I start with a hacksaw to cut off the A-Frame, bayonet lug, and sling swivel. Next I do coarse shaping with a bench grinder and final shaping/smoothing with a sanding wheel on a Dremel. Finish with cold blue and a couple coats of high temp paint with heat cure between coats.

This one went under a KMR:

http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/ab104/ASH556/F8334576-566D-4912-8F88-B821AC0C2511.jpg (http://s854.photobucket.com/user/ASH556/media/F8334576-566D-4912-8F88-B821AC0C2511.jpg.html)

[rob_s]

Rob, curious why you say the FSB cutout is a bad idea.

A couple of reasons...
1) there aren't a lot of options in this market. Even some that used to make them (Centurion, Daniel Defense) either aren't making them anymore or are hard to find. and the options are even fewer with KEYLOK systems.
2) the FSB gets hot. people forget that. Then they put a rail on the gun where everything else stays cool(er), and wind up touching the FSB with their thumb. Especially so if you go for the 12 o'clock X300, although I hear that's not the fashion anymore so I'm sure less people are doing it now.
3) I like fold-down sights. I believe the BCM Diamondheads offer all of of the benefits of the stock sights with the added benefit of folding out of the way, both for snagging and for field of view. The one, possible, downside is that a front sight mounted to a long(er) handguard could flex with the handguard instead of the barrel, and therefore not be as accurate. If I was actually looking for a dedicated-irons, free-floated, AR then I'd use an FSB-cutout rail, or preferably a Dissipator-style.

[ASH556]

That makes sense, thanks. I still dig the X300 @ 12 on an RDS carbine. For mag optics I do like the light offset. I get the thing about burning thumbs and that's my biggest concern. As far as availability, I've strongly considered a custom chopped ALG EMR or Centurion CMR for an 11.5" with a DD fixed rear and an Aimpoint. Should be relatively bombproof.

[LOKNLOD]

Are there any viable foreends that attach to the standard AR barrel nut?

With the availability of some of the "OEM" style carbines, the thought of tossing one on without having to disassemble and reinstall the barrel would be "nice".

[TR675]

FBI uses the Troy Alpha IIRC. I've got one on an SBR. It just slips over the barrel nut and then you tighten it down.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[rob_s]

Are there any viable foreends that attach to the standard AR barrel nut?

With the availability of some of the "OEM" style carbines, the thought of tossing one on without having to disassemble and reinstall the barrel would be "nice".

I've strongly considered a 6920 OEM2 and one of these
https://troyind.com/products/m-lok-556-aluminum-13-blk

[LOKNLOD]

I've strongly considered a 6920 OEM2 and one of these
https://troyind.com/products/m-lok-556-aluminum-13-blk

There was a sale of those on Midway or somewhere a while back and I almost grabbed it "for later".

[John Hearne]

I've strongly considered a 6920 OEM2 and one of these
https://troyind.com/products/m-lok-556-aluminum-13-blk

Sorry to drift the thread but...
Supposed I've had a 13" Troy VTAC for years. Would upgrading to M-LOK be a matter of a quick swap of the tube?

[LOKNLOD]

Sorry to drift the thread but...
Supposed I've had a 13" Troy VTAC for years. Would upgrading to M-LOK be a matter of a quick swap of the tube?

I *think* the VTAC/Troy was of the "Trx extreme" generation of rails, and they used a proprietary barrel nut.

[Whiskey_Bravo]

Are there any viable foreends that attach to the standard AR barrel nut?

With the availability of some of the "OEM" style carbines, the thought of tossing one on without having to disassemble and reinstall the barrel would be "nice".

Centurion Arms C4 Rail in a length of your choosing.

[rob_s]

Sorry to drift the thread but...
Supposed I've had a 13" Troy VTAC for years. Would upgrading to M-LOK be a matter of a quick swap of the tube?


I *think* the VTAC/Troy was of the "Trx extreme" generation of rails, and they used a proprietary barrel nut.

I also think this is correct. Troy originally wanted the handguard to attach to the stock nut, then couldn't get it to work, then could. So if your current handguard is attached to a stock barrel nut then you should be good to go, but if it's attached to the proprietary nut then you can't swap to the MLOK. I'm pretty sure the VTAC versions are all proprietary nuts.

[Dave J]

Troy VTAC Alpha uses a standard barrel nut, or at least the one I have from 2012 or so does. Not sure if other versions exist.

[LOKNLOD]

Troy VTAC Alpha uses a standard barrel nut, or at least the one I have from 2012 or so does. Not sure if other versions exist.

I think the Alpha designator is the key. The Alphas came after the TRX extreme. The Trx's had some issues with bad fit causing them to have a bad cant that made the front of the rail noticeably higher than the receiver (made zeroing a rail mounted front site impossible in my example).

[Appalachained]

Anyone have experience with the ALG EMR rails?

[Surf]

Are there any viable foreends that attach to the standard AR barrel nut?

With the availability of some of the "OEM" style carbines, the thought of tossing one on without having to disassemble and reinstall the barrel would be "nice".

Check out Samson Mfg rails. We were putting on the 7" Evo EX rails on 10.5" barrels with a fixed FSP. We wanted a tube rail that extended past the FSB. They worked and held up well. The quads are 2 piece with stock nut also.

[littlejerry]

I purchased an ALG EMR for my first FF handguard.. The design is well thought out and very easy to install without a torque wrench.

I have the slick MLok version and ended up adding a short section of rail for BUIS. Ultimately that'll go away when I install an offset RDS.

The MLOk allows me to mount a QD mount pretty much anywhere.

For $120 I have a hard time understanding what a $300 handguard does better. Perhaps extreme durability? In my hobbyist/competitor use case I can't come up with a compelling reason to spend more money on a competing product.

[JM Campbell]

Centurion Arms C4 Rail in a length of your choosing.
Light weight for a full rail with a fsb cut out. I have equipped my factory magpul 6920 with one. Extremely pleased with it.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk

[JM Campbell]

I purchased an ALG EMR for my first FF handguard.. The design is well thought out and very easy to install without a torque wrench.

I have the slick MLok version and ended up adding a short section of rail for BUIS. Ultimately that'll go away when I install an offset RDS.

The MLOk allows me to mount a QD mount pretty much anywhere.

For $120 I have a hard time understanding what a $300 handguard does better. Perhaps extreme durability? In my hobbyist/competitor use case I can't come up with a compelling reason to spend more money on a competing product.
I have the ALG 8" keymod V1 rail on a 9.5" 300blk upper I built, it is nice and super easy install with out a torque wrench. If the V2 was available at the time I would have bought it because of the integrated 1913 fsb mouth vs the bolt on 1913 rail.



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[Casey]

Anyone have experience with the ALG EMR rails?
I had an EMR v2 12" handguard installed on a BCM upper I put together recently as a psuedo-budget carbine. I like it. Reasonably lightweight, very affordable, and the inclusion of QD sockets saves me from spending another ~$20 to add a sling attachment. I appreciate the theoretical increase in rigidity that comes from the extended barrel nut, not that I'm using a laser that would benefit from it. My only complaint is more MLOK related, in that I much prefer the BCM KeyMod rail covers to the two MLOK cover types available from Magpul, but that's a minor gripe, and I'm ok with keeping the EMR slick for now.

I have a pair of rifles set up with BCM KMR-13s, and I love how crazy light they are. But when one considers that the KMR-A is all that's really available these days, and the negligible weight difference between a KMR-A and an ALG or Geissele of similar length, plus the arguable superiority of the MLOK system, I'd be hard pressed to choose a KMR over an ALG/Geissele handguard today (in fact, I picked up an SMR Mk8 over Memorial Day weekend to set aside for a future project).